This is my build of Shakey's Pool Hall (https://fosscalemodels.com/collections/ho-scale-kits/products/shakeys-pool-hall-ho-scale-kit) from FOS Scale Models. If you've followed along on any of my previous builds don't expect too much, if anything, to be different. :(
The kit came packaged in a plastic clam shell case.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110028-56112732.jpeg)
The contents were the usual assortment of goodies. I'll note that this kit came out in 2016, before 3D printed details were a thing (or at least before FOS included them in their kits).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110028-56113235.jpeg)
I began by removing the plastic parts from their sprues using a sprue cutter (for most).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110029-561141239.jpeg)
A few quick swipes with an emery board took care of any nubs left by the sprue cutter.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110029-56115976.jpeg)
The 55-gallon oil drums have a very thick sprue which my sprue cutter can't handle. To remove these, I use an old pair of flush cut rail nippers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110029-56116196.jpeg)
The metal detail castings I cleaned up with a small file. They didn't require too much clean up.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110127-56117932.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;)
Looking forward to the build Bob!!
Jerry
The walls were removed from the sheets they were cut from using a single edged razor blade. I should note that, anytime I start a new build I break out a new razor blade and put a new #11 blade in my X-Acto knife. Bigger kits might require replacing the blades once or twice during the build but with kits the size of this one I can usually get through the entire build with the initial set.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110127-56118576.jpeg)
I ran the edges of the walls over an emery board to remove any nubs left from cutting them out and to square the edge as well. The laser leaves a cut that isn't quite 90 degrees.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110127-561191775.jpeg)
Everything was cut out and cleaned up in preparation for painting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110128-561201478.jpeg)
Prior to painting, I took the foundation and decided to open it up a bit. I guesstimated what I could remove based on the inset of the front entry way (those two small pieces to the right of my fingers are the steps into the entry way.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110128-56121265.jpeg)
After marking the foundation, I cut along the lines I drew to open it up. This is a soft material and easy to cut with a sharp blade. This will give me some room to work when I add lighting at the end of the build. 8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110247-561221128.jpeg)
(Not shown) I identified the parts I wanted to prime and then attached them to an old baking sheet using painters' tape that was taped upside down on the baking sheet. Then I sprayed them with a rattle can tan color. While the paint was drying on those parts, I moved on to bracing the walls. I took the 1/8" square strip wood and ran a bead of glue (Canopy Glue) roughly the height of the wall I was going to brace.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110247-561231186.jpeg)
More in a moment (or two)... ;D
Quote from: Jerry on October 07, 2025, 12:43:09 PMLooking forward to the build Bob!!
Jerry
Thanks, Jerry! I'll try to get this one done a little faster than my last build. The Gunsmith took me all summer for some reason. ::)
The messy part is spreading that bead of glue over the bracing. I just used a fingertip for this. After doing so, and before I handle anything else, I wipe the glue from my fingertip.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110248-56124175.jpeg)
Then I position the bracing on the back of the wall. In this case, the bracing ran along an edge, so I wanted to make sure it was even with the edge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110248-56125638.jpeg)
After the glue takes hold (only a few minutes), I trimmed the excess strip wood using the single edged razor blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110248-5612667.jpeg)
I stained all of the remaining strip wood (except for the left over 1/8" square pieces) with Hunterline Light Gray Weathering mix.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110633-561272286.jpeg)
I painted the inside of the walls with a black, craft store acrylic. This will keep the walls from 'glowing' when the lighting is on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110634-56128373.jpeg)
Then the front of the walls was hit with the same Hunterline Light Gray weathering mix I used on the strip wood.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110634-561292235.jpeg)
To be continued... :)
I started painting the detail parts. No rhyme or reason to the way I did these. I just grabbed part and found the color, or colors, I wanted to use and had at it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110634-561301151.jpeg)
I found the strip wood I'd need for the trim pieces and painted it with, in this case, Folk Art Matte Forest Moss. I did set aside a piece of the wider strip wood (I think it's 1/16" x 1/4") that's to be painted a different color (for the storefront). I used a make-up sponge for this (the cheapest paint "brush" you'll probably find). I found the make-up sponges at Target. I forget how many there are in a pack but it's more than enough for not too much $.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110635-56131881.jpeg)
I did the doors and windows (except for the store front as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110734-561321112.jpeg)
As well as the underside and edge of the cardstock roof cards.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110734-561331202.jpeg)
There are a lot of corbels/brackets that need to be painted and they're rather small. I stuck them to a piece of painter's tape, painted one side, waited for the paint to dry, then flipped the over and did the other side the same way.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110734-561341510.jpeg)
Before I moved on to the next color, I marked a piece of the wider strip wood exact length I'd need it to be.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110735-561352391.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;)
I cut the wider piece of strip wood using a Chopper so I'd get nice, square, clean cuts. The ends need to be painted on this piece. That's way I'm going through all this prior to painting it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110735-56136245.jpeg)
Using my make up sponge, I applied Folk Art Matte Pale Gray to the parts that will make up the store front.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110804-561371289.jpeg)
For the walls I used the make-up sponge and Creamcoat Oyster White. The instructions indicate the walls on the pilot model were painted Light Grey. I decided to go white for the walls instead.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110805-561381698.jpeg)
And that's kind of where I'm at now. Next up will be weathering the walls and other things (doors, windows, etc.).
