The Modeler's Forum

My attempt at scratch building the old builds of Masterpiece Models and Stoney Creek Designs.
It looks like Stoney Creek borrowed Thomas Yorke's original design.

I'm currently working on the drawings. Let me know if these PDF are viewable.
Philip

I'm no expert, but that basic architecture doesn't look very "blacksmithy" to me.  ("Free Outhouse" - now there's an incentive you don't see every day!)  

Think about where the actual forge would be in this structure.  That includes the fire pit, the bellows and the smokestack.  The full-length clerestory makes sense if the structure is a single story, but the dormers wouldn't be much use and would be expensive to build  

At least the Stoney Creek structure sits directly on the ground, the Yorke design on piles would imply a lot more work for the forge and for the anvils, etc.  

By the way, Sierra West sells a -great- 3D printed blacksmith set, I think it's available in both O and HO.  I used parts of the HO set for my machine shop.  

dave

Modern "internet search for what AI feels like showing us" found only this photo, though I'm sure there are thousands on photo sites:

https://www.parks.ca.gov/pages/491/images/Railtown%203-1-23%20(Merritt)%20(23).JPG

The building is at ground level, though there might have been a slightly-sunken loading area on the RH side.  The prototype's big dormers and gable window are clearly there for interior lighting.

Dave, I can tell you any extra outhouses in a kit helps. Especially the 2 story ones :o 

And here I am thinking about placing it on stilts. I can see where addition pilings and a joisted floor would be essential. Gads! More work!

I'm looking at what I have so far and the framing isn't to my liking yet. I have the non gabled walls laid out wrong. They are off by 12". Easy enough fix (I think) I may balloon frame the gabled ends

Thanks for the photo James. I agree the dormers were for natural light. Was this the prototype Tom Yorke based his kit on?

Thanks for the comments as I gather information!
Philip

 

Of course, the facts supersede opinions.  And yeah, it looks like that Jamestown blacksmith shop was the inspiration.  The dormers there are pretty big, and they're probably 'strategically located' as far as the shop layout is located.  The far one is located directly over a wall window, letting in a lot of light in that part of the building.   Video of that area here, starting at the 8 minute mark.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3pa0LBQomc

dave

Quote from: Philip on May 30, 2026, 11:11:00 AMThanks for the photo James. I agree the dormers were for natural light. Was this the prototype Tom Yorke based his kit on? 

I just fed what Mr. Yorke put on the cover of the box to Goog. My only visit to the general area was driving from San Jose to Yosemite via Merced.

Quote from: jbvb on May 30, 2026, 01:26:58 PM

Quote from: Philip on May 30, 2026, 11:11:00 AMThanks for the photo James. I agree the dormers were for natural light. Was this the prototype Tom Yorke based his kit on?

I just fed what Mr. Yorke put on the cover of the box to Goog. My only visit to the general area was driving from San Jose to Yosemite via Merced.

 8)

The late Don Ball and I kicked around the idea of a '19th century modelers meet' in the general vicinity of Jamestown.  We figured we could get may 10-20 people signed up, enough to justify some special tours, etc beween the California RR Museum and the Sierra RR.  sigh....

dave

Quote from: deemery on May 30, 2026, 11:17:50 AMOf course, the facts supersede opinions.  And yeah, it looks like that Jamestown blacksmith shop was the inspiration.  The dormers there are pretty big, and they're probably 'strategically located' as far as the shop layout is located.  The far one is located directly over a wall window, letting in a lot of light in that part of the building.   Video of that area here, starting at the 8 minute mark.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3pa0LBQomc

dave

Quote from: deemery on May 30, 2026, 11:17:50 AMOf course, the facts supersede opinions.  And yeah, it looks like that Jamestown blacksmith shop was the inspiration.  The dormers there are pretty big, and they're probably 'strategically located' as far as the shop layout is located.  The far one is located directly over a wall window, letting in a lot of light in that part of the building.   Video of that area here, starting at the 8 minute mark.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3pa0LBQomc

dave

Thanks for the link Dave!

Philip someone mentioned about SW's blacksmith kit. I bought one quite awhile ago and it went together well, but a little fragile, and you can't beat the detail. It comes in a small or larger version; I bought the larger one.

Larry,
I actually have all the forge details for a blacksmith kit from my old kits. Some were from Bill at Western scale models and Aspen Models. Still have a stash of castings.
thanks for looking in!

Philip
 

The HO scale Sierra West kit came with an amazing amount of tiny tools, which matches the pictures I've seen of blacksmith shops.  Painting them without losing them was a bit of a challenge.

dave

Quote from: Philip on May 31, 2026, 10:02:55 AMLarry,
I actually have all the forge details for a blacksmith kit from my old kits. Some were from Bill at Western scale models and Aspen Models. Still have a stash of castings.
thanks for looking in!

Philip

Looks like you're all set if you have all the details. Looking forward to your build.

Here is a old photo of the open air shop.

BS1.jpg

Better Shot

2013125182856_blacsmith.jpg

That's a great scene Philip.

Quote from: PRR Modeler on May 31, 2026, 06:11:57 PMThat's a great scene Philip.

Thanks Curt!

