Probably about a year and a half ago, on the RRL Forum, I designed and built a Sawmill. Knowing how expensive the kit was from Sierra West I opted to design and build my own using SW machinery; although I never did finish the project.
Fast forward, a few weeks ago I was looking at it sitting on the shelf and decided it was high time to finish the project. That being said, I thought I would start a thread showing photos from the inception to present along with the a few changes I'll be making along the way.
I'll be showing a condensed version of the build so as not to bore you. Enough chattering let's get started, shall we?
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The first thing I did was to order lumber from Northeastern before getting started; this was the largest order I had ever ordered and happily I ended up using about 90% on the build.
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The actual length of the Mill is 25 inches and the width is 7 inches at the widest point. Also I decided to make it to sit at ground level as opposed to building it on piers. Using 3 sheets of graph paper I set to making the design to glue the lumber to; this is the largest structure I have ever built.
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Since most of the wood shown would be covered by flooring I opted just to color it with chalks and clear alcohol then added a coat of A&I. The floor joists are 4x10's and the supporting pieces underneath are 3x12's.
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This is the base covered in flooring which was grained with a wire brush, colored with chalks & clear alcohol then given a coat of A&I. I also did some basic weathering while the floor was empty. The hole in the floor, on the righthand side, was made purposely for a pulley on one of the machines.
We'll end here for now. The next installment I'll show the machines used and explain a little about them. So follow along on my progress as I review the previous parts of the build and finish the project altogether. Stay tuned.
I know from experience taking a shelf orphan large project and striving to complete it.... So I'll be following along and watching how you identify and solve problems.
But with that floor, you're up to a good start.
dave
Thanks Dave and happy to have you following along. Yes there are a few minor changes I want to make but nothing too drastic. Looking at it sitting on the shelf the past couple of weeks I thought I would get
at it and try and finish it both as a break from my On18 layout and also while I wait for my new Tie Mill kit to arrive from Sierra West.
Larry,
Great idea to scratch build a kit that is expensive. Great start and I'll be on the front row. I already have my Diet Pepsi.
Tom
Tom thanks and glad to have you coming along. After looking at Brett's price for the Mill it was way more then I wanted to spend and since he sold the 3D printed parts for the machines, and I supply the wood, it seemed like a great alternative.
I'll be following along with great interest, Larry.
There are not many threads on the twin mills kit with a blow by blow look. I'll also be interested to see the changes you make. I've just started thinking about my own mill as I have been laying track into the mountain town where it is situated. I managed to pick up an O-scale kit for a very cheap price a while back which came with 150 lengths of 1x10". I've been ripping these in half to make 2x10's in HO scale. It should be enough for all the cladding and decking.
Cheers, Mark.
Larry, I remember this project on the RR-Line.
I'll be here to watch you finish it.
Howdy Larry,
That's an exciting build. Congrats on having the courage to build a shelf queen that is nothing more than a 2X4 and a razor blade. ;) I'll be following along. Fun!
Have fun,
mike
Larry,
This undertaking is a gigantic project for sure.
I'm glad you can muster up the courage to tackle such a large build.
I wanted to make a model similar, so I assume since this is O scale,
that my HO scale model would be about half the size as yours?
I will be following along.
Rich
Mark nice to have you follow along so pull up a seat. It's great you were able to pickup a cheap kit and I would think 300 2x10's would be enough for HO scale.
Rick thanks for following along. I figured if I was going to finish the Mill I may as well start from the beginning; nothing worse than walking into a movie when it's half over.
Mike thanks for coming along; it's time to "geeter done".
Rich welcome and thanks for joining in. Yes mine is O scale and I would think HO would be about half the size; give to take.
Following Larry! Isn't that floor techique called a mud sill?
Philip thanks for following along and your support. To answer your question; could be but I'm not sure. I'm not a fan of mills being on piers; to me it looks weird.
Long ago mud sills were place directly on the dirt or on rock, hence the name after the structure settled.
Larry I remember this to back on RR line. At least you have a good start. I'll be following along on your adventure!!
Jerry
Hello Larry, that's a lot of strip wood for sure. I'm looking forward to this build. Sawmills are great.
Philip thanks for the explanation; I hadn't heard that term before.
Jerry happy to have you tagging along; a little dejavu.
Jeff thanks for following along and yes Saw Mills rock.
Love a good sawmill...I'm here for it!
