Yepper, off on another journey. My plan is to get the buildings in place for Tahope and then begin the painting process.
My next build will be Magnuson's Merchant's Row II.
I bought this one about a month after I got MR I.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310325163119-549172440.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310325163120-54918980.jpeg)
The walls in this one are more sticky than the other kit. And, the two long walls are more warped.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310325163120-549191595.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-310325163120-54920719.jpeg)
Done for today.
I look forward to seeing all the construction in Tahope.
I bashed this one last year (the Walthers styrene version) back on Railroad-Line.com. So I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with yours.
dave
It's hard keeping up with you!!
Now I have to remember which one to post to!! :)
Jerry
Tom, I admire your ambition.
Do you ever sleep???
terry
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 31, 2025, 05:01:15 PMI look forward to seeing all the construction in Tahope.
Curt,
Lots going on in Tahope.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on March 31, 2025, 05:26:43 PMI bashed this one last year (the Walthers styrene version) back on Railroad-Line.com. So I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with yours.
dave
Dave,
Thanks for following along. I'm not sure I'll change this kit much other than a lot of signs and roof top details
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on March 31, 2025, 06:44:42 PMIt's hard keeping up with you!!
Now I have to remember which one to post to!! :)
Jerry
Jerry,
My building seems to come in bunches like bananas. Lots today and none tomorrow. 8)
Tom
Quote from: Rick on March 31, 2025, 07:16:06 PMTom, I admire your ambition.
Rick,
Thanks, I have an empire to build.
Tom
Hi Tom, your giving me modeling whiplash with all that you have going on now.
I built this one a long time ago as well, if memory serves me didn't the turret come as metal castings?
I did not see them or the roof for it in your photos of the kit's contents.
Best of luck with this one!
Greg
Quote from: Ensign on April 01, 2025, 11:58:27 AMHi Tom, your giving me modeling whiplash with all that you have going on now.
I built this one a long time ago as well, if memory serves me didn't the turret come as metal castings?
I did not see them or the roof for it in your photos of the kit's contents.
Best of luck with this one!
Greg
Greg,
My builds seem to come in bunches like bananas. All here and then none. 8)
Yes, the turret does have the metal castings. I just left them out of the photos.
Probably won't get back to this one until Thursday. To many 1:1 stuff to do, Spring has sprung here ins Central Fl.
Tom
In the later Walthers version, the turret is also molded in Styrene. It takes some work to get a good fit. Now I changed the angle of the bays a bit, but even with a 'stock' layout, some crack filling would be necessary.
IMG_9804.jpg
I cut floor shapes and used that and styrene strip to add strength.
IMG_9808.jpg
And here's the result, used as a 3d flat.
IMG_9816 (1).jpg
And my approach to sidewalks and cobblestone streets..
IMG_0036.jpg
dave
I'll be looking in on this one, neat looking building..... :)
OK Tom, you need to slow down a bit and let the rest of up catch up. :o
This should be another interesting build with the turret involved.
Dave,
Very nice kitbash, you wouldn't have known the amount of putty involved in the finished product.
Quote from: deemery on April 01, 2025, 05:25:49 PMIn the later Walthers version, the turret is also molded in Styrene. It takes some work to get a good fit. Now I changed the angle of the bays a bit, but even with a 'stock' layout, some crack filling would be necessary.
dave
Dave,
AH yes, I remember these from RR Lines. Very good kit bashed.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on April 02, 2025, 08:10:14 PMOK Tom, you need to slow down a bit and let the rest of up catch up. :o
This should be another interesting build with the turret involved.
Ron,
I did slow down the last couple of days for 1:1 stuff but I'm back on track now.
Tom
Merchant's Row II was not like MR I. This kit's walls were very very sticky. When I started to remove the flash from the windows, the flash stuck to the walls. I got the larger parts removed and used the box lid to catch the flash.
What wasn't in the box lid, was either on my lap or on the floor.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030425162051-549252045.jpeg)
I decided to remove the sticky prior to doing any final and fine filing of the openings.
I used all my Simple Green on the first kit so I thought I'd try and use 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. I poured some in a square tin I use for baking brass locos.
You can see the darker yellow on the walls. This is the sticky crap coming off. Once I soaked all the parts for about 30 minutes, I rinsed them in warm water and padded them dry with an old soft bath towel.
