The Modeler's Forum

Hi guys, and happy new year!

I've been waiting for this challenge to start.  I have been thinking about what I might do this year - with the hope of actually finishing!  I have been gathering materials, locating kits and forming a plan.  I have also been getting ready for a 2fatpossums (our modelling group) two day modelling session coming up this Thursday and Friday.  I'm hoping to make some good progress on this project then.

My project this year is another large seafood processing plant for Tellynott.  The signage is named after that which I found on the small company at Jacksons Bay, South Westland, New Zealand, just before Christmas.  I have switched the name Tellynott with Jackson's Bay.  I like having Fiordland in the name, as it helps set the locale when viewing the layout.  As the plan shows, the site for this winter challenge is an unusual shape.  This is because I have to fit it around existing scenery and structures.  Indeed, I have to join the large bash to both my previously built Walthers Sugar Refinery bash and the end wall to the Creamoata diorama which I built from a DPM M. T. Arms Hotel kit.

Photo 1 - So here is my quick sketch of a plan - the measurements are accurate.  I'll start off with the three kitbashes, and hopefully have time to do the scratchbuild as well.  Living in New Zealand, I did the measurements using centimetres.  It is an odd shape, as I have to fit it around my layout, but it all fits within the parameters with a total of 1775.56 square centimetres (275.21").  I have allowed extra space around the scratchbuilt structure for scenery and also an area in front of the Atlas Middlesex kitbash.  All my dimensions and workings are on the plan.
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Photo 2 - Here is the site on my layout viewed from the right.  You can see it fits against the Creamoata diorama at right and will be joined to the Walther's Sugar refinery kitbash at left centre.  The walls of the Atlas Middlesex Manufacturing and Walther's Front Street Warehouse are sitting in position to help me visualise the finished bash and help me form a kitbashing plan.
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Photo 3 - Here is the site from the front.  This shows the main part of the scratchbuild shown as a cardboard mockup.  There is a further tower to left.
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Photo 4 - Shows the Walther's kit box.
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Photo 5 - Shows the Atlas kit box.
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Photo 6 - Shows the Design Preservation Models M. T. Arms Hotel kit.  I will be using the back wall from two of these kits.  I also have two of the Atlas kits, but will likely only use one.
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More soon, cheers, Mark.

This will be fun to watch!

dave

Mark, Cheers,

I'm in the front row with my Diet Pepsi. 

Tom

This should be really interesting.

Jerry

Thanks, Dave, Tom and Jerry. 

I agree, it should be a lot of fun!

Photo 1 - Shows the view from the left end.  A couple of things to note here.  The building to the left will be raised up to allow for loading docks.  The paper photocopy of the building at back left has a road in front of it.  This road will disappear into the kitbash and I will need to make a cutout and add a beam to allow for this.  As a result, a large part of this side wall will not be visible - which is a good thing because I only have one of this kit and I'm figuring with the added height and 6-story section at back, I will need it all!
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Photo 2 - The plan of attack.  My quick sketch plans are often drawn on whatever is handy.  In this case it was the kit instruction sheet.  You can see my cutting plan at top, the front wall splices to the right and the left and right wall splices at middle and bottom left.  I will use 1.5mm styrene for the unseen section of the left wall.
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More soon, cheers, Mark.

I've scanned wall sides and printed the results to get some planning templates.  Most recently (last year's build) I did that with a South River kit to figure out how to rearrange the wall pieces to get a longer building where the back wall would not be visible. 

Mounting those templates onto foamcore and taping them together was a pretty good way to get 3d mock-ups.

dave

Quote from: deemery on January 06, 2026, 02:34:21 PMI've scanned wall sides and printed the results to get some planning templates.  Most recently (last year's build) I did that with a South River kit to figure out how to rearrange the wall pieces to get a longer building where the back wall would not be visible. 

Mounting those templates onto foamcore and taping them together was a pretty good way to get 3d mock-ups.

dave

Hi Dave.

Yes - I often do this.  You can see the photocopied kit walls in the last photo.  We don't have a scanner at present and it is summer school holidays here, so My wife isn't going into school where there is a room full of scanners and photocopy machines.  I've got a pretty good idea of what I am doing, so don't foresee too many problems in the general shape and design.  I decided designing with kit walls would suffice in this situation.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark nice project and looking forward watching you add your twist on things.

Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on January 06, 2026, 11:52:22 PMI decided designing with kit walls would suffice in this situation.

There's less risk when using styrene walls during design/mock-up than with the old plaster walls from SRMW and other plaster kits.  Every time I touched one of those walls, I lived in fear that I'd drop it!   :o   (If you remember the big Colorado Midland roundhouse project I did about 15 years ago, I did have some damage to some of the plaster walls.  Fortunately, they cracked, rather than shattered.)

dave

Thanks for joining the Winter Challenge Mark;

You've outlined an ambitious project! It will be educational watching it come together, great start. FYI the wife and I love New Zealand, one of the best trips we have ever taken. 

Jim

Mark; This is an ambitious project, will enjoy seeing it progress.

Quote from: Jim Donovan on January 07, 2026, 12:36:40 PMThanks for joining the Winter Challenge Mark;

You've outlined an ambitious project! It will be educational watching it come together, great start. FYI the wife and I love New Zealand, one of the best trips we have ever taken.

Jim

Thanks, Jim.

Just before Christmas my wife and I did a wonderful drive down to Haast via the Haast Pass where we spent four days exploring the area before driving up the West Coast and across Arthurs Pass.  The scenery was spectacular, and is also the locale of my Shadowlands and Tellynott layout.  We did lots of forest walks, I took hundreds of photos and also collected some scenery materials for modelling.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: KentuckySouthern on January 07, 2026, 12:39:58 PMMark; This is an ambitious project, will enjoy seeing it progress.

Thanks, Karl.

I'm about to leave for our two day modelling meet.  Hoping to make some good progress on the project, and have a great time with friends!

Cheers, Mark.

 8)

Hi guys.

Nice to have you looking in, Philip.

I got some good progress done yesterday.  I only have a few minutes before I have to leave for day two of our modelling meet, so a quick update.

Photo 1 - I started with the Walthers kitbash.  Here are the two front walls cut, sanded and spliced together.
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Photo 2 - Here is the right side.
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Photo 3 - Here is the left side.  I have cut out the hole for the road to go through.  I used 1.5mm styrene for the unseen section.   I buy this in large sheets (approximately 4.5'x2.5') from a local plastic manufacturer.  One sheet costs around $15US.
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Photo 4 - Like I said, things were tight.  Here are my leftovers.  I may still use the basement sections for below my Atlas kitbash.  All gluing was done on a piece of glass with some lunch paper between the glass and the wall, using medium viscosity CA.
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More soon, cheers, Mark.

Mark nice start on your build.

Mark,

You have made some great progress in the kitbash.  I really had to look to see where the seams were.  Looking forward to see the next update.

Quote from: Larry C on January 08, 2026, 05:06:46 PMMark nice start on your build.

Thanks, Larry.

I got a chunk more done today.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: elwoodblues on January 08, 2026, 07:33:13 PMMark,

You have made some great progress in the kitbash.  I really had to look to see where the seams were.  Looking forward to see the next update.

Thanks, Ron.

Next update soon.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Photo 1 - Here is the basic shell put together viewed from the left.
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Photo 2 - A view from the right.
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Photo 3 - One from behind.  You can see in this photo I cut the length of the base down and spliced back together.  I have also added stripwood supports for one of the mid floor supports.
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Photo 4 - A view from the left again.  I made up an I-beam and two studs to support the building above the roadway from some bridge girders.  The mid floors have been added and painted black.  I always sand my sheet plastic before any application to give it good tooth for painting.  Mistake of the day - I wanted to add a top plastic support to hold the top of the fourth story walls nice and rigid for painting, before adding the roof.  I had forgotten that my hand would not be small enough to get in this one-story cubbyhole for window installation.  The four story wall heights were slightly out after the splicing and so I added thin styrene shims to the top of the walls to correct.  These will be under the eves and so the fact that there will be no bricks here will never be seen. 
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Photo 5 - Taping the corners for putty.  If you look carefully you can see I have cut a rectangular hole in the fourth floor to allow my hand access from the two floors below.  This would have been far easier on the cutting board before installation, but a dremel and a small saw got the job done.  I also added vertical timbers between the windows from the basement to floor one and from floor 2 to floor four.  There is also a support at the top of level 6, and one cut for level 4 behind the stepped back front wall.
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Photo 6 - A closer view of the structure.  It is nice and rigid now.  I will add further vertical supports for the upper two stories.  The back wall is cut, but wont be installed until after the windows and glazing is installed.  I will add vertical timberwork for this, too.  I will likely leave this back wall removable.
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More soon, cheers, Mark.

Mark,

You have made a lot of progress the past two days.  That is one big building.

Great start. I like the idea of sanding the sheet plastic to help keep the paint on.

Jim

Mark, Cheers,

This will be a great addition to the layout. I'm on the front row for this one.

