This is my build of Shakey's Pool Hall (https://fosscalemodels.com/collections/ho-scale-kits/products/shakeys-pool-hall-ho-scale-kit) from FOS Scale Models. If you've followed along on any of my previous builds don't expect too much, if anything, to be different. :(
The kit came packaged in a plastic clam shell case.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110028-56112732.jpeg)
The contents were the usual assortment of goodies. I'll note that this kit came out in 2016, before 3D printed details were a thing (or at least before FOS included them in their kits).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110028-56113235.jpeg)
I began by removing the plastic parts from their sprues using a sprue cutter (for most).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110029-561141239.jpeg)
A few quick swipes with an emery board took care of any nubs left by the sprue cutter.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110029-56115976.jpeg)
The 55-gallon oil drums have a very thick sprue which my sprue cutter can't handle. To remove these, I use an old pair of flush cut rail nippers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110029-56116196.jpeg)
The metal detail castings I cleaned up with a small file. They didn't require too much clean up.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110127-56117932.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;)
Looking forward to the build Bob!!
Jerry
The walls were removed from the sheets they were cut from using a single edged razor blade. I should note that, anytime I start a new build I break out a new razor blade and put a new #11 blade in my X-Acto knife. Bigger kits might require replacing the blades once or twice during the build but with kits the size of this one I can usually get through the entire build with the initial set.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110127-56118576.jpeg)
I ran the edges of the walls over an emery board to remove any nubs left from cutting them out and to square the edge as well. The laser leaves a cut that isn't quite 90 degrees.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110127-561191775.jpeg)
Everything was cut out and cleaned up in preparation for painting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110128-561201478.jpeg)
Prior to painting, I took the foundation and decided to open it up a bit. I guesstimated what I could remove based on the inset of the front entry way (those two small pieces to the right of my fingers are the steps into the entry way.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110128-56121265.jpeg)
After marking the foundation, I cut along the lines I drew to open it up. This is a soft material and easy to cut with a sharp blade. This will give me some room to work when I add lighting at the end of the build. 8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110247-561221128.jpeg)
(Not shown) I identified the parts I wanted to prime and then attached them to an old baking sheet using painters' tape that was taped upside down on the baking sheet. Then I sprayed them with a rattle can tan color. While the paint was drying on those parts, I moved on to bracing the walls. I took the 1/8" square strip wood and ran a bead of glue (Canopy Glue) roughly the height of the wall I was going to brace.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110247-561231186.jpeg)
More in a moment (or two)... ;D
Quote from: Jerry on October 07, 2025, 12:43:09 PMLooking forward to the build Bob!!
Jerry
Thanks, Jerry! I'll try to get this one done a little faster than my last build. The Gunsmith took me all summer for some reason. ::)
The messy part is spreading that bead of glue over the bracing. I just used a fingertip for this. After doing so, and before I handle anything else, I wipe the glue from my fingertip.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110248-56124175.jpeg)
Then I position the bracing on the back of the wall. In this case, the bracing ran along an edge, so I wanted to make sure it was even with the edge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110248-56125638.jpeg)
After the glue takes hold (only a few minutes), I trimmed the excess strip wood using the single edged razor blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110248-5612667.jpeg)
I stained all of the remaining strip wood (except for the left over 1/8" square pieces) with Hunterline Light Gray Weathering mix.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110633-561272286.jpeg)
I painted the inside of the walls with a black, craft store acrylic. This will keep the walls from 'glowing' when the lighting is on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110634-56128373.jpeg)
Then the front of the walls was hit with the same Hunterline Light Gray weathering mix I used on the strip wood.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110634-561292235.jpeg)
To be continued... :)
I started painting the detail parts. No rhyme or reason to the way I did these. I just grabbed part and found the color, or colors, I wanted to use and had at it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110634-561301151.jpeg)
I found the strip wood I'd need for the trim pieces and painted it with, in this case, Folk Art Matte Forest Moss. I did set aside a piece of the wider strip wood (I think it's 1/16" x 1/4") that's to be painted a different color (for the storefront). I used a make-up sponge for this (the cheapest paint "brush" you'll probably find). I found the make-up sponges at Target. I forget how many there are in a pack but it's more than enough for not too much $.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110635-56131881.jpeg)
I did the doors and windows (except for the store front as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110734-561321112.jpeg)
As well as the underside and edge of the cardstock roof cards.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110734-561331202.jpeg)
There are a lot of corbels/brackets that need to be painted and they're rather small. I stuck them to a piece of painter's tape, painted one side, waited for the paint to dry, then flipped the over and did the other side the same way.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110734-561341510.jpeg)
Before I moved on to the next color, I marked a piece of the wider strip wood exact length I'd need it to be.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110735-561352391.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;)
I cut the wider piece of strip wood using a Chopper so I'd get nice, square, clean cuts. The ends need to be painted on this piece. That's way I'm going through all this prior to painting it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110735-56136245.jpeg)
Using my make up sponge, I applied Folk Art Matte Pale Gray to the parts that will make up the store front.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110804-561371289.jpeg)
For the walls I used the make-up sponge and Creamcoat Oyster White. The instructions indicate the walls on the pilot model were painted Light Grey. I decided to go white for the walls instead.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-061025110805-561381698.jpeg)
And that's kind of where I'm at now. Next up will be weathering the walls and other things (doors, windows, etc.).
