Last year when I arrived here the 2024 Challenge was winding down; wow I've been here almost a year already. Anyway I thought it would be fun to have a go; not that I need another project right now.
To try to satisfy some of the requirements here is something I found online awhile ago as a source of inspiration for this diorama:
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The diorama will be scratch built in O scale and probably in the neighborhood of about 8x12 inches; give or take but will be well under the 288 sq.in. limit. This will be a new challenge for me since I have never built anything that looked old and disused. While this will be a scratch build, the detail items will be purchased from the online vendors I use; 3D printing is way above my skill level.
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The first item of business was to draw up a structure plan and since O scale uses 1/4 in = 1 ft. I grabbed a fresh piece of graph paper which has a 1/4 inch grid so that worked out perfectly. One item of note, I usually plan where the outside lumber goes and any interior studs/beams I figure out as I build which for me is an easier way of doing construction. The second item of business was to place an order with Northeastern Lumber which should arrive in about 3 days from now. While I wait for the wood I'll go back and work on my other current project.
Larry thank you for joining the Winter Challenge. It will be really neat to follow along on a 'O' scale project!
Jim
Jim my pleasure and I hope you enjoy my build.
8)
Larry,
This will be an interesting build to follow, which I will be doing. 8)
Larry, I'm going to enjoy following your project as well.
Have fun with it.
Philip nice shades; glad you stopped by.
Ron thanks and I'll be watching yours as well.
Rick thanks for following along. This should be a fun and easy challenge.
Update time:
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The framing for the back wall and one end is finished. Being an old building I purposely did't worry about the cross pieces being level or straight across. I grained the wood with a plumber's brush then used raw umber 405.8 and clear alcohol to color the 6x6 beams then dry brushed grey on top; hopefully I've achieved the old worn wood look I'm going for. Also I place a sheet of waxed paper over the plans so the glue doesn't stick to the graph paper especially if I have to use the same plan multiple times like the end pieces.
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The other end wall is finished so I clamped the walls together just to see what they'd look like. My lumber order should be here the first part of next week then I can attach the siding boards. I do have one inner wall to build in the meantime, which will go halfway across the back. That one will be 6 scale inches narrower so the front comes out properly; once finished then I'll make the rafters.
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The outside of the walls I don't color so the glue sticks better to the wood and the siding plus it saves on materials since they'll be covered and not seen.
Soon I'll have to start thinking about details, go through my stash and see what I can use, and order any details I'll be needing. Trying to stay ahead so I'm not waiting for product to arrive. That's where I am so far and any comments and/or suggestions are appreciated.
Count me in Larry. This should be a good time!!
Jerry
Jerry nice having you following along on this one.
Nice start!
Jim
Thanks Jim.
Larry, you are off to a great start.
Larry,
Great start, this will be a fun one to watch.
Tom
Ron thanks, it's a start.
Tom thanks for tagging along.
Quick update:
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About 90% of the framing is finished waiting to be sided with vertical boards once my lumber order arrives. Constructed the middle wall, which is a scale 6 in. narrower, so the front comes out right. Built the three rafters and glued the end ones so the entire section can be sided in one fell swoop. The middle rafter is just sitting there and will be glued in place after the building is assembled.
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A little bit of a different angle showing the middle rafter better. As far as detailing the inside walls, other than a workbench on the left end wall, most everything will consist of old worn signs, a couple of old cabinets, and possibly a few other items. Being that the building has been left unused most anything of any value would have been removed a long time ago.
Hopefully Monday the lumber will arrive and I can keep going with the building. Most of my efforts will be the ground in the building and the surrounding area outside with details and scenery work. Also I've placed an order with SW for a tractor and some pulleys so they can be here when I'm ready for them. Thanks for stopping by and for all your great comments.
The trusses and walls look good, Larry.
It is a long way for the purlins to span. Depending on your intentions and what will be visible, you could add two more intermediate trusses. To support these you would want a stud on the inside of both outer walls and a stud either side of the interior wall. Two beams would then span the openings, sitting on top of the four studs. The two new trusses would sit on these beams. Of course, if it wont be visible, it doesn't matter.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark thank you. Once the the building is glued together then I'll run a beam across the front opening. As far as the roof goes there won't be much of one left. Thanks for the suggestions on the extra rafters.
