Time to open up the other kit my better half gave me this past X-Mas. This one is the Frank Lava Gunsmith (https://fosscalemodels.com/collections/ho-scale-kits/products/frank-lava-gunsmith-ho-scale-kit) kit from FOS Scale Models. I'm not sure I'll be able to shoehorn this one into the switching layout I plan on building but having it in its completed form will help be decide.
Here's the first peek at what's inside the box.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525112942-552792148.jpeg)
The contents. A couple of sealed bags of laser cut components, window & door castings, etc. Instructions, strip wood, a contained with 3D printed and cast metal detail castings. But oh no! :( There should be a 3D printed wall section (it sits above the store front. It's AWOL. I sent an e-mail to the address in the instructions and got a reply that the information would be forwarded to Doug. Hopefully the replacement arrives in a timely fashion.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525112943-552811153.jpeg)
If you have this kit pay attention to this sheet of laser cut parts. Everything is a part. Even the outer edge. No waste here.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525112944-55282799.jpeg)
As I usually do, I started by removing the plastic doors and windows from their sprues using a sprue cutter. Some folks (great modelers to be sure) prefer to paint them while they're still on the sprue. Nothing wrong with that. I happen to prefer removing them and cleaning them up prior to painting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525112945-552831415.jpeg)
A couple of quick swipes with an emery board touches up any nubs that may have been left by the sprue cutter (thiough they're barely noticeable).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525112945-552842446.jpeg)
Something Tom (ACL1504) and experience has taught me is to check to make sure you have enough doors and windows to fill all the openings. In this case they're all there. It really kills the momentum when find out you're one or two short after they've been painted, weathered, dry brushed, the windows have been glazed, etc. But, just in case, I have a couple of Tichey Window and Door assortment packs I keep handy. If one is missing, I can typically find match in those assortments.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525113105-552852015.jpeg)
To be continued in a moment... ;)
Bob, I'll be here following along on this project.
I clean up the metal castings with and assortment of files and sanding sticks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525113106-552861357.jpeg)
There's the sanding stick (from Hobby Lobby) being used to follow up where the file was used.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525113106-552872144.jpeg)
There's a sprue with several castings (cans, telephones, electric meters, etc.) included in the kit. An old pair of rail nippers works well for removing the parts from the sprue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525113107-55288407.jpeg)
Some of the 3D printed components need to be removed from their base. The sprue cutter works well for this most of the time. Sometimes it can reach in to where it needs to go and other things need to be used. Like and X-Acto knife.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525113108-55289342.jpeg)
I clean up the 3D printed components with sanding sticks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525113222-55290368.jpeg)
Bonus Question - What show does the University of American Samoa Law School t-shirt I'm wearing reference?
There's a ton of pigeons included in this kit! I debated painting them before removing them from the carrier but opted to remove them prior to painting. I think they're too close together to paint when they're still attached to the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525113223-55291123.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;D
Quote from: Rick on May 13, 2025, 07:36:06 PMBob, I'll be here following along on this project.
You're the first one here, Rick. You can have a seat in the front row. ;)
I'll be following Bob as always.
Continuing on I remove all the laser cut parts from the thinner sheets next. For this I use a single edged razor blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525113224-552921016.jpeg)
And I clean them up with an emery board. Just a couple of swipes does the trick.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525113225-55293893.jpeg)
Same for the clapboard wall sections. A single edged razor blade to remove them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525113225-55294579.jpeg)
But a little more aggressive sanding with the emery board to square up the edges. The laser cuts at a slight angle to the edges are necessary 90 degrees.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525113339-55295344.jpeg)
There's a clear lamp post (I assume this was 3D printed as well) that I wanted to prime and paint the base and post but not the glass globe. So, I used a small disposable brush and painted the globe with MicroScale Industries Micro Mask. Normally this gets applied over a painted, gloss, finish. I hope it doesn't give me any trouble being painted over the raw finish. We'll find out after I paint it when I go to remove the mask.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525113340-552962314.jpeg)
I then braced the walls as per the template. The only thing tricky about this is the bracing for the side walls has to match the height of the rear wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525113341-55297607.jpeg)
I like the pilot model Doug built. I'm going to use similar colors. This will be the first time I'm going to use black as a trim color. The instructions reference a Tire Black from a brand of paint I don't have on hand. Rather than hunting for it I opted to make a little sample card of some of the black paints I have on hand.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525113342-552981539.jpeg)
I think the Vallejo German Grey is going to the winner. Alright, it's not black. It sure looks black to me though.