Tom

Mark that certainly is one large building. I can see lots and lots and lots of windows going into this; should be very impressive to view.

Quote from: elwoodblues on January 09, 2026, 10:52:01 PMMark,

You have made a lot of progress the past two days.  That is one big building.

Thanks, Ron.

I have more progress to add yet.  I typically get a lot done on our 2fatpossums modelling weekends.  I like to start a new project that I can really sink my teeth into, so the timing of the challenge was perfect.  We have another meet booked in for the start of March.  We are getting the tail end of the Ozzy heat wave here in NZ this weekend.  Nowhere near as bas as Victoria (up to 45degrees Celsius), but enough to keep me inside for most of the day and get a bit more modelling done!

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: Jim Donovan on January 10, 2026, 08:29:14 AMGreat start. I like the idea of sanding the sheet plastic to help keep the paint on.

Jim

Thanks, Jim.

It also makes the plastic far easier to mark with a fine pencil.  I don't know if you have access to a plastic manufacturer by you, but it is so much cheaper than buying evergreen or plastistruct sheet products.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: ACL1504 on January 10, 2026, 10:40:08 AMMark, Cheers,

This will be a great addition to the layout. I'm on the front row for this one.

Tom

Thanks, Tom.

Great to have you along for the ride, diet pepsi in hand!  Yes - it is a large gap that will be filled in.  The left end of this structure is at the very end of module 2.  I'll have to remember that when it comes time to work on the next structure to the left.  The scratchbuilt section also crosses the module join.  I may make the enclosed elevator between the main building and the tower removable.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: Larry C on January 10, 2026, 02:37:10 PMMark that certainly is one large building. I can see lots and lots and lots of windows going into this; should be very impressive to view.

Thanks, Larry.

Yes - the windows for this build got a wash and primer spray yesterday evening.  There are brick inserts for some of the window openings that I will also use.  My plan is to paint them a different colour to the rest of the structure to show the passing of time and alterations and developments to the complex.  That is why I didn't glue them in before priming.  The Atlas kit only comes with a few brick window inserts - which is a shame.  I would like a lot more.  That building also has a lot of windows.  Being on a separate sheet and being able to insert them after painting makes the painting much easier.  The DPM M. T. Arms Hotel kit will be the real challenge to paint.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Photo 1 - Here are the back walls from two DPM M. T. Arms Hotel kits.
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Photo 2 - Here you can see I have cut the cornice off one kit wall and spliced this to the bottom of the other kit wall.  I have then cut a section off at left to be the front wall (the left end of these walls has the brick patten embossed around the corner).  I did another vertical cut to fabricate the left wall.
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Photo 3 - Here are the two fabricated walls glued together with a 1.5mm styrene foundation added.  Cuts were started using a foot long steel ruler and kraft knife and then completed with a Tamiya plastic scriber.  I am holding the kitbash in position on my layout against the end of the Creamoata diorama to which it will eventually be attached.
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Photo 4 - Here is a bottom and top wall from the Atlas Middlesex Manufacturing kit taped together.  I have positioned one of the end walls behind the top wall at left, which is what I intend to use to lengthen the wall.
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Photo 5 - Shows the elevator shaft walls from one kit.  My intention is to splice the walls from two elevator shafts together vertically to create an eight story shaft.
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Photo 6 - Test fitting and checking out the appearances.
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More soon, cheers, Mark.

I think Middlesex Mfg is one of the all time great kitbashing kits.  I always enjoy seeing big buildings and good kitbashes. 

dave

Mark that's quite the building. Your imagineering techniques are really good; but I think you'll be seeing windows in your sleep after this build.

YIPES Mark !!!!! :o  At the rate you going you are going to be finished in a week.  ;D

That is one huge building.  I just moved my chair closer to the front.

Quote from: elwoodblues on January 11, 2026, 07:37:47 PMYIPES Mark !!!!! :o  At the rate you going you are going to be finished in a week.  ;D

That is one huge building.  I just moved my chair closer to the front.

All but the window glazing :-(  

dave

Quote from: deemery on January 11, 2026, 04:02:22 PMI think Middlesex Mfg is one of the all time great kitbashing kits.  I always enjoy seeing big buildings and good kitbashes.

dave

Thanks, Dave.

Its very handy having such big walls.  It means a lot less splicing together.  My favourite so far would be the Heljan brewery and malt house.  I've created two large kitbashes on my layout from one kit and I still have walls left over.  The Walthers American Hardware co. is another good one.  Like the DPM M T Arms hotel, it has two walls of one design and two walls of another.  I find these sorts of kits very versatile, especially if you buy two of them.  Milwaukee beer and ale is another good one.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: Larry C on January 11, 2026, 06:01:55 PMMark that's quite the building. Your imagineering techniques are really good; but I think you'll be seeing windows in your sleep after this build.

Thanks, Larry.

I guess it makes a change from sheep!

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: elwoodblues on January 11, 2026, 07:37:47 PMYIPES Mark !!!!! :o  At the rate you going you are going to be finished in a week.  ;D

That is one huge building.  I just moved my chair closer to the front.

Thanks, Ron.

Never fear - the painting will take a lot longer!

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Photo 1 - Shows the splice of the end wall to the front and back wall.  Whenever I splice a wall that has a 45degree chamfer on it I tack the walls together and then lay a bead of plastic rod in the rebate.  More CA is then added to create a strong bond.
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Photo 2 - The foundation sections were cut off one group of three walls and then three 8-story walls were created.  These were then glued together.  I fabricated some square pieces of 1.5mm styrene and glued between all the floors to keep the tower square and true (two of these are visible in photo 3).  I fabricated a brick insert to lay in the door opening on the fifth floor of the main wall.  The elevator tower was then glued to the main wall.  I cut the small piece of roof off the main roof piece and trimmed the cornice for a good fit.
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Photo 3 - Problem number two.  This kit, like most plastic kits, is not designed with painting in mind.  Indeed, most people building a kit like this assemble it in factory colours and simply place it on the layout.  Windows and glazing are glued in place before adding the tower to the main wall.  I wanted to prime and paint the entire structure before adding windows.  This meant there would be no access to install the windows to the tower after it had been glued to the main wall.  Again, I used a small drill to drill holes in the corners of 8 openings and used a knife, scriber and dremel to remove the plastic from the main wall behind the elevator tower windows.  In this photo you can see I have removed the bottom five pieces.
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Photo 4 - Here I have used my razor saw to cut a vertical line through the cornice and a chisel blade to remove the excess.  This is to fit the side wall from the M T Arms Hotel kitbash.
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More soon, cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Below is a bit of background about how this diorama fits into my layout's imagined reality.
We recently when on a short holiday to visit the locale of my Shadowlands and Tellynott Railroad.  It is something I have been wanting to do for a long time.  It is a beautiful part of the world, with one of the highest annual rainfalls, and this leads to a land cloaked in a thousand different shades of green.

Photo 1 - Shows the bridge over the Arawhata River, a few miles before Jacksons Bay.  This is the sort of river valley I can imagine my geared locomotives chuffing through as they embark on the 4% ruling grades.  At the far side of this river was a shingle road that went a further 20km south, as far as it is possible to drive south in South Westland.
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Philosophy

Tellynott is my representation of Jacksons Bay, South Westland, New Zealand, and what might have been if the 1870's settlement had progressed as first intended.  A haphazard town has developed on the steep terrain surrounding the bay and Tellynott has become the hub for the West Coast of the South Island of New Zealand.  It is the closest port to Australia, the closest port to the Haast Pass, the lowest pass across the Southern Alps, and surrounded by seas with great fishing.  Fiordland is some 80 kilometres south of Tellynott, and the waters between are home to the Fiordland crayfish (New Zealand Southern Rock Lobster).  This delicacy is highly prized for its exceptionally sweet and succulent meat.  The Tasman Sea is also abounded with plentiful supplies of Tarakihi, Blue Cod, Snapper and Hoki.  Salmon and Trout were introduced to local rivers in the area, and these are brought to the plant along with whitebait by rail.  Shellfish and Oysters are also harvested and processed at the plant.  In my fictional story the Tellynott depot of the Fiordland Rock Lobster company was first constructed in the early 1880's.  The original structure has been kept and is the timber structure by the sea (hopefully I will have time to scratchbuild this structure as part of this years challenge).  The saltwater environment has been harsh over the past 50 years, and this old wooden structure is rather run down.  As the company expanded, various other buildings were built or acquired over time.  This created a bit of a hodgepodge appearance, with various aerial walkways and small extensions clinging to the side of some of these larger structures.  As my layout is set in the early 1930's, Shadowlands is still in a deep depression, and so things are generally pretty run down.

