The Modeler's Forum

Hello all,

My purpose for beginning this thread is to show how I scratchbuilt the Sierra West Morton's Brass & Iron Foundry.

First, a little history. I had no intention to scratchbuild the model, and like a lot of other modelers, I preordered the kit by reserving one. We all know that that dosen't guarantee you get a kit, nor is one shipped until you pay for it. That just puts you into a queue until you are sent an email requesting payment when your kit is ready to be shipped to you. I was informed that I was in the first run. Along about two months later, when a lot of other modelers had already been building their kits, and I was envious of them, was about the time I decided if my kit comes along, ok. But if not, then I am going to have one even if I must build one myself. So, that is how this evolved. We all know Brett is a busy businessman, so we cannot blame him totally, he's just overworked.

Since I decided to scratchbuild the diorama, I settled upon some changes as not to build it exactly as the pilot model. With that in mind, I had a plaster kit from Guts, Gravel, and Glory, Ertner's Feed & Grain in HO scale that would fit the bill. It wasn't exact and I had to slice & dice the kits walls, but I made it work.

I wanted to make my main stone building as close to the building in the kit as possible without making it an exact match. There were some openings in the kits walls, ie: doors, windows, and a couple of freight doors, and I cut up the rest of my walls to glue some together to make them longer. I also had to cut into my walls to make additional window openings where there weren't any and adjust their heights so one finished wall matched the height of the adjacent finished wall around the corner. I wasted nothing. There was a third peaked stone wall, that I used at the back of the front office. More on that later.

We all now know what the prize was that we are after when we build. It's really Brett's fault when you think about it, he makes such dam good looking kits!

Rich

Rich, it will be interesting to see what you've one on this build.

Hi Rick, and thanks for following me here.
It was interesting last night when I dug it out after not looking at it for seven years.
I was amazed that I could actually find all of the parts I made since it never was displayed
as a full blown diorama. It's time to get this done.

Rich

Quote from: Pennman on October 26, 2025, 01:03:03 AMHello all,

My purpose for beginning this thread is to show how I scratchbuilt the Sierra West Morton's Brass & Iron Foundry.

First, a little history. I had no intention to scratchbuild the model, and like a lot of other modelers, I preordered the kit by reserving one. We all know that that dosen't guarantee you get a kit, nor is one shipped until you pay for it. That just puts you into a queue until you are sent an email requesting payment when your kit is ready to be shipped to you. I was informed that I was in the first run. Along about two months later, when a lot of other modelers had already been building their kits, and I was envious of them, was about the time I decided if my kit comes along, ok. But if not, then I am going to have one even if I must build one myself. So, that is how this evolved. We all know Brett is a busy businessman, so we cannot blame him totally, he's just overworked.

Since I decided to scratchbuild the diorama, I settled upon some changes as not to build it exactly as the pilot model. With that in mind, I had a plaster kit from Guts, Gravel, and Glory, Ertner's Feed & Grain in HO scale that would fit the bill. It wasn't exact and I had to slice & dice the kits walls, but I made it work.

I wanted to make my main stone building as close to the building in the kit as possible without making it an exact match. There were some openings in the kits walls, ie: doors, windows, and a couple of freight doors, and I cut up the rest of my walls to glue some together to make them longer. I also had to cut into my walls to make additional window openings where there weren't any and adjust their heights so one finished wall matched the height of the adjacent finished wall around the corner. I wasted nothing. There was a third peaked stone wall, that I used at the back of the front office. More on that later.

We all now know what the prize was that we are after when we build. It's really Brett's fault when you think about it, he makes such dam good looking kits!

Rich

Hey Rich,

I've got my Yuengling beer and a front seat. I'll be following along to watch you do your magic.

Bernd

Rich, Looking forward to see what you have done.

Well look who has shown up with a new build!!

I'll be following along for sure Rich.
I've seen your other builds and there's a lot to be learned in following along with your build.

Jerry

Rich nice to see you building once again and I'll be following along. Actually the way you're going about the build, to me, seems like it's going to be a lot more fun than just building a kit; IMHO.

Thanks for following along Gary and Jerry.
I'll look for more pictures as mentioned at the beginning, but will probably spend
another day taking some close-up pictures to explain my method of destruction.

The following (2) pictures show what was in the Guts, Gravel and Glory kit, for walls.
The peaked wall with the round window has a bricked-up door opening, just like the one wall in the Sierra West kit. I used that wall for an end of my building. There were two hydrocal docks, one was a ramp. I cut a piece from the shorter, square-ended one to use for a door stoop at the other end of my building. I also used the long ramp. As you can see in the pictures, there were three (3) peaked walls. One for each end of my new building, and one extra. I cut down the height of the extra wall and used that as the back wall to the new office. So, my new office has three (3) walls that are clapboard and one wall of stone, at the back, and it has a freight door opening.

I'll be updating this again later today. Thanks for your kind comments and for following.

Rich

Quote from: Larry C on October 26, 2025, 11:12:24 AMRich nice to see you building once again and I'll be following along. Actually the way you're going about the build, to me, seems like it's going to be a lot more fun than just building a kit; IMHO.

Thank you, Larry, glad to have you along for the ride.
I'm still in awe following you on your sawmill. It is mind-boggling to me
having to hook-up all of those machines with their belting. As I am
not experienced in that part of this hobby.

Rich

Rich you're welcome; this should be an interesting build. Thanks for the compliment.

Hey Rich ! Following along.

Nice looking plaster castings~

Philip

Thanks again Larry, get those details painted!

Glad to have ya Phillip. Hope I can keep you interested.

Rich

Hello fellow modelers,

I mentioned at the beginning that I haven't found many pictures when I began construction. Sorry about that.
Usually I save them to a flash drive when I am building something, but after checking for several days, they
are somewhere in cyberspace. Although most of you already know how to accomplish the feat well, it's still
nice to be able to show that aspect. But, I can't.

Here's the only picture I found that shows my main stone building walls after chomping them up. If you zoom in close,
you will see some cracks in the walls that occurred when I was cutting out the window openings. Not a big
deal, just glued them back together. I use white Elmer's Extreme Glue for that purpose. The Tite Bond wood glues leave a yellow stain in the cracks and the white is more forgiving and hardly shows at all.

After those cracks in my walls were mended, I glued a thin layer of cardstock on the interior of each of the walls. I used 110 LB cardstock for that purpose. I most often now use the cardstock on the interior of all of my plaster walls to give it some extra strength. Usually I put it in before any stripwood is applied before interior studs. Also, because it is already brown in color, I don't have to paint it. The best part is, if you use Cranston paper cardstock, it never shows a cut-edge being white, wherever a cut is made. You make a slice, and the edges are still brown in color. No painting needed to touch up any edges. Less warpage this way.

OK, here's two pictures showing my main stone building after gluing the walls together. In these pictures, they have a light coat of Neutral Grey Extra Dark Pan Pastel chalk (820.2), on them. I wasn't really happy with leaving that to be the final color. Plus the fact that the hydrocal walls were never sealed. There has been much talk on many forums about this subject, so we won't go into detail here about it. If these walls are to be handled a lot before final diorama placement, then I would highly recommend to use a fixative on them, or the chalk will rub off. So far, I haven't done anything to them other than a light coat of acrylic paint. I do plan on going back over these walls with some other shades of light to dark brown colors, (maybe paints, chalks, or a combination of both) and perhaps some grays to enhance the look of good, aged, well-worn stones. What that would be more apt to be found in my locale.
Till the next time...
Thanks for looking.

Rich

Rich, well it looks like your already off to a great start!
I will also enjoy following along with you on this one.

Greg

Rich very nice work and the color looks really good. I use 110# paper in my modeling also; it's nice to see others use it as well.

Quote from: Ensign on October 26, 2025, 06:39:22 PMRich, well it looks like your already off to a great start!
I will also enjoy following along with you on this one.

Greg

Greg,
Thank you for the compliment. I am so happy to be back doing some modeling once again.
Those "honey-Do" jobs are killers! I do wish I had space enough for a layout, though. I
think it's much harder to do individual dioramas than having to scenic a wide-open space.
But if I keep these on a low plantain, then if I do get some space, I shouldn't have too
much of a problem blending them in side-by-side. We shall see perhaps one day.

Glad you will be following along.

Rich

Quote from: Larry C on October 26, 2025, 08:37:27 PMRich very nice work and the color looks really good. I use 110# paper in my modeling also; it's nice to see others use it as well.

Larry,

Thanks very much for the compliment. As I stated earlier, I still will color with some additional browns,
maybe light & dark to offset the grey tone. I want it to be more natural.
The "wallpaper" keep it together  ;D

Rich

Nice coloring on those walls Rich.  After a little weathering they'll be perrfect.

Hopefully honey do will be like a bear and take a long winters nap!!  ;D

Jerry

Quote from: Jerry on October 26, 2025, 09:35:03 PMNice coloring on those walls Rich.  After a little weathering they'll be perrfect.

Hopefully honey do will be like a bea and take a long winters nap!!  ;D

Jerry

Thank you for the nice compliments, Jerry. It is greatly appreciated.
Let's hope you are correct in your assumption. But, I highly doubt it! ::)

Rich

Following my old friend on another modeling adventure!