Thanks for following along!
You're flying along, Bob!
It looks like a neat kit. I don't believe I have seen this one before. Enjoying your very comprehensive thread. A nice read while eating my breakfast this morning.
Cheers, Mark.
Great progress Bob, of course I'll be following.
Great work Bob, you are definitely in the "Zone".
Amazing on fast your moving along on this!!
As usual your great tutorial to go along with the pictures.
Jerry
Howdy Bob,
Nice work on the kit. The chronicle was enjoyable to read, and I'm looking forward to the build.
Have fun,
mike
Bob,
Another build underway. I've run out of words to describe your talent in structure building.
So, I'll just say fantastic!
Tom
Tom took the words right out of my mouth...great build Bob
terry
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on October 07, 2025, 02:34:10 PMYou're flying along, Bob!
It looks like a neat kit. I don't believe I have seen this one before. Enjoying your very comprehensive thread. A nice read while eating my breakfast this morning.
Cheers, Mark.
Thank you, Mark! Glad you're enjoying it and following along. This is another gem from FOS. ;)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on October 07, 2025, 05:00:05 PMGreat progress Bob, of course I'll be following.
Glad to have you following along, Curt! ;D
Quote from: GaryMc on October 07, 2025, 05:38:40 PMGreat work Bob, you are definitely in the "Zone".
Thanks, Gary! I hope I can stay in that "Zone" for a bit. :)
I've never used a make-up sponge to paint castings. I'll have to try that on my next project.
dave
Quote from: Jerry on October 07, 2025, 11:35:08 PMAmazing on fast your moving along on this!!
As usual your great tutorial to go along with the pictures.
Jerry
Thanks, Jerry! I really appreciate any and all feedback. :D
Quote from: friscomike on October 08, 2025, 08:34:13 AMHowdy Bob,
Nice work on the kit. The chronicle was enjoyable to read, and I'm looking forward to the build.
Have fun,
mike
Thanks for the kind words, Mike! They are very much appreciated. :)
Quote from: ACL1504 on October 08, 2025, 01:58:50 PMBob,
Another build underway. I've run out of words to describe your talent in structure building.
So, I'll just say fantastic!
Tom
Thanks, Tom! Another interesting kit from FOS. I don't know how Doug does it. ;D
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on October 08, 2025, 02:05:30 PMTom took the words right out of my mouth...great build Bob
terry
Thanks, Terry! I hope all is well with you. It's been a while :) since we've seen each other.
Quote from: deemery on October 08, 2025, 06:07:31 PMI've never used a make-up sponge to paint castings. I'll have to try that on my next project.
dave
For most of the detail castings I use brushes although I do use the sponges to create some rust effects on the vents, 55-gallon drums, garbage cans, etc. I find that dabbing them with a craft store acrylic Burnt Sienna and having the sponge nearly dry works very well.
Glad to have you following along, Dave! :D
Great stuff! 8)
Quote from: Philip on October 10, 2025, 09:53:41 AMGreat stuff! 8)
Thanks, Philip! Glad to have you on board. ;)
Let me bring you up to date on this build.