Photo 2 - A view of the Tasman Sea from Jacksons Bay, over the grave of one of the original settlers.
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Photo 3 - A panoramic photo of Jacksons Bay from the wharf.  This wharf was supposed to be built in the 1870's but finally arrived some 60+ years late.  In my alternative reality this wharf was built as the government of the day promised, leading to a thriving settlement.  Those steep hills covered in forest is where my town of Tellynott is located.
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Photo 4 - The sign which spawned an idea.  You can see the actual Jacksons Bay depot of the Fiordland Rock Lobster Company is somewhat smaller than my version.  But I really liked the 'Fiordland' name helping place my layout locale.  Everyone knows where Fiordland is!
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Photo 5 - A view of the Cascade River at the end of the 20km Jacksons River Road, over the martyr Pass.  The Hermitage Swamp is one of the largest unmodified wetlands in New Zealand and produces abundant whitebait.  This used to be flown to markets by small aircraft.
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The Walther's Fireproof Warehouse kit came with a good number of brick inserts for the openings.  I will paint these a different colour from the rest of the kit to help give the feel of change over time, as if a different brick was used at a later date to brick over the windows.  I will add various scratchbuilt aerial walkways suspended from the side of some of the structures to help convey this history of change.  Painting and weathering will employ techniques to accentuate the age and hard life of the structures and the salt air.

I feel that larger industries appear more realistic on a layout and provide more realistic operation.  I will apply this ideal to the Tellynott depot of the Fiordland Rock Lobster Company by joining together various structures with aerial elevators and walkovers.  This will visually connect the different buildings within the complex, making it appear a much larger industry, and also give a sense of logic to the diorama.  I'm still researching the time appropriate processing methods of the various seafood and river foods, and appropriate details will be added as the scene develops.  This sense of logic expands into my wider layout, with a lot of thought put into the logic of the roads in Tellynott.  Indeed, this is the reason for a road disappearing 'through' the back of this Walther's kitbash.  I also spent several hours working on the track design to get aesthetically pleasing spurs to service the industry.

Photo 6 - Inspiration for the suspended walkways hanging on the side of the larger structures.
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More soon, cheers, Mark.

Mark,

Beautiful photos and a great explanation about the planning that went into your layout.  As I'm sure you know, I'm a big fan!

Nice background information about your project. Looking at Fiordland here and elsewhere on the net makes me think about visiting NZ, but so far I've never been south of the equator in those longitudes.

When I join styrene wall panels edge-to-edge, I fill the joint with tube (model airplane) styrene cement, perhaps placing a styrene sheet reinforcement over it.

Quote from: jbvb on January 16, 2026, 11:56:40 AMNice background information about your project. Looking at Fiordland here and elsewhere on the net makes me think about visiting NZ, but so far I've never been south of the equator in those longitudes.

I've been down the west coast of South Island, although not as far south as Mark's layout.  It's absolutely worth the journey.  

dave

Quote from: jerryrbeach on January 16, 2026, 09:57:44 AMMark,

Beautiful photos and a great explanation about the planning that went into your layout.  As I'm sure you know, I'm a big fan!

Thank you for your kind words, Jerry.

I was trying to give context to the diorama I am building for this challenge.  Question one asks about your philosophy, approach and techniques used when building your diorama.  I felt I needed to set the scene in order to show the thinking behind my actions.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: jbvb on January 16, 2026, 11:56:40 AMNice background information about your project. Looking at Fiordland here and elsewhere on the net makes me think about visiting NZ, but so far I've never been south of the equator in those longitudes.

When I join styrene wall panels edge-to-edge, I fill the joint with tube (model airplane) styrene cement, perhaps placing a styrene sheet reinforcement over it.

Thanks, James.

Keep an eye on my layout thread.  I'm updating again and I will be adding a few photos from our trip.  I took 688 photos while away!  There certainly wont be that many, but I think it is good to set the scene of where my fictional layout resides in my alternative history.

Cheers, Mark.

Certainly an interesting project with all the cutting up of kit walls to make something new.
Great design and what you've done so far looks very good.

Quote from: Rick on January 16, 2026, 03:50:30 PMCertainly an interesting project with all the cutting up of kit walls to make something new.
Great design and what you've done so far looks very good.

Thanks, Rick.

I do enjoy cutting up kits and making something new!  Plodding away at things.  It was a bit too windy at the dog show today to make much progress.  I got some windows glazed ready for installation.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Philosophy continued

Another big part of my approach to my structure modelling is to try to always think of my kits as a box of bits.  This includes, to some degree, craftsman kits.  I try to change everything I build significantly from what is intended to create something unique.  I kitbash, kitmingle and scratchbuild.  I often use prototype photos as inspiration and then try to think of kits I own that resemble that look, and then go about cutting those kits up and splicing them back together to create a 'feel' that gets me close.  Planning is usually done with scissors, cardboard and sellotape and photocopies of the kit walls.

Back to the build

Photo 1 - Test fitting to see how things are looking.  The Walther's kitbash has been primed with grey primer.
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Photo 2 - A view from the original structure at the shoreline.  This shot shows a little of the lower tower and angled covered conveyer.  This will be a fun little scratchbuild.  I hope I can find the time!
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Photo 3 - In a little closer.  I'm holding the DPM kitbash in place.
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Photo 4 - Paint colours going on.  I decided on Josonja's burnt umber for the main colour.  I wanted a dark colour to contrast nicely with the brick inserts.  I smeared in a bit of red ochre and mars black as I painted.  I used a large round brush and wiped most of the paint off.
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Photo 5 - I painted the brick inserts with the Studio Acrylics red ochre mixed with varying amounts of Reeves mars black for variation.
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Photo 6 - After gluing in the brick inserts I went about picking out a few bricks here and there in darker and lighter shades.
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More soon, cheers, Mark.

That's coming along really well.  I like the dark brick on the main structure walls, that's something I wouldn't have thought to try.

dave

Quote from: deemery on January 18, 2026, 04:59:08 PMThat's coming along really well.  I like the dark brick on the main structure walls, that's something I wouldn't have thought to try.

dave

Even the oldest coots among us barely remember when everything burned coal, from the local gasworks and electric power plant to the downtown businesses to everyone's house. My layout's structures probably aren't dirty enough for 1950, though maybe much of the winter soot would have washed off the houses by August.

Quote from: deemery on January 18, 2026, 04:59:08 PMThat's coming along really well.  I like the dark brick on the main structure walls, that's something I wouldn't have thought to try.

dave

Thanks, Dave.

I tried this colour on a much smaller structure on my layout a few years back.  After grout was added I really liked the way it came out.  So I thought I would try it on something bigger.  I'm planning on doing the Large Atlas kitbash a more classic brick colour.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: jbvb on January 18, 2026, 05:51:46 PM

Quote from: deemery on January 18, 2026, 04:59:08 PMThat's coming along really well.  I like the dark brick on the main structure walls, that's something I wouldn't have thought to try.

dave

Even the oldest coots among us barely remember when everything burned coal, from the local gasworks and electric power plant to the downtown businesses to everyone's house. My layout's structures probably aren't dirty enough for 1950, though maybe much of the winter soot would have washed off the houses by August.

Hi James.

Tellynott has a lot of stacks and the area has a lot of coal, so everyone will be burning it.  There is also the fact that the area in which Shadowlands is set has one of the highest rainfalls in the world to take into consideration...

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Photo 1 - Here are the colours I used for the Walther's kitbash.
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Photo 2 - I tried Selleys 'spackfilla rapid' as a grout. 
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Photo 3 - I put about a teaspoon full in a small container and watered it down to the consistency of milk.  I applied this with a #4 round brush, working it into all the mortar lines.  I wiped the excess off with a damp cloth, rinsing as necessary in a bucket of water.  I took the majority off with an initial pass, cleaned the cloth, and then went back over the wall again getting the rest off and using my finger nail through the cloth to remove spackle under sills and around lintels.
IMG20260115123257comp.jpg

Photo 4 - Here is the end result.
IMG20260115122433comp.jpg

Photo 5 - A closer view.  I liked the outcome and will use this method again.  On walls with lots of positive and negative detail I think my usual chalk grouting will probably still prove better, as it is easy to remove excess with a small brush.
IMG20260115140920comp.jpg

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Continuing...

Photo 6 - I  washed the windows in dish washing detergent and warm water (as I did with the Walther's kitbash) and after it had dried I sprayed with grey primer.  I let this cure and then sprayed with Belton molotow premium moss green.  I dry brushed the front with Josonja's unbleached titanium.  I then dry brushed using a number 7 round brush from the back of the windows, hitting at an angle up, down, left and right, using Mig old wood.  I used a light prodding motion.  I then hit the front straight on.  Finally, I dry brushed with Josonja's antique green.
IMG20260116155525comp.jpg

Photo 7 - Here are two of my dry brushing colours for the windows.
IMG20260115173119comp.jpg

Photo 8 - We had visitors around so I snuck the kitbash into position.  Here it is with the windows put in on the right side.
IMG20260116151120comp.jpg

Photo 9 - I glued the glazing to the back side of the windows using Zap high viscosity CA.  I sprayed the back of the glazing with Dullcote.  There was some cutting of the excess plastic around some of the windows to fit around my bracing timber.  I test fitted each window as I went.  There was usually some tweaking to be done to get a good fit.  I also worked out which hand was going to hold the window and exactly what motion was to be used to get the window into position.  Some of them were rather tricky to get to!  I then applied 10 drops of medium viscosity CA around the window and contorted my chosen arm with the window precariously balanced on my finger tip and inserted the window into the opening.  All went fairly well until Wilbur, or bullmastiff, went past at great speed and got the chord of the lamp caught around his leg!  In order to save the lamp from crashing to the concrete floor I had to let go of the structure with one hand and hold it just with the other while I unraveled the panicked dog.  When I returned to my work, fearing great disaster, by some miracle the window had slipped snuggly into position while I was wresting with the dog and the lamp.  I don't trust CA long term, so I add Aleenes tacky glue around both the pains of glazing and the windows.  I did one wall at a time and then applied the tacky glue and let set over night.
IMG20260116154253comp.jpg

More soon, cheers, Mark.

