My next adventure will be in the building and lighting of Rail Scale Miniatures - Horwood Brothers, Kit #005.
This kit came out at the NNGC in Colorado in 2009. Dario Le Donne offered this kit at $295.00.
I wanted to get the kit but never acted on it and when I did, it was no longer available. I've seen it as high as $650.00 on Ebay. Like brass models, craftsman kit prices fluctuate from year to year.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150226173315-570912093.jpeg)
First a little history on the kit and how I came to get this one.
During one of our Saturday Butty Group (SBG) meets, Terry, Vietnam Seabee, mentioned he was building the RSM Horwood Brothers kit. I commented that I always wanted to get one but was lazy and missed it. He said he saw one for sale at Des Plaines Hobbies in Des Plaines, IL. Our meeting was on January 13, 2024.
When all the SBGs left for the day, I called Des Plaines Hobbies and they still had it in stock. And, it was for the original price of $295.00. I said ring it up. I got the kit in the mail 10 days later.
Thank you Terry for telling me about the kit as Des Plaines.
Before I get started, I want to say this will be a build over a long period of time. I'm looking at this kit as a part time one as I have many irons in the fire. Those irons are projects that need to get finished.
The biggest iron in the fire is a project to paint and sound 8 brass steam locos. I've been putting them off for 3 years. These are the last ones I have to get finished and then I can get back to models and the layout full time.
That said, here are the kit contents starting with the box cover.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150226173315-57092568.jpeg)
A 58 page instruction booklet including dozens of photos.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150226173315-570931412.jpeg)
16 templates and informational cards -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150226173315-570941085.jpeg)
Sign and floor sheets.-
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150226173315-570951595.jpeg)
Three roof cards -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150226173358-5709643.jpeg)
Lots and lots of parts -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150226173358-570981622.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150226173358-571002285.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150226173358-570972098.jpeg)
Looking forward to your build Tom, this is a great kit, wish I had one. Mark
A box of strip wood/sticks -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150226173427-57101162.jpeg)
A box of 50+ white metal castings -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150226173358-570991945.jpeg)
I purchased the lighting kit for Horwood Bros. from Ngineering for $89.00.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150226173427-571021404.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-150226173427-57103570.jpeg)
Quote from: craftsmankits on February 15, 2026, 06:02:08 PMLooking forward to your build Tom, this is a great kit, wish I had one. Mark
Mark,
I wish you did as well. One just sold at BrassTrains.com for $275.00.
Keep looking, one will turn up. The price is down on this one.
Tom
Looking forward to watching this one come together, Tom.
It should look right at home on your layout. Do you know if Dario is planning on releasing more kits? Either larger or diamond series?
Cheers, Mark.
Oh boy Tom, you're finally getting started on this. I look forward to seeing your build. Will it be done by this Saturday? ;D
Tom you're going to have fun with this one. I'll be keeping an eye on this one.
Ton that should keep you out of trouble for a few days.
Looking forward to the build.
Jerry
Quite a project, Tom. I've seen a finished one and it's huge. Looking forward to your build.
Jeff
I'm looking forward to following along as my build of Horwood Bros has been on the orphan shelf for quite awhile.
Terry
Following with interest, it looks like a very exciting build!
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on February 15, 2026, 06:17:48 PMLooking forward to watching this one come together, Tom.
It should look right at home on your layout. Do you know if Dario is planning on releasing more kits? Either larger or diamond series?
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
Happy to have you along on the journey. I last spoke to Dario when I purchased the Drake Street Shop kit. He said he was working on ideas for another kit but didn't say what.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 15, 2026, 06:31:05 PMOh boy Tom, you're finally getting started on this. I look forward to seeing your build. Will it be done by this Saturday? ;D
Butty Curt,
Yes, finally and it will be a long build as well. Not sure it will be done by Saturday. Oh, you said this Saturday. No but it will be done by one Saturday n the4 future. 8)
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on February 16, 2026, 10:06:36 AMTom you're going to have fun with this one. I'll be keeping an eye on this one.
Larry,
Thanks for jumping on the wagon. It will be a fun build but not a quick one.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on February 16, 2026, 10:11:42 AMTon that should keep you out of trouble for a few days.
Looking forward to the build.
Jerry
Jerry,
At least a few day for sure. I'm guessing many many months. Happy to have you following along.
Tom
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on February 16, 2026, 10:59:18 AMQuite a project, Tom. I've seen a finished one and it's huge. Looking forward to your build.
Jeff
Jeff,
Yes, it will be a project. I think you and I saw this one in the contest room at one of the EXPOS, don't remember which one.
This will take up 15 to 24 inches of real estate.
Glad to have here.
Tom
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on February 16, 2026, 11:36:30 AMI'm looking forward to following along as my build of Horwood Bros has been on the orphan shelf for quite awhile.
Terry
Terry,
Thanks for getting on the front row. I've had this one for two years and wanted build it. Not sure about your build but, I've already found some issues.
I'll go over them as the build progresses.
Tom
Quote from: Yannis on February 16, 2026, 11:48:36 AMFollowing with interest, it looks like a very exciting build!
Yannis,
Happy to have you following with interest. I'm excited to get this one started.
Tom
I started to read the instruction manual two months ago. I've read through it a few times and getting familiar with the parts.
This kit, when placed on the diorama measures 15 X 24". I'll use the same dimensions but the kit will sit directly on the layout. I'll construct a concrete pad later in the build.
Here is where I plan to plant Harwood Bros. It is on the Summit Level (3rd.) of the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160226172636-571131741.jpeg)
The base for the main structure (the service station) is a 3/32" thick wood floor. The floor in this kit was severely warped.
Here is how I fixed the warp.
I soaked the wood floor in a pan of water to loosen the wood fibers. I then placed a sheet of wax paper on the granite counter top in our laundry room. The floor piece was placed on the paper and another sheet of wax paper was then placed on the top. A pane of glass was then placed on top of the wax paper. I used metal weights to hold the wood floor flat until dry.
There are no photos of this step as back in December '25 I wasn't sure I was going to build the kit. Anyway, that did the trick and after four days the wood floor was flat.
Yesterday, I noticed a slight bend in the floor. I set it on two metal weights and placed a metal weight on top as shown below. This morning the floor was once again flat. Sorry for the above screed but, I wanted to share what I needed to do.
When the walls are glued to the floor, it will remain flat.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160226172636-57112366.jpeg)
Done for today.
Will you be able to brace that floor in case it decides to warp again? You might need to route out grooves in the plywood base for bracing underneath, if you can't put bracing inside.
My experience with stuff like this is it will eventually warp again if not braced.
dave
Quote from: deemery on February 16, 2026, 06:07:33 PMWill you be able to brace that floor in case it decides to warp again? You might need to route out grooves in the plywood base for bracing underneath, if you can't put bracing inside.
My experience with stuff like this is it will eventually warp again if not braced.
dave
Me too. Could you reinforce the floor-wall joints with 3/16" or 1/4" K&S brass angle? Pre-blacken, then epoxy in place everywhere there isn't an exterior door you want to model open?
Howdy Tom,
That is one heck of a score. Congratulations. I loved that kit when it came out, but spent my money on Banta's Pro Patria mill.
I am excited to follow your build. It promises to be fun.
Have fun,
mike
So forgive my ignorance on wooden kits, but do you intend to use the wooden base as a base for the structure only or as a diorama base that will slot in the layout?
Is it viable to replace the floor with styrene or something 3d-printed? Or at least add bracing below the base?
Quote from: deemery on February 16, 2026, 06:07:33 PMWill you be able to brace that floor in case it decides to warp again? You might need to route out grooves in the plywood base for bracing underneath, if you can't put bracing inside.
My experience with stuff like this is it will eventually warp again if not braced.
dave
Dave,
Excellent observation but my answer is no. I could brace the floor and cut groves in the plywood but it isn't necessary.
I've had the floor base on the layout for three weeks now with no warpage.
I guess any large wood base such as this will warp given the humidity of Central Florida. I do plan on bracing the base by gluing the five walls to it with the walls braced.
Tom
Quote from: jbvb on February 16, 2026, 06:39:08 PMQuote from: deemery on February 16, 2026, 06:07:33 PMWill you be able to brace that floor in case it decides to warp again? You might need to route out grooves in the plywood base for bracing underneath, if you can't put bracing inside.
My experience with stuff like this is it will eventually warp again if not braced.
dave
Me too. Could you reinforce the floor-wall joints with 3/16" or 1/4" K&S brass angle? Pre-blacken, then epoxy in place everywhere there isn't an exterior door you want to model open?
James,
Yes, I could but it won't be necessary. As I progress through the build, it will become more clear as to why it won't be necessary.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on February 16, 2026, 09:08:08 PMHowdy Tom,
That is one heck of a score. Congratulations. I loved that kit when it came out, but spent my money on Banta's Pro Patria mill.
I am excited to follow your build. It promises to be fun.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
Yes, I was very happy to get this one at the regular price not to mention how very fortunate I was as well. The Banta Mill is a nice kit for sure.
I'm happy to have you following along on this one.
Tom
Quote from: Yannis on February 18, 2026, 12:21:01 PMSo forgive my ignorance on wooden kits, but do you intend to use the wooden base as a base for the structure only or as a diorama base that will slot in the layout?
Is it viable to replace the floor with styrene or something 3d-printed? Or at least add bracing below the base?
Yannis,
No problem and no question is an ignorant one. Yes, I will use the kit base as I'm satisfied it will work. The entire kit is supposed to sit on a diorama but I'll build the kit and place is on the layout as a removable diorama.
Sheet styrene won't work as a base. Bracing on the bottom of the wood base in this situation isn't an option.
Tom
There is a checker board flooring paper that is to be glued to the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180226144818-571141980.jpeg)
Once the flooring is glued to the base, Dario suggests taking an Xacto knife and trimming the excess flooring from the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180226144818-57117674.jpeg)
Then the walls are to be glued in place on the base. As I mentioned, I've read through the instructions and planned in my mind how I want to proceed with the build.
This particular step will be skipped by me until later in the build. I'll explain my reasoning as I get into the build.
There is a diagram of how the walls fit together around the outside edges of the floor base.
In the diagram shown below, note that wall "C" fits between walls "B" & "D".
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180226144818-571182295.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180226144818-571191667.jpeg)
If you glue wall "C" in place, wall "D" won't fit correctly on the front of the base.
Wall "C" is 1/16" too long. I know this as I test fitted the walls around the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180226144845-57122831.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180226144845-571232480.jpeg)
The next photo shows how long wall "C" is. It is as long as the wall is thick.
You may think that you can leave wall "C" as is and added wall "D" to the front. If you do this, you have a serious issue with lining up the other wall "E".
I incorrectly highlighted in red the bracing. However, the wall is still shown as fitting between the two walls mentioned above.
I used a wall section and marked in red the area I need to remove from wall "C".
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180226144818-57120985.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180226144845-571211278.jpeg)
Now the wall "C" is the correct length. I made another test fit and now all the walls fit correctly around the base.
Nice job Tom. This looks to be a fairly complicated build.
Kudos, Tom.. I didn't read and plan ahead as you did. I glued wall C as provided assuming the instructions were correct. I don't recall how I overcame the issue 'after the fact' but I believe it to be corrected. Has been awhile since I worked on Horwood
terry
Tom glad you pre fit everything before going ahead.
Jerry
Tom nice save on the walls and better to dry fit than regretting it later.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 18, 2026, 03:29:51 PMNice job Tom. This looks to be a fairly complicated build.
Thanks Butty Curt.
Don't think its as hard as it looks. Some issues, yes, but we'll see.
Tom
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on February 18, 2026, 04:07:16 PMKudos, Tom.. I didn't read and plan ahead as you did. I glued wall C as provided assuming the instructions were correct. I don't recall how I overcame the issue 'after the fact' but I believe it to be corrected. Has been awhile since I worked on Horwood
terry
Butty Terry,
Thank you also. I have a few questions for you this morning when the SBGs get here.
I did deviate from the plans a little.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on February 18, 2026, 04:13:06 PMTom glad you pre fit everything before going ahead.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks, I've learned through the years that just because it is supposed to fit, doesn't mean it will fit. ;D
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on February 19, 2026, 08:02:37 AMTom nice save on the walls and better to dry fit than regretting it later.
Larry,
Thank you and yes, I agree. Once glued it is much harder to make the adjustment if necessary.
Tom
I missed the start of this thread while I was taking a break from posting here.
It's great you got the kit at the original price.
Looks like you're off to a good start and already fixing issues.
I remember Greg built this on the RR-Line.
Quote from: Rick on February 21, 2026, 08:52:13 AMI missed the start of this thread while I was taking a break from posting here.
It's great you got the kit at the original price.
Looks like you're off to a good start and already fixing issues.
I remember Greg built this on the RR-Line.
Rick,
Glad to have you checking in on this one. Greg and I have been in contact with each other and I've asked him some questions. He also gave me a heads up on an issue he had with the circuit board. We'll cover that when I get to it.
I'm very sorry I missed the RR Line build thread.
Tom
Tom,
Don't know how I missed this one, but glad I'm now caught up with your progress.
If I remember correctly, Greg's build on the RR-line forum was quite detailed and I almost bought the kit even though I model in O scale. This is going to be one fun build to follow.
Quote from: elwoodblues on February 21, 2026, 01:05:49 PMTom,
Don't know how I missed this one, but glad I'm now caught up with your progress.
If I remember correctly, Greg's build on the RR-line forum was quite detailed and I almost bought the kit even though I model in O scale. This is going to be one fun build to follow.
Ron,
Well, you are here now. Thanks for following along. Its too bad the contents couldn't be saved but I guess Joe just wanted out of it, period.
Tom
Prior to gluing any walls together, I made test fits of all the windows that go with the main service station.
The large front wall, nothing fit. Referring to the photo below, all three window openings needed a little sanding for the plastic windows to fit. Mainly the sanding was on the bottom of the three openings. I could force them in but plastic window side frames buckled. The door opening was the opposite as it was to large.
I needed to shim the sides and top for the door to fit properly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210226143142-57134178.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210226143159-571371937.jpeg)
All the other windows and doors fit.
I used weights to hold the wall pieces in place to complete the test fitting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210226143101-571271579.jpeg)
This gap will disappear when the wall edges are sanded at a 45 degree angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210226143101-571281917.jpeg)
You can see in the next photo how the wall sections fit after sanding.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210226143101-57129247.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210226143101-5713055.jpeg)
Back in a few, Diet Pepsi time.
I decided to glue the walls together as one sub assembly. I didn't want to glue the walls to the base one at a time.
Not yet making the decision to add stucco or just paint the walls, I wanted the option to add stucco and not chance getting stucco splattered on the checkerboard floor.
The lines at the top and bottom of the walls are for the bracing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210226143101-5713150.jpeg)
I started by gluing the rear and right side walls together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210226143141-57132110.jpeg)
After each of the wall sections were glued together, I made a test fit to make sure they all fit properly and tight to the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210226143141-571331368.jpeg)
As I added each wall to each other, I made sure the corners were square and at a 90 degree angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210226143142-57136107.jpeg)
All five walls are glued together and separate from the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210226143231-57138554.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210226143231-57139957.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210226143232-571401817.jpeg)
The wall sections that meet at 45 degrees are both nice and tight.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210226143232-57141216.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210226143142-57135664.jpeg)
Done for today.