I painted the sidewalk/foundation using a sponge and Folk Art Terra Cotta Cool Concrete. This is just the first layer of color. I'll either use washes, Pan Pastels or weathering powders to alter the color and give it some depth. I haven't done that yet. The only problem with washes is the material these are cut from tends to absorb water, so I have to be a bit careful if opt to go that route.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125124811-56215533.jpeg)
Continuing with the painting/weather the next step was to "dry sponge" the walls and trim pieces with Folk Art Matte Dove Gray. By dry sponge I mean I don't want to paint the walls. I tap the sponge in the paint and then remove most of the paint so when I tap it against the wall or trim pieces it only leaves a little bit of paint. This is supposed to represent places where the top layer of paint peeled off and exposed the underlying primer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125124811-56216172.jpeg)
I do the same for the windows and doors.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125124812-562171024.jpeg)
Then I repeat the process with Americana Khaki. This is supposed to represent spots where the paint peeled away completely and exposed the wood.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125124812-562181774.jpeg)
Again, I do this for the walls, trim pieces, doors and windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125124812-562192475.jpeg)
I add nail holes using a steel square and a ponce wheel. The rows are adjacent to door or window openings, the ends and/or at scale two-foot intervals where there are no openings. If the space between, say, the end and the first row next to a window is and odd number like 9 (scale) feet, I fudge things a bit and center the ruler between the openings so the difference is split between both ends. Close enough!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125124908-562202221.jpeg)
More in a moment... :D
As mentioned in the last post I mark where the rows are going to go using a scale ruler and do that at two-foot intervals. To mark the wall, I simply create a little hole using this pointy tool I use for various things.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125124908-56221626.jpeg)
If I want the building to look really old and not very well maintained, I'll lift some clapboards up by sliding a chisel blade in an X-Acto handle underneath them to lift them. Sometimes I'll give it a little twist to crack the clapboard, and I may even remove a chunk entirely. I avoid sections of the wall where I'm planning on adding a sign that I want to appear painted on. If there's a section of wall that be covered up by an extension, or add on, that's a great place to practice this technique.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125124908-562221669.jpeg)
Next, I dipped the doors and windows in my A&I solution to darken them up a little bit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125124908-562232001.jpeg)
I could have used the A&I on the walls and trim pieces, but I opted to use Hunterline Light Gray Weathering Mix instead. Among other things, this will darken any raw wood that may have been exposed when the lifting and breaking off chunks of clapboard siding.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125124909-5622498.jpeg)
I separated the window coverings from the signs and posters before the next step.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125125004-56225463.jpeg)
To make the signs and posters a little less 'bright' I painted the backside with my A&I mix. It'll soak through and darken them a bit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125125004-562261135.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;)
Earlier you mention the laser does not quite leave a 90* cut. That helps to explain a few issues with similar laser cut kits that I've worked with.
Ya never know what tidbit of info someone else will find helpful. I guess the lesson is never to assume something is and it should be.
Thanks
Dave Buchholz
Fifth Dave to the right
For advertisements that I want to appear painted on the clapboard siding I lightly sand the back of the sign to thin the paper as much as possible. I work from the center out.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125125004-562272265.jpeg)
Next, I mix some Elmers White Glue with water to thin it out a bit. Roughly a 50/50 mix but I don't measure it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125125005-56228525.jpeg)
I smear the thinned glue on the back of the sign with a finger. The paper, having been sanded, and the thinned glue soaking into the paper, make it pliable which is important for the next step.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125125005-562291088.jpeg)
I position the sign on the wall and then carefully run a fingernail along each clapboard to seat it. It's actually a little bit safer if you put a piece of clear plastic over it (like the kind that some of the parts are bagged in). That'll help prevent tearing the paper with a rough edge of a fingernail. I felt daring this time around and it worked out okay.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125125104-562301756.jpeg)
Next up I dry brushed pretty much everything with Ivory White. Even the white walls. This highlights the edges and brings out the detail.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125125104-56231417.jpeg)
For window glazing I prefer to use Microscale Industries Micro Kristal Klear. Canopy Glue works as well but I find Canopy Glue has more of a tendency to capture air bubbles. I spread a thin layer, over the back of the opening, using my little pointy tool. :) Then I prop the window, door, whatever, up on some strip wood until the Kristal Klear dries and becomes clear.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125125104-562322420.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;D
Quote from: Dave Buchholz on November 03, 2025, 01:18:51 PMEarlier you mention the laser does not quite leave a 90* cut. That helps to explain a few issues with similar laser cut kits that I've worked with.