I don't think I'll try to recreate your window seating approach, not even with one of our toy poodles... 

The window coloring makes a nice contrast with the brick.

dave

Mark,

I had a lot of catching up to do.  :o  I was afraid that the size of the building would overpower the adjacent structures but looking at the building in place it fits right in.  I also like the contrast between the main building and the window inserts.

Mark, your brick walls look very realistic.

 8) A very industrious project! Looking great!

Quote from: elwoodblues on January 18, 2026, 09:48:19 PMMark,

I had a lot of catching up to do.  :o  I was afraid that the size of the building would overpower the adjacent structures but looking at the building in place it fits right in.  I also like the contrast between the main building and the window inserts.

Thanks, Ron.

I think when the low pitched gable roof goes on with cupola it will change things up again.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: deemery on January 18, 2026, 07:17:35 PMI don't think I'll try to recreate your window seating approach, not even with one of our toy poodles... 

The window coloring makes a nice contrast with the brick.

dave

Thanks, Dave.

A poodle would definitely be better.  Wilbur weighs around 140 pounds!

I'm pleased with that green.  They are nice paints, but I noticed the stock was rather low last time I was in the art shop - I hope they are not discontinuing the range!

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: Rick on January 19, 2026, 05:36:49 AMMark, your brick walls look very realistic.

Thanks, Rick.

Brick walls are fun to do.  I'm enjoying kitbashing again.  Its been a little while.  That board on board sawmill has taken an age...

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: Philip on January 19, 2026, 01:51:45 PM8) A very industrious project! Looking great!

Thanks, Philip.

I'm hoping to keep the momentum up!

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Photo 1 - You can see I have added an angled styrene wall and roof for the road to disappear into.  Before the windows were added I painted the sills with Tamiya FX-83 medium sea grey.
IMG20260119093714comp.jpg

Photo 2 - Here is the area surrounding the kitbash that will be added to the left.  This kitbash will not be a part of the challenge, but I will likely mock something up so you get the gist.
IMG20260119093704comp.jpg

Photo 3 - The front wall.
IMG20260119093620comp.jpg

Photo 4 - a close up of the 5th and 6th story frontage.
IMG20260119093724comp.jpg

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on January 19, 2026, 03:56:55 PMA poodle would definitely be better.  Wilbur weighs around 140 pounds!

I'm pleased with that green.  They are nice paints, but I noticed the stock was rather low last time I was in the art shop - I hope they are not discontinuing the range!

Cheers, Mark.

My 'fat boy' weighs less than 14 lbs (but he feels a lot heavier when he's tight next to me trying to push me off the bed...), the other one is about 11 1/2 lbs.  What do you use to thin the acrylics for brushing?

dave

QuoteWhat do you use to thin the acrylics for brushing?

For the brickwork, I don't thin.  For the sills when using Tamiya FX I use isopropyl alcohol.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark great coloring on the brick walls; something different.

Quote from: Larry C on January 20, 2026, 08:39:40 PMMark great coloring on the brick walls; something different.

Thanks, Larry.

Yes - a change is as good as a holiday...  Hoping to get a bit more done on modelling Thursday.  I might 'pool' supplies for that scratchbuild.  That way I can do a bit of pre planning modelling!  Any excuse!

Cheers, Mark.

Mark, excellent progress and terrific coloring choices.

Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 22, 2026, 06:25:26 PMMark, excellent progress and terrific coloring choices.

Thanks very much, Curt.

There are some nice colours in that spray paint range.  I was in the art shop on Wednesday and asked about their unstocked shelves.  Apparently they are so popular they can't keep up with the orders.  No problems with getting anything, and all the colour swatches are on their website.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

A short update.

Photo 1 - Here is a photo of the DPM kitbash glued at right angles to the Atlas kitbash.  As previously shown I had cut, chiseled and sanded any positive detail from the Atlas wall in order to achieve a good, tight fit when joining the two walls.  I applied a bead of medium CA to edge of the bottom half of the DPM wall and then glued in position.  The top half I applied a bead of thin CA to the inside seam, held in position and let the capillary action create a bond.  I used a square when gluing to make sure things were pretty good for 90 degrees.
IMG20260123132802comp.jpg

Photo 2 - Using my paper plan I had drawn up along with measurements of the walls, I marked and cut out a base from 1.5mm styrene.  I bought 3 more sheets of this last week so I should be all good for a few more years!  The sheets are 4 1/2' x 2 1/2'.  On todays exchange rate they cost a little under $20US a sheet.  I made a copy of the base before trimming to fit the kit base I had attached and the small jut out at the end of the wall.  I had to allow for the thickness of the walls.  I glued the base into position on a flat surface with a piece of grease proof paper on top.  After this had set I applied Aleenes tacky glue to the back of all the joins, but left gaps around the basement windows.  I want to test fit this on the layout before adding a roof and floors, and as this modelling Thursday was at my friend, Neil's house, I left this project to set up while I carried on with something else.
IMG20260123132829comp.jpg

Photo 3 - A closeup shot.
IMG20260123132836comp.jpg

Photo 4 - I started marking out and cutting walls for the scratchbuild.  There was a fair bit of decision making about the types of cladding materials I would use, and this slowed me down a bit.  I decided to mix up the front wall with thin vertical siding for the tower and weatherboard to the left and right.  The wall to the left of the tower actually sits considerably higher than shown in the photo, and I will splice some 1.5mm styrene to the bottom.  The majority of the rest of the cladding will be wider vertical scribed siding.
IMG20260123133009comp.jpg

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Mark,

I don't know how you can build so many structures all at once!.
I would be lost.

Rich

Mark, nice job of glueing the walls together.

Mark,

The way you cut the wall sections and glue them together seamlessly is incredible.  Once painted the seams will be invisible.

Mark nice work on getting the walls fitted tightly. Like Ron said once painted it will look seamless. Have fun with the scratch build.

Mark those walls glued together perfect!!

Jerry

Quote from: Pennman on January 23, 2026, 12:34:40 AMMark,

I don't know how you can build so many structures all at once!.
I would be lost.

Rich

Hi Rich.

If this building was a kit it would come with walls cut to size and shape and with all the openings cut in the walls.  Things would be labeled and there would be some sort of construction sequence.  Windows and doors would be selected (or materials and templates provided - I think I will have to scratchbuild most of the doors) and corner trim and stripwood for loading docks, decks, rafters and other trim packaged.  I can do all of that and then put the build aside.  This time around I'm hoping to do all of that and keep going.  I can juggle four balls pretty well.  I never quite got the hang of five - maybe its time to get them out and start practicing again!

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: Rick on January 23, 2026, 06:31:48 AMMark, nice job of glueing the walls together.

QuoteThe way you cut the wall sections and glue them together seamlessly is incredible.  Once painted the seams will be invisible.

QuoteMark nice work on getting the walls fitted tightly. Like Ron said once painted it will look seamless. Have fun with the scratch build.

QuoteMark those walls glued together perfect!!

Thanks, Rick, Ron, Larry and Jerry.

I bit of time spent at the fitting stage always pays dividends.  I often do the same when doing an internal corner with weatherboards.  I should find time today to do a test fit and hopefully get a bit more done tomorrow, Sunday.

Cheers, and thanks for following along, Mark.

Mark, Cheers,

You are making some great progress. I really like the wall colors, the brick insert contrast as well as the green windows. They seem to please my eye as very natural looking for old brick buildings.

Fantastic, step by step, I'm enjoying the journey.

Tom

Quote from: ACL1504 on January 23, 2026, 03:10:20 PMMark, Cheers,

You are making some great progress. I really like the wall colors, the brick insert contrast as well as the green windows. They seem to please my eye as very natural looking for old brick buildings.

Fantastic, step by step, I'm enjoying the journey.

Tom

Thank you for your kind words, Tom.

