July 22, 1929
Bottomless Pit Discovered at Mara
by Frederic "Flash" Williams of the Clearwater Telegraph
Residents at Mara woke up this morning to find a 48ft diameter hole at the west end of the yard at Mara that appears to be bottomless. The hole was discovered when the locomotive crew showed up at the yard to discover that the 48ft turntable has disappeared.
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The hole where the turntable was located in Mara Yard
Speculation has run rampant as to what happened to the turntable from Sam Snead, who is the Mara Yard Dispatcher, saying that the turntable had to be stolen but couldn't explain how a 48ft turntable, pit and all could be moved during the night without anyone noticing. Matilda Roughbottom figures that the turntable is still there, It's just a big magic trick, but refused to step over the edge to prove that the turntable is still there. Ralph Odonnell is floating the theory that the turntable was really a UFO that aliens powered up to finally go home, but it is suspected that he is still under the influence from last night activities.
This article will be updated when further information is known.
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KHM-GT-002.jpg
The turntable that was at Mara is now the turntable in the West End Staging Yard (Lac La Hache). Mara was a temporary location for this modified Walthers turntable. A few years ago the Mrs bought me a 45ft gallows turntable kit from Kitwood Hill Models for my Birthday.
Nothing like a deadline to get the modeling juices flowing........
As stated in my previous post I received a 45ft gallows turntable made by Kitwood Hill Models for my birthday a few years ago to replace the turntable that was used in Mara. Seeing as it has already been reinstalled in the west end staging yard I need to replace it before the October open house there my layout will be open to the tour participants.
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The instructions was e-mailed to me in a PDF that I had to print out.
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What you see when you open the 12" pizza box. I'll only open the part bags as i need them as there are a lot of small parts.
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Second layer of parts which contains the pre-bent wing rail and pip bottom.
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The final layer of parts, the remaining parts of the pit.
For more information on the kit: https://kitwoodhillmodels.com/2026/07/06/on30-45ft-gallows-turntable/#more-541
Note: the description on the website now states that the motor is not included but is readily available from other sources. when I got my kit the motor was included.
Thanks for looking in.
Ron looking forward t this build.
Jerry
Great story! And looks to be a neat kit.
Watching with interest to see the mystery solved and the build of the new turntable.
Cheers, Mark.
Ron I'll definitely be following this build.
Ron nice backstory. Yup I'll be following along asa well; never seen someone build a turntable before...should be fun.
I have the HO version of the gallows TT. That is a -superbly designed kit- that assembles and operates well. The power routing approach is particularly well thought out.
IMG_7469-smaller.jpg
dave
Howdy Ron,
I'm looking forward to your build. It sure looks complex, but I'm sure it will be a fun build.
I have the same kit for the BCMC, so I'm going to school on your build.
Have fun,
mike
8)
Thanks for the comments Jerry, Mark, Curt, Larry, Dave, mike and Philip.
I'm glad some of you enjoyed the backstory. Back in the Railroad-Line forum I used to add a small backstory to each build just to add a little fun into the build. I think I'll start doing that here.
Dave, that is a great looking turntable. If mine looks half as good I'll be happy.
The plan is to do this as a step by step build a la ACL1504.
Thanks for looking in.
Ron, I also enjoy a good backstory, well done!
Looks like an interesting build coming up
;D 8) ::)
Here's my Kitwood with the scenery, enginehouse, etc:
IMG_1710.jpeg
This is for the yard switcher. I want to build a small coal dock in that triangle at the bottom left of the photo, and add a water column on the other side of the turntable lead.
add The thing to notice is the turntable pit. The top of the pit matches the turntable deck, so rails sitting on the top of the pit align with rails on the turntable. BUT that means you have to plan for that height when you set the turntable into position. The thickness of the pit top is about the same as tie thickness, but that means the turntable pit's top sits that same height above the ground level that the track ties sit on. If you look carefully, you can see how I handled that with the scenery.
dave
Ron, enjoyed reading the story.
Good looking kit that should keep you busy for a while.
Quote from: TomO/Tloc on July 23, 2026, 10:57:47 AMRon, I also enjoy a good backstory, well done!
Looks like an interesting build coming up
Tom,
Glad you liked the backstory, hope you enjoy the build.
Quote from: deemery on July 23, 2026, 01:35:19 PMHere's my Kitwood with the scenery, enginehouse, etc:
IMG_1710.jpeg
This is for the yard switcher. I want to build a small coal dock in that triangle at the bottom left of the photo, and add a water column on the other side of the turntable lead.
add The thing to notice is the turntable pit. The top of the pit matches the turntable deck, so rails sitting on the top of the pit align with rails on the turntable. BUT that means you have to plan for that height when you set the turntable into position. The thickness of the pit top is about the same as tie thickness, but that means the turntable pit's top sits that same height above the ground level that the track ties sit on. If you look carefully, you can see how I handled that with the scenery.
dave
Dave,
Thanks for the installation tips, was wondering how to do that. Was going to wait till it was built to figure it out but your explanation will help a lot.
Quote from: Rick on July 23, 2026, 06:40:56 PMRon, enjoyed reading the story.
Good looking kit that should keep you busy for a while.
Risk, glad you enjoyed the story and you are right, it will keep me busy for awhile.
Ron,
I have always liked this type of turntable. I have seen some
with a round rock wall inside the bottom cavity and weeds growing up the walls.
It appears that would be rather difficult to do in this build, as there isn't
much room. I'm sure you will do it justice. Carry onward.
Rich
Let the build begin. . . .
Construction has started on the turntable build. Because turntable builds have a bad rap this will be a step by step a la ACLTom. So without further ado, lets begin.
Step 1 - building the spider
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The pit bottom itself is composed of three pieces, shown here is the bottom of the pit. You can see the scribes lines showing where thew spider support goes.
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I figured that now would be a good time to stain them. I used Hunterline's Tie Brown for the spider supports.
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The instructions state that now would be a good time to "paint" the center of the pit where the spider goes so I figured that was good advice and stained it tie brown.
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Using carpenters glue the spider supports were glued to the pit bottom and weights added on top of the spider supports till the glue dried.
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The spider supports dried and ready for the next step.
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The next step will be adding the spider base. This piece will be used to align the spider base. It is the spindle that will transmit power to the rail.
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Next step is to add the brass bushing. This was a very tight fit and a jewelers hammer was used to coach it in place. ;D The spindle shaft was inserted through the bottom of the pit. This will be used to align the spider base.
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The spider base glued in place. I also stained this and the spider ring tie brown prior to installation.
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Once the spider base was dry I cut out the inner ring and glued on the spider ring.
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The inner blank of the spider ring was cut out and removed. This completes the spider construction.
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A close up of the spider ring.
Step 2 - Assembling the Turntable Pit Bottom.