Although I just saw this in person it is outstanding.
Tom,
That is a lot of progress in a short time and all with your usual level to detail.
Super clean and accurate work there!!!! Well done Tom.
Tom great job and your modeling skills are exceptional!!
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 21, 2026, 03:39:13 PMAlthough I just saw this in person it is outstanding.
Curt,
Thanks very much.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on February 21, 2026, 11:12:07 PMTom,
That is a lot of progress in a short time and all with your usual level to detail.
Ron,
I appreciate the compliment, thank you.
Tom
Quote from: Yannis on February 22, 2026, 06:13:01 AMSuper clean and accurate work there!!!! Well done Tom.
Yannis,
Thank you for the kind comment.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on February 22, 2026, 07:55:53 AMTom great job and your modeling skills are exceptional!!
Larry,
Your very generous and kind compliment are appreciated. Although, I do make mistakes here and there.
More on this in today's later update.
Tom
Tom I didn't think you would be this far ahead.
As usual your precise work before moving on to the next step.
Do all your weight bars have you name n them??? ;D
Jerry
Quote from: Jerry on February 22, 2026, 02:43:08 PMTom I didn't think you would be this far ahead.
As usual your precise work before moving on to the next step.
Do all your weight bars have you name n them??? ;D
Jerry
Jerry,
It seems I moved along very quickly on this portion. Maybe a little to quick. LOL!
The weight bar belonged to my Grandfather, it reads T A Langford. Its a bar from an old printing press when the bank had his name on the letterhead. He was VP of the Orlando First National Bank in the early 1920's. He used it as a paper weight for about 30 years. He gave it to me when I was in high school. I liked it for the T A Langford. I was named after my Grandfather (Thomas) and my father's brother (Edward).
It is a fantastic weight to hold stuff down while I'm building.
Tom
Okay, I'll be honest and tell you that I'm human and not the super duper modeler who doesn't make mistakes.
Both my mistakes would never be noticed. I want to share that even a modeling mistake can most likely be fixed.
I was adding the upper detail trim to the service station. I got so engrossed in the trim that I forgot that a portion across the front was to be left off. This was to allow the canopy roof to be added.
The below photo shows when I had to remove a glued wood portion to the front. I was very careful but still cut into the upper portion of the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220226163514-571491565.jpeg)
Thankfully, this won't show as it is covered by the canopy wall as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220226163514-571501169.jpeg)
This mistake was easily fixed. :-[
This next mistake was not as easily fixed. Refer to the photo below.
Looks normal as the window opening does goes on the left.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220226162947-57142846.jpeg)
However, I glued the wall to the other two walls. This wall and window opening is upside down. The window is to sit lower in the opening.
Back in a few, I definitely need a Diet Pepsi to explain this one. 8)
I never considered trying to remove the wall and then re-glue it to the other two walls. I could see disaster all over that attempt.
So, I measured, thrice, where the window is to set in the wall and how low. I then marked this on the lower inside of the wall as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220226162947-57143829.jpeg)
I took the cut out wall piece and glued it to the top of the opening.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220226170037-571522073.jpeg)
The window now is in the correct location on the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220226162951-571451655.jpeg)
The trim board covers the new glued in wall piece.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220226162951-57146525.jpeg)
Here is how the trim looks on the upper portion of the building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220226170829-57153170.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220226170829-571541148.jpeg)
Trim will be added to the canopy sides that will match the other trim.
It's good to know you are still human at the workbench. ;D
A side note on sanding the trim pieces at 45 degrees. I was using a sanding stick and eye-balling the angle. Test fit, sand, test fit, sand and so on.
After the first couple of angles. I pulled out my little Micro Mark sander.
I set the table at 45 degrees and used this to sand the rest of the trim pieces. It was much easier than the eye-balling.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220226163015-57147465.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220226163016-57148824.jpeg)
Done for today.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 22, 2026, 05:11:16 PMIt's good to know you are still human at the workbench. ;D
Curt,
Yes sir, being human and prone to mistakes is a good thing.
Like I said, it I didn't share this, one would never know.
Tom
Howdy Tom,
Nice work on the corners. The last photo shares your secret. Horwood Bro is progressing well. Persist!
and Have fun,
mike
Tom, quick progress for sure.
Glad you were able to fix those two errors.
That's a handy sander you have.
I'll be looking on this one Tom, looking forward to seeing it on the layout. :)
Quote from: friscomike on February 22, 2026, 05:49:06 PMHowdy Tom,
Nice work on the corners. The last photo shares your secret. Horwood Bro is progressing well. Persist!
and Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thank you. Yes, the motorized sanding disc does come in handy for uses such as that one. Usually thought, I use the sanding stick for less repetitive jobs.
Still having fun.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on February 22, 2026, 06:41:10 PMTom, quick progress for sure.
Glad you were able to fix those two errors.
That's a handy sander you have.
Rick,
Yes, faster than I planned. The cold weather has kept me from starting the brass loco painting.
Hopefully, I won't be making any more mistakes. Or, at least one I can't fix. The sander has been used for a few projects. I forgot I had it until all the fascia trim on this kit needed to be angled. Then I remembered. 8)
Tom
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 23, 2026, 03:39:46 PMI'll be looking on this one Tom, looking forward to seeing it on the layout. :)
Greg Butty,
Thanks for following along my friend. I think it will be a fantastic looking addition to the Summit Level.
Tom
After finishing the fascia and front wall trim, I started the canopy build. Dario mentions in the directions to glue the four short walls together.
Referring to the drawing, Figure 9 below, you can see the square box on the left.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230226152550-571552254.jpeg)
The instructions say to build the box first. Once built, mark on the inside of the box lines where the 12X12s (1/8") and the 6X6s (1/16") braces are to be glued.
This made no sense to me. I made it easy on myself and marked the lines on the four box pieces, glued the bracing on and then glued the box together.
The next photo shows the box, looking down on the top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230226152551-5715635.jpeg)
This next photo shows the bottom side of the box.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230226152551-571571733.jpeg)
There is a scribed piece of wood that serves as the canopy soffit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230226152551-571581071.jpeg)
This piece fits in the bottom of the box and against the 6X6s.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230226152551-571591562.jpeg)
I used a quick grip to hold the canopy in place and then glued all the fascia trim in place. The trim needs to match the main structure trim.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230226152631-57161291.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230226152631-57162913.jpeg)
A small angled awning fits on the front of the canopy. This will be installed much later in the build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230226152631-571641141.jpeg)
And, of course, I want it to be level when the canopy is added.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230226152631-57163282.jpeg)
I decided to test fit the sidewalks against the main service station.
I realized that some wood can vary from kit to kit as well as changes due to humidity. However, I found the three sidewalk sections were a bit off. Not sure humidity can change them this much.
Since these are laser cut, I know some of the gaps can be attributed to the laser cutting at an angle. This angle is referred to as a kerf. When two laser cut pieces are put side by side, there is a gap.
In the photo below you can see the corner piece is thicker than the front piece of the sidewalk.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230226152631-571602088.jpeg)
The piece shown below will need to be trimmed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230226152704-571661125.jpeg)
The long sidewalk section will also need to be trimmed to fit. All easy fixes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230226152704-57167378.jpeg)
I'll be taking a short break from the build (structures) and working on the location where it will be placed on the layout.
I will show this in this thread.
Done for today.
Everything lined up perfectly!
Just really like following your threads on how to do these kits.
Jerry
Tom, definitely made sense to do the bracing before glueing the walls together.
Another good fix on the sidewalk.
Very exacting modeling Tom.
Looking good, Tom.
I sometimes add bracing after gluing the walls together - because I forgot...
Cheers, Mark.
I've been following along on this one. I like the location you selected for it and think it'll look great there.
Very close and careful work, Tom.
Tom, the phrase I was trying to think of yesterday was meticulous modeling ::) Sometimes my brain doesn't work as well as it should.
Interesting to follow along with this, Tom. Throughout my working years I got quite enough "fix someone's software design or implementation mistakes" at work. At home I preferred scratchbuilding to kits known to be a struggle.
Tom your work is very precise as always and great idea using the clamp so the trim could be installed correctly.
Quote from: Jerry on February 23, 2026, 05:01:21 PMEverything lined up perfectly!
Just really like following your threads on how to do these kits.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you for the comment and for following along on all my journeys.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on February 23, 2026, 05:57:52 PMTom, definitely made sense to do the bracing before glueing the walls together.
Another good fix on the sidewalk.
Rick,
Yes, it did. I wasn't about to try to glue several pieces of wood inside the box and get it level.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 23, 2026, 06:01:07 PMVery exacting modeling Tom.
Curt,
Thank you, yes, it has been so far.
Tom
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on February 23, 2026, 06:09:09 PMLooking good, Tom.
I sometimes add bracing after gluing the walls together - because I forgot...
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
I've never tried that one. If one can do it then all the better. ;D I think gluing bracing on vertical walls is much easier that horizontal one in a small box.
Tom
Quote from: ReadingBob on February 23, 2026, 06:50:27 PMI've been following along on this one. I like the location you selected for it and think it'll look great there.
Butty Bob,
I appreciate you sitting in on this one. I think this location is perfect for this kit.
Tom
Quote from: Michael Hohn on February 23, 2026, 07:49:50 PMVery close and careful work, Tom.
Mike,
Yes, it is and I'm very patient in my builds. Try to look ahead for any issues that may arise.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 24, 2026, 06:55:42 AMTom, the phrase I was trying to think of yesterday was meticulous modeling ::) Sometimes my brain doesn't work as well as it should.
Curt,
Okay, I agree, it is very necessary for this kit. At least your brain works, I'm not always sure of mine. 8)
Tom
Quote from: jbvb on February 24, 2026, 07:41:01 AMInteresting to follow along with this, Tom. Throughout my working years I got quite enough "fix someone's software design or implementation mistakes" at work. At home I preferred scratchbuilding to kits known to be a struggle.
James,
I've had to fix a few issues in kits I've built in the past. I also enjoy scratch building; however, I also enjoy a difficult kit and look at is as a challenge. Finishing a difficult kit is very satisfying.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on February 26, 2026, 05:13:22 PMTom your work is very precise as always and great idea using the clamp so the trim could be installed correctly.
Larry,
Thank you for the compliment, much appreciated. I'll do what I can to make it easier to "get it right".
Tom
As I mentioned earlier, this kit complex will be build on the layout vs. on a diorama base.
It will be located on the third level at the "south end of town".
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270226150236-571882421.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270226150236-571901515.jpeg)
I cut and glued two 1/4" pieces of Owens Corning, Pink Panther, foam on the plywood. I cut these to fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270226150236-57191449.jpeg)
When dry, I cut two pieces of 2 ply thick cardboard to fit on top of the pink foam.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270226150236-57193383.jpeg)
When both were cut to fit, I used Elmer's White Glue to secure the cardboard to the foam.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270226150236-571921265.jpeg)
Since the cardboard is a paper product and the white glue is a water based, I used what ever I could find to hold the cardboard to down so it wouldn't warp while drying.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270226150304-571962482.jpeg)
After 24 hours the "weights" were removed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270226150304-571942460.jpeg)
Done for today.
Looks good Tom. Are you going to cover the cardboard in white glue?
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 27, 2026, 04:48:55 PMLooks good Tom. Are you going to cover the cardboard in white glue?
Same comment and question.
Tom never seen anyone use cardboard in that fashion before; interesting concept.
8)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 27, 2026, 04:48:55 PMLooks good Tom. Are you going to cover the cardboard in white glue?
Curt,
Yes, I will!
Tom
Quote from: Rick on February 27, 2026, 06:17:02 PMQuote from: PRR Modeler on February 27, 2026, 04:48:55 PMLooks good Tom. Are you going to cover the cardboard in white glue?
Same comment and question.
Rick,
Same comment and answer. ;D
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on February 28, 2026, 07:40:58 AMTom never seen anyone use cardboard in that fashion before; interesting concept.
Larry,
I've used it exclusively for paved roads. I'll cover more of it as the thread progresses.
Tom
Curt and Rick asked it I was going cover the 2 ply cardboard with white glue. In all cases where I've used the cardboard as a roadway, I covered it with white glue.
I paint white glue on the cardboard to seal it from future applications of scenery. Once the white glue is painted on the cardboard I never use a water based paint for a concrete color or asphalt. The water base paint will soften the white glue as the paint is being applied and thus creating a major mess. Once this happens, it can't be fixed or undone.
I use either Floquil Primer or Floquil CN Gray for the concrete highway. I've also used Floquil Aged Concrete in the past on some sections of the roadway.
The photo below shows the seam where I joined the two sheets of 2 ply cardboard.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-270226150304-57195620.jpeg)
I will use this as a starting point to draw in the roadway for both north and south directions.
Back in a few.
The next two photos show how the buildings are to be placed on the diorama. In my case, the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280226114354-57197672.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280226114354-57198557.jpeg)
Dario drew his concrete slabs on 2 3/4" squares. This equates to 20ft. squares in HO scale.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280226114354-571991970.jpeg)
The next photo shows approximately where the service station will be set.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280226114354-57200993.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280226114354-57201836.jpeg)
Over all view of the entire kit and approx. where the sidewalks will be placed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280226114411-572022228.jpeg)
Done for today.
Epic scene in the making Tom! The built up structure looks really tidy. Thanks for sharing!
Yannis
Tom,
Your approach to laying concrete is new to me. I'm watching with interest.
With the disappearance of Floquil I'm wondering what a replacement might be.
Mike
Quote from: Yannis on February 28, 2026, 12:51:23 PMEpic scene in the making Tom! The built up structure looks really tidy. Thanks for sharing!
Yannis
Yannis,
Thank you for the compliment and for following along.
Tom
Quote from: Michael Hohn on March 01, 2026, 09:15:49 AMTom,
Your approach to laying concrete is new to me. I'm watching with interest.
With the disappearance of Floquil I'm wondering what a replacement might be.
Mike
Mike,
I've been using the 2 ply cardboard for my roads at least 20+ years now. If you double stack a layer, it is the perfect height for the sidewalk and curb next to the road. I haven't done that on this layout but did on my last one.
The next three photos of my roads are all done with the 2 ply cardboard.
I have enough Floquil to not have to worry about a substitute. Excellent question though.
Tom
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020326133004-572031012.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020326133004-57205527.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020326133004-572061621.jpeg)
Tom that's going to take up a sizable bit of real-estate; good thing you have lots of room.
Quote from: Larry C on March 02, 2026, 03:46:05 PMTom that's going to take up a sizable bit of real-estate; good thing you have lots of room.
Larry,
Yes, it is a good size structure with three main ones in all.
I do have lots of room.
Tom
Afternoon all,
I have lots of photos but haven't had the time to list, crop and load them for this thread.
I'll have my leg up to reduce swelling until Saturday morning. Hopefully by Sunday I'll get back to the build.
Have a great week everyone.
Tom
Tom, hope you and your leg are doing well.
Tom good luck with the leg. Will all be waiting for your return.