That was a nice looking scene. Once you put all that in a building then the Smithy won't get wet if it rains. Will the new build be going on your layout?

Quote from: Larry C on June 01, 2026, 07:47:35 AMThat was a nice looking scene. Once you put all that in a building then the Smithy won't get wet if it rains. Will the new build be going on your layout?
[/quote

LOL Thanks Larry. I think so. In the spot that was once in the elements. Movin on up!

Philip

Howdy Philip,

The blacksmith shop looks like a lot of fun to design and build. Good luck.  The open-air shop is excellent scene.  Well done.

Have fun,
mike

Have you started it yet???  ;D

Jerry 

Quote from: friscomike on June 01, 2026, 09:22:14 AMHowdy Philip,

The blacksmith shop looks like a lot of fun to design and build. Good luck.  The open-air shop is excellent scene.  Well done.

Have fun,
mike

Thank Mike!

Quote from: Jerry on June 01, 2026, 10:35:56 AMHave you started it yet???  ;D

Jerry

Oh man I have a paper plan of 4 walls. Does that count? ;)
I guess NO. ;D  I need you to build me some bad ass windows?

Jerry said,

It

 ;D 

You're a fine modeler Phillip, that looks fantastic... :o  :o  :o ....

KYLE CREEL
DORRE & GAPHETID Ry. Co.

Hey there Phillip, It ... looks swell !  ;D

Rich

Thanks Kyle!

Rich, It will be sweller when I get started! :)  Thanks for the plans!

Here's the type of windows you need to use.
The panes at the top are stationery and the 6 on the bottom swing out.

Quote from: Jerry on June 05, 2026, 10:23:58 PMHere's the type of windows you need to use.
The panes at the top are stationery and the 6 on the bottom swing out.

Indeed that would let the light and air in! Are those laser cut?

Thanks for sharing!

Philip

Philip I believe that Tichy has them.

Quote from: PRR Modeler on June 06, 2026, 07:01:22 AMPhilip I believe that Tichy has them.

Quote from: PRR Modeler on June 06, 2026, 07:01:22 AMPhilip I believe that Tichy has them.

TY

Update:

This is perhaps the most boring thread ever.

I'm still gathering info on my blacksmith shop attempt. I ordered a lil Chopper from NWSL. Chris Bohn got back with me on the shingles @ 15 bucks a sheet for cherry with 3m backing. They are fantastic shingles other than hand cut ones I also make. Chris had a run of O scale kits under Full Circle Models and he sold 90% of the business to Foggy Mountain Models.

One day soon I'll start. Looks like I'll be 3dp the windows and scratch building the doors. I want to keep the sizing accurate to what the manufacturer had in the kits.

Philip

Quote from: Philip on June 06, 2026, 07:34:52 AM

Quote from: PRR Modeler on June 06, 2026, 07:01:22 AMPhilip I believe that Tichy has them.

Quote from: PRR Modeler on June 06, 2026, 07:01:22 AMPhilip I believe that Tichy has them.

TY

I believe your wrong!  :)
I had them made laser cut Rail Scale Models.
Stephen did a hell of job making them for me.

Jerry

Actually, I think it's been interesting to consider what constitutes an 'iconic' Blacksmith Shop, as well as to discuss what's available to model one. 

dave

I have 3 walls framed. Sorry for the picture quality. They are sitting on a glass plate.
20260615_084758.jpg

20260615_084955.jpg

One to go.

20260615_084622.jpg

Philip

Howdy Philip, nice work framing the shop. What siding will you use?  Have fun, mike

Over the week-end I experimented with different approaches to making the framing true and square.

I'm use Aleene's tacky glue in a syringe.

I tried the taping wax paper backer over the drawing and you can't see where to exactly place the studs. The wax paper is very thick.

I tried packaging tape directly on the drawing as a backer and the studs just slide around.

I set the top plate first with a tiny drop of glue every other stud directly to the paper followed by gluing all the studs directly to the paper. I use a couple of tiny dots to keep the tiny stud in position after setting the top plate, then I eyeball the studs to make sure they are not twisted like Home Depot lumber. :o

Once everything is buttoned up and finished I carefully remove the backing paper plans. I usually have 200 or more areas where the paper stuck to the framing wood. I have found a warm dish rag will soften the blemishes and remove most of the excess glue and paper debris. I also use a toothpick and # 11 blade to remove the excess dry puddles of glue. The process takes at least a half hour of mind numbing work.

With that said, has anyone ever tried using onion paper or tracing paper over your plans?

Philip

   

Quote from: friscomike on June 15, 2026, 09:21:55 AMHowdy Philip, nice work framing the shop. What siding will you use?  Have fun, mike

Wood 1x8, 10's, 12's or whatever. I have a huge supply of coffee stirrers. Was looking at my scrap wood and I may have enough. Didn't order anything from NESL yet. I'm burning through 2x6 with the framing! Geeze!
Thanks for looking Mike!

The rafters have me worried. It may be a long row to hoe.

Philip

Nice way to start a Monday morning.  Philip in full swing!!
Looks great.

I just do the frame right to the paper.  It is a pain in the butt picking those little pieces of paper off the frame!!

Jerry

Philip awesome framing job.