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The kit pit floor comes with 90 degree corners but the instructions state that you can bevel the edges using a sanding drum in a Dremmel tool, so that's what I did. ;D ;D ;D
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I figured that now would be a good time to add the ties for the pit rail while I could still place the outer ring flat on my workbench. The kit comes with 25 PC ties (only 24 are required). I glued them in place using 5-minute epoxy. As you can see, they were glued in place at every second tie location. As a side note, I prefer 5-minute epoxy over CA glue in this application as the wood will soak up a lot of the CA glue.
DISCLAIMER: I think I got way to excited building this kit that I forgot to take pictures of the next steps. :o
KHM-GT-022.jpg
The kit came with a gazillion wooden ties. OK, not a gazillion, but there were over 100 where only 25 were needed. They were removed from the fret and stained before gluing in place. Like the PC ties these were glued at every second tie.
This is where I missed taking photos. Using the locator pins that come with the kit, I added glue to the underside of the middle pit bottom ring and glued this to the inner pit bottom. Once dry I repeated this process to glue the outer ring with the ties to the middle rings. You can see the locator pins at 3 o"clock and 9 o'clock.
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The finished pit bottom.
Next up will be adding the ring rail.
Thanks for looking in.
Quote from: Pennman on July 24, 2026, 09:28:57 PMRon,
I have always liked this type of turntable. I have seen some
with a round rock wall inside the bottom cavity and weeds growing up the walls.
It appears that would be rather difficult to do in this build, as there isn't
much room. I'm sure you will do it justice. Carry onward.
Rich
Rich,
I plan to use the wood walls that is supplied with the kit and I hope to add weeds growing up the walls if there is space for them. I think that the weeds are a real possibility.
Ron, you're off to a very good start.
Looks like a well designed kit.
Ron great progress. This is going to be awesome on your layout.
Great start Ron.
When you tighten the set screw on the spindle it will gall the aluminum shaft. After it is set (tightened) if you have to remove it it requires sanding. Just a heads up. Use caution.
Philip
Look at the top two photos on Ron's post #20. There's the printed circuit board rings (top photo), and then the base of the 'spider' on the second photo. See the two holes on either side of the center post. These two are the key to the power distribution. The two holes line up to -2 different rings- on the PC Board.
Later, Ron will show how the rest of the power distribution works. But I wanted to highlight these pieces early in the build, because they're hidden later. I'm still in awe at how well designed this kit is!
dave
Quote from: Rick on July 25, 2026, 06:38:47 AMRon, you're off to a very good start.
Looks like a well designed kit.
Thanks Rick,
It is a well designed kit with lots of photo's showing the construction sequence. If I had one complaint, it's that there are no pictures of the frets showing what the pieces are. I find this handy when I'm looking for a certain piece. for this kit it's a very minor complaint.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on July 25, 2026, 06:53:56 AMRon great progress. This is going to be awesome on your layout.
Thanks Curt, it will be front and center when you walk into the layout room.
Quote from: deemery on July 25, 2026, 09:16:50 AMLook at the top two photos on Ron's post #20. There's the printed circuit board rings (top photo), and then the base of the 'spider' on the second photo. See the two holes on either side of the center post. These two are the key to the power distribution. The two holes line up to -2 different rings- on the PC Board.
Later, Ron will show how the rest of the power distribution works. But I wanted to highlight these pieces early in the build, because they're hidden later. I'm still in awe at how well designed this kit is!
dave
Dave, you are giving away secrets. ;D ;D ;D
But your right, the 2 holes on either side of the center post is for power distribution to the turntable, but you already knew that. I haven't installed them yet as they are installed later on in the construction sequence. I to am impressed with how well this kit is designed, there is nothing left to chance.
Quote from: Philip on July 25, 2026, 09:03:18 AMGreat start Ron.
When you tighten the set screw on the spindle it will gall the aluminum shaft. After it is set (tightened) if you have to remove it it requires sanding. Just a heads up. Use caution.
Philip
Thanks for the heads up Philip. hopefully I'll never have to remove it but will keep your observation in mind when I tighten the set screw.
This is one of the things I like about the forum, all the help that will save heartache later.
Ron, I need to find a source for those large 'pogo peg' connectors. I have some other projects (not turntables) where they'd make a great power distribution mechanism.
And on the shaft: I assembled mine with the motor, tested everything before installation, then removed the motor. That way I could manually turn the turntable deck around to make sure the lead track rails lined up. Eventually, I'll go back and install the motor, but this TT is within easy reach so I can pivot it by hand if I ever get to the point where I operate with it...
dave
Quote from: deemery on July 25, 2026, 11:20:45 AMRon, I need to find a source for those large 'pogo peg' connectors. I have some other projects (not turntables) where they'd make a great power distribution mechanism.
And on the shaft: I assembled mine with the motor, tested everything before installation, then removed the motor. That way I could manually turn the turntable deck around to make sure the lead track rails lined up. Eventually, I'll go back and install the motor, but this TT is within easy reach so I can pivot it by hand if I ever get to the point where I operate with it...
dave
Dave, it you search for "brass spring plungers" you will find lots of options, although I didn't find the ones that came with the kit.
Time for another update. . . .
Part 3 - Assembling the bridge running rail
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The kit comes with 2 alignment wings to aid in the installation of the ring rail. The inner rail is a solid rail. in is held in place with the alignment pins that came with the kit.
KHM-GT-026.jpg
The outer ring has a slot cut in it so that the rail can be soldered to the PC ties.
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The rail soldered to the PC tie. To do the rest of the soldering I just swung the outer ring to each PC tie and soldered the rail to the PC ties until they were all soldered.
KHM-GT-028.jpg
The completed ring rail.
Part 4 - Assembling the Pit Rim and the Pit Walls
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The first stem in assembling the pit rim is installing the wall supports. These were glued in place using carpenter's glue. I prefer carpenter's glue over wood (PVA) glue as it produces a stronger bond.
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All the wall supports installed. I let this dry for a bit before the next step.
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Now the tricky part, installing the pit wall to the pit. :o The instructions suggests that the easiest to do this upside down so that is what I did. This was not difficult but a lot of patience was involved. I picked a spot to start and aligned the first wall support into the slot on the base. I then went around the ring lining up the wall supports. I did not seat them all the way until I had all the wall supports locate3d in their slots. Once they were all seated I glued them in place using carpenter's glue.
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The completed pit rim and wall supports.
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The instructions stated that you might want to stain/paint the wall sections prior to gluing them in place, so that's what I did. ;D I used my favourate turntable stain for this, Hunterline's Tie Brown. Once the stain was dried I cut the wall sections apart.
KHM-GT-034.jpg
To install the wall sections I put a thin bead of carpenter's glue along the edges and pressed them in place. This turned out to be easy as each wall section ended up being a friction fit with no sanding involved, which really surprised me as I was expecting that every piece would need sanding of some sort. I am really impressed with how well this kit is designed.
KHM-GT-035.jpg
All the wall sections installed. This completes phase one of the kit.
Thanks for looking in.
Ron your doing a perfect job on this.
Great tutorial also.
Jerry
Outstanding Ron. You actually make this look easy.
Ron, I can tell you're enjoying this build based on how fast you're progressing.