Jerry
Looking at the ground plan you posted earlier and thinking I'd probably quarter each 2 3/4" square for a northern climate. But not an issue in the Piney Woods.
Quote from: Rick on March 02, 2026, 05:43:51 PMTom, hope you and your leg are doing well.
Rick,
Thanks, the leg surgery is at noon today. Otherwise, my leg and I are doing fine. I've had these skin cancers removed in the past and the only thing that is a bother is staying off the leg for four full days.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on March 02, 2026, 06:39:39 PMTom good luck with the leg. Will all be waiting for your return.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks very much. I'm going to post a little this morning.
Tom
Quote from: jbvb on March 02, 2026, 08:12:25 PMLooking at the ground plan you posted earlier and thinking I'd probably quarter each 2 3/4" square for a northern climate. But not an issue in the Piney Woods.
James,
Agreed, the 2 3/4" in HO scale is approx. 20 ft. Once all is finished, it won't be that noticeable.
Tom
I decided to build the other two buildings and then add the stucco to them. Do it once and be done.
The Service Station right side wall had two options for the modeler. For it to be at the same height as the middle portion, 1/4" could be removed from the top of the wall.
I opted to have the two walls together (back to back) as a common wall. So, for me, I didn't remove the 1/4" from that wall.
The next photo shows the wall that could been lowered by 1/4". It is the portion from the right rear up to the left where the fascia trim starts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030326075956-57224580.jpeg)
Now, I followed the instructions and began bracing the walls for the second structure. In the diagram, Dario shows the bracing on the wall that will fit up against the first building - the service station.
I braced it as per the diagram. When I test fit the two walls, the bracing didn't match.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030326073735-572071730.jpeg)
It dawned on me that in the Dario diagram, the bracing was shown with the 1/4" cut off the top of the wall.
I carefully removed the bracing and added the bracing that fit my option of not cutting down the two walls.
Before -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030326073735-572071730.jpeg)
After bracing fix -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030326073735-572081666.jpeg)
The next photo shows how this wall fits next to the wall on the service station.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030326075956-572252065.jpeg)
Back in a few.
Yeah, I've had to trim mis-placed bracing a few times, including on the farmhouse. You're making good progress. Good luck at the Dr this afternoon!
dave
When bracing the service bay building (middle structure), the bracing crosses four doors.
The bracing doesn't affect the doors fitting in the the openings but, I still wanted to remove the bracing from the door openings.
I cut a brace to fit, placed it on the rear and then marked where the bracing crossed the opening.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030326073848-572202376.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030326073848-572211312.jpeg)
Quote from: deemery on March 03, 2026, 08:26:36 AMYeah, I've had to trim mis-placed bracing a few times, including on the farmhouse. You're making good progress. Good luck at the Dr this afternoon!
dave
Dave,
Yea, "snit happens" and I appreciate the well wishes. All will be fine and I'll have my laptop in bed this afternoon.
Tom
I removed the brace and used a single edge razor blade to cut down vertically to the horizontal mark.
I then used a #17 Xacto blade and removed the horizontal portion of the marked area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030326073848-572222321.jpeg)
The brace is now ready to be glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030326073848-57223439.jpeg)
The brace was then glued in place per the diagram template.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030326084301-5722625.jpeg)
Done for this week, see ya'll on Saturday or Sunday.
I don't believe I've ever built a kit where I didn't have to remove some of the bracing, usually due to my error. You're making great progress. Good luck with the surgery/recovery.
Jeff
Tom,
Some more great progress on the build. Like Jeff I've had to remove/modify bracing I've installed, also mostly due to my error.
Tom good luck with the surgery today.
Anyone else would have left that alone but you being the precise builder that you are fixed it. Nice job.
Jerry
Wishes for a quick recovery Tom.
Tom, hope you are recuperating well.
Excellent progress and problem solving once again.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on March 03, 2026, 08:59:01 AMI don't believe I've ever built a kit where I didn't have to remove some of the bracing, usually due to my error. You're making great progress. Good luck with the surgery/recovery.
Jeff
Jeff,
Yea, I've made the same mistake in the past but, this time it was an error in the booklet.
The surgery and recovery is complete with the exception of the suture removal. The hardest part of the surgery was me having to stay in bed with my right ley elevated. I'm an old pro at this now. 8) Thank you for the well wishes.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on March 03, 2026, 09:25:17 AMTom,
Some more great progress on the build. Like Jeff I've had to remove/modify bracing I've installed, also mostly due to my error.
Ron,
Thank you my friend. I think we've all had to remove bracing at one time or another.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on March 03, 2026, 09:46:30 AMTom good luck with the surgery today.
Anyone else would have left that alone but you being the precise builder that you are fixed it. Nice job.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks very much. Stuff like that gets to me and I feel the need to fix the fix! ;D
Tom
Quote from: Yannis on March 06, 2026, 01:58:51 AMWishes for a quick recovery Tom.
Yannis,
Thank you, it went very smoothly.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on March 06, 2026, 07:41:30 AMTom, hope you are recuperating well.
Excellent progress and problem solving once again.
Rick,
Thank you for the kind comment. The recovery is now complete and the sutures will be removed next week.
I'm very happy to be back in the train shed and modeling mode.
Tom
The next photo shows the service bay with all 7 walls glued in place. The photo was taken from the instruction manual.
There are two interior walls that make up the service bay side walls. In reading ahead, I did notice an error in the instructions. Dario also suggests an order in gluing the walls together. I'll not follow his order and I'll get into that in the next few posts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030326073735-572091165.jpeg).
The interior walls of the service bay are painted in two tone colors. This needs to be done prior to gluing the walls together.
Dario makes a suggestion as to how wide the darker bottom color is in the service bay. I just measured my own and drew a pencil line on the walls.
The next photo shows the rear and interior left wall of the service bay.
The interior wall is on the bottom.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030326073735-572101665.jpeg)
The next photo shows my lines do line up to each other.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030326073736-57211142.jpeg)
The next photo shows where the left interior wall section is to be glued to the front and read walls of the service bay. In viewing the vertical pencil line in this photo, this is where the interior wall is to be glued.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030326073812-572121488.jpeg)
Here is how I determined where the interior left wall is to be located and glued.
I laid the rear wall flat up against a metal square. I then placed the front wall on top of the rear wall. I made sure they were tight against the metal square. I then placed a smaller metal square next to the left bay opening. I held the square weight down and carefully removed the front wall section.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030326073812-572131830.jpeg)
I then made a pencil line up against the smaller square.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030326073812-57214262.jpeg)
The vertical line is the correct location for the right edge of the interior wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030326073813-572151731.jpeg)
I then marked another line 1/16" to the left of the first vertical line. This is the location of the brace for the interior wall section. I made sure the brace was square and parallel to the vertical lines.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030326073813-572161639.jpeg)
This next set of photos show how the wall fit together. None of them are glued.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110326172242-572482372.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110326172242-57250900.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110326172243-57251935.jpeg)
Done for today.
Very precise work Tom.
Taking shape now! Looks great Tom!
Howdy Tom, nice work. ~mike
Curt,
Thanks, on this kit it needs to be. One little misstep early can lead to something major down the build road.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on March 12, 2026, 09:55:51 AMTaking shape now! Looks great Tom!
Philip,
Thank you. This middle building is taking extra time due to interior painting.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on March 12, 2026, 10:42:18 AMHowdy Tom, nice work. ~mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thanks very much. Hobby on!
Tom
I mentioned above how I got the interior wall brace in place to align with both the front and rear walls.
This required me to make a change on the bracing of that interior wall. The photo below shows the bracing on the outside of the wall. I've marked in red where I needed to add the bracing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120326163216-572521168.jpeg)
In the next photo you can see I glued the braces to the inside of the red. I colored the red sides to show where I didn't want to blue braces.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120326163217-57253771.jpeg)
The two vertical braces in the center of the next photo are the braces for the two interior wall sections.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120326163217-57254936.jpeg)
The next photo shows that the interior wall, with the braces moved in, fits the vertical brace and lets the interior walls be perpendicular to the front and rear walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120326163217-5725590.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120326163217-572562093.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120326165353-57257895.jpeg)
Done for today.
Excellent job Tom.
Tom, I like how you go about figuring out wall placement.
Very ingenious and well executed.
Tom great job on the walls and bracing. If I didn't know any better I'd say you really enjoy a challenging build. Have fun.
Quote from: Rick on March 12, 2026, 07:39:34 PMTom, I like how you go about figuring out wall placement.
Very ingenious and well executed.
Rick,
Thank you for the kind and very generous compliment, much appreciated.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on March 12, 2026, 07:47:43 PMTom great job on the walls and bracing. If I didn't know any better I'd say you really enjoy a challenging build. Have fun.
Larry,
Thank you for the comment. I do like a challenge now and then. Seems like I've had a few of late.
Tom
I got a lot done on this build today. I painted the walls on the three areas of the service bay. I also assembled, glued the walls together and added the fascia trim.
I haven't decided just how much interior detail I want to add but the interior walls were easier to paint when laying flat. So, no matter what or how much I add, the walls are covered.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130326170244-57258885.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130326170244-572591981.jpeg)
Add, I'm always pleased when all walls are level.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130326170244-572601908.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130326170244-57261714.jpeg)
I showed this photo in a previous post and said it front sidewalk needed to be trimmed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230226152704-57167378.jpeg)
I trimmed it this afternoon and sanded down the short piece of sidewalk that was too thick.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130326170244-572622482.jpeg)
I didn't want to use the powered sanding disc. I wasn't going to chance having my finger skin removed from a sander rotating at 1200 RPMs.
Here is what I did to sand down the thick sidewalk.
I noticed the piece was as wide as my sanding stick.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130326170321-572632034.jpeg)
I used my thumb and middle finger to hold the sides of the sidewalk. And, I used them as a guide on the sides of the sanding stick. I used my pointing finger to hold the piece on the sanding stick.
I moved the piece back and forth until I had the desired thickness.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130326170321-572641.jpeg)
I noticed one sidewalk section was short and didn't fit the space.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130326170339-572681956.jpeg)
Here is how I fixed this one.
I glued a piece of scrap wood in the opening and against the section on the right. When the glue dried, I cut the top off and sanded it flat to match the height of the sidewalk.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130326170321-572652286.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130326170322-57266163.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130326170322-572672445.jpeg)
Done for today.
More problems and more fixes. ;D
The gray and red interior looks prototypical.
Howdy Tom, the station is coming together well—nice work fitting the odd bits together. ~mike
Tom as usual you take your time to make sure everything fits perfectly.
Wonderful work.
Jerry
Great progress Tom. Everything looks outstanding.
Quote from: Rick on March 13, 2026, 06:16:16 PMMore problems and more fixes. ;D
The gray and red interior looks prototypical.
Rick,
Thanks my friend. What's a kit without issues, boring.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on March 13, 2026, 09:43:47 PMHowdy Tom, the station is coming together well—nice work fitting the odd bits together. ~mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thanks very much sir.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on March 13, 2026, 11:26:23 PMTom as usual you take your time to make sure everything fits perfectly.
Wonderful work.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks very much for the kind compliment on the build. Time and patience I have for kit building.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 14, 2026, 07:41:57 AMGreat progress Tom. Everything looks outstanding.
Butty Curt,
I thank you my friend for the comment and stopping by.
Tom
Here are all the sidewalk pieces.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160326165713-572791296.jpeg)
Since they are all cut with a laser, the edges are just to sharp. I used a sanding board and took some of the stark 90 degree angle off.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160326165713-572801782.jpeg)
I think after I scribe the curb and expansion lines, they will look just fine.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160326165713-572812464.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160326165713-572821109.jpeg)
The next photo shows the walls for the third building, the showroom and supporting area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160326165713-572831387.jpeg)
Over the past few days I added the wall bracing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-160326165733-572841581.jpeg)
Done for today.
Nice job on the sidewalks and bracing Butty Tom.
Tom,
Such a cool model! You're doing a fine job in it.
Mike
Tom nice job.
Taking some time to run through the build threads to catch up.
Some real nice modeling there Tom. Always get a kick out of seeing a bubble level in use when you build something. Talk about level headedness. ;)
Bernd
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 16, 2026, 06:18:44 PMNice job on the sidewalks and bracing Butty Tom.
Butty Curt,
Thank you my friend, much appreciate you stopping by and the comment.
Tom
Quote from: Michael Hohn on March 16, 2026, 09:18:13 PMTom,
Such a cool model! You're doing a fine job in it.
Mike
Mike,
I agree, it is a cool model and I hope to do justice to it. Thanks for the compoliment.
Tom
Quote from: Bernd on March 17, 2026, 10:06:34 AMTaking some time to run through the build threads to catch up.
Some real nice modeling there Tom. Always get a kick out of seeing a bubble level in use when you build something. Talk about level headedness. ;)
Bernd
Bernd,Thank you for the nice comment on the modeling. I try to be on the level with all my builds and followers. ;D ;D Tom
I started gluing the walls together on the show room building. I also made sure they were perfectly square and at 90 degrees while gluing and afterwards.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180326160906-57285677.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180326160906-572861237.jpeg)
The small portion of this section had another small wall. I glued it once the other two were dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180326160906-572871511.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180326162850-57292636.jpeg)
While the walls were being glued, I turned my attention to the location where Horwood Bros will be located.
I drew a grid which helped locate where the structure would go in relation to the sidewalks and road.
I started in the lower left corner of the site. This is where the corner sidewalks are located.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180326160906-572881614.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180326160906-57289436.jpeg)
View of sidewalks in relation to the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180326160945-572901894.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180326160945-57291567.jpeg)
Done for today.
Tom that's coming along nicely. I noticed you seem to like building odd shaped structures but it does add a lot of interest as opposed to a plain old rectangle or square.
Very Nice. I like that idea of the flower bed.
Jerry
Tom, with the walls together and the sidewalks positioned, it gives a good idea of how big of an area this will take up.
I look forward to seeing this all come together.
Compound Angles ~ Great work Tom!
Looking good Tom..... 8)
Looking very nice! Quick question, is this the final placement relative to the tracks behind it?
Quote from: Larry C on March 18, 2026, 05:16:43 PMTom that's coming along nicely. I noticed you seem to like building odd shaped structures but it does add a lot of interest as opposed to a plain old rectangle or square.
Larry,
Thank you. I do have a few odd shaped buildings on the layout but it is just happenstance. I do enjoy a challenge so maybe that is the case here. Your comment reminded me that the last 3 out 4 buildings built are definitely odd shaped.
Tom
Quote from: Yannis on March 19, 2026, 02:33:02 PMLooking very nice! Quick question, is this the final placement relative to the tracks behind it?
Yannis,
Thank you for the compliment. The track behind this building is not a service track for Horwood Bros.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on March 18, 2026, 05:38:37 PMVery Nice. I like that idea of the flower bed.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you my friend. The flower but may be a week patch but I'll shoot for flowers. ;D
Tom
Quote from: Rick on March 18, 2026, 06:20:54 PMTom, with the walls together and the sidewalks positioned, it gives a good idea of how big of an area this will take up.
