I got an XTool S1 10w diode laser. (Seems that particular laser isn't made any more. XTool offers 20w - out of stock, and 40w laser modules for the S1.)
So I'll occasionally I'll post here about the learning curve. Getting this running was easier than the Creality unit (22w) that I returned because its evacuation fan didn't work. I'm using LightBurn as the controller software, with some 'here's how to get it to work' advice from the LightBurn forums.
dave
My primary material for this would be 1/16 basswood, including 1/16 scribed or clapboard siding sheets. So getting that material right is important.
I created a test sequence to try different speed/strength combinations. From top to bottom, that's, 4, 6, 8, 12, 20, 30 mm/sec at 100% then 75% and 50% (top to bottom.)
IMG_1810.jpeg
What's more important, though, is to look at the other side:
IMG_1811.jpeg
Only a few combinations burned through. The winner is 4mm/sec at 50%, with 6mm/sec at 75% in second place. What really surprised me was how much scorching there was, even at the fastest movement/lowest power setting. The 4/50 combo didn't quite burn through everything, there was a bit of splintering on the piece when I punched it out. That's not a big deal, I can finish the cut with an X-Acto knife (a common practice for laser kits I've built.)
My lettering was too dark, too (done at 150mm/25%)
Now maybe I missed a job step, I've posted these results to the LightBurn forum and someone might come back and explain what I got wrong. But still, it's an interesting first start towards using this for model RR projects.
add I measured the resulting squares. The drawing size was .50 inch, the resulting squares were .45 in, so that's .05 for the kerf when I do future designs. (And that size is after lightly sanding the burnt edges. Same size on both 4/50 and 6/75 squares.)
dave
I FOUND MY PROBLEM: I thought I was working in mm/sec for speed, instead it was IN/MIN. UGH.
Another test. This time I'm using XTool Studio, there's some sort of problem between the laser and Lightburn. So in XTool Studio, there's a test generator. I ran 5, 22, 38, 54, 70, 86, 102, 118, 134, 150 speeds and power 10-100% in 10% steps.
IMG_1812.jpeg
More importantly, what settings cut through:
IMG_1813.jpeg
There's a clear pair of winners, 5 mm/sec at 30% (still attached, easily removed) or 40% (cut through.) No burn!
I'm surprised nothing burned through at 22 mm/sec, even at 100%. I should do another round of tests at slower speeds, maybe 3, 4, 5 mm/sec at 30, 40, 50% power. But I can certainly live with this result.
Now to figure why Lightburn isn't working... I can certainly live with XTool Studio, but Lightburn has some really nice features (like the ability to set tabs).
dave
Howdy Dave,
While those test guides take a whole sheet to burn, it is worth it on a new laser. You have a nice one.
Have fun,
mike
Quote from: friscomike on September 10, 2026, 07:25:41 PMHowdy Dave,
While those test guides take a whole sheet to burn, it is worth it on a new laser. You have a nice one.
Have fun,
mike
I expected a learning curve on settings for materials. I am disappointed by the problem with Lightburn, but I'm sure it's something I have set up wrong. XTool Studio is sufficient for the kinds of things I've done before (in PowerPoint, of all things, but just for design and not for laser cutting.)
I do need to do a kerf measurement. I'll scribe 1/2" squares, and measure the resulting cut-out piece.
After I get 1/16 basswood worked out, I'll try the chipboard stuff I got that's thinner. That, plus 1/8 plywood, would probably be sufficient to do most of what I'm thinking about near-term.
dave
Thanks for walking us thru your learning process
terry
Another experiment, this one with a relatively narrow range of settings.
IMG_1814.jpeg
And from the back:
IMG_1815.jpeg
The clear winner setting was 5 mm/sec @30% power. That produced a clean cut at minimum power.
The squares were .5", so I dug out my precision calipers to measure the result:
IMG_1816.jpeg
So .005 is small enough that I can ignore kerf most of the time when doing design. There was a small difference between the vertical and horizontal lengths, but I'd really need to do a couple to make sure I wasn't just seeing measurement error.
dave
Dave...I'll be interested to know how narrow you can make window mullions/muntins
terry
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on September 11, 2026, 03:36:05 PMDave...I'll be interested to know how narrow you can make window mullions/muntins
terry
Terry, I strongly suspect that depends on the material. I don't think 1/16 basswood sheet would work very well, But 1/32 plywood might allow for narrow mullions. Let me get more experience before I try that experiment, but remind me in a month or so.
dave
Howdy folks,
Most of the window mullions I've seen were cut from resin-impregnated board about .025 thick. I'm sure you can get thinner material. It worked well for me on the fire station (https://modelersforum.com/index.php?msg=178937).
Have fun,
mike
Dave - some nice results here. Lasers are very particular per material. It takes a minute to dial them in for your stocks.
Plywood is a big no for lasers, by the way. Even the "laser-ready" plys. It's the glue between the layers that lasers just HATE. You'll be miserable trying to cut it, so I recommend sticking to Basswood.
For thinner details, all manuafacturers use Ivory Laserboard (.025). This resin-impregnated card stock cuts like a dream on laser beds. Encompass Media used to be my US-based distributor. Not sure if they are still in business though.
One other thing, focusing is super important to achieving clean (non-scorched) vector cuts.
Craig, I had to search, but I found that supplier: https://encompass-media.salesvu.com I think I have some of that stuff. First, though, I have to figure out why Lightburn isn't working with the S1. I -think- the problem (as you mention) is focus. XTool's page on using Lightburn is well out of date, but with some online help, I think I now know how to tell the laser to auto-focus. I'll try that later today and report back.
dave
SUCCESS! With help from the XTool S1 Reddit and Lightburn forums, I found the solution for Lightburn 2:
anyone-using