John
John nice to having you tagging along; enjoy.
Now for the condensed version of the machines for the Mill. All of the machines are from Sierra West; he supplies the detail parts and you supply the wood, rods, and any brass strips needed for the build. Going to Brett's website you can download the instructions for each machine that gives you a full list of what you'll need. I actually downloaded all the instructions at once BEFORE I ordered the wood. One word of caution, try to buy brass rod; I couldn't locate any locally so I purchased piano wire which is nasty stuff to cut.
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These are the 'dead rollers' which also includes the cutoff saw but more on that later. This uses a combination of 12x12's, 4x10's, 4x12's, 3x10's, 4x6's, and 2x4's all of which were grained, colored with chalks & clear alcohol then given a coat of A&I. The rollers were white metal and given a bath of 'blacken' then buffed with a dermal tool.
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Next are the 'live rollers' which was a little trickier but again the instructions made it somewhat easier. This used about the same lumber so the 2 machines would be the same height; the wood and metal parts were given the same treatment as the previous machine. At the right end the protruding rod will receive a pulley to make it 'live'.
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The 2 machines together are quite long so you can see why the Saw Mill deck is so long. Following the instructions the cutoff saw, which is between both roller machines, was to get suspended from the rafters. Borrowing an idea from another modeler I scratch built a unit to hold the saw and NOT be dependent on the rafters.
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Speaking of saws, this is the single blade 'husk saw' used to rip the logs into manageable lengths. Again I supplied the wood, rods, and NBW's with the other parts included in the small kit. The wood and detail parts were treated as the previous machines. All the belts for the Mill were cut from Tyvek, a free USPS envelope, cut into the required width strips then painted with raw Sienna craft paint.
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This photo will give you and idea just how small and detailed the 'husk saw' really is showing the pulleys and belts underneath.
We'll end it here for this post and next time I'll show you the last 3 machines that go with the Mill. Thanks for following along leaving your comments. Any questions please don't hesitate to ask. Stay tuned.
Wow, Larry. Those machines look great. I've ruined more than one pair of side cutters on piano wire, but it stays oh so straight. Have fun, mike
Really nice start. I agree with Mike, the piano wire is tough, but it does stay straight. Will be watching your progress with great interest. Mark
Mike thanks and yes the piano wire does stay straight I just wish it wasn't such a bear to cut.
Mark thank you so much; nice to have you following along on this build.
Larry, that all looks good.
Have you tried using your Dremel and a cutting wheel (Small flat black disc)?
That's what I used and it worked well.
I think we also talked about the saw blade on RR-line and it should be shiny from daily use.
You might have already done that.
Larry the machinery looks excellent.
Rick is right use a Dremel to cut the wire.
Jerry
Rick thanks. No I haven't tried the Dremel but I'll have to try it out. I'm sure we did have the conversation about the husk blade but I don't recall it; that's nothing new and no I never did change the color. Since the posts are a recap of what's already been done, I'll add it to my todo list for the Mill which I'm working on while I'm bringing everyone up to speed.
Jerry thank you so much; they were fun to make.
I don't remember this gem! 8)
Philip thanks. Actually I started it about May 2024; I think. Looks like you won't get bored then with the build recap then.Lol.
Nice! Again... ;) like I remember?
Karl thanks. I'm right there with you; I can't remember what I had for dinner three nights ago.
Old Age? naw!! Just a case of CRS; translated "can't remember sh*t. Lol.
Larry, one tip on using the Dremel to cut the piano wire.
Don't use any pressure.
Have the Dremel run at a high speed and just rest it on the wire and it will cut it like it's hot butter.
Rick thanks for the clarification on the Dremel cutting the wire; I'll certainly remember that for the future.
Hello Larry, great work on the machines. I hope that the finished product will be open so that all of that detail will be fully visible. Outstanding modeling.
Jeff thank you so much for the nice compliments. I've been contemplating if I want to do a roof or not; maybe a shed style?
Let's try this again. I had the post half written when it went into never-never-land for some reason. The last of the machines for the Mill are as follows:
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First up is the log carriage. This was built using 6x10's, 6x8's, 6x6's, 2x10's, and assorted wire sizes. There were 3 different sizes to choose from so I went with the middle size, 16x40 inch. All the wood was treated as previously. The details are 3D printed parts which were spray painted flat black then weathered.