Thanks for the detailed SBS's and photos.
Ron,
This is an excellent build and the SBS looks familiar. ;D "A LA ACL1504", funny.
The turntable will look fantastic when finished, heck, looks fantastic now.
Tom
Quote from: Jerry on July 25, 2026, 11:47:40 PMRon your doing a perfect job on this.
Great tutorial also.
Jerry
Thanks Jerry, glad your enjoying the tutorial.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on July 26, 2026, 07:18:39 AMOutstanding Ron. You actually make this look easy.
Thanks Curt,
So far it has been easy, I'm really impressed with the engineering that went into this kit.
Quote from: Rick on July 26, 2026, 07:28:54 AMRon, I can tell you're enjoying this build based on how fast you're progressing.
Thanks for the detailed SBS's and photos.
Rick, I really am enjoying building this kit.
I learn a lot by reading other people's SBS so I figured others would benefit from mine.
Quote from: ACL1504 on July 26, 2026, 07:29:01 AMRon,
This is an excellent build and the SBS looks familiar. ;D "A LA ACL1504", funny.
The turntable will look fantastic when finished, heck, looks fantastic now.
Tom
Tom, Thought you would like that. ;D
I'm really pleased on how this is coming out.
Great progress, Ron. Its looking fab.
Cheers, Mark.
Great job on the rail! I would have butchered it doing it like that. I used a bending jig similar to fast tracks with N scale track
Philip
Quote from: Philip on July 26, 2026, 07:09:52 PMGreat job on the rail! I would have butchered it doing it like that. I used a bending jig similar to fast tracks with N scale track
Philip
On mine, I first curved the rail with the Fast Tracks jig, and then used the 'inner' and 'outer' jigs to make sure the ring was in alignment. That combination worked -very well-.
dave
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on July 26, 2026, 04:08:52 PMGreat progress, Ron. Its looking fab.
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks Mark.
Quote from: Philip on July 26, 2026, 07:09:52 PMGreat job on the rail! I would have butchered it doing it like that. I used a bending jig similar to fast tracks with N scale track
Philip
Thanks Philip, the rail installation went easier than I expected.
Quote from: deemery on July 26, 2026, 08:18:56 PMQuote from: Philip on July 26, 2026, 07:09:52 PMGreat job on the rail! I would have butchered it doing it like that. I used a bending jig similar to fast tracks with N scale track
Philip
On mine, I first curved the rail with the Fast Tracks jig, and then used the 'inner' and 'outer' jigs to make sure the ring was in alignment. That combination worked -very well-.
dave
Dave, mine came pre-bent.
MOre progress today . . . . . .
Part 5 - Fitting the spring plungers
KHM-GT-036.jpg
This was really quite easy. The instructions state that this should be a press fit so that the spring plungers don't get damaged during installation that could effect their operation. In order to do this I needed to ream out the two holes in order to achieve the "pressure fit".
KHM-GT-037.jpg
The inside of the spider showing the spring plungers. This is used to transfer power from the turntable to the turntable bridge using the supplied PCB ring supplied with the kit.
KHM-GT-038.jpg
I decided now would be a good time to solder the leads to the plunger before it got really difficult after the gearbox gets installed.
Part 6 - Gearbox and Motor Assembly.
Ok, this is where things get interesting. . . . . .
Gearbox.jpg
These are pictures taken from the instructions showing the gearbox and motor mount details. The top plates and motor doesn't match with came with my kit. The shaft on the motor I got had a gearbox with the shaft 90 degrees in relation of the motor. Also included in the kit was a coupling but no gears.
After doing a dry run with the parts I have I found out (realized?) that my motor was a direct drive that attached directly to the turntable bridge shaft using the supplied coupling. I'm guessing that this is a later change that didn't require any gears, which makes things a lot easier, but didn't make it into the instructions.
KHM-GT-039.jpg
When rest fittings the pieces I found that they required a little too much force to seat them in the slots on the turntable base so I use a flat file to thin the tabs a wee bit. These are the 2 side supports with gussets glued together.
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The side supports glued in place.
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The motor base plate blued to the side supports.
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There was a secondary motor support that the motor is attached to.
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The coupling attaches to the motor shaft using 2 grub screws. The coupling came machined to match the motor shaft and the turntable bridge shaft, which are different diameters.
KHM-GT-044.jpg
The motor is attached to the "gear box" using 6 screws. I haven't attached the motor yet. It will probably be the last step to be done in the construction process.
Part 7 - Bridge Structure Assembly
As usual the pieces were pre-stained and allowed to dry before assemble. One thing I really like about alcohol based stain is that they dry quickly. ;D
KHM-GT-045.jpg
construction starts with gluing the bridge shaft supports to the two bridge stringers along with the spacer pieces at each end of the bridge. The instructions state "that is important to keep the bridge square at all times "neon flashing lights :o OK, Maybe not the "neon flashing lights" but it was in bold test. In order to do this I used some of my collections of 1-2-3 blocks to keep everything 90 degrees to each other. I also used the PCB to make sure that it would fir where it is supposed to once the glue dried.
KHM-GT-046.jpg
The weights removed once the glue had set.
KHM-GT-047.jpg
The PCB removed Now we are ready to install the bridge stringers.
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The first to be install are the deep stringers, 2 per side.
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These 4 stringers are installed between the previous installed stringers. These has a shallow center to allow for the wires from the rail.
KHM-GT-050.jpg
The remaining stringers get installed along each end of the bridge (8 per end).
KHM-GT-051.jpg
All the stringers installed.
KHM-GT-052.jpg
The bridge was placed upside down on the bench and weights added to keep everything flat until the glue dried.
KHM-GT-053.jpg
The last step is to add the 2 curved pieces that are installed at each end.
KHM-GT-054.jpg
Test fitting the turntable bridge. OK, so I kept my fingers crossed as this was the part that gave me the biggest problem when I scratchbuilt the last turntable I built. It seemed I was worried for nothing as it spun around with no binding what-so ever. Have I mentioned that I have been really impressed with the engineering of this kit?
Things will slow down at this point as It's back to work tomorrow.
Thanks for looking in.
Oh Fun! Looking good~
Mine had an older N 20 type motor.
Ron, you're flying on this build.
Great color on those ties.
Wow Ron. You are smoking through this build. Everything looks very professionally done.
Ron great work and attention to detail!! Looks like a winner to me.
God there must be a loco on the the other side waiting to get out of the terminal.
At the rate your going he won't have to wait long!!!
Excellent build Ron.
Jerry
Quote from: Philip on July 26, 2026, 10:11:19 PMOh Fun! Looking good~
Mine had an older N 20 type motor.
Thanks Philip,
From what I can gather I believe the supplied motor has changed over the years.
Quote from: Rick on July 27, 2026, 06:09:22 AMRon, you're flying on this build.
Great color on those ties.
Thanks Rick,
I'm having a ton of fun building this and with 3 day weekends, it gives me lots of time to model. Glad you like the colour on the ties.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on July 27, 2026, 06:54:24 AMWow Ron. You are smoking through this build. Everything looks very professionally done.