Quote from: Dave Buchholz on October 26, 2025, 10:49:17 PMFollowing my old friend on another modeling adventure!

Same to you, Dave. Glad to have you along.

Rich

Looks even better with the walls up!

Looking back on post #3, from p.1, "quote", by Bernd:

"Hey Rich,

I've got my Yuengling beer and a front seat. I'll be following along to watch you do your magic.

Bernd"

Well, I'm happy you got on board, my friend. You must be out of Yuengling by now.
I've stocked the fridge with a few more, so help yourself to another cold one.
I never meant to skip over ya, I probably would chalk that up to Stage Fright!  :o

Rich

Quote from: Pennman on October 28, 2025, 07:20:30 AMLooking back on post #3, from p.1, "quote", by Bernd:

"Hey Rich,

I've got my Yuengling beer and a front seat. I'll be following along to watch you do your magic.

Bernd"

Well, I'm happy you got on board, my friend. You must be out of Yuengling by now.
I've stocked the fridge with a few more, so help yourself to another cold one.
I never meant to skip over ya, I probably would chalk that up to Stage Fright!  :o

Rich

You're forgiven buddy as long as you got the fidge stocked with my favorite brew.  ;)   :)   ;D

B~

Good cool day today, everyone! I see a host of fellers on here this morning, ready to attack their day.  :-X

Since most of my build has been glued together already, I will have to spend some time taking some pictures and try
to crop them so not to show the entire building all at once. Most generally when we do these sort of tutorials, at least when they are step-by-step, it is much easier to accomplish.

I plan on showing some of the aspects of my build as to how and why I scratchbuilt this rather than put a kit together. I love to deviate from the norm anyway. Heck, if 200 people buy a kit to construct, then all of those builds will all look the same.   :D

With that, the last picture I showed had a length of wood (square timber), along the left/front edge (side or long wall), of the stone building. The extra piece of wood was needed to make up a length of missing wall. No worry here, as it would mostly be covered by an external chimney anyway.

And, I show now, all four sides of the stone masonry building, along with the sand pit (cutout).
Thanks for watching.

Rich

On the 4th photo, that steel beam on the left side kinda puzzled me.  I would have expected the beam to show up on the first photo, running to the left side of the model, so the left end of the beam was supported by the stone wall.  That photo is a bit dark, did I miss seeing it?

dave

As promised in my previous post, the bottom shows how I constructed it with a sheet of balsa wood for the floor for rigidity, and a ridge beam at the peak with stops at each peak for strength. Also shown are the interior cardstock walls mentioned previously. I am not yet showing the roof, as I constructed it removable, in case I want to light it up at a later time. The cubed area of wood inside the building is to cover the outside sand pit area.

A note regarding the sand pit area along the front (cutout) corner: The kit is constructed using a wall of brick, and to deviate on my build, I used a wall of clapboard. I also installed a door on the opposite wall and two lengths of H-Beam steel at the top for bracing. They are made of wood, not styrene. Some modelers have shown floor joists above, in the sand pit area. I merely used some lengths of scribed wood instead. One reason being, I didn't have the extra space required.

All have a good day today, and stay warm

Rich

Quote from: deemery on October 28, 2025, 10:23:11 AMOn the 4th photo, that steel beam on the left side kinda puzzled me.  I would have expected the beam to show up on the first photo, running to the left side of the model, so the left end of the beam was supported by the stone wall.  That photo is a bit dark, did I miss seeing it?

dave

No, Dave. When I took that picture, it hadn't been glued to the building yet. In construction of Brett's kit, they attached it in another direction, and I wanted mine pointing another way instead. As far as support goes, I have another plan for that, I'm still working on a solution as of today. You have a good eye, and thanks for the suggestions.

Rich

Hey Rich it's looking great!!

Jerry

Quote from: deemery on October 28, 2025, 10:23:11 AMOn the 4th photo, that steel beam on the left side kinda puzzled me.  I would have expected the beam to show up on the first photo

dave

Also, Dave, I'm trying my best to show wherever I can a S-B-S tutorial here. So don't expect to always see a finished wall. I can't believe that as experienced in modeling such as you are that you would even ask such a question, huh??  ::)  :o

Carry on...

Rich

Quote from: Pennman on October 28, 2025, 12:07:05 PM

Quote from: deemery on October 28, 2025, 10:23:11 AMOn the 4th photo, that steel beam on the left side kinda puzzled me.  I would have expected the beam to show up on the first photo

dave

Also, Dave, I'm trying my best to show wherever I can a S-B-S tutorial here. So don't expect to always see a finished wall. I can't believe that as experienced in modeling such as you are that you would even ask such a question, huh??  ::)  :o

Carry on...

Rich

I'm looking forward to see how you support that beam as the build evolves  ;D

dave

Well Dave, it's currently built into the stone wall, beginning at the far corner of the building. It's welded to the other beam at the point where they meet. And it's heftier than the other one that is suspended on it's lower flange.

If you were the guy that had to shovel sand, I doubt you'd have to worry about bumping your head
on a falling I-Beam. I'd be more apt to believe those blisters you would be favoring after shoveling.  :'(  ;D

Rich

Quote from: Jerry on October 28, 2025, 11:49:44 AMHey Rich it's looking great!!

Jerry

Well Jerry, you made my day for sure! I firmly believe that some people can just merely say" Hey Rich it's looking great!!" Thank you so much!!

Rich

Hello everyone...

I mentioned when I began this thread that a major portion of this diorama has been completed.
Although I cannot show individual steps as to how each section was done, I hope to bring you on a journey
that will be both pleasing to view and informative as I can make it. I had high hopes of having the stone
building, the work area and office planted before pictures were taken, but that cannot be done as of yet.
There are some parts of those buildings that cannot be glued on unless they are in their final positions.

For now... here's a "teezer" photo of the Front Office, Work Room, (behind), and the Main Stone Building,
(beyond). Sorry about the fuzzy/crappy picture taken on my workbench.

Rich

Oh what to heck, I might as well show a little more!

Instead of how everyone else who built their kits by making the outside overhead crane, going between the Repair Shop and the Work Room, I built mine differently. I wanted more open spacing between the stone building and the Work Room and I wanted to have ample space for more details. I built my overhead crane similar to some I've seen in other kits. Fine Scale Miniatures once made the crane like mine in white metal, but mine is totally constructed with wood and NBW's from Tichy.  Here's the roof that I constructed showing rafters getting ready for shingles. Also, these roofs will not be removable and neither will be the crane, because it will be glued in. I am not yet finished with the lower brick chimney in these photos.

Rich

Rich that is really coming along nicely.  Great color. Nice job on the crane and your rafters are really straight.

Jerry

Quote from: Jerry on October 30, 2025, 10:40:54 PMRich that is really coming along nicely.  Great color. Nice job on the crane and your rafters are really straight.

Jerry

Thank you Jerry. I'm trying to keep the colors flowing throughout this as best I can.
I think the grey tones of the stone building will match up nicely with the wood tones
of the windows, and maybe I might do a little dry-brushing to accent them. We shall see
how it goes from here on.

Rich

Damn, you're good at building stuff...I'm always in admiration of your level of skill and commitment to your projects. I wish I had the same drive.
I've let things languish around here.

Fifth  Dave to the right.

Quote from: Dave Buchholz on October 31, 2025, 01:01:17 PMDamn, you're good at building stuff...I'm always in admiration of your level of skill and commitment to your projects. I wish I had the same drive.
I've let things languish around here.

Fifth  Dave to the right.

Well Dave, thanks for the great compliments, but it hasn't been a fun ride really.
I hardly have found any time for modeling. The little woman has had me busy with
drywalling a room that took over four months to complete and then build her two
fireplaces. She says modeling is a waste of time. No worries though, no one knows
her email address and she dosen't read the forum! I'm safe within these bounds!  ;D

Rich

 ;)  ;D
Your secret is safe with me.

It's time for another update. I'm working on making some detail items.
Since I don't have a kit, I must make my own or purchase them.

The kit came with a vent hood that is positioned against a back wall of the Pattern Shop.
I'll show a picture from the Sierra West website of the vent on the building for clarification.

While looking for something a few days ago, I noticed something I could use to make one
that was very similar. I used to be employed as a Draftsman, many years ago, and I had some
boxes of Maptacks. These tacks are very sharp, so you never want to drop any on your floor
or you will be in pain, like you have never seen pain in your life before! Trust me, I know.
Anyway, I took out the "spike" with a pair of pliers, filled the hole with white Tamiya putty,
and painted the sphere with Master Series paint - Aged Pewter. After installing it to my outside
wall, dang! That sure looks like a winner to me!

Rich

Cool "adaptive reuse", Rich!

dave

Looks good Rich.

Been folowing along in silent mode and taking it all in. Great modeling going on here.

Bernd

Quote from: deemery on October 31, 2025, 03:59:37 PMCool "adaptive reuse", Rich!

dave

Thanks Dave, and for following.