Perfect, no more sticky crap on the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030425162051-54926417.jpeg)
Now I can start the assembly of the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030425162051-54927413.jpeg)
Done for today.
Depending on your era, you can back-date this a bit by adding a vertical piece (styrene strip) to divide the large storefront windows.
dave
Howdy Tom,
The cleanup looks good. I'm looking forward to another great build.
Have fun,
mike
Tom,
Great job on the cleanup and flash removal. I think if it was me, I would have removed the sticky stuff first before removing the flash. Now the question everyone wants the answer to.... will brass tubing be required to straighten the walls. ;D
Looks clean from here. :) Now to see the good part you putting this together!!
Jerry
Quote from: deemery on April 03, 2025, 04:56:57 PMDepending on your era, you can back-date this a bit by adding a vertical piece (styrene strip) to divide the large storefront windows.
dave
Dave,
Great idea, I'll give it some thought as I get it built.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on April 06, 2025, 08:36:14 AMHowdy Tom,
The cleanup looks good. I'm looking forward to another great build.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thanks for following along.
Still having fun.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on April 06, 2025, 10:14:20 AMTom,
Great job on the cleanup and flash removal. I think if it was me, I would have removed the sticky stuff first before removing the flash. Now the question everyone wants the answer to.... will brass tubing be required to straighten the walls. ;D
Ron,
Thank you and you are right, I should have cleaned the sticky first. But you know how hindsight is?
Not sure about the brass tubing yet. I haven't had the kind of hot sunny day I wanted to put the longer walls out.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on April 06, 2025, 10:35:04 AMLooks clean from here. :) Now to see the good part you putting this together!!
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks, yes, getting this one together looks like it may be a challenge.
I've already had issues with the turret. I'll be covering this in the coming posts.
Tom
According to the plan photos, the top of the turret is supposed to be flush with the top of both wall sections.
It isn't as shown below. The two turret pieces are slightly higher than the walls.
I'll leave this as is for now.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060425133220-550081295.jpeg)
Back in a few.
I also found the outside edges of the metal turret aren't perfectly straight.
I've aligned them with a metal ruler and you can see the gap at the bottom.
Left turret section -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060425133220-550121397.jpeg)
Right turret section -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060425133220-550111638.jpeg)
One option I had was to file some material off the bottom of the turret sections. I decided against doing this.
Another option I had was to file a little off the section of the wall where a small support for the turret is located. I did file a little here but not enough to get the turret flush with the top. There is very little on the wall turret support to remove.
I then decided to just take and wait and see how it all fits once the turret is assembled.
I cut the turret template from the instruction sheet. It was easier to use than trying to use the template attached to the large instruction sheet.
The instruction sheet is a pale yellow/cream so the photo color is correct.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060425133220-550101652.jpeg)
I used 5 minute epoxy to glue the turret sections together. This was a pain in the rear. To make it a little easier, I mixed the epoxy, let it sit for half the curing time, and then applied a little to the pieces.
This made gluing them much easier and I didn't have to hold them, just stick them together and aligned on the template pattern.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060425133220-55013559.jpeg)
The left and center sections of the turret fit together very well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060425133300-550141745.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060425133220-55013559.jpeg)
No such luck for the right side section. :'( :'(
You can see a thin gap between the center and right sections. Looks like putty filler is in my future.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060425133300-550151572.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060425133300-55016482.jpeg)
This is as level as I could get the three pieces of the turret. Still within the bubble, but not perfect.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060425142903-550202206.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060425133300-550171488.jpeg)
Done for today on this.
Tom, your doing a turrific job! ;D
Greg
Quote from: Ensign on April 06, 2025, 02:53:16 PMTom, your doing a turrific job! ;D
Greg
Greg,
Thanks and turrific play on words, purrfect!
Tom
Yes, I agree the right way to do this is assemble the entire turret, fix its problems, then work on that assembly to the walls. Use the assembly template to cut at least one intermediate floor and glue that into position, which will add a lot of strength and stability to the turret assembly.
Also double-check the turret roof, it looks a little crooked to me from your photos. That's something you'll want to take extra care to get plumb, particularly if you put a flagpole on top. (I just put a finial on mine, I didn't want to run the risk of an obviously out-of-plumb flagpole.) The kit has a finial, if I remember correctly. I used one from my stash of cast parts.
dave
Great job Tom.
Tom, nice job getting the turret together.
I know you'll come up with an ingenious plan to get it to fit properly with the rest of the building.