Ya never know what tidbit of info someone else will find helpful. I guess the lesson is never to assume something is and it should be.
Thanks
Dave Buchholz
Fifth Dave to the right
Yep! I learned that trick from Tom (ACL1504) so credit where credit is due! 8)
Last few pictures for today.
The four main walls are topped with a piece of 1/4" by 1/16" strip wood. I cut one end using a Northwest Short Lines Chopper to make sure it was nice and square and then place the wood at the top of the wall using an angle iron to make sure it lined up with the edge of the wall. I marked where the other cut needed to be made using a single edge razor place and then made the second cut using the chopper. Dang it if I didn't screw up one and cut it too short because I didn't line up my mark with the chopper correctly. >:( Thankfully there was enough strip wood leftover for a redo though I had to paint and weather that extra piece. But all is good now.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125125105-562331437.jpeg)
Finally, I glued all the doors and windows in place. I apply Canopy Glue to the inside of the opening and then press the door or window in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125125105-562341199.jpeg)
I have some paper that I painted a light green (tan works well too) to use for window blinds. I cut a strip slightly wider than the window openings and then started lopping of random lengths.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125125138-562351031.jpeg)
I glue these the back of the wall behind the window opening. They're drawn down most of the way because I don't have an interior for this structure and don't want the inside scene. I just try to make sure they aren't exactly the same. That would look a little odd, in my opinion.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-031125125139-56236601.jpeg)
That's where I'm currently at on this one. The next step is to glue the walls together. That's when things really start to take shape!
Thanks for following along!
Great how to Bob.
Bob the usual perfect tutorial.
That sign up above came out really nice.
Jerry
Quote from: PRR Modeler on November 03, 2025, 01:50:14 PMGreat how to Bob.
Thanks, Curt! I appreciate having you following along. :)
Quote from: Jerry on November 03, 2025, 03:30:00 PMBob the usual perfect tutorial.
That sign up above came out really nice.
Jerry
Thanks, Jerry! You might notice the effect that the final dry brushing had on it. It helps create the illusion that the sign was actually painted on when. At least I think it does. ;)
How are you taking the pictures? I'd someone else taking them, it are you using a camera with a timer set up across the table?
Quote from: Dave Buchholz on November 03, 2025, 05:45:45 PMHow are you taking the pictures? I'd someone else taking them, it are you using a camera with a timer set up across the table?
I have an old Sony Cyber shot on a small tripod on my workbench. I can set the timer by feel (the camera has buttons on the back). :)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-071016145947-167922056.jpeg)
That work bench actually looks clean compared to mine!IMG_20251103_193620512.jpg
Nice picture. That shirt is in really good shape for being 13 years old!! ;D
Jerry
Bob... in that pic you kinda look like Ted Cruz...anybody else see it?
terry
Quote from: Jerry on November 05, 2025, 12:11:04 PMNice picture. That shirt is in really good shape for being 13 years old!! ;D
Jerry
Nah, that's just an old picture I had uploaded years ago to answer the question of how I take my pictures. That shirt has long since been retired. ;D
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on November 05, 2025, 02:09:28 PMBob... in that pic you kinda look like Ted Cruz...anybody else see it?
terry
Ouch! That hurts. I've never been to Cancun. ;D
Okay, time for a quick update to this one.