I went through the paint swatches for the Belton range of spray paints, writing down the #'s and names of anything I though I might use on buildings.  I listed over 80 different colours!  That would be over $1,000, so I wont be buying all those!  But it is nice to know there are so many options available.  Greens, browns and off whites seem to work well for window and door colours to my eye, and contrast nicely with the brick colours.  I was pleased with how easily and well my quick method of 'stabbing' on the weathered wood colour and dry brushing with a lighter shade of green was.  I think the windows look much better weathered.

I'm pleased you are enjoying my step-by-step.  I like to let pictures tell the story for the most part and just fill in a few details and explanations.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark,

Your plan of attack with choosing paint colors makes perfect sense to me.
I try to picture what a particular color would look like next to another one
and what that building would look like in the overall area, and change them up
accordingly. I wouldn't want one to stand out over any of the others. Sort of
a blend-in flow. I like your way of doing things.

Rich

I just caught up with this build Mark.

It looks like you have been very productive with some massive structures and your progress is amazing. Excellent work, as usual..... 8)

Mark, the brick work is great.  I just read through the whole thread, I'll be sure to check back.  Great progress so far, and what a challenge this will be.  Like most of us, I've been centered on my own projects, and it's below zero here, a good time to model. Keep up the good work.

Quote from: Pennman on January 23, 2026, 10:10:15 PMMark,

Your plan of attack with choosing paint colors makes perfect sense to me.
I try to picture what a particular color would look like next to another one
and what that building would look like in the overall area, and change them up
accordingly. I wouldn't want one to stand out over any of the others. Sort of
a blend-in flow. I like your way of doing things.

Rich

Thanks, Rich.

Yes - I feel its important to look at what surrounds the diorama you are working on.  Not just for colour, but for shape, negative and positive detail, heights and cladding and roofing types.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: GPdemayo on January 24, 2026, 11:42:38 AMI just caught up with this build Mark.

It looks like you have been very productive with some massive structures and your progress is amazing. Excellent work, as usual..... 8)

Thanks, Greg.

I'm enjoying working with plastics for a change.  Its modelling Sunday here in NZ so I'm hoping to get a bit more done this afternoon.  We have some family staying with us, but they are leaving around lunchtime.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: craftsmankits on January 24, 2026, 01:10:22 PMMark, the brick work is great.  I just read through the whole thread, I'll be sure to check back.  Great progress so far, and what a challenge this will be.  Like most of us, I've been centered on my own projects, and it's below zero here, a good time to model. Keep up the good work.

Thank you!

Yes - winter has become my favourite season for modelling since buying a lifestyle block.  Those weeds stop growing and the lawns don't need mowing!  Now that the model room has the wall built in front of the roller door things are fully insulated.  The roof at the front has a large overhang and I really noticed a big difference this summer.  It stayed nice and cool during those hot spells.  With a bit of heating winter should be comfortable, too.  I'm looking forwards to getting further ahead on this project.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

A bit of progress was made on Sunday afternoon.

Photo 1 - First up was test fitting the DPM kitbash against the existing Creamoata diorama.  There were several trips in and out to the model room cutting the base and foundation with an exacto saw and craft knife until I had a perfect fit.
IMG20260125144613comp.jpg

Photo 2 - A view from the other direction.
IMG20260125144651comp.jpg

Photo 3 - I then went about filling the corner seams on the elevator tower.  This is what I use.  Low tack painters tape, Tamiya putty, fine sandpaper and a knife blade.
IMG20260125164430comp.jpg

Photo 4 - Shows the putty applied and the tape removed.
IMG20260125160631comp.jpg

Photo 5 - I use a blade to remove the majority of the excess putty and then fine sandpaper to sand off anything remaining.  I finished up by running my scriber along all the front horizontal brick courses at the corners to put mortar lines back in the puttied corners.
IMG20260125164102comp.jpg

Photo 6 - I finished up my day sorting windows ready for spray painting.  Here they are drying after a wash with warm water and dish washing detergent.  There were some 6/6 windows and some 8/8 windows.  As I had two kits I almost had enough to do the entire facade with 8/8 windows (which I preferred) so that is what I have opted for.  I have 6 brick inserts and a few windows for vents to be added as well as a few extras of the 6/6.  I also cut sprues from the downpipes and sanded for painting. 
IMG20260125182537comp.jpg

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Great progress Mark.

Mark your moving right along on this build.

Question who is going to wash all those windows when they get dirty??  ;) ;D :)

Jerry

Mark, Cheers,

I'm impressed, this is way faster than your normal work progress. I love all the large structures and your challenge is looking up, or should I say taking shape?  ;D

Great stuff Mark.

Tom

Mark, all that back and forth cutting and test fitting was worth it.
Nice job getting that section to fit perfectly.

Mark,

Nice job overall, but especially the corners.  I need to remember how you did them.

Mike

Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 26, 2026, 09:37:52 AMGreat progress Mark.

Thanks, Curt.

Chipping away at it.  I had to take my wife's car into town today for a service, so made a quick dash to the art store to pick up some spray paint.  I got four colours for upcoming projects, so I have a selection to choose from.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: Jerry on January 26, 2026, 10:11:18 AMMark your moving right along on this build.

Question who is going to wash all those windows when they get dirty??  ;) ;D :)

Jerry

Thanks, Jerry.

Mmmm - good point.  Maybe I should add some window washes...

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: ACL1504 on January 26, 2026, 03:39:47 PMMark, Cheers,

I'm impressed, this is way faster than your normal work progress. I love all the large structures and your challenge is looking up, or should I say taking shape?  ;D

Great stuff Mark.

Thanks, Tom.

It was great to start the project off with a modelling weekend.  It meant I got a lot of momentum up.  Hopefully I can keep it going.  I know next Thursday's modelling session will be spent making trees.  I'm not sure I will be able to fit one into the diorama...

Cheers, Mark.

Tom

Quote from: Rick on January 26, 2026, 04:02:20 PMMark, all that back and forth cutting and test fitting was worth it.
Nice job getting that section to fit perfectly.

Thanks, Rick.

Yes - It turned out pretty well.  There is still a slight gap between the walls in floor 1, but I didn't want to stress the existing wall too much, its close to 20 years ago when I built that diorama.  I can easily shunt that lamppost a smidge to the left.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: Michael Hohn on January 26, 2026, 04:46:43 PMMark,

Nice job overall, but especially the corners.  I need to remember how you did them.

Mike

Thanks, Mike.

I always think it is worth the extra work on those corners.  I remembered to grab another roll of painters tape while in the hardware shop today.  The one in the photo is getting near the end of it's life.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark those are some tall buildings but fit in nicely with the rest. Great putty job btw.

Quote from: Larry C on January 27, 2026, 07:38:39 AMMark those are some tall buildings but fit in nicely with the rest. Great putty job btw.

Thanks very much, Larry.

I've built the land up in the corners of Tellynott meaning I only need to use three story structures to gain the same height.  I wanted my eye level to be below the top of the buildings.  Of course, I also wanted some variations in the height of those buildings and a nice natural flow.

Cheers, Mark.

Howdy Mark, 

I'm getting dizzy looking up to the top of those tall buildings...  Nice work and a fun build to follow.

Have fun, mike

Quote from: friscomike on January 29, 2026, 06:18:36 PMHowdy Mark,

I'm getting dizzy looking up to the top of those tall buildings...  Nice work and a fun build to follow.

Have fun, mike

Thanks, Mike.

I'm pleased you are enjoying following along.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

A little more progress to share.

Photo 1 - Shows the paints I used.  I tried to match the existing colour on the other walls of the DPM kitbash.  I chose Fas burnt sienna.  The Atlas walls were done using Chromacryl red oxide.  I smeared on mars black when applying both colours and worked this in to the wet paint to get darker patches.  I did the DPM part first and then applied low tack painters tape down the seam before applying the red oxide.  The walls were dry brushed using a #7 hog bristle brush.  The windows were painted with belton #209 CMP dark brown.
IMG20260130145328comp.jpg

Photo 2 - Here are the windows.  I'll weather these as I did to my previous windows.
IMG20260130145000comp.jpg

Photo 3 - Here are the walls.  Next is to hand pick out a few bricks and work out where the exterior elevated walkways will go.  This will help me decide where to place the different windows and brick inserts.
IMG20260130144840comp.jpg

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Mark how about a quick how you weather the windows.

Jerry

You did a nice job on the dirt spots and windows.

Mark love the coloring on the righthand building; looks quite natural.

Quote from: Jerry on January 29, 2026, 11:57:06 PMMark how about a quick how you weather the windows.

Jerry

Hi Jerry.

I'll do a little 'how to' when I weather these ones. 

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 30, 2026, 09:22:28 AMYou did a nice job on the dirt spots and windows.

Thanks, Curt.

Painting the individual bricks helps pull it all together.  More darker bricks in the lighter areas and lighter bricks in the darker areas.  If I am sensible, I will work out where all the aerial walkways are going first.  Not much point painting individual bricks and then covering them up!

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: Larry C on January 30, 2026, 06:16:02 PMMark love the coloring on the righthand building; looks quite natural.

Thanks, Larry.