Rick,
Thanks for stopping by. Yes, it will take up a good amount of space. It will be a great addition to the area.
I have plans for other structures on both sides of this one.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 18, 2026, 07:25:26 PMI look forward to seeing this all come together.
Butty Curt,
Thank you and so do I. 8)
Tom
Quote from: Philip on March 19, 2026, 07:32:47 AMCompound Angles ~ Great work Tom!
Philip,
Yes, and more compound angles for this compound. ;D
Tom
Quote from: GPdemayo on March 19, 2026, 11:30:09 AMLooking good Tom..... 8)
Butty Greg,
Thank you my friend and thanks for stopping by.
Tom
This looks like another situation where it looks like the kit was designed for exactly the space you have for it.
dave
Dario suggested a different step in gluing this building together. He suggested gluing the two large showroom walls together after adding some exterior trim detail.
I didn't follow his steps as I have a way I glue my walls together. I like to have the wall flat on the bench as it is much easier to get a good 90 degree angle of two opposing walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190326164648-5729843.jpeg)
He suggested gluing the exterior trim on the windows first. If I followed this step, the walls wouldn't lay flat while gluing them.
Here are the trim pieces. They fit above the large window and on the top of the arched upper wall portion.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190326164649-57300465.jpeg)
Quote from: deemery on March 19, 2026, 05:11:56 PMThis looks like another situation where it looks like the kit was designed for exactly the space you have for it.
dave
Dave,
I sure got lucky in finding this kit. I agree in that it seems to be made for this space. So, I'll name and claim it so!
Tom
On a sad side note, all the pieces required to add R & R BAKER AUTO SALES" are missing from the kit. I got this kit some 15 years after it was released so it is possible they fell out when possible buyers were looking it over.
I'll reach out to Dario and see if by chance he has any spare laying around.
If not, I'll make a sign that says Horwood Brothers or Horwood Auto Sales.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190326164649-573021280.jpeg)
Here is how the sign and trim look on the pilot model.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190326164649-573032330.jpeg)
This last building is almost finished as far as the walls being glued.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190326164721-573041895.jpeg)
The level at least tells me my angled walls are correct.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190326164721-573052220.jpeg)
Done for today.
Looking at your use of the level made me smile. Turns out the location where my model shop assembly desks are located is not actually flat. There's a joint in the slab, so I have to shim workbenches to keep X-Acto knives from rolling off the top. :P
dave
Quote from: deemery on March 19, 2026, 05:33:41 PMLooking at your use of the level made me smile. Turns out the location where my model shop assembly desks are located is not actually flat. There's a joint in the slab, so I have to shim workbenches to keep X-Acto knives from rolling off the top. :P
dave
Dave,
I had a work space like that when I was at the University of Florida.
A man has to do what a man can to model. ;D
Tom
Tom, it's a shame about the signs.
Hopefully Dario has an extra set.
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 19, 2026, 04:58:42 PMQuote from: Yannis on March 19, 2026, 02:33:02 PMLooking very nice! Quick question, is this the final placement relative to the tracks behind it?
Yannis,
Thank you for the compliment. The track behind this building is not a service track for Horwood Bros.
Tom
You are welcome :). I noticed that it is not a service track, I was actually asking from the perspective of "distance from the mainline" (which is my concern when i am trying to compose a scene).
Quote from: Rick on March 19, 2026, 07:44:07 PMTom, it's a shame about the signs.
Hopefully Dario has an extra set.
Rick,
I'll send him an email and find out. I know he has a full time job so I won't bother him with a call.
Tom
Quote from: Yannis on March 20, 2026, 02:01:02 AMQuote from: ACL1504 on March 19, 2026, 04:58:42 PMQuote from: Yannis on March 19, 2026, 02:33:02 PMLooking very nice! Quick question, is this the final placement relative to the tracks behind it?
Yannis,
Thank you for the compliment. The track behind this building is not a service track for Horwood Bros.
Tom
You are welcome :). I noticed that it is not a service track, I was actually asking from the perspective of "distance from the mainline" (which is my concern when i am trying to compose a scene).
Yannis,
Sorry, I misunderstood the question. The track is 5" behind the rear of the walls.
Tom
I haven't done much on the build in the past few days.
When the two walls were glued at an angle, it created a gap in the walls as shown below. The walls will have stucco on the exterior but, I didn't want to fill the gap with putty/stucco.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220326154816-57308684.jpeg)
I took a piece of HO scale 4x4 and glued it in the gap.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220326154816-573091518.jpeg)
When dry, I used a #11 blade to shave some of the 4X4 and then used a sanding stick to sand it flush with the two walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220326154816-573101179.jpeg)
When in place, including the sidewalks, it measures just over 21.5 inches in length.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220326154816-57312388.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220326154901-573132280.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220326155018-573162059.jpeg)
Done for today.
Looking great, Tom.
Its a huge kit!
Is it possible to raise the kit or lower the footpaths slightly so the door doesn't open straight onto the footpath (ie bottom of door at the same height as the footpath)? This would be a major problem in driving rain. There should be a small step. Having said that, one of my friends back doors opened 4 inches below the paving! And that was a problem!
Cheers, Mark.
Impressive model. It is looking great.
Tom very nice job!! Dang, good thing you have lots of real estate for this one. Should be an impressive building when finished.
Howdy Tom,
Horwood Brothers is progressing nicely. It looks so good you don't need to paint it. ;).
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on March 23, 2026, 12:29:40 AMLooking great, Tom.
Its a huge kit!
Is it possible to raise the kit or lower the footpaths slightly so the door doesn't open straight onto the footpath (ie bottom of door at the same height as the footpath)? This would be a major problem in driving rain. There should be a small step. Having said that, one of my friends back doors opened 4 inches below the paving! And that was a problem!
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
Yes, it is a huge kit. I guess anything is possible. However, on this kit the door opening are on the same level as the sidewalks/footpaths. The thickness of the sidewalks is set and if I lowered them they would fit correctly against the buildings.
I can understand your friends problem. I have a friend whose driveway slopes down to the garage door. Every time it rains, the garage floor get wet.
Tom
Quote from: KentuckySouthern on March 23, 2026, 07:10:44 AMImpressive model. It is looking great.
Karl,
It is a nice kit for sure and thank you for the nice comment.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on March 23, 2026, 07:37:21 AMTom very nice job!! Dang, good thing you have lots of real estate for this one. Should be an impressive building when finished.
Larry,
Thank you, much appreciated. I do have the space where it will go and that is the only place it would fit and make sense.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on March 23, 2026, 02:32:06 PMHowdy Tom,
Horwood Brothers is progressing nicely. It looks so good you don't need to paint it. ;).
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thank you. It does look neat unpainted but I'll paint in anyway. ;D ;D
Tom
Okay, lots to report today on this build. Two self created problems/issues and two fixes.
I drew the sidewalk joints on the blank sidewalk pieces and then scribed on the lines for the expansion joints.
Dario suggested making the curbs 1/8" wide. That was a "No Go". I/8" is an HO scale 12" or 1'. My sidewalks are 6" wide so I made them 6" or 1/16" wide.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230326155537-573191431.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230326155537-573202001.jpeg)
I forgot to mention I did glue the keystone trim over the show room windows. You may have noticed this in yesterday's post.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-220326154816-573112327.jpeg)
First problem! When the showroom structure was placed against the middle one, it didn't fit as you can see in the next photo. All the corners are square.
The only thing I can think of is that when the walls were being glued together, the glue pulled in the lower portion of the wall. I did leave this wall under a weight as the glued dried over night.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230326155537-57321427.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230326155538-573232210.jpeg)
Nice job Tom. Can you break the glue seal on the large wall and glue it against the small office wall. Nice Keystone!
To fix this issue, I cut a piece of HO scale 12X12 strip wood. After a few test fits and additional cutting, I wedged it between the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230326155620-57324450.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230326155620-57325283.jpeg)
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 23, 2026, 04:04:40 PMI can understand your friends problem. I have a friend whose driveway slopes down to the garage door. Every time it rains, the garage floor get wet.
We had that problem on our first house in NH. What was worse was when the water froze, and the garage door was frozen to the floor.
Good luck bringing the walls back into plumb!
dave
Quote from: PRR Modeler on March 23, 2026, 04:29:16 PMNice job Tom. Nice Keystone!
Butty Curt,
Yea, I figured you'd like the Keystone. 8)
Tom
Quote from: deemery on March 23, 2026, 04:31:39 PMQuote from: ACL1504 on March 23, 2026, 04:04:40 PMI can understand your friends problem. I have a friend whose driveway slopes down to the garage door. Every time it rains, the garage floor get wet.
We had that problem on our first house in NH. What was worse was when the water froze, and the garage door was frozen to the floor.
Good luck bringing the walls back into plumb!
dave
Dave,
You had a real problem with the freezing. My friend did cut in a drain but when it rained more heavily, it still flooded. He finally moved. Stay tuned for the wall fix.
Tom
The 12X12 wedge fixed the wall issue. One issue down and one to go.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230326155620-57326722.jpeg)
Now the two walls meet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230326155620-573272354.jpeg)
That worked out okay. However, the front of the showroom isn't square to the front sidewalk and street.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230326155712-573322275.jpeg)
What the Hay! Now I'm really getting frustrated.
I checked all the corners on this structure and the middle one. All corner walls are square so, the front should be square as well.
Back, in a few. I need a Diet Pepsi for the rest of this post update. 8)
After checking all the corners, I went back to review the wall locations in how they are glued together.
I discovered the second issue with what I did wrong.
The diagram in the next photo shows the other self inflected wound.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230326155620-573282336.jpeg)
Clearly it shows Wall T to be glued to the inside of Wall S. The darker lines are the bracing.
I glued Wall T to the outside of Wall S. This was why the showroom didn't sit correctly. A minor mistake that was magnified down the road.
Ungluing or cutting the walls apart clearly wasn't possible. Even though, I've been successful in doing this on other models. With this kit, the two showroom walls are to fragile for me to even attempt doing that.
My solution, fix #2, was to create a small alley between the middle building and the showroom.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230326165442-573331091.jpeg)
By doing this, I was able to square up the front with the sidewalks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-230326155656-573312393.jpeg)
Done for today and probably the next few days as well! ;D
Tom that's some creating thinking on your part and since this IS your empire you can make whatever changes that "floats your boat."
Tom very well done. And a great idea with the alleyway.
Jerry
Wow Tom, that station is huge and looks so good. ~mike
Wow...what a beautiful kit...I'm just catching up and looking forward to your continued build. It'll look great on the layout.
Tom.
Nice solution to your problem. Your separation of the two structures makes perfect sense. Still following along, enjoying the journey.
Mark
Tom,
Great solution to the self inflicted wound. I forgot how big that building was.
this pans out to be a really good looking structure!
Thanks Tom on the 5" distance from the mainline piece of info. It will come handy in my scene compositions.
Quote from: Larry C on March 23, 2026, 05:19:34 PMTom that's some creating thinking on your part and since this IS your empire you can make whatever changes that "floats your boat."
Larry,
Thank you and yes, it is my empire. When Pam asks, "What are your plans for today?", my response is "Building my empire!".
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on March 24, 2026, 09:56:04 AMTom very well done. And a great idea with the alleyway.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks, much appreciated. However, I may need to change the alleyway idea.
More later on this.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on March 26, 2026, 03:46:27 PMWow Tom, that station is huge and looks so good. ~mike
Mike, Howdy,
It is a large kit and may be just a bit larger when finished.
Tom
Quote from: cuse on March 27, 2026, 07:50:15 AMWow...what a beautiful kit...I'm just catching up and looking forward to your continued build. It'll look great on the layout.
John,
This has been a fun build but with minor issues. I agree, it will look wonderful on the layout.
Tom
Quote from: craftsmankits on March 28, 2026, 12:00:34 PMTom.
Nice solution to your problem. Your separation of the two structures makes perfect sense. Still following along, enjoying the journey.
Mark
Mark,
Thank you. I appreciate you following along on the journey.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on March 28, 2026, 08:09:55 PMTom,
Great solution to the self inflicted wound. I forgot how big that building was.
Ron,
Thanks, hopefully no more self inflicted wounds. And, no guarantees either.
Tom
Quote from: Yannis on March 30, 2026, 10:36:38 AMthis pans out to be a really good looking structure!
Thanks Tom on the 5" distance from the mainline piece of info. It will come handy in my scene compositions.
Yannis,
I think it is one of Dario's best kits. You are welcome for the other information, always happy to help.
Tom
I'm back on this one for a little bit of time.
I added the upper trim to the showroom. There is an odd angle to one set of walls and here is how I married the trim to look correct.
I cut a small piece of trim to length and cut one end at a 45 degree angle. The angle was glued to the rear wall. You can see this in the lower right corner of the building.
I turned the structure upside down and glued a trim piece to the wall as shown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040426162031-573512363.jpeg)
To get the correct angle for the trim board on the front, I used a single edged blade to cut the trim board.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040426162031-573552370.jpeg)
Looking at the building upright, you can see the angle cut on the trim board.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040426162031-573561542.jpeg)
I next glued the remaining trim board to the upper portion of the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040426162031-573572147.jpeg)
Using the same method as I mention above, I used the blade to remove the trim board.
The next photo shows I have a nice clean angle cut to the trim boards.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040426162031-573581097.jpeg)
Back in a few, I need to turn off the AC as it is now cold in here. I also need to get a cold Diet Pepsi.
Since the two structures were separated, I needed to fix the wall on the middle building, the one on the left.
A piece needs to be added so this side wall is the same height as the front and rear wall sections.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040426162107-573592033.jpeg)
I found a piece of scrap wood the same thickness are the kit walls. I cut it to fit between the front and rear walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040426162108-573601595.jpeg)
I then marked the wall height and cut it to fit the correct height as the other two wall sections.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040426162108-573601595.jpeg)
I cut it to fit, glued it in place and added the upper trim board.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040426162108-573625.jpeg)
This kit was designed to be built on a diorama base. Or, the pilot model was built on a diorama base. I've only seen this kit build on two occasions and both were built on the diorama base.
Since mine is being build to sit on the layout, it drastically changes the way I have to wire it for all the lights.
The Ngineering LED Power Distribution Board (Sold separately) can be used either under the diorama or inside one the the buildings. I do plan on using the LED power board. Adding it to the kit and under the layout will be a wiring nightmare. That option is out!
Since I separated the buildings and plan on a detailed interior, adding the power board to the inside is not an option either.
Well, not an option as I have the kit laid out now.
The circuit/power board is 3 3/8" in length. I'll need to widen the alleyway. Actually, I'll need to scratch build a small addition to hide the power board.
All light wires will end up inside this addition and soldered to the LED Distribution Power Board.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040426162108-573632010.jpeg)
The opening shown below is just over 3 3/4" side. Plenty of room for the board and wiring.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040426162125-573641578.jpeg)
Done for today.
Nice job on the trim Tom.
I was thinking reading this that a line cut through the concrete between the two buildings, then covered by asphalt, would be prototypical. That could be a plumbing repair, drains, etc. But I see you have another solution in mind.
dave
Great tip on cutting those angles.
Hope I can remember it if I ever need to do the same.