Thanks Curt,
Building this has been a blast.
Quote from: Larry C on July 27, 2026, 07:43:52 AMRon great work and attention to detail!! Looks like a winner to me.
Thanks Larry,
It's has been an easy build so far as the engineering is spot on with very little fitting or sanding required.
Quote from: Jerry on July 27, 2026, 11:25:35 AMGod there must be a loco on the the other side waiting to get out of the terminal.
At the rate your going he won't have to wait long!!!
Excellent build Ron.
Jerry
Thanks Jerry,
The crew is working overtime to get this done as the yard crew almost lost one locomotive into the void forgetting that the original turntable went missing, the cause of which is still under investigation.
Howdy Ron,
The turntable is progressing well. Thank you for taking the time to document the process. It is outstanding.
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: friscomike on July 28, 2026, 11:05:57 AMHowdy Ron,
The turntable is progressing well. Thank you for taking the time to document the process. It is outstanding.
Have fun,
mike
Thanks Mike,
Glad you are enjoying the process.
Well my week at work is done and I have now time to get back to the turntable build. ;D So without further ado, lets get to it.
I think from this point forward I'll show each step as I complete them instead of saving two or three steps and then posting them. The reason for this is that I can post while I let the stain dry for the next step.
Part 8 - Bridge Support Wheel Assemblies
KHM-GT-055.jpg
First step is to stain the parts. Shown here is the wheel support (at top) and the pieces required to build one wheel housing.
KHM-GT-056.jpg
The sides and end of the wheel housing glued to the wheel support.
KHM-GT-057.jpg
The wheel and axle installed in the wheel housing.
KHM-GT-058.jpg
The axle capture plates installed. These are a very snug fit so that the axle stays in place.
KHM-GT-059.jpg
One completed wheel assembly.
KHM-GT-060.jpg
The above steps were completed to complete the second wheel support assembly.
KHM-GT-061.jpg
The bridge support wheel assemblies attached to the bridge.
On to the next step. . . . . .
Perfecto Elwood!
Thanks Philip and Rick,
This is turning out to be a fun easy build.
Very nice although the wheel assembly looks very fiddly.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on July 31, 2026, 07:12:30 AMVery nice although the wheel assembly looks very fiddly.
Thanks Curt, actually the wheel assembly went surprisingly well, everything fit precisely.
Part 9 - Adding the Bridge Stringers
The instructions call for the stringers to be glued in place using one of the stay wires as a spacer, then turn everything upside down and weigh it down to keep it flat and square. I figured this would be frustrating and complicated to keep square so I took a more measured approach.
KHM-GT-062.jpg
I started by gluing the outer stringers to the outside of the bridge. I clamped them in place making sure that the outside stringers were flush with the edge of the bridge.
KHM-GT-063.jpg
I used some scrap wood and clamps to the center section of the bridge to make sure that the stringers were flush with the bridge deck. This insures that the bridge will be flat when the glue dries.
KHM-GT-064.jpg
The outer stringers glued to the deck.
KHM-GT-065.jpg
I measured the diameter of the stay wires that were supplied with the kit. The diameter of the stay wires were 0.032 diameter. Rather than use the stay wire as the spacer, I didn't have any .030 styrene that was suitable so I cut some 0.010 and 1.020 sheet styrene in strips to use as spacers.
KHM-GT-066.jpg
I then clamped the inside stringers to the outside stringers using the spacers.
KHM-GT-067.jpg
I then turned the bridge upside down on the work bench and added weight to insure that the deck would stay flat while the glue dried.
KHM-GT-068.jpg
Once everything was dried, the spacers were removed.
KHM-GT-069.jpg
The last part of this assembly sequence was to to glue the upper spider to the underside of the bridge.
That's it for now.
Thanks for looking in.
That seems very complicated to me Ron.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on July 31, 2026, 12:49:39 PMThat seems very complicated to me Ron.
Curt, it seems complicated but the instructions have a lot of great photos that show the process.
A turntable is inherently a complex structure with some tight tolerances. I don't think I've ever built a better designed kit than this one. Everything went together perfectly and the result works really well. The instructions are first rate (and when I had a question, it was answered quickly.)
dave
Ron, it's coming together nicely and thanks for all the pictures.
Quote from: deemery on July 31, 2026, 02:16:02 PMA turntable is inherently a complex structure with some tight tolerances. I don't think I've ever built a better designed kit than this one. Everything went together perfectly and the result works really well. The instructions are first rate (and when I had a question, it was answered quickly.)
dave
Dave, I agree with you on the quality of the instructions.
Quote from: Rick on July 31, 2026, 02:31:47 PMRon, it's coming together nicely and thanks for all the pictures.
Thanks Rick,
I figure if someone else wanted to build this kit the step by step would help.
Part 10 - Fitting the rails.
Next up is attaching the rails. The instructions call for using a piece of flex track with most of the ties stripped off. Seeing as my layout is 95% hand laid, there was no other option was to hand lay the rails. ;D If my calculations are correct, I'll have 95.1% hand laid track when I'm done.
KHM-GT-070.jpg
First up was soldering the leads to the bottom of the rail.
KHM-GT-071.jpg
Here is where things get interesting. The instructions say that there are 2 centering gauges that are in with the gear bag. Unfortunately the kit didn't come with the gear bag so there was no centering gauge. :o
KHM-GT-072.jpg
So, in order to center the rail I did what I always I made a jig. ;D
KHM-GT-073.jpg
The rails spiked to the bridge.
KHM-GT-074.jpg
The rails trimmed to size.
KHM-GT-075.jpg
The last step is to file the inside if the rail. This is to allow for easy alignment when it use.
Thanks for looking in.
Ron excellent work; it doesn't get any better than that. Should work
flawlessly.
As an example of how well-designed this kit is: Look at the instruction photos showing the track gauge templates. There's a center hole that matches the hole in the bridge, and a pin that makes sure the gauge is properly centered. The gauge has 2 widths. One is for HO/On30, and the other is for On3, depending on how you orient the gauge. It's too bad those parts weren't in Ron's box.
dave
Outstanding modeling Ron. What are the rail spikes made from?
Howdy Ron,
Wow!
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: Larry C on July 31, 2026, 06:10:43 PMRon excellent work; it doesn't get any better than that. Should work
flawlessly.
Thanks Larry,
The plan is to have it work flawlessly. ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on July 31, 2026, 06:47:26 PMOutstanding modeling Ron. What are the rail spikes made from?
Thanks Curt,
The spikes are Micro-Engineering small spikes (part #30-106)
Part 11 - The Gallows
KHM-GT-076.jpg
Each side of the gallows is made up of 4 parts.
KHM-GT-077.jpg
The Kit comes with a jig for making the gallow frame but it really wasn't needed as the pieces fit together flawlessly.
KHM-GT-078.jpg
At the bottom of each post that meets the bridge there is a "plate". I assumed that there would be a metal piece on the real thing so I painted them light rust (Vallejo Panzer Aces 301).