Philip great job on the framing!!! I've always used Cut-Rite waxed paper and have good results with it. It does stick a little but nothing a sharp #11 doesn't cure. Keep going this is going to be a great build.

Quote from: Jerry on June 15, 2026, 10:02:31 AMNice way to start a Monday morning.  Philip in full swing!!
Looks great.

I just do the frame right to the paper.  It is a pain in the butt picking those little pieces of paper off the frame!!

Jerry

Thanks Jerry!

Not sure about full swing. Like a rusty old gate swing.. ;D
What glue do you use?
Philip

Quote from: PRR Modeler on June 15, 2026, 10:04:58 AMPhilip awesome framing job.

Thanks Curt! What are you working on?
Philip

Quote from: Philip on June 15, 2026, 10:13:20 AM

Quote from: Jerry on June 15, 2026, 10:02:31 AMNice way to start a Monday morning.  Philip in full swing!!
Looks great.

I just do the frame right to the paper.  It is a pain in the butt picking those little pieces of paper off the frame!!

Jerry

Thanks Jerry!

Not sure about full swing. Like a rusty old gate swing.. ;D
What glue do you use?
Philip

I use Titebond wood glue.

Jerry

Quote from: Larry C on June 15, 2026, 10:12:26 AMPhilip great job on the framing!!! I've always used Cut-Rite waxed paper and have good results with it. It does stick a little but nothing a sharp #11 doesn't cure. Keep going this is going to be a great build.

Thanks Larry! I did notice when using packing tape it made the glue crystal clear blobs..
I might try wax paper again.
Philip

Quote from: Jerry on June 15, 2026, 10:15:46 AM

Quote from: Philip on June 15, 2026, 10:13:20 AM

Quote from: Jerry on June 15, 2026, 10:02:31 AMNice way to start a Monday morning.  Philip in full swing!!
Looks great.

I just do the frame right to the paper.  It is a pain in the butt picking those little pieces of paper off the frame!!

Jerry

I can't get it to bond fast enough. Lots of people swear by it. What is the secret?

Larry, what glue do you use?
Philip

Thanks Jerry!

Not sure about full swing. Like a rusty old gate swing.. ;D
What glue do you use?
Philip

I use Titebond wood glue.

Jerry

Some clearer wall images. More clean up needed. Digital camera on duty.... 

blacks4.jpgblacks3.jpgblacks2.jpgblacks1.jpg

Philip

Philip,

I agree with the other folks here, about the framing, it's excellent!
My wife makes hand made cards, and has used parchment paper. Glue doesn't stick to it.
And I don't think your wood would slide around on its surface. Try it to see what
you think. I have yet to try it myself, so go lightly with it if you do.
A great mock-up would have been to use the paper plans, glued together..  ;D
rather than taking the time to construct all of that nice wood framing. ha!

Rich

Philip to answer your question, I use Elmers white glue and apply a tiny bit on each end on the outside frame piece with a toothpick. After the perimeter dries all the interior framing gets glued to that. This avoids a lot of glue marks on the framing. Hope that made sense.

Quote from: Pennman on June 15, 2026, 10:44:42 AMPhilip,

I agree with the other folks here, about the framing, it's excellent!
My wife makes hand made cards, and has used parchment paper. Glue doesn't stick to it.
And I don't think your wood would slide around on its surface. Try it to see what
you think. I have yet to try it myself, so go lightly with it if you do.
A great mock-up would have been to use the paper plans, glued together..  ;D
rather than taking the time to construct all of that nice wood framing. ha!

Rich

Thanks Rich! I altered the plans you shared a bit. I will give it a try! We use it all the time. I also think the used parchment from the oven would make perfect tattered and stained roll curtains. Olive oil is a perfect water stain after cooking.

Philip

Quote from: Larry C on June 15, 2026, 10:58:15 AMPhilip to answer your question, I use Elmers white glue and apply a tiny bit on each end on the outside frame piece with a toothpick. After the perimeter dries all the interior framing gets glued to that. This avoids a lot of glue marks on the framing. Hope that made sense.

Perfect! Thanks!

Philip I'm currently building a SW Shipyard at Foss Landing. I have a thread under kit building but nothing to show at this point.

Speaking of glue, I use WS Foam Tack Glue for all wood gluing and have for years.

Quote from: PRR Modeler on June 15, 2026, 12:36:10 PMPhilip I'm currently building a SW Shipyard at Foss Landing. I have a thread under kit building but nothing to show at this point.

Speaking of glue, I use WS Foam Tack Glue for all wood gluing and have for years.

Cool, I'll check the thread soon. I never tried the WS glue. Is it white when wet?

Neat building! SW Foss Landing Link (https://www.sierrawestscalemodels.com/106a.html)

Philip white then clear.

Quote from: PRR Modeler on June 15, 2026, 06:33:43 PMPhilip white then clear.

Thanks!

Fourth wall is framed. Now to unstick the sticks after a overnight cure.

The gables are next. No plan yet.
Philip
20260615_204000.jpg20260615_204800.jpg

Dried quick. Dry fitting the walls. Now it is big!20260615_223628.jpg

Very nice job Philip.

Jerry

Philip, nice job on the framing and even has the Jerry Seal of Approval.