These tacks are the same ones I use to glue to the bottom of my structures to pin them to foam,
instead of gluing them down. In case I wish to move them to another location later, not wanting to
destroy them in the process. I'm sure I'll find more uses as time goes on.

Dave, sending you a PM in a few minutes.

Rich

Quote from: Bernd on October 31, 2025, 04:02:05 PMLooks good Rich.

Been folowing along in silent mode and taking it all in. Great modeling going on here.

Bernd

Thank you for the nice compliment Bernd.

Another short update ~ Crane configuration

This crane will be fitted between the main stone building and the front office,  through the back work room, to carry
heavy items made in the foundry outside to be hauled to awaiting trucks for delivery. I made the work
room an "open room", so these details can be seen and not hidden.

If you notice the three gears at the top of the crane, they are watch parts. I buy them online and they have many uses. I have used some for saw blades that you hang on the walls in a shop area as an extra blade. They have "teeth" on them just like real saw blades. I fiddled with these enough for today. It was difficult trying to superglue two ends of the brass chains together to get the wheel halves to hang from the hook under the crane, but it works! Showing two pictures, one up closer.

Thanks for following.

Rich

Rich said:

QuoteIt was difficult trying to superglue two ends of the brass chains together to get the wheel halves to hang from the hook under the crane, but it works!

I would have used real fine wire to loop through the two end links and then drawn them together and then added glue. Try that next time.

I don't know if I would trust those wooden beams to hold up all that weight. Them termites can make sawdust out of those beams real fast.  :o  :)  :D   ;D

B~

Quote from: Pennman on October 31, 2025, 05:19:27 PMAnother short update ~ Crane configuration
This crane will be fitted between the main stone building and the front office,  through the back work room, to carry
heavy items made in the foundry outside to be hauled to awaiting trucks for delivery. I made the work
room an "open room", so these details can be seen and not hidden.
If you notice the three gears at the top of the crane, they are watch parts. I buy them online and they have many uses. I have used some for saw blades that you hang on the walls in a shop area as an extra blade. They have "teeth" on them just like real saw blades. I fiddled with these enough for today. It was difficult trying to superglue two ends of the brass chains together to get the wheel halves to hang from the hook under the crane, but it works! Showing two pictures, one up closer.
Thanks for following.
Rich

I would think this crane used chain rather than rope, much stronger, and also easier to hook/unhook.

And I agree with Bernd that steel/iron I beams would be better than wood for the beams. 

dave

Rich, I've been following along silently as well.
It all looks good to me.

Dave - I used chain - LOOK!!
Dave - Just because I used wood for the I-Beams, they are steel in real life!
I don't have any styrene - and I don't use it JEEZ!!!

Quote from: Bernd on October 31, 2025, 05:42:07 PMRich said:

QuoteIt was difficult trying to superglue two ends of the brass chains together to get the wheel halves to hang from the hook under the crane, but it works!

I would have used real fine wire to loop through the two end links and then drawn them together and then added glue. Try that next time.

OK, I will.  Thanks Bernd

Rich

I don't know if I would trust those wooden beams to hold up all that weight. Them termites can make sawdust out of those beams real fast.  :o  :)  :D   ;D

B~

Quote from: Rick on October 31, 2025, 06:30:55 PMRich, I've been following along silently as well.
It all looks good to me.

Thanks for following Rick and for the nice comment.

Rich

Time for another update....
I have finished shingling the front office and the open work room which houses the
overhead crane. Although I am showing this now on a piece of raw, unpainted plywood,
it will not be the final resting place for these buildings. I am working on the base
and am awaiting delivery of some scenic items before continuing with that, but I want
to show my progress.

The crane will be positioned later when I can put the concrete walkways
in their locations on real scenic ground. As for the shingles on the front office,
they are 3-tab shingles and on the open work room, they are real cedar shakes.
These two building have full length rafters, whereby I don't have to install rafter tails!
And I like that!

I hope you like it.

Rich
 

Rich, you are doing a wonderful job on your version of this foundry.
Keep up the great work!

Greg

Hey buddy it looks great!

The roofs looks great nice coloring on those shingles!

Jerry

Lookin' good Rich. Loves those real cedar shakes.

Bernd

Your craftsmanship always amazes me sir.
Thank you for posting the progress pics.

How about a post with all your past projects shown within it. I know I've lost tract of them

Thanks everyone for all of the nice comments, Greg, Jerry, Bernd & Dave (Fifth on the Rt)!

Like I said previously, without a full S-B-S build to show how I progress from one part to the next,
it's kind of difficult to show how it evolves. Like other modelers it's better to explain what was used
and where in case they wonder how to get similar products. It just makes for an all-around build. So if
there is anything you see in any of my pictures and wish to know about it, ask away.

With spotty internet the last few days, I need to post any updates asap, in case I cannot get online at
a later time. My ISP provider made a house call this morning to attempt a repair. They are working on it now.
I certainly hope I don't lose access, as writing intervals for other entities suffer as well, and it's not
just this site. I live in a very rural area, so a 5G service is probably out of the question for me.

With that, while I currently am online, here's another short update.

Here's a few pictures of my Pattern Shop, Tempering Shed, and Repair Shop.
In the 3rd and 4th picture, you will see another small addition/building that is
attached to the side of the Pattern Shop. There didn't seem to be much work area
on the outside concrete dock, so management opted for the construction of a Saw Filers Shop.
The roof is removable as well as the building framing & sides for viewing.
Thanks all for following.

Rich

Howdy Rich,

The foundry structures look amazing.  I like the colors.  Good luck with the Internet service.

Have fun,
mike

Great looking structures.  I especially like how the sign turned out. 

Jeff

You know maybe you should show Brett how it's really done!!!!

Amazing work Rich.

Jerry

Quote from: friscomike on November 04, 2025, 01:49:32 PMHowdy Rich,

The foundry structures look amazing.  I like the colors.  Good luck with the Internet service.

Have fun,
mike

Thank you for the nice comments Mike.
After 10+ hrs on the phone today with Verizon, I'm about to switch service companies.
That's internet & mobile accounts...  >:(  We'll see what a new day brings forth..

Rich

Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on November 04, 2025, 03:09:07 PMGreat looking structures.  I especially like how the sign turned out.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff. Can you tell me which sign you are referring to?  The Blacksmith sign over the front
of the Pattern Shop or the Morton's sign on the Repair Shop?

Rich

Quote from: Jerry on November 04, 2025, 06:45:41 PMYou know maybe you should show Brett how it's really done!!!!

Amazing work Rich.

Jerry

Thanks Jerry. Jerry...... you'll get me in trouble with statements like that!
I can get into enough trouble on my own, without extra help!   ::)

Rich

Quote from: Dave Buchholz on November 04, 2025, 10:48:32 AMYour craftsmanship always amazes me sir.
Thank you for posting the progress pics.

How about a post with all your past projects shown within it. I know I've lost tract of them

Dave,

That's a nice thing to say about my modeling, thanks.
It would be difficult to post 15+ diorama's into one post, don't you think?
Although I haven't shown all of my builds on forums, they do exist.
Without a layout though, I don't have a picture with all of them in it.
I doubt if anyone else would want to see all of them, but you never know.
I just like to build. Hopefully if I live to be over 100, you may also live to see a few more.  ;D

Rich

Not wanting to keep anyone in suspense, it's time to unveil what's under the roof
of the new shop.

Shop Foreman "Jerry" is busy planing some lumber for some new patterns
and nobody gets to talk to him over the hum of the busy machinery. Ya'all know what an
expert machinist he is, ya know! And he don't work for no minimum wage neither! LOL
Half of the time he don't show up for work either, thinks he's "special"!  ;D  ;)
Have at it, BOSS!

I'm looking at the photos to make sure the toilet has water in it. Knowing your incredible depth of detail, it wouldn't surprise me that it flushes.

🤔😅

Dave

Quote from: Dave Buchholz on November 05, 2025, 04:27:38 AMI'm looking at the photos to make sure the toilet has water in it. Knowing your incredible depth of detail, it wouldn't surprise me that it flushes.

🤔😅

Dave

Thanks Dave for continued following.
It did flush at one point, but the handle broke.
I think he's throwing used rags in there now.

Rich

Rich great job on the interior!!!! Luv, luv, luv all the details; I especially like the elevation with the flooring. Also you should post more of your dioramas; I know I'd like to see what you've created.

I just enlarged one of the last photos to see the detail better.What's that brown stuff in the toilet? Looks like you forgot the plunger!

😅😂🤣
OMG I'm laughing my butt off!Screenshot_20251105-082546.png

Quote from: Dave Buchholz on November 05, 2025, 08:25:30 AMI just enlarged one of the last photos to see the detail better.What's that brown stuff in the toilet?

😅😂🤣
OMG I'm laughing my butt off!Screenshot_20251105-082546.png

Just a reminder:  Please keep your answers non-political.   :D

dave

Nice work Rich

Great pictures of the detail Rich.

But if you don't get here this morning and clean that toilet you going to be in a lot of trouble!!!  ;D

Jerry

Quote from: deemery on November 05, 2025, 08:35:18 AM

Quote from: Dave Buchholz on November 05, 2025, 08:25:30 AMI just enlarged one of the last photos to see the detail better.What's that brown stuff in the toilet?

