When the BTS barn is finished, I'll start my next build thread. I've had the Carolina Craftsman Kit #11599, Doc Koontz Corner Store for 10+ years.
I decided on this kit for two reasons. I found a spot for it and it will be a challenge.
This kit is basically a flat iron structure and won't just fit anywhere. Now, I have a spot.
When Jeff Grove, owner of CCK, released this kit, he mentioned on his site that the kit is extremely difficult to build. I took this as a challenge and to push my modeling skills. After ten years, I'm finally getting to the build.
Jeff Grove joined Jason Jenson on a couple of the CCK kits. Jeff was a very active member of this forum prior to Jimmy D. closing the doors. We can all be very happy that Jim Donovan has taken over the forum. Jeff has a few YouTube videos on his layout.
I've never seen this kit built.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231125142029-563391224.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231125142029-563402402.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231125142029-563412397.jpeg)
I don't know who built the pilot model but it does appear to have it's challenges.
A close up of the photo above shows the structure not fitting on the base. And, the right wall appears to bow outwards. It is obvious in the above photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231125142029-56342102.jpeg)
The roof doesn't fit and the cupola roof is off center. There is squeezed glue between the cupola windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231125142029-563431507.jpeg)
I'll do my best to do this kit justice.
There are a few hundred parts to the kit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231125142106-563441134.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231125142106-5634527.jpeg)
Here is where it will occupy real estate.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231125142106-563462305.jpeg)
Across from the Flat Iron District structures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231125142106-5634786.jpeg)
Located on the south end of the Dixie Hwy.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-231125142106-56348385.jpeg)
What a perfect location for this skewed kit! I'll be enjoying this build, although I've found that CCK instructions could occasionally be "sparse". Jeff said writing instructions was his least favorite part of producing kits.
dave
I'll definitely be following along Tom. I know it will be perfect when you build it.
Great structure pick, it will be fun I am sure.
Correct me if I'm wrong, (which I probably am) ;) ,
but the pilot model looks like something Jerry would have constructed...
and you know his builds are so far and between we may never get to see
another one., until I'm older and grayer! ;D
Have fun with this Tom, I'm sure you will do it justice, and then some.
Rich
Well, it looks like you're in business, have a building permit and a lot laid out.
Complex challenge.
Yup, I'll be watching this one Tom as you work your modeling magic. Have fun.
Tom, looks like this one will be a challenge and will be watching you work your magic.
Howdy Tom,
That's a great kit, but I'm not sure it will be a real challenge for you. Just throw the instructions away, then it will be a real challenge.
It looks like a lot of fun to build.
Have fun,
mike
Yowzah! That looks like quite a challenge. I'll be following along! ;)
Tom I have full confidence in you building this!! I'm sure in the end it will be another perfect build!
Jerry
Morning, Tom.
I'm really looking forward to watching you tackle this one. They have some great designs, but most of the pilot models look a little off, which has kept me away (that and the exchange rate!). I'll be interested to see how well things turn out with a modeller of your experience, and whether that will make the difference or whether it is the fit of all those pieces.
I'm wondering whether the warped wall is just the bend of the camera lens? There appear to be tabs left on the bottom of the right wall, so getting the structure to sit flat might be as simple as removing those. Anyway. watching with interest and excitement.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: deemery on November 23, 2025, 02:58:16 PMWhat a perfect location for this skewed kit! I'll be enjoying this build, although I've found that CCK instructions could occasionally be "sparse". Jeff said writing instructions was his least favorite part of producing kits.
dave
Dave,
Thanks for following along on this adventure. I agree, Jeff didn't like writing instructions. When I built his Rural Post Office and Store, he used many of my posts on the build to add to his updated instructions.
Here is that build.
https://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=3415.0Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on November 23, 2025, 03:17:38 PMI'll definitely be following along Tom. I know it will be perfect when you build it.
Curt Butty,
Thanks very much for taking a seat on this ride.
Tom
Quote from: Pennman on November 23, 2025, 04:25:37 PMGreat structure pick, it will be fun I am sure.
Correct me if I'm wrong, (which I probably am) ;) ,
but the pilot model looks like something Jerry would have constructed...
and you know his builds are so far and between we may never get to see
another one., until I'm older and grayer! ;D
Have fun with this Tom, I'm sure you will do it justice, and then some.
Rich
Rich,
Thank you for following along. Not sure which Jerry you are referring to but I have no idea who built this pilot model.
Tom
Quote from: KentuckySouthern on November 23, 2025, 04:51:34 PMWell, it looks like you're in business, have a building permit and a lot laid out.
Complex challenge.
Karl,
It will be a challenge for sure. Permit in hand, property purchased and waiting on the builder. 8)
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on November 23, 2025, 05:02:10 PMYup, I'll be watching this one Tom as you work your modeling magic. Have fun.
Larry,
I appreciate you following but, I'm not sure about the magic part.
Tom
Quote from: GaryMc on November 23, 2025, 07:52:09 PMTom, looks like this one will be a challenge and will be watching you work your magic.
Gary,
Okay, now the pressure is on. Thanks for jumping on to follow.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on November 23, 2025, 08:05:54 PMHowdy Tom,
That's a great kit, but I'm not sure it will be a real challenge for you. Just throw the instructions away, then it will be a real challenge.
It looks like a lot of fun to build.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thank you, I would throw the instructions away but there aren't any to throw away! ;D
I believe it will be a fun build.
Tom
Quote from: ReadingBob on November 24, 2025, 10:33:03 AMYowzah! That looks like quite a challenge. I'll be following along! ;)
Bob,
Yepper, you got that right. Appreciate you taking a seat on this one.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on November 24, 2025, 11:28:53 AMTom I have full confidence in you building this!! I'm sure in the end it will be another perfect build!
Jerry
Jerry,
Well now, at least I have you fooled. Nah, just kidding, it will be a challenge but a fun one to see to the end.
Tom
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on November 24, 2025, 01:14:49 PMMorning, Tom.
I'm really looking forward to watching you tackle this one. They have some great designs, but most of the pilot models look a little off, which has kept me away (that and the exchange rate!). I'll be interested to see how well things turn out with a modeller of your experience, and whether that will make the difference or whether it is the fit of all those pieces.
I'm wondering whether the warped wall is just the bend of the camera lens? There appear to be tabs left on the bottom of the right wall, so getting the structure to sit flat might be as simple as removing those. Anyway. watching with interest and excitement.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
I agree, many of Jeff's, although great kits, pilot models look off on the box photos. It does appear to me all the pieces are laser cut very well but time will tell.
I was a crime scene photographer while on the PD. The wall is definitely warped. It you go back and look at the photo again, you'll notice the corner trim is straight. The bottom and top portion of the wall is bowed in.
Tom
I decided to look closely over the kit parts and familiarize myself with subassemblies. I also counted the parts, 235+ of parts and pieces.
There are no instructions, but Jeff did a great job of showing all the subassemblies in exploded views. Eight pages of front and back drawings.
I did find two broken pieces. These may have broken when I first open the box many, many years ago. This was the first start of the build as these two pieces were missing from the front wall.
The right end lower wall section was broken off. I didn't find it in the box.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241125163300-56362684.jpeg)
The left end bottom wall tab was also broken off.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241125163300-56363842.jpeg)
These needed to be fixed first.
Note the two carrier sheets in the below photo. I was hoping to find a wall section from these two.
The one on the left is to thin and the right one is to wide.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241125163300-563641554.jpeg)
I measured and cut one from one of the blanks on the right carrier in the photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241125163300-56365641.jpeg)
The right wall section is very fragile. I didn't feel that just by end gluing,
the two parts would hold.
I then cut the broken wall part off flush with the bottom of the upper wall.
I used a small length of an HO scale 2X8 and glued it to the back of the new piece.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241125163300-563662295.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241125163339-56367207.jpeg)
I then glued the 2X8 to the back of the upper wall section. When dry, I trimmed the 2X8 off the top and cut the new wall section even with the other wall pillars.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241125163339-56368353.jpeg)
I used the same technique for the left wall tab.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241125163339-563691614.jpeg)
I placed a heavy metal ruler on the front wall and let the glue dry on the repaired left wall tab.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241125163339-5637060.jpeg)
When the glue dried, I trimmed the tab to the length of the other two. I made a test fit of the repaired front wall into the base. Everything fit as it should and the front wall section in now repaired and level on the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-241125163339-56371162.jpeg)
Done for today.
I will follow your effort on this one too..
Look like a difficult kit...
Eric Québec
Great repairs Tom. I have a feeling that this build will be very fiddly.
Nice fix, Tom.
dave
Quote from: EricQuebec on November 24, 2025, 05:03:15 PMI will follow your effort on this one too..
Look like a difficult kit...
Eric Québec
Eric,
Thank you my friend. I'm always happy to have a master model builder following along.
It does appear to be a difficult kit but, I'm looking forward to the build.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on November 24, 2025, 05:12:22 PMGreat repairs Tom. I have a feeling that this build will be very fiddly.
Butty Curt,
Thanks and yes, I believe it will be a fiddly build.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on November 24, 2025, 05:22:45 PMNice fix, Tom.
dave
Dave,
Thank you for the comment, much appreciated.
Tom
We will call you Mr. Fixit from now on!!! :)
Great job and thinking Tom.
Jerry
Well, late to the party and the only seat was fourth row aisle..but I still have a good view. I'll get caught up on the instant reply
terry
Quietly standing in the back of the room.
This is my first chance to comment on this build.
Like others have already said, I know you're up for the challenges of this build but you will overcome them and build an outstanding model.
I see You've already encountered some issues but have easily overcome them.
Surprised you've started this before finishing the barn.
Quote from: Jerry on November 25, 2025, 09:51:31 AMWe will call you Mr. Fixit from now on!!! :)
Great job and thinking Tom.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks, in my past LE career, I have been called much worse. So Mr. Fixit is fine by me. 8)
Your nice compliment is appreciated.
Tom
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on November 25, 2025, 11:31:08 AMWell, late to the party and the only seat was fourth row aisle..but I still have a good view. I'll get caught up on the instant reply
terry
Terry,
You are welcome early or late. The party will last for a while.
Tom
Quote from: BandOGuy on November 25, 2025, 04:03:37 PMQuietly standing in the back of the room.
Chip. AKA: vettelover,
Good to see you my friend. Have a seat, you may be standing for some time. ;D
Tom
Quote from: Rick on November 25, 2025, 06:57:48 PMThis is my first chance to comment on this build.
Like others have already said, I know you're up for the challenges of this build but you will overcome them and build an outstanding model.
I see You've already encountered some issues but have easily overcome them.
Surprised you've started this before finishing the barn.
Rick,
That you for vote of confidence. I'm looking forward to this one. I hope the small repair is the only issue but I fear I'll find more.
Yea, the barn is 95% finished and will be completed this weekend.
Tom
I spent several hours studying the drawing and parts. I'll spend more time on them again this evening.
Some of the parts are numbered wrong or just not in the correct place on the carrier sheet. One carrier sheet has a part number on it with 7 parts. Only two of the part #'s are correct. Looking at the sheet it would appear all 7 parts are that number yet obviously not the same shape.
When Jeff designed this kit, he did the wall in wood siding. I'm not sure who made the original kit of the corner store but, the walls in that first kit were brick.
Moving on, I spent a few days along with Reading Bob and John Siekirk visiting and photographing the F&SM layout. George was very gracious and let several of us come up for about 6 hours prior to the open house.
Here is the model on the F&SM layout in Peabody, MA. I took the photos.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261125171933-5638150.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261125171933-563821051.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261125171934-563832228.jpeg)
Notice a second corner store in the background.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261125171934-56384100.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261125171934-563851752.jpeg)
Rich also sent a few photo of the original kit. He advised this one was sold on Ebay.
Not as well made as the one George built.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261125172019-56386890.jpeg)
Done for today.
I do like the brick version better, if you could pull that off with the kit parts...
dave
The second one looks like it has very oversized windows on the second floor.
Quote from: deemery on November 26, 2025, 05:34:12 PMI do like the brick version better, if you could pull that off with the kit parts...
dave
Dave,
I do also. I have no idea who made the first version. This will be fun challenge for me.
I like the brick version but if you look at them both, the brick version is much different.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on November 26, 2025, 06:19:20 PMThe second one looks like it has very oversized windows on the second floor.
Curt,
It does appear so for sure. They are large windows but still fit the structure.
Tom
I mentioned I spent several hours looking over the diagrams and parts.
Well, I spent a few more hours doing the same. Finally, it all started to come together for me.
This next photo shows the parts that go on both upper bay windows.
I figured out the unmarked parts were parts #53. I marked the number on the part.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301125160802-56395372.jpeg)
Notice anything else wrong with the carrier sheet?
The upper part of T1 and T2 are not laser cut all the way across like the parts below them. I'll need to cut them myself. No problem.
For such a high quality manufacturer there seems to be a lot of issues.
Each bay window is made up of 13 parts. However, I could only find 12 parts. Then I found them on the thicker sheet of parts.
The two parts are on the lower right side of this sheet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301125160802-56397393.jpeg)
These are both part #116.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301125160802-56398770.jpeg)
Here are the 13 parts that make up one bay window. Of course, the doesn't include the corbels.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-301125160803-563991100.jpeg)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on November 30, 2025, 04:21:02 PMFor such a high quality manufacturer there seems to be a lot of issues.
Curt,
I agree, this isn't one of Jeff's better kits.
Tom
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 26, 2025, 05:27:36 PM(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261125171934-563851752.jpeg)
Rich also send a few photo of the original kit. He advised this one was sold on Ebay.
Not as well made as the one George built.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261125172019-56386890.jpeg)
Done for today.
Tom,
My Bad,
I searched again today the pictures I sent earlier thinking the second one sold on Ebay, No. It was actually found on Facebook, here's the original caption, and date:
The Craftsman Courtyard
Jeff Grove
·
September 25, 2021
·
.....by popular request....our old Doc Koontz store now in brick....thanks to Stephen Milley at Rail-Scale Models, we've converted this structure to prototypical brick.....a nice, tough to build craftsman kit....with exceptional results....great window details and effects.....
I'm still unknowing who the builder was, unless it was Jeff Grove.
Rich
Rich,
I checked Stephen RSM site and found no mention of this kit. He does offer some of Jeff's old kits with his permission to release.
I'll call Jeff later this afternoon and get the history, if any on this kit. I know this kit was on the F&SM layout in 2016 when I last visited George. Also, the kit on the F&SM is definitely not like the brick one shown below. The front is very similar but the rear is totally different.
The two huge bay windows don't really look like they would be on a wood walled structure.
Tom
I forgot to mention that this kit is discussed on Jeff Grove's layout tour. You can see and hear the information at the 5:20 mark in the video.
Apparently, many versions of this kit were done by a few manufacturers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ooMLHovLxoQ
Tom
Quote from: ACL1504 on December 01, 2025, 07:33:33 AMRich,
I checked Stephen RSM site and found no mention of this kit. He does offer some of Jeff's old kits with his permission to release.
I'll call Jeff later this afternoon and get the history, if any on this kit. I know this kit was on the F&SM layout in 2016 when I last visited George. Also, the kit on the F&SM is definitely not like the brick one shown below. The front is very similar but the rear is totally different.
The two huge bay windows don't really look like they would be on a wood walled structure.
Tom
Tom,
Maybe when you speak to Jeff, he may have a scan of the instructions for the kit.
You may not need them with you're being a prolific modeler, but they might come in handy.
Rich
I spoke with Jeff Grove this afternoon. It was great getting caught up again.