Larry, Mark does make a good point. The extra rafters would hold up the structure a lot better.
For the lower walls and for the roof. Think about snow loads.
Rich
Rich thanks for your input and I have been giving the idea some consideration but probably not the way y'all expect.
Larry if your making it like the building you posted.
It looks to be right on.
No wonder that roof is failing it didn't have any rafters either!!
Jerry
Larry, the framing looks good.
Jerry and Rick thank you both.
Jerry I was thinking as I start detailing inside the building I might show a failed rafter on the left side busted and the end on the ground with the other end still on the wall; we'll see.
Now that I have the wood I need I'm back at it:
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The vertical siding is made from 2x10's since they take heavy graining with a plumbers brush better. They were colored the same as the beams but added a heavier amount of grey chalk dry brushed into the wood. Everyone has their way of making sure a building is square so here's mine. A square taped to the work surface and a triangle to hold the two walls tightly together. I run a thin bead of Elmers glue down the end of one wall then even it out with my finger. Once the walls are pressed together it doesn't take long for the glue to set. I usually do back-front together then front-right. After those dry then I glue the 2 halves together. Without a front wall I improvised.
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Here's the left end.
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And the right end.
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And finally the back wall. I added splits, gouges, and missing sections of the planks to give a used and rundown look. Also I left lots of gaps between some of the boards and even a few at an angle.
Next I'll detail the inside walls with a workbench and some old worn signs before gluing in the middle wall just so I can get my hands inside without breaking anything. After that then I'll glue in the center wall and figure out the size of a piece of 1/2 inch foam for the diorama. Thanks for stopping by and for all your great comments and/or suggestions.
Looking good, Larry.
You are better at random than me. Its something I really struggle with. The lopsided and broken boards look great.
Cheers, Mark.
Nice looking build so far Larry.
I like the coloring of the wood and the random attached lumber with gaps.
Rich
Mark and Rich thanks. Before I started adding the siding boards I went with the idea wherever they ended up was fine; quite the departure from my normal techniques.
Nice coloring and detail on the boards Larry.
Jerry
Quote from: Larry C on January 15, 2026, 05:54:21 PMMark and Rich thanks. Before I started adding the siding boards I went with the idea wherever they ended up was fine; quite the departure from my normal techniques.
I'd like to say that I am really enjoying your thread here, thank you for posting! Scratch-building is why I am on this forum.
I don't know anything about the original structure other than what's in the photograph. But I do know something about working with unseasoned lumber, as in lumber strait off the mill. As part of my 1:1 woodworking I operate a portable bandsaw mill (Wood-Mizer) and a small kiln, so I and am familiar with shrinkage rates as various wood species dry.
This chart shows the range of shrinkages one can expect as lumber looses the water present when the tree was alive. Depending on how the log was milled and the species, 8 to 10 % and even higher in certain species, is not uncommon. https://woodbin.com/ref/wood-shrinkage-table/
It wasn't that uncommon in the past to work with rough-sawn and unseasoned lumber, and it is still an occasional practice if one is careful to calculate in the shrinkage. For certain structures it can be used right away. An example is fence boards and also board-on-batten or board-on-board construction. One must pay attention to nailing patterns to minimize splitting. Air-drying, kiln-drying and subsequent surface edging and planing all add value to lumber, so unseasoned rough-sawn lumber is relatively cheap in comparison.
Perhaps that real-life shed was constructed with lumber right off a mill, and was put up without gaps. 8% shrinkage across a 12" board is close to an inch after air drying eventually occurs.
Again, I am thoroughly enjoying this thread, Thanks.
Mark you're welcome and thank you. 99% of what I model is all scratch built; I've only built one actual kit. I enjoy the challenge and the designing process. I'm glad you're enjoying this thread. Thank you for the detailed explanation of lumber and the difference between raw and seasoned; the table was informative.