Tom,
Great job on the turret so far. In my experience metal casting at that size never go together perfectly. Looks like on a little putty will be required to fill the gaps on this one.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on April 06, 2025, 03:48:08 PMGreat job Tom.
Thank you Curt, appreciate you stopping by.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on April 06, 2025, 03:30:00 PMYes, I agree the right way to do this is assemble the entire turret, fix its problems, then work on that assembly to the walls. Use the assembly template to cut at least one intermediate floor and glue that into position, which will add a lot of strength and stability to the turret assembly.
Also double-check the turret roof, it looks a little crooked to me from your photos. That's something you'll want to take extra care to get plumb, particularly if you put a flagpole on top. (I just put a finial on mine, I didn't want to run the risk of an obviously out-of-plumb flagpole.) The kit has a finial, if I remember correctly. I used one from my stash of cast parts.
dave
Dave,
The turret roof was a little off as well as the steeple bottom. I plan on using the finial on top of the steeple.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on April 06, 2025, 06:24:25 PMTom, nice job getting the turret together.
I know you'll come up with an ingenious plan to get it to fit properly with the rest of the building.
Rick,
Thanks very much. The turret is also now level and I'm sure I can get it to fit the walls properly.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on April 06, 2025, 09:12:31 PMTom,
Great job on the turret so far. In my experience metal casting at that size never go together perfectly. Looks like on a little putty will be required to fill the gaps on this one.
Ron,
Thank you my friend. I got it together and with a little of the putty it now looks like it should.
Tom
Today, I used a larger file to level the top and bottom of the turret. It didn't take but a few light passes to get it leveled.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070425143337-55021277.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070425143337-55022302.jpeg)
I used the plastic putty to fill a few gaps.
When the putty was dry, I sprayed the turret with Ace Hardware Auto Primer Gray.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070425143338-550231166.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070425143338-55024799.jpeg)
The bottom of the steeple had small ridges of flash on the edges. I used a small piece of extra fine sandpaper and moved the steeple in circles to remove the flash.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070425143338-550251230.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070425143355-550262094.jpeg)
Now the turret and steeple are both level.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070425143416-550272127.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070425143416-55028288.jpeg)
Next I'll work on getting the walls together.
Done for today on this one.
That looks excellent, Tom!
dave
Quote from: deemery on April 07, 2025, 03:02:56 PMThat looks excellent, Tom!
dave
Dave,
Thank you, it was a few hours work but well worth the result.
Tom
This one's going to look great in Tahope!
You did your level best Tom! ;D
Ah, but is the work bench level is the question? 8)
Bernd
Tom, Great work on the turret, with the primer on it doesn't look like you used any putty at all.
I was wondering the same thing that Bernd is wondering about. 8)
Tom, I knew things would be on the level soon.
Wow Tom, very frustrating trying to get that turret right. Looks like you got there in the end.
You must have a lot of patience. I really like your little level. I just usually eye ball things.
I've built DPM's corner turret building, and whilst fiddly, was no where near the problems you've had.
I also did a kitbash combing 3 of the DPM Reeds books as one building, so had 6 sets of bay windows. That took some work.
Tom your patience and excellent modeling skills paid off again.
Howdy Tom, the turret and steeple look terrific. Nice work straightening the turret. Have fun, mike
Tom that is just wonderful work. Your patience paid off once again.
Jerry
Quote from: ReadingBob on April 07, 2025, 03:45:23 PMThis one's going to look great in Tahope!
Bob,
Thanks for the boost on this. However, I thought so as well, but I'm thinking now it may look better on the third level in Summit.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on April 07, 2025, 05:49:00 PMYou did your level best Tom! ;D
Curt,
I'll level with you and say I did! ;D
Tom
Quote from: Bernd on April 07, 2025, 06:30:20 PMAh, but is the work bench level is the question? 8)
Bernd
Bernd,
Ah, yes, the big question. Well, let me say that the work bench is as level as it will ever be.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090425151908-55033132.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090425151908-550351328.jpeg)
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on April 07, 2025, 07:46:52 PMTom, Great work on the turret, with the primer on it doesn't look like you used any putty at all.
I was wondering the same thing that Bernd is wondering about. 8)
Ron,
Thanks very much. I try to keep every thing level. And, I'm leveling with you both.