More in a moment... :)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on May 13, 2025, 07:48:44 PMI'll be following Bob as always.
Glad to have you here Curt. Take a seat next to Rick. ;D
Pigeons, eh? They could be a painting challenge, pigeons can be kinda colorful within a limited palette. ;D
I use German Panzer Grey as my standard "scale black" color. It's close to the old Floquil color, and a lot easier to find these days.
dave
Since I had the black paints out, and the walls braced, I took this opportunity to paint the inside of the walls black. If I light this one up (which I most likely will) this will prevent the light from passing through the walls. I also like a black interior in case you can see inside a window.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525113342-5529939.jpeg)
Next up, I stained the walls with Hunterline Weathering Mix Light Gray. Sometimes I use their Driftwood. Sometimes I'll used an Alcohol and India Ink (A&I) mix.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525113449-553002471.jpeg)
Before I stained the strip wood with the Hunterline weathering mix there were two larger pieces that needed to be cut to match the width of the store front. After trimming the other end off and sanding it smooth, I marked where the cut needed to be made.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525113450-553014.jpeg)
I used a fine-toothed razor saw and a square to make the cuts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525113451-553022327.jpeg)
Next up I used a makeup sponge to paint the walls Oyster White.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-130525113452-553031969.jpeg)
That's where I'm currently at. All the detail parts have been primed with a Khaki color rattle can. I'm going to be painting the detail castings for a few days (at least). I'm still waiting on the missing front wall section. I'm hoping it arrives before I reach the point where I need it. If not, I have a small FOS freebie sitting on the workbench that I'll open up and work on.
Thanks for following along!
Quote from: deemery on May 13, 2025, 07:52:21 PMPigeons, eh? They could be a painting challenge, pigeons can be kinda colorful within a limited palette. ;D
I use German Panzer Grey as my standard "scale black" color. It's close to the old Floquil color, and a lot easier to find these days.
dave
Yeah, the pigeons will be a challenge. I also have some 3D printed rabbits (https://miniprints.com/products/rabbits) and figures (including George Sellios (https://miniprints.com/products/george-sellios?_pos=3&_psq=George&_ss=e&_v=1.0) and Tony Koester (https://miniprints.com/products/tony-koester?_pos=1&_psq=Koester&_ss=e&_v=1.0)) from Miniprints (https://miniprints.com/) that I should clean up and paint.
I don't know if I can find German Panzer Grey without hitting a real hobby shop (or shopping on-line). Hobby Lobby is close, but the selections are rather limited. Thanks for the tip!
Quote from: ReadingBob on May 13, 2025, 08:08:47 PMQuote from: deemery on May 13, 2025, 07:52:21 PMPigeons, eh? They could be a painting challenge, pigeons can be kinda colorful within a limited palette. ;D
I use German Panzer Grey as my standard "scale black" color. It's close to the old Floquil color, and a lot easier to find these days.
dave
Yeah, the pigeons will be a challenge. I also have some 3D printed rabbits (https://miniprints.com/products/rabbits) and figures (including George Sellios (https://miniprints.com/products/george-sellios?_pos=3&_psq=George&_ss=e&_v=1.0) and Tony Koester (https://miniprints.com/products/tony-koester?_pos=1&_psq=Koester&_ss=e&_v=1.0)) from Miniprints (https://miniprints.com/) that I should clean up and paint.
I don't know if I can find German Panzer Grey without hitting a real hobby shop (or shopping on-line). Hobby Lobby is close, but the selections are rather limited. Thanks for the tip!