I didn't ask for any instructions as I really don't need them and probably wouldn't follow them. His exploded diagrams are enough for the better than average modeler to follow in building the kit.
He did say Stephen Milley of RSM cut the brick walls for him since Jeff had him laser cutting other brick walls.
We laughed when I said he never liked writing instructions. I did tell him I was building the kit on this forum and invited him to follow along.
So, I'm going to proceed with the wood walls as it will be just another build for me, even as a challenge.
My plan is to build this structure in three phases or sub assemblies. The main structure, both bay windows and the turret style windows.
Tom
Tom,
I'm glad you have it all figured out and I had no doubt you wouldn't find a path.
I'll be looking forward to how you proceed with this build.
Rich
Quote from: Pennman on December 02, 2025, 04:00:39 PMTom,
I'm glad you have it all figured out and I had no doubt you wouldn't find a path.
I'll be looking forward to how you proceed with this build.
Rich
Rich,
Thank you for following along. I'm anxious to get started.
Tom
One of the first things I did was to make sure the wall tabs fit easily into the base slots.
Once the walls are stained and painted, I'll do another test fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061225152556-56400345.jpeg)
The gaps between the walls is where a corner trim.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061225152556-56401752.jpeg)
You can see from this top view just how narrow the building appears.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061225152556-56402823.jpeg)
There is a very thin floor section that will be glued to the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061225152556-5640390.jpeg)
Looks like good progress Tom.
Here is how the floor fits into the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061225152617-56405833.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061225152556-5640390.jpeg)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on December 06, 2025, 04:38:34 PMLooks like good progress Tom.
Curt,
Yes, I had time to get some work on it done the past few days.
Tom
I made a test fit with the base and all slot openings are clear.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061225152556-564041404.jpeg)
I stained the floor with Floquii Oak Flo-Stain.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061225162818-564061881.jpeg)
I painted the sidewalk with Floquil Aged Concrete.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061225163727-56407478.jpeg)
Here is the concrete base and the oak stained floor section. Not yet glued together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-061225163728-56408361.jpeg)
Done for today.
Nice work so far Tom.
That sure looks like a tiny interior.
Rich
Nice start Tom.
That is a skinny floor for sure!
Jerry
Tom, you've got a nice base ready to build on.
Howdy Tom, Floquil aged concrete paint is my favorite for concrete. Nice work on the base. Have fun, mike
Tom,
I don't know how I missed this thread but I'm glad I found it.
You are off to a great start on the kit. The concrete colour looks great. Looking forward to the next update.
Quote from: Pennman on December 06, 2025, 11:04:26 PMNice work so far Tom.
That sure looks like a tiny interior.
Rich
Rich,
Thank you and yes, the interior is small. I won't attempt to add details.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on December 06, 2025, 11:09:28 PMNice start Tom.
That is a skinny floor for sure!
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks, and I agree. not much room for furniture.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on December 07, 2025, 06:41:49 AMTom, you've got a nice base ready to build on.
Rick,
Yes, I'm not a big fan of the slot and tab but on this one it is very helpful.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on December 07, 2025, 08:27:20 AMHowdy Tom, Floquil aged concrete paint is my favorite for concrete. Nice work on the base. Have fun, mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thanks very much. I use the Floquil Aged Concrete on many builds.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on December 07, 2025, 10:08:40 AMTom,
I don't know how I missed this thread but I'm glad I found it.
You are off to a great start on the kit. The concrete colour looks great. Looking forward to the next update.
Philip,
Well, I'm happy to have you here now. This is a challenge but, I've enjoyed the build.
Next update will be later this afternoon.
Tom
Hi Tom, very interested in seeing you complete this kit. Looks challenging, not something for beginners. Thanks for all the pictures and updates. As always, following along. Mark
Quote from: craftsmankits on December 07, 2025, 01:46:18 PMHi Tom, very interested in seeing you complete this kit. Looks challenging, not something for beginners. Thanks for all the pictures and updates. As always, following along. Mark
Mark,
Happy to have you along on the journey. It is a challenge but, I feel it will be worth it in the end. I like to add lots of pictures on my builds to cover all the steps.
Tom
When building a kit, I like to make sure all the pieces line up. This is especially true of this structure. There are many slots and tabs to this one and prior to painting I want to resolve any issues.
The exploded diagram in the next photo is what I worked on today.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135652-564092477.jpeg)
The back wall is part #2 and the second floor base is #5 as shown.
#5 fits into the slots on the rear wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135652-564101419.jpeg)
Jeff Grove designed the kit so the second floor will only fit one way.
Refer to the next two photos to see how the slots and tabs align.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135652-564111664.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135652-56412459.jpeg)
With the floor in place, I used a pencil to mark above and below the floor panel.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135652-56413471.jpeg)
Referring to the rear wall, the kit diagram shows bracing above the floor but not below it.
I plan on adding bracing to the lower portion of the rear wall. I marked in red where I need to avoid interfering with the floor.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135756-56414701.jpeg)
I determined this part was #8. Again, all parts are not numbered. Make sure you have and know what part goes where.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135756-56415105.jpeg)
And, this part as #10.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135756-56416256.jpeg)
Here are the parts I'll test fit for now. Nothing is glued at this point in the build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135756-564172332.jpeg)
Part #8 is to be fit into the slot on the bottom of part #5.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135756-56418706.jpeg)
In the next photo you can see I've added the left end wall to the assembly. The end wall is part #3.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135838-564192397.jpeg)
Notice the notch on the end of the floor, This lets the brace fit on the wall in one piece.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135838-56420159.jpeg)
I marked the edges of where the brace is to be glued to the end wall. Make sure the brace is glued correctly. Once glued to the wall, you don't want to have to try and remove it to the correction position.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135838-564211629.jpeg)
Back in a few, Diet Pepsi break time.
Again referring to the diagram, part #10 is to be glued to #5.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135652-564092477.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135916-56424999.jpeg)
I determined that this process was best done when I had the two parts on the work bench. This way I made sure the two parts were at the exact 90 degrees.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135838-564222500.jpeg)
There is very little surface on these two parts to glue. I cut a small 10X10 block and glued it inside the two pieces.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135838-564232170.jpeg)
Now these two parts are much stronger.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135916-5642527.jpeg)
Done for today.
Tom...with sll the notches and slots it's kinda like "foot bone connected to ankle bone, ankle bone connected to, and so on.
Always informative to follow your builds
terry
Very informative Tom.
Tom,
With any of your builds, you always show expert knowledge of what goes where.
This kit looks like it was well thought out by the manufacturer. The addition of
that full-length brace through both floors makes perfect sense to thwart any
anticipated warping. Thanks for sharing.
Rich
Tom, good idea making sure everything lines up before construction begins.
Odd that bracing was supposed to go above the floor.
At least it looks like all the slots and tabs line up.
I like the way you make sure everything is going to fit before moving forward!
Jerry
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on December 07, 2025, 02:52:54 PMTom...with sll the notches and slots it's kinda like "foot bone connected to ankle bone, ankle bone connected to, and so on.
Always informative to follow your builds
terry
Terry,
Yes, funny in that it all is connected in some way or another.
Happy you are now informed - ;D Thanks for following along.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on December 07, 2025, 06:13:54 PMVery informative Tom.
Curt,
I'm finding I'm close to spending more time on the prep work than the actual build.
Tom
Quote from: Pennman on December 08, 2025, 06:34:48 AMTom,
With any of your builds, you always show expert knowledge of what goes where.
This kit looks like it was well thought out by the manufacturer. The addition of
that full-length brace through both floors makes perfect sense to thwart any
anticipated warping. Thanks for sharing.
Rich
Rich,
Thanks very much, I try to explain it as I go. Jeff did a great job this one. I now understand why there is no instructions, the exploded views are well done. I'll add some additional bracing else where. With our humi9dity here, it is best.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on December 08, 2025, 07:17:30 AMTom, good idea making sure everything lines up before construction begins.
Odd that bracing was supposed to go above the floor.
At least it looks like all the slots and tabs line up.
Rick,
The bracing is a start but more will be added as I feel it is necessary. However, not all slots and tabs line up. More on this later this afternoon.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on December 08, 2025, 11:14:54 AMI like the way you make sure everything is going to fit before moving forward!
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you also. I felt is was especially necessary on this kit since there were no instructions.
I don't want any surprises down the road in the build.
Tom
The floor was glued to the concrete base, weighted until the glue was thoroughly dry - over night.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135916-56427739.jpeg)
The bracing was glued to the side wall, #3. If building this kit, be sure you leave space at the bottom for the brace to clear the thickness of floor. If you don't use the floor, then no worries.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-081225121238-564481855.jpeg)
All four of the parts, #53, were also test fitted in the slots. These are the only parts of the two bay window that have tabs that fit into the front wall. These fit nicely with no adjustments necessary.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135916-564281562.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-071225135933-564291093.jpeg)
Here is how it looks at this time. Nothing is glued other than the brace on wall #3.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-081225121055-564302371.jpeg)
Everything seems to be level.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-081225121055-564321497.jpeg)
Front wall test fit with no issues.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-081225121055-56431486.jpeg)
One day I may be able to paint this baby. But, for now, there is another major issue with the canopy on the front.
Here are the three pieces that make up the canopy/awning. There is a bottom, middle and top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-081225121055-564331872.jpeg)
I identified the three parts, #16, and test fit them in the slots, no issues here.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-081225121055-56434303.jpeg)
The top and middle slots and tab align. However, the bottom is off.
In the next photo you can see the problem. The tabs align except the tab on the left is too long.
Notice also the slots don't align and the bottom of the canopy is shorter on the right and longer on the left.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-081225121129-5643517.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-081225121129-564361990.jpeg)
If you align the top and middle with the slots, the tabs are off.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-081225121129-564371425.jpeg)
Done for now. I'll show you my fix later this afternoon.
Tom, looks like you are making great progress on a complex kit. Definitely not a kit for beginners.
Great progress Tom. I look forward to seeing your fix.
Quote from: elwoodblues on December 08, 2025, 02:20:58 PMTom, looks like you are making great progress on a complex kit. Definitely not a kit for beginners.
Ron,
Just like the Jelly of the Month Club in Christmas Vacation, this kit just keeps giving.
Yes, progress is being made but I'm getting anxious to get it together.
Definitely not for beginners.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on December 08, 2025, 03:06:56 PMGreat progress Tom. I look forward to seeing your fix.
Curt,
Thanks Butty, the fix was fairly simple but took some time.
Tom
As I mentioned, the fix was simple for me but was a bit time consuming.
The only way to fix the problem was to make a new and correct bottom part of the canopy.
The bottom canopy part is 1/16" thick. The other two sections are 1/32" thick. Obviously, I didn't want to use the bottom part of the canopy as a pattern. If I did so, I'd have a second bad part.
I found a basswood sheet in my wood supply drawer. It happens to be a Midwest Product and not Northeastern.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-081225121130-564381275.jpeg)
Prior to making a copy and cutting the basswood, I made sure the one corner was square.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-081225121130-564391905.jpeg)
I placed the middle section on the new basswood and made sure it was aligned on top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-081225121203-5644174.jpeg)
I also wanted a sharp pencil point. I used a piece of cardboard and rubbed the pencil lead on the cardboard. Using a sheet of paper will work but, won't give you the sharp point that rubbing it on the cardboard will give you.
You can see the point is very sharp/pointed. Using a very pointed pencil lead will give you a better trace line.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-081225121203-564401181.jpeg)
A little fast forward and the new section was traced and the slots were cut out using a fresh #11 blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-081225121203-5644272.jpeg)
Notice I didn't cut out the tabs on top yet. This will require a little more effort to cut it to match the middle section.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-081225121203-5644337.jpeg)
Before I moved on to cutting around the tabs, I made sure I had a tight fit for the angle supports. I did.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-081225121203-56444620.jpeg)
I then began to slowly and carefully cut the area around each tab. I made sure sure each cut matched the part I used as a pattern.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-081225121238-56445515.jpeg)
I sanded the new part here and there to get the perfect match.
Fast forward here and almost an hour+ later, the new part is a carbon of the middle part. The new canopy section is on the top and the old is on the bottom. Notice how the slots are now aligned with and centered to the tabs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-081225121238-5644650.jpeg)
Now all three sections of the canopy fit together. Notice that each end of the canopy now has an equal amount of overhang on each side of the front wall.
The canopy now fits nicely in the slots in the front wall section.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-081225121238-56447426.jpeg)
Done for today.
Tom nice fixing the the alignment on the pieces!!
Jerry
Very nice fix Tom.
Tom, I knew you'd come up with a good fix.
Nice job fixing that mess.
Did it include a neon sign flashing "Don't buy Me". ;D
Philip
Tom good thing you're an experienced kit builder; that looks like a "nightmare on any street". Great job coming up with viable solutions for this thing.
Tom,
Nice work on the corrections, I guess this is why they are called "craftsmen kits", looking forward to more of the build.
Tom,
We are happy to see that Mr. Fix-it, fixed it! ;D
Using your expertise, you could come up with a whole new kit
using the same principles in this last fix. Nice job.
Rich
Just caught up with this build Tom, I'm amazed at the many problems you are having with this kit, but the usual great job with solving the problem areas. I hope that photo of the finished building wasn't used for marketing, the build looked like it was done in a rush and came out looking bad.
I'll look forward seeing how this one finishes..... 8)
Quote from: Jerry on December 08, 2025, 05:04:18 PMTom nice fixing the the alignment on the pieces!!
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you, much appreciate the comment.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on December 08, 2025, 07:14:57 PMTom, I knew you'd come up with a good fix.
Rick,
Thank you, it was an easy fix but time consuming.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on December 08, 2025, 10:10:23 PMNice job fixing that mess.
Did it include a neon sign flashing "Don't buy Me". ;D
Philip
Philip,
Thank you also. No it didn't. However, on Jeff's web site he did say in the description that this kit wasn't for the beginner or intermediate modeler. He advise it was a hard kit to build.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on December 09, 2025, 03:16:09 PMTom good thing you're an experienced kit builder; that looks like a "nightmare on any street". Great job coming up with viable solutions for this thing.
Larry,
This kit was a challenge from the start. Jeff, did advise it wasn't an easy kit and I bought it as a challenge. I like the design and am happy with what I've done to this point in the build.
Tom
Quote from: GaryMc on December 10, 2025, 10:51:09 AMTom,
Nice work on the corrections, I guess this is why they are called "craftsmen kits", looking forward to more of the build.
Gary,
I agree, this is a small one but still very much a "Craftsman Kit". Thank you for following along.
Tom
Quote from: Pennman on December 10, 2025, 04:53:49 PMTom,
We are happy to see that Mr. Fix-it, fixed it! ;D
Using your expertise, you could come up with a whole new kit
using the same principles in this last fix. Nice job.
Rich
Rich,
Good to see you again. Mr. Fix-it is as good a name as some I've been called. ;D
I would have really loved to build this one with the brick walls. I missed that opportunity along the way.
And, thank you for the kind compliment!
Tom
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 11, 2025, 02:47:03 PMJust caught up with this build Tom, I'm amazed at the many problems you are having with this kit, but the usual great job with solving the problem areas. I hope that photo of the finished building wasn't used for marketing, the build looked like it was done in a rush and came out looking bad.
I'll look forward seeing how this one finishes..... 8)
Greg,
Thank you for stopping by. I know you've been very busy in the 1:1 world.
I've never seen the peach colored building other than on the box cover. Jeff has a blue colored one on his layout. He also had Steve of RSM laser cut the walls in brick.