Howdy Larry,
Nice start on the project. The frame and siding both look terrific. The coloring looks realistic.
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: friscomike on January 18, 2026, 10:26:37 AMHowdy Larry,
Nice start on the project. The frame and siding both look terrific. The coloring looks realistic.
Have fun,
mike
Mike thank you for your nice comments and yes I'm having fun.
Moving along:
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Since I'm trying to show some of my build techniques I thought I would show how I prime some of the details before I add color with chalks. This is a paint stirrer stick with a long loop of masking tape then taped down on the ends to keep the loop flat; and yes I do use a lot of masking tape modeling.The details are stuck to the tape ready for priming.
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Here they are all primed and when dry the paint will have a flat appearance. I used black because I wanted to details to look on the dark side when finished. Once throughly dry then I'll add the color with chalks and clear alcohol.
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Before I start adding any amount of details I wanted the diorama base set to go. This is a 4in. x 10in. piece of 1/2 inch green foam with the edges painted black with acrylic craft paints to make the top area pop. Since most of the scenery will be gravel and greenery I decided to paint the top a tan so the green foam doesn't show. The cabinet in the left back corner is one from a previous build cut in half then recolored with dark brown chalks then weathered with a light amount of black. It also helps make the left wall more rigid. The sign on the back wall left was printed off my computer then the surface was sanded with fine paper to look old and faded. The one on the right is one from the Wood Cutters Shack kit I never used.
The building has been glued in place and is purposely off center. I left a little room on the right for maybe a few details but mostly greenery. The left side is where most of the outside details will be going along with more greenery. The inside of the building will be mostly weeds and gravel; at least that's the scenery plan.
Next will be building a workbench for the front left wall, finish those details I primed, and build the tractor kit from SW before I add the middle wall in case it needs to be more to the right from where I think it will go. Thanks for stopping by and for all your great comments and/or suggestions.
Interesting techniques, Larry! I have a few things I need to try thanks to you. 8)
Quote from: ReadingBob on January 20, 2026, 08:26:15 PMInteresting techniques, Larry! I have a few things I need to try thanks to you. 8)
Bob thanks; glad my techniques are helpful.
Things are starting to take shape:
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The work bench is another scratch built item made from 6x6's for the frame and legs along with 4x10's for the top to give it a more of a beefy look. Everything was grained with a plumber's wire brush then the color added with Rembrandt chalks and clear alcohol. After that dried everything was given a liberal coat of A&I. The wall cabinet on the right inside wall was something I had on hand. The cabinet was colored again with the chalk and alcohol routine with the hinges and latch given a rust color.
The scenery was layered starting with white glue painted on the foam with a liberal amount of green flocking for scrub grass. Over that gravel was applied with the entire area receiving a mixture of 50/50 water to glue with a couple drops of dish liquid added for a wetting agent; everything was allowed to dry overnight.
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Started adding some details to the right area which I'll complete first before doing the left side. So far I had a drill press from a previous build, I save most everything, which I "rusted up" showing it's been sitting around for a long time. Next is a detail of a couple old tires with an old wheelbarrow sitting on top filled with rusted metal parts. Finally a support stand to help with long metal pieces being drilled. I still have to scratch build another wooden cabinet for the far right wall as well as add some more details in this area.
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This is a Fordson tractor from Sierra West to add to the left area with most of the parts all set for priming. The tractor and steering wheel will be primed grey and the wheels primed with flat black. Those parts will be weathered before assembly.
Next I'll work adding the rest of the details to the right area as well as working on the tractor. Thanks for stopping by and for all your great comments and/or suggestions.
Larry starting to come together. The rust on the tools looks great.
Jerry
Larry,
You have made some serious progress there, it is really starting to come together.
Larry, it certainly is coming together.
Couple of questions.
Why is everything so rusty if it's sitting inside and being used?
It's hard to tell from the picture, but is there room to open the doors on the cabinet?
Looking good, Larry.
You are making some good progress.
Cheers, Mark.
Jerry, Ron, and mark thank you all so much.