I think that Vallejo color you're using is the same, or very very close. (Of course, particularly in wartime, paint QA tends to "loosen up" a bit...)
dave
I'll be following along Bob, but I believe it's easier to leave the pigeons on the sprue for painting purposes, same might go for some of the other smaller items. I have no idea how to 'fix' this since they are so tiny. Just look at it as a real challenge. I'm sure you're up to it. Mark
Quote from: craftsmankits on May 13, 2025, 09:11:46 PMI'll be following along Bob, but I believe it's easier to leave the pigeons on the sprue for painting purposes, same might go for some of the other smaller items. I have no idea how to 'fix' this since they are so tiny. Just look at it as a real challenge. I'm sure you're up to it. Mark
Thanks for the thoughts, Mark! I gave some thought to cutting the base holding the pigeons, from front to back, separating them into rows. Probably could have cut it using a cut off disk in a Dremel. I opted not to. When I paint them, I'll tape a piece of blue to the workbench, upside down, so I have a sticky surface to hold them in place. Then it'll be 10x Optivisor and tiny paintbrush time. ;D
Howdy Bob,
The kit looks like a fun build. Thanks for sharing your process for building the kit. It looks great!
Have fun,
mike
Bob,
This will be another fantastic build by you on one of Doug's great kits. I just got mine in the mail yesterday. I also got the MD Garage. Looking forward to building the garage.
Anyway, great start.
Tom
Your pigeon painting solution is about the only one possible once off the sprue. Any lights to this build Bob?
Mark
Your off to a good start Bob.
As always I'm sure there will be tips along the way on how to do things.
Jerry
Quote from: friscomike on May 14, 2025, 04:00:29 PMHowdy Bob,
The kit looks like a fun build. Thanks for sharing your process for building the kit. It looks great!
Have fun,
mike
Thanks for following along, Mike! It is a neat kit. I hope I can do it justice. :)
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 14, 2025, 04:12:29 PMBob,
This will be another fantastic build by you on one of Doug's great kits. I just got mine in the mail yesterday. I also got the MD Garage. Looking forward to building the garage.
Anyway, great start.
Tom
Thanks, Tom! That MD Garage looks like an interesting kit. It'll look great in the area you're planning on using it.
Quote from: craftsmankits on May 14, 2025, 09:48:22 PMYour pigeon painting solution is about the only one possible once off the sprue. Any lights to this build Bob?
Mark
Hi Mark! Yes, I'll be adding some level of lighting to this one. Once I get the walls together, I'll have a better feel for where I'll be placing the lights. Thanks for following along!
Quote from: Jerry on May 15, 2025, 12:08:45 AMYour off to a good start Bob.
As always I'm sure there will be tips along the way on how to do things.
Jerry
Happy to have you following along, Jerry! Progress has slowed a bit as I'm in the painting of the details phase. I try to paint all the details, so they'll be ready for use when the time comes as opposed to painting them when they're needed.
It's been a while since I updated this thread. I had this batch of pictures uploaded and ready to go before I went on my trip but never got around to updating the thread so here goes.
I painted all the detail parts, including the 24 pigeons, which took some time. I wish I could give a step by step or rhyme/reason for this process, but I don't really have one. I simply grab a color I need for one specific thing that catches my eye (e.g. bottles in the garbage cans), paint them and then look for other places that color can be used. Over the years I've become a little more creative at mixing colors to get different shades, etc.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040625205041-55467752.jpeg)
Given the trim color I'm using is a dark grey (pretty much black) I debated with myself about applying the light gray/khaki colors over it (using the dry sponge technique) because it will be really easy to overdo it. I opted to go ahead and give it a shot. I'm dabbing on the pale grey color here and trying not to overdo it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040625205043-55469444.jpeg)
Next up is the Khaki paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040625205044-55470265.jpeg)
Good news! The missing part arrived in the mail. Included with it was a sheet of posters. ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040625205049-554752214.jpeg)
I moved on to prepping the walls. I mark where I want rows of 'nail holes' using a scale ruler. Along the ends, aligned with doors, windows, etc., and every 2 scale feet otherwise. Not fun when the open space between two rows is and odd number, like 9 scale feet. I just eyeball it and center the ruler between the gap by adding a 1/2 foot to my starting point to split the difference.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040625205211-554761119.jpeg)
Then I use a steel square and a ponce wheel to add the 'nail holes'.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040625205212-55477338.jpeg)