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This item I decided to scratch build. Now the carriage needed something to ride along. I didn't want to use rail so I went with a different option. Used a combination of 8x8's, 4x10's, 2x10's, piano wire, heavy thread, and parts for the parts box. For the near run I used 2 2x10's creating a channel for the sooth wheels to ride in. The outside used the piano wire for the flanged wheels. The pulling mechanism is made with colored heavy thread and misc. item from the parts box.
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Setting all the machines in place I wanted to see how things would line up. I then realized that the single bladed husk saw was only high enough to cut halfway through the height of the log on the carriage. While probably not prototypical I decided to elevate the saw to the proper height. After some planning and head scratching I came up with a beefy looking platform, steps, and railings; after all safety first. Now the saw could cut through the entire log in one pass.
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The next machine is a edger to finish off the raw wood into useable lumber. This used 6x12's, 8x8's, 10x6's, 2x4's, wire, and Tyvek for the belts. The details were white metal blackened then buffed. This one was a little tricky getting everything the same height and look like a single unit.
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The last machine is the log turner that goes with the carriage unit. For a small machine this one gave me fits as far as how to add it to the framework of the Mill. First I went on top of the uprights and that didn't work so next I went with something to hang below and so the operator could reach the control lever. The wood was 8x8's and 4x10's with the details being 3D printed parts stayed flat back then lightly weathered.
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This is the way the machines will be sit in the Mill. I started the framework from the back working forward. Since the length is an actual 25 inches I knew I wanted something strong so opted to go with 8x8's for all the framing. I'll end this here and will pick it back up next time with more on the framing. Thanks for all your comments and/or suggestion so stay tuned.
Larry, that looks very good.
Looking good Larry.
Jerry
Rick and Jerry thank you, much appreciated.
Hooah!
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;D
Larry,
That's a smart way to frame this building for detail placement and the machines too.
Easy to get your hands in and out of the way for working on this. Looking good.
Rich
Rich thanks and glad you stopped by. Before I started the framing I looked at the machine placement; this approach just made the most sense; I'm all about easy.
Philip that looks like a rocket launcher; I don't think that would work in a Saw Mill. Lol.
Wow Larry,
The machines look fantastic. The layout focuses attention on the machines doing the work and not covered by walls. Persist!
Have fun,
mike
Mike thanks so much. The walls end up left open since the machines, pulleys, and belts are the stars of the show.
Larry, see this post where I talk about tools used by orthodontists to cut wire: https://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=7040.165
dave
Hello Larry, your sawmill is looking fantastic ! What a great job you are doing. The overall level of detail is next level modeling. I think that you get the idea that I like it.
Thanks Dave, I'll check it out.
Jeff thank you so much for your kind comments and glad you like it.
Now onto the framing:
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As mentioned before all the framing is made from 8x8's grained and colored with clear alcohol and chalks. This is the basic framework which required a lot of careful measuring, fitting, sanding, glueing, and a few choice words shown in. All in all I was pretty happy with the results.
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The idea was to have a small "shop area" which are the only walls in the Mill. Continued on with 8x8's for the framing to keep things consistent so they would fit well. Also added a couple of Grand Line windows painted black. The bench is scratch built using 6x6's for the frame and 2x10's for the top weathered. Added some details around and under the bench with are mostly from SW.
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Also I wanted a "blade sharpening" area which was scratch built was well. Added a couple of belts, saw blades, and a poster on the wall. Now I just to need to find a company that makes files to add by the blade; any suggestions would be appreciated.
With all that done it was time to move onto the pulley and belts:
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I did order a pulley set from Sierra West because I like the beefy look. Looking over his directions I soon realized following that was not possible so I came up with my own plan. There are 4 separate belt lines and I knew some would have to go over others to fit properly. Also the hangers provided wouldn't allow me to achieve what I was looking for. The solution was to use a longer hanger for part of the lines and use some provided to go over those.
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Here's the other end of the Mill with the husk saw area.
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This is looking down from the shop area. Lots of pulley's and belts which were made from Tyvek painted with Raw Sienna craft paint. Time to post; I'll pick this back up after.
Back again:
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This shows a set of beveled gears I used to switch lines from one to another; these were rather large.
We'll end this here and the next installment will be the steam engine and boiler. Thanks for stopping by and for your great comments and/or suggestions so stay tuned.
You'll want a vise on your workbench. That's needed to do the belt splicer/coupling. Here's a video on belt repair: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s70_4OEQCXk
dave