This will be a great looking structure when finished.
Tom
I did get the bracing done on the main building. The braces marked in red are ones I added. Since there is humidity in Central Fl., the added bracing was necessary. I'll have more in a few. Need to fix something for Pam and get a Diet Pepsi.
T
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111225170720-564491348.jpeg)
I changed the suggested way to brace the rear subassembly.
Referring to the next photo, the wall section on the right has the suggested bracing. I marked in pencil the level of the rear wall bracing and added the two short braces instead of the on long brace on each side wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111225170720-564501935.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111225170720-564511.jpeg)
Now the bracing is more sturdy.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111225170720-564522392.jpeg)
This subassembly fits on the rear of the corner strore.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111225170721-56453469.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-111225170739-56454229.jpeg)
I'll paint the walls tomorrow and add that to the thread.
Done for today.
I was bracing for an unexpected problem to arrive, but all looks well. ;)
Quote from: Rick on December 11, 2025, 06:08:58 PMI was bracing for an unexpected problem to arrive, but all looks well. ;)
Rick,
Brace yourself, the build isn't over yet.
Tom
Tom looks great. This build thread is bracing!
Tom,
It is always a joy to watch you construct a building and your added components.
I learn from your builds.
Rich
Quote from: PRR Modeler on December 11, 2025, 07:49:27 PMTom looks great. This build thread is bracing!
Curt,
You are correct and I'm looking forward to the finished product.
Tom
Quote from: Pennman on December 11, 2025, 10:46:09 PMTom,
It is always a joy to watch you construct a building and your added components.
I learn from your builds.
Rich
Rich,
Thank you for the very kind and generous compliment on this build and others. Always happy to pass on what I've learned from others tutelage.
Tom
I used Floquil Zinc Chromate Primer for the main wall color. It appears red in the photos, but it is more of a brownish tone.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121225182526-564601087.jpeg)
I was about to add the 4X4 corner trim and realized I skipped an important step. When the laser cuts the wood, it does so on a very slight angle. This angle is referred to as a "kerf". If you hold a wall section up and view down the edge, you will be able to see the slight angle.
This is especially true if you hand cut your own walls like I do when scratch building. My cuts are not always at 90 degrees.
If you apply the corner trim without doing this next step, you run the risk of having a gap between the wall section and corner trim.
Unfortunately, I've seen very nice models look sloppy as the gap is quite obvious.
I place the wall edge on a sanding stick and lightly move the wall back and forth until the "Kerf" is removed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121225182526-564611635.jpeg)
I use a toothpick and apply a little glue to the wall edge. I'll smooth the glue with a finger if necessary.
However, a little glue may squeeze out onto the wall and corner trim. Don't panic just yet. Let the oozed glue stay put for now.
The next photo shows a little glue squeezed out where the pencil is pointing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121225182526-564621571.jpeg)
Let the glue get tacky for about 15-20 minutes. Then using a sharp #11 blade, gently remove the glue. It will be easy to remove and will bunch up on the blade.
Here is the same wall and spot where the glue was showing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121225182526-564632343.jpeg)
The corner trim is nice and tight against the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-121225182526-56464388.jpeg)
Done for tonight.
Nice looking color Tom.
Good tips on the corners and glue removal.
Thanks
Tom,
Nice tutorial there on adding the corner trim.
Since I model mostly in O scale i try to add as little bracing as possible as 90% of my building have full interiors. Then again we don't have the same humidity here as in Central Florida. I really like how you share your thought process on how much bracing you add and where to add it.
Looking forward to the next update.
Great tip (no pun intended) Tom
terry
Quote from: PRR Modeler on December 12, 2025, 07:29:32 PMNice looking color Tom.
Curt,
Thanks Butty, since you saw it this morning I think you'll agree it isn't as red as the photo shows.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on December 13, 2025, 07:10:21 AMGood tips on the corners and glue removal.
Thanks
Rick,
Than you for stopping by and posting a comment. Always happy to pass on stuff I've learned.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on December 13, 2025, 10:25:06 AMTom,
Nice tutorial there on adding the corner trim.
Since I model mostly in O scale i try to add as little bracing as possible as 90% of my building have full interiors. Then again we don't have the same humidity here as in Central Florida. I really like how you share your thought process on how much bracing you add and where to add it.
Looking forward to the next update.
Ron,
Thank you for the compliment. Modeling "O" scale is one I've never tried. I did build an "O" scale structure for a local hobby shop owner for his "O" diorama. I think it was a Chooch model.
Extra bracing here, Central Fl., is almost a must, if you want the structure to stay together.
Tom
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on December 13, 2025, 10:33:50 AMGreat tip (no pun intended) Tom
terry
Terry,
That was punny! ;D Pun intended. 8)
Tom
This afternoon I got a little done on the corner store. The instructions call for 1/16" bracing inside the lower store front doors and windows. I did that after painting them with Flowuil GN Gray Green.
The exploded diagrams show this. 1/16" is a 6X6 in HO scale. I think the 6X6 is big but it looks okay.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131225174344-564681692.jpeg)
Next was yet another test fit of the front wall into the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131225174344-56469413.jpeg)
I again test fit the canopy after the thinned paint was dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131225174344-56470786.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131225174344-56471443.jpeg)
Parts #53 are the upper and lower bay window pieces that have tabs. These tabs fit into the front wall to secure the bay window.
They were still a nice tight fit and fit into the slots without having to press them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-131225174344-564721460.jpeg)
I came upon a MAJOR issue with the build regarding the front two doors and three windows.
I'll cover that tomorrow afternoon, once I figure out how to correct a flaw in the exploded diagrams regarding the front doors and windows.
Stay tuned; however, I'm done for tonight.
I really like the color and a nice tutorial Tom.
Your build are always interesting.
Jerry
If it's a MAJOR flaw, it's got to be true!
I'm sure you can handle it though. Hey, if you can't,
and it has to do with the sizes of the door and windows,
you can always use this building for a nice garage, lol. ;D
Rich
Nice cliffhanger you've left us with. ;D
Quote from: Jerry on December 14, 2025, 12:06:01 AMI really like the color and a nice tutorial Tom.
Your build are always interesting.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you very much. I try to be as informative and descriptive as possible in my build threads.
Tom
Quote from: Pennman on December 14, 2025, 07:19:26 AMIf it's a MAJOR flaw, it's got to be true!
I'm sure you can handle it though. Hey, if you can't,
and it has to do with the sizes of the door and windows,
you can always use this building for a nice garage, lol. ;D
Rich
Rich,
Well, it was a major problem for sure. I did fix it as you'll see in the afternoon posts. No garage here, it will be done in the Doc Koontz style; however, with all my fixes.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on December 14, 2025, 08:40:05 AMNice cliffhanger you've left us with. ;D
Rick,
Sorry, but it involved a lot of fixing. I wasn't able to post the fixes yesterday.
Speaking of cliffhangers, buckle up, I'm sure the turret and two bay windows will be a real challenge.
Tom
I wish I had the opportunity to help Jeff build the pilot model or write instructions for Doc Koontz. I believe I could have helped make the kit a little less difficult.
I mentioned yesterday that I glued 1/16" (6X6s) to the inside of the two door and three window openings. Even though the exploded diagram shows this, it isn't correct, as I'll explain. Refer to the photo below.
You can see highlighted in yellow, the suggestion of the 1/16" framing for the doors.
You are viewing the rear of the front wall for the purpose of this information.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141225144628-564732011.jpeg)
If you refer to the same diagram, expanded to full length as shown below, you can see it shows the same 1/16" framing in the three window openings as well. I've marked in red pencil the three windows openings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141225144628-564741306.jpeg)
NOTE: If you do, in fact, use the 1/16" framing in the five openings, you will drastically change the look of the store front.
When adding the doors and windows, they will only fit in front or in the rear of the 1/16" framing.
If placed in the front, They will stick out from the wall and not look normal/natural. The same is true if they are placed in the rear. The rear position will put them to far back.
Now, let me confuse you further. The next drawing suggests the modeler also frame the the doors with 1/16" wood.
If the two doors and door openings are framed with 1/16" wood, the opening will be reduced by 1/8" which would leave very little room for the doors and door detail.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141225144628-56475589.jpeg)
Another way to look at the framing is to assume the framing is to be applied to the front portion of the door layer. Each door is made up of four layers.
Still, it isn't necessary for the use of double the framing.
Back in a few. Definitely need a Diet Pepsi.
This next photo shows the top door layer on the framing. This is the layer that the 1/16" wood was to be used to frame.
You can see the top layer doesn't fit with the framing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141225144629-564762223.jpeg)
Also, note the top door piece is well below the bottom of the wall section.
It dawned on me the 1/16" framing needed to be removed. They had only been in the door and window openings a little over an hour. The glue was drying but still pliable.
I used a fresh #11 blade and carefully cut the framing away from each part of the front wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141225144629-564771538.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141225144714-564782295.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141225144714-564791735.jpeg)
I used the edge of the #11 blade and removed any residual tacky glue.
Okay, time to start over on the front wall section with the door and window openings.
Below is shown the four layers of the door. For the purpose of this thread, I'll call them part 1 through 4, left to right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141225145403-56489509.jpeg)
I placed #2 on top of #1.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141225145403-564901328.jpeg)
#3 was placed on top of 1 & 2.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141225145403-56491402.jpeg)
And #4 on top of the other three.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141225145403-564921698.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141225145440-56493324.jpeg)
I got busy and forgot to take photos of another step. That step was an important one. Sorry about that but you'll be able to see what I did in a bit later.
I used HO scale 4X4s and glued them to the top edges of door layer #1. I did this with both doors and the three windows.
Floquil GN Gray Green was used on the four separate layers prior to gluing them together. The tan color is Floquil Foundation.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141225145440-564941635.jpeg)
Please refer to the above photo. You can see the 1/32" (HO scale 4X4s) glued to layer #1. They were glued on top and flush with the sides.
The other three layers fit perfectly between the 4X4s.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141225145440-56495458.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141225145440-564961608.jpeg)
The next photo shows the left door test fit into the opening. The 4X4 framing fits flush with the wall section.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141225145441-564971659.jpeg)
Fast forward and the two doors and three windows were assembled and installed/glued to the front wall.
Now it all fits properly. I'm very pleased with new look.
They all fit tightly in the wall opening and they also fit flush with the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-141225145457-564982485.jpeg)
Definitely done for today.
Very well done Tom. I would of been pulling my hair out!
Once again, I fully understand what you did to accomplish a good fit for the doors and windows, and they all look nice.
As I have said previously, I enjoy watching your builds.
I have never used any of the door panels that glue atop other sections like these you have used here.
I have seen some in kits I have purchased but rather than use any, I make my own, using stripwood.
If you have ever used the door frames that Tichy makes, I have found that they are difficult to use.
I could never get them to fit either any opening or actually fit the door meant for their frames.
Life goes on.. thanks.
Rich
Tom, it really wasn't much of a cliffhanger because I knew the outcome would be in your favor.
Great job of correcting the instructions and getting it right.
Gotta wonder over the years how many of these kits were started and never finished due to frustration...Tom, have you built other kits from this company and are they just as disorganized or is this a one off?
terry
Tom,
Nice job on the fix, they all look like they should and would never know there was a problem.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on December 14, 2025, 06:23:09 PMVery well done Tom. I would of been pulling my hair out!
Curt,
Thank you, I don't have enough hair to pull out. Patience grasshopper, patience.
Tom
Quote from: Pennman on December 15, 2025, 12:04:04 AMOnce again, I fully understand what you did to accomplish a good fit for the doors and windows, and they all look nice.
As I have said previously, I enjoy watching your builds.
I have never used any of the door panels that glue atop other sections like these you have used here.
I have seen some in kits I have purchased but rather than use any, I make my own, using stripwood.
If you have ever used the door frames that Tichy makes, I have found that they are difficult to use.
I could never get them to fit either any opening or actually fit the door meant for their frames.
Life goes on.. thanks.
Rich
Rich,
Thank you for the compliment and for following along on the build.
When I scratch build, I make my own trim as well. On this kit they were excellent laser cut parts so they were used.
Never tried the Tichy door frames.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on December 15, 2025, 07:16:22 AMTom, it really wasn't much of a cliffhanger because I knew the outcome would be in your favor.
Great job of correcting the instructions and getting it right.
Rick,
Thank you but one never knows for sure. I was pleased with the outcome on this one.
Tom
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on December 15, 2025, 08:39:46 AMGotta wonder over the years how many of these kits were started and never finished due to frustration...Tom, have you built other kits from this company and are they just as disorganized or is this a one off?
terry
Terry,
This may be one of those kits that may have never been finished.
I have built several of Jeff's, Carolina Craftsman Kits, and never had a problem. This must be one of a kind. To Jeff's credit, he did state on his website that this kit was for the experienced modeler and not for beginners.
Tom
Quote from: GaryMc on December 15, 2025, 10:05:38 AMTom,
Nice job on the fix, they all look like they should and would never know there was a problem.
Gary,
Thanks very much for the compliment. I knew going into this build there would be issues and looked at it as a challenge and accepted the challenge.
Tom
I decided to change the look of the rear on this building. I'll build open air rear stairs. I'll use the small rear sub assembly but may change it to the scribed siding as the main structure.
I cut a new rear wall. I laid the kit wall on a sheet of siding and trace the outer walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151225170253-56513853.jpeg)
The new rear wall looked good without all the slots.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151225170253-565141869.jpeg)
Fast forward and the new wall was cut and bracing added.
Old wall on right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151225170253-56515447.jpeg)
New wall fits on base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151225171509-565241439.jpeg)
I started building the two bay windows. The main parts making up the windows have angles at each end/side.
There is a very faint line where the part is to be bent. I lightly scored on the line making sure I cut enough into the line but not to cut the part off.
This lower part has to trim boards that fit on the outside.
I used pliers to hold the part and bent it at the scored line. You want to bend at the line and not the part itself.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151225170331-56518539.jpeg)
The two trim board has adhesive on the back. I removed the paper and still added a little glue to the boards.
I then glued them to the lower wall as shown in the photo below. I made sure to carefully align the scored lines to fit properly on the wall section.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151225170331-56518539.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151225170253-56516642.jpeg)
This is how they fit on the wall part.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151225170254-565171396.jpeg)
The tabs fit into the slots on part "B".
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151225170331-565191221.jpeg)
The next photo shows the lower bay window wall glued into part "B".
There are three arrows and two "X". No glue is to be applied to the "X" area as those slots share another part that fits on top of "B".
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151225170331-565201941.jpeg)
This next photo shows the top of "B". You can see there is space for the other tab.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151225170331-565211696.jpeg)
I then made a test fit for the next part that fits on top of "B" as explained in a post above.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151225170331-565221178.jpeg)
Once satisfied with the fit, I glued the part to the top of "B".
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-151225170353-565231943.jpeg)
Done for today.
Very intricate and fiddly. Well done Tom.
Topic accidentally locked, it should be unlocked now.
dave
Quote from: deemery on December 16, 2025, 08:27:24 AMTopic accidentally locked, it should be unlocked now.
dave
Dave,
Thanks very much for fixing the locked issue. Much appreciated.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on December 15, 2025, 05:43:56 PMVery intricate and fiddly. Well done Tom.
Curt,
You are absolutely correct. And, thank you.
Tom
Tom as usual your work is first class.
Really like your tutorial you can learn a lot even if your not building this kit!
Jerry
If you can fix that bump out you will be crowned King! ;D
Looks great so far!
Great work, Tom.