More in a moment... :)
I roughed up the walls a bit using a chisel blade in an X-Acto handle. Slip the blade under the clapboards to lift them a bit. Twist it to split off a chunk if you want a real weather-beaten look.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040625205218-55482351.jpeg)
I used and Alcohol and Ink (A&I) mix to weather the walls a bit. Given this is over white paint I wanted a light coating of the A&I. Not too dark. This is also a good time to "scrub", or clean up, any mistakes I may have made applying the grey/khaki colors. The A&I can wash off the grey/khaki colors, as well as the underlying white paint, and blend them together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040625205214-554792228.jpeg)
Time to add the trim to the walls, per the template. I painted/weathered all four sides of the 1/16" square strip wood so before I add the glue I exam it to seek which sides look best and orient it, so they'll be visible and apply the glue. After applying the glue, I smooth it out/remove the excess with my fingertip (and them wipe my fingertip on a paper towel).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040625205220-554841433.jpeg)
Get the corner piece lined up against the edge of the wall and hold it for a few minutes until the glue starts to set.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040625205435-554851722.jpeg)
The corner piece is longer than necessary, so I trim it to fit using a single edged razor blade after the glue sets.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040625205435-55486774.jpeg)
Using the same glue, which is Canopy Glue by the way, I apply the glue to the inside of the window openings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040625205436-554871510.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;)
Then I press the window into the opening. Oops, my finger is covering the window in this picture.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040625205437-55488826.jpeg)
This kit comes with precut glazing for the windows, so I opted to use that instead of MicroScale Industries Micro Kristal Klear. I did use the latter, however, as glue to hold the glazing in place. I applied just a little bit of to the back of the windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040625205438-55489155.jpeg)
And then carefully positioned the glazing in place. Try to keep fingers prints off of the glazing. I handled it by the edges and wiped it clean with before positioning it in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040625205534-5549011.jpeg)
Next, I assembled the store front following the instructions. There are quite a few little pieces that make up the store front.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-040625205535-554911215.jpeg)
And that brings me to the end of the pictures I uploaded for this update!
More to come. One of these days. ;D
Great modeling Bob. Glad you're back at it again. Can you get a closer shot of the dark gray with the drybrushed Kakhi?
Howdy Bob, nice work on all those details. Have fun, mike
8) Nice work!
Looking good Bob.
Bob nice work as usual!
Jerry
Bob,
Tedious work painting details. Nice job.
Rich
Looks good Bob.
Along with the very familiar format ;)
--Rich
Quote from: PRR Modeler on June 21, 2025, 11:10:50 AMGreat modeling Bob. Glad you're back at it again. Can you get a closer shot of the dark gray with the drybrushed Kakhi?
Thanks, Curt! I'll try to get a closer shot of the store front in the next session. There's a minor issue with it that I may/may not try to correct but I want to show it so others can be aware of it.
Quote from: friscomike on June 21, 2025, 11:30:52 AMHowdy Bob, nice work on all those details. Have fun, mike
Thank you, Mike! The details included in this one are really nice. Shouldn't be too much longer until I can actually start using them. :)
Quote from: Philip on June 21, 2025, 04:59:32 PM8) Nice work!
Thank you, Philip! Glad to have you following along! :)
Quote from: Rick on June 21, 2025, 05:01:07 PMLooking good Bob.
Thanks, Rick! I'm having fun with this one. ;D
Quote from: Jerry on June 21, 2025, 10:57:12 PMBob nice work as usual!
Jerry
Thanks, Jerry! Appreciate having you following along and the comments. ;)
Quote from: Pennman on June 21, 2025, 11:36:38 PMBob,
Tedious work painting details. Nice job.
Rich
Thanks, Rich! Yes, painting the details is tedious and time consuming. I used to paint them as I needed them. Somewhere along the line (hmm...wasn't that a Billy Joel song?) I switched to painting most of them up front so they'd be ready when I needed them. ;D
Quote from: Still_RichBeau on June 22, 2025, 12:33:56 PMLooks good Bob.
Along with the very familiar format ;)
--Rich
Thanks, Rich! Yeah, I know I repeat myself, a lot, on each thread but it is what it is. ;D
just caught up with this build Bob, looks great..... 8)
I'd be interested in a look at your photography set up, or how to. The build is interesting. No one 'bit' on your t-shirt question early on did they?
