Last year when I arrived here the 2024 Challenge was winding down; wow I've been here almost a year already. Anyway I thought it would be fun to have a go; not that I need another project right now.
To try to satisfy some of the requirements here is something I found online awhile ago as a source of inspiration for this diorama:
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The diorama will be scratch built in O scale and probably in the neighborhood of about 8x12 inches; give or take but will be well under the 288 sq.in. limit. This will be a new challenge for me since I have never built anything that looked old and disused. While this will be a scratch build, the detail items will be purchased from the online vendors I use; 3D printing is way above my skill level.
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The first item of business was to draw up a structure plan and since O scale uses 1/4 in = 1 ft. I grabbed a fresh piece of graph paper which has a 1/4 inch grid so that worked out perfectly. One item of note, I usually plan where the outside lumber goes and any interior studs/beams I figure out as I build which for me is an easier way of doing construction. The second item of business was to place an order with Northeastern Lumber which should arrive in about 3 days from now. While I wait for the wood I'll go back and work on my other current project.
Larry thank you for joining the Winter Challenge. It will be really neat to follow along on a 'O' scale project!
Jim
Jim my pleasure and I hope you enjoy my build.
8)
Larry,
This will be an interesting build to follow, which I will be doing. 8)
Larry, I'm going to enjoy following your project as well.
Have fun with it.
Philip nice shades; glad you stopped by.
Ron thanks and I'll be watching yours as well.
Rick thanks for following along. This should be a fun and easy challenge.
Update time:
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The framing for the back wall and one end is finished. Being an old building I purposely did't worry about the cross pieces being level or straight across. I grained the wood with a plumber's brush then used raw umber 405.8 and clear alcohol to color the 6x6 beams then dry brushed grey on top; hopefully I've achieved the old worn wood look I'm going for. Also I place a sheet of waxed paper over the plans so the glue doesn't stick to the graph paper especially if I have to use the same plan multiple times like the end pieces.
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The other end wall is finished so I clamped the walls together just to see what they'd look like. My lumber order should be here the first part of next week then I can attach the siding boards. I do have one inner wall to build in the meantime, which will go halfway across the back. That one will be 6 scale inches narrower so the front comes out properly; once finished then I'll make the rafters.
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The outside of the walls I don't color so the glue sticks better to the wood and the siding plus it saves on materials since they'll be covered and not seen.
Soon I'll have to start thinking about details, go through my stash and see what I can use, and order any details I'll be needing. Trying to stay ahead so I'm not waiting for product to arrive. That's where I am so far and any comments and/or suggestions are appreciated.
Count me in Larry. This should be a good time!!
Jerry
Jerry nice having you following along on this one.
Nice start!
Jim
Thanks Jim.
Larry, you are off to a great start.
Larry,
Great start, this will be a fun one to watch.
Tom
Ron thanks, it's a start.
Tom thanks for tagging along.
Quick update:
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About 90% of the framing is finished waiting to be sided with vertical boards once my lumber order arrives. Constructed the middle wall, which is a scale 6 in. narrower, so the front comes out right. Built the three rafters and glued the end ones so the entire section can be sided in one fell swoop. The middle rafter is just sitting there and will be glued in place after the building is assembled.
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A little bit of a different angle showing the middle rafter better. As far as detailing the inside walls, other than a workbench on the left end wall, most everything will consist of old worn signs, a couple of old cabinets, and possibly a few other items. Being that the building has been left unused most anything of any value would have been removed a long time ago.
Hopefully Monday the lumber will arrive and I can keep going with the building. Most of my efforts will be the ground in the building and the surrounding area outside with details and scenery work. Also I've placed an order with SW for a tractor and some pulleys so they can be here when I'm ready for them. Thanks for stopping by and for all your great comments.
The trusses and walls look good, Larry.
It is a long way for the purlins to span. Depending on your intentions and what will be visible, you could add two more intermediate trusses. To support these you would want a stud on the inside of both outer walls and a stud either side of the interior wall. Two beams would then span the openings, sitting on top of the four studs. The two new trusses would sit on these beams. Of course, if it wont be visible, it doesn't matter.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark thank you. Once the the building is glued together then I'll run a beam across the front opening. As far as the roof goes there won't be much of one left. Thanks for the suggestions on the extra rafters.
Larry, Mark does make a good point. The extra rafters would hold up the structure a lot better.
For the lower walls and for the roof. Think about snow loads.