Yes - I really like that colour.  Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be available anymore.  I put the base colour on a section probably about two stories tall, one face, and then add a few spots of mars black.  I then work the spots into the wall.  The black mixes with the terracotta and creates darker patches.  If I aren't happy I just add a bit more terracotta and lighten the smudge.  I always wipe most of the paint off the brush first.  Experience has taught me that rustic is good.  A swirly, smudgy mess can be pulled together with some individual bricks picked out, and then the mortar ties everything together.

Cheers, Mark.

Yeah, the secret with that Tamiya putty is to scrape it before it turns hard.
If not, then you gotta get the jackhammer!  ;D  It's good stuff though.
I think I'll check back for more tips on coloring the brickwork, that's one
of my downfalls and you seem to have a good handle on it. Thanks

Rich

Quote from: Pennman on February 01, 2026, 12:28:48 AMYeah, the secret with that Tamiya putty is to scrape it before it turns hard.
If not, then you gotta get the jackhammer!  ;D  It's good stuff though.
I think I'll check back for more tips on coloring the brickwork, that's one
of my downfalls and you seem to have a good handle on it. Thanks

Rich

Hi Rich.

Yes - I think I forgot to mention that.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

I got some good progress done on this project yesterday afternoon (modelling Sunday).

Photo 1 - I got some polystyrene strip from the barn and trimmed it to an appropriate size.  I then went about trying different configurations until I found something I liked for my aerial walkways.
IMG20260201121313comp.jpg

Photo 2 - This is the brush I use for picking out individual bricks in a darker or lighter colour.  This is a mid level brush, costing around $12US I would imagine (I paid $20 NZ).  With its very long bristles and sharp point it holds a lot of paint.  If you water the paint down a bit I was finding I could paint around 20 individual bricks before reloading the brush.  After reloading you need to hold the brush sidways on a piece of card and spin it to work the bristles (and paint) to a nice sharp point.
IMG20260201131121comp.jpg

Photo 3 - My hog bristle #7 brush.  Here I am dabbing/ stabbing Mig old wood paint on the edges of the mullions from the back of the windows.  I roll the brush in the paint to make sure it is on all sides of the brush and then remove most of the paint onto a paper towel.  I stab the paint on all the windows in one direction and then spin the sprue 90 degrees.  I do this north, south east and west.
IMG20260201143318comp.jpg

Photo 4 - Here is the result from the front, showing the paint on the side of the mullions.
IMG20260201143433comp.jpg

Photo 5 - What the back looks like after paint has been applied in all directions, from the back.
IMG20260201143749comp.jpg

Photo 6 - A view from the front.
IMG20260201143807comp.jpg

More soon, cheers, Mark. 

Hi again.

Photo 7 - Now I apply paint dabbing down from the front.  If you go in from the four angles again you will get paint into the crevasses where the paint lasts the longest.  I want my structure to look very warn so I was heavy handed with this step.  By removing more paint onto a paper towel you can certainly pull this back a few notches.  If I decide I have gone too far I will try applying a puff or two of the  brown rattle can from a distance.  Dry brushing is still to be done.
IMG20260201144046comp.jpg[attach

Photo 8 - Here is the first section of the wall with the mortar applied.  I tried a small section with some watered down spackle, but it soon became obvious that it was going to be an absolute nightmare to remove the excess from around all the positive detail.  I decided to go back to my old faithful - Gallery soft pastels by Mungyo.  These are a cheap brand.  I have tried the more expensive brands but find they bind too well and stick to the face of the bricks.

IMG20260201170013comp.jpg
moderator edit to repair some mark-up that prevented the photo from displaying.

Photo 9 - Here I am working the pastel into the mortar lines with a nice soft brush.
IMG20260201180638como.jpg

Photo 10 - The oils on my finger(s and thumbs) then work the pastel further, and remove it from the brick face.  They are kind of like giant squeegees.  You have to keep changing fingers/ thumbs.
IMG20260201180804comp.jpg

Photo 11 - Here is a close up.  You can see the pastel gets stuck around the positive detail.
IMG20260201181146comp.jpg

Photo 12 - I use a fine brush to loosen this and then a soft close blow to remove.
IMG20260201181228comp.jpg

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Hi again.

Photo 13 - As this was such a big structure I adhered the chalk to the wall in stages.  Here I have taped paper over the sections I have yet to do.  I fix using an artists pastel/ pencil fixative.  Dullcote will dissolve most of the chalk.
IMG20260201182924comp.jpg

Photo 14 - Another area coming together.  This shows the wall after the first pass with my finger(s) where I remove the majority of the chalk from the brick face.
IMG20260201184140comp.jpg

Photo 15 - And here is the same wall after further working.  I just have the chalk that has built up around all that positive detail to remove now.
IMG20260201184357comp.jpg

Photo 16 - The grouted wall.  Nice and rustic.  The DPM wall has deep mortar lines and there is perhaps too much chalk on it.  I may cover the Atlas wall and spray the DPM wall with Dullcote.  This will dissolve more of the chalk.
IMG20260201232755comp.jpg

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Great looking progress Mark.

Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 02, 2026, 02:51:52 PMGreat looking progress Mark.

Thanks, Curt.

The grouting takes quite some time on a building this size.

Thanks for checking in on my progress.

Cheers, Mark.

Howdy Mark,

Your brick treatment looks amazing.  Adding mortar has always been a challenge, but your technique with chalks works great.  I, too, found that Dullcote dissolves the mortar, so I'll try the fixative.  The walkways are a nice touch.

Have fun,
mike

Great job Mark.  That is one huge building to grout!!

Jerry

QuoteHowdy Mark,

Your brick treatment looks amazing.  Adding mortar has always been a challenge, but your technique with chalks works great.  I, too, found that Dullcote dissolves the mortar, so I'll try the fixative.  The walkways are a nice touch.

Have fun,
mike

Thanks, Mike.

You still have to go light on the application.  Yes - mortar is easy to do on flat walls, but I really like walls with lots of decoration, fancy cornices and the like.  I'm sure you could still use spackle, but you would need some specialised little tools to remove the excess from all those little nooks and crannies.  I might look into that for my next smaller brick structure.  The aerial walkways should be fun to do.  I haven't finalised the design, but I have a few ideas.

Photo 1 - Showing the pastel, pencil, charcoal fixative I use.  Bought from an art supply store.
IMG20260205084642comp.jpg

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: Jerry on February 04, 2026, 09:21:22 AMGreat job Mark.  That is one huge building to grout!!

Jerry

Thanks, Jerry.

It sure was!  It literally took several hours to do.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Photo 1 - I painted the sills with Tamiya FX83 medium sea grey thinned with a few drops of isopropyl alcohol.  I used the same brush as I did to pick out the individual bricks.  I then went about gluing in all the windows using a few drops of medium CA.  I didn't drybrush the windows, as I decided my heavy handed weathering was enough.  Actually, when the windows were cut from their sprues and glued into the building I though they looked good.  As I am changing up the order in which I add the floors on this one, I still have good access from the back and so will glaze in situ.  Of course, I will need to pre glaze the small windows for the elevator shaft (still to do).  I added a couple of brick inserts and some windows with sheeted over pains for some ventilation.  I'm also looking at scratchbuilding a stack for the right corner and adding a fire escape.  Fun, fun fun!
IMG20260203195545comp.jpg

More soon, cheers, Mark.

For removing spackle from nooks and crannies, let me suggest these make-up applicators:
51pSzqse17L._SX679_.jpg
Those should be easy to find at a beauty supply store or your favorite on-line marketplace.  (I searched for "cotton pointed make up swabs")

dave

Mark, the brick walls look fantastic.
Good technique on applying the mortar.

Mark even though that looks like quite the process the end result is really worth it; great job and tutorial.

Mark, Cheers,

Old, nasty and weathered bricks, love it!

Tom

Thanks for the information, Dave.

I do wonder whether they would leave hairs behind as they ware.  I'm sure their will be multiple choices in the makeup section.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: Rick on February 04, 2026, 06:43:32 PMMark, the brick walls look fantastic.
Good technique on applying the mortar.

Thanks, Rick.

I like that well worn look.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: Larry C on February 05, 2026, 10:09:50 AMMark even though that looks like quite the process the end result is really worth it; great job and tutorial.

Thanks, Larry.

It is only really such a process because the building is so big.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: ACL1504 on February 05, 2026, 10:52:48 AMMark, Cheers,

Old, nasty and weathered bricks, love it!

Tom

Thanks, Tom.

Yes - nasty indeed!

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Thursday saw me starting work on my first Kahikatea tree (white pine) and so there was no progress to report.  Yesterday I was back on the tools for modelling Sunday.

I started off by glazing the 8 smaller windows for the elevator shaft.  These were then glued into position using medium CA.  As these were difficult to get into position, I pressed them in first and then added CA with a toothpick to the edges.  Just a drop in the four corners.