I did use some putty but not as much as I thought. The epoxy filled some of the larger gaps when I added it to the back. What little ran out was file off with a small hobby file.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on April 07, 2025, 07:49:31 PMTom, I knew things would be on the level soon.
Rick,
Thank you. It seems "level" is the word of the day.
Tom
Quote from: robert goslin on April 07, 2025, 10:18:58 PMWow Tom, very frustrating trying to get that turret right. Looks like you got there in the end.
You must have a lot of patience. I really like your little level. I just usually eye ball things.
I've built DPM's corner turret building, and whilst fiddly, was no where near the problems you've had.
I also did a kitbash combing 3 of the DPM Reeds books as one building, so had 6 sets of bay windows. That took some work.
Rob,
Thank you and yes, I do have patience when it comes to modeling. I found the little level at a local hardware store for .49.
And, I'll say WOW back to you. I love the kit bash of the three DPM Reeds Books. That is the very reason I love to kit bash, you get a structure nobody else has. I'm sure it took patience as well as some work. Fantastic kit bash.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on April 08, 2025, 07:15:59 AMTom your patience and excellent modeling skills paid off again.
Thank you my friend, Er, Butty.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on April 08, 2025, 07:48:18 AMHowdy Tom, the turret and steeple look terrific. Nice work straightening the turret. Have fun, mike
Mike, Howdy,
I thank you for the compliment on the turret, much apprecaited.
Still having fun.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on April 08, 2025, 08:43:25 AMTom that is just wonderful work. Your patience paid off once again.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you, much appreciate the comment. Patience I have, time - not so much.
Tom
Don't forget Plumb, Square and True..... :)
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 09, 2025, 03:21:34 PMQuote from: Bernd on April 07, 2025, 06:30:20 PMAh, but is the work bench level is the question? 8)
Bernd
Bernd,
Ah, yes, the big question. Well, let me say that the work bench is as level as it will ever be.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090425151908-55033132.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090425151908-550351328.jpeg)
Tom
Tom,
You just know I had to ask. You got me to using a level on some of my railroad bench work. Your good habits rub off you know. ;)
Quote from: Bernd on April 09, 2025, 05:22:07 PMQuote from: ACL1504 on April 09, 2025, 03:21:34 PMQuote from: Bernd on April 07, 2025, 06:30:20 PMAh, but is the work bench level is the question? 8)
Bernd
Bernd,
Ah, yes, the big question. Well, let me say that the work bench is as level as it will ever be.
Tom,
You just know I had to ask. You got me to using a level on some of my railroad bench work. Your good habits rub off you know. ;)
Bernd,
No problem, the funny thing is I always assumed my bench was level. Now I know. Good habits are always a good thing. 8)
Tom
I started gluing(epoxy) the walls together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100425172454-550651963.jpeg)
While the epoxy was setting I made sure the wall were square.
Once I got them square, I tightened the clamps.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100425172454-550661313.jpeg)
I also made sure the walls were a true vertical as the epoxy dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100425172455-550671990.jpeg)
Every thing will stay clamped until tomorrow morning. Even thought it is 5 minutes, I allow for me having just a little to much resin vs. hardener. To much resin and the 5 minute epoxy takes much longer to set and harden.
Safety valve for me. I'm not in a hurry as adding the turret is next.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100425172455-55068810.jpeg)
Tom, it's going together quickly.
Quote from: Rick on April 10, 2025, 08:02:39 PMTom, it's going together quickly.
Rick,
Yes, I want to get the basic walls done and move on.
Tom
Last night I glued the left side of the turret to the left side wall. This morning I glued the right side of the turret to the front wall section.
It was a little tricksie but wasn't as much of a problem as I thought.
And I got it level.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110425171207-55069863.jpeg)
The right side left me the gift of a gap.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110425171207-550702383.jpeg)
The left side didn't have a gap as did the right but it will get some putty attention anyway.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110425171207-550711346.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110425171207-550731131.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110425171207-550722144.jpeg)
After the putty was dry and sanded, I sprayed Tamiya Light as a primer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110425171249-550741157.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110425171249-55075891.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110425171249-550762199.jpeg)
Done for today on this.
Very nice job Tom.
Superb result, Tom!
dave
That looks putty.
I mean pretty
Howdy Tom, excellent work filling the gaps. Have fun, mike
Hello Tom, you've done a great job so far. I can't wait to see what you do with painting the building as well as what you do with all of the window spaces. There are a lot of upper level windows and even more storefront windows to fill up.