Thanks for following along!
You're flying along, Bob!
It looks like a neat kit. I don't believe I have seen this one before. Enjoying your very comprehensive thread. A nice read while eating my breakfast this morning.
Cheers, Mark.
Great progress Bob, of course I'll be following.
Great work Bob, you are definitely in the "Zone".
Amazing on fast your moving along on this!!
As usual your great tutorial to go along with the pictures.
Jerry
Howdy Bob,
Nice work on the kit. The chronicle was enjoyable to read, and I'm looking forward to the build.
Have fun,
mike
Bob,
Another build underway. I've run out of words to describe your talent in structure building.
So, I'll just say fantastic!
Tom
Tom took the words right out of my mouth...great build Bob
terry
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on October 07, 2025, 02:34:10 PMYou're flying along, Bob!
It looks like a neat kit. I don't believe I have seen this one before. Enjoying your very comprehensive thread. A nice read while eating my breakfast this morning.
Cheers, Mark.
Thank you, Mark! Glad you're enjoying it and following along. This is another gem from FOS. ;)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on October 07, 2025, 05:00:05 PMGreat progress Bob, of course I'll be following.
Glad to have you following along, Curt! ;D
Quote from: GaryMc on October 07, 2025, 05:38:40 PMGreat work Bob, you are definitely in the "Zone".
Thanks, Gary! I hope I can stay in that "Zone" for a bit. :)
I've never used a make-up sponge to paint castings. I'll have to try that on my next project.
dave
Quote from: Jerry on October 07, 2025, 11:35:08 PMAmazing on fast your moving along on this!!
As usual your great tutorial to go along with the pictures.
Jerry
Thanks, Jerry! I really appreciate any and all feedback. :D
Quote from: friscomike on October 08, 2025, 08:34:13 AMHowdy Bob,
Nice work on the kit. The chronicle was enjoyable to read, and I'm looking forward to the build.
Have fun,
mike
Thanks for the kind words, Mike! They are very much appreciated. :)
Quote from: ACL1504 on October 08, 2025, 01:58:50 PMBob,
Another build underway. I've run out of words to describe your talent in structure building.
So, I'll just say fantastic!
Tom
Thanks, Tom! Another interesting kit from FOS. I don't know how Doug does it. ;D
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on October 08, 2025, 02:05:30 PMTom took the words right out of my mouth...great build Bob
terry
Thanks, Terry! I hope all is well with you. It's been a while :) since we've seen each other.
Quote from: deemery on October 08, 2025, 06:07:31 PMI've never used a make-up sponge to paint castings. I'll have to try that on my next project.
dave
For most of the detail castings I use brushes although I do use the sponges to create some rust effects on the vents, 55-gallon drums, garbage cans, etc. I find that dabbing them with a craft store acrylic Burnt Sienna and having the sponge nearly dry works very well.
Glad to have you following along, Dave! :D
Great stuff! 8)
Quote from: Philip on October 10, 2025, 09:53:41 AMGreat stuff! 8)
Thanks, Philip! Glad to have you on board. ;)