Quote from: GPdemayo on June 22, 2025, 03:03:11 PMjust caught up with this build Bob, looks great..... 8)
Thanks, Butty! I need to get back at this one. I'm looking ahead to what's next but can't get there until this one has been completed. ;)
Quote from: KentuckySouthern on June 24, 2025, 02:47:46 PMI'd be interested in a look at your photography set up, or how to. The build is interesting. No one 'bit' on your t-shirt question early on did they?
Here's my little set up, Karl.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-071016145947-167922056.jpeg)
the camera is an old Sony Cybershot. It has buttons on the back. By feel, I know which one triggers the time delay for the shutter. If I swapped it out for my newer (but still old) camera there wouldn't be any buttons on the back, and I'd probably have to pick it up every time to turn on the time delay.
No, nobody bit on my t-shirt question. Here's the answer:
In Better Call Saul, Jimmy McGill (who becomes the eponymous Saul Goodman) transforms his life via a correspondence law degree from the University of American Samoa. McGill uses the degree to scrape his way into increasingly creative and lucrative transgressions, never unduly troubled by his legal and ethical obligations.
As Jesse Pinkman put it - "You don't want a criminal lawyer... you want a 'criminal' lawyer," ;D
Most higher end cameras have both corded and cordless remotes. I don't know if a Canon DSLR/Mirrorless remote would work on a Canon point-and-click. But, of course, you could get a cheapo used DSLR and the associated remote. Older DSLRs are cheap, but still very good for this kind of photography!
dave
Nice setup Bob. And it sure seems to work for you. I wouldn't change a thing.
Jerry
Thanks for posting the photo 'studio'
Bob, your pictures are more than good enough.
Keep using what you have.
Bob,
Getting caught up on this one. Your photos are fine and the modeling is coming along nicely.
I also use the Sony Cybershot camera but don't have the desk top tripod.
Tom
Always good seeing a face behind the name Bob. 8)
Quote from: Jerry on June 25, 2025, 12:22:39 PMNice setup Bob. And it sure seems to work for you. I wouldn't change a thing.
Jerry
Thanks, Jerry. I will stick with what I have until it no longer works. ;D
Quote from: KentuckySouthern on June 25, 2025, 01:27:40 PMThanks for posting the photo 'studio'
You're welcome, Karl. It's nothing fancy but it gets the job done. More or less. ::)
Quote from: Rick on June 25, 2025, 06:42:42 PMBob, your pictures are more than good enough.
Keep using what you have.
Will do, Rick! Thanks for commenting.
Quote from: ACL1504 on June 26, 2025, 12:33:13 PMBob,
Getting caught up on this one. Your photos are fine and the modeling is coming along nicely.
I also use the Sony Cybershot camera but don't have the desk top tripod.
Tom
Thanks, Tom! I better get back to work on this one before you break yours out and finish it before I finish this one. :-[
Quote from: Philip on June 28, 2025, 07:55:55 AMAlways good seeing a face behind the name Bob. 8)
That's an old photo, Philip, so the face is a little more wrinkled and there's more gray in the beard and hair. ;D
Okay. I've been criminally negligent of this build and thread. A couple trips over the summer (a Viking River cruise on the Rhine plus our standard drive up north to visit the family) kept me away from the workbench and killed any momentum I had going. So, let's get caught up with where I'm at. I hope I can remember what I was doing when I took these pictures.