Rick there's about 2' between the end of the bench and the cabinet so yes the doors could be opened. The reason for the heavy rust on the drill press will become more evident when you see the condition of the roof; or the lack thereof. This is going to be an unused forgotten building when everything is all said and done.
Looks great Larry.
Howdy Larry, nice progress on your building. Loving all the details. Have fun, mike
Excellent modeling Larry.
Those 3D printed parts look fantastic.
Rich
OK Larry, that makes sense now.
Curt, Mike, and Rich thank you for your kind comments.
Rick thanks for your prior observation; this is a whole new type of modeling for me.
Nice work, Larry. Can't wait to see what you do with the tractor. Doesn't the A&I wash remove some of the previously applied alcohol/chalk color?
Jeff
Jeff thank you. To answer your question, not really. It does help bring out the grain in wood and makes it look more natural. On resin or 3D printed I use a smaller amount but only if I want to highlight any grain.
Hope that helps.
Larry,
Great job on the tool shed. I like the wood color and gaps in the boards. I'm glad Jim included "O" and others this time.
I'm also enjoying the thread.
Tom
Tom thank you; much appreciated. Jim seemed to be interested in seeing a scratch build in O scale. Glad you're enjoying the thread.
Larry,
As usual, your project has a lot of character. I enjoy watching models of farm equipment go together, especially seeing the finishes that modelers like yourself use for paint and grunge and seeing the results. Always something to learn.
Mike
Michael nice having you drop by. Thank you so much for your kind words and the Challenge is proving to be a fun build.
Update time:
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The scenery and interior details are finished so here's the overall view.
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Starting on the right side these details I already had on hand. Everything were colored with various shades of browns and clear alcohol. The rusted items I used some brown with the rust color so It wasn't so in your face. The cabinet on the right was a scratch build using scale 8x8's for the frame along with 2x10's for the doors. Had a couple hinges so they were rusted after gluing in place with a fine brush.
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A better view of the left side. I added some rusted items like the vise, a container, a couple of tools, a hook and a couple blocks of wood; again items I had on hand. The old tub, barrels and of course the tractor are items from Sierra West.The block of wood under the front of the tractor is a piece of 8x8 heavily distressed then colored with chalk & clear alcohol.
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This is my favorite view of the tractor. This is a Fordson tractor from Sierra West which is 3D printed. Sort of following Brett's directions I sprayed painted the wheels flat black then used a darker rust color to weather. The rest of the tractor was spray painted with a grey primer. After that dried I applied a color of Rembrandt blue-grey chalks and clear alcohol. The weathering consists of a very diluted rust color. The final step was to dry brush the entire body with black powder. What resulted is a tractor that looks like the paint is very worn exposing some of the metal color and has acquired some light rust.
Now that the scenery and interior details are set I'll start with the outside. The back will just be some scenery material and the right side more of the same with one or two details added. The right side will be a whole other matter. Thanks for stopping by checking out the update.
Need to add some oil stains underneath the tractor. :o Great coloring and details.
dave
Quote from: deemery on January 25, 2026, 12:39:18 PMNeed to add some oil stains underneath the tractor. :o Great coloring and details.
dave
Dave thanks. The oil stains under the tractor should be an easy add-on; good eye.
That is excellent Larry. The details are great.
Looking fabulous, Larry.
I love the colouring of the tractor.
Cheers, Mark.
Very nice Larry on the details. The tracor came out really great!
Jerry
Larry, it's looking good.
Curt, Mark, Jerry, and Rick thank you all for your nice comments.
Howdy Larry, the challenge is looking good. Nice coloring on the tractor and details. Have fun, mike
Larry,
It all looks nasty and rusty, as it should. Great job!
Will you be able to use this diorama on your layout? I'm not sure I read it in the previous posts.
Tom
Mike thank you; much appreciated.
Tom thanks so much. Possibly if I ever get to that point; I purposely did not add any track to the scene so I could tuck it into an empty spot.
Scenery has never been my strong suit so with each new build I'm trying to up my game in that regard.