Philip fantastic framing job!!! and it looks to be good sized. I'm sure you've already considered this, and depending how much you are going to detail the inside, please don't make the same mistake I made on my first Shop. Add the details to the walls BEFORE you glue the walls together; makes life so much easier.

Quote from: Jerry on June 15, 2026, 11:27:51 PMVery nice job Philip.

Jerry

Thanks Jerry!

Quote from: Rick on June 16, 2026, 06:52:51 AMPhilip, nice job on the framing and even has the Jerry Seal of Approval.

I know! How did that happen? Thanks!  8)

Quote from: Larry C on June 16, 2026, 08:19:50 AMPhilip fantastic framing job!!! and it looks to be good sized. I'm sure you've already considered this, and depending how much you are going to detail the inside, please don't make the same mistake I made on my first Shop. Add the details to the walls BEFORE you glue the walls together; makes life so much easier.

Yes, I'm paying attention but sitting on the fence of why we do stuff and hide it with exterior boards and non removable roofs?

Thanks for looking!

Quote from: Philip on June 16, 2026, 09:05:57 AMYes, I'm paying attention but sitting on the fence of why we do stuff and hide it with exterior boards and non removable roofs?

Thanks for looking!

I'm with you on that front and that's what prompted me to add lights to my last Machine Shop so you could see the interior details. Not sure if you remember Karl Allison (UK Guy) from the old RR-Line Forum but he built a massive Machine Shop, 3 rails in I believe, and he went one step further and figured out a way to make the entire front wall removable (held in position with the details) so you could get a clear view of all his interior details.

Here's the link if you want to check out his techniques: https://sierrawestforum.discourse.group/t/the-loco-and-service-shops-scratchbuilt-in-o-scale-karl-a/265

You'll have to scroll down a ways to see his actual build; it's quite impressive.

Quote from: Larry C on June 16, 2026, 11:17:44 AM

Quote from: Philip on June 16, 2026, 09:05:57 AMYes, I'm paying attention but sitting on the fence of why we do stuff and hide it with exterior boards and non removable roofs?

Thanks for looking!

I'm with you on that front and that's what prompted me to add lights to my last Machine Shop so you could see the interior details. Not sure if you remember Karl Allison (UK Guy) from the old RR-Line Forum but he built a massive Machine Shop, 3 rails in I believe, and he went one step further and figured out a way to make the entire front wall removable (held in position with the details) so you could get a clear view of all his interior details.

Here's the link if you want to check out his techniques: https://sierrawestforum.discourse.group/t/the-loco-and-service-shops-scratchbuilt-in-o-scale-karl-a/265

You'll have to scroll down a ways to see his actual build; it's quite impressive.

Yes sir I just rejoined Brett's group last week. Karl (the Pro) is MIA, not active lately. Hope he is OK? A lot of modelers get hell bent and paint themselves in a corner. Remember the fellow from Morgan Hills Models? My good rule of thumb is if you don't have it in hand don't advertise. The most tiny malfunction can disable an entire operation. Off my podium now...  :-[

Philip
 

WoW ! Phillip. Your framing wants me to make something, soon!
Excellent work.

Rich

Quote from: Pennman on June 16, 2026, 11:58:02 AMWoW ! Phillip. Your framing wants me to make something, soon!
Excellent work.

Rich

Why thank you kind sir!
Philip

Yesterday I started the gable framing and realized I made a mistake. I intended to have the corner blocks and spacers on the end walls and somehow had drawn it up wrong and placed them on the front and rear wall. I redrew and knocked the end pieces apart on the 8 end wall and corrected my error. It would be rough figuring the rafters in the original configuration.

I also rough cut the lumber for the gables and stained them for todays activity.

 

Philip,

Your framing is excellent and extremely well done. Thanks for the photos and showing the dimensions.

I find it interesting how different modelers use different glues for their projects. All those mentioned are ones I've used in the past. However, I've been using Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue for the past 15+ years. Squirt some out on a small Masonite square, and use a toothpick to apply a tiny amount of glue to the wood. Never had a problem.

Tom

Well done Philip.

Jerry

Quote from: ACL1504 on June 18, 2026, 08:59:32 AMPhilip,

Your framing is excellent and extremely well done. Thanks for the photos and showing the dimensions.

I find it interesting how different modelers use different glues for their projects. All those mentioned are ones I've used in the past. However, I've been using Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue for the past 15+ years. Squirt some out on a small Masonite square, and use a toothpick to apply a tiny amount of glue to the wood. Never had a problem.

Tom

Thanks Tom. I used a toothpick for may years until I bought a gas station kit from Raggs to Riches and it included a syringe and a tiny tube that connects. I love it and have been through at least 8 or more of them. The down fall is leaving them unattended and the nozzle clogs after a couple of weeks of inactivity. 

Quote from: Jerry on June 18, 2026, 10:54:59 AMWell done Philip.

Jerry

Thanks, Its been a day or two since I stick framed anything. The mistake derailed me for a bit. oops!

Philip good catch on your mistake; good to see I'm not the only one who does a "Oops" from time to time.

Quote from: Larry C on June 18, 2026, 02:21:44 PMPhilip good catch on your mistake; good to see I'm not the only one who does a "Oops" from time to time.