😅😂🤣
OMG I'm laughing my butt off!Screenshot_20251105-082546.png

Just a reminder:  Please keep your answers non-political.   :D

WOULD SOMEONE PLEASE SHOW ME WHERE ANYTHING IN THIS THREAD IS OF A "POLITICAL" NATURE", BECAUSE I DO NOT SEE THAT??  RICH

dave

Hopefully it was intended humorously. Although I couldn't tell which side of the commode was more  affected, right or left. Could you post a close up picture please?
🤔😅😂

Thanks for the nice comments, Jerry (Shop Foreman), Dave (5th Dave to the Rt.)(PS: Dave B., that's funny! Ha Ha!), Larry C, (Machine Shop Foreman), and Rick (World Traveler)! and Star (World Traveler's Mascot)!

I mentioned earlier showing the outside of the new Shop addition on the side of the Pattern Shop, that the outside shop framing walls are removable. I built it that way without gluing it in, in case I wanted to switch out the outside framing walls, remove the interior and I could place a smaller concrete dock, inside in it's place, with extra details later. If I lost anyone with that explanation, perhaps the pictures will show what I mean.
Here' the pictures.

Rich

Quote from: Pennman on November 05, 2025, 03:40:20 PM

Quote from: deemery on November 05, 2025, 08:35:18 AM

Quote from: Dave Buchholz on November 05, 2025, 08:25:30 AMI just enlarged one of the last photos to see the detail better.What's that brown stuff in the toilet?

😅😂🤣
OMG I'm laughing my butt off!Screenshot_20251105-082546.png

Just a reminder:  Please keep your answers non-political.  :D

WOULD SOMEONE PLEASE SHOW ME WHERE ANYTHING IN THIS THREAD IS OF A "POLITICAL" NATURE", BECAUSE I DO NOT SEE THAT??  RICH

dave

Rich, this comment was made in jest - suggesting what is in the toilet represents a certain political figure. 

Oh! Ok, Craig. Over my head on that one. I don't follow politics, that's why I model and play with trains
instead. I would rather smell the smoke from a steam engine than anything else.  :-[

Rich

I was thinking "political content" more generally, but yeah!

dave

I don't see where there was political content in either of our comments about "turds in the toilet". Then linking them somehow to an ideology was incorrect.


It was about noting the level of detail in Rich's Diarama. I've seen a few up close in my basement several years ago. The depth of detail he adds leaves me awestruck. Luckily my jaw was not made of glass, otherwise the boys would have needed a dustpan to pick up the pieces.

I remember a few of us teasing him in my home about one of his projects that I was able to observe closely. The only error we could find was needing more pigeon droppings on the roof.

🤔🤔😅

The devotion to planning, constructing, and detailing is way beyond average, or at least beyond my skills. I continue to be amazed by his patience and craftsmanship that goes into all of his works. I am in admiration of his skills.Simply spectacular!

Quote from: Pennman on November 05, 2025, 06:50:02 PMOh! Ok, Craig. Over my head on that one. I don't follow politics, that's why I model and play with trains
instead. I would rather smell the smoke from a steam engine than anything else.  :-[

Rich

I agree. Trains are the best remedy to life!

Quote from: Dave Buchholz on November 05, 2025, 10:11:51 PMI don't see where there was political content in either of our comments about "turds in the toilet". Then linking them somehow to an ideology was incorrect.


It was about noting the level of detail in Rich's Diarama. I've seen a few up close in my basement several years ago. The depth of detail he adds leaves me awestruck. Luckily my jaw was not made of glass, otherwise the boys would have needed a dustpan to pick up the pieces.

I remember a few of us teasing him in my home about one of his projects that I was able to observe closely. The only error we could find was needing more pigeon droppings on the roof.

🤔🤔😅

The devotion to planning, constructing, and detailing is way beyond average, or at least beyond my skills. I continue to be amazed by his patience and craftsmanship that goes into all of his works. I am in admiration of his skills.Simply spectacular!

No issues with any posts, Dave. All is well.

Thank you. I appreciate your perspective

Fifth Dave on the right

Rich,

Excellent scratch build. Love the attention to detail and have enjoyed following along on your build.

Tom

Quote from: Dave Buchholz on November 06, 2025, 07:02:44 AMThank you. I appreciate your perspective

Fifth Dave on the right

Dave,

I guess I'm slow on this but just can't seem to get anything political out of your comment about the brown stuff.

I do follow politics and am very passionate in my beliefs. However, I didn't see anything political until, Dave, the Moderator, made his comment.

As someone said, "Let's all just hobby on!"

Tom

Quote from: Keep It Rusty on November 06, 2025, 01:37:54 AM

Quote from: Pennman on November 05, 2025, 06:50:02 PMOh! Ok, Craig. Over my head on that one. I don't follow politics, that's why I model and play with trains
instead. I would rather smell the smoke from a steam engine than anything else.  :-[

Rich

I agree. Trains are the best remedy to life!

Good Morning Craig,

Thank you for stepping in to settle what was not a dilemma, but merely a misunderstanding, that
the way I see it, could have been Rambo IV. Your Deputy makes up a problem due to his own miss-guided beliefs,
pokes the bear, then wonders why there's a problem he can't handle.

I am not upset, and I hope you are not either. I would have sent this message to you personally, but not this time.
Your Deputy needs to see how I feel about this. He was beginning to get under my skin with his remarks, jumping on my every post, with my modeling being done wrong. I can take good constructive criticism, but some people wonder why I haven't shown any of my builds. It is due to things like this. But this never ever happens to me, I don't get it.

I love this forum and I love building and showing my models. And I love putting a little humor into my presentations.
It is not a crime..

Rich

Rich I just found your thread by accident since I normally don't peruse the scratch building thread.

Truly outstanding modeling especially since you are doing it scratch. You have definitely improved upon the original design and even added an additional building. I may borrow (read steal) your idea about that.

Once again outstanding modeling.

Quote from: ACL1504 on November 06, 2025, 07:33:05 AMRich,

Excellent scratch build. Love the attention to detail and have enjoyed following along on your build.

Tom

Thank you Tom for your kind thoughts regarding my modeling, and I do agree with you about moving on.

Rich

Quote from: PRR Modeler on November 06, 2025, 08:29:16 AMRich I just found your thread by accident since I normally don't peruse the scratch building thread.

Truly outstanding modeling especially since you are doing it scratch. You have definitely improved upon the original design and even added an additional building. I may borrow (read steal) your idea about that.

Once again outstanding modeling.

Many thanks for your nice comments, Curt. Most of you gents are seasoned modelers here, and you all model over the top. Steal anything you wish. We are all here to share everything. It's just another part of what makes this the world's most wonderful hobby.

Rich

Amen brother.

As is  true  of you  and  so many other  modelers here on this  forum I could mention, thank you for your explanations and photos  of your works, and efforts and  to  help all  our fellow modelers to improve their modeling skills .
I for one am appreciative of them.

(I'll await for that smooze check in the mail. Made sure you spell the name correctly so it doesn't bounce like last time)

Fifth Dave to the right

😅🤣

All the signs are great.  The sign for the foundry in your 6.jpg is the one I was referring to.  

Jeff

Howdy Rich, 

The model shows your amazing talent for detail and construction.  Nice work.

Have fun,
mike

Quote from: Jerry on November 05, 2025, 10:13:20 AMGreat pictures of the detail Rich.

But if you don't get here this morning and clean that toilet you going to be in a lot of trouble!!!  ;D

Jerry

Thanks Jerry, more updates soon.

Rich

Quote from: Dave Buchholz on November 06, 2025, 10:04:35 AMAmen brother.

As is  true  of you  and  so many other  modelers here on this  forum I could mention, thank you for your explanations and photos  of your works, and efforts and  to  help all  our fellow modelers to improve their modeling skills .
I for one am appreciative of them.

(I'll await for that smooze check in the mail. Made sure you spell the name correctly so it doesn't bounce like last time)

Fifth Dave to the right

😅🤣

Thanks much Dave, it's appreciated. You are too kind.
PS: The check is in the mail....

Rich

Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on November 06, 2025, 04:29:10 PMAll the signs are great.  The sign for the foundry in your 6.jpg is the one I was referring to. 

Jeff

Thank you Jeff.  Well you can call me a thief now! I stole that sign from another modeler, online,
from his build of the Sierra West kit. I cropped it on the photo, then printed it out to paste
it to my building. I thought it would be fuzzier than how it came out, but I was wrong, obviously.
Thanks for following me with this group of structures. Hopefully I can get them on a base soon.

Rich

Quote from: friscomike on November 06, 2025, 05:36:46 PMHowdy Rich,

The model shows your amazing talent for detail and construction.  Nice work.

Have fun,
mike

Mike, Mike, you are way too kind in your thoughts regarding my modeling.
I don't understand what you think is amazing, it just comes naturally for me.
But, I'm glad you like it. Thanks again.

Rich

Quote from: Pennman on November 06, 2025, 06:23:59 PM

Quote from: friscomike on November 06, 2025, 05:36:46 PMHowdy Rich,

The model shows your amazing talent for detail and construction.  Nice work.