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On this build I wanted to add some tall weeds. I purchased this paint brush some time ago since it has natural bristles, most are nylon now, to make some tall weeds. I take a small amount of bristles on the brush and tie them off with the white heavy thread BEFORE I cut the bristles off the brush carefully so they stayed tied. Leaving the thread longer than required I add a good amount of white glue to the base of the weeds. When throughly dry I cut off the excess thread, dig a hole in the foam with a hand held drill bit, add a generous amount of glue to the base and stick it in the hole and let dry.
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This is the result on the end of the building giving me natural looking weeds. The pallet is from Rusty Rail and is 3D printed priced very reasonably and come 10 in a package. First I "broke" one of the boards on the pallet then colored it with burnt Sienna applied with clear alcohol. After drying the whole thing was dry brushed with black chalk. The end foam area was brushed with white glue then used Woodland's green flocking next. Also planted some 6mm clumps of weeds before adding dirt to the area. The back of the building had high grass clumps glued along the entire back against the building before adding more dirt to the edge of the foam. All in all I'm quite pleased with how this turned out.
Next I'll start working on the other end of the diorama along with adding details to the rafters/roof area. Thanks for following along and all your great comments and/or suggestions; they are appreciated.
Larry, Thanks again for the detailed build thread here. Like I said, scratch-building is why I came here.
I just wanted to share a bit of real construction detailing from a similar "light construction" shed. I thought of your shed yesterday when I was in this one.
My father-in-law built this "shed" of sorts to cover his firewood 35 years ago. He recycled old 2x6 outdoor decking for the roof, which he laid board-on-board, no shingles. It never had walls, it's just a roof over firewood, some years a tarp on the windward side. It measures 10' by 16' overall, the vertical framing is simply three 4x6 posts on 7 foot centers.
You can see there is but a single 2x4 purlin.
It's still standing after 35 years, 2 hours north of Green Bay where there is considerable snow regularly.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-cpffcvw/0/LPFCS5zq9ZGMmkNDts7HsjkmHLCGVN8pXZdJ95zwv/L/i-cpffcvw-L.jpg) (https://weldtoride.smugmug.com/Other/Modeling/n-ZCSMbV/i-cpffcvw/A)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-V7JDqPT/0/KmVXrVSTkSvbpdKdtNJpVdP7vJZsZTQS6nJ2G9VRF/L/i-V7JDqPT-L.jpg) (https://weldtoride.smugmug.com/Other/Modeling/n-ZCSMbV/i-V7JDqPT/A)
Howdy Larry,
The shed is looking "rode hard and put up wet". I like the gaps in the boards, the weeds out back, and the dried Johnson grass on the end. Now all you need is some kudzu vines to make it look abandoned.
Persist and have fun,
mike
Larry, scenery looks good.
Good technique using the fibers from the brush.
I would cut down the length of that weed.
I would probably make a bunch of those weeds but much shorter and scatter them around.
The scenery looks good Larry. Nice coloring on the weeds.
I think the weed is a bit tall also.
Question what are you going to tell Ellie when she wants something painted and you no longer have that brush!!! ;D
Jerry
Mark thanks for the photos and it's still standing after all those years. Looks like he knew what he ws doing when he built it.
Mike thank you; need thought about adding vines...hmm.
Rick and Jerry thank you both. I'll see what I can do about the tall one without making it look flat on top.
Jerry I would never use that type of brush for painting they leave too many brush marks.
Larry along with the others I would try to spread out the top a little bit so it's not straight up and down.
Saying that, using the brush like you did is innovative and something else I had never thought of doing.
Curt thanks for the suggestion on fixing the tall weed; I want to avoid cutting at all costs...thanks. I saw that idea on a video and it looked pretty easy and I think they look great.
Larry,
Just catching up on the build. I'm not going to mentioned anything about the weeds as other people have mentioned already. I will mention the "Rule of Three" as I cal it. Scenery items look better when places in odd numbers (except one, which is the loneliest number). If I'm doing bushes or trees in the same area, I tend to use 3,5,7 etc.
The build is looking great by the way, especially all the rusted junk.