Photo 1 - The kit provided reasonably thin glazing material.  I cut this into strips slightly narrower then the window width. 
IMG20260208133756comp.jpg

Photo 2 - I then cut the pieces to height on my chopper.
IMG20260208133853comp.jpg

Photo 3 - Here are some of the pieces.
IMG20260208134109comp.jpg

Photo 4 - I applied six small drops of CA to the back of the windows on the edges.  Using a pair of tweezers I placed the piece of glazing in position and used a piece of stripwood to hold until the glue had set. After all the glazing was glued in position I gave the back of the windows a spray with Dullcote.  When this was dry I worked on cutting out the remaining floor sections to strengthen the kitbash and keep it square and true.  Once these were cut I marked their height on the back of the kitbash and cut and glued in stripwood.  I then glued the three floors and roof pieces into position using CA.  I applied glue to the edge of the floor/ roof that fit around the DPM kitbash and the start of the Atlas kitbash and held firmly in position until set.  I then applied lines of CA in sections of a few inches and held the floors/ roof pieces hard against the back of the kitbash and hard down on the stripwood until set, letting capillary action take the CA were it needed to to make a bond.  After the four pieces were glued in, I did a test fit in the model room.  I needed to enlarge the two cutouts in each floor piece for the vertical stripwood on the back of the Creamoata kitbash.  Another test fit showed a perfect fit.  The final job of the day was to add Aleenes tacky glue around all the windows and doors.  I also added this glue to the top and bottom of the floors and the bottom of the roof piece.
IMG20260208223317comp.jpg

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Great progress Mark. I dislike doing windows.

Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 08, 2026, 03:36:01 PMGreat progress Mark. I dislike doing windows.

I think everyone dislikes doing windows  ;D   That's worse than doing shingles.

dave

Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 08, 2026, 03:36:01 PMGreat progress Mark. I dislike doing windows.

Thanks, Curt.

The windows are nearly all done - Just the DPM M. T. Arms Hotel to go.  Those windows are cast in so there is lots of fiddley painting to do.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark,

Very neat job on the windows.  Most find it hard to maintain focus and keep an edge doing such a fussy, repetitive task.

Mike

Quote from: Michael Hohn on February 09, 2026, 06:23:50 PMMark,

Very neat job on the windows.  Most find it hard to maintain focus and keep an edge doing such a fussy, repetitive task.

Mike

Thanks, Mike.

I didn't find this one too bad.  Access was good, which helped - apart from the eight windows in the elevator shaft.

Cheers, Mark.

Howdy Mark,

I think I would go stir crazy with that many windows. Excellent work adding glazing, and yes, if I only have two windows, I wouldn't like doing them.

Have fun,
mike

Quote from: friscomike on February 11, 2026, 12:49:01 AMHowdy Mark,

I think I would go stir crazy with that many windows. Excellent work adding glazing, and yes, if I only have two windows, I wouldn't like doing them.

Have fun,
mike

Hi, Mike.

No crazier than usual here!  I actually think the DPM windows are the trickiest.  Cutting in in miniature can be challenging.  That is this afternoons modelling adventure.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark, Cheers,

Great job on the windows and all around on the build. Looking good to me.

Tom

Quote from: ACL1504 on February 12, 2026, 08:32:02 AMMark, Cheers,

Great job on the windows and all around on the build. Looking good to me.

Tom

Thanks, Tom.

I made some good progress on cutting in the cast windows in the DPM M. T. Arms Hotel kitbash yesterday.  It does take quite a bit of time, though.  I didn't quite get through it all.  I'm hoping to get the last ones finished off this afternoon.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Photo 1 - Cutting in was done with my Da Vinci #4 long bristled brush.  As mentioned earlier, this brush holds a lot of paint but still gives a very fine tip.  I used the Tamiya XF-83 medium sea grey for the sills and window surrounds, opting to paint these first.  I thinned this paint with isopropyl alcohol, about two parts paint to one part alcohol.
IMG20260212152121comp.jpg

Photo 2 - I followed up with the green for the windows (still to be weathered).  I used Model Color 70.970 deep green for this.  I thinned the paint 2:1 with water.  I still have some touch ups to do with the gray.
IMG20260213172039comp.jpg

Photo 3 - Shows a view from further back.  I really like working with this brush when doing detail work such as this, and can't recommend it highly enough.  I would imagine you would need to shop at an art supply store to find one of these (I have to in NZ).  Weathering should tone the green back a notch!  It was pretty fiddly stuff, especially with the windows closest to the internal wall.
IMG20260213194116comp.jpg

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Mark, this brush?  https://www.dickblick.com/items/da-vinci-maestro-2-hog-bristle-brush-filbert-long-handle-size-4/  

dave

No, Dave.

Hopefully, this works.

https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B00O2UX61E?ref_=mr_referred_us_au_nz&th=1

Very nice painting on the sills and frames Mark.

Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on February 14, 2026, 03:47:26 AMNo, Dave.

Hopefully, this works.

https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B00O2UX61E?ref_=mr_referred_us_au_nz&th=1

Thanks, that shows me what shape you mean.  Not sure I've seen that in bristle, I'll have to look for it.

dave

Mark,

Just catching up on the build, the brickwork and windows look great.

Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 14, 2026, 06:37:27 AMVery nice painting on the sills and frames Mark.

Thanks very much, Curt.

I'm hoping to get the benchwork for this area done today, which will include making a diorama base.  It's quite a bit of work so we will see...

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteThanks, that shows me what shape you mean.  Not sure I've seen that in bristle, I'll have to look for it.

Hi Dave.

The bristles on this brush are 3/4" long at the tip.  I've done a lot of painting with it and it still holds a very good tip.  But best is how much painting you can do without reloading.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: elwoodblues on February 14, 2026, 11:08:28 AMMark,

Just catching up on the build, the brickwork and windows look great.

Thanks, Ron.

I quite enjoy cutting in a few windows.  30 was perhaps one or two too many...

Cheers, Mark.

Mark great paint effect on the bricks. Are you cross-eyed yet from doing all those window? Lol.

Quote from: Larry C on February 15, 2026, 10:38:18 AMMark great paint effect on the bricks. Are you cross-eyed yet from doing all those window? Lol.

Thanks, Larry.

Not quite...

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Photo 1 - So progress on the challenge has gone on a necessary tangent.  This first photo shows a photo taken a year or so back.  It shows the 'sandwich' of polystyrene and ceiling tile top that I decided many years ago to use for my base in Tellynott.  This sandwich sits on top of a 16mm MDF base on L-girder framework and is some 4 1/2" thick.  During the process of installing point motors in the rest of my layout I decided to redo all this baseboard to allow installation of point motors on the underside of 16mm MDF trackbed.  In order to make a diorama base for this years challenge, it was really necessary to redo all the benchwork on this module - module #2a.
IMG20241228184353comp.jpg

Photo 2 - My plan was to remove all areas of sandwiched material where track was to be laid and add rises to the original 16mm MDF and cut and add a new section of 16mm MDF on top.  Cubbyholes would be cut into the lower MDF to allow access to the bottom of the top piece of MDF for point motor installation.  This also means that motors can be swapped out if there are future problems.  I will add a section on this to my layout thread in the upcoming days, and so won't go into much detail here.  However, I cut a large piece of craft paper and then slowly marked and cut this to shape.  Two dioramas needed the track frontage cut off - a nerve racking job!  (This was not just to give access to the point motors, but also to swap the track from code 100 to code 75 and the turnouts from insulfrog to electrofrog.)  The paper template was then used to mark out the shape on the top piece of 16mm MDF.  I also drew the track plan onto the craft paper while pinned to the sandwich, and this was then transposed onto the MDF using a compass, nail and hammer.
IMG20260216174427comp.jpg

Photo 3 - You can see here the cut line for the diorama base (back left of the top MDF - where the front section is sagging).  I still have a little way to go on this project, but will be back making progress on the diorama tomorrow.
IMG20260216153310comp.jpg

More soon, cheers, Mark.

It sure looks like you have been busy Mark.

Mark that is one great looking diorama.

Jerry

Mark gets more done in a week than I get done in a year!

dave

Mark, Cheers,

What a wonderful looking scene. The tall structures really make it believable. Fantastic job all the way sir.

Tom

Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 18, 2026, 07:15:52 AMIt sure looks like you have been busy Mark.

Thanks, Curt.

I try to get out to the model room no later than 11am on a Sunday and work through to 7pm.  It's usually my one big time slot of the week.  Projects like this take a fair bit of just looking and deciding which way is best to tackle the job.  If I just roll up my sleeves and get into it without first giving due consideration to the whole process I typically find myself half way through the job saying 'but what about that?'  Sometimes those 'that's' can be major problems!

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: Jerry on February 18, 2026, 10:10:19 AMMark that is one great looking diorama.

Jerry

Thanks, Jerry.

Cutting the trackwork off the front of the Creamoata diorama and the curved turnout out of the Innes aerated water diorama were moments!  I used a sharp hand saw and just tried to keep things plumb and cut through the 4 1/2" sandwich.  In the end things went pretty smoothly and no damage was caused.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: deemery on February 18, 2026, 10:50:43 AMMark gets more done in a week than I get done in a year!

dave

Thanks, Dave.