Really a learning experience following along with your builds
terry
Good progress, Tom. Parts of your narrative remind me of my working years: Fixing bugs in someone else's software...
Tom great idea with cutting the trim. And doing the lighting.
Jerry
Tom, Nice work on the trim.
Seeing as you plan to put the light board between the 2 buildings, I'm assuming you have another solution besides the alley.
8) In the cabinet biz, we called those fillers long ago!
Nice work!
Tom,
The plot thickens. Your narrative is getting ever more interesting.
Mike
Tom great job on those angle cuts and trimming.
Howdy Tom,
The trim work is exceptional. Good luck with the power board location. I'd be looking to locate it behind a faux wall on the back of the structure.
Have fun,
mike
Hi Tom, I have used a diagram from my Horwoods kit to show you how I think you could work with 2 LED distribution boards instead of just one.
You can easily daisy chain the 2 distribution boards together and still only use the one power supply to power both.
The conecting wires for the distribution boards can be run under your layout/structures.
All of the other magnet wires for the LED's can be run internally within each structure.
Also give you more space on the boards to add more LED's to light up the interiors if you choose to do so.
So the red lines shown on the diagram indicate interior walls that I added to my Horwoods, and the green boxes represent the LED distribution boards.
The distribution boards will be hidden behind the added interior walls, and easier to hook up from above when the time comes to do that part.
I will be more than happy to answer any other questions that you might have in building this wonderful kit.
Greg
_DSC3188.jpg
Quote from: deemery on April 04, 2026, 08:18:42 PMI was thinking reading this that a line cut through the concrete between the two buildings, then covered by asphalt, would be prototypical. That could be a plumbing repair, drains, etc. But I see you have another solution in mind.
dave
Dave,
That is a good idea and I'm not sure what I'll do here. However, I did make a note of your suggestion.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on April 05, 2026, 07:49:30 AMGreat tip on cutting those angles.
Hope I can remember it if I ever need to do the same.
Rick,
Thanks, I've used this method to cut angles on to many models to count.
I'm sure you'll remember when the time comes.
Tom
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on April 05, 2026, 07:53:17 AMReally a learning experience following along with your builds
terry
Terry,
Thanks, I learn as I go as well. ;D
Tom
Quote from: jbvb on April 05, 2026, 08:51:54 AMGood progress, Tom. Parts of your narrative remind me of my working years: Fixing bugs in someone else's software...
James,
Thank you. Your comments reminded me of some of my work years as well. As the Special Operations Commander assigned to the Orlando International Airport, I wore many hats. One of the things the Captain asked me to do was to respond in writing, for the Mayor's signature, complaints that came in on officers.
These officers didn't work for me but I was tasked with writing the response. I asked the Captain, "Why am I handling this complaint and not the officer's Lieutenant?" His response, "The Mayor likes the way you answer and address the compliant."
So, if you are good at your job, you get to fix the bugs/complaints others don't seem to be able to.
Tom
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 13, 2026, 02:29:58 PMQuote from: jbvb on April 05, 2026, 08:51:54 AMGood progress, Tom. Parts of your narrative remind me of my working years: Fixing bugs in someone else's software...
James,
Thank you. Your comments reminded me of some of my work years as well. As the Special Operations Commander assigned to the Orlando International Airport, I wore many hats. One of the things the Captain asked me to do was to respond in writing, for the Mayor's signature, complaints that came in on officers.
These officers didn't work for me but I was tasked with writing the response. I asked the Captain, "Why am I handling this complaint and not the officer's Lieutenant?" His response, "The Mayor likes the way you answer and address the compliant."
So, if you are good at your job, you get to fix the bugs/complaints others don't seem to be able to.
Tom
Summary of Tom's story, "The reward for good work is ... more work."
dave
Quote from: Jerry on April 05, 2026, 08:59:09 AMTom great idea with cutting the trim. And doing the lighting.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks my friend for stopping by and posting your thoughts.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on April 13, 2026, 02:30:49 PMQuote from: ACL1504 on April 13, 2026, 02:29:58 PMQuote from: jbvb on April 05, 2026, 08:51:54 AMGood progress, Tom. Parts of your narrative remind me of my working years: Fixing bugs in someone else's software...
James,
Thank you. Your comments reminded me of some of my work years as well. As the Special Operations Commander assigned to the Orlando International Airport, I wore many hats. One of the things the Captain asked me to do was to respond in writing, for the Mayor's signature, complaints that came in on officers.
These officers didn't work for me but I was tasked with writing the response. I asked the Captain, "Why am I handling this complaint and not the officer's Lieutenant?" His response, "The Mayor likes the way you answer and address the compliant."
So, if you are good at your job, you get to fix the bugs/complaints others don't seem to be able to.
Tom
Summary of Tom's story, "The reward for good work is ... more work."
dave
Exactly right Dave, spot on for sure.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on April 05, 2026, 08:59:22 AMTom, Nice work on the trim.
Seeing as you plan to put the light board between the 2 buildings, I'm assuming you have another solution besides the alley.
Ron,
Thank you. The light board will not be located there after all. Please refer to the post from Greg and my response.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on April 05, 2026, 08:37:03 PM8) In the cabinet biz, we called those fillers long ago!
Nice work!
Philip,
Thank you. Yes, fillers. I've done my share of using fillers on models also.
Tom
Mike,
Well, I am to please and keep everyone on seats edges. ;D
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on April 08, 2026, 07:18:39 AMTom great job on those angle cuts and trimming.
Larry,
Thanks very much. Gotta do what works best.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on April 09, 2026, 11:28:20 AMHowdy Tom,
The trim work is exceptional. Good luck with the power board location. I'd be looking to locate it behind a faux wall on the back of the structure.
Have fun,
mike
Mike,
Thanks very much. The power board location has been solved. The faux wall is where it/they will be located.
Tom
Quote from: Ensign on April 09, 2026, 12:15:47 PMHi Tom, I have used a diagram from my Horwoods kit to show you how I think you could work with 2 LED distribution boards instead of just one.
You can easily daisy chain the 2 distribution boards together and still only use the one power supply to power both.
The conecting wires for the distribution boards can be run under your layout/structures.
All of the other magnet wires for the LED's can be run internally within each structure.
Also give you more space on the boards to add more LED's to light up the interiors if you choose to do so.
So the red lines shown on the diagram indicate interior walls that I added to my Horwoods, and the green boxes represent the LED distribution boards.
The distribution boards will be hidden behind the added interior walls, and easier to hook up from above when the time comes to do that part.
I will be more than happy to answer any other questions that you might have in building this wonderful kit.
Greg
_DSC3188.jpg
Greg,
Your response/comment is perfect and solved the separated structure issue. Using two boards was something I didn't think of doing. Thank you for that and I'm sure I'll have questions as I move forward.
Again, thank you.
Tom
I painted the sidewalk pieces with full strength Floquil Aged Concrete.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130426135522-573932249.jpeg)
I cut out the roof panel from the cardboard supplied in the kit. I felt like it was to flimsy for my use. However, Dario does show where the builder can use 12X12 roof supports.
I found a piece of cardstock from the "stash" box and cut it to fit. You can see how thin the kit roof cardboard is in the next photo. My piece is on the bottom.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130426135523-57394774.jpeg)
I used the kit roof panel as a template for cutting the newer thicker roof panel.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130426135523-573951883.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130426135523-573961446.jpeg)
New roof panel test fitted, nice and tight, but not so tight is can't be removed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130426135523-573971209.jpeg)
Same picture with sidewalks in place but not glued.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130426135617-57398417.jpeg)
When I cut out the canopy roof panel, it was an obvious "no fit"! I went back and checked if I glued the canopy walls together correctly. Apparently I did, so I'm not sure what happened.
The canopy fit perfectly on the building. I would think that if I did it wrong, it wouldn't fit on the front of the building. Not an issue that couldn't be fixed though.
I'll just say I cut a new canopy roof panel from the same material as the main structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130426135617-573992255.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130426135650-574022213.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130426135617-5740033.jpeg)
I also finished drawing in the grids for Horwood Bros. base.
I used Elmer's White Glue to seal the cardboard. It will be left as is until tomorrow when the glue is thoroughly dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130426135617-574011852.jpeg)
The white glue dries clear. When it is dry, I'll paint the road and parking lot.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130426135651-574041389.jpeg)
Done for today.
Great job so far Tom. Will it be done by Saturday? ;D
Nice to see you back it Tom.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on April 13, 2026, 06:02:22 PMGreat job so far Tom. Will it be done by Saturday? ;D
Curt,
Thanks Butty, much appreciate the comment.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on April 13, 2026, 06:27:19 PMNice to see you back it Tom.
Rick,
Thanks, I have a week prior to the new sod being delivered Friday.
Tom
I spilled the white glue and you can see it is still drying where other areas are dry. The good news is that is seeks it's own level while drying.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190426165212-57417716.jpeg)
I let the glue dry for a several days prior to painting in the paved areas.
The unpainted areas are where future structures will be placed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190426165213-57419598.jpeg)
I placed the sidewalks in position to check the alignment and proximity to the main structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190426165213-574201455.jpeg)
The main building sidewalks were aligned with the building, marked and glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190426165213-57421772.jpeg)
I set the building in position and used small weights to hold the sidewalks while the glue dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190426165213-574221342.jpeg)
While the sidewalks were drying, I used painter tape to mark the inside edges of the corner sidewalks.
I painted on some white glue and then added some green turf.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190426165303-574231121.jpeg)
In this case, I used Woodland Scenics Blended Turf #T1349 as the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190426165303-574241867.jpeg)
I left it alone and let the white glue soak into the blended turf.
Done for today.
Tom, too bad laying the sod isn't as easy as the Woodland Scenic's Turf.
Everything is very well done Tom.
Quote from: Rick on April 19, 2026, 06:04:01 PMTom, too bad laying the sod isn't as easy as the Woodland Scenic's Turf.
But imagine how big the static grass gun would have to be... Who's going to hold that thing up?
dave
Tom looking good. Great tutorial on how you did all of this.
Just a pleasure following your builds.
Jerry
Tom, you have made a ton of progress since I last looked in. It is all starting to come together. The sidewalks look great.
Fine job Tom!
Quote from: Rick on April 19, 2026, 06:04:01 PMTom, too bad laying the sod isn't as easy as the Woodland Scenic's Turf.
Rick,
Yes, you are correct about that! ;D
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on April 19, 2026, 06:36:08 PMEverything is very well done Tom.
Thanks Butty Curt.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on April 19, 2026, 07:06:00 PMQuote from: Rick on April 19, 2026, 06:04:01 PMTom, too bad laying the sod isn't as easy as the Woodland Scenic's Turf.
But imagine how big the static grass gun would have to be... Who's going to hold that thing up?
dave
Dave,
Well, I sure wouldn't want to hold it! 8)
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on April 20, 2026, 09:42:56 AMTom looking good. Great tutorial on how you did all of this.
Just a pleasure following your builds.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you for the kind and generous compliment. I'm very happy to have you follow along. I also enjoy posting the progress.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on April 20, 2026, 11:38:25 AMTom, you have made a ton of progress since I last looked in. It is all starting to come together. The sidewalks look great.
Ron,
Thank you my friend. I hope you wife made it home today.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on April 20, 2026, 12:34:08 PMFine job Tom!
Philip,
Thank you Philip for the comment and for stopping by.
Tom
I cut the roof panel from the kit template. As I mentioned in a previous post, this cardboard panel is to thin for my liking.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190426165303-574251144.jpeg)
I used it as a pattern and cut the new roof panel from the much thicker cardboard.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190426165303-574261360.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-200426180336-57432285.jpeg)
Once the sidewalks were securely glued in place, it was easy to just slide the structure in against the sidewalks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190426165338-57429849.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190426165338-574302110.jpeg)
Have more progress but didn't get the photos loaded and cropped for this posting.
Done for today.
Hi Tom, everything your doing is looking wonderful!
When I built my Horwoods, I used a method that used 2 layers when it came to the roofing.
I had fully documented it in my RR Lines forum build, but we all know what sadly happened to all of that stuff.
I wish I still had my Horwoods diorama to show you what I mean, but I sold it to "Little Canada"
However I have since used the same technique on other structures I have built.
So for the first layer you can use styrene or cardstock whatever you choose.
This first layer ends up being the ceiling of the interior.
You can mount all of your LED's to the underside of this layer where you plan on having lighted interiors.
Then feeding all of the magnet wires for those LED's up through that first layer, and then running those wires to the LED distribution board, as shown below in this structure.
_DSC2078.jpg.
I then add the second layer in this case scribed wood flooring over top of the magnet wires.
In your case it will be the cardstock roofing panels provided in your kit that you have already cut out.
Instead of wooded flooring your upper panel will have the gravel roofing material.
On my Horwoods I glued the first panel with the LED's in place, and left the gravel roof panels loose to allow me access to the interior to allow me to do the final magnet wire hook ups to the distribution board/boards.
_DSC2079.jpg
_DSC2080.jpg
This method allowed me to place LED's where I wanted them to be for interior lighting.
Also allowed me to run all of the magnet wires over to the place that I had the distribution board placed.
I cut away the first layer leaving an opening where the distibution board was placed.
The second/top layer hides all of that stuff when you are finished, and it worked reall well for me on my Horwoods in the end.
Greg
Tom,
It's always a joy to watch the Master at work.
Rich
Sure some fine looking modeling being done here.
;)
Greg,
Thanks very much for the suggestion. I really like the idea of a second or sub roof. As you said it can hide the wires as well.
Also, gluing the sub roof/ceiling to the kit is also excellent. I'm looking forward to me getting that far.
Thanks very much!
Tom
Quote from: Pennman on April 22, 2026, 10:16:43 AMTom,
It's always a joy to watch the Master at work.
Rich
Rich,
Thanks for the very kind compliment. I hope it turns out as a Master Piece.
Tom
Quote from: KentuckySouthern on April 22, 2026, 08:08:21 PMSure some fine looking modeling being done here.
;)
Karl,
Thank you, very generous comment, much appreciated.
Tom
I glued down the sidewalks and used weights to hold them down until the glue dried. I also used the same thickness of strip wood so the weights were level and not sitting at an angle. I wanted the sidewalks flat while drying and didn't want to find them glued and not level.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190426165338-57431971.jpeg)
I wanted a few flowering plants in the triangle of the corner sidewalks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010526162837-57474587.jpeg)
I didn't have any pink or violet flowers. Here is what I did to make them.
I rubbed a #2 pencil eraser on the layout to get the pink. I used a magic marker to stain some of the pink eraser purple. This is the mix I glued in the flower triangle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010526162836-57471929.jpeg)
I positioned the showroom building where I wanted it and glued the sidewalks in place using the same method as the others.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010526164646-5748496.jpeg)
I glued the two pillars to the gas station canopy. I made sure they were both perpendicular.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010526162837-574751287.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010526163013-574811695.jpeg)
I then glued the pillar base in place. The weight helps hold the base in place while the glue dries.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010526163013-574791.jpeg)
I'm almost ready to add the stucco to the buildings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010526165423-574851424.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-010526165423-574861952.jpeg)
Excellent creativity on adding the colors to the flower bed.