Have fun,
mike

Mike, Mike, you are way too kind in your thoughts regarding my modeling.
I don't understand what you think is amazing, it just comes naturally for me.
But, I'm glad you like it. Thanks again.

Rich

Howdy Rick,

Natural for you might be amazing for some of us.  Thanks for the inspiration.

Have fun,
mike

Thank you Mike. I guess I shouldn't be so bashful and just accept it.
I will try to keep everyone interested.

Rich

I was just going back through this thread viewing the nice work Rich is doing and the comments. The one that is of interest is Dave was talking about beam support. So I went to the Sierra West website to take a look at how Brett had done it. From what I can see from his photo's it looks like the beam is set back away from the front of the wall making it look like it's supported by the walls. White arrows.

(https://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/Modelrs%20Froum/questionable.jpg)

The one thing that doesn't look plusible is the crane mounting. Red Arrows. I would think that the stone walls would not be able to hold any kind of weight hanging off the end of that crane. I had to blow up the picture from the orginal since that detail would have been hard to see.

That's my opinion and I'm sticking to it.  ;)

Bernd

Bernd,

Thank you for your explanation and expert analysis. I believe you are correct in your assumptions.
Although, what I think Dave was referring to was my lengthy beam extending out beyond the wall corner,
not being well-supported. Which in fact is true, due to my not finishing my corner yet. I do plan on
supporting it, but without having the sand pit established yet, there's no place to attach another
vertical support post to. I will get that done later.

Thanks to the both of you.
Rich

Hello everyone... just a small update with a couple of pictures
to show you that this thread is still active...

The lighting in my room is poor and considering the numerous diorama's that are
accumulating within the walls of my dedicated space, it is difficult to get good pictures.

I want to show the other corner and side of the Blacksmith's Shop and Tempering Shed.
I constructed a wooden dock in front of the Blacksmith's Shop and another on the side with a
ramp instead of stairs. A tow motor will aide in moving heavy objects.

I had to shine a flashlight in order to film the brick oven between the two buildings, that was
setting back in the alcove in the dark. I used 1/32" thick Monster Model Works aged brick
sheeting for the outside of the brick oven. I like the way it accepts chalk & Alcohol.
Rarely do I use any acrylic paints on it.

Currently I am working on the roof details, adding more coloring to the stone building,
and buying some real estate.  ;)

I will update this again a a couple of days. Thanks for looking.
Rich

Great modeling Rich. You have started me thinking about the crane and supports for my kit through the discussion here.

Howdy, Rich, the shop and shed are looking good.  Thanks for the photos.  Have fun ,mike

Rich,

Quality Scratch build, look great.

Tom

Nice work Rich.
Keep at it.

Hey Rich it looks great!  Nice update and I really like that wood coloring.

Jerry

Quote from: PRR Modeler on November 11, 2025, 05:21:25 AMGreat modeling Rich. You have started me thinking about the crane and supports for my kit through the discussion here.

Thanks for your comments Curt. Since you have the kit, just follow the directions and you should be ok.
It was noted on the Sierra West Forums, that modelers found the decal for the 10 Ton load limit was
printed upside down. You may want to check that out when the time comes to use it.

Rich

Thanks for the nice comments, Mike, Tom, Rick and Jerry.
Looking back at my close-up pictures makes me want to re-do
some of the shiney painted doors and window edges. The two doors
on the front of the Blacksmith's Shop look like I painted them
without any primer. I will paint the hinges though. Funny how
pictures show imperfections...

Rich

Rich everything is really looking good and it's nice to see someone else scratch building. Enjoy the process.

Quote from: Larry C on November 11, 2025, 05:26:23 PMRich everything is really looking good and it's nice to see someone else scratch building. Enjoy the process.

Thanks very much Larry.  Indeed I am and now that the cold & white stuff is chasing us down,
I'm sure I will find the necessary time to finish this.

Rich

Hey Rich, I'll be following along on this now.

Quote from: GregCassidy on November 14, 2025, 07:27:49 PMHey Rich, I'll be following along on this now.

Greg,

I'm glad you found us again and I am glad to have you come along for the ride.

Rich

Thank you to everyone following my thread.
A few days ago I learned of the death of a long time family friend. Since, I have done no modeling
and can think of nothing else. I'm sure these feelings will come to pass, just not very soon. Sorry.

When my Mom was a young gal, she grew up with two other girls in her country neighborhood. It was in
the late 1920's, about the time when John Dillinger was roaming the countryside. As the three of them
played outside during those early years, my Grandmother always ushered them inside to play instead. The
three girls formed a special bond, and vowed to stay friends throughout their lives. These two other
friends of my Mom's were like my 2nd and 3rd Mom's to me, growing up. Now that they all have been
called "home", including my Mom, all three of them are together once again. And, all of the offspring
from these families have carried on their tradition.

Rich

Stay strong Rich. There is light at the en of the tunnel and it's not a locomotive headlight!

Bernd

We are with you in spirit, my friend.

Dave

Rich condolences on the loss of the close family friend.

Thank you, Bernd, Dave and Curt, your heartfelt wishes have helped considerably, and I will
get through this time once again. Life goes on and we all have had similar instances where
friends come forward to help, it is much appreciated.
I will be back online later this evening with a short update.

Rich

Rich, I'm sorry to read of your loss of a family friend.
Please take some comfort in knowing that my thoughts & prayers are with you.

Greg

Thank you Greg. It's nice to know that friends care.
I'm better today, and your heartfelt wishes are soothing.

Rich

Now that the toilet dilemma is behind us  ;D , please beware that if you frequent Jerry's Pattern Shop
work area, there's a new sign "closed for toilet repairs", hanging by the door. No one is allowed to use it
going forward! Also there were too many newspaper reporters trying to cop a story before the next flush.  ;D

I am currently working on getting a base established for this diorama. I had a base I made previously
for another project, didn't use it, but it was covered entirely with grout. I had also glued a strip
of thin cork along one edge as a place to glue ballast and attach a RR track. I decided to use it this
time, but I want to scenic it with some vegetation rather than just a dirt ground. This is what it looks
like.  See first picture.

So, this time I am using the base that was already constructed, and I am adding a one-inch layer of new pink foam. I have decided to drop in another already constructed model on one corner of the base. The model was built on a 1/4th inch thickness of plywood with a 3/16th inch layer of black foam board.
To do this I cut another 1/2 inch thickness of plywood to place underneath the diorama, including two thin pieces of clear styrene sheets for spacers to bring the top of the diorama up to the top of the newly added surrounding, pink foam insulation board. This makes it easy to scenic around the buildings when they are on the same level. I also put three screws into the added plywood to hold it in place (to forestall someone bumping it) before adding the diorama. To complete the diorama corner, I added two lengths of wood on both sides and painted them a soft brown earthy color to match the surrounding earthen ground. See pictures.

The total thickness of the pre-constructed drop-in diorama (including the diorama) is about one inch which matches the rest of the real estate.

The base construction mentioned here coincides with my pinning of built structures to a place of final placement. Rather than gluing them to foam I pin them because I can fit more buildings into one location. If they were glued, (onto separate bases), there would be greater spaces of earth between buildings than need be.

Some of you may be wondering why I am building on bases. These models I am making are not all planned on going on shelves. I have been contemplating for some time how I can either make a switching layout along one or two walls in my room or some modules that can be bolted together and eventually be pushed out of the way to regain the space they take up. My room is small and both sides of the room (lengthwise) have short knee walls
that are only 45 inches measured vertically from the floor upward. Along those walls (into the knee wall area) are cupboard doors where my wife has stored her Holiday decorations.
I must have open spacing to allow access to those doors when each holiday arises. And I must leave the spaces empty so when the holiday is over, she can put her decorations away again. Now this has caused a major concern and lengthy deliberations in my home ever since they were established. And if you're wondering, NO, I didn't win. Anyway, it is what it is.  ::)

Rich

"Now that the toilet dilemma is behind us  ;D , please beware that if you frequent Jerry's Pattern Shop
work area, there's a new sign "closed for toilet repairs", hanging by the door. No one is allowed to use it
going forward! Also there were too many newspaper reporters trying to cop a story before the next flush.  ;D,"

Glad you got a good laugh out out the "turds in the toilet" episode.

🤔😅

Dave #5

Rich wrote:

QuoteSome of you may be wondering why I am building on bases. These models I am making are not all planned on going on shelves. I have been contemplating for some time how I can either make a switching layout along one or two walls in my room or some modules that can be bolted together and eventually be pushed out of the way to regain the space they take up. My room is small and both sides of the room (lengthwise) have short knee walls
that are only 45 inches measured vertically from the floor upward. Along those walls (into the knee wall area) are cupboard doors where my wife has stored her Holiday decorations.
I must have open spacing to allow access to those doors when each holiday arises. And I must leave the spaces empty so when the holiday is over, she can put her decorations away again. Now this has caused a major concern and lengthy deliberations in my home ever since they were established. And if you're wondering, NO, I didn't win. Anyway, it is what it is.  ::)

I'd build a shelf 47" high and out about 36". Make sure she has enough room to crawl under the shelf layout. And just like in large cities if you run out of square area to build, then go up. A muilti-layer layout looks like it would work for you.They call them "mushroom layouts". Do a search on "mushroom style model railroad layout". Might give you some ideas.