I started gluing the walls together. Due to the nature of this particular set of walls it was easier to do this with the wall's upside down. You can see, in the picture, the bottom edge of this particular set of walls does not line up. The top edge, however, does.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221125104159-562971358.jpeg)
I start by making to L shapes with the walls and then glue the two L shapes together. Again, upside down. Trying my best to keep things square.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221125104159-562992168.jpeg)
Things are starting to get interesting now. The first-floor extension is not a rectangle. The end wall is much shorter than the depth of the building. It gets glued on, again keeping it square with the rear wall (but at least right side up this time).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221125104159-56300107.jpeg)
At this point I needed to assemble the store front. This is layers of laser cut parts and pilasters, etc.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221125104159-563012146.jpeg)
Hard to see in this picture but this is the assembly that makes up the inset entryway for the store front. Some steps, three doors that get glued to the steps and some brackets in the rear to hold things together. This went together pretty well. I expected to have to futz (the technical term) with it a lot more.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221125104200-563022198.jpeg)
And here's the completed entry way before blinds have been glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221125104253-56303924.jpeg)
More in a moment... :D
With the store front finished and glued in place it's time to add the final wall. Here I'm just holding it in place but it's obvious that each end of this wall will have to be beveled for a proper fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221125104253-563041289.jpeg)
My solution for beveling the ends of the walls involved an old NWSL True Sander and propping the wall up to get the correct angle. I had to check, then double check, to make sure I was beveling the edge the right way. One end of the wall gets beveled the opposite way as the other end.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221125104254-563052122.jpeg)
Next up was gluing the main roof card in place and getting it centered as best as I could. There are 'guides' cut into the bottom of this card, so I had to make sure I had it the oriented properly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221125104254-563061145.jpeg)
Then I added, using the 'guidelines' in the roof card the corbels. This is almost as tedious as adding rafter tails. ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221125104254-56307986.jpeg)
Next up was adding the roof support pieces. Just making sure things remain square.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221125104359-56308428.jpeg)
Next up was adding the cardstock roof. Prior to folding this and gluing it place I drew some lines down the center of each surface. I hope this helps me keep the cupolas centered when add them later.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221125104359-56309806.jpeg)
More in a moment... ;)
Before I glued the cardstock roof in place, I noticed the edge of the top of the main roof card would be exposed. I hadn't painted that. I painted the edge and the bottom but not the top. So, I broke out the paints and the sponge and took care of that.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221125104359-56310953.jpeg)
Taking a slight break from the roof, I assembled the four cupolas that will go on the main roof and small, second story, add on that will sit on the lower roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221125104359-563112446.jpeg)
For the lower roof I applied 3M Transfer Tape to the top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221125104400-563121441.jpeg)
The transfer tape was trimmed to fit, of course.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-221125104437-563131421.jpeg)
That's all for today.
Thanks for following along! ;D
Bob,
Another fantastic build and SBS as well. Very well done, again! 8)
Tom
Wonderful build. An like always a great tutorial for future reference.
Jerry
I agree with all of the others, this is a fine way to show all of your skills.
I wish I could remember to use my camera on a tripod instead of what I have been doing.
Perhaps I will give it a try. Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
Your building looks pretty good too! ;D
Rich
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 22, 2025, 11:18:07 AMBob,
Another fantastic build and SBS as well. Very well done, again! 8)
Tom
Thanks, Tom! It's an interesting kit from FOS.
Quote from: Jerry on November 22, 2025, 01:21:56 PMWonderful build. An like always a great tutorial for future reference.
Jerry
Thanks, Jerry! Glad to have you following along. :)
Quote from: Pennman on November 22, 2025, 01:52:48 PMI agree with all of the others, this is a fine way to show all of your skills.
I wish I could remember to use my camera on a tripod instead of what I have been doing.
Perhaps I will give it a try. Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
Your building looks pretty good too! ;D
Rich
Thank you, Rich! The old camera works well only because it has a few buttons on the back and I know which one to push, by feel, to set the delay for the shutter. The newer camera I have is completely touch screen on the back, so I'd have to look at it set the delay. Hopefully this old camera keeps on chugging along for quite some time. ;D
You are a real craftsman Bob. The build looks fantastic.
Howdy Bob,
That's really nice work on the kit and especially the walls. The color and shading make them look realistic. It fun to watch your informative builds.
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: PRR Modeler on November 23, 2025, 03:12:16 PMYou are a real craftsman Bob. The build looks fantastic.
Thanks, Curt! It's funny. Individually, to me anyway, the painted components don't look that good. After being assembled however, I find things blend together in a rather eye pleasing way. :)
Quote from: friscomike on November 23, 2025, 08:28:06 PMHowdy Bob,
That's really nice work on the kit and especially the walls. The color and shading make them look realistic. It fun to watch your informative builds.
Have fun,
mike
Thank you, Mike! I appreciate the comments and having you following along as well. ;)