One comment on the process: When using putty or similar gap-filling/error-correcting techniques, looking at the structure after it's been primed is a real advantage. The color contrast between the putty and structure are gone, so you can see it more holistically. If there are places that need to be reworked, they're easier to spot. And I've not had any problems with putty adhesion to primer.
dave
Very well done Tom.
Jerry
Tom,
The building is coming along nicely.
Quote from: Rick on April 11, 2025, 06:54:21 PMThat looks putty.
I mean pretty
Rick,
Thanks, the putty makes it purty, err, I mean pretty. 8)
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on April 12, 2025, 09:48:46 AMHowdy Tom, excellent work filling the gaps. Have fun, mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thanks for the compliment. Still having fun.
Tom
Quote from: nycjeff on April 12, 2025, 05:57:14 PMHello Tom, you've done a great job so far. I can't wait to see what you do with painting the building as well as what you do with all of the window spaces. There are a lot of upper level windows and even more storefront windows to fill up.
Jeff,
Hey, thank you also for the comment and for following along. It will be some time before I start painting the actual colors on the walls, doors, windows and trim. I need to see how these will look and fit.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on April 12, 2025, 06:13:33 PMOne comment on the process: When using putty or similar gap-filling/error-correcting techniques, looking at the structure after it's been primed is a real advantage. The color contrast between the putty and structure are gone, so you can see it more holistically. If there are places that need to be reworked, they're easier to spot. And I've not had any problems with putty adhesion to primer.
dave
Dave,
Great comment and I agree. I was very happy to see after the priming on this one, no more putty was necessary. In the past, I've had no issues with putty sticking to the primer.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on April 13, 2025, 10:24:02 AMVery well done Tom.
Jerry
Jerry,
I appreciate the comment and feedback, thank you.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on April 13, 2025, 08:49:07 PMTom,
The building is coming along nicely.
Ron,
Thank you, much appreciated. I'm almost finished with the basic build, painting and detailing will come much later.
Tom
When I attempted to glue the third story wall in place, I found it to be just over 1/8" to long.
I measured the part needing removed and used my miter box and Zona saw blade to remove the offending part.
I determined the part to remove was a portion of the back end of the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110425171249-55077519.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110425171249-550782091.jpeg)
Problem solved and wall in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110425171310-550791185.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110425171310-550801884.jpeg)
Third story wall section primed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140425152431-550851918.jpeg)
There is a cast resin upper wall with chimneys that is to fit between the two stores. The high wall part goes in front and the shorter one towards the rear.
Glued in place and the primed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140425152509-550871756.jpeg)
Unlike Merchant's Row I, Row II doesn't have a full cast roof with details.
The kit has two pieces of black cardboard for the roof material. I cut two pieces to fit the roofs.
These are not glued in place, just wedged in to see how it looks. Installation will come much later.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140425152431-55082535.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140425152431-550862282.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140425152509-55088901.jpeg)
The two structures were placed in Tahope to see how they look.
I'm not convinced they will be planted here. With the Municipal Building, the three of them are just to much for the area.
I have many smaller, more appropriate DPM stores and buildings I can place in Tahope.
The Municipal Building will probably stay put. The two Merchant's Row building will fit much better on the third level in Summit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140425152510-550891846.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140425152510-550902385.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140425152510-550911026.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140425152542-5509221.jpeg)
In modeling, I've learned to pay attention to scale. Even in HO scale, it is particularly important.
Structures, placement of structures, the paint on them need to be in scale.
Sound in your locomotives need to be in scale for the model. I've visited model RR layouts where the sound is so loud it could be the real thing. Now, I do understand folks with hearing issues need the sound louder.
Loco speed needs to be in scale. Do you hear me Greg? Greg Speed in not in scale. ;D
Anyway, these two don't look in scale for the scene.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140425152542-550941815.jpeg)
The small white with green trim in the lower right of the next photo is the weekend quarters for the Judge.
The main courthouse is closed on the weekend, so the Judge's Quarters is used.
Dave Emery built the Judge's Quarters for the A&S RR and the residents of Tahope.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140425152542-550931919.jpeg)
I understand your thought process, Tom, but I do think when all those shops are painted up in different colours they will look quite different. At the moment they look like two big blocks of shops rather than eight much smaller individual shops. I'm not sure, however, how you could mock that up quickly.