I was always told if you never mess up you will never accomplish anything.

Here is the somewhat correct way I fixed the ends. If you refer back to the pictures I posted the mistake is visable. The long walls nail into the doubled up studs, not vice versa like I did in the get go.

I also have one gable finished and one left to build on the opposite end.

20260618_142107.jpg20260618_143034.jpg20260618_143200.jpg

Philip

The original laser cut shop had 22 trusses. Talk about the Mama of all kits. They were 12 on center! In real life imagine being up there wiggling in that tightness! I have cut this one down to 6 truses each, 48 OC as the picture illustrates.

20260618_150014.jpg

Thanks for looking and commenting!
Philip

Very clean and professionally done. Should there be cross bracing?

Quote from: PRR Modeler on June 18, 2026, 03:54:54 PMVery clean and professionally done. Should there be cross bracing?

In the wall on a diagonal? The original kit didn't have any that I'm aware of. Would be hard with all the window and door openings.

Thanks for taking a look Curt!
Philip

Excellent work on the gable end; it doesn't get any better than that. By the looks of your tape the amount of trusses looks about right; to me at least. Never understood why some modelers go so nuts on the number of trusses.

Philip, good catch on the oops and fixing it.
Gable end looks good.

That is a really nice looking able.  Very neatly done.

Jerry

Quote from: Larry C on June 19, 2026, 07:16:59 AMExcellent work on the gable end; it doesn't get any better than that. By the looks of your tape the amount of trusses looks about right; to me at least. Never understood why some modelers go so nuts on the number of trusses.

Thanks Larry! Take a look at the original truss design from Stoney Creek Designs #21.  :o Prototypical modeling seems to be falling on the way side as it increases labor, costs, and materials?
drone shot.jpg

Quote from: Rick on June 19, 2026, 08:09:34 AMPhilip, good catch on the oops and fixing it.
Gable end looks good.

Thanks Rick! Indeed an OS moment!

Howdy Philip, 

The framework is progressing nicely.  Good job.

Have fun,
mike

Quote from: friscomike on June 19, 2026, 10:10:55 AMHowdy Philip,

The framework is progressing nicely.  Good job.

Have fun,
mike

Thanks Mike!

Nice looking truss work.

Every model has some stuff it reflects, and some stuff it removes.  Interior framing is usually on the "if it can't be seen, it's not worth doing" side of practical modeling.  But that's what makes a model that does interior framing so special.

dave

Quote from: PRR Modeler on June 19, 2026, 10:34:19 AMNice looking truss work.

It is pretty amazing what Roger designed. 8)

Quote from: deemery on June 19, 2026, 10:35:49 AMEvery model has some stuff it reflects, and some stuff it removes.  Interior framing is usually on the "if it can't be seen, it's not worth doing" side of practical modeling.  But that's what makes a model that does interior framing so special.
dave

Indeed Dave. I stick with the 2 foot rule the majority of the time. Now a front and center model would be different, like your shop.
Philip

Phillip,
Excellent.
Wondering if you used "spacers" to keep things tight & square.
I always cut parts in groups if they're the same size/length.
Even with my furniture.
MJinTN

Quote from: labdad on June 19, 2026, 09:04:15 PMPhillip,
Excellent.
Wondering if you used "spacers" to keep things tight & square.
I always cut parts in groups if they're the same size/length.
Even with my furniture.
MJinTN

Back when I was production trimming I would gang cut window jamb extensions with pony clamp/stops set up. Same with the 45's except one at a time with a stop on the table. We would do chair rail and bed molding and I would use a magic block for the layout. 2" off the corner walls and 4" in between. All in the math. Same with foyer columns. Saved time. We could do a two story house in a day, including a prefabbed handrail. The expensive houses with the real deal trim would take 5 days.

No gauge blocks. I just work slow and get things close enough. All the horizontal nailers/fire breaks were slightly.
different length.

I'm using a homemade miter box because of all the odd angles. The roof is almost 9/12. It took several tries to get that angle...not sure what it even is. I wish I could birds mouth the rafters but the boards are so tiny.

Thanks man!
Philip 
 

To me the # of rafters shown is crazy unless you're "a rivet counter" and want to make the model prototypical. I'm more of a "practical modeler" where if it seems reasonable and looks good I'm going with it; but that's just me.

Quote from: Larry C on June 20, 2026, 07:10:36 AMTo me the # of rafters shown is crazy unless you're "a rivet counter" and want to make the model prototypical. I'm more of a "practical modeler" where if it seems reasonable and looks good I'm going with it; but that's just me.

The original model was unpractical. The rafters are spaced 12" apart. Hence 22 plus the 2 outrigger ends.  :o  Thanks for chiming in Larry. Good enough crowd ;D

My late brother the carpenter hated working on roofs.  It's either too hot or too cold, always dangerous and back-breaking.  One advantage of models is that it's much easier to work on the roofs than on the prototype...

dave

Quote from: deemery on June 20, 2026, 09:00:51 AMMy late brother the carpenter hated working on roofs.  It's either too hot or too cold, always dangerous and back-breaking.  One advantage of models is that it's much easier to work on the roofs than on the prototype...

dave

I framed for a few years. Feast or famine. So true Dave.

Philip,

As others before me have said, very nice work on the walls, and roof structure.
I think Roger may have used too many trusses too, but am wondering with 22, he might
have considered that many due to people lifting off the roof to see the interior details.
I think at least eight with the gable ends included would work just fine. I also believe whatever
number you decide to use would be sufficient for stability.

Rich

Quote from: Pennman on June 20, 2026, 11:11:00 PMPhilip,

As others before me have said, very nice work on the walls, and roof structure.
I think Roger may have used too many trusses too, but am wondering with 22, he might
have considered that many due to people lifting off the roof to see the interior details.
I think at least eight with the gable ends included would work just fine. I also believe whatever
number you decide to use would be sufficient for stability.
Rich

Seems plausibly. Maybe tornado proof?  ;D
I'm going with 6 total to hold it together plus the 2 faux outriggers on each end.

Philip

Six trusses still need gusset added. Slow she goes.20260622_211534.jpg20260622_212742.jpg

Philip

Nice work.  
And they all came out even!!!  :)

Jerry

Those are very well done.

Nice.
And I don't see any chocolate fingerprints.  ;)  ;D

Always that one one smart-ass in the group! 8)

Thanks fellows!

Philip

Quote from: Jerry on June 23, 2026, 12:11:55 AMNice work. 
And they all came out even!!!  :)

Jerry

I might 3dp some gussey's to look like steel. There are 22 per truss.

Philip excellent rafters; I should have had you make mine. Lol.

Howdy Philip, nice work on the trusses.  Looking forward to your build of gussets.  Have fun, mike

Nothing fancy. Curt mentioned wall bracing. I might add another interior wall to beef it up. Perhaps a small office.
Philip


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From my machine shop project, a small office both makes sense, and is a great detailing opportunity.

dave

I really like how you did the plates over joints.

Quote from: deemery on June 24, 2026, 11:05:36 AMFrom my machine shop project, a small office both makes sense, and is a great detailing opportunity.

dave

Yep! thanks for looking Dave!

Quote from: PRR Modeler on June 24, 2026, 11:39:55 AMI really like how you did the plates over joints.

Thanks! Thanks for mentioning cross bracing!

Nice job on those gussets!!

Jerry

That's a great detail adding those gussets.
Well done!

 :) Gus would be proud ! Thanks Jerry & Rick!

Messing with the roof now. Oh fiddley dee~

Philip

Those rafters are AWESOME!
The wood plates make it!

MJinTN

Quote from: labdad on June 24, 2026, 08:36:12 PMThose rafters are AWESOME!
The wood plates make it!

MJinTN

 8)  Thanks! I cut a ton of them and wanted them a skoch longer. I said the heck with it. Nail it!

Philip

Terrific!

Cheers, Mark

Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on June 24, 2026, 08:45:58 PMTerrific!

Cheers, Mark

Thanks Mark!

When you panic needing a tiny clamp and resort to a giant 15" cresent wrench. :o

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Well, my late brother the carpenter said, "You can't be too rich, too strong, or have too many clamps!"

dave

Always good to have one of those in the tool box!!!! ;D

Looking great.

Jerry

Howdy Philip,

The gussets look fantastic. Thanks for the crescent wrench tip.  I like it.

Have fun,
mike

Philip as the others have mentioned the gussets really add another layer of detail. Using the wrench as a clap is a new one on me and is brilliant!! Clamps = future Christmas presents; just saying.

Quote from: deemery on June 25, 2026, 08:47:34 AMWell, my late brother the carpenter said, "You can't be too rich, too strong, or have too many clamps!"

dave

True  ;D

Quote from: Jerry on June 25, 2026, 09:56:43 AMAlways good to have one of those in the tool box!!!! ;D

Looking great.

Jerry

Thanks!

Quote from: friscomike on June 25, 2026, 11:17:13 AMHowdy Philip,

The gussets look fantastic. Thanks for the crescent wrench tip.  I like it.

Have fun,
mike

Try to avoid that tip...TY.

Quote from: Larry C on June 25, 2026, 11:35:24 AMPhilip as the others have mentioned the gussets really add another layer of detail. Using the wrench as a clap is a new one on me and is brilliant!! Clamps = future Christmas presents; just saying.

More like unbrilliant.....Was lucky it was usable.
Thanks!

Sorry a wrench has been thrown into your modeling.  ;D  8)
But that's a very creative use of that wrench.

Quote from: Rick on June 25, 2026, 06:00:37 PMSorry a wrench has been thrown into your modeling.  ;D  8)
But that's a very creative use of that wrench.

Right! ;)

A couple shots of the 3d sub-frame details on the roof topper coupla. I have scratch built these before and used an HO scale stair stringer for spacing the slats. A slow process to scratch build.

copola1.pngcopola.png

Philip

Philip nice drawing and how you do those slats.

Jerry

Quote from: Jerry on June 26, 2026, 10:32:03 AMPhilip nice drawing and how you do those slats.

Jerry

The 1st print was an epic failure....Thanks for the kind words!

looks great Philip. Using the crescent wrench was an out of the box idea.

Quote from: PRR Modeler on June 26, 2026, 04:31:14 PMlooks great Philip. Using the crescent wrench was an out of the box idea.

Sheer luck!

The vent kinda printed on the 3d try. The plan is to paint the print a wood color and affix strip wood as a veneer. The last photo show the long row to hoe approach so I made it one piece. I plan on printing it again because it has areas that failed. The bottom edge and ends need more support.  I also have the dormers location roughed.

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Here is the bad corner where the model didn't have enough support. Clearly not straight.




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Philip

There is no doubt a reason, but just wondering why, after putting so much effort into building the wall framing, you are not adding purlins, fly rafters, outriggers, fascia, etc.?

Cheers, Mark.

Howdy Philip, excellent work on the cupola.  Have fun, mike

Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on June 27, 2026, 03:58:56 AMThere is no doubt a reason, but just wondering why, after putting so much effort into building the wall framing, you are not adding purlins, fly rafters, outriggers, fascia, etc.?

Cheers, Mark.

Great question Mark,  I overdid the rafters gussets for one reason. Strength. Even when they won't show. The entire roof including cupola, dormers, smoke pipe, is a removable assembly. What will be detailed are the overhangs which should make a plausible model. The roof ends (fat purlins ;D )  will be covered in trim with a wider trim to match the rafter tails. Fly rafters outriggers would be fun but...no. I want to keep a degree of fun in the build and not fret about some of the details you mentioned.

Quote from: friscomike on June 27, 2026, 08:18:28 AMHowdy Philip, excellent work on the cupola.  Have fun, mike

TY Mike!   
       

I recently found a good substitute clamp...

metricenglish crescent wrench joke image at DuckDuckGo.jpeg

Quote from: KentuckySouthern on June 27, 2026, 11:32:30 AMI recently found a good substitute clamp...

Perfect!

Afternoon All,

Had a crappy sleep last night and trying to stay awake as long as possible. Still have the stomach issues. I'm here to say OJ was not my friend today. :(

Thanks for the well wishes.

Karl I got a chuckle from your meme.

I hope everyone has a good day.

Oh lordy Curt OJ!

Hope your stomach settles down!

Finally.

Your print looks good to me.
Will we he side that's not perfect be seen?
Will you do another prin

Good deal Curt!

Karl... I need one of those! :o

I printed a good one today Rick. We have had 6" of rain today so I didn't prep paint today. I-65 was flooded and closed for a bit today in Elizabethtown. Flash flooding everywhere.

Philip

Philip the cupola will be a nice detail addition. I'm with you on the roofing especially if it can't be seen.
Had to laugh at Karl's "new clamp".

Quote from: Larry C on June 28, 2026, 08:06:39 AMPhilip the cupola will be a nice detail addition. I'm with you on the roofing especially if it can't be seen.
Had to laugh at Karl's "new clamp".

The remedy for the lost 10mm.  8)   

With all that rain you should be able to finish this up this week???  ;D
Everything is looking good.

Jerry

Quote from: Jerry on June 28, 2026, 10:19:34 AMWith all that rain you should be able to finish this up this week???  ;D
Everything is looking good.

Jerry

Maybe not....but thanks for the motivation! lol

Fishing buddy helped me today. The big one!
Also messing around with dormer position. They are just tacked on with a dot of glue. Not sure if the current position is good? Any suggestions? I was thinking having 3 on each side of the roof?

Adding wood veneer over the 3d prints is pretty easy. CA to the plastic and then wood glue to joint the wood trim. The roofing will be tin.

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Tomorrow I'll prime the two dormers and figure out the wood layout. I primed the coupla in camo brown. Good enough.

Thanks for looking and I'm open to suggestions, good, bad and unlikeful 8). 

We topped out a 107 today with the heat index. OMG!

Philip

Philip looking good so far. Personally I think 3 dormers is overkill; the 2 look just fine. Yup that heat crap is coming our way this week.

Quote from: Larry C on June 30, 2026, 08:00:08 AMPhilip looking good so far. Personally I think 3 dormers is overkill; the 2 look just fine. Yup that heat crap is coming our way this week.

Thanks Larry. The original had the dormers on one end close together under the area without the double doors.

Maybe I need to make them wider?

dormer (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=118226;image)

Philip I like the two dormers.  They came out really nice.
What kind of glue for the wood to the plastic do you use???

One thing I question isn't that level a little big for the worker to use????  ;D

Jerry

Quote from: Jerry on June 30, 2026, 09:56:56 AMPhilip I like the two dormers.  They came out really nice.
What kind of glue for the wood to the plastic do you use???

One thing I question isn't that level a little big for the worker to use????  ;D

Jerry

Thanks, CA seems to hold but I rough the mating surface first. Just to give it some tooth.

Quote from: Philip on June 30, 2026, 09:44:14 AM

Quote from: Larry C on June 30, 2026, 08:00:08 AMPhilip looking good so far. Personally I think 3 dormers is overkill; the 2 look just fine. Yup that heat crap is coming our way this week.

Thanks Larry. The original had the dormers on one end close together under the area without the double doors.
Maybe I need to make them wider?

dormer (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=118226;image)

Might not be a bad idea to make the 2 stand out a little more and provide some balance to the building.

Quote from: Larry C on July 01, 2026, 07:50:13 AM

Quote from: Philip on June 30, 2026, 09:44:14 AM

Quote from: Larry C on June 30, 2026, 08:00:08 AMPhilip looking good so far. Personally I think 3 dormers is overkill; the 2 look just fine. Yup that heat crap is coming our way this week.

Thanks Larry. The original had the dormers on one end close together under the area without the double doors.
Maybe I need to make them wider?

dormer (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=118226;image)

Might not be a bad idea to make the 2 stand out a little more and provide some balance to the building.

After a second look at the plans they will be bigger after the veneer is on. Time to proceed. The window openings match the wall framing almost exact.

Howdy, Philip. The cupola looks amazing.  It's a clever trick to use a casting for a sturdy frame, especially with all those louvers.  Have fun, mike

Quote from: friscomike on July 01, 2026, 04:46:57 PMHowdy, Philip. The cupola looks amazing.  It's a clever trick to use a casting for a sturdy frame, especially with all those louvers.  Have fun, mike

Thanks!

Looking great, Philip.

I agree - the cupola looks terrific.

Cheers, Mark.

Terrific looking structure going together here.  I love the fisherman, no tall tales, he's pn the level... ::)

Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on July 02, 2026, 04:37:18 PMLooking great, Philip.

I agree - the cupola looks terrific.

Cheers, Mark.

Thanks Mark!

Quote from: KentuckySouthern on July 02, 2026, 05:34:31 PMTerrific looking structure going together here.  I love the fisherman, no tall tales, he's pn the level... ::)

 8) He likes beer no doubt. Thanks!

Philip,

Just getting caught up on you fantastic build. Wonderful job on the main structure and the 3D detail parts. This is really looking great.

Tom

Quote from: ACL1504 on July 03, 2026, 11:19:48 AMPhilip,

Just getting caught up on you fantastic build. Wonderful job on the main structure and the 3D detail parts. This is really looking great.

Tom

Thanks Tom!

Not much accomplished this week. I did manage to prepare the dormers with pre-sanding because I didn't use any supports. If you notice the bottom area of the gray dormer sitting there it has an edge on the bottom that flares out. It is also called elephant foot in 3d terms and I had to sand the devil out of the contact base to remove it and square it up. When you print like this it thinks it is printing supports. This way saves print time but creates a little dust when sanding. This print took two and a half hours to finish and then the bath in alcohol. Maybe 3 hours total but 20 minutes actual time to post process.

I had considered using 3 dormers but Larry said it would be overkill. Wise man! Hence the extra dormer.

I then primed both dormers and followed with a brushed on coat of brown paint to keep the gray base from peeking through. The rest is just strip wood CA'ed in place except the tiny overhangs. The window openings were lastly cut out with a new #11 blade. The windows openings were fiddle and came unglued during the cutting and trimming.

I added the boards to the walls first and cut the roof boards in after the dormers were attached. 

I then added a narrow wood block to each dormer to serve as a mount. The dormers were then both glued in place to the main roof with white glue and CA as some insurance. I also painted the inside raw wood blocks with black brush paint to hide the mounts, etc.

Good enough I suppose. I'm hopeful to get the two dormer windows and tin roof on or prepped this week. A whole lot of roof on this monster!

blacks13.jpg
blacks12.jpg

Philip

   

Philip the looks sooooo good; well done and has a nice area balance.

Excellent job Philip.

Philip, I think two was a good decision.
They look very good.

Thanks you Larry, Curt, and Rick!

Philip

They look great!!  Nice coloring on the wood.

Jerry

Thanks Jerry!  Using Mike Chamber's stain recipe. It's so old I think it might be algaefied :o

A 12 window week. Good e nuff.





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Thanks for looking!

oh they kinda slide.....20260712_200015.jpg
Philip

Philip, the windows look very good.

Nice work.

Philip excellent job on the windows.

Philip those windows look excellent and they work too? Niiiiice.

Thanks again guys.  ;D

1:1 stuff looming again! Gads!

Philip

Howdy Philip,

That's some really nice work on the structure framing and windows. Good luck with the 1:1 stuff.

Have fun,
mike

Thanks Mike!

The tin making party is almost done and then into the etchant solution.  130 pieces.

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Philip

I made this brayer up to speed up the process. It takes some steady pressure to make the raised seams. 3 or 4 passes per sheet. Basically the mini version of Labdads process minus the pronounced V.

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Philip

Philip just getting some time to catch up.

Great job on those windows for sure.

Metal roofing is perfect.

Jerry

Great job on the windows and roofing.

That 'seam roller' was 3d-printed?  Great results!

dave

Philip, that's a neat tool you made to make the roof.
Metal looks perfect.
Careful using the etchant.

Great little tool you made!! The metal looks great.

Thanks to all!

Yes 3d printed Dave. The brayer was really old, originally had a wooden roller for laminates perhaps.

The chemical douche will be outside Rick. Takes forever one piece at a time..

Slow (https://www.facebook.com/share/r/1bJfdzxNwL/)

A wallpaper seam roller might work for this, how wide is your breyer template?

dave

Philip,

The windows look like a master carpenter's work, well done. Love the roofing panels as well.

Tom