Ron thanks for the tip. I knew scenery items look better in odd numbers so maybe I can sneak in another clump of weeds on that area,; since there are 2 clumps of weeds on that side. Thank you on the build. The rusted junk takes longer to do than making it look just used but that's part of the fun.
Quote from: Jerry on January 29, 2026, 10:29:25 PMQuestion what are you going to tell Ellie when she wants something painted and you no longer have that brush!!! ;D
Jerry
That's OK Jerry, Kris has a few he could borrow! ;D
Rich
Larry, Wow! I've been awall again! Posting now for maybe an hour trying to play catch-up
with all of the great modeling going on. Your build is looking good. I'll be back to pay
closer attention to this, it's really late now.
Rich
Thanks for stopping by Rich and I look forward to your comments when you get a chance.
I was given a couple of suggestions so here are the results:
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Ron had pointed out to do scenery materials in odd numbers with 3 being the least amount for more interest (trees, bushes, etc) so I added another clump of tall weeds to make 3 to the end scene; thanks Ron.
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Dave had mentioned having oil spots under the tractor which seemed like a good idea so here they are; thanks Dave for the suggestion.
Moving forward with the Challenge:
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To keep some consistency I tried to make the right end of the diorama the same way as I made the left. Started by working in small sections at a time painting white glue to the foam then adding green course flocking followed by dirt and assorted types of overgrowth, scrub grass, and clumps of weeds. Also added some real boulders (stones collected last fall from the driveway).
IMG_0027.jpg
The large pulley setting against the wall was originally attached to the end of the lower drive shaft which was belted and went up to the upper pulley for the belt-line. I buried it in overgrowth to make it look like it had been sitting there for a long time. The wood under the dynamo, what's left of it, was made from 12x12 blocks of wood and 4x10's heavily grained, colored with chalks and clear alcohol before weathering.The uprights are made from 8x8's given the same treatment. Decided to add a piece of a belt made from Tyveck, painted with Raw Sienna craft paint before weathering with black and grey chalks dry-brushed on. All the pulleys used in the diorama are from Sierra West's saw mill pulley kit heavily weathered; I like the beefy look, and the rod for the belt line is HO scale brass rod I had on hand weathered.
IMG_0028.jpg
This is the overall front view of the diorama. Next up is doing the roof, what will be left of it, then do any touchups needed to the overall diorama and maybe add a couple more small details as well. Thanks for stopping by and for all those great comments and/or suggestions.
Larry you sure hit the nail on the head for rusting detail parts great job!
Just a really good job on doing an old run down shed.
Looking forward to that roof or what left of the roof!!
Jerry
Larry,
The scene looks great, glad my suggestion helped.
Looking terrific, Larry.
Your scene is looking very convincing.
Cheers, Mark.
Larry, the cut down weeds look much better.
Everything you added looks excellent.
Awesome scenery work. I'm jealous. :o
Larry,
Well done, all the weathered wood, rusty, grimy objects and scenery.
Mike
That looks wonderful Larry.
Jerry thank you so much for the nice compliments. This concept is way out of my comfort zone but has been fun.
Ron thanks and for your suggestion; it looks better now.
Mark thank you for your kind words.
Rick thanks. I was able to spread out the weeds which really helped the appearance.
Bob thanks and I'll take that as quite the compliment since I have struggled with scenery work.
Michael and Curt thank you both so much.
Howdy Larry,
The diorama looks amazing. Your fine-tuning of the scenery at the end really sets off the scene. The way you have "rusted" the old equipment tells a story of neglect. Perfect.
Have fun,
mike
Nice work Larry!
As a thought: For a building that 'time forgot,' I'd expect a lot of rust, oil stains, and dirt on the ground. Could you get some rust colored chalk and just blow it over the gravel? The gravel looks "too clean."
dave
Mike and Phil thank you both so much.
Dave great suggestion so thanks; I'll give it a shot.