Cheers, Mark.
The trio of buildings look like a substantial downtown, but I'm guessing that's not the look you're going for. I've seen towns where there are some substantial buildings all together, and the next street block was houses (so no transition from the big commercial structures to residential.)
dave
Tom, I think they look good where they're at, but I understand your reason for not keeping them together.
I know wherever they end up they'll look great.
Tom, your structures are all coming together well!
I think that they all look great right where you have now placed them now.
Greg
Hello Tom, the town of Tahope is certainly growing. In regards to your comments about scale. The two Merchant's Row buildings look like they fit into the overall scheme, but, to my eye, the Municipal building almost looks too big for the scene. Maybe it's because with them all painted with the primer color grey they look bigger than they are. I'm sure that when you are finished it will all look great.
Quote from: nycjeff on April 15, 2025, 09:50:26 AMHello Tom, the town of Tahope is certainly growing. In regards to your comments about scale. The two Merchant's Row buildings look like they fit into the overall scheme, but, to my eye, the Municipal building almost looks too big for the scene. Maybe it's because with them all painted with the primer color grey they look bigger than they are. I'm sure that when you are finished it will all look great.
The windows are larger in the Municipal Building, and the distance between floors is taller. That makes it look 'bigger'. But that's not uncommon. Some buildings were deliberately built to dominate their space. That's particularly true of public buildings and banks, both of which wanted to appear majestic to their customers/to the community. Good choices of colors should help even things out, but I'm not good enough at color theory to say what color the Municipal Building should be painted to make it look a bit smaller compared to the adjacent structures.
It's actually pretty common to see the floor distance vary across a row of city block buildings.
A thought for the Judge's Quarters: What if you put that on a slight landscaping rise, maybe 2-3 feet, above street level, leading up to the building? An easy way to try this is to put a 1/4" chunk of wood, layer some fabric over top, and then position the building. That would add a bit of height and 'prestige' to the smaller structure.
dave
Tom nice job on those buildings for sure. I like the placement of them.
But I'm sure you have in mind the look that you want.
Jerry
Looking swell Tom and wish I had all that real estate in Oh scale ;)
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 14, 2025, 04:59:44 PM.....Loco speed needs to be in scale. Do you hear me Greg? Greg Speed in not in scale.....
It can be if you're driving the right equipment, let's say a 360 hp, 6 cylinder engine attached to a prop at 8,000'..... ;D
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on April 14, 2025, 06:29:34 PMI understand your thought process, Tom, but I do think when all those shops are painted up in different colours they will look quite different. At the moment they look like two big blocks of shops rather than eight much smaller individual shops. I'm not sure, however, how you could mock that up quickly.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
Thanks for the comment. I agree they will look much different when painted. I was trying to see how they fit without painting but I think I can't get away from it.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on April 14, 2025, 06:50:11 PMThe trio of buildings look like a substantial downtown, but I'm guessing that's not the look you're going for. I've seen towns where there are some substantial buildings all together, and the next street block was houses (so no transition from the big commercial structures to residential.)
dave
Dave,
I agree with the comment, but as Mark stated, it will be much easier to picture if they were painted.
I'm still deciding what I want to do here. The Municipal Building will definitely stay.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on April 14, 2025, 07:49:08 PMTom, I think they look good where they're at, but I understand your reason for not keeping them together.
I know wherever they end up they'll look great.
Rick,
Thank you for your thoughts as well. My reason for not keeping they there is that it gives the street an unbalanced look. None of these three will fit on the opposite side of the street.
Tom
Quote from: Ensign on April 15, 2025, 09:04:34 AMTom, your structures are all coming together well!
I think that they all look great right where you have now placed them now.
Greg
Greg,
Thank you, I do think they look good but I'm trying to balance the structures on both sides. It may be that I need to build a few DPM stand alone stores for the other side and see how they all look.
Tom
Quote from: nycjeff on April 15, 2025, 09:50:26 AMHello Tom, the town of Tahope is certainly growing. In regards to your comments about scale. The two Merchant's Row buildings look like they fit into the overall scheme, but, to my eye, the Municipal building almost looks too big for the scene. Maybe it's because with them all painted with the primer color grey they look bigger than they are. I'm sure that when you are finished it will all look great.
Jeff,
The Municipal Building is big and the good citizens of Tahope spare no money to make it the show piece of downtown. I do think I need to add some color and see how they look then.