Rich
Quote from: Jerry on December 16, 2025, 10:25:24 AMTom as usual your work is first class.
Really like your tutorial you can learn a lot even if your not building this kit!
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you for the very kind and generous compliment on the build. This sure has been a testy little build but I'm very pleased with what it looks like at this point.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on December 16, 2025, 10:49:53 AMIf you can fix that bump out you will be crowned King! ;D
Looks great so far!
Philip,
Thank you for your kind comment. I'm working on making it look correct.
Tom
Quote from: Pennman on December 16, 2025, 10:56:45 AMGreat work, Tom.
Rich
Rich,
Thank you sir, much appreciated.
Tom
This morning I got a little more done on the bay windows.
When building the windows, all the parts fit together like a gig-saw puzzle. However, the pieces can't be laid flat and assembled.
I've studied the diagram for hours in order to make sense of how to best put them together. This is certainly no reflection on the kit manufacturer. I'm looking for a way to do it, make it look neat, with the best possible outcome and have it appear as if it just wasn't thrown together.
In studying the diagram, I've noticed some of the parts are shown out of order. I'll point them out as I go along on the build.
Also, I've come up with some suggestions on how to make this build easier when building it out of the box.
Its easy to get frustrated in this build, but be patience as it will pay off in a fine looking model.
After building the lower portion of the windows. I made a test fit on the front wall.
NOTE: The larger window frames are not glued to the lower portion.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161225175809-565251069.jpeg)
I used a metal ruler and cut out the two parts that the laser forgot to cut.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161225175809-56526485.jpeg)
The large bay windows also have an inner part that fits on the inside. These parts have the window mullions on them.
Here is a suggestion I have that will make putting it all together much easier. I mentioned earlier that most of the window parts share a common gap the slots fit into.
I found trying the piece these together almost impossible. I tested each part separately and decided what common holes were necessary and ones that were not.
I want my inner window frames a different color than the exterior window frames. Here is what I came up with to make life easier for building the kit.
The next photo shows the two inner window frames that fit inside the exterior window framing.
Notice the one of the left is folded on the score lines and the other is still flat. Note also the tabs removed from the one on the left. I realized these tabs weren't necessary to build the window. I know I'm long winded here but this is an important step in making a fine model better.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161225175809-565272406.jpeg)
I used a single edged razor blade and cut off the tabs. I didn't cut them flush as I didn't want to damage the frames.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161225175809-565281790.jpeg)
I placed the inner window frames on a metal bar that allowed me to have the frame over the edge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161225175847-56530695.jpeg)
I moved the part just off the metal piece and held it down.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161225175847-56531663.jpeg)
I then used a sanding stick, first on the rough side and then on the fine side.
The rough side removed the rest of the tab and then I sanded it flush with the fine side of the sanding stick.
This worked very well and neither part was damaged. I believe holding the frames and then using the sanding stick had the potential of creating a disaster.
All these window parts are fragile.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161225175847-56531663.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161225175847-565321800.jpeg)
The photo below shows the two inner window frames sanded smooth and flush at the top and bottom.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161225175809-56529648.jpeg)
I'll have more tomorrow. Done for today.
Tom, your experiences and work arounds will be very valuable to any else wanting to build this kit.
Tom nice techniques to get a great end result.
Quote from: Rick on December 16, 2025, 07:21:29 PMTom, your experiences and work arounds will be very valuable to any else wanting to build this kit.
Good statement Rick, and to anyone else probably working on a similar kit with bay windows.
And great informative s-b-s from you, Tom, especially showing all the fixes and expert construction principles.
Rich
You keep impressing us with your technique Tom.
Tom that is really an impressive window. Very well done.
Like Rick said it will help anyone who is building this kit.
Jerry
Nice work on those tiny mullions :o
Howdy Tom,
That is amazing work on Koontz. The windows, doors, etc look amazing.
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: Rick on December 16, 2025, 07:21:29 PMTom, your experiences and work arounds will be very valuable to any else wanting to build this kit.
Rick,
Thank you. I've never seen this kit built on either forum. Not sure how many he sold or, if any were built.
Hopefully, it searched, this may help.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on December 16, 2025, 08:20:18 PMTom nice techniques to get a great end result.
Larry,
Thank you, it has been a challenge for sure.
Tom
Quote from: Pennman on December 16, 2025, 09:38:56 PMQuote from: Rick on December 16, 2025, 07:21:29 PMTom, your experiences and work arounds will be very valuable to any else wanting to build this kit.
Good statement Rick, and to anyone else probably working on a similar kit with bay windows.
And great informative s-b-s from you, Tom, especially showing all the fixes and expert construction principles.
Rich
Rich,
Thank you for the comment and for your support.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on December 17, 2025, 06:45:49 AMYou keep impressing us with your technique Tom.
Curt,
Ah, shucks, I'm fiddling my way through it.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on December 17, 2025, 08:57:50 AMTom that is really an impressive window. Very well done.
Like Rick said it will help anyone who is building this kit.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you. I agree and the two bay windows really changes the look of the building.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on December 17, 2025, 09:19:23 AMNice work on those tiny mullions :o
Philip,
Thank you kind sir, much appreciated.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on December 17, 2025, 01:26:52 PMHowdy Tom,
That is amazing work on Koontz. The windows, doors, etc look amazing.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
My friend, I thank you of the compliment. I'm having fun on this one.
Tom
I won't install the interior window frames until I get the exterior frames painted. They will be two different colors.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161225175847-565332253.jpeg)
Prior to installing the rear framework, I pealed down a small portion of the paper covering the self adhesive.
One the painting is finished, I can peal off the rest and install the interior framing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161225175847-56534125.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-161225175907-56535846.jpeg)
I want to point out a couple of things in the build that may be a bit confusing at first glance.
Refer to the diagram below.
Parts 80 and 81 look similar except for the tabs. Part 81 fits below part 32 and 80 fits in the slots on top of part 32.
In the diagram, part 79 doesn't go on the bottom of part 53, it goes on top. So, part 53 fit between parts 74 and 79.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171225162418-56540820.jpeg)
This next photo shows I'm fixing to glue part (54)T2 on top of part 79.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171225162418-565412009.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171225162418-56542191.jpeg)
Both T2s glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171225162418-565432196.jpeg)
T is glued on top of T2 and T1 is to be glued to the top of T.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171225162418-565441544.jpeg)
Test fit again and they still fit into the slots in the front wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171225162456-565451962.jpeg)
This next photo shows one of the assembled bay windows.
The slots in the top are for the large and small corbels.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171225162456-56546356.jpeg)
The next photo shows the corbel carrier sheet. This is where it gets a bit tricksie.
This is the rear of the corbel carrier sheet. They look manageable enough. However, turn it over and you can see the laser burned them almost in half.
Large on top and small ones on bottom.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171225162456-565472404.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171225162456-5654881.jpeg)
Corbels on one bay window complete. The corbels do make a difference in the window appearance.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171225162456-565492246.jpeg)
I took me most of 90 minutes to carefully cut, hold with tweezers and glue the corbels in the slots.
I then glued part 116 in place on top of T1. It is to be centered and flush with the rear of the other parts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171225162540-565501399.jpeg)
All these little "A's". "B's". "X's" and arrows remind me of the Scrabble box when you first open it and see those tiny tiles staring up at you.
Perhaps the finished product will result in a Triple Word score. :o
T1 is wood and part 116 is thick paper. When I spread a thin layer of glue on the paper, it wanted to curl on the corners. I used clamps to hold the corners in place until the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171225162540-565511478.jpeg)
Here is how it should look once glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-171225171109-565521040.jpeg)
This afternoon I started assembly of the turret. I thought the bay windows were a challenge until I started the turret.
I'll start that post tomorrow. I'm done for today.
Quote from: BandOGuy on December 17, 2025, 05:13:14 PMAll these little "A's". "B's". "X's" and arrows remind me of the Scrabble box when you first open it and see those tiny tiles staring up at you.
Perhaps the finished product will result in a Triple Word score. :o
Chip,
Good to see you. Hope all is well on your end.
Yes, it does. I'm thinking more in the line of Double the Triple Word Score on this one.
Tom
Did you paint the corbels on the carrier sheet before you cut them out? And did you paint the edges before or after you glued them into position? The assembly looks really good.
dave
Yipes Tom!!!! That is a lot of parts for those bay windows. :o You did a fantastic job building those.
Truly superb modeling Tom. The window look outstanding.
One word "Outstanding"!
Jerry
Didn't realize it was double trouble deuce...fine job Tom!
Philip
Tom,
Just looking at all of those corbels on the sheet, reminds me why I steer away from
most kits. I get overwhelmed looking at all of the parts of kits. But most are
needed. You have done an excellent job with yours, nice.
Rich
Quote from: deemery on December 17, 2025, 07:27:03 PMDid you paint the corbels on the carrier sheet before you cut them out? And did you paint the edges before or after you glued them into position? The assembly looks really good.
dave
Dave,
Nothing has been painted at this point in the build. I didn't paint the corbels in the carrier sheet. They were to small and when cut out of the sheet the paint would have to be touched up anyway. More on this later in the build.
Thank you also for the compliment.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on December 17, 2025, 09:16:22 PMYipes Tom!!!! That is a lot of parts for those bay windows. :o You did a fantastic job building those.
Ron,
Yes, each window has 34 parts. I counted them. Thank you for the kind compliment.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on December 18, 2025, 07:32:28 AMTruly superb modeling Tom. The window look outstanding.
Butty Curt,
Thank you my friend for the thumbs up on the build.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on December 18, 2025, 03:39:45 PMOne word "Outstanding"!
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you, very much appreciate the support.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on December 18, 2025, 05:15:32 PMDidn't realize it was double trouble deuce...fine job Tom!
Philip
Philip,
Thank you kind sir. Yes, double the challenge and double the fun in the challenge.
Tom
Quote from: Pennman on December 18, 2025, 10:06:31 PMTom,
Just looking at all of those corbels on the sheet, reminds me why I steer away from
most kits. I get overwhelmed looking at all of the parts of kits. But most are
needed. You have done an excellent job with yours, nice.
Rich
Rich,
Thank you for the kind and very generous compliment on the build.
The corbels in this kit are the smallest I've ever work with. However, they look good on the model.
As I mentioned, each bay window has 34 parts.
Tom
Time to start the turret build. The photo below shows the parts that connect the main parts of the turret.
The one marked "B" is the bottom part. The two on the bottom are the ones that fit above and below the main windows.
The exploded view of the turret shows that there are four of the the open parts, not just the two shown. However, you will only need two. I think the other two were inserted in the diagram in error.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-191225165055-565731651.jpeg)
To avoid glue in the slots, I placed a little glue in between the slots as shown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-191225154412-56556756.jpeg)
I then added this part and made sure the tabs were all on the inside of the slots.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-191225154412-56557166.jpeg)
I then glued the bottom part in place as shown. By not putting glue in the slots the tabs on this bottom piece fit snugly in place. I then spot glued both parts to the solid wood piece.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-191225154412-565582318.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-191225154412-565591216.jpeg)
Referring to the diagram above, note part #84 is to be glued to the inside of part#66. I guess this is for support of part #66, otherwise it makes no sense. And, the is no part #84 in the kit.
I glued part #17 to the bottom on the assembly and this was strength enough.
I next glued one of the middle rings to the top of the bottom assembly shown above.
Again, I avoided adding glue to the slots but, added the glue between them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-191225154500-565621814.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-191225154500-56563517.jpeg)
I set this to the side and let dry. I moved back to work on the two bay windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-191225154500-56564373.jpeg)
I sprayed the bay window assembly with Tamiya Wooden Deck Tan.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-191225154541-565662199.jpeg)
When dry, I added parts #60,61 and 62 to the bay window exterior frames.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-191225154541-565651718.jpeg)
Although these parts are peal and stick, I still added a little glue tot he rear to make sure the panels stayed put.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-191225154541-56567850.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-191225154541-565682217.jpeg)
I then resprayed the windows.
I then painted the area below the window with full strength Floquil GN Gray Green. When dry, the trim was added.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-191225154541-5656989.jpeg)
Using a double 0 brush, I carefully painted the corbels.
The interior window frames were spray painted with Famiya Insignia White.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-191225154612-565701273.jpeg)
The white interior frames were glued in place behind the exterior frames.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-191225154612-56571330.jpeg)
Both bay windows are now complete.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-191225154612-565722185.jpeg)
Done for today.
Tom, this answers my "how did you paint the corbels?" question from a couple days ago. I like the color scheme, looks good for the 1920s/1930s. Probably not enough colors for 1890s-1910s.
dave
Tom,
Always liked the look of this kit but figured it was a bear to construct. You are doing a bang up job.
Travis
Coming along nicely Tom. From the looks of it, this kit is the challenge I expected it to be. Looking forward to the completed model. Mark
You got it whipped! 8)
Unpainted Lady Dave. lol
Bay windows look very nice with their paint.
Great job on the bay windows; looks like a rather fiddly job.
Howdy Tom, Nice work on the bump-outs. ~mike
Tom,
I like the color of the bay windows too; they complement the whole building. Very nice work.
Rich
Tom,
The painted bay windows look fantastic.
Tom outstanding modeling. That looks terrific.
Great job on those bay windows Tom.
As usual it looks to be perfect.
Jerry
Quote from: deemery on December 19, 2025, 05:30:33 PMTom, this answers my "how did you paint the corbels?" question from a couple days ago. I like the color scheme, looks good for the 1920s/1930s. Probably not enough colors for 1890s-1910s.
dave
Dave,
At the time of your question, I wasn't sure what color I wanted for the windows. I think the color scheme compliments the wall color. I agree, not enough colors for late 1800's but will work for late 40's early 50's.
Tom
Quote from: TravisSumm on December 19, 2025, 08:29:13 PMTom,
Always liked the look of this kit but figured it was a bear to construct. You are doing a bang up job.
Travis
Travis,
I've been wanting to build this one for many years. Every time I went to my kit stash, it was calling, "Build me, Build me!"
So, here we are. And, thank you for the support and comment.
Tom
Quote from: craftsmankits on December 19, 2025, 09:12:28 PMComing along nicely Tom. From the looks of it, this kit is the challenge I expected it to be. Looking forward to the completed model. Mark
Mark,
Thank you, much appreciated. It is the challenge I figured as well. It will be a nice looking structure when finished.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on December 19, 2025, 09:42:48 PMYou got it whipped! 8)
Unpainted Lady Dave. lol
Philip,
Yes, and it has be partially whipped also. ;D
Tom
Quote from: Rick on December 20, 2025, 06:49:23 AMBay windows look very nice with their paint.
Rick,
Thank you sir, appreciate the compliment.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on December 20, 2025, 11:19:00 AMGreat job on the bay windows; looks like a rather fiddly job.
Larry,
Thank you and yes, parts of it are very fiddly.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on December 20, 2025, 12:42:34 PMHowdy Tom, Nice work on the bump-outs. ~mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thanks very much.
Tom
Quote from: Pennman on December 21, 2025, 06:59:41 AMTom,
I like the color of the bay windows too; they complement the whole building. Very nice work.
Rich
Rich,
Thank you for the kind compliment on the build.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on December 21, 2025, 08:26:40 AMTom,
The painted bay windows look fantastic.
Ron,
Thank you as well. I'm very pleased with the look up to this point.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on December 21, 2025, 10:51:49 AMTom outstanding modeling. That looks terrific.
Curt,
Thanks Butty, Although I'm enjoying the build, I'm looking forward to the next project.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on December 21, 2025, 02:35:37 PMGreat job on those bay windows Tom.