Bernd

Quote from: Bernd on November 22, 2025, 09:04:34 AMRich wrote:

QuoteSome of you may be wondering why I am building on bases. These models I am making are not all planned on going on shelves. I have been contemplating for some time how I can either make a switching layout along one or two walls in my room or some modules that can be bolted together and eventually be pushed out of the way to regain the space they take up. My room is small and both sides of the room (lengthwise) have short knee walls
that are only 45 inches measured vertically from the floor upward. Along those walls (into the knee wall area) are cupboard doors where my wife has stored her Holiday decorations.
I must have open spacing to allow access to those doors when each holiday arises. And I must leave the spaces empty so when the holiday is over, she can put her decorations away again. Now this has caused a major concern and lengthy deliberations in my home ever since they were established. And if you're wondering, NO, I didn't win. Anyway, it is what it is.  ::)

I'd build a shelf 47" high and out about 36". Make sure she has enough room to crawl under the shelf layout. And just like in large cities if you run out of square area to build, then go up. A muilti-layer layout looks like it would work for you.They call them "mushroom layouts". Do a search on "mushroom style model railroad layout". Might give you some ideas.

Bernd

Space the final frontier!!!!  And you don't have any I know what you mean!!!  :(

Jerry 

Thanks for following and your comments, Dave, Bernd & Jerry.

I'm currently working on the base and before I can "plant" my structures to any real estate, I must decide on the final color I want for the main stone building. If you remember from an earlier post where I began this journey, I mentioned that I had painted this plaster building about seven years ago. It was at that time in my early modeling days that painting any plaster structure intimidated me. I was not sure what to use or how to go about it. I still find it difficult on how I want it to look and that depends on what you use.

Another aspect for this model that comes to mind is the way the stones were scribed into the plaster walls. I'm not too fond of the way they look. If I can show a close-up picture you will see what I mean. The individual stones are so tiny between the next ones that it is difficult to paint any of them separately. I first used pan pastel pigments over the gray stones but that gave a muddy effect and looked wrong to me. So, I opted for a darker than normal paint color to shadow them so they wouldn't be easily seen. My problem now is they are too dark for my liking. I know I could re-paint the entire building with a light paint and go on from there, but I don't want to do that this time. My thought now is to either mist a light gray paint (matt) or light gray Tamiya Surface Primer and dry-brush light colors in layers over the dried primer. What I used last was Woodland Scenics Stone Gray acrylic Liquid Pigment C1218. But it dried darker than I thought it would.

First two pictures show the beginning attempt coloring after using pan pastels
Third picture is the bottle of Woodland Scenics liquid pigment
Fourth picture is after painting with the Woodland Scenics liquid pigment and this is how the building looks now. I'm going to try to lighten the color overall.


I will be working on final coloring of this building and scenery for the base. Back in a couple of days.

Rich

Great looking progress Rich.

Rich I would have stayed with the lighter color in picture 1.  And worked from there.
But overall I like the color.

Jerry

Thanks for your nice comments Curt and Jerry.
I may keep this as is, but it's really dark now.
I think I will try the dry-brushing first, then see how it looks.

Rich

I was wondering if you where going to dry brush highlights rather than keep it monotone.

Rich,

I agree with you in that the stones are dark and the mortar makes it look darker. That said, I believe if you dry brush the stones with a lighter color such as light gray or a driftwood color, the stones will look right.

Tom

Lets see. This is a foundry right? Everything should have a dark dust over it from the casting of metal. Having worked for a company that at one time poured it's own castings I know how much soot gets into the air. If you had a white car, by the time your work shift was over and they poured that day you would have a very dark car on any horizontal surface. I don't think making the building lighter would make you think it was a foundry. Just my opinion and experince being near a foundry.

Bernd

Well...let's see...thanks for all of your expert responses. Thanks for visiting again Dave, Tom & Bernd.
All of your responses were good ones, this wasn't a contest, and no, you're not gonna end up with the model
when I'm finished.  ;D
BUT.. you are all too late! I got up around 5:00 am this morning, decided against the dry-brushing, and
have commenced upon painting all of the stones individually. Yes, I typed that right! LOL It can be done
and it will be marvelous. You see, I used to paint the smallest of details on my wife's ceramics. The smaller
they were, the better I got at it. You just have to have 20 cups of coffee and very steady hands. What??
Coffee actually steadies my hands.

Maybe if all works out, and my eyes begin to re*focus, I'll be back with a "sneak-peek" for ya!  8)

Rich

I'd drybrush (a good task for a make-up sponge) with a lighter grey, moving the sponge in one direction, top-down.  That'll highlight the top of the stones where the light hits them, but won't change the overall sooty tone of the building. 

And I'd do that after you paint the individual stones. 

dave

Rich,

The good news is that you are happy with what you created.

Tom

Quote from: deemery on November 23, 2025, 09:43:34 AMI'd drybrush (a good task for a make-up sponge) with a lighter grey, moving the sponge in one direction, top-down.  That'll highlight the top of the stones where the light hits them, but won't change the overall sooty tone of the building. 

And I'd do that after you paint the individual stones. 

dave

Thanks for your input here Dave. I might try that like you say. I'll at least give it a try.
I've seen it done before with excellent results.

Rich

Quote from: ACL1504 on November 23, 2025, 09:45:06 AMRich,

The good news is that you are happy with what you created.

Tom

Tom,

You could be right, but I haven't thrown it out yet.  ;D
Thanks for visiting again, and your comments.

Rich

You started 5 hours ago where's the picture???  ;D 8) :)

Jerry

😅😂

Quote from: Pennman on November 23, 2025, 09:47:19 AM

Quote from: deemery on November 23, 2025, 09:43:34 AMI'd drybrush (a good task for a make-up sponge) with a lighter grey, moving the sponge in one direction, top-down.  That'll highlight the top of the stones where the light hits them, but won't change the overall sooty tone of the building. 

And I'd do that after you paint the individual stones. 

dave

Thanks for your input here Dave. I might try that like you say. I'll at least give it a try.
I've seen it done before with excellent results.

Rich

If you varnish/seal the structure before that drybrush step, and use something like pigments, Pan Pastels or even gouache, it would be easy to wash it off if you don't like the result (or at least wipe off with a damp towel.)  

dave

Quote from: Jerry on November 23, 2025, 10:19:51 AMYou started 5 hours ago where's the picture???  ;D 8) :)

Jerry

You're a real riot Alice!! ;D  ;D
It's not a "paint by number", like something you would do! LOL HA HA HA, I'll laugh again!
I really think that was funny speaking off the cuff. Later my friend. You'll have to get in line
and your place is now at the rear.

Richie ;)

"If you varnish/seal the structure before that drybrush step, and use something like pigments, Pan Pastels or even gouache, it would be easy to wash it off if you don't like the result (or at least wipe off with a damp towel.)"

dave

Dave, Thanks for that, but I have never used gouache, and I have some, but not sure how it is mixed/applied.
In those pictures back in post #123, the first two pictures where the walls were light gray, I brushed on liquid dullcote lacquer (thinned), before adding the pan pastels. Frank Bernard is the one who told me to do that step too.
It sort of gives some tooth for the pastel pigments to adhere. I used a stiff brush with short bristles to apply the pan pastels, but they didn't seem to adhere well to the dried acrylic paint base. And, it is difficult to paint apply them to small stones with a sponge. You need something stiff and small for small stones. Should I have used plain alcohol with the pan pastels?

By the nature of these statements I made here, you probably realize I'm not too experienced with using these mediums yet. I just want the end product to look the best.

I do have another question. I have Vallejo powder pigments. What would I use other than water to mix with them to apply them to my model? I don't want them to end up as a paste, I wouldn't want them to dry in lumps if I got too much on. I was thinking of using windshield washer fluid and maybe a couple drops of Kodak Photo Flow 200 solution. What do you think? And are they able to be mixed with plain alcohol.

Any help is much appreciated, thanks

Rich

Gouache is just opaque watercolor.  It's made 'opaque' by adding very finely ground marble to regular watercolor.  Since it's a watercolor, it will easily wash off/wipe off.  Unlike acrylics, it doesn't really cure, so afterwards you should apply some matte coating to protect the results.  You can get a cheap student gouache set at a craft store.  It's neat stuff to work with, I think Mike Tylick uses that stuff on occasion, too.

A good applicator for pigments/Pan Pastels in small locations is a pointed make-up applicator, like these: https://www.amazon.com/Pointed-Cotton-Double-Precision-Personal/dp/B0D4PBTSHM  If there's a "Sally Beauty Supply' near you, check there (or ask your wife).