That is one impressive looking building.
Very nice. A remarkable model even at this stage of construction.
Mike
Tom love those flowers and the way you made them.
I didn't realize how big that building was. Wonderful work and tutorial as usual.
Jerry
Lookin' good so far, Tom! Nice touch with the flowers. I suspect it'll be awkward trying to stucco and paint the structures in place or are they just set on the diorama?
Jeff
Creative way to make some different colored flowers!
Tom this is coming along very nicely!! Should make a very nice addition to your Empire.
Howdy Tom,
Excellent work assembling the kit. You've made it look easy when it is not. Good luck with the stucco.
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: Rick on May 01, 2026, 05:40:52 PMExcellent creativity on adding the colors to the flower bed.
That is one impressive looking building.
Rick,
Thank you for the comment. It is one impressive building. I'm looking forward to getting it finished.
Tom
Quote from: Michael Hohn on May 02, 2026, 10:13:09 AMVery nice. A remarkable model even at this stage of construction.
Mike
Mike,
Thanks very much. I've always wanted to build this one and with the additional detailing by me, it is taking more time.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on May 02, 2026, 10:45:02 AMTom love those flowers and the way you made them.
I didn't realize how big that building was. Wonderful work and tutorial as usual.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you for the comment. I came across the eraser flowers by accident. I was erasing some lines and "Bingo!" - flowers. 8)
Tom
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 06, 2026, 02:53:45 PMQuote from: Jerry on May 02, 2026, 10:45:02 AMTom love those flowers and the way you made them.
I didn't realize how big that building was. Wonderful work and tutorial as usual.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you for the comment. I came across the eraser flowers by accident. I was erasing some lines and "Bingo!" - flowers. 8)
Tom
"Happy little accidents...."
dave
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on May 02, 2026, 11:15:58 AMLookin' good so far, Tom! Nice touch with the flowers. I suspect it'll be awkward trying to stucco and paint the structures in place or are they just set on the diorama?
Jeff
Dr. Jeff,
Thank you as well. I do plan on using stucco on the walls but you also pose a great question.
My plan is to have the building removal, not just for stucco application but also to add the LED lighting.
I glued the sidewalks in place and am using them as a guide to position the buildings.
Tom
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060526144215-574902391.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060526144215-574911627.jpeg)
Quote from: deemery on May 06, 2026, 02:56:22 PMQuote from: ACL1504 on May 06, 2026, 02:53:45 PMQuote from: Jerry on May 02, 2026, 10:45:02 AMTom love those flowers and the way you made them.
I didn't realize how big that building was. Wonderful work and tutorial as usual.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you for the comment. I came across the eraser flowers by accident. I was erasing some lines and "Bingo!" - flowers. 8)
Tom
"Happy little accidents...."
dave
Dave,
Yes, a very happy little accident!
Tom
Quote from: ReadingBob on May 02, 2026, 01:14:36 PMCreative way to make some different colored flowers!
Butty Bob,
Very happy to have you stop by for a look see. Flowers, I just got lucky.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on May 05, 2026, 04:55:55 PMTom this is coming along very nicely!! Should make a very nice addition to your Empire.
Larry,
Thank you and I agree, I believe this will be a nice viewer focal point.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on May 06, 2026, 08:29:43 AMHowdy Tom,
Excellent work assembling the kit. You've made it look easy when it is not. Good luck with the stucco.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thank you for the kind compliment. Parts are easy and others, not so much. I think the stucco process will be an easy one.
Tom
I usually mention this next part at the start of my builds. But alas, I got carried away and forgot.
With each kit build, I've made a habit of copying the color signs or other sheets. I have a nice collection of kit signs and other related stuff from kit signs. I may never use them but, I have them.
If my color printed doesn't give me a good copy of the signs, I take them to Staples and make them on their copier.
Plus, it is a good idea to have a back up just in case I mess up a color sign.
Original on right -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060526144215-574871320.jpeg)
Original on bottom -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060526144215-57489308.jpeg)
Over the past few days, I've been working on the center building. The is the office and service bay.
The Tichy plastic door fits on the left opening but not on the right. The right opening is to short as you can see from the pencil line.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060526144215-57492641.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060526144301-57493509.jpeg)
I used a #11 blade and carefully removed the area above the door opening.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060526144302-574942367.jpeg)
Since this structure will be located on the third level, all interior areas can be seen by the viewer. The bay is an easy fix for viewing as it is open. The offices on the left and right need flooring.
I braced the office on the right with 12X12s. The 12X12 brace on the right interferes with my ability to add a floor.
Here is how I fixed it. I didn't want to wet the wall as this would cause a warp I may not be able to fix. So, I used a new #11 blade and carefully cut the 12X12 from the wall.
The next two photos are a recreation of what I did. No way would I ever cut anything with my fingers this close to the blade. I was holding the blade and the camera.
I cut very shallow passes with each one going deeper. On the eighth pass, the 12X12 was free. A little sanding and I was good to go.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060526144302-574952494.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060526144302-574962380.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060526144302-574971866.jpeg)
Back in a few. I need a Diet Pepsi fix.
I used 8X8s to make a floor base frame. I made the floor out of thin cardboard and painted it a tan color. When the paint was dry, I sprayed it with a gloss finish.
I then glued it inside the small office on the floor frame. This office will have the door open.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060526144344-574981568.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060526144419-5750451.jpeg)
I used a 2ply cardboard for the the service bay. I needed a little more side edge to glue it in place. I used HO scale 2X4s and glued them to the top of the cardboard flush with the sides.
I also sanded down the front edge of the cardboard to remove the square edge.
To match the red, I painted them with Floquil Signal Red. I pained t he floor with Folkart Cool Concrete.
I'll use pastels and A&I to weather the floor later in the build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060526144344-57499789.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060526144344-575001189.jpeg)
When the bay floor is installed, you can't see the scale 2X4s on the sides and the floor is a little darker.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060526144344-57501934.jpeg)
For the office on the left, I installed a wooden oak floor. I used the same style of floor bracing as I did with the office on the right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060526144419-575031152.jpeg)
This middle building is now ready for stucco.
Done for today.
Tom, it couldn't have been easy make that doorway bigger with the walls put together.
Floors look good.
I'm always floored by your creativity.
Great job Tom. Like I've said before you can learn a lot about modeling watching you do one of these kits!!
Jerry
Nice workaround on this kit, Tom.
It appears you have this under control.
Rich
Very nice painting the interior.
Howdy Tom,
The details you are adding to the interior are top notch. Horwood is progressing nicely. It's fun to watch your build.
Have fun,
mike
Let the stucco times roll! ;D
Quote from: Rick on May 06, 2026, 06:48:49 PMTom, it couldn't have been easy make that doorway bigger with the walls put together.
Floors look good.
I'm always floored by your creativity.
Rick,
Thanks and no, making the door larger was a bit tricksie.
Stay tuned, maybe I can get you floored once more.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on May 07, 2026, 05:23:14 PMGreat job Tom. Like I've said before you can learn a lot about modeling watching you do one of these kits!!
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks very much. Always happy to share any small knowledge I have.
Tom
Quote from: Pennman on May 07, 2026, 07:43:55 PMNice workaround on this kit, Tom.
It appears you have this under control.
Rich
Rich,
Good to see you stop by for a look see. I've got a handle on this for at the moment.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on May 08, 2026, 06:55:15 AMVery nice painting the interior.
Butty Curt,
Thanks my friend.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on May 08, 2026, 08:10:19 AMHowdy Tom,
The details you are adding to the interior are top notch. Horwood is progressing nicely. It's fun to watch your build.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
I'm happy you are having fun following along. It has been a fun build for me as well. And, thank you.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on May 08, 2026, 04:25:53 PMLet the stucco times roll! ;D
Curt,
It won't be long now until the stucco starts flying around and hopefully on the walls. 8)
Tom
Coming on nicely, Tom.
The floors look good.
Cheers, Mark.
On page 19 of this thread, Greg, mentioned he used two distribution boards for his build. I like this idea, especially since I'm dividing the kit into two structures.
He added interior walls in a different configuration than how the walls were added in the kit. Greg's photo with the red lines shows where he added his interior walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080526163738-575311984.jpeg)
I like his wall locations and did the same to my version of the kit.
Back in a few, Diet Pepsi time.
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on May 08, 2026, 04:52:49 PMComing on nicely, Tom.
The floors look good.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Cheers,
Thanks very much. ;D
Tom
The interior walls in the kit are 1/16" thick Basswood. I pulled out a piece of the same material from my Basswood stash and started to cut the new interior walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080526163403-575191376.jpeg)
I made sure the end of the Basswood stock was square prior to cutting the first wall section.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080526163403-575221140.jpeg)
I cut a section a little larger than needed so I could trim it to get the perfect fit.
I trimmed a little each test fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080526163403-575231802.jpeg)
When satisfied with the cut wall, I glued it in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080526163403-57524689.jpeg)
Notice in the next photo the new wall is not perpendicular to the rear wall.
This was done on purpose. If glued square to the rear wall, the wall would interfere with the rear window.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080526163404-575251129.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080526163448-575261295.jpeg)
This slight angle of the wall is not noticeable once looking in the window.
For the longer of the three walls, I glued 12X12s to each end to give the wall more gluing surface and a more secure fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080526163448-575272101.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080526163448-575281823.jpeg)
The third wall was measured, twice and probable thrice, and then cut - glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080526163448-575291532.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-080526163448-575301848.jpeg)
Done for today.
My shop teacher told us "Never trust an edge you didn't cut yourself." It's actually rare to get a sheet of basswood whose end is square to the sides.... Usually I run the end of the sheet through my modeler's table saw to square it off.
dave
Great job on the interior walls placement. I knew there had to be a reason for the angled wall!
Getting more impressive day by day. Thanks for the progress update!
Quote from: deemery on May 08, 2026, 05:48:34 PMMy shop teacher told us "Never trust an edge you didn't cut yourself." It's actually rare to get a sheet of basswood whose end is square to the sides.... Usually I run the end of the sheet through my modeler's table saw to square it off.
dave
Dave,
I heard the same thing from my grand father. Excellent advice.
This is the first sheet of Basswood that had a square end.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on May 09, 2026, 07:42:57 AMGreat job on the interior walls placement. I knew there had to be a reason for the angled wall!
Butty Curt,
Thanks very much. Yea, angled interior wall, but looking straight on through the window, you can't tell.
Tom
Quote from: Yannis on May 11, 2026, 11:46:31 AMGetting more impressive day by day. Thanks for the progress update!
Yannis,
Thank you, much appreciated. I'm getting there however, slowly.
Tom
I installed the large wall in the show room per Greg's suggestion.
The distribution/circuit board will be located behind this wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110526174730-5753853.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110526174731-575408.jpeg)
I still need to make a showroom floor for this one.
I also recut all the roof panels. I'm following Greg's suggestion and having a sub roof to run the light wires.
I added a second shy light to the front of the service station area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110526174731-57541664.jpeg)
Middle building/ service bay.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110526174731-57542950.jpeg)
The sub roof on the showroom is two separate roof panels.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110526174731-575432127.jpeg)
The next photo shows the sky light opening in the sub roof panel.
The main roof panel is on the bottom.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110526174802-57544282.jpeg)
I drew a pencil line around the sub roof opening and used it as a guide to cut the main roof opening sky light. This way both openings fit correctly.
The main showroom roof is one panel.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110526174802-5754540.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110526174803-57546891.jpeg)
Once I make a showroom floor, I'll be ready to add the stucco to all buildings.
Done for today.
Tom,
Your build looks might T Fine! There's no doubt not to trust Greg, as his workmanship and wonderful ideas should
be published. I still to this day look back on his lamp tutorial he posted on the old Railroad Line Forums. Good
information to be had. Your build is coming along nicely.
Rich
Hi Tom, glad to see that your adopting the sub-roof idea.
The only thing you should change is cutting openings in them where your distribution boards will be located.
That way you can leave the sub-roof in place while you hook up/solder the magnet wires to the distribution boards.
The openings will also allow you to run the magnet wires down into the areas where the boards are located.
Rich, you are so very kind to talk about my work so kindly, thank you my friend!
Greg
Very nice Tom.
Quote from: Pennman on May 11, 2026, 06:29:26 PMTom,
Your build looks might T Fine! There's no doubt not to trust Greg, as his workmanship and wonderful ideas should
be published. I still to this day look back on his lamp tutorial he posted on the old Railroad Line Forums. Good
information to be had. Your build is coming along nicely.
Rich
Rich,
Thanks very much for the nice compliment.
I have no problem taking Greg's suggestions. It is "good for me" that he has built Horwood Bros. and can give insight as to what to look for and how to make it better.
Tom
Quote from: Ensign on May 11, 2026, 07:15:06 PMHi Tom, glad to see that your adopting the sub-roof idea.
The only thing you should change is cutting openings in them where your distribution boards will be located.
That way you can leave the sub-roof in place while you hook up/solder the magnet wires to the distribution boards.
The openings will also allow you to run the magnet wires down into the areas where the boards are located.
Rich, you are so very kind to talk about my work so kindly, thank you my friend!
Greg
Greg,
Thanks very much for the suggestion. I came up with a solution that will work and let me have plenty of room to wire and handle the boards.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on May 11, 2026, 07:35:08 PMVery nice Tom.
Thanks very much Curt. I appreciate you stopping by on a regular basis.
Tom
I took Greg's suggestion of the openings for the distribution boards. I came up with a solution that will work for me and also allow me to run the magnet wires.
The interior wall thickness is not so that I can cut the sub roof down the middle and still have a secure base of support.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130526141723-57547235.jpeg)
I turned the main building over and drew pencil lines on bottom side of the sub roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130526141723-575481997.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130526141723-57549316.jpeg)
I glued 12X12s to the top sides of the interior wall where the sub roof will be divided. These 12X12s will support the sub roof on each side of the interior wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130526143450-575572063.jpeg)
I then cut cardboard sub roof down the middle of the two pencil lines.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130526141723-575502064.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130526141723-575512441.jpeg)
Now I'll have the access necessary for the placement and wiring of the distribution boards.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130526141813-575522264.jpeg)
Top roof in place on the main building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130526141813-575532091.jpeg)
I also added 12X12s to the showroom as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130526141848-575561057.jpeg)
I also used 2 ply cardboard for the showroom floor. This will be painted white or light gray and then spray on a gloss coat.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-130526141813-57555515.jpeg)
Done for today.
Neat!
Very precise as usual Tom.
Are you planning to seal the walls before you tackle the stucco?
dave
Quote from: PRR Modeler on May 13, 2026, 07:35:34 PMVery precise as usual Tom.
Butty Curt,
I appreciate the comment my friend.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on May 13, 2026, 07:39:07 PMAre you planning to seal the walls before you tackle the stucco?
dave
Dave,
I don't think that is necessary as I'm using Floquil Reefer White Enamel with the Durham's. However, I did spray the walls with Tamiya Insignia White rattle can spray. Not so much to seal the walls, but more to give me a base white as an undercoat.