Rich
Rich thanks for your input and I have been giving the idea some consideration but probably not the way y'all expect.
Larry if your making it like the building you posted.
It looks to be right on.
No wonder that roof is failing it didn't have any rafters either!!
Jerry
Larry, the framing looks good.
Jerry and Rick thank you both.
Jerry I was thinking as I start detailing inside the building I might show a failed rafter on the left side busted and the end on the ground with the other end still on the wall; we'll see.
Now that I have the wood I need I'm back at it:
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The vertical siding is made from 2x10's since they take heavy graining with a plumbers brush better. They were colored the same as the beams but added a heavier amount of grey chalk dry brushed into the wood. Everyone has their way of making sure a building is square so here's mine. A square taped to the work surface and a triangle to hold the two walls tightly together. I run a thin bead of Elmers glue down the end of one wall then even it out with my finger. Once the walls are pressed together it doesn't take long for the glue to set. I usually do back-front together then front-right. After those dry then I glue the 2 halves together. Without a front wall I improvised.
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Here's the left end.
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And the right end.
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And finally the back wall. I added splits, gouges, and missing sections of the planks to give a used and rundown look. Also I left lots of gaps between some of the boards and even a few at an angle.
Next I'll detail the inside walls with a workbench and some old worn signs before gluing in the middle wall just so I can get my hands inside without breaking anything. After that then I'll glue in the center wall and figure out the size of a piece of 1/2 inch foam for the diorama. Thanks for stopping by and for all your great comments and/or suggestions.
Looking good, Larry.
You are better at random than me. Its something I really struggle with. The lopsided and broken boards look great.
Cheers, Mark.
Nice looking build so far Larry.
I like the coloring of the wood and the random attached lumber with gaps.
Rich
Mark and Rich thanks. Before I started adding the siding boards I went with the idea wherever they ended up was fine; quite the departure from my normal techniques.
Nice coloring and detail on the boards Larry.
Jerry
Quote from: Larry C on January 15, 2026, 05:54:21 PMMark and Rich thanks. Before I started adding the siding boards I went with the idea wherever they ended up was fine; quite the departure from my normal techniques.
I'd like to say that I am really enjoying your thread here, thank you for posting! Scratch-building is why I am on this forum.
I don't know anything about the original structure other than what's in the photograph. But I do know something about working with unseasoned lumber, as in lumber strait off the mill. As part of my 1:1 woodworking I operate a portable bandsaw mill (Wood-Mizer) and a small kiln, so I and am familiar with shrinkage rates as various wood species dry.
This chart shows the range of shrinkages one can expect as lumber looses the water present when the tree was alive. Depending on how the log was milled and the species, 8 to 10 % and even higher in certain species, is not uncommon. https://woodbin.com/ref/wood-shrinkage-table/
It wasn't that uncommon in the past to work with rough-sawn and unseasoned lumber, and it is still an occasional practice if one is careful to calculate in the shrinkage. For certain structures it can be used right away. An example is fence boards and also board-on-batten or board-on-board construction. One must pay attention to nailing patterns to minimize splitting. Air-drying, kiln-drying and subsequent surface edging and planing all add value to lumber, so unseasoned rough-sawn lumber is relatively cheap in comparison.
Perhaps that real-life shed was constructed with lumber right off a mill, and was put up without gaps. 8% shrinkage across a 12" board is close to an inch after air drying eventually occurs.
Again, I am thoroughly enjoying this thread, Thanks.
Mark you're welcome and thank you. 99% of what I model is all scratch built; I've only built one actual kit. I enjoy the challenge and the designing process. I'm glad you're enjoying this thread. Thank you for the detailed explanation of lumber and the difference between raw and seasoned; the table was informative.
Howdy Larry,
Nice start on the project. The frame and siding both look terrific. The coloring looks realistic.
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: friscomike on January 18, 2026, 10:26:37 AMHowdy Larry,
Nice start on the project. The frame and siding both look terrific. The coloring looks realistic.
Have fun,
mike
Mike thank you for your nice comments and yes I'm having fun.
Moving along:
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Since I'm trying to show some of my build techniques I thought I would show how I prime some of the details before I add color with chalks. This is a paint stirrer stick with a long loop of masking tape then taped down on the ends to keep the loop flat; and yes I do use a lot of masking tape modeling.The details are stuck to the tape ready for priming.
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Here they are all primed and when dry the paint will have a flat appearance. I used black because I wanted to details to look on the dark side when finished. Once throughly dry then I'll add the color with chalks and clear alcohol.