As usual it looks to be perfect.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you, it took some time and patience to get them to look correct/perfect as you said.
Tom
I'll continue with the build of the lower part of the turret window.
There are five long windows and two corner panels that are all in one.
In order to get a consistent bend between the window frames, I used a new #11 blade and lightly traced the laser lines on the front of the windows. I showed this on other parts early in the build.
I laid the window section face down. I then placed a metal ruler on top of the back between the window frames. I used a #17 blade and carefully and patiently lifted each section of the window. This gave me a consistent bend for the entire window frame assembly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-191225154459-56561662.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-191225154459-565601631.jpeg)
I added spot glue to the underside of the open ring and attached the long windows to the part.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221225154953-565801232.jpeg)
I also added the top part to the open ring as shown above.
Back in a few, Diet Pepsi time.
Referring tot he diagram below, it shows part 84 fitting inside part 66.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-191225154412-565591216.jpeg)
The next photo shows part 84 in front of the windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221225154953-56581531.jpeg)
As you can clearly see, part 84 won't fit inside part 66.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221225154953-565821968.jpeg)
However, it is a perfect fit on the outside of part 84.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221225154953-565831790.jpeg)
I glued part 84 to the outside of part 66.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221225154953-565831790.jpeg)
These next three pieces fit on top of the long windows. The center part is to be glued between the two parts marked with a "T".
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221225155040-565842083.jpeg)
I suggest you glue on one "T", add the middle piece and then glue on the other "T" piece. These three pieces fit in the tabs on the upper part of the long window frames.
I followed the same procedure for the turret windows as I did with the two bay ones.
Fast forward and the two turret sections are complete and painted. I also added the corbels.
You can see the three parts mentioned above on top of the turret.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221225155113-565902288.jpeg)
These two parts aren't glued together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221225155113-56591232.jpeg)
Due to the way the long windows are constructed, I had to go ahead and glue the interior frames to the exterior frames. You can see in the photos above, the interior frames are not painted white.
I'll use the 00 brush and hand paint the frames at a later time in the build.
I next turned my attention to the witch hat that fits on the top of the turret. I anticipated a problem with the thick layered paper.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221225155040-56585666.jpeg)
Looking at the photo above, I laid it out and traced it on a the piece of thin cardboard.
The cardboard is about 65% thinner than the white piece.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221225155040-565862158.jpeg)
I anticipated the thick white cardboard would pull apart once pulled into shape.
I was correct! When I pulled it together and added glue, the paper separated as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221225155040-565862158.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221225155040-565871761.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221225155041-565881419.jpeg)
A note on the diagram suggest adding paper to the hat to cover this separation.
I cut out my pattern and added a base for stability.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221225155113-565892376.jpeg)
New hat fits much better on the turret.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-221225155114-565921223.jpeg)
Notice also a very slight curve at the bottom edges of the witch hat. I used my finger to press the edges down for the effect. Just something different. The white would have been to thick.
Done for today. I'm not sure I'll get back to the build until after "The Claus" visits here.
Tom,
With all of the kit's parts for the turret, it will be very structurally sound.
Another way to get rid of the separations would be to use some Tamiya putty on those gaps
between the triangle panels, but that would be so time consuming. I think your fix was
perfect. Nice work.
Rich
You did a great job on the turrent Tom and very innovative.
Tom, Great solution to the witch hat issue. I wouldn't have been happy with the original witch hat either.
Tom, more great work deciphering and correcting the instructions.
Also, a nice fix for the witch hat.
I like the curved bottom you added.
Looks like victory to me! ;D
Great job!
Patience seems to fit this build!!
Great work Tom.
Jerry
I saw this build, in person, over the weekend. It would scare me off for sure! :o ;D
Quote from: Pennman on December 22, 2025, 06:17:33 PMTom,
With all of the kit's parts for the turret, it will be very structurally sound.
Another way to get rid of the separations would be to use some Tamiya putty on those gaps
between the triangle panels, but that would be so time consuming. I think your fix was
perfect. Nice work.
Rich
Rich,
Yes, there are many parts and when glued together, they are very sound. I though about the putty and figured that has to be a better way.
Thank you for the compliment.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on December 22, 2025, 07:06:04 PMYou did a great job on the turrent Tom and very innovative.
Butty Curt,
Thanks very much my friend.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on December 22, 2025, 09:13:38 PMTom, Great solution to the witch hat issue. I wouldn't have been happy with the original witch hat either.
Ron,
Thank you, yea, the thick hat needed to go.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on December 23, 2025, 07:12:29 AMTom, more great work deciphering and correcting the instructions.
Also, a nice fix for the witch hat.
I like the curved bottom you added.
Rick,
Thank you for the comment, much appreciated.
I think the curve at the bottom will really show when painted.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on December 23, 2025, 09:48:41 AMLooks like victory to me! ;D
Great job!
Philip,
Thank you very much for the comment and following along.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on December 23, 2025, 10:18:01 AMPatience seems to fit this build!!
Great work Tom.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you also for the comment and compliment. Patience is a requirement for this build.
Tom
Quote from: ReadingBob on December 23, 2025, 10:35:19 AMI saw this build, in person, over the weekend. It would scare me off for sure! :o ;D
Bob,
Thanks for stopping by on the thread and the visit last Saturday. I believe you would do a masterful job on this build.
Tom
I've been very busy on the build of Doc Koontz' Corner Store.
I made one final test fit of the bay windows prior to gluing them in place. I noticed the wall color inside the windows. I marked the area and then painted over the wall color with Tamiya Black.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261225143820-565962019.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261225143820-565991142.jpeg)
I then glued the front windows in place and used weights to hold them flat while the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261225143820-56600658.jpeg)
While that assembly was drying, I turned my attention to the construction of the canopy.
Here is the diagram showing all the parts and assembly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261225143904-566031287.jpeg)
I built the canopy per the diagram and had no issues.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261225143904-56604539.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261225143904-5660585.jpeg)
I fit the canopy into the openings on the front wall and made a test run for the canopy roof.
The canopy roof is made from the same thick paper as the turret top.
You can see in the next photo the canopy roof doesn't fit under the bay windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261225143820-566011852.jpeg)
If I pressed the canopy roof under the windows, it caused the canopy to angle down which of course was unacceptable.
My choice here was to make a new canopy roof using a much thinner cardboard.
The next photo shows the original white paper cardboard and my thinner one ply cardboard.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261225143820-566022172.jpeg)
Back in a few, Diet Pepsi time.
Prior to making a new roof panel, I wanted to make sure my cardboard was square.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261225143904-56606942.jpeg)
I then place the white roof panel on the cardboard and noticed a slight angle on the end of the kit roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261225143904-566071649.jpeg)
Assuming the laser cut roof panel was in error, I checked the other end and found it was cut at the same angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261225143946-56608964.jpeg)
I then dawned on me the this angle was no mistake or error but was necessary to fit the canopy when the ends were folded down.
Due to my cardboard roof panel is less that half the thickness of the original, I added supports to the top of the canopy. I did this to support the thin new roof panel.
It also gave me more gluing surface to glue to the front wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261225143946-56609989.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261225143947-56610243.jpeg)
Really good problem solving Tom. I'm sure it looks better than the original one.
I made a test fit on the new canopy roof and it fit perfectly with the thinner cardboard. I marked on the roof the location of the windows.
The new roof was removed and glued to the top of the canopy frames.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261225151535-566141940.jpeg)
I painted the edges with Floquil Old Silver.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261225151535-56615238.jpeg)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on December 26, 2025, 03:20:03 PMReally good problem solving Tom. I'm sure it looks better than the original one.
Curt,
Thanks Butty for the kind and generous comment.
Tom
Now the canopy roof is level and the panel fits tight under the windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261225143947-566111387.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261225144009-566131392.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261225152823-566161826.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261225144009-566121560.jpeg)
Tom,
As with all construction, problem solving is definitely a must. That canopy
will be thicker and sturdier now. Good work.
Rich
Tom...all in all this seems like a "well" engineered kit. Perhaps if someone like yourself had built this prior to release to the general modeling crowd, many of the problems/issues could have been resolved prior to release.
Well done...what I'm taking away from your modeling technique is that you think thru a step before "jump in with both feet"
terry
Outstanding.
Howdy Tom,
The bay windows and canopy are top-notch. I love it when folks show how they overcame problems with a build. I appreciate the time you took to document the process.
Thanks,
mike
Your build is coming on very well, Tom.
I have been away on a pre Christmas holiday to the deeps of the south of South Westland - the home of my Shadowlands and Tellynott RR, and have been watching your progress, but not commenting. Your systematic approach is paying dividends. Perhaps you will be asked to build an upcoming pilot model. I'm sure we would all benefit if you did.
Cheers, Mark.
I would have been surprised if there wasn't an issue with the next step you're on.
And as usual, you were able to create a remedy.
The front of the building looks great with the windows and canopy in place.
Tom just a good thing you're good at problem solving on this one. Coming along nicely.
It's definitely a Best Practice for a kitmaker to send a kit to a 3rd party for a test build. The next best thing is to have a 3rd party build the kit and write the instructions at the same time. (I've done that for a couple of manufacturers.)
dave
Tom great way you fix things. You seem sove these problems very easily.
And will make it easy for anyone who wants to build one.
Jerry
Tom,
Another great solution to a problem.
I hate to say this, but I can't wait to see what the next problem challenge will be and the solution to that challenge. This has been a great build.
What a challenge !!! You make a very good job with this «Problematic » kit...
Eric Quebec.
Quote from: Pennman on December 26, 2025, 04:00:05 PMTom,
As with all construction, problem solving is definitely a must. That canopy
will be thicker and sturdier now. Good work.
Rich
Rich,
I agree, solving a few issues was a must. The canopy is very sturdy and will work well.
Tom
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on December 26, 2025, 04:31:20 PMTom...all in all this seems like a "well" engineered kit. Perhaps if someone like yourself had built this prior to release to the general modeling crowd, many of the problems/issues could have been resolved prior to release.
Well done...what I'm taking away from your modeling technique is that you think thru a step before "jump in with both feet"
terry
Terry,
This is a great little kit and I'm happy I made the decision to get one from CCK. I would have been happy to do a pilot on this one. However, it would have taken several months for the build and to write instructions. Jeff did most of his own builds and photos of the pilot models.
I try to be one or two steps ahead of my builds.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on December 26, 2025, 05:11:49 PMHowdy Tom,
The bay windows and canopy are top-notch. I love it when folks show how they overcame problems with a build. I appreciate the time you took to document the process.
Thanks,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thanks you, I'm very pleased with how it has turned out to this point. It does take time to photo the steps, load them, crop them and get them posted in the narrative. I enjoy sharing the builds.
Tom
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on December 26, 2025, 06:52:07 PMYour build is coming on very well, Tom.
I have been away on a pre Christmas holiday to the deeps of the south of South Westland - the home of my Shadowlands and Tellynott RR, and have been watching your progress, but not commenting. Your systematic approach is paying dividends. Perhaps you will be asked to build an upcoming pilot model. I'm sure we would all benefit if you did.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
Thank you my friend. I hope you had a great holiday to the deeps of South Westland. It is always good to get more info on the area you are modeling.
I have done a few pilot models or first builds after the pilot model and it takes time. It is one reason I'm so impressed with those manufacturers who seem to crank out models.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on December 26, 2025, 06:53:13 PMI would have been surprised if there wasn't an issue with the next step you're on.
And as usual, you were able to create a remedy.
The front of the building looks great with the windows and canopy in place.
Dave,
I appreciate you stopping by and posting a comment. This will be a great addition to the area it will occupy.
I have run into a few issues with the turret and how it fits on the structure but that will be addressed as I get to that part of the build thread.
Thank you also for the kind compliment.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on December 27, 2025, 09:59:50 AMTom great way you fix things. You seem sove these problems very easily.
And will make it easy for anyone who wants to build one.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you also for the kind compliment. They may seem easily solved but I lay in bed working them out in my mind.
I do hope this helps another who wishes to take on this kit.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on December 27, 2025, 12:12:59 PMTom,
Another great solution to a problem.
I hate to say this, but I can't wait to see what the next problem challenge will be and the solution to that challenge. This has been a great build.
Ron,
Thank you, much appreciate the comment. I agree, and, there is a next problem being worked out. More on that as I get to that in the thread.
Tom
Quote from: EricQuebec on December 28, 2025, 12:53:00 PMWhat a challenge !!! You make a very good job with this «Problematic » kit...
Eric Quebec.
Eric,
Yes, it is and thanks for stopping by. I guess working out problems is part of building a difficult kit.
Tom
I started to assemble the windows. The next photo shows the six round top windows. The two on top of complete as far as the interior frames. The ones on the bottom need to be glued together to look like the top two.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281225153651-566201882.jpeg)
I thought there was a sheet of laser cut acetate windows but I haven't seen it. I looked all over but I guess I was just imagining that.
So, I peeled the paper off the back of the windows and stuck them to some spare acetate.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281225153651-56621770.jpeg)
I then used a fresh #11 blade and cut the acetate away from the edges of the four windows.
I turned the end wall over and pressed the four windows into the openings. I made them flush with the exterior wall as seen in the photos below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281225153651-566221640.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281225153651-566231137.jpeg)
I then added the exterior window frames. These were peel and stick. I removed the paper and still added a little glue to the underside and pressed them against the exterior wall around the windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281225153727-566251263.jpeg)
I did the same with the two doors and windows on the rear wall. The wall in the photo below represents the best view of the actual wall color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281225153727-566261992.jpeg)
Well, it turns out my imagination wasn't off after all. I found the sheet of laser cut windows from the kit under the work bench. You can see I've kicked it a few times.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281225153727-566271048.jpeg)
Diet Pepsi time, back in a few.
I made a test fit of the turret to the front and rear walls. Yes, there is a problem with how it fits. I'll get into that tomorrow or the next day. For now, it is a test fit and not glued.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281225153727-56628410.jpeg)
It looks like a good fit but, all is not well in the kingdom.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281225153728-566292198.jpeg)
At least the turret in the test fit is level. 8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-281225153745-566302298.jpeg)
Done for today.
Great job so far Tom.
Tom, nice job on the windows and I know you'll get that turret to be just right.
Tom great job of those windows.
Jerry
Quote from: Rick on December 29, 2025, 08:41:39 AMTom, nice job on the windows and I know you'll get that turret to be just right.
Rick,
Thank you, much appreciated. More on the turret in a few.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on December 29, 2025, 09:50:53 AMTom great job of those windows.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you also. I'm happy to be past that part of the build.
Tom
I got a lot of work done on the model today but not much to show. I'll have more tomorrow in the way of photos and what got done.
The next photo shows how the turret fits, or rather how it doesn't fit on the front wall. Two of the three notches in the front wall don't align with the turret.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-291225152529-566311996.jpeg)
The next photo shows how it looks with the rear wall. The top notch doesn't align correctly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-291225152530-56632533.jpeg)
In order to get the turret to fit correctly, I realized I needed to glue the walls together. Gluing the walls together will give me a much more complete look at how the turret can be fitted to both walls.
Trying to get it to fit on one wall at a time isn't the best solution.