Thank you for the input.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on April 15, 2025, 10:06:34 AMThe windows are larger in the Municipal Building, and the distance between floors is taller. That makes it look 'bigger'. But that's not uncommon. Some buildings were deliberately built to dominate their space. That's particularly true of public buildings and banks, both of which wanted to appear majestic to their customers/to the community. Good choices of colors should help even things out, but I'm not good enough at color theory to say what color the Municipal Building should be painted to make it look a bit smaller compared to the adjacent structures.
It's actually pretty common to see the floor distance vary across a row of city block buildings.
A thought for the Judge's Quarters: What if you put that on a slight landscaping rise, maybe 2-3 feet, above street level, leading up to the building? An easy way to try this is to put a 1/4" chunk of wood, layer some fabric over top, and then position the building. That would add a bit of height and 'prestige' to the smaller structure.
dave
Dave,
The Municipal Building is big as it should be. It serves as Tahope's all purpose building for all city and county offices and the Tahopeans are very proud of their new building. They spared no expense in the construction.
I will have a small jail on the upper rear floor.
I've tried the Judge's Quarters on a slight elevation and it didn't look good. I've had it where it is now for the past couple of years and I'm not convinced it is the correct placement for it.
One day it will all flow to my liking.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on April 15, 2025, 10:30:03 AMTom nice job on those buildings for sure. I like the placement of them.
But I'm sure you have in mind the look that you want.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you and I know it will all come together when I get more structures built for the town.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on April 15, 2025, 10:32:36 AMLooking swell Tom and wish I had all that real estate in Oh scale ;)
Philip,
Thank you. I will add that having a lot of space can also be a curse. As a one many builder of the layout, it seems overly spacious at times. Trying to fill spaces that look natural is a real challenge.
Tom
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 15, 2025, 02:56:11 PMQuote from: ACL1504 on April 14, 2025, 04:59:44 PM.....Loco speed needs to be in scale. Do you hear me Greg? Greg Speed in not in scale.....
It can be if you're driving the right equipment, let's say a 360 hp, 6 cylinder engine attached to a prop at 8,000'..... ;D
Greg,
You definitely need scale speed up there.
Tom
I'll share a little family history here as well as some paint schemes on old Victorian structures.
My mother was born and raised in Vandalia, IL. Vandalia was the Capital of Illinois from 1819 to 1839. State Senator, Abe. Lincoln, petitioned the state to move the capital to Springfield in 1839.
The Old State House is, to this day, the oldest standing building in Illinois. It was built in 1836.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160425130447-551101545.jpeg)
I last visited Vandalia, Il. in 2016. My younger sister and I gave the Vandalia Historical Society two land grant documents. One was dated 1840 and was titled to my Great, Great Grand Father Simeon Perkins. The Land Grant was for 40 acres and signed by President Martin Van Buren.
The second Land Grant was for Simeon Perkins, the same person, for 60 acres, and signed by Franklin Pierce in 1855.
Instead of keeping them here in a box, we felt they should be given to the Historical Society. I had the two signatures verified and took a huge tax deduction for the donation instead of selling them.
Across from the Old State House, is a three story structure that served as a wayside tavern/ hotel for visitors. It was built by a Mr. M. Hall in 1867. The building leans to the right. You can see how much it leans if you place a straight edge next to the lower bricks.
The door in the center on the second floor, lead to a balcony.
I like the color as it looks like a dark peach. The beige trim with the white window trim go well as three colors. I'll try to use this color on one of the Merchant's Row stores.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160425130416-551021828.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160425130416-55103696.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160425130416-551042202.jpeg)
To the right of the Hall structure is an old Victorian Store. It is know as the Jerauld Building, built in 1892. It was, in 2016, painted all gray on the front. I wonder what wonderful colors were on it when built in 1892.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160425130447-551071638.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160425130447-55108929.jpeg)
The photo below shows two more old Victorian Stores. The one on the left is the Jacob Fauke Building, built in 1891.
The store on the right was built by my Great Grand Father in 1892 and is know as the Perkin's Block.
It seems like more gray paint on these two, but the is some color to offset the gray.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160425130417-55105760.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160425130417-551061152.jpeg)
According to my mother, her Grand Father, Simeon Perkins lived up stairs with his family. I spoke to the local historian in Vandalia and was told that both of these building were modernized with new lower store fronts sometime in the 1930's.