Tom
Great progress Tom, love the narration & photos..... 8)
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 15, 2026, 03:33:38 PMQuote from: deemery on May 13, 2026, 07:39:07 PMAre you planning to seal the walls before you tackle the stucco?
dave
Dave,
I don't think that is necessary as I'm using Floquil Reefer White Enamel with the Durham's. However, I did spray the walls with Tamiya Insignia White rattle can spray. Not so much to seal the walls, but more to give me a base white as an undercoat.
Tom
That's probably good enough to prevent warping from the stucco process.
dave
Great progress Tom. It's not as simple a build as I thought it would be. Thanks for all the photos and updates. Still stalking your build. Mark
I've always thought Horwoods to be one of the better projects out there. Modern and clean.
You're doing a fine job of construction and better than fine job of 'splainin'
Quote from: GPdemayo on May 15, 2026, 04:16:20 PMGreat progress Tom, love the narration & photos..... 8)
Butty Greg,
Thank you my friend for following and the generous complient.
Tom
Quote from: craftsmankits on May 17, 2026, 10:05:50 PMGreat progress Tom. It's not as simple a build as I thought it would be. Thanks for all the photos and updates. Still stalking your build. Mark
Mark,
Thank you very much, I appreciate the comment. No, this isn't a simple build even though I've added more work to the build.
Thank you also for being a stalker here. ;D All stalkers are certainly welcome.
Tom
Quote from: KentuckySouthern on May 20, 2026, 08:42:26 PMI've always thought Horwoods to be one of the better projects out there. Modern and clean.
You're doing a fine job of construction and better than fine job of 'splainin'
Brother Karl,
Thank very much, I appreciate the comment. This is a build that is more difficult than it appears on the box photo. However, it will be a very fine addition to the A&S RR when finished.
Tom
Sometime over the past week I sprayed the exterior walls with Tamiya Insignia White. I did this just to be safe when adding the stucco to the walls.
I'll be using Floquil White with the Durham's Water Putty. The Floquil is a lacquer base so I shouldn't have a warping issue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210526171609-575791144.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210526171609-575812131.jpeg)
The stucco will cover any paint blemishes and seams.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210526171610-5758236.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-210526171610-575831053.jpeg)
Done for this fine day.
Looks great Tom. Do you need some Tuscan Red for the keystone shape?
Quote from: PRR Modeler on May 21, 2026, 05:48:43 PMDo you need some Tuscan Red for the keystone shape?
;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on May 21, 2026, 05:48:43 PMLooks great Tom. Do you need some Tuscan Red for the keystone shape?
Butty Curt,
Well, thanks but no thanks for your kind suggestion. I have plenty of ACL Royal Purple.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on May 21, 2026, 06:10:09 PMQuote from: PRR Modeler on May 21, 2026, 05:48:43 PMDo you need some Tuscan Red for the keystone shape?
;D
Rick,
Like I just said above, it ain't gonna happen. 8)
Tom
Today I applied stucco to two of the Horwood Bros. buildings.
Dario suggests using a lacquer/solvent based paint when applying the stucco. I used Floquil Reefer White which is also his recommendation. I followed his suggestion in how to apply the stucco. I have mixed feeling on how it turned out.
The process he suggested is to take a soft 1/4" brush, paint some of the white on the wall and then dip the brush in the Durham's water putty and dab this on the wet paint on the wall.
I started on the rear wall of the service bay and then to the rest of the building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240526145558-57600495.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240526145559-57601809.jpeg)
I want to mention here that areas on the walls signs will be applied. The signs in the kit are paper and flat.
Thinking ahead to adding the signs, I wanted to be very careful in adding thick or heavy stucco to those areas.
I was perhaps to careful in adding the stucco as it is very subtle when looking at the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240526145559-576022346.jpeg)
I hope you can see the stucco application. When I lighten the photo, the stucco disappears.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240526145617-57605326.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240526145559-576041447.jpeg)
One thing to consider is the fact the Durham's water putty has a yellowish or tan color. Horwood Brothers is supposed to be white. I'll end up painting it when all is done.
For now, I'll add stucco to the large show room building. I'll let the structures sit a few days and then I'll made the decision to leave them as is or add another very light coat of stucco.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-240526145559-576031779.jpeg)
Done for today.
I think the stucco looks good.
I also think you can scrape some of it off where the signs go.
Quote from: Rick on May 24, 2026, 03:40:45 PMI think the stucco looks good.
I also think you can scrape some of it off where the signs go.
Suggest doing a test strip with the stucco. Then you can test scraping -or- sanding the stucco flat on the test, before working on the model.
dave
I think it looks very smooth which is a look I like.
Tom, I think your stucco looks exactly how it should look.
I never had to repaint my Horwood's after applying my stucco.
I also never had to sand any areas where signs got glued down on it.
Keep up the great work!
Greg
Tom you get my approval it's looks just fine!
Jerry
Quote from: Ensign on May 24, 2026, 05:00:19 PMI also never had to sand any areas where signs got glued down on it.
Greg
Curious how you got the signs to lay flat.
Did you sand the signs thin enough so they easily followed the texture of the stucco?
Tom looks good to me.
Looks good Tom!
Didn't most of those old art deco type station have tinplate exteriors like the old Gulf stations?
Philip
Looks good Tom...I stuccoed first and gently scraped off at the sign locations
terry
Quote from: Rick on May 25, 2026, 07:18:49 AMQuote from: Ensign on May 24, 2026, 05:00:19 PMI also never had to sand any areas where signs got glued down on it.
Greg
Hi Rick, as I remember the signs were printed on slightly thicker paper, so to me they were like scale wooden signs.
So I just glued them onto the stucco as such.
Greg
Curious how you got the signs to lay flat.
Did you sand the signs thin enough so they easily followed the texture of the stucco?
Here's a photo showing some of those signs and how they looked on my stucco.
971157d5da94632a942d866b7387dc6f.jpg
Greg
Quote from: Rick on May 24, 2026, 03:40:45 PMI think the stucco looks good.
I also think you can scrape some of it off where the signs go.
Rick,
Thanks for stopping by, much appreciated. The paper signs are 2-3 ply so I'm sure they will fit on the walls just fine.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on May 24, 2026, 03:48:18 PMQuote from: Rick on May 24, 2026, 03:40:45 PMI think the stucco looks good.
I also think you can scrape some of it off where the signs go.
Suggest doing a test strip with the stucco. Then you can test scraping -or- sanding the stucco flat on the test, before working on the model.
dave
Dave,
After my initial concern about the signs, I don't think the stucco will be an issue. If by chance it is, I'll let everyone know.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on May 24, 2026, 04:17:58 PMI think it looks very smooth which is a look I like.
Butty Curt,
Yea, now that it has been a couple of days, I see that it is very subtle and will be just fine.
Tom
Quote from: Ensign on May 24, 2026, 05:00:19 PMTom, I think your stucco looks exactly how it should look.
I never had to repaint my Horwood's after applying my stucco.
I also never had to sand any areas where signs got glued down on it.
Keep up the great work!
Greg
Greg,
Thanks for the input on your build. I agree with all you've said. Now that I've had time to look at the stucco, as I mentioned above, it will be just fine.
Not sure about your build, but the Durham's putty in my kit is a tan/pale yellow color. Even mixing it with the Reefer White and applying it as Dario suggested, mine is definitely not white. You can see this in my build photos. I will still need to spray it white.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on May 24, 2026, 11:25:27 PMTom you get my approval it's looks just fine!
Jerry
Jerry,
Thank you my friend for the support.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on May 25, 2026, 08:02:36 AMTom looks good to me.
Larry,
Thank you, it does to me now that I've let a few days pass.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on May 25, 2026, 10:12:08 AMLooks good Tom!
Didn't most of those old art deco type station have tinplate exteriors like the old Gulf stations?
Philip
Philip,
Thank you. Yes, they did. The signs will be just fine without having to sand/scrap any excess stucco.
Tom
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on May 25, 2026, 10:32:34 AMLooks good Tom...I stuccoed first and gently scraped off at the sign locations
terry
Terry,
Thank you as well my friend. I've applied such a light coat of stucco, enough to see, that I'm confident I won't need to make any adjustments.
Tom
I finished the stucco on the show room building. I'll let the paint cure for several days and then spray it white.
I didn't apply stucco to the Keystone.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260526142149-57606311.jpeg)
Here is another photo of Greg's build and a great shot of the signs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-260526144527-576082377.jpeg)
Howdy Tom,
The stucco looks perfect. Your technique yielded an excellent finish. Nice work as usual.
Have fun,
mike
Wow! That looks great! 👍
Beautiful work, Tom.
Tom your stucco work is top notch and should look great when finished.
Quote from: friscomike on May 27, 2026, 12:09:07 AMHowdy Tom,
The stucco looks perfect. Your technique yielded an excellent finish. Nice work as usual.
Have fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
Thank you for t he nice compliment, much appreciated.
Tom
Quote from: ReadingBob on May 27, 2026, 07:58:17 PMWow! That looks great! 👍
Butty Bob,
Thanks my friend. It was not as messy as I thought it to be.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on May 28, 2026, 12:56:25 PMTom your stucco work is top notch and should look great when finished.
Larry,
Thank you also. It turned out better than I thought.
Tom
The next photo shows the top of the left service building. After the layers of wall trim were added, it left several layers of boards exposed. These areas could be filled with putty, but I had another method in mind when the trim was added.
I planned to add a top plate to the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040626152834-576441252.jpeg)
The thickest part of the walls is a scale 12" thick at the top. I took a HO scale 2X12 and used this as the top plate.
I wanted to get a smooth look to the top plate and this is how I did it.
I used the floor as a pattern and placed the 2x12 under the short section of the floor. This also corresponds with the angle at the top of the wall. I used the metal square to ensure the correct angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040626152834-576452297.jpeg)
This next photo shows the short top plate.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040626152834-576462015.jpeg)
In order to get the next angle cut correctly, I simply placed the short piece on top of another 2X12 and made that cut.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040626152834-57647829.jpeg)
Now I have the short piece and a longer one.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040626152834-57647829.jpeg)
I wanted the top of the walls even and flat in order to get a good fit for the top plates.
I used the fine side of a sanding stick and lightly sanded to top of the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040626152921-57650225.jpeg)
I then glued the short top plate in place and let dry.
You can also see how I planned to fit the longer top plate to the shorter one.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040626152921-576491909.jpeg)
Here is a bird's eye look at the first four top plates glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040626152921-57651392.jpeg)
Be back later. Pam's dinner bell is ringing. ;D
You can see in the next photo how the 2X12 hangs over the front wall. This is where the canopy fits up against this portion of the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040626152921-576522148.jpeg)
The canopy fits snugly against this section and the 2X12 covers the top rear wall section of the canopy.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040626152921-576532066.jpeg)
Done for today.
Very nicely done Tom.
Tom, it looks good and like the way you did it.
Tom your imagineering skills are great. If there's a good way to fix something you seem to find it; very well done. How was dinner? Like my grandfather used to say "Call me anything you want, just don't call me late for dinner".
Tom a really great job. And another nice way to fix something.
Jerry
The bump out looks great Tom!
Very carefully and neatly done.
Tom, with your care and attention to details, it all seems to be coming together extremely well!
Greg
Quote from: Rick on June 04, 2026, 06:40:40 PMTom, it looks good and like the way you did it.
Rick,
Thank you as well for the comment, much appreciated.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on June 04, 2026, 08:46:28 PMTom your imagineering skills are great. If there's a good way to fix something you seem to find it; very well done. How was dinner? Like my grandfather used to say "Call me anything you want, just don't call me late for dinner".
Larry,
Thank you for the kind and generous compliment.
Dinner was great. Pam surprised me with her meat loaf, candy yams, and creamed corn. Confetti cake for desert. Yummy!
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on June 04, 2026, 09:35:36 PMTom a really great job. And another nice way to fix something.
Jerry
Jerry,
I certainly appreciate your comments, support on my builds and following along on this journey.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on June 04, 2026, 10:35:17 PMThe bump out looks great Tom!
Philip,
Thank you as well.
Tom
Quote from: Michael Hohn on June 05, 2026, 12:38:28 PMVery carefully and neatly done.
Mike,
Thank you for the comment as well.
Tom
Quote from: Ensign on June 05, 2026, 03:59:22 PMTom, with you care and attention to details, it all seems to be coming together extremely well!
Greg
Greg,
Since you have built this kit, I very much appreciate your comments. I'm very pleased with the progress and how it is truning out.
Tom
When the left and middle buildings are set in place, next to each other, the two walls become one common wall.
A top plate was needed to be cut for this area also. The pencil points to the two walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060626175048-576661081.jpeg)
I added the top plate to the middle building wall. You can see how the plate is out over the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060626173632-57655757.jpeg)
In the next photo, you can see how this top board covers both walls when pushed together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060626173632-57657211.jpeg)
By adding a top board to the rear also gives the walls some relief as opposed to a stark wall with no trim.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060626173632-57656605.jpeg)
Back in a few, time for a Diet Pepsi.
Great job with the stucco, coping and all the little details, well done Tom..... 8)
The last portion of the two buildings with top plates is the front canopy walls.
The top boards on the rest of the two buildings, were pretty much a no brainer as far as cutting the angles. Mostly they were at 90 degrees with the two front angled walls at close to 33 1/3 degrees.
I decided to add a little challenge for me by cutting these three boards at 45 degrees.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060626173632-576585.jpeg)
I cut the two side boards at 45 degrees. I used the inside corner of the inside wall on the canopy as the starting point for the cut. I then glued these two boards in place making sure they were both flush with the wall on the inside.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060626173716-576592033.jpeg)
I then cut the front board at 45 degrees on each end. I cut this one a little bit longer and shaved off a little at a time until I had a perfect fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060626173717-5766038.jpeg)
Quote from: GPdemayo on June 06, 2026, 05:58:38 PMGreat job with the stucco, coping and all the little details, well done Tom..... 8)
Butty Greg,
Thank you very much my friend.
Tom
I added the top plates to the two buildings for three specific reasons.
1. It gives the buildings a more professional and finished appearance.
2. It gives the buildings my own spin on how I want them to look.
3. Since I'm just a sub roof for the light wiring and a top roof, the top boards also add just a little more wall height to the walls.
I'm certainly not saying the kit version is wrong, far from that. I just don't have the ability to build a kit exactly per the instructions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060626173717-576611380.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060626173717-57662223.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060626173717-57663562.jpeg)
All roof panels still fit as they did prior to the top plate additions. Oops, forgot the canopy roof. 8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060626173752-57665685.jpeg)
Done for today.
Great job Tom.
Fantastic work Tom!!!
Looking stupendish, Tom...that may not even be a word...looking great, Tom
terry
A perfect fir on everything. Taking your time sures pays off. Wonderful job Tom.
Jerry
Quote from: Larry C on June 06, 2026, 08:02:10 PMFantastic work Tom!!!
Larry,
Your kind comment is appreciated.
Tom
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on June 07, 2026, 08:58:17 AMLooking stupendish, Tom...that may not even be a word...looking great, Tom
terry
Butty Terry,
Stupendous is the word you are looking for, but stupendish works for me as well. Let's just say it is a patois between us.
Thanks for the generous compliment.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on June 07, 2026, 10:25:10 AMA perfect fir on everything. Taking your time sures pays off. Wonderful job Tom.