I started by gluing the wider end wall to the base. I noticed the base was slightly warped with a hump in the middle. I glued the end wall to the base, made sure it was perpendicular to the base and secured with with heavy weights to make sure it glued flat.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-291225152530-566341602.jpeg)
Success!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-291225152530-56633631.jpeg)
I then glued the rear wall section in place. As you can see in the following photos, I made sure the walls were perpendicular and flat on the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-291225152530-56635738.jpeg)
The narrow end wall section was glued in place as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-291225152642-566362052.jpeg)
I will leave this as is until tomorrow afternoon to ensure the glued is dry and cured. It is critical that the walls be level to each other and flat on the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-291225152642-566371916.jpeg)
I did install some interior shots of stores in the lower level. I added some LEDs and wired them in series. More on this tomorrow.
Done for today.
I think this is the first time I see your Pepsi in one of the pictures. ;D
It's always interesting to watch you work through the challenges of a kit (or a scratchbuilt). I'm looking forward to see how the tower comes together.
dave
What Dave said. Your imagineering skills are top notch; that kit would have given me nuts.
Tom,
At least the windows were put together without any issues. ;D
The tower installation should be an interesting fix as it looks like someone did little nibbling at the top of the wall.
Quote from: Rick on December 29, 2025, 06:55:05 PMI think this is the first time I see your Pepsi in one of the pictures. ;D
Rick,
I usually have the Diet Pepsi at the desk when adding to the thread. However, I do have one while working on a model as well.
I try to limit my sodas to one in the morning and one in the afternoon.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on December 29, 2025, 07:09:03 PMIt's always interesting to watch you work through the challenges of a kit (or a scratchbuilt). I'm looking forward to see how the tower comes together.
dave
Dave,
I enjoy the challenges on some kit builds. The tower will be interesting for sure. Thanks for the comment.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on December 30, 2025, 07:54:37 AMWhat Dave said. Your imagineering skills are top notch; that kit would have given me nuts.
Larry,
Thank you for the generous compliment on the build. This one isn't driving me nuts as I'm already nuts, possibly from taking on the build.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on December 30, 2025, 09:30:28 AMTom,
At least the windows were put together without any issues. ;D
The tower installation should be an interesting fix as it looks like someone did little nibbling at the top of the wall.
Ron,
The windows came out fine, no issues there. I think the little woodchuck was me. I tried to get it to fit prior to having the walls glued in place.
Tom
I installed LEDs in the ceiling for the lower floor lights. I glued some backdrop photos to the rear wall as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311225144624-566381922.jpeg)
I painted black around the inside of the windows to prevent light leaks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311225144700-566391935.jpeg)
When dry, I installed the window acetate.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311225144700-566402006.jpeg)
The next photo shows all the parts that make up the roof panels.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311225144740-566441256.jpeg)
I glued the front wall to the rest of the structure and used clamps to hold it together while the glue dried.
The bottom roof panel, part 25 in the diagram, was placed on the roof to help hold the walls as the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311225144701-566411352.jpeg)
The top of the LEDs shine into the second story bay windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311225144741-566461687.jpeg)
In the next photo you can see the red wire in the left bay window.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311225144740-566452267.jpeg)
I cut two pieces of black paper to fit and be glued to the back of the bay windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311225144741-566471336.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311225144821-566481918.jpeg)
Prior to adding the black paper to the windows, I painted a 3X5 card with Tamiya Sky Blue and Sea Green. I cut strips and glued them to the rear of the window.
One could argue that the two bay windows are in one room. Since there are two rear doors on the second floor, I decided these were two separate rooms.
Anyway, now the LED can't be seen through the second floor windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311225144821-56649148.jpeg)
Back in a few, Diet Pepsi time.
The bottom roof panel is a very thin wood product and doesn't lay flat.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311225144701-566421227.jpeg)
There are other roof panels that will be glued to the bottom panel. I wanted this one sturdy and flat when the other panels. So, I added some 10X10 bracing to the underside.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311225144740-566432378.jpeg)
I added glue to the bottom panel making sure no glue got into the openings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311225154909-566551400.jpeg)
The middle section was place on top and the two roof panels were placed upside down on the work bench. I added weights evenly around the side to ensure the panel remained flat as the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311225154909-56656425.jpeg)
While the two roof panels were drying, I made a final test fit of the tower to the two walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311225144821-56651758.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311225144908-566522171.jpeg)
Now, for the big event of adding the tower to the building. I worked with it for about 30 minutes and tried to get it in place without chopping anymore of the side wall.
I finally made a slight adjustment of the tower on the two walls and was able to wedge it in so it fit as good as it was going to. I removed it and put it back into the same place. It worked so I removed it added some glue where it doesn't show and reattached the tower.
I'm happy with how it looks and fits. I'll need to add a little strip wood to cover the small gaps in the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311225144908-566531054.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311225144908-566541634.jpeg)
More importantly is that I got it to fit and be level! ;D ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311225144821-56650448.jpeg)
Done for today.
Could you talk a bit about the adjustments to the tower to get it to fit?
dave
Howdy Tom,
Nice finesse of the tower to the structure. The paint colors set this building off well. The bay windows look amazing.
I don't have anything constructive to add, just a thank you for posting the thread and sharing your work.
Have fun,
mike
Tom,
another huge save, looking at previous photos you came up with the perfect solution.
You can't tell it's not perfect Tom. I would expect nothing less from your modeling. Have a Happy New Year to you and Pam.
Great job all around! Probably better than the manufacturer anticipated; should be a nice addition to your Empire.
Tom, lights look great.
And good job getting the tower to fit properly.
My rendition would be a pile of lumber!
Nice work!
Looks really nice Tom, great job and thanks for detail on issue and instruction how you made it work.
Jim
Looking great Tom..... 8)
Quote from: deemery on December 31, 2025, 05:06:02 PMCould you talk a bit about the adjustments to the tower to get it to fit?
dave
Dave,
Yes, I'll be happy to. After building the tower sub assembly, I started to test fit it to the walls. I realized I should have waited and made the test fit after the walls were all assembled. I was making the test fit on each wall separately prior to assembly.
There are three small slots on the tower end of each wall. Please refer to the next two photos. One is the front and the second is the rear view of the tower end.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-291225152529-566311996.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-291225152530-56632533.jpeg)
In both photos you can see where I made the small slots/notches wider to get the tower to fit. The flat side of the tower rings fit into these notches.
If I had waited until the four walls were together, I may not have had this problem. I say may due to the fact that I cut a new rear wall section, so my notches may have been slightly off.
I didn't mention or show this step but, I used an Emory board and lightly sanded the rear of the top ring on the tower to lesson the thickness. This did help a little to get it to fit into the top notch. Still, it was necessary for me to gently press down on the tower to ease it into the top notch.
After this final test fit, I added glue and again pressed the tower in place.
Once the tower was in place, I gently moved it back and forth until I was satisfied that the sides gave me the best coverage on each wall and both sides of the tower. When viewing the tower from the sides, the small openings around the notches aren't that noticeable. Refer to the next two photos.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010126142357-566611153.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010126142357-5666373.jpeg)
So, this was how I solved the problem of the tower fitting properly to the end of the building.
Quote from: friscomike on December 31, 2025, 05:25:42 PMHowdy Tom,
Nice finesse of the tower to the structure. The paint colors set this building off well. The bay windows look amazing.
I don't have anything constructive to add, just a thank you for posting the thread and sharing your work.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thank you sir, I'm very pleased with how this is turning out. I also like the colors and they seem to fit the structure.
You are very welcome, I think a difficult build should include photos to go along with the narrative.
I'm up to 237 photo at this point.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on December 31, 2025, 05:43:50 PMTom,
another huge save, looking at previous photos you came up with the perfect solution.
Ron,
Thank you very much, I appreciate the support and comment.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on December 31, 2025, 06:11:55 PMYou can't tell it's not perfect Tom. I would expect nothing less from your modeling. Have a Happy New Year to you and Pam.
Butty Curt,
Thank you kind sir. I hope you and your family had a quiet and peaceful New Year Eves as well.
Now, let me get my head back down to normal size.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on January 01, 2026, 07:20:33 AMGreat job all around! Probably better than the manufacturer anticipated; should be a nice addition to your Empire.
Larry,
Thank you, much appreciate the compliment.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on January 01, 2026, 09:02:35 AMTom, lights look great.
And good job getting the tower to fit properly.
Rick,
Thank you also my friend.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on January 01, 2026, 10:00:26 AMMy rendition would be a pile of lumber!
Nice work!
Philip,
Well, it was a possibility for sure. I managed to figured it all out.
Tom
Quote from: Jim Donovan on January 01, 2026, 11:04:09 AMLooks really nice Tom, great job and thanks for detail on issue and instruction how you made it work.
Jim
Jim,
I appreciate you stopping by and posting a comment, thank you.
Tom
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 01, 2026, 11:28:43 AMLooking great Tom..... 8)
Butty Greg,
Thanks Gregory, I appreciate you looking in the build.
Tom
Tom, thanks Very Much for the description of how you fit the tower. The final fit looks really good, and some trim will make any gaps disappear.
dave
Quote from: deemery on January 01, 2026, 02:52:50 PMTom, thanks Very Much for the description of how you fit the tower. The final fit looks really good, and some trim will make any gaps disappear.
dave
Dave,
You are very welcome. Actually, it was a great question and a part I should have covered in the narrative.
Tom
After gluing the bottom and middle roof panels together, I made a test fit of the top panel with the other two in place on the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010126162059-566642014.jpeg)
You can see it is warped also. It is thin like the bottom panel.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010126162059-566651909.jpeg)
I glued the top to the other two panels and placed weights on them until dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010126162059-566662390.jpeg)
I spray painted the side on the three panels with Tamiya paint in the same color as the trim and windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010126162059-566671048.jpeg)
The roof was removed, glue added and then replaced and held on the roof with weights until dry. I'll remove the weights tomorrow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010126162100-566681594.jpeg)
Done for today.
That's a strong building.
Nice fix!! I could almost park a car on top of that building and it would hold.
Tom,
Will the upstairs rooms be apartments? When can I move in?
This is a prominent structure. Looking good!
Rich
Tom,
Your structure builds always amaze me. The SBS's are great. I always learn something by looking at the pictures. I need to stop in more often too.
Great looking building.
Bernd
Tom,
The building is starting to look impressive, a signature building for sure. Also as Curt stated, it's a strong building with all the weight it's supporting.
That;s an impressive building and a outstandinng job building it. Great tutorial Tom.
Jerry
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 01, 2026, 06:09:26 PMThat's a strong building.
Butty Curt,
Yepper, built to last.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on January 02, 2026, 07:13:25 AMNice fix!! I could almost park a car on top of that building and it would hold.
Larry,
Yes, almost but for sure an HO scale car. ;D
Tom
Quote from: Pennman on January 02, 2026, 07:41:26 AMTom,
Will the upstairs rooms be apartments? When can I move in?
This is a prominent structure. Looking good!
Rich
Rich,
Yes, and I'm assuming they are for the two store owners on the lower level. However, if they fail to pay my rent, you are next in line. Thank you for the kind words of support.
Tom
Quote from: Bernd on January 02, 2026, 10:39:44 AMTom,
Your structure builds always amaze me. The SBS's are great. I always learn something by looking at the pictures. I need to stop in more often too.
Great looking building.
Bernd
Bernd,
I'm happy to share what info I have in building structures. Its always good to know one can get something out of a build.
Stop by anytime and thank you for the very generous compliment.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on January 02, 2026, 11:04:37 AMTom,
The building is starting to look impressive, a signature building for sure. Also as Curt stated, it's a strong building with all the weight it's supporting.
Ron,
Thank you for the comment and taking the time to stop by for a look see. I think with the vertical interior supports and second floor glued in place makes it very sturdy.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on January 02, 2026, 11:09:31 AMThat;s an impressive building and a outstandinng job building it. Great tutorial Tom.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you my friend for the very kind and generous compliment on the build. It has been a fun challenge.
Tom
I glued the three roof supports in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020126151732-56669447.jpeg)
I then glued the next piece in place and yep, held it down with weights.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020126151732-566702327.jpeg)
I noticed the tower top won't fit now on the tower. The roof extension is to long.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020126151732-566712500.jpeg)
I sanded under the extension to get it to fit so the top looked like normal.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020126151732-566721184.jpeg)
I then made a test fit of the last roof section to be added. It also was to long on the end.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020126151732-566731069.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020126151810-56674152.jpeg)
It was sanded as well so it fit snug against the tower top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020126151810-566752401.jpeg)
Back in a few, time for a cold Diet Pepsi
The next photo shows the pieces that are to be placed at an angle on side of the roof.
I believe that since I needed to make a new tower top, I'll need to make all new angle pieces as well. Based on the thickness of these parts, I'm confident I won't get a tight fit. 8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020126151837-56681490.jpeg)
To be fair, I took the piece shown below and one that fits above the bay window and tried to make a test fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020126151810-56676773.jpeg)
You can see they don't fit properly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020126151810-566771218.jpeg)
I'm just not confident these will look right if I use the thick cardboard sections. In order for me to get a tight corner fit, I'll need to sand the top and sides at an angle. Just not worth the time.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020126151811-56678102.jpeg)
One issue I had trying to make a test fit is that the top roof part and the tower top kept sliding out of position.
I made the decision to glue the tower top and roof top section in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020126151837-566791069.jpeg)
I did use more weights to hold i9t down until the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020126151837-566801188.jpeg)
Done for today.
With all the adjustments you've had to make to this kit it would have been almost easier to scratch build the thing. It would be interesting to know a) how many other kits look like crap when finished and b) how many ended up in the trash. You're a brave man Gungadin!!
Well, those roof parts should be relatively easy to build through a combination of measurements (top, bottom, length). I'd do this in heavy paper first, to get the sizes correct, and then cut from cardstock. So a PITA, but a typical PITA for a complex structure... Having that solid subroof (including the sanding to get it to fit along the Witch's Hat tower roof) should make the overall construction of the roof easier than it would have been to do totally from scratch.
dave
Good luck Tom, but I know you'll get it done, and done well.
Howdy Tom,
Good luck with the top. With the skills you used with the turret and bay windows, the roof shouldn't be too hard.
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: Larry C on January 02, 2026, 04:47:46 PMWith all the adjustments you've had to make to this kit it would have been almost easier to scratch build the thing. It would be interesting to know a) how many other kits look like crap when finished and b) how many ended up in the trash. You're a brave man Gungadin!!
Larry,
Yes, I actually did some scratch building on the kit. Still, an excellent kit and well designed even though many parts didn't fit properly.
Interesting a & b observation. And, thank you for the kind compliment.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on January 02, 2026, 05:04:40 PMWell, those roof parts should be relatively easy to build through a combination of measurements (top, bottom, length). I'd do this in heavy paper first, to get the sizes correct, and then cut from cardstock. So a PITA, but a typical PITA for a complex structure... Having that solid subroof (including the sanding to get it to fit along the Witch's Hat tower roof) should make the overall construction of the roof easier than it would have been to do totally from scratch.
dave
Dave,
Good suggestions but I'll stay with the thin cardboard for the initial cuts.
I've already finished the angled roof panels and it was much easier than I originally thought.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 02, 2026, 06:42:46 PMGood luck Tom, but I know you'll get it done, and done well.
Butty Curt,
Thank you and yes, it did get it done. Stay tuned for the update.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on January 03, 2026, 11:43:07 AMHowdy Tom,
Good luck with the top. With the skills you used with the turret and bay windows, the roof shouldn't be too hard.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thanks my friend. It was actually much easier than I anticipated. Updates to follow.