Ok, getting towards the end here:
IMG_0029.jpg
Wanted to add an old tarp over the end to look like someone at some point tried to cover the open roof area. I've used a tissue before but it's way to fragile and hard to work with. I decided to try something new. I grabbed a used dryer sheet, since it's now soft and flexible, and cut it in half. I folded it over on itself then added a thin layer of white glue and worked it through the material. I then made the fold I wanted and added more white glue then clamped the fold to hold it until the glue thoroughly dried. Cut a hole so it would go over the pulley. Spray painted it with a rattle can of red oxide primer then went over that with a coffee color while the primer was still wet. After that dried then the tarp was glued in place.
IMG_0030.jpg
This is the back of the diorama with the roof, what's left of it, in place. The metal roof is a Northeastern product and I used some scaps I had from other builds. These were spray painted with a grey primer then when dry weathered with a lot of rust.
IMG_0031.jpg
This is the front of the diorama but I need to dirty-up the gavel that Dave so kindly pointed out. As you can see there's not much left of the original roof and what is left is badly rusted. I'm going to end this here but I'll be back with some final photos; stay tuned.
So I'm going to call this build done. Here are some final photos:
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Dave had mentioned the gravel was too clean for the theme of the build and suggested adding some rust. I add that then went one step further and also added some black chalks.
Thanks to everyone who followed along and left all those great comments and/or suggestions; they are greatly appreciated. So now this build is done it'll be back to Hank's Machine Shop build.
Larry you have a wonderful job on this project!!
But I would dirty that sign a little bit because when you look at all your fine work your eye goes right to the sign instead of the work you have done.
Jerry
Beautiful work. Very nice weathering/rusting.
Jeff
Looks great, Larry.
Did you consider adding some purlins?
Cheers, Mark.
Jerry thank you. Good observation on the sign; that's an easy fix.
Jeff thanks so much.
Mark thank you. No I never thought of adding any purlins.
Howdy Larry,
Congratulations on the successful build. The model lives up to the title and looks fantastic.
Have fun,
mike
Larry,
The build looks great except for me there is something missing. I would add some bent pieces of the corrugated roofing on the ground that has falling off the roof.
That said, well done.
Mike thank you; it was a fun build.
Ron I like your idea; Amy have to tinker a bit more and thanks.
Congrats on another outstanding build.
Curt thank you; much appreciated.
A few things were mentioned to me concerning a few minor items with the build. After some consideration I thought they were worth another look so here's the final final photos of the Challenge build:
IMG_0037.jpg
The trap was in question so after taking another look I noticed it was a ways away from the structure. To remedy that I glued the right side to the building so now it looks like an old heavy tarp hanging off the building but comforting to the side more.
IMG_0036.jpg
Also the signs were an issue taking the eye to those instead of the details. Went over with brown and black chalks to tone them down substantially making them look old and forgotten. Another mention was something was lacking in the scene and was suggested some metal roofing on the ground inside the building. Grabbed a couple of scrap pieces of roofing and rusted them up with chalks and clear alcohol. When dry I bent them and glued them in place.
Thanks for the keen observations guys which only makes this diorama look even better.
Larry,
I'm glad you took the suggestions to heart, as your latest additions make a huge difference, the scene really looks complete now.
Well done.
The changes made it even better Larry.
A wonderful diorama Larry.
Jerry
Ron and Jerry thank you both. I'm always open to suggestions even though I may not always use them so thanks.
Howdy Larry,
The final structure looks fantastic. The minor changes added a lot of the effect you wanted to achieve.
Have fun,
mike
Mike thank you; always appreciate your comments.
Turned out great and a pickers dream! 8)
Philip thank you; it was a fun build.
Very convincing work, Larry. Lots of different textures and materials.
Mike
I like what you've done, Larry. Very well executed.
Mike and Karl sorry for the late reply but thank you both so much for your nice comments.
Excellent work, Larry. And you got a third place. Congratulations!
Mike
Micheal thank you and congrats to you as well; I don't mind sharing 3rd place whatsoever.
Larry,
Congratulations on the Challenge win. Very well deserved and a fine model that time forgot!
Tom
Congratulations, Larry!
Some wonderful detailing and colouring. A great thread to watch come together.
Cheers, Mark.
Tom thank you; much appreciated.
Mark thank you so much.