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Before I start adding any amount of details I wanted the diorama base set to go. This is a 4in. x 10in. piece of 1/2 inch green foam with the edges painted black with acrylic craft paints to make the top area pop. Since most of the scenery will be gravel and greenery I decided to paint the top a tan so the green foam doesn't show. The cabinet in the left back corner is one from a previous build cut in half then recolored with dark brown chalks then weathered with a light amount of black. It also helps make the left wall more rigid. The sign on the back wall left was printed off my computer then the surface was sanded with fine paper to look old and faded. The one on the right is one from the Wood Cutters Shack kit I never used.
The building has been glued in place and is purposely off center. I left a little room on the right for maybe a few details but mostly greenery. The left side is where most of the outside details will be going along with more greenery. The inside of the building will be mostly weeds and gravel; at least that's the scenery plan.
Next will be building a workbench for the front left wall, finish those details I primed, and build the tractor kit from SW before I add the middle wall in case it needs to be more to the right from where I think it will go. Thanks for stopping by and for all your great comments and/or suggestions.
Interesting techniques, Larry! I have a few things I need to try thanks to you. 8)
Quote from: ReadingBob on January 20, 2026, 08:26:15 PMInteresting techniques, Larry! I have a few things I need to try thanks to you. 8)
Bob thanks; glad my techniques are helpful.
Things are starting to take shape:
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The work bench is another scratch built item made from 6x6's for the frame and legs along with 4x10's for the top to give it a more of a beefy look. Everything was grained with a plumber's wire brush then the color added with Rembrandt chalks and clear alcohol. After that dried everything was given a liberal coat of A&I. The wall cabinet on the right inside wall was something I had on hand. The cabinet was colored again with the chalk and alcohol routine with the hinges and latch given a rust color.
The scenery was layered starting with white glue painted on the foam with a liberal amount of green flocking for scrub grass. Over that gravel was applied with the entire area receiving a mixture of 50/50 water to glue with a couple drops of dish liquid added for a wetting agent; everything was allowed to dry overnight.
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Started adding some details to the right area which I'll complete first before doing the left side. So far I had a drill press from a previous build, I save most everything, which I "rusted up" showing it's been sitting around for a long time. Next is a detail of a couple old tires with an old wheelbarrow sitting on top filled with rusted metal parts. Finally a support stand to help with long metal pieces being drilled. I still have to scratch build another wooden cabinet for the far right wall as well as add some more details in this area.
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This is a Fordson tractor from Sierra West to add to the left area with most of the parts all set for priming. The tractor and steering wheel will be primed grey and the wheels primed with flat black. Those parts will be weathered before assembly.
Next I'll work adding the rest of the details to the right area as well as working on the tractor. Thanks for stopping by and for all your great comments and/or suggestions.
Larry starting to come together. The rust on the tools looks great.
Jerry
Larry,
You have made some serious progress there, it is really starting to come together.
Larry, it certainly is coming together.
Couple of questions.
Why is everything so rusty if it's sitting inside and being used?
It's hard to tell from the picture, but is there room to open the doors on the cabinet?
Looking good, Larry.
You are making some good progress.
Cheers, Mark.
Jerry, Ron, and mark thank you all so much.
Rick there's about 2' between the end of the bench and the cabinet so yes the doors could be opened. The reason for the heavy rust on the drill press will become more evident when you see the condition of the roof; or the lack thereof. This is going to be an unused forgotten building when everything is all said and done.
Looks great Larry.
Howdy Larry, nice progress on your building. Loving all the details. Have fun, mike
Excellent modeling Larry.
Those 3D printed parts look fantastic.
Rich
OK Larry, that makes sense now.
Curt, Mike, and Rich thank you for your kind comments.
Rick thanks for your prior observation; this is a whole new type of modeling for me.
Nice work, Larry. Can't wait to see what you do with the tractor. Doesn't the A&I wash remove some of the previously applied alcohol/chalk color?
Jeff
Jeff thank you. To answer your question, not really. It does help bring out the grain in wood and makes it look more natural. On resin or 3D printed I use a smaller amount but only if I want to highlight any grain.
Hope that helps.
Larry,
Great job on the tool shed. I like the wood color and gaps in the boards. I'm glad Jim included "O" and others this time.
I'm also enjoying the thread.
Tom
Tom thank you; much appreciated. Jim seemed to be interested in seeing a scratch build in O scale. Glad you're enjoying the thread.