Tom
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 03, 2026, 11:53:59 AMQuote from: deemery on January 02, 2026, 05:04:40 PMWell, those roof parts should be relatively easy to build through a combination of measurements (top, bottom, length). I'd do this in heavy paper first, to get the sizes correct, and then cut from cardstock. So a PITA, but a typical PITA for a complex structure... Having that solid subroof (including the sanding to get it to fit along the Witch's Hat tower roof) should make the overall construction of the roof easier than it would have been to do totally from scratch.
dave
Dave,
Good suggestions but I'll stay with the thin cardboard for the initial cuts.
I've already finished the angled roof panels and it was much easier than I originally thought.
Tom
Looking forward to seeing the result (and description of the process.) Glad this was relatively painless!! These days on most structures I do a roof mockup in paper. (On the Machine Shop, I did the boiler roof a couple times in paper, then transferred the result to clear styrene. 'clear', so I could make sure the holes for the smokestacks lined up properly. Then I covered the clear styrene with the roofing material.)
dave
I decided to start on the wide end of the building as a starting point.
I used the original pieces as a template and recut that piece in thin cardboard. The cardboard came from the back of a legal pad. When I left the State's Attorney Office. I had all the secretaries save a bunch for me. I think I had over 75 sheets of cardboard when I walked out the door.
Anyway, I cut the new piece larger so I could cut and fit as I added it to the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030126114354-566872013.jpeg)
This looked good so I glued it in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030126114354-566881162.jpeg)
Quote from: deemery on January 03, 2026, 11:59:34 AMLooking forward to seeing the result (and description of the process.) Glad this was relatively painless!! These days on most structures I do a roof mockup in paper.
dave
Dave,
I was very happy to have it less painful than I thought.
Tom
I then did the rear section.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030126114354-56689661.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030126114354-56690282.jpeg)
The area above the bay windows was tricky but, not as difficult as I imagined.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030126114355-56691605.jpeg)
The front part fits between the top of the bay windows and the upper roof portion. I needed to make a slight adjustment on the end that butts up against the tower sides. In the photo below, this piece is not glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030126114437-56692758.jpeg)
I made a few cut adjustments on both ends and cut it to short to my satisfaction. I recut a new piece and paid more attention to the end cuts. On the second time around, I got it to fit nicely and glued it in place.
I let the glue set and dry for an hour and then moved on to the next piece.
Again, I used the original piece as a template and traced the edges in pencil. I then cut the piece a little larger than the original.
I cut, test fit, cut and test fit a few times until I was satisfied with the piece. My debris pile says it all.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030126114437-56693178.jpeg)
I didn't like how the right wing fit even after test fitting it a few times. So, I just cut it off and decided to make the right wing separately.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030126114437-56694592.jpeg)
A new right wing was cut and glued in place as seen in the photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030126114437-566961984.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030126114437-566951665.jpeg)
I liked how easy it was to make the right wing. I decided to make the second angled roof piece in three separate pieces.
I started in the middle and cut it to fit. This was the same way I cut the larger end, only this piece was longer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030126114520-566972140.jpeg)
I cut the left and right wings to fit and glued them in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030126114520-56698375.jpeg)
When finished, this was my cut and miscut pile of the pieces of cardboard.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030126114520-567001457.jpeg)
Here is how it looks after cutting the angled roof pieces.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030126114535-567021787.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030126114520-56701967.jpeg)
I'm done for today and will take a few days break from the build. I want to get back to the scenery area around the barn.
That is one cut-up roof and you did a fine job defeating it! :o
What kinda roofing are you going to use?
Well done, Tom!
dave
Wow Tom truly outstanding. I can't wait to see it in person.
Tom,
It appears you finally have this under protocol control. The cardboard looks good and a nice, tight fit.
I'll bet the roof is sturdier than the entire building now. Cardboard is a great medium to use for this type
of construction, but thick where you must sand the ends on an angled piece to best fit it.
I have been using a heavier weight cardstock for sub roof construction rather than cardboard. I have done that
for roofs where I'm using wood cedar shingles due to their greater thickness than paper shingles sold online.
As for doing roof mock-ups, I never do, why would I build a roof twice? Sounds whacky to me. But no offence meant to those who do. Nice work.
Rich
I have this kit on my shelf. I know Jeff speaks to the trickiness of the build, but that has only made me more interested in building it.
Your build (and this thread) is fantastic. Great work
Tom,
From my perspective, all that extra work to get the roof to fit properly is well worth the effort. Everything fits together like a glove.
Quote from: Philip on January 03, 2026, 01:16:27 PMThat is one cut-up roof and you did a fine job defeating it! :o
What kinda roofing are you going to use?
Philip,
It is a very unique style looking roof line. I just seems to fit the building. Thank you for the compliment.
I plan on having the canopy and unique roof line in cooper. Of course, it will be weathered to a fine green patina!
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 03, 2026, 03:11:24 PMWow Tom truly outstanding. I can't wait to see it in person.
Butty Curt,
Much appreciate your comment. It will be here next time you stop by.
Tom
Quote from: Pennman on January 03, 2026, 04:11:01 PMTom,
It appears you finally have this under protocol control. The cardboard looks good and a nice, tight fit.
I'll bet the roof is sturdier than the entire building now. Cardboard is a great medium to use for this type
of construction, but thick where you must sand the ends on an angled piece to best fit it.
I have been using a heavier weight cardstock for sub roof construction rather than cardboard. I have done that
for roofs where I'm using wood cedar shingles due to their greater thickness than paper shingles sold online.
As for doing roof mock-ups, I never do, why would I build a roof twice? Sounds whacky to me. But no offence meant to those who do. Nice work.
Rich
Rich,
Thank you for the kind comment. I did sand the corners for a better fit where necessary. When I say cardboard, I'm assuming it is the same as cardstock. Not the cardboard box type of cardboard. ;D
Many folks use paper and cardstock to build mock ups on a roof or scratch build. Fine if you like it, I just build and adjust as I go.
Tom
Quote from: Keep It Rusty on January 04, 2026, 04:25:33 AMI have this kit on my shelf. I know Jeff speaks to the trickiness of the build, but that has only made me more interested in building it.
Your build (and this thread) is fantastic. Great work
Craig,
Thank you for the very generous and kind compliment on this build.
With your skills Craig, you will have no problem with the kit. I'm very happy I got this one from Jeff. Also, since he said it was a "tricky one" made me want to build it all the more.
I plan on doing a revue of the kit when finished.
Again, thank you.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on January 04, 2026, 08:45:10 AMTom,
From my perspective, all that extra work to get the roof to fit properly is well worth the effort. Everything fits together like a glove.
Ron,
Thank you also sir. Yes, there were times when extra work went into the build. I'm very pleased with the overall build.
Tom
Tom, what's the actual prototype roofing material? Metal (galvanized panels), with standing seams? How do you plan to finish those cardboard roof panels?
dave
Quote from: deemery on January 04, 2026, 11:41:56 AMTom, what's the actual prototype roofing material? Metal (galvanized panels), with standing seams? How do you plan to finish those cardboard roof panels?
dave
Dave,
On the model Jeff Grove built and the kit model has a standing seamed metal roof. The lines on the canopy and the upper roof lines are where the seams are to be applied.
That will be the next part of the build I'll cover.
Tom
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-261125172019-56386890.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040126130050-56703487.jpeg)
Yeah, those photos make it clear. (Copper roofing, expensive, even back in the day.)
dave
Quote from: deemery on January 04, 2026, 01:14:57 PMYeah, those photos make it clear. (Copper roofing, expensive, even back in the day.)
dave
Dave,
Agreed, then and now!
Tom
I've had good luck using a 'weathered metallic' like "Burnt Metal" or "Jet Wash" (Vallejo Metallics) to get the look of tin roofing. (There was an old Model Masters "Jet Wash" color that worked well for that, too.) Another non-copper look would be "terne metal" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terne And of course, if you go for galvanized metal, you can do some cool rust effects.
dave
Quote from: deemery on January 04, 2026, 04:49:43 PMI've had good luck using a 'weathered metallic' like "Burnt Metal" or "Jet Wash" (Vallejo Metallics) to get the look of tin roofing. (There was an old Model Masters "Jet Wash" color that worked well for that, too.) Another non-copper look would be "terne metal" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terne And of course, if you go for galvanized metal, you can do some cool rust effects.
dave
Dave,
Thanks for the suggestion on the weathering. I plan to have a weathered green patina for the copper roof. Here is the roof I did on the FOS Riverbend Church.
I looked for the build thread on the church but it must have not survived the Jimmy D. forum crash back in 1922. I have the build in a PDF file but can't find it anywhere on the forum.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-181020145304.jpeg)
Oops, I found it. Here is how I painted the church steeple for the patina. Look for post #116.
https://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=5364.105
Tom
I got a little more done on Doc Koontz. I only added the roof ribs. These were laser cut and were part of the kit.
The ribs are self sticking. I decided just use the adhesive on the back and not add glue. When I paint the roof, the paint will also act as a glue.
No need for additional narrative as the photos will tell the story.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090126173202-567221388.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090126173203-56723532.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090126173203-56724679.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090126173203-56725929.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090126173203-56726600.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-090126173219-567271916.jpeg)
For the canopy and angled roof, I wanted a copper patina look to represent an aged copper roof.
Here is how I achieved the look.
I started by painting the canopy roof full strength with Floquil Antique Bronze. Any dark brown color will probably work as well. The Antique Bronze is only used as a base coat.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100126131244-56728834.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100126131244-567301884.jpeg)
When the paint was dry to the touch, but not cured, I used a Light Patina Pigment, #1131, from Doctor Ben.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100126131244-56731191.jpeg)
I used a soft bristle brush to paint the pigment on the bronze. I then used my finger to rub it in.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100126131244-56732429.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100126131244-567332373.jpeg)
Back in a few, time to get a cold Diet Pepsi.
As many of you know, a paint pigment will stick to pretty much everything. I didn't want green patina on the store walls.
I wrapped the building in blue painter's tape.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100126131330-567341115.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100126131330-567351436.jpeg)
I've learned to hold a model I'm using this method for over a waste basket. I don't mind the pigment in the can, but it's a bear to get out of the carpet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100126131331-567362041.jpeg)
I painted the top roof with the Antique Bronze and applied the patina pigment in the same way I described above.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100126131331-567371436.jpeg)
Finished the roof! ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100126131331-567381239.jpeg)
Blue tape removed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100126131406-56739314.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100126131406-567401349.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100126131406-567412294.jpeg)
Done for today on this.
Very cool technique and result! The structure looks like it was designed to fit that space.
I notice, though, there's a bit of a color shift on the roof of the new structure, between the photos from the workbench and the photos on the layout. It might be interesting to get a LightMeter app for your phone and see how much difference there is in color temperature between your workbench and your layout lighting.
dave
Looks great, Tom...I'm anxious to see it "up close and personal "
terry
Tom,
Thank you for showing off your excellent modeling with us.
I have enjoyed this build and I am happy that you have accomplished
what you set out to do. It looks very-well put together. The scenery
will set it even more with the surrounding details.
Rich
The street scene is looking fabulous, Tom.
All your hard work has paid off!
Cheers, Mark.
The building turned out great, in spite of the issues. I especially like the copper roofing finish. I have this kit in the pile. After seeing it's issues, it may go on ebay. ;D
Jeff
Tom, the roof color looks like aged copper.
Structure fits perfectly where you have it placed.
Tom,
That is a well aged copper roof. The building also fits very well into the scene.
Tom wonderful job on that roof.
What a wonderful street scene.
Jerry
Wow! Somehow I missed your last post Tom. That is an excellent coloring on the roof and another great how to.
Howdy Tom,
The roof looks amazing. The flat iron looks great in that location.
Have fun,
mike
Really nice build Tom. A challenging kit for sure, the fit and finishes are top notch. Not a kit for beginners. It fits the space you allotted perfectly. Congrats, Mark
Quote from: deemery on January 10, 2026, 01:37:20 PMVery cool technique and result! The structure looks like it was designed to fit that space.
I notice, though, there's a bit of a color shift on the roof of the new structure, between the photos from the workbench and the photos on the layout. It might be interesting to get a LightMeter app for your phone and see how much difference there is in color temperature between your workbench and your layout lighting.
dave
Dave,
Thanks you sir. Good observation on your part. I had the layout lights on but not the layout room lights.
Here are the same area shots with all the lights.
Tom
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130126144657-56742520.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130126144657-56745489.jpeg)
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on January 10, 2026, 01:41:31 PMLooks great, Tom...I'm anxious to see it "up close and personal "
terry
Butty Terry,
Thanks very much, it will be here for all to see.
Tom
Quote from: Pennman on January 10, 2026, 04:37:49 PMTom,
Thank you for showing off your excellent modeling with us.
I have enjoyed this build and I am happy that you have accomplished
what you set out to do. It looks very-well put together. The scenery
will set it even more with the surrounding details.
Rich
Rich,
Thank you and you are to kind and welcome. I'm very pleased with the results up to this point.
Tom
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on January 10, 2026, 06:47:59 PMThe street scene is looking fabulous, Tom.
All your hard work has paid off!
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
Thank you as well. It has been a challenge but I agree, it has paid off.
Tom
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on January 11, 2026, 02:55:05 PMThe building turned out great, in spite of the issues. I especially like the copper roofing finish. I have this kit in the pile. After seeing it's issues, it may go on ebay. ;D
Jeff
Jeff,
Thanks Doc, much appreciated. I think you would do a fine job on the model. One was listed on Ebay last month for $165.00 but didn't sell.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on January 11, 2026, 04:41:02 PMTom, the roof color looks like aged copper.
Structure fits perfectly where you have it placed.
Rick,
Thanks very much for the comment. I appreciate the support.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on January 11, 2026, 08:26:20 PMTom,
That is a well aged copper roof. The building also fits very well into the scene.
Ron,
Thanks very much my friend. I think it will fit just right and will add to the overall scene.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on January 12, 2026, 09:08:52 AMTom wonderful job on that roof.
What a wonderful street scene.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you kind sir for the wonderful compliment.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 12, 2026, 09:15:59 AMWow! Somehow I missed your last post Tom. That is an excellent coloring on the roof and another great how to.
Butty Curt,
Well, you found it and got caught up. Thanks for the compliment, much appreciated.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on January 12, 2026, 09:28:37 AMHowdy Tom,
The roof looks amazing. The flat iron looks great in that location.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thank you, I'm very pleased with how the roof came out. The spot is perfect for the flat iron.
Tom
Quote from: craftsmankits on January 12, 2026, 02:11:51 PMReally nice build Tom. A challenging kit for sure, the fit and finishes are top notch. Not a kit for beginners. It fits the space you allotted perfectly. Congrats, Mark
Mark,
I appreciate the comment and you stopping by. It was a challenge, still is, but I'm enjoying the journey. Definitely not a kit for beginners and I would also push it to intermediate models.
Tom
Yesterday and today, between coughing spells, I got a little more done on Doc's place.
I added the remaining corbels to the structure.
I sprayed the corbel base sheet the same color as the others. When dry, I glued them in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130126145518-567491962.jpeg)
I then painted the large and small corbels with the GN Gray Green.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130126145518-56750219.jpeg)
The corbels were glued in place. I need to touch up the green on a few of the corbels.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130126144657-567462206.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130126144657-567472012.jpeg)
Done for today.
The corbels look great Tom. They' must of been tricksy!
Tom, the corbels really add to the character of the building
Great progress Tom, looking good..... 8)
Tom, glad you were able to stop coughing long enough top get those corbels done.
They do add a very touch to the building.
Ah, neat looking bling! Did the kit include the stairs/fire escape? Really looking great!
Howdy Tom, the corbels look fantastic. Nice job installing them. Have fun, mike
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 13, 2026, 04:06:21 PMThe corbels look great Tom. They' must of been tricksy!
