Magnuson's Merchant's Row III is the last of the downtown row series of stores. The stores in this set aren't as deep as the ones in the other two series.
MR III will fit on the opposite side of the street. It will not leave much real estate for those exiting the rear but it will work, barely.
There are three stores in this row of merchants.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160425164454-551221464.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160425164454-551232028.jpeg)
The walls are very thin and slightly warped. I set them on a piece of glass and then in the sun for about 45 minutes.
It was near 80 today but hot enough to warm the resin walls and glass. I let them cool on the work bench and the walls are still flat after several hours of cooling.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160425164454-55124984.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160425164454-55125137.jpeg)
Done for today.
Howdy Tom, away we go. Looking forward to your build. Have fun, mike
Another day, another build. ;) ;D
It's great you're getting a lot done on the layout.
I'll be looking in Tom..... :)
Hi Tom.
With those vertical columns on the end walls it would be very easy to reduce the width of the block if needed.
Cheers, Mark.
I'm watching Tom.
Tom,
You're going to be an expert putting those kits together when you are done.
Quote from: friscomike on April 16, 2025, 05:48:34 PMHowdy Tom, away we go. Looking forward to your build. Have fun, mike
Mike,
Yepper, here goes another one.
Still having fun for sure.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on April 16, 2025, 08:48:18 PMAnother day, another build. ;) ;D
It's great you're getting a lot done on the layout.
Rick,
This is a smaller one than I and II but just as deep. I'm still considering my options on this one.
Tom
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 17, 2025, 02:18:47 PMI'll be looking in Tom..... :)
Greg,
Thanks Butty. Let me know if you see anything.
Tom
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on April 19, 2025, 09:05:48 PMHi Tom.
With those vertical columns on the end walls it would be very easy to reduce the width of the block if needed.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
Very interesting observation my friend. That is one reason I haven't glued the walls together on this one. It seems we are thinking along the same lines. However, the side walls have the brick details as the rear wall is glued to the insides of the two side walls.
I was thinking I could cover or partially cover this with a rear downspout and scupper.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on April 21, 2025, 01:22:51 PMI'm watching Tom.
Butty Curt,
Happy to have you along.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on April 21, 2025, 03:22:09 PMTom,
You're going to be an expert putting those kits together when you are done.
Ron,
These kits are a challenge for sure. I'm wondering if they were this messy 40+ years ago when I first got them and didn't build them. I guess is, probably yes, absolutely!
Tom
I remember assembling some Magnuson Resin kits at least 30 years ago, and they were a challenge. But they rewarded work with great looking buildings, and at the time they were fairly unique for mid-size city structures that weren't highly compressed.
dave
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 21, 2025, 05:17:02 PMQuote from: Mark Dalrymple on April 19, 2025, 09:05:48 PMHi Tom.
With those vertical columns on the end walls it would be very easy to reduce the width of the block if needed.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
Very interesting observation my friend. That is one reason I haven't glued the walls together on this one. It seems we are thinking along the same lines. However, the side walls have the brick details as the rear wall is glued to the insides of the two side walls.
I was thinking I could cover or partially cover this with a rear downspout and scupper.
Tom
You could also make two cuts and splice the two ends together, thus keeping the brickwork on the end. If you make both cuts the same side of a column, the join should be invisible. But yes, there are many ways to hide the join - just study George Sellio's work for ideas on how to do this.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on April 24, 2025, 01:54:02 AMHi Tom.
You could also make two cuts and splice the two ends together, thus keeping the brickwork on the end. If you make both cuts the same side of a column, the join should be invisible. But yes, there are many ways to hide the join - just study George Sellio's work for ideas on how to do this.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
Yes, that is an ideal but I think for times sake, I can hide the end with a downspout or weeds. Actually, I'm not even sure the ends will show all that much detail.
Tom
ACL 1504~,
Hey brotherman, just stopped by for a diet pepsi. ;D
KP-out...
Quote from: tct855 on April 27, 2025, 10:59:19 AMACL 1504~,
Hey brotherman, just stopped by for a diet pepsi. ;D
KP-out...
Brother T,
They are in the small frig under the coaling tower. Help yourself.
Tom
Tom, like the tip of taking the resin walls and let them cook in the sun to make them flat. Hope you can add a Pepsi sign to the model...Tommy
Tom,
Seeking help from the Master Craftsman of warped kit walls, I have a modeling question for you, Sir.
I have two walls in a Master Creations Blandings & Gallard C & C Co. kit, that the resin walls are
slightly warped on the main structure. Should I glue square tubing to the structure wall (as you have
done in the past on another Magnuson project), before attempting to straighten them or just glue them
to the walls without doing that first?
My thought is if I do glue first, that the walls may break, as the warp is slightly evident, but enough
to warrant another method. I would hate to see them break without trying something else first.
Thanks,
Rich
Rich,
I have that same kit and my walls are only slightly warped also. Some of the walls are thick and some very thin. Before you epoxy the walls, lay them on a flat surface like a piece of glass. Lay the glass and the walls in the sun and monitor the heat. I've had great success with this method.
https://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=6988.0 (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=6988.0)
Even after leaving them in the sun for about an hour, the walls were still very slightly warped, but much less so. I haven't put them in the sun for a second time as I've been on other projects.
If the walls are slightly warped as you say, try the sun and glass method. If that fails, the epoxy method will most definitely work.
I don't recommend putting them in a micro wave. If the sun won't help you can use the brass (my preferable method). I guess aluminum square stock would would work but I've never used the aluminum. Do not use wood squares as it won't keep the walls from the warp.
When you epoxy the square tubing, be sure to allow/measure for the corner walls to fit. You want the walls to be as square as possible, it makes adding the corner wall much easier.
Hope this helps with you journey. I've had excellent results using the square tubing.
Tom
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on April 27, 2025, 04:39:26 PMTom, like the tip of taking the resin walls and let them cook in the sun to make them flat. Hope you can add a Pepsi sign to the model...Tommy
Tommy,
Sorry, I missed your post. My apologies.
I will definitely add Pepsi signs where I can.
Tom
Tom,
Thank you for the technique again. I will definitely try the warped wall on glass treatment in the sun before proceeding further. I will report back with my results. PS: It may be a while as I am not ready to build it yet.
Rich