Jerry
Jerry,
Thanks my friend. Yes, patience/taking my time is something I have when building kits.
Tom
When you restarted this build thread about a week ago, it reminded me how much I -missed- seeing your progress and reading about your construction techniques and problem solving. These extensive build threads are the true value of this forum!
dave
Quote from: deemery on June 07, 2026, 02:04:30 PMWhen you restarted this build thread about a week ago, it reminded me how much I -missed- seeing your progress and reading about your construction techniques and problem solving. These extensive build threads are the true value of this forum!
dave
Dave,
Thank you very much for the kind compliment. I'm sort of guilty as charged.
When I first joined Jimmy D's forum in December 2013, I was asked/advised to answer each person's post to my threads and to be as specific as possible when describing my builds. We all love photos and I do post hundreds of photos in my larger build treads.
It is a bit time consuming, but to me the narrative and photos are all part of the process. I enjoy sharing my techniques and problem solving. Now, it all second nature to me and a habit as well.
A past forum member, who, by the way is no longer on this forum, said I posted to many photos. His comment just inspired me to post more photos.
Anyway, thank you again for the comment Dave.
Tom
I added the top plate boards to the showroom building this afternoon.
I started with the two walls that meet at an odd angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070626162045-57667421.jpeg)
It appears that two different angles will need to be cut on the end to fit properly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070626162046-57668904.jpeg)
Hocus Pocus and it is done. ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070626162046-57669400.jpeg)
The rest of the top plates were just cut and glue in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-070626162046-576701845.jpeg)
Now I can spray paint the three building an exterior white.
Next, I need to build the interior details.
Done for today.
Tom, always a pleasure seeing your progress and engineering.
Post as many photos as you like. ;D
Tom,
The first photo in your latest post is a work of art.
Mike
Howdy Tom,
Just wow! It is looking terrific, as usual.
HAve fun,
mike
Very precise work Tom.
Dang Tom. There is so much work to this build. You'll be on page 50 before it's finished. Thanks again for all the updates and photos. Mark
Tom,
As always, your builds are full of real time solutions. It has always been
a joy to follow your threads. I looked a few pages back and saw cutting, fitting,
odd angles, all of which required engineering, and you accomplished each one perfectly.
Rich
Quote from: Rick on June 07, 2026, 05:38:21 PMTom, always a pleasure seeing your progress and engineering.
Post as many photos as you like. ;D
Rick,
Thanks very much for the comment and for following along.
Tom
Quote from: Michael Hohn on June 08, 2026, 08:21:28 PMTom,
The first photo in your latest post is a work of art.
Mike
Mike,
Thank you, much appreciated. It seems like there is many opportunities in this build to create a work of art.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on June 08, 2026, 09:22:55 PMHowdy Tom,
Just wow! It is looking terrific, as usual.
HAve fun,
mike
Mike, Howdy,
You kind comment is appreciated. Thank you.
Tom
Quote from: craftsmankits on June 09, 2026, 06:46:05 PMDang Tom. There is so much work to this build. You'll be on page 50 before it's finished. Thanks again for all the updates and photos. Mark
Mark,
Thanks and I agree, there is much work in this one. I'm guessing I will be close to 50+ when finished.
Tom
Quote from: Pennman on June 10, 2026, 10:26:38 AMTom,
As always, your builds are full of real time solutions. It has always been
a joy to follow your threads. I looked a few pages back and saw cutting, fitting,
odd angles, all of which required engineering, and you accomplished each one perfectly.
Rich
Rich,
I thank you sir for the very generous and kind compliment on this build. It seems like every kit or build requires some form of adjustments in cuts and angles.
Tom
I was finally able to get back to this one. Although I have to admit the break was nice for a change.
After adding all the top plates, I sprayed all three structures (not shown) with the Tamiya Insignia White. This was necessary to cover the yellow hue of the Durham's Water Putty stucco.
These three will be put aside for now while I build some sub assemblies.
I need to build four sky lights.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190626151850-576792429.jpeg)
I'll also need to build the Goodyear billboard sign.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190626151850-57680469.jpeg)
The billboard sign brackets are very fragile. They seems to say, "Don't look at me, I'll break"
Well, I must have looked as one did in fact break when I picked it up.
I'll make this repair using an HO scale 1X4.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190626151850-57681537.jpeg)
I applied the first coat of Tamiya Lacquer Yellow to the Goodyear sign. The lacquer is very thin and the first coat soaked into the wood. It will take a second coat. I'll add the second coat once this dries and cures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190626151850-57682313.jpeg)
I also painted the billboard frame with Tamiya Lacquer Flat Blue. I'll finish the billboard brackets tomorrow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190626151850-576832445.jpeg)
Done for today.
Glad to see you back at it (and that the excess water didn't do any lasting harm to your train room....)
dave
Tom always good to see you posting on this project.
Glad the room is drying out.
Jerry
Great to see you at it again. Those pieces look beyond fragile but I know you'll do another perfect job.
Tom, nice to see you back making progress on this project.
That sign is going to look great.
Tom,
Nice to see you at the bench again.
I see you had a typical "another problem, another solution" with the sign. I'm pretty sure that once the repair is done, you would never know it was broken. with the colours you have chosen, the sign will look great when completed.
Model on, Tom & glad your on high ground again!
Tom looks like another winner with the sign.
Quote from: deemery on June 19, 2026, 05:14:46 PMGlad to see you back at it (and that the excess water didn't do any lasting harm to your train room....)
dave
Dave,
Thanks very much for the comment. The excess water wet about two dozen carpet tiles and the indoor/outdoor under carpet. The dehumidifier dried it all out in a few days. All is well now.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on June 19, 2026, 11:43:01 PMTom always good to see you posting on this project.
Glad the room is drying out.
Jerry
Jerry,
Happy to be back in th4e saddle, for now anyway!
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on June 20, 2026, 06:50:32 AMGreat to see you at it again. Those pieces look beyond fragile but I know you'll do another perfect job.
Curt,
The pieces were very fragile, but very well done as far as the laser cutting.
Tom
Quote from: Rick on June 20, 2026, 06:50:48 AMTom, nice to see you back making progress on this project.
That sign is going to look great.
Rick,
I'm back but the progress is very slow for now.
I agree, the sign will be a focal point in the scene.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on June 20, 2026, 07:40:44 AMTom,
Nice to see you at the bench again.
I see you had a typical "another problem, another solution" with the sign. I'm pretty sure that once the repair is done, you would never know it was broken. with the colours you have chosen, the sign will look great when completed.
Ron,
Thanks very much. The repair was a bit tricksie as shown below, but it did get fixed.
Tom
Quote from: Philip on June 20, 2026, 08:16:10 AMModel on, Tom & glad your on high ground again!
Philip,
Yepper, high ground is always a good psition.
Tom
Quote from: Larry C on June 22, 2026, 05:00:24 PMTom looks like another winner with the sign.
Larry,
Thanks for the kind comment on the sign. I believe it will be a "looker" when finished.
Tom
Well, I made the one repair and then realized I glued the new brace at the wrong angle.
Repair on the left.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030726131322-576842238.jpeg)
When attempting to remove the repaired brace, the outside brace broke. Dang it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030726131322-576882418.jpeg)
Repair made on this as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030726131322-576891495.jpeg)
The six billboard braces were painted with the dark blue. The letters were removed from the carrier as shown.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030726131322-576902392.jpeg)
When gluing the letters to the billboard, I'll use the Good Year carrier sheet as a template.
I centered the carrier sheet over the billboard grid.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030726131322-576911502.jpeg)
I used painters tape to hold the two pieces together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030726131359-576921879.jpeg)
The excess tape were removed using a # 11 blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030726131359-576931195.jpeg)
I reversed wrapped painter's tape to a wood stir stick. The yellow letters were stuck to the tape.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030726131359-5769491.jpeg)
I then sprayed the letters with a light coat of yellow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030726131359-576952286.jpeg)
Not shown, but when dry, I flipped the letters over and sprayed the backs. I made sure to cover the edges of the letters as well. When dry, I sprayed a flat finish on the letters to seal them.
Done for today.
Retro signs are so cool! Nice work!
Tom...thankfully you've taken the lead on the Goodyear sign...mine will be coming up shortly.
Great job of modeling
terry
Looks very good Tom. I would be very concerned about taking the tape off.
Good to see you back at this. The idea is to use the sprue to position the letters on the framing? That would work well.
dave
Tom, I think the method you're using is going to work well.
I don't think removing the tape will be an issue.
That tape isn't that sticky and I know you'll be careful.
Looks good, Tom
Howdy Tom, nice work on the sign. It looks terrific. Have fun, mike
Quote from: Philip on July 03, 2026, 01:49:00 PMRetro signs are so cool! Nice work!
Philip,
Thank you, much appreciate the comment.
Tom
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on July 03, 2026, 02:32:30 PMTom...thankfully you've taken the lead on the Goodyear sign...mine will be coming up shortly.
Great job of modeling
terry
Butty Terry,
Thank you for the compliment on the sign. I didn't follow the instructions as I had my own way of how I wanted to proceed.
Tom
Quote from: PRR Modeler on July 03, 2026, 02:44:55 PMLooks very good Tom. I would be very concerned about taking the tape off.
Curt Butty,
Thanks for the kind comment. The tape wasn't an issue. I'll explain in today's update.
Tom
Quote from: deemery on July 03, 2026, 04:12:18 PMGood to see you back at this. The idea is to use the sprue to position the letters on the framing? That would work well.
dave
Dave,
Nice to be back. It was an unforced small absence. Yes, you are correct, the letter carrier sheet is to correctly position the letters on the billboard frame.
Tom
Tom,
I see you came back swinging. ;D
The Goodyear sign will look great when it is finished.
Quote from: Rick on July 03, 2026, 04:15:06 PMTom, I think the method you're using is going to work well.
I don't think removing the tape will be an issue.
That tape isn't that sticky and I know you'll be careful.
Rick,
You are correct on all three of your comments. The method did work well, the tape wasn't an issue and I was very careful.
Tom
Quote from: jbvb on July 04, 2026, 07:22:17 AMLooks good, Tom
James,
Thanks very much for the compliment.
Tom
Quote from: friscomike on July 04, 2026, 01:30:40 PMHowdy Tom, nice work on the sign. It looks terrific. Have fun, mike
Mike, Howdy,
I appreciate3 the comment, thank you. I'm still having fun.
Tom
Quote from: elwoodblues on July 05, 2026, 12:09:34 PMTom,
I see you came back swinging. ;D
The Goodyear sign will look great when it is finished.
Ron,
Yes, I'm back in the saddle tor now. Thanks for the comment my friend.
Tom
When the yellow paint on the letters was dry, I carefully removed them one at a time.
I then dry fitted them in the carrier sheet. I wanted to make sure they fit into the spaces smoothly. I did have to lightly sand a few edges of the letters to remove some excess yellow paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050726132235-576992067.jpeg)
I then glued the letters on the billboard frame being careful not to get glue on the carrier sides.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050726132235-577001957.jpeg)
I then turned the letters over (face down) and added weights to hold it all flat until the glue thoroughly dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050726132235-577012025.jpeg)
After two hours I removed the weights and carefully peeled off the painter's tape.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050726132236-577021868.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050726132236-57703428.jpeg)
I then very carefully removed the letter carrier sheet from the billboard frame and letters.
Thankfully, my patience and care proved to be a blessing. No letters were broken in the process.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050726132318-577042360.jpeg)
Back in a few, Diet Pepsi time.
Gluing the billboard brackets to the frame was a bit "tricksie".
I didn't want to chance gluing them on crooked so here is what I did to get them all aligned and square to the frame.
I pulled out my desk drawer and placed an aluminum plate over the drawer sides. This gave me a flat surface and an edge to allow the brackets to be glued on at 90 degrees to the frame.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050726132318-57705290.jpeg)
Here is the result, all are glued in place and square as well.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050726132318-577061455.jpeg)
I then glued on horizontal braces to the rear of the brackets. These 2X4s were unpainted when I glued them in place.
I didn't want to waste the blue spray paint by spraying each 2X4. And, once glued to the rear, it obviously wasn't going to work by spray painting them on the rear. I didn't want to get blue spray paint on the yellow letters.
I've shown this method in the past, but I'll go over it again here. I sprayed the blue on a piece of cardboard.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050726132401-577121515.jpeg)
I then used a soft brush and hand painted the horizontal braces.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050726132318-57707168.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050726132318-577081114.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050726132401-57709220.jpeg)
A test fit and look see on the showroom roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050726132401-577101187.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050726132401-577112223.jpeg)
I added the front horizontal braces and the billboard walkway. I painted them in the same manner and used the same method as described above.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050726132401-57713737.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050726132441-577141504.jpeg)
The billboard is now complete with the exception of light weathering.
One thing I'd like to mention here on an observation of the spray painting vs brushing on the spray paint.
When I sprayed the Tamiya Blue on the brackets and frame, the finish was a matte of satin finish look.
When I sprayed the blue on the cardboard and used a brush to apply the blue, it dried in a gloss finish.
The sign was a combination of matte and gloss and was most definitely noticeable.
To show you the difference, I taped half of the dry paint spot with painter's tape. I then sprayed on the flat finish and let it dry.
The tape was removed and you can see the difference.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050726132441-577151005.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050726132441-57716692.jpeg)
I sprayed the entire Good Year sign with the flat.
Done for today.
Great results! On assembling the sign to the brackets, I wonder if it would have been better to glue the brackets, rear horizontal braces, and walkway together first, and then mounting the sign to the bracket assembly.
But hey, your way worked just fine!
About 15 years ago, I said "One thing that distinguishes well designed kits is the best include assembly jigs." I bet they could have cut a jig to assemble the brackets in alignment (horizontally) out of some scrap wood. 2 of those would have substantially simplified assembly, I think.
dave
Tom a terrific job on that sign.
And a great how to do it the right way.
Jerry
Outstanding job on the sign Tom.
I like the sign! Knowing where this is going it's going it'll be a real eye catcher. ;D
Bravo!
Tom just a well thought out and fantastic job on the sign!!!
Neat job on the sign Tom..... 8)
Sign looks terrific, Tom.
Cheers, Mark.
I enjoyed watching the sign come together. Will it be lit at some point in the project?
One of the nicest of my automobile related 'treasures' is a large porcelain Goodyear sign I literally stumbled upon behind a barn while waiting for my wife at a estate pre-sale for a friend's father. The owner said, take it.
Goodyear adv holds up well over the years.
Your Horwoods in progressing nicely, Tom
I remember some of the LEDs that Bill Sartore sells might make good spotlights if you choose to light the sign and don't have another plan in mind....
dave
Tom, your "Goodyear" sign and method of placing it all worked out perfectly!
Dave, Tom purchased the lighting kit that goes with the Horwood's kit, from "Ngineering"
It also includes the lighting for the Goodyear sign.
Tom, I hope you don't mind me posting how my sign came out looking, and showing Dave how your lights will look on your sign when you get yours built and installed.
P1010145.jpg
Greg
Greg, thanks for the photo. That will look very cool!
dave