KHM-GT-079.jpg
The first gallow frame installed.
KHM-GT-080.jpg
The second gallow frame installed
KHM-GT-081.jpg
Gluing the cross members at the top of the gallows in place.
KHM-GT-082.jpg
this is the result of round 2 of gluing the cross members in place. :o
Thank god wood glue takes some time to set up. I was looking at my handy work when I realized that something didn't look right so I took some measurements at the top and bottom were not the same. Looking at the instructions I noticed the the top crossbeams extended past the gallow frames. So I pried the crossbeams apart and tried again. I forgot to take pictures of round 2, probably because I was mad at myself for not checking more carefully.
KHM-GT-083.jpg
A close-up of the top of the gallows.
Next up, installing the stays.
Looking Great Ron!
For the stays I used stretchy black cord. It still have elasticity after 7 years. Was easier and safer for my clumsy hands. I know when you paint that cord the stretchy-ness is gone in no time. Just a thought.
Philip
Quote from: Philip on August 01, 2026, 10:32:03 AMLooking Great Ron!
For the stays I used stretchy black cord. It still have elasticity after 7 years. Was easier and safer for my clumsy hands. I know when you paint that cord the stretchy-ness is gone in no time. Just a thought.
Philip
Philip,
Funny you should mention that, I was thinking the same thing, I have black E-Z-LIne that I can use. I think I'll try the wire that comes with the kit first. If I have issues, I have a plan B. ;D
Simon (Kitwood Hills owner/designer) and I swapped messages on the wires. I've always had problems getting precise bends in wires (e.g. truss rods).
dave
Quote from: deemery on August 01, 2026, 11:06:05 AMSimon (Kitwood Hills owner/designer) and I swapped messages on the wires. I've always had problems getting precise bends in wires (e.g. truss rods).
dave
Dave, the precise bends is what worries me as there are no bend diagrams to get the precise bends which means that they need to be done by eye. :o I'm going to try it but if it turns out to be too difficult I'll use Philips method.
The related concern is drilling the diagonal hole through the outside tie/stringer for the guy wire:
Screenshot 2026-08-01 at 11.57.33.jpg
(I'm enjoying reliving my build experience through your posts, Ron!)
dave
Ron so far an outstanding job!
Jerry
I agree with Jerry. Outstanding. Good luck with the wire.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on August 01, 2026, 01:33:11 PMI agree with Jerry. Outstanding. Good luck with the wire.
Thanks Curt. It turns out that the wire wasn't a problem. ;D
Part 12 - The Dreaded Gallow Truss stays.
This is the part of the project that I was the most worried about. The biggest issue is that there are no bending diagrams in the instructions, just a photo showing how the stays should be bent. Because of this I was seriously considering using E-Z-Line for the stays, but that would be the easy way out.
KHM-GT-084.jpg
After thinking about the stay issue I decided to make a full size template to make a bending diagram for the stays. The stays are in blue.
KHM-GT-085.jpg
Using the template I bent the stays into thew proper configuration.
KHM-GT-086.jpg
The lower stays bent and installed. I uses CA to glue these in place. This pictures shows the stays in place before the saddle cap is installed.
KHM-GT-087.jpg
The rest of the stays installed.
KHM-GT-088.jpg
A close up of the bottom of the stays showing the "ties" that hold the stays in place. These were also glued using CA.
KHM-GT-089.jpg
A close-up of the top of the gallows showing the saddle caps installed. An interesting note is that a photo in the instructions shows holes in the saddle cap that are not on my saddle caps. I believe the holes are for adding NBW castings. This is a detail that I will add later.
KHM-GT-090.jpg
An overall view of the bridge showing the stay installation.
That will be it for today, I've made a lot of progress the last three days so I'll be taking a small break from this project.
Thanks for looking in.
WOW Ron, this just keeps getting better. The wire looks very good.
Fantastic bending on that!
I was going to also recommend fishing line like Mt Blue uses in his kit but you got it Elwood!
Philip
Howdy Ron,
Wow again. Excellent work on the stays. Looks like your template technique worked well.
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: PRR Modeler on August 01, 2026, 05:50:34 PMWOW Ron, this just keeps getting better. The wire looks very good.
Thanks Curt, the drawing I made made the wire bending easy.
Quote from: Philip on August 01, 2026, 06:30:29 PMFantastic bending on that!
I was going to also recommend fishing line like Mt Blue uses in his kit but you got it Elwood!
Philip
Thanks Philip, I'm not a huge fan of the nylon fishing line as I find it needs to be under a lot of tension in order for it not to sag. That being said I have used it with great success. On some of the Mt Blue Kits I have built I have with replaced the fishing line with brass rod. The fishing line is a viable option.
Quote from: Philip on August 01, 2026, 06:36:07 PMThe easy out stretch cord method ;D
20260801_182819.jpg20260801_182815.jpg
Philip, the E-Z-Line stays look fantastic.
Quote from: friscomike on August 02, 2026, 07:57:44 AMHowdy Ron,
Wow again. Excellent work on the stays. Looks like your template technique worked well.
Have fun,
mike
Thanks Mike, for me the template technique made all the difference.
Ron all I can say is WOWSA!!!!! That looks amazing on your layout. Also love the rock work; is that carved foam?
Ron the wiring is just perfect.
Excellent job!
Jerry
Quote from: Larry C on August 02, 2026, 11:24:00 AMRon all I can say is WOWSA!!!!! That looks amazing on your layout. Also love the rock work; is that carved foam?
Larry, I cant take credit for that, that's
Larry's Philip's turntable and installation.
Edit: need to give credit where credit is due.
Quote from: Jerry on August 02, 2026, 12:51:53 PMRon the wiring is just perfect.
Excellent job!
Jerry
Thanks Jerry, I'm glad I went with the wire option.
Looking fantastic, Ron.
Reminds me of bending steel for foundations.
Cheers, Mark.
Ron, A+ on bending the wire.
Looks fantastic.
I think the other turntable with the rocks is Philip's.
Oops!!!!!! Sorry Ron & Philip I guess I didn't read the post well enough. Philip outstanding job on the TT and the rock work is amazing!!!!!
I removed my two photos Ron to unfuse the con-fusz-ion. ;D
No problem Larry. It is woodland scenic rock and sculptamold mixed with tired feet. ;)
Philip
WOW RON :o :o :o :o ..........I just went through your entire story/instruction photo/essay... :o :o :o :o ....What a fantastic job ;D ;) ... it's truly amazing to me how ya'll build this stuff.....I haven't any of the tools, or weights or clamps- (I've always just used CA)- or anything else that's needed to build one of these kits..the only kits I've ever even attempted were plastic ;D ;D ;D :o ....so I'm absolutely floored by what ya'll build......such beautiful work...WAY, WAY ABOVE MY PAY GRADE ;D ;D ;D ;D ......fine work indeed.......
KYLE CREEL
IMMR & T Co.