I've told you a million times - do not exaggerate!  You seem to be getting through the work in good time at the moment.  The farm scene is coming on nicely.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: ACL1504 on February 18, 2026, 01:42:12 PMMark, Cheers,

What a wonderful looking scene. The tall structures really make it believable. Fantastic job all the way sir.

Tom

Thank you for your kind words, Tom.

Lets not think about how close this location is to the alpine fault line!  Those brick multi-storied structures wont last!  There are several small towns on the West Coast built with half the town on one side of the fault line and the other half on the other side!

https://www.odt.co.nz/regions/west-coast/council-continues-urge-fault-line-properties-be-moved

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Photo 1 - I just thought I would add this photo to show the cubby holes I cut in the original baseboard to give access to the point motors to be installed above.  I cut these by drilling 10mm holes in the corners and using my jigsaw to cut the four straight lines.  Then the hoover to clean up the mess!
IMG20260217194559comp.jpg

Cheers, Mark.

Nice work! I really like that era!

Great job of thinking ahead because the thing hardest to get to will break the first!

Quote from: Philip on February 20, 2026, 09:31:54 PMNice work! I really like that era!

Thanks, Philip.

Yes - the depression era also gives my town 65 years to have been built.  Plenty of time for a substantial town to have been built and some of it to be in a state of disrepair.  Our local town, Rolleston expanded from some 5000 residents in 2006 to over 34000 last year.  It has been interesting to see such quick expansion.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 21, 2026, 08:18:17 AMGreat job of thinking ahead because the thing hardest to get to will break the first!

Thanks, Curt.

Absolutely!

Cheers, Mark.

Mark,

Thanks for the overview of the overall scene, you made some huge progress in a very short time.  With the tall building your new build will fit right in seemlessly.

Quote from: elwoodblues on February 21, 2026, 12:44:50 PMMark,

Thanks for the overview of the overall scene, you made some huge progress in a very short time.  With the tall building your new build will fit right in seemlessly.

Thanks, Ron.

Yes - it really needed to be done.  I have one more very tricky piece to do on the far end of the Innes aerated water manufacturer diorama.  I'm working up the courage to tackle that turnout!  But hopefully, when all done, there will be no issues with fit.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Well, there was a bit too much wind at the dog shows on Saturday, so I spent my downtime reading.  Today, I got a bit of work done on the scratchbuild.

Photo 1 - I got the rest of the walls for the cannery measured out and cut to size.  There was a little bit of splicing to do as well.
IMG20260222152344comp.jpg

Photo 2 - Here are the walls for the tower that will sit on the lower wharf.
IMG20260222160056comp.jpg

Photo 3 - Once all the walls were cut I changed things up and scratchbuilt some vents for the walls.  I used evergreen clapboard and strip styrene to create the illusion of louvers.  I still have to add strip styrene to the three long skinny ones.
IMG20260222191146comp.jpg

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Take a thin point permanent (black) marker and run it along the undersides of the scribes.  That adds shadow, and makes it look more like a vent:
mill-tower.jpeg
(A firm hand helps, practice on some scrap first...)

dave

Great looking progress Mark.

Howdy Mark,

The build is progressing well.  Nice work on cutting the different components.  The louvers are exceptional.

Have fun,
mike

QuoteTake a thin point permanent (black) marker and run it along the undersides of the scribes.  That adds shadow, and makes it look more like a vent.

Thanks for the tip, Dave.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 22, 2026, 09:08:40 AMGreat looking progress Mark.

Thanks very much, Curt.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: friscomike on February 22, 2026, 06:12:31 PMHowdy Mark,

The build is progressing well.  Nice work on cutting the different components.  The louvers are exceptional.

Have fun,
mike

Thanks, Mike.

I was finding them rather fiddly to build so I though I'd give my ptastistruct glue that I found on the shelf a go.  It just melted the plastic and quickly ruined my next louver, so back to fiddly and medium CA!

Cheers, Mark.

Cool looking building, Mark.

Looking great! One big bite for a challenge!  ;D 

Very impressive scene Mark, looking good..... 8)

Quote from: Michael Hohn on February 24, 2026, 03:07:27 PMCool looking building, Mark.

Thanks, Michael.

It's been fun designing this scene.  I was back working on the trackbed surrounding the diorama today.  I should be back working on the structures this Sunday.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: Philip on February 25, 2026, 09:50:56 AMLooking great! One big bite for a challenge!  ;D 

Thanks, Philip.

I always take big bites.  I just have to find time to chew for long enough!

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: GPdemayo on February 25, 2026, 11:59:07 AMVery impressive scene Mark, looking good..... 8)

Thanks, Greg.

I'm looking forward to working on the scratchbuilt section.  I also have some scratchbuilding in the form of aerial walkovers and the large stack that will be fun.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark that's coming along nicely.

Mark,

Don't know how I missed your last update but the louvers look great.

Quote from: Larry C on February 26, 2026, 09:35:48 AMMark that's coming along nicely.

Thanks, Larry.

We have a modelling meet here the first weekend in March.  I'm hoping to make a big chunk of progress then.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: elwoodblues on February 26, 2026, 11:22:09 AMMark,

Don't know how I missed your last update but the louvers look great.

Thanks, Ron.

These is always lots to look at on the forum - sometimes things are easy to miss.  Thanks for the compliment!  We have a bit of a garden tour tomorrow so will be busy weeding today.  Hopefully back to some modelling on Sunday.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

We had another nice weekend modelling in my garage last weekend.  Of course, I was hosting, so there was a fair bit of preparing lunches and making sure everyone had what they needed.  Various requests came up during the weekend for items that inevitably got left at home, and I think I was able to fulfill them all.

Photo 1 - Shows the top section to the Walther's Front Street Building.
IMG20260311170621comp.jpg

Photo 2 - For the long section behind the tower I needed to cut the walls and roof pieces down.  You can also see at left the scratchbuilt wall I fabricated to keep the end square and true.
IMG20260307112524comp.jpg

Photo 3 - I assembled the two square towers.  The roof pieces were tricky to find, as they were done in Clear plastic and packaged with the window glazing.  I didn't look there for quite some time! I then measured and cut down the window walls and the roof sections.  I made a back wall to sit against the 5th story behind and to keep things square and true (shown in photo 2).  I glued together using medium CA, gave a wash with dishwashing detergent and warm water and when dry, sprayed with rattle can grey primer.  The next day I sprayed with rattle can moss green - the same colour as the windows.
IMG20260307112520comp.jpg

Photo 4 - Shows the base for the towers (you can see the raised mounting pieces over which the rooftop towers and cupola sit).  You can see I have attached the main roof.  I made up trusses to keep the roof true and add strength.  There was a problem with the longer roof sagging so I glued in a styrene strut widthways underneath the sub roof to push the sag up.  This helped quite a bit, but I couldn't get things quite perfect.  I will address this issue in a later step.
IMG20260307112533comp.jpg

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Part 2 - While the rooftop towers and cupola dried, I scratchbuilt some doors.

Photo 5 - My method for this is to tape some low tack painters tape, sticky side up, to my cutting mat.  I tape this just above one of the horizontal lines on the mat and can then use this to line things up.  I mark my door widths (internal measurement) and door centres and draw right angle lines at these points on the tape.  I then set up my chopper at the correct length for the vertical timbers.  I generally paint the doors the cladding colour and the trim in an off white.  I used Josonya's antique green (which is pretty close to the moss green cladding colour) and Folk Art vintage white for the trim.  I used 6x1's and 4x1's for the timber.  The one inch thick stripwood is a bit more fragile and difficult to work with, but results in scale thickness doors.  The vertical timbers are laid with slight gaps between them.  I used 6x1's but worked both from the centre out and the outside in, using 4x1's as necessary.  6x1's are added as facings for the double doors using canopy glue, and these sit slightly proud of the door edges.  In this way the facings can sit back hard against the cladding and the doors will be flush with the cladding.
IMG20260307164401comp.jpg

Photo 6 - 4x1's are then added to create bracing for the doors.  I cut these to size in situ using a single edged razor blade.
IMG20260307165054comp.jpg

Photo 7 - The horizontal pieces are cut to allow the doors to open.  Hinges are added.  These are Vector cut ones.  I think I may add bolt heads.  You can see I have trimmed the door head ends.  Thresholds are added and once the canopy glue has dried completely, I cut the tape and then carefully peel it off from the back of the doors.  It is best not to leave this job for more than a day or two, as the glue on the tape holds better and better as time goes on.
IMG20260311174214comp.jpg

Photo 8 - Here are the second set.  These hinges are Tichy Train Group ones.  You can see I changed up the design for a bit of variety.
IMG20260311174233comp.jpg

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Howdy Mark, 

That's excellent work on the doors.  The hinges look terrific.

Have fun,
mike

Awesome!

Excellent job on the door. I'm ordering me some hinges!