When I assembled the store front, I noticed a small gap between some the trim pieces and board that goes across the top. It probably wouldn't be noticeable, but it bugged me.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100825182633-558241918.jpeg)
From the rear you can see the top board sits slightly above the wall piece.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100825182634-558271011.jpeg)
It ended up bugging me enough that I pried off the top board and did a little judicious trimming of the board behind the trim pieces so it would match the height of the trim pieces. Then I glued the top board back in place and life was good. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100825182635-55828543.jpeg)
The windows that go in the 3D printed brick wall are made up of laser cut components. I glued the glazing in place using Micro Krystal Klear from Microscale Industries and then glued the parts together. The instructions weren't clear on the way these were supposed to go together but, fortunately, the previous kit I had built had similar windows, so I knew what to do. When adding the assembled windows to the wall they practically fell through the opening. Getting them into the right position and gluing them in place took a little guess work and patience. I added some black 'pitch' inside to seal off anywhere that light might leak through the edge of the windows and the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100825182636-558291681.jpeg)
I painted a sheet of printer paper with a mint green acrylic craft paper and then cut it into strips slightly wider that the window opening. I then cut off short pieces, random lengths, to use as blinds inside the windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100825182637-55830360.jpeg)
A little glue around the top and side of the window opening, inside of course, to affix the blinds in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100825182727-55831734.jpeg)
More in a moment... :D
Just position the paper in place. I try to make sure I don't have all the blinds pulled down to the exact same height. Being random heights seems more natural to me.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100825182728-55832896.jpeg)
Occasionally I do something dumb, like I did here, and glued the blind to the wall with the wall-oriented upside down. Oops. I noticed this one when I was assembling the walls. It's a simple fix. Rip the old blind out and then glue a new one in. :)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100825182728-558331952.jpeg)
One of my favorite parts of any build. Gluing the walls together. I deviated from the instructions here. The instructions say to glue the side walls to the 3D printed wall first. Well, that looked like it was going to be a challenge holding the upper wall in place, keeping the side walls square, while the glue set. So, I opted to glue the side walls to the rear wall first and then add the 3D printed wall the front afterwards. That worked just fine.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100825182729-558341275.jpeg)
Theres the 3D printed wall being glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100825182730-55835348.jpeg)
With the main structure assembled, but no roof in place yet, I was able to spot an obvious light leak at the base of the store front. To fix that I cut a length of strip wood and glued it to the inside of the front wall, at the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100825182831-558361484.jpeg)
Then I added the sections of the structure that sit off both sides of the main structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100825182832-55837546.jpeg)
Something else the instructions failed to show/mention is the base of the side structure on the left hand side is made up of two pieces that get glued together to form the long, skinny base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100825182833-5583841.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;)
When I painted the doors, windows, trim, etc. the trim color I should have also painted the edge of the cardboard roof pieces with the same trim color. I forgot so I did that next.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100825182834-558392307.jpeg)
I added 3M Transfer Tape to the top of the roof cards. This'll be used to affix the roofing paper.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100825182835-5584085.jpeg)
Well, I realized I had another pieced missing from the kit. When I checked at the beginning of the build, I had doors and windows for all the openings in the walls. Or so I thought. I forget about the roof top access. So, I dug out the handy Tichy Train Group 200-piece Window and Door assortment and found a door that do the job. Now I have another part to paint, weather, dry-brush, etc. :(
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100825182908-55841295.jpeg)
Back to the roofs. Peeling away the backing of the 3M Transfer Tape leaves a sticky film on the surface of the roof card. I forgot to take pictures but it's simply placing the roofing paper (I had leftovers from prior builds already painted so I opted to use those) in position on the roof, working from the bottom edge to the top and overlapping slightly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-100825182909-558421329.jpeg)
And that brings us up to date on this slow moving build.
Thanks for following along!
Great update Bob. And real fine modeling. Where did you get the glue bottle with the metal tip??
Jerry
Great update Bob. Very nice modeling. I look forward to seeing it at a SBG meeting.
Quote from: Jerry on August 11, 2025, 12:00:06 AMGreat update Bob. And real fine modeling. Where did you get the glue bottle with the metal tip??
Jerry
Thanks, Jerry! The glue bottles I got at JoAnne's Fabric, which is now defunct. I bet you can find them in Hobby Lobby, Michael's of some other craft shops. They were cheap and came in a four pack. :)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on August 11, 2025, 07:57:04 AMGreat update Bob. Very nice modeling. I look forward to seeing it at a SBG meeting.
Thank you, Curt! This one is taking longer than it should have but I'm getting there. ;)
Bob,
Moving right along on this one and it looks fantastic. Can't wait to see how you light the structure.
It will be some time before I get to mine. I have many layout projects to get upgraded and fixed.
I look forward to seeing this baby up close when you :get er done".
Tom