Quote from: kyle creel on August 03, 2026, 12:47:24 PMWOW RON :o :o :o :o ..........I just went through your entire story/instruction photo/essay... :o :o :o :o ....What a fantastic job ;D ;) ... it's truly amazing to me how ya'll build this stuff.....I haven't any of the tools, or weights or clamps- (I've always just used CA)- or anything else that's needed to build one of these kits..the only kits I've ever even attempted were plastic ;D ;D ;D :o ....so I'm absolutely floored by what ya'll build......such beautiful work...WAY, WAY ABOVE MY PAY GRADE ;D ;D ;D ;D ......fine work indeed.......
KYLE CREEL
IMMR & T Co.
Kyle, this kit would be well within your abilities. It goes together well. There are a lot of steps, but the instructions are very good.
dave
Quote from: kyle creel on August 03, 2026, 12:47:24 PMWOW RON :o :o :o :o ..........I just went through your entire story/instruction photo/essay... :o :o :o :o ....What a fantastic job ;D ;) ... it's truly amazing to me how ya'll build this stuff.....I haven't any of the tools, or weights or clamps- (I've always just used CA)- or anything else that's needed to build one of these kits..the only kits I've ever even attempted were plastic ;D ;D ;D :o ....so I'm absolutely floored by what ya'll build......such beautiful work...WAY, WAY ABOVE MY PAY GRADE ;D ;D ;D ;D ......fine work indeed.......
KYLE CREEL
IMMR & T Co.
Kyle, Thank you very much and there is nothing wrong with plastic ;D
If you ever decide to try a wood kit, I would definitely recommend it. You really don't need all the fancy tools to build this kit, I use them because I have them. ;D
Quote from: deemery on August 03, 2026, 03:01:08 PMQuote from: kyle creel on August 03, 2026, 12:47:24 PMWOW RON :o :o :o :o ..........I just went through your entire story/instruction photo/essay... :o :o :o :o ....What a fantastic job ;D ;) ... it's truly amazing to me how ya'll build this stuff.....I haven't any of the tools, or weights or clamps- (I've always just used CA)- or anything else that's needed to build one of these kits..the only kits I've ever even attempted were plastic ;D ;D ;D :o ....so I'm absolutely floored by what ya'll build......such beautiful work...WAY, WAY ABOVE MY PAY GRADE ;D ;D ;D ;D ......fine work indeed.......
KYLE CREEL
IMMR & T Co.
Kyle, this kit would be well within your abilities. It goes together well. There are a lot of steps, but the instructions are very good.
dave
Kyle, I agree with Dave.
Ron, some inspiration for your build: https://www.superstock.com/asset/high-angle-view-tourists-standing-beside-steam-train-roundhouse-yuma/1060-879?srsltid=AfmBOoq44b5k69o-N-w0OoMWB0PK0WLhYsHAiVpHCsQwau0KMHYYx9dJ
dave
Thanks Dave, there is a lot of inspiration in that photo.
Time for another update, The dreaded
Part 13 - Nuts and washers
KHM-GT-091.jpg
So, these are the pieces required to make the nuts, bolts and washers required for the attachment of the stringers to the bridge ties. :o The instructions state "Go get an enormous mug of the strongest coffee you can find. You are going to need it for this bit!" Forget the coffee I would need a bottle of scotch for this step. :o :o :o The instructions also state that he had planned to use Grandt Line casting but due to supply chain problems would have caused manufacturing delays.
KHM-GT-092.jpg
The only parts I plan to use are the base plates which I assumed would be steel so I painted them "light Rust" (Vallejo's Panzer Aces #301)
KHM-GT-095.jpg
These are the NBW castings I used instead of making my own. These are Tichy's castings, 4.5" washer, 2.5" Hex nut (#8270)
KHM-GT-093.jpg
The base plates glued to the stringers on the first half of the bridge.
KHM-GT-094.jpg
Gluing of the base plates completed.
KHM-GT-096.jpg
The NBW castings glued to the first half of the bridge.
KHM-GT-097.jpg
The rest of the NBW's glued in place. I used thin CA for this step.
I will admit that using the NBW castings did not required any scotch to carry out this task, but one was has to celebrate a job well done. :D
'Fess up, Ron. How many NBWs did you lose in this process? ;D
dave
Ron having to assemble ALL those NBW's would have taken the "hernia size" bottle of Scotch. Great job and it looks terrific; it'll look great when installed.
That's a great looking turntable, Ron. I don't envy you dealing with the NBWs.
Jeff
Ron you did a great job with the NBW's. You were smart using the Tichy product. Every additional step makes the TT more awesome.
Ron that is outstanding!
Now that you got those little NBW's done sit down have a double scotch and call it a day!! ;D
Jerry
Quote from: deemery on August 09, 2026, 10:52:57 AM'Fess up, Ron. How many NBWs did you lose in this process? ;D
dave
Only 2 Dave. ;D The ones I used had bigger shanks so harder to lose.
Quote from: Larry C on August 09, 2026, 10:54:17 AMRon having to assemble ALL those NBW's would have taken the "hernia size" bottle of Scotch. Great job and it looks terrific; it'll look great when installed.
Thanks Larry, I wanted to keep some of my scotch collection for another day. ;D
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on August 09, 2026, 11:31:23 AMThat's a great looking turntable, Ron. I don't envy you dealing with the NBWs.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff, I really didn't want to spend 4 frustrating hours making the NBW's so I took the easy way out.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on August 09, 2026, 12:39:02 PMRon you did a great job with the NBW's. You were smart using the Tichy product. Every additional step makes the TT more awesome.
Thanks Curt, I'm really glad I used the Tichy NBW's.
Quote from: Jerry on August 09, 2026, 03:00:32 PMRon that is outstanding!
Now that you got those little NBW's done sit down have a double scotch and call it a day!! ;D
Jerry
Thanks Jerry, I think I'll take up our offer and have that double scotch.
Time for another Update,
Part 14 - Installing the deck.
KHM-GT-098.jpg
Staining the deck, I decided to stain the deck with Hunterlines's Driftwood Stain. First coat went on well but I felt it was a little light so I added a second coat. Not thinking I dipped the brush in the Tie Brown, you can see the difference on the right hand side of the decking. The rest of the deck got the driftwood stain. I'm counting this as a "happy" mistake.
KHM-GT-099.jpg
Splitting the deck.
KHM-GT-100.jpg
I glued down the center section first. I used my most super sophisticated clamps at the end to hold the decking in place.
KHM-GT-101.jpg
I noticed the middle bowed up a little so I added additional weight to take the bow out of the deck.
KHM-GT-102.jpg
The center deck dried and ready to go.
KHM-GT-103.jpg
Next up is the installation of the end panels. Rather that add glue to the individual ties I added a thin layer to the underside of the decking to glue them to the bridge.
KHM-GT-104.jpg
Both sides of the decking glued to the deck with my super duper clamps holding in in place. I also added the 1-2-3 blocks in the decking to keep everything flat while the glue dried.
KHM-GT-105.jpg
The decking installed and ready to go.