You can mix pigments with water, alcohol, or with paint thinner/mineral spirits.  For the latter, be careful you don't attack the plastic.  You can add pigments to a very small amount of medium (water, alcohol, spirits) to get a paste, or mix pigments with medium to get a paint consistency or a wash consistency.  And you can apply more medium after the pigments are on the model, to get different effects.  One problem with windshield washer fluid is that stuff often contains a blue pigment, and that will change the colors on the model.  For this, better to mix some alcohol and wet water to get the same mixture without the blue tint.  I've heard of Windex also used as a medium/thinner for pigments.   One approach is to wet your brush in the medium, then pick up some pigment, and work it onto clear or white plastic to see the result, before applying it to the model.

dave

Dave,

Many thanks for the information.
I will play around with this tonight, and update my thread tomorrow.
I think I'll try some things first on some painted scrap plaster.

Rich

Howdy Rich,

I think any of those colors would make a good place to start. You are on the right track with dry brushing or even picking out random stones with colors almost the same as the base color.  I found that working in layers made the stone look more realistic.  You might look at a prototype of a similar stone to guide you.

and

Have fun,
mike

Quote from: friscomike on November 23, 2025, 08:19:23 PMHowdy Rich,

I think any of those colors would make a good place to start. You are on the right track with dry brushing or even picking out random stones with colors almost the same as the base color.  I found that working in layers made the stone look more realistic.  You might look at a prototype of a similar stone to guide you.

and

Have fun,
mike

Thanks for checking in again Mike. And for your expert analysis and tips going forward.
I usually bring up a colored picture on my computer screen when doing similar projects.
Jerry thinks I can paint this in five hours. Actually it's been all day. It's harder than that.
I can't sit for 12+ hours painting that long, I go stir crazy. Also, I won't show it half completed.

Rich

Time for another update on this wonderful nightmare of a project!  ;)

First, I want to thank the members who gave insight as to how I could go about painting the walls for the
main stone building. After checking through most all of my paints to find different shades of gray paints,
I decided to mix my own custom colors using various shades of Slate Gray mixed with concrete which gave me
a dark shade of gray. I painted the individual stones using a 00000 paint brush, which has a very small tip
with just a few hairs. I also diluted the paint a little with windshield washer fluid, (excuse me Dave Emery,
but I like what it does for me), and commenced.

I started by painting some light shades of gray over the dark walls and the first picture shows the beginning walls with those highlighted stones. After those stones dried, I began painting with the custom dark gray paint that I mixed and the second picture is the result.

These walls are not yet completed, but I want to give you a peek as to how they first begin and later the result. I watched a video on YouTube, whereby a guy painted a resin stone building using similar paint colors.
I am happy how they are beginning to look now, but I have yet to dry-brush the walls using two paint colors and also do a wash before they will be completed. I do like how these are beginning to look, and I believe they will be much better, later, when I am done.
Enjoy!

Rich

Adding one more picture.

Rich

They look a lot better now Rich.  Your doing a fine job just take your time.  
You've always have seemed to get it the way you want an I'm sure this time it will be no different.

Jerry

They look a lot better now Rich.  Your doing a fine job just take your time. 
You've always have seemed to get it the way you want an I'm sure this time it will be no different.

Jerry
[/quote]

Thank you so very much, Jerry. They are not done and not totally there yet, but I'm getting close.
The small tipped brush really helped a lot.

Rich

The walls look very good. I will say the original coloring that the walls had looked good to me also and conveyed age to me. Just one man's opinion.

Rich, walls are looking better.
Keep at it.

I like the muted colors, that make the rocks look like they all came from the same quarry.  

Windshield Fluid works well on a lot of paints.  Just don't pour thinned paint back into the bottle.

dave

Looking good Rich.

B~

Thanks for all of the nice comments Curt, Rick, Dave and Bernd.
I have always wondered what colors to choose when weathering buildings.
I don't want them all to look the same, and they have to complement any
scenery they are placed near to as well. I always try to anyway.

Rich

In the next day or so, I will begin to plant this onto a base to facilitate adding the scenery.
I have completely finished coloring the stone walls on the main foundry building.

You saw the walls in my first attempt to get them colored using a couple shades of gray paint.
Today, after watching a YouTube video, I followed the artist with what he did for a similar model (gray in color with browns. Although I didn't have the exact colors of paint he used, I chose similar ones. The steps I followed greatly enhanced the overall looks of the gray stones and I am happy with the results.

First, I used Master Series Core Colors Green Ochre (light brown) and dry-brushed it lightly.

Second, I used Master Series Bleached Linen (artist in the video used a bone colored Flesh paint), and dry-brushed that lightly.
Immediately, I thinned Model Air Sand (71.075) mixed with distilled water to a very thin slurry and completely covered all four sides. After that dried, I used the Black Shadow Tempera Paint mixed with distilled water to a very thin slurry, and painted all of the outside of the four walls. The Tempera Paint is actually a fine powder, when mixed with water, can be used to enhance dark shadows above and below the stones of a stone wall. I could have used any black paints or Ink & Alcohol, but I preferred to use the Black Shadow powder instead for this model.

Here are the pictures of the products used.
And one of the building as it is now.

Rich

Here are more pictures for you around the building.
Thanks for watching.

Rich

Back again, forgot the other two pictures, old age creeping along..
Oh, BTW... Thanks for everyone's concern for my leg. It's better and mending.
My wife said I played it too dramatic, Ha! I still have to shovel snow, dang!  ;D

Rich

Great job so far Rich, it's starting to come to life. I'm glad your leg is better.

Howdy Rich,

Nice work coloring the stone.  I like the random subtle color changes. The foundry scene is coming together well.

Have fun,
mike

Nice work Rich.

Good to hear your leg is doing better.

Model on.

Bernd

Rich look great.  Your doing a great job on this scratch build.

It's easy for your wife to say that! It's not her leg!!!!!! 

Jerry

Thanks for following Curt, Mike, Bernd & Jerry and for your kind comments.
I made a few detail items for around the stone building, but not much to show yet.
I will be working on the base this coming week, so stay tuned. Thanks for watching.

Rich

Rich, the model is looking good and glad the leg is healing.

Quote from: Rick on December 01, 2025, 07:58:22 AMRich, the model is looking good and glad the leg is healing.

Thank you, Rick.
I'm glad you are making memories with your daughter and grandkids.
Stay safe out there.

Rich

Looking good but...
Don't read on if you're happy with it.
Some subtle variation would help.
FWIW I suck at stone walls but there are a lot of them here in East Tennessee.
MJinTN

Quote from: labdad on December 01, 2025, 08:06:46 PMLooking good but...
Don't read on if you're happy with it.
Some subtle variation would help.
FWIW I suck at stone walls but there are a lot of them here in East Tennessee.
MJinTN

With no disrespect, "Inspector Martin'", I took a second and third look at the walls again this evening!
And since you were the only gent here brave enough to give your honest opinion, I'll take a stab at the model
again, not you though! LOL   ;D

Honestly, in a different light it really doesn't look too bad. I believe the light I chose when taking the
pictures added to its demise. But using the criteria you do when you build those wonderful machines, I can see
a great need for improvement overall.

I have used the Bragdon Tempera powder paint in the past and I had forgotten how dark it makes a model.
So, if I can remove some in random areas and enhance the look of some more stones, I think it can be presented
again, in the near future.

Many thanks for your honest opinion. We shall see.  8)

Rich

Rich I'm going to take the descending path. Personally I like the subtleness of the color variations. The tones don't always have to be"in your face" with the variations.

I agree with Larry to an extent. My distinction would be if this is ultimately intended as a foreground versus a background building.

If it's foreground, some color variation of the stone work helps draw attention to it, and all the work that went into it. To me, a monotone look tends to draw less attention to it, and visually doesn't draw my gaze towards it as much.

I understand the "same quarry" theory that was offered.  Which is likely the prototype situation in most buildings. But how about the lintels being a different stone for greater strength. More so than what appears likely, by virtue of color to be "sedimentary slate" in the walls. Which because of its layered structure has less strength, more readily fractured if used as a lintel over doors. So I would make any lintels a distinctly different color, representing a different stone used for structural integrity.

I think the stones around the circular window could be highlighted since they are obviously intended as a decorative element by the architect.

Just a thought.
Hope to see you at the RIT train show if the weather is good.

Dave #5

Quote from: Larry C on December 02, 2025, 11:54:13 AMRich I'm going to take the descending path. Personally I like the subtleness of the color variations. The tones don't always have to be"in your face" with the variations.

Thanks for that input Larry. I do agree with you in one respect, but I am working on enhancing the look a little more.
Overall, with the wash I used with the Bragdon powder, it turned a little too dark for me. We shall see how this goes hereon out.

Rich

Quote from: Dave Buchholz on December 03, 2025, 07:33:10 AMI agree with Larry to an extent. My distinction would be if this is ultimately intended as a foreground versus a background building.

If it's foreground, some color variation of the stone work helps draw attention to it, and all the work that went into it. To me, a monotone look tends to draw less attention to it, and visually doesn't draw my gaze towards it as much.

I understand the "same quarry" theory that was offered.  Which is likely the prototype situation in most buildings. But how about the lintels being a different stone for greater strength. More so than what appears likely, by virtue of color to be "sedimentary slate" in the walls. Which because of its layered structure has less strength, more readily fractured if used as a lintel over doors. So I would make any lintels a distinctly different color, representing a different stone used for structural integrity.