When Simeon died, his son, Ben Perkins took over and opened Perkin's Hardware on the left side. The center door lead to the upstairs.
Howdy Tom,
Cool photos and memories. Thanks for posting.
Have fun,
mike
In the early 1920's, my mother's Uncle, Ben Perkins, had a house built some three blocks from the Perkins Block Building. The house had no garage and what is now the garage was the carriage house and was open ended. Later, one end was closed in. There was no connection from the house to the garage as seen in the photo below.
In 1962 I stayed in the house for the last time. There was no deck around the front and side. The house-garage connection was not built then either. We stayed in the upper right bedroom. The two windows on the roof are attic windows.
The house now has vinyl siding and was white with green door and window trim in 1962.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160425130447-551092093.jpeg)
Quote from: friscomike on April 16, 2025, 01:54:44 PMHowdy Tom,
Cool photos and memories. Thanks for posting.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thanks Mike, still having fun.
Tom
The Hall bldg looks like the brick was painted. That was relatively common even back in the late 1800s. The legacy colors on the upper stories on the Perkins building(s) is interesting to see. I wonder when that was last painted, the colors look authentic but the paint is in much better condition than I'd expect for 100 year old paint...
dave
Dave,
Great info on the Testor's. I've used the squadron green in the past and didn't really care for the results.
I have no history on the paint. Mom said it was white as far as she remembers. She was born in 1918.
Tom
I decided to paint MR2 also. For the end store, I used Tamiya Light Sand. I taped and sprayed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160425163230-55119785.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160425163230-55120569.jpeg)
After spraying the rear wall section, I noticed a small gap in the wall where they were glued together.
When the paint cures, I'll used the plastic putty to fix it and then spray the putty.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160425163230-55121750.jpeg)
Tom, thanks for the town tour.
Should give you good ideas on paint schemes.
Enjoying the trip down memory lane, great photos Tom..... 8)
Hey Tom interesting history lesson. I bet it brings back some nice memories.
I like the paint color on this building a lot.
Jerry
Doing great things Tpom.
Tom, that was a very interesting town tour, thanks for sharing that with us. Like the fact that you are using that as your inspiration for the colour schemes on the Merchant Row buildings. What you have done so far looks great.
Quote from: deemery on April 16, 2025, 03:21:37 PMThe Hall bldg looks like the brick was painted. That was relatively common even back in the late 1800s. The legacy colors on the upper stories on the Perkins building(s) is interesting to see. I wonder when that was last painted, the colors look authentic but the paint is in much better condition than I'd expect for 100 year old paint...
dave
Dave,
The Hall building had a fresh paint job when i was there. Mom said the Hall building white in color as long as she could remember. I have no other knowledge about the paint schemes.
I forgot to mention the Old State House is now the Vandalia, Fayette County Historical Society Museum.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on April 16, 2025, 08:56:10 PMTom, thanks for the town tour.
Should give you good ideas on paint schemes.
Rick,
You are welcome and yes it helps with the colors.
Tom
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 17, 2025, 02:20:25 PMEnjoying the trip down memory lane, great photos Tom..... 8)
Greg,
Me too, thanks.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on April 17, 2025, 02:20:59 PMHey Tom interesting history lesson. I bet it brings back some nice memories.
I like the paint color on this building a lot.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks for stopping by and the comment. I spent many summers in Vandalia and the hardware store.
If you are talking about the Hall Building, I agree. Although they all look good.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on April 21, 2025, 03:29:55 PMTom, that was a very interesting town tour, thanks for sharing that with us. Like the fact that you are using that as your inspiration for the colour schemes on the Merchant Row buildings. What you have done so far looks great.
Ron,
I appreciate the comment very much, thank you. It was a fun and exciting place to visit as a youngster. To this day I can still remember the smell of Great Uncle Ben's hardware. I guess that's on reason I love hardware stores.
Tom
I used the same brick color for the corner store and common roof brick on MR II.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230425154632-55153789.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230425154632-551541196.jpeg)
Yes for sure that is a perfect brick color.
Jerry
I agree with Jerry about the color.
Tom, nice brick color.
Quote from: Jerry on April 23, 2025, 04:15:04 PMYes for sure that is a perfect brick color.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you, I'm very pleased with the brick color.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on April 23, 2025, 04:26:55 PMI agree with Jerry about the color.
Curt,
Thank you kind sir.
Tom