KHM-GT-106.jpg
Another view of the decking.
The end is in site, according to the instructions, there is only one step left.
Ron that looks amazing!!!! The "accident" adds a nice touch of unintentional weathering.
Very nice Ron. Sometimes little accidents give us the best results
Quote from: PRR Modeler on August 09, 2026, 05:12:17 PMVery nice Ron. Sometimes little accidents give us the best results
"we don't make mistakes. we have happy little accidents."
dave
Nice work Ron. Sometimes happy little accidents are meant to happen. Good to have some variation in the wood colour, even if you didn't plan it that way.
Should be a stunning turntable when finished. The NBW's are a nice touch, that are not always modelled.
Great looking rigging too.
Ron, I know you're glad to get done with the tedious step of adding the NBW's.
Using the Tichy castings saved a lot of stress and they look good.
The deck turned out very good.
Looks like you're almost done with the build and getting close to doing the install.
Quote from: Larry C on August 09, 2026, 05:09:54 PMRon that looks amazing!!!! The "accident" adds a nice touch of unintentional weathering.
Thanks Larry, If I had tried to do that on purpose, it would have been a disaster. ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on August 09, 2026, 05:12:17 PMVery nice Ron. Sometimes little accidents give us the best results
Thanks Curt, I'm taking that accident and counting it as a huge win.
Quote from: deemery on August 09, 2026, 06:10:00 PM"we don't make mistakes. we have happy little accidents."
dave
Dave, it's funny I was thinking about Bob Ross when I wrote that. ;D
Quote from: robert goslin on August 10, 2026, 01:21:06 AMNice work Ron. Sometimes happy little accidents are meant to happen. Good to have some variation in the wood colour, even if you didn't plan it that way.
Should be a stunning turntable when finished. The NBW's are a nice touch, that are not always modelled.
Great looking rigging too.
Thanks Rob, It would have made a huge visual difference it the NBW's were not added and it would have looked like something was missing. Even though I hate doing them, they are always well worth the effort.
Quote from: Rick on August 10, 2026, 06:16:20 AMRon, I know you're glad to get done with the tedious step of adding the NBW's.
Using the Tichy castings saved a lot of stress and they look good.
The deck turned out very good.
Looks like you're almost done with the build and getting close to doing the install.
Thanks Rick, The castings did save a lot of stress and frustration. Only one step left, the final assembly then the kit portion is done. After that it's adding ballast to the pit and planting the turntable.
Ron it looks natural a great job!
You can build one for me anytime !! ;D
Jerry
Quote from: Jerry on August 10, 2026, 10:32:06 AMRon it looks natural a great job!
You can build one for me anytime !! ;D
Jerry
Thanks Jerry,
I'm actually impressed that I started and completed the kit in one go. ;D
Part 15 - Putting it all together.
KHM-GT-107.jpg
Last part of finishing the bridge is to solder the wires from the bridge rails to the turning plate. I cut the wires as short as possible leaving a little slack as this will need to be stuffed into the center box (That is my technical term for it :) ),
KHM-GT-108.jpg
The turning plate in it's final location. The instructions state that this should not be glued in place as it will make it very difficult to remove if you ever need to service it. In my typical fashion I ignored this and glued in in anyway. 8) I glued it with Arleene's tacky glue as it remains pliable.
KHM-GT-109.jpg
Next step is to install the bridge to the pit. The instructions call for two washers to be installed over the shaft, not sure while they are needed, but I believe that they are for the next step.
KHM-GT-110.jpg
Next up is the coupling. This is bored out to match the two different shaft sizes between the motor shaft and the turning plate flange. I turned the turntable upside down to install the coupling to the turning plate shaft. This gives enough pressure on the plungers to seat on the turning plate rings.
KHM-GT-111.jpg
Next step is to install the motor. This was easily done by installing the shaft into the coupling and tighten the 2 grub screws. Note that there is a flat part on the motor shaft so I made sure that one of the grub screws was tightened onto the flat part of the shaft.
KHM-GT-112.jpg
Last step is to screw the motor plate to the motor mounting assembly with the supplied screws.
This completed the build.
Part 16 - The finished product and final thoughts.
Thought I would start with a couple of pictures of the finished kit.
KHM-GT-113.jpg
KHM-GT-114.jpg
Final Thoughts
Building turntables always bring challenges due to the exacting nature they need to be built to. I was prepared for a slow and exacting process with lots of filing and sanding required.
This kit was very well thought out and very well designed will all aligning aids included (well most of them in my case). No "special" tools are required to build it. Anyone with the basic selection of tools can build it. The "fancy" tools help but are not required. This kit can be built with wood glue, an exacto knife, sandpaper and clamps. I was surprised with how little sanding that was required as 95% of the sanding was sanding where the pasts were separated from the carrier sheet.
The only issue I had was that the track alignment jigs were not included in the kit as the instructions stated that they were in the "gear" bag whish wasn't in the kit. The motor that came with the kit is a direct drive so the gears were not included (the gear box is part of the motor). The only issue I had was really self-inflected. I had an issue with the motor mount assembly as the parts I had in the kit for this dis not match the instructions, so I spent some time figuring it out. I found out later that at the back of the instructions there was a section for the "MK4 replacement motor arrangement" that showed the construction sequence for the parts that are in the kit. I guess the lesson here is to read "ALL" of the instructions before starting. My usual way of doing things is to partially read the instructions and then start.
I must say this was a really fun build and would recommend this kit regardless of skill level to anyone wanting a gallows turntable.
While the build portion of this project is done I still need to ballast the pit and plant it on the layout. I'll show that portion on this thread so that it will be a complete start to finish thread.
Thanks for looking in.
Ron just an outstanding job. Great tutorial also.
Jerry
Looks great Ron, and sounds like you enjoyed doing this kit.
You said you worked some things out for yourself, but eventually found the instructions on how to do it with particular motor you were given. Did the way you did it line up with those instructions ?
Looking forward to you finishing off the pit area.
Your very detailed tutorial would be a big help to anyone building it.
Building that kit was a pleasure, and it was fun to re-live that experience through your build thread.
dave
Ron, take a bow, that looks excellent!
It will look even better when you ballast the pi.
Great job!
Truly an outstanding job building the TT Ron
Quote from: Jerry on August 15, 2026, 04:29:19 PMRon just an outstanding job. Great tutorial also.
Jerry
Thanks Jerry, I had fun documenting the build. I looked at it as part of the build process.
Quote from: robert goslin on August 15, 2026, 06:06:00 PMLooks great Ron, and sounds like you enjoyed doing this kit.
You said you worked some things out for yourself, but eventually found the instructions on how to do it with particular motor you were given. Did the way you did it line up with those instructions ?
Looking forward to you finishing off the pit area.
Your very detailed tutorial would be a big help to anyone building it.
Thanks Rob, I did enjoy the build and yes the way I did the motor aligned with the instructions.