I think the stones around the circular window could be highlighted since they are obviously intended as a decorative element by the architect.

Just a thought.
Hope to see you at the RIT train show if the weather is good.

Dave #5

Thanks Dave (5th on the right), I believe the lentils on this building are not stone, but well-worn wood. In this case, I will weather them as such. On the other hand, the stone walls do need more colors, as I posted to Larry above.
Some are a subtle light brown and a heavier brown, but are obscured from view due to the black pigment wash. I lightly went over the entire outside with a wash of windshield washer fluid, and that took away some of the darkness. I'm going to try something else today.

As far as the Rochester, NY train show goes, I will attend if we don't have a nasty forecast that day.
And, if Bernd doesn't show up with his pockets full of $$, then you and I are bound to find some decent bargians.  ;D  8)

Rich

🤔😅🤣

Good evening everyone...I'm back with another update.

I chose to re-do the outside of the main stone foundry building.
This time instead of continuing with Vallejo Air or Model Series acrylic paints,
I decided to use Floquil Stains. They are most generally used on wood and can be
used on hydrocal. I would use them on hydrocal at first, but only if the hydrocal
had never been painted with anything. That however wasn't the case since I had
already painted them.

So, I first randomly painted the few stones I did paint with several layers of the brownish
Floquil Stains. I used Driftwood, Golden Oak, Maple, Brown Walnut, Hickory, and Rosewood
Floquil Stains. I let those colors dry for a few minutes, and when the Driftwood stain began
to settle, so that it wasn't full strength, I covered the entire four walls with that. As I
brushed it on, I saw that I was mostly using the oils and not full strength Driftwood.
I really like how the walls look at this point now. What do ya'all think?

Thanks for watching.
Rich

Rich I think they look great!

I think you doing them with the Floquil was really the trick wonderful job.

Jerry

I like it better now Rich. Highlighting some stones draws the viewer in to the rest of the structure and its details.

It's winter! Put a roof on that thing before three feet of snow gets inside!

Dave #5

Looks very good Rich.

Howdy Rich,  excellent work coloring the stones.  They look authentic.  Have fun, mike

Nice!!

Hello.. Thanks for your comments Jerry, Dave, Curt, Mike and Larry.
I like it better too, but I didn't want to color too many of the stones
because it would look like a checkerboard, so I've heard. Subtle is the best.

Working on the base to get this established and some details.

Rich

Rich,

I'll agree with the others, much better and looks natural to me.

Tom

Quote from: ACL1504 on December 07, 2025, 11:33:38 AMRich,

I'll agree with the others, much better and looks natural to me.

Tom

Thank you, Tom.
I need to do more of this type of build, so that I don't feel intimidated
when it comes to the coloring process.

Rich

Quote from: ACL1504 on December 07, 2025, 11:33:38 AMRich,

I'll agree with the others, much better and looks natural to me.

Tom

I totally agree.

Rich, I think your walls look great!
I can't believe you still have all of those Floquil stains.
You lucky duck, I'm on my last few bottles of the stuff and will miss them when they are gone.

Greg

Quote from: Ensign on December 09, 2025, 09:26:43 AMRich, I think your walls look great!
I can't believe you still have all of those Floquil stains.
You lucky duck, I'm on my last few bottles of the stuff and will miss them when they are gone.

Greg

Yeah,,,, he kidnapping material with that loot....... ;)

Quote from: Rick on December 08, 2025, 07:21:17 AM

Quote from: ACL1504 on December 07, 2025, 11:33:38 AMRich,

I'll agree with the others, much better and looks natural to me.

Tom

I totally agree.

Thanks again Tom & Rick, I think I'm going to add a little more of the stains, it's still too dark for the most of it.

Rich

Quote from: Ensign on December 09, 2025, 09:26:43 AMRich, I think your walls look great!
I can't believe you still have all of those Floquil stains.
You lucky duck, I'm on my last few bottles of the stuff and will miss them when they are gone.

Greg

Thanks Greg. I have a wholesome supply of floquil paints and stains.
I search for them and buy them when they are the cheapest. So far, I have lucked out.
If I could liquidate the material objects in my train room, I have more objects than money.
Whatever that means!  :) With over 300 kits, some say I live in a hobby shop... my wife came in
the other day, and of course, I now keep the door locked! LOL   ;D

Rich

Quote from: Philip on December 09, 2025, 09:29:57 AM

Quote from: Ensign on December 09, 2025, 09:26:43 AMRich, I think your walls look great!
I can't believe you still have all of those Floquil stains.
You lucky duck, I'm on my last few bottles of the stuff and will miss them when they are gone.

Greg

Yeah,,,, he kidnapping material with that loot....... ;)

Phillip - What do you mean? I only have 155 bottles of floquil paints or so...  :)

Rich

 ;D I was at a sale and picked up about 60 bottles for $20. Mostly unopened.

Quote from: Philip on December 10, 2025, 08:12:03 AM;D I was at a sale and picked up about 60 bottles for $20. Mostly unopened.

Wow! Phillip, that's amazing! Good for you.
That's like if I die before my wife and she has no where to sell my kits,
whoever goes to Goodwill will be a happy camper.  :)

Rich

I have a metal cabinet drawer full of Floquil paint bottles. Haven't opened that drawer in 30 years, unless I opened it by mistake, looking for something else.

Quote from: Pennman on December 10, 2025, 08:46:17 AM

Quote from: Philip on December 10, 2025, 08:12:03 AM;D I was at a sale and picked up about 60 bottles for $20. Mostly unopened.

Wow! Phillip, that's amazing! Good for you.
That's like if I die before my wife and she has no where to sell my kits,
whoever goes to Goodwill will be a happy camper.  :)

Rich,  I mispoke. Those bottles are polly scale after double checking. So much for the nest egg~ ;D 

Rich

Hello folks,

It's almost been two weeks since I posted to this thread, sorry for the delay.
I have been unable to sit comfortably at my work bench due to complications with
my medical problem. I went to see my Doctor yesterday, and although she thinks
I'm doing ok, she has no idea how this feels to me.

I'm working in bits and spirts on the diorama and will update when I can get a
substantial amount completed. Stay tuned.

Rich

Rich, hope you feel better soon.

Get well soon my friend. I will assume you will be unable to travel this weekend.
Best wishes and more importantly prayers for a faster recovery.

Dave

Took you long enough to go to the Dr.'s.
She doesn't know how it feels it not her leg!!!  :)

I hope you feel better.

Jerry

Sounds like a Tom Petty tune.

"You don't know how I feel"

Thanks Rick, Dave, & Jerry.

Jerry, what? They don't make housecalls anymore?   ;D

Rich

I hope you feel better quickly.

Quote from: PRR Modeler on December 12, 2025, 11:22:40 AMI hope you feel better quickly.

Thanks Curt. Me too brother!!

Rich

Rich I just read thur the whole thread. Outstanding modeling. Great workmanship. I to think stone building looks better now. I hope you get to feeling better.

Quote from: Mike the Trainman on December 12, 2025, 04:43:10 PMRich I just read thur the whole thread. Outstanding modeling. Great workmanship. I to think stone building looks better now. I hope you get to feeling better.

Thanks for your kind words regarding my modeling. Your name sounds familiar, as I
think we might have crossed a path or two from being on the RR Line Forums. Didn't you
do some stone structures from the Thomas A. Yorke collection?

Rich

I did some stone structures on RR-L but not any from the Thomas A. York collection. I mostly work with Sculpey modeling clay (the kind you bake in the oven). I did a SBS on how I made stone blocks using clay. I don't remember ::) if I got around to posting any builds. I think I did one on the sea wall on the water front.

Mike

Are you any better Rich?  It sucks being down.

Philip

Quote from: Philip on December 15, 2025, 11:27:29 AMAre you any better Rich?  It sucks being down.

Philip

Yes, Phillip, thanks for asking. I'm slowly getting back to modeling.
My problem now is if I sit too long at my workbench, my leg swells up on me.
My Doctor says it will take a long time to heal fully, so I do a little, walk around some,
and do a little more. If I do too much , my CEO will have me doing another 1:1 project.  ;D
And we don't want that  :)  I might do another update in a couple more days.

Rich

Rich glad to hear you're feeling better but ease into those 1:1's; you wouldn't want to mess that leg up.

Good news!  ;D

I hate 1:1 projects
I still have the Halloween decorations up

Dave

Quote from: Dave Buchholz on Today at 07:34:29 AMI hate 1:1 projects
I still have the Halloween decorations up

Dave

Cool!  You will scare Santa away! More $$ to spend on trains!  LOL

Rich

PS: TODAY IS NOT MY BIRTHDAY, IT'S DEC. 22ND INSTEAD!
I NOTICED ON BOTTOM OF OPENING PAGE IT IS LISTED AS TODAY.

Rich, happy it's not your birthday day.  ;D

Glad the leg is feeling better.

Quote from: Rick on Today at 08:07:28 AMRich, happy it's not your birthday day.  ;D

Glad the leg is feeling better.

Thanks Rick, yeah, glad I'm not older yet!  8)
Thanks for the well-wishes.

Rich