Thanks Butty Curt!
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on January 13, 2026, 09:03:47 PMTom, the corbels really add to the character of the building
Ron,
Thanks very much and yes, I agree. I wasn't going to add them to the back but it looked bare/unfinished without them.
Tom
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 16, 2026, 09:45:35 AMGreat progress Tom, looking good..... 8)
Butty Greg,
Thank you also.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on January 16, 2026, 03:53:25 PMTom, glad you were able to stop coughing long enough top get those corbels done.
They do add a very touch to the building.
Rick,
Yea, for a fact. That little episode sent me back to bed for three extra days. 8)
I agree, it add much to the structure.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on January 16, 2026, 04:54:52 PMAh, neat looking bling! Did the kit include the stairs/fire escape? Really looking great!
Philip,
Thanks for the compliment. Yes, the kit came with stairs. I'll address that change I made in tomorrows update.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on January 18, 2026, 10:17:48 AMHowdy Tom, the corbels look fantastic. Nice job installing them. Have fun, mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thank you for the kind comment, much appreciated. They were small and tricksie but they are now on. ;D
Tom
The kit came with a back subassembly, square with a flat room.
I cut a new subassembly with a sloped roof. My version also comes to the very edge of the concrete slab.
I used some scrap wood and cut two side wall panels.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180126123135-56755567.jpeg)
I also wanted to add a rear door. I chose one with a transom. I cut this in the left side wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180126123218-56760280.jpeg)
Nice work Tom. It great to seebyou at the workbench again.
Here is how the three wall sections looked prior to cutting in the door and window openings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180126123135-56757375.jpeg)
I centered the two windows on the rear wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180126123218-567612240.jpeg)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 18, 2026, 12:53:56 PMNice work Tom. It great to seebyou at the workbench again.
Butty Curt,
Nice to be back. I'm doing just a little today. I'm also starting the winter challenge.
Tom
I got the window openings cut and the windows test fitted. I have the wall section upside down. ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180126123218-56762741.jpeg)
Fast forward and the read subassembly and windows are painted. It isn't glued in place yet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180126123218-56763724.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180126123218-56764692.jpeg)
Done for today on this.s
I've assembled clapboard upside down a couple of times. Now I either clearly mark TOP" on the piece, or add some tape and write on that, to remind me which way is up!
dave
Gee Tom I don't check in for a few days and wham!!! You're going great guns. The corbels look exceptional and like already stated it really adds a lot to the overall look. The one nice thing about scratch building is I usually don't get siding up-side-down since they are added by individual boards; although that's not to say I haven't. Lol.Great work!
Tom great job on those corbels.
Good thing you weren't coughing when you place them!! ;D
And I like tha sub assembly with the slanted roof much better than a flat one.
Jerry
Tom,
Great addition with the corbels and the sloping roof.
You should be getting this wrapped up soon, if all goes well, nice build.
Rich
Tom, that's a nice little addition to the build.
Tom, nice job on the additions, it suits the building.
Quote from: deemery on January 18, 2026, 01:10:41 PMI've assembled clapboard upside down a couple of times. Now I either clearly mark TOP" on the piece, or add some tape and write on that, to remind me which way is up!
dave
Dave,
I've done that as well. However, I've never glued windows in on a upside down wall section. What I showed above was just the fry test fit of the windows.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on January 18, 2026, 01:29:12 PMGee Tom I don't check in for a few days and wham!!! You're going great guns. The corbels look exceptional and like already stated it really adds a lot to the overall look. The one nice thing about scratch building is I usually don't get siding up-side-down since they are added by individual boards; although that's not to say I haven't. Lol.Great work!
Larry,
Well, don't stay away so long. ;D I've done the same thing as we all get busy and don't get to post to every thread until we find ourselves behind.
Thank you for the kind comment.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on January 18, 2026, 01:33:38 PMTom great job on those corbels.
Good thing you weren't coughing when you place them!! ;D
And I like tha sub assembly with the slanted roof much better than a flat one.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you and yes, no coughing was done while corbelling. ;D
The sub assembly will be a nice addition to the look of the building.
Tom
Quote from: Pennman on January 18, 2026, 02:01:37 PMTom,
Great addition with the corbels and the sloping roof.
You should be getting this wrapped up soon, if all goes well, nice build.
Rich
Rich,
Thanks very much, I appreciate the compliment. Yes, I'm getting close to the finish line but need to stay focused and not rush the end details.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on January 18, 2026, 04:07:33 PMTom, that's a nice little addition to the build.
Rick,
Thank you, much appreciate you stopping by and leaving a comment.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on January 18, 2026, 09:50:50 PMTom, nice job on the additions, it suits the building.
Ron,
Thank you and I agree, it is a nice different style addition.
Tom
I neglected to add I added different corner trim in the above posts.
I usually use scale 4X4s for the corner trim but decided to add actually exterior corner trim to the small sub assembly. I stained and glued the 1X4s to both corners.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190126130457-56767391.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190126130457-567681348.jpeg)
I believe the sloped roof adds a little more character to the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190126130457-567692146.jpeg)
I made the roof from 1 ply cardboard.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190126130457-567712129.jpeg)
I made sure the corner of the roof material was square prior to cutting the panel.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190126130531-567722260.jpeg)
I cut the roof panel along with the rolled roofing material. The roofing material is from Stoney Creek. Unfortunately this company is no longer in business. I don't know if the line was taken on by another person.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190126130531-56773115.jpeg)
In the photo above, you can see I glued on two exterior roof rafters.
I glued the roof on and added exterior rafter tails.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190126130531-567741012.jpeg)
I used a toothpick to touch up the rater tails as I didn't want to clean a brush for a small job like this. You don't need to take time to clean a toothpick. 8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190126130457-567701845.jpeg)
Here is how it now looks with the roof and rafter tails. I'll glue it in place and weather it later in the build..
The exterior stair will be added to the rear and the front canopy needs to be now glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190126130531-567752115.jpeg)
Done for today.
Great modeling Tom. Will there be a door on one of the sides?
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 20, 2026, 04:49:31 PMGreat modeling Tom. Will there be a door on one of the sides?
Curt,
Yes, you must have missed this photo.
Tom
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180126123218-56763724.jpeg)
Tom, I agree about the sloped roof.
Nice tip about the toothpick.
8)
Quote from: Rick on January 20, 2026, 05:04:49 PMTom, I agree about the sloped roof.
Nice tip about the toothpick.
Yep!
A toothpick also works well when coloring individual bricks. I usually add a little water to the paint to ensure it flows properly. Mark
Tom nice job on the rafter tails; that's the one thing I hate doing. Nice toothpick tip; say that 3 times.
Quote from: Rick on January 20, 2026, 05:04:49 PMTom, I agree about the sloped roof.
Nice tip about the toothpick.
Rick,
Thanks for the comment and stopping by.
Tom
Quote from: craftsmankits on January 20, 2026, 07:50:38 PMA toothpick also works well when coloring individual bricks. I usually add a little water to the paint to ensure it flows properly. Mark
Mark,
I agree, the toothpick trick works for many small projects. Since the Floquil Zinc Chromate Primer is oil based, I used thinner. Same as using water for Polly Scale.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on January 20, 2026, 08:43:21 PMTom nice job on the rafter tails; that's the one thing I hate doing. Nice toothpick tip; say that 3 times.
Larry,
Thank you, much appreciate the comment and your time to stop by. I can barely say it once, let alone thrice. ;D
Tom
I didn't get much done on this build today. I did get the canopy glued to the front.
I need to add additional weathering, the sign and canopy wire supports.
I also have the strip wood ready to stain and paint for the rear outside stairs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210126162338-56781832.jpeg)
you did a very good job on this one :)
Eric Québec
Outstanding Tom. The canopy looks perfect.
Super!
Magnificent!
Sweeeeet!!!!
Tom you really did an outstanding job on this one.
Good thing patience is you middle name!! :)
Jerry
Tom, the canopy really adds a ton of character to the building.
Quote from: EricQuebec on January 21, 2026, 05:03:34 PMyou did a very good job on this one :)
Eric Québec
Eric,
Thank you my Canadian friend, much appreciate you following along.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 21, 2026, 05:16:57 PMOutstanding Tom. The canopy looks perfect.
Thank you Butty Curt!
Tom
Quote from: Rick on January 22, 2026, 06:09:00 AMMagnificent!
Rick,
What a magnificent compliment, thank you.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on January 22, 2026, 07:59:06 AMSweeeeet!!!!
Larry,
Thank you for such a Sweeeeet comment. 8)
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on January 22, 2026, 10:46:20 AMTom you really did an outstanding job on this one.
Good thing patience is you middle name!! :)
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you very much for the kind compliment on the build.
I've learned from building models over the past to be patient when building a kit such as this one.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on January 22, 2026, 12:56:38 PMTom, the canopy really adds a ton of character to the building.
Ron,
Another Canadian friend, thank you very much and I agree. This would be a boring front without the canopy.
Tom
I added three steel rods for the canopy support. Where the rods are attached to the front wall, I needed to have three escutcheons.
I used a piece of 1/8th OD (outside diameter) brass. I beveled the outside edges with a Dremel cutoff disc so the inside would have a knife like inner edge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220126163322-568022066.jpeg)
I pressed the punch into a piece of cardboard for the escutcheon.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220126163322-568051459.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220126163322-568061593.jpeg)
I used the window mullion for a guide on the support rods. I drilled three holes in the wall and glued the rods in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220126163322-56807689.jpeg)
I also added black pitch between the top of the canopy and wall. For the pitch I used Gallery Glass Liquid Leading.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220126163323-568082404.jpeg)
The pilot model has two signs side by side attached to the front of the canopy. I felt that one sign in the middle was more than sufficient for the signage.
I chose the top sign as seen in the photo below. Then I decided to use one of the signs with the coke sign on each end.
A little more color to the sign looked better.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220126163400-568091016.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220126163400-568102128.jpeg)
As the glue was drying, I added two metal squares to hold the sign in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220126163400-56811880.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220126163400-56812909.jpeg)
I added four short braces to hold the sign on the canopy. Actually the glue holds the sign but, the braces are architecturally correct.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220126163400-568131482.jpeg)
Back after grabbing a cold Diet Pepsi.
Doc's place has three roof top chimneys. These are made from stiff paper/thin cardboard included in the kit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220126163648-56815640.jpeg)
In order to bend them without additional stress on the sides, I lightly scored on the corner lines with a fresh #11 blade.
The kit includes a small wood block to use to square up the chimneys.
I added glue to the back and both sides, folded the sides and pressed all three between two weights until dry. This also kept them square.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220126163648-56816456.jpeg)
I glued the remaining chimney side to the block and pressed all three between the weights until the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220126163648-568172401.jpeg)
I then painted them with Americana Heritage Brick color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220126163731-56819255.jpeg)
Here is the location where the chimneys go on Doc Koontz's building.
They are not glued yet, just set in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220126163648-568182002.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220126163817-568232344.jpeg)
Done for today.
I believe I can finish this build tomorrow.
Tom, what you did today looks excellent.
Looking good, Tom! When you glue the chimneys, make sure they're between the windows. A couple of those temp positions look like they overlap windows underneath.
dave
Great work, Tom. Keep up the good work
Howdy Tom, your work is amazing. It's always an inspiration. Have fun, mike
Tom,
This is looking better and better every post.
That was a great way to make parts for the support wires.
Looking good.
Rich
Tom, I thought it looked magnificent before, but now it looks even better.
Great job!
Tom,
The building is looking better and better with each post.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 22, 2026, 06:06:48 PMTom, what you did today looks excellent.
Thank you Curt Butty.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on January 22, 2026, 06:09:35 PMLooking good, Tom! When you glue the chimneys, make sure they're between the windows. A couple of those temp positions look like they overlap windows underneath.
dave
Dave,
The photo you look at to come to that conclusion is at an angle. The two chimneys are between the read upper doors and the windows.
Tom
Quote from: John B on January 22, 2026, 06:59:25 PMGreat work, Tom. Keep up the good work
John,
Hey, very good to see you. Happy you came by for a visit. Thank you for the kind comment.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on January 22, 2026, 09:49:38 PMHowdy Tom, your work is amazing. It's always an inspiration. Have fun, mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thank you sir for the generous compliment on the build, much appreciated.
Tom
Quote from: Pennman on January 23, 2026, 12:27:53 AMTom,
This is looking better and better every post.
That was a great way to make parts for the support wires.
Looking good.
Rich
Rich,
Thanks very much for the comment and for stopping by.
Again, thank you.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on January 23, 2026, 06:35:00 AMTom, I thought it looked magnificent before, but now it looks even better.
Great job!
Rick,
Thank you also, I'm very pleased with how this one looks.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on January 23, 2026, 10:14:19 AMTom,
The building is looking better and better with each post.
Ron,
Your compliment is very much appreciated, thank you.
Tom
I stained all the strip wood I planned on using for the rear stairs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220126163731-56820558.jpeg)
I took a second look at the kit laser cut stair parts. The railing were very well done, so, I decided to use the kit railing.
This is a first for me as I've always scratch built my own railings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220126163731-5682119.jpeg)
I then glued the platform assembly to the building under the upper rear doors. I also made sure it was level.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220126163817-568241347.jpeg)
I carefully made sure it was square tot he wall and let it dry overnight.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220126163817-56825318.jpeg)
I used my stringers and cut the steps from the stained 2X6s. The stringers and stairs were glued in place and left to dry.
When dry, I touched up the sides of the stringer and steps.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230126141934-568262473.jpeg)
I then glued on the stair railing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230126141934-568271562.jpeg)
I made two small angle brackets for the roof that will be positioned over the two doors.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230126141934-568281469.jpeg)
Prior top gluing the roof in place, I added a few rafter tails. I also used the same Stoney Creek roof paper as I did for the lower sub assembly. Both roofs were weathered with pastel chalks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230126141934-568291290.jpeg)
The finial for the turret was the wrong shape on the bottom. I cut and flied the bottom so it fit as it should.
Also, I painted it with Floquil Brass and found the color to bright. I used Model Masters Jet Exhaust for the finial color.
You'll see the finial later in the thread.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230126141934-56830776.jpeg)
Back in a few, Diet Pepsi time.
The finial and three chimneys were glued in place. I made a few final touches on the rear roofs and the patina on the upper main roof.
This completed the build.
Here are the final photos. Details were added as I went.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230126142011-568312223.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230126142011-568322462.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230126142012-568331503.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230126142012-568341501.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230126142012-56835403.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230126142117-568361703.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230126142117-568371958.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230126142117-56838849.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230126142117-56839623.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230126142117-568401168.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230126142156-56841654.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230126142156-56842527.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230126142157-568432411.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230126142157-5684489.jpeg)
In a few days or possibly tomorrow, I'll add my thoughts and comments on the model.
What a perfect fit!! And a beautiful build.
Jerry
Quote from: Jerry on January 23, 2026, 03:31:47 PMWhat a perfect fit!! And a beautiful build.
Jerry
Thank you Jerry. I'm happy to have this one off the work bench. I can start the Winter Challenge now.
Tom
WOW!
The way that fits in its location, you'd never know it was a kit!
dave
Howdy Tom,
Wow, just Wow, what a beautiful structure. I can't say anymore than that to describe the structure. That said, just WOW.
Have fun,
mike
This is simply outstanding modeling in every aspect Tom. I look forward to seeing it in person.
Outstanding structure build in all aspects.
Final coloring blends in beautifully.
Rich