Quote from: deemery on August 15, 2026, 06:54:45 PMBuilding that kit was a pleasure, and it was fun to re-live that experience through your build thread.
dave
Dave, glad you enjoyed re-living the experience.
Quote from: Rick on August 15, 2026, 06:56:31 PMRon, take a bow, that looks excellent!
It will look even better when you ballast the pi.
Great job!
Thanks Rick, I'm looking forward to installing the turntable.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on August 15, 2026, 07:13:15 PMTruly an outstanding job building the TT Ron
Thanks Curt.
It turned out great!
Howdy Ron,
Wow, just WoW. Thanks again for the chronicle.
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: friscomike on August 16, 2026, 02:39:45 PMHowdy Ron,
Wow, just WoW. Thanks again for the chronicle.
Have fun,
mike
Your welcome Mike, glad you enjoyed the ride.
Part 17 - Planting the Turntable
Now that the turntable is complete, the next step is to plant the turntable into it's new home.
KHM-GT-115.jpg
The home for thew turntable is located in the town of Mara, the eastern end of the railroad. As luck would have it the existing turntable hole is too big for the new turntable. The turntable that was there is now planted in Lac La Hache (west end staging).
KHM-GT-116.jpg
The "X's" are the areas to be cut out.
KHM-GT-117.jpg
The access pieces of foam cut out ready for the replacement piece.
KHM-GT-118.jpg
Because the new opening is an odd size with only 1-90 degree angle I made a template to mark the replacement foam piece.
KHM-GT-119.jpg
The completed template.
KHM-GT-120.jpg
The replacement piece id form marked and ready for cutting. While the original foam used with I built the modules was 2" thick, I decided to use 1" foam for the replacement piece. It will be easier to cut the circle in the 1" thick foam. The thickness will be sufficient to hold the weight of the turntable with a locomotive on it without deflecting.
In case anyone is wondering the washer was for the camera, for some reason without it the camera wouldn't auto focus.
KHM-GT-121.jpg
The new piece of foam cut to size. The million dollar question is, will it fit? :o
KHM-GT-122.jpg
Well it didn't quite fit, I could have forced it into place using brute force and an item of mass destruction, but that would have been too easy. ;D Actually all it needed was to trim a very thin piece along one side and it fit like a glove. ;)
To figure out where to make the hole for the turntable I needed to mark the centerline of the approach track to the turntable.
KHM-GT-123.jpg
With the centerline established It was time to mark the circle. To draw out the circle I used the 438th largest compass in the world. Ok, it was a 12" compass that woodworkers use. Instead of using a pencil, I used an x-acto knife with a no. 11 blade to mark the hole.
KHM-GT-124.jpg
Once the circle was marked out I made multiple passes with a thin box cutter knife until the hole was cut out. This was then glued into place using polyurethane construction adhesive that is safe for foam use.
KHM-GT-125.jpg
After some fine tuning trimming the hole the turntable slipped into place.
KHM-GT-126.jpg
As you can see, there was a small issue with the height alignment of the rails. Getting off the turntable probably isn't an issue, but you would need one heck of a running start to get onto the turntable. ;D
KHM-GT-127.jpg
Wood spacers of the correct height was used to elevate the turntable to the proper height.
KHM-GT-128.jpg
As you can see, the turntable rails are at the correct height.
KHM-GT-129.jpg
The finished product.
This now concludes the turntable build. I do plan to add ballast/dirt/weeds to the pit but I don't know when that will be done so when I get to it I'll record it on my layout thread.
I would also like to thank everyone for the comments and suggestions, the comments kept me motivated and the suggestions really helped a lot.
Thanks for looking in.
WOW Ron, great job of cutting out the old foam and fitting the new piece.
Get the height right was creative too.
Looks great!
Excellent job Ron. Please post a video of it in use when you get to that point.
Ron great job on the TT surgery. It's usually quite daunting cutting into the foam of an established area on your layout; at least it was for me. Looks excellent and hopefully it works as good as it looks.
Howdy Ron,
Congratulations on the installation of the turntable. It looks terrific. Thanks for taking the time to show your process for the build and installation.
Have fun,
mike
Looks great Ron.
Are you going to make some pushers for it? I made mine and found out it's better to add them after the scenery is attached.
:)
Quote from: Philip on August 22, 2026, 09:56:30 AMLooks great Ron.
Are you going to make some pushers for it? I made mine and found out it's better to add them after the scenery is attached.
:)
What I did was to remove the TT drive, so I can easily remove the bridge when working in that area. Eventually, I'll go back and re-install the drive. And I do need to add pushers on mine; I realized when I was positioning my coal dock that I needed to make room for those to swing and clear the dock.
dave
Quote from: Rick on August 22, 2026, 04:55:26 AMWOW Ron, great job of cutting out the old foam and fitting the new piece.
Get the height right was creative too.
Looks great!
Thanks Rick,
Cutting the hole took a bit of patience. As for getting the height right I bought a few bundles of off sizes of Mt. Albert strip wood that I use for bracing among other things. I found one strip that was the right height.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on August 22, 2026, 07:04:40 AMExcellent job Ron. Please post a video of it in use when you get to that point.
Thanks Curt,
I have more pressing things to do before I power it as I need to get the layout ready for viewing at the open house in Mid October which is coming fast. :o But when I do power it I will definitely take a video of it operating and I'll post it.
Quote from: Larry C on August 22, 2026, 07:22:03 AMRon great job on the TT surgery. It's usually quite daunting cutting into the foam of an established area on your layout; at least it was for me. Looks excellent and hopefully it works as good as it looks.
Thanks Larry,
Actually the surgery ended up being easier than I anticipated. I have found that rather than procrastinating about something just do it, it is usually easier than you think it is was.
Quote from: friscomike on August 22, 2026, 09:38:09 AMHowdy Ron,
Congratulations on the installation of the turntable. It looks terrific. Thanks for taking the time to show your process for the build and installation.
Have fun,
mike
Thanks Mike,
Glad you enjoyed the build.
Quote from: Philip on August 22, 2026, 09:56:30 AMLooks great Ron.
Are you going to make some pushers for it? I made mine and found out it's better to add them after the scenery is attached.
:)
Thanks Philip,
Pushers? I never even thought of that. That is a small detail that would make a great addition to the turntable. Once I get the area completed I'll add them. Thanks for asking. :)
Quote from: deemery on August 22, 2026, 11:55:56 AMQuote from: Philip on August 22, 2026, 09:56:30 AMLooks great Ron.
Are you going to make some pushers for it? I made mine and found out it's better to add them after the scenery is attached.
:)
What I did was to remove the TT drive, so I can easily remove the bridge when working in that area. Eventually, I'll go back and re-install the drive. And I do need to add pushers on mine; I realized when I was positioning my coal dock that I needed to make room for those to swing and clear the dock.
dave
Dave,
Right now it is easy to pop the turntable out of its hole. The plan is to do what you did, remove the motor when I scenic the deck. Once the deck is scenic, I'll replace the motor and power it up.
Ron, when you think about scenery, don't forget the pathway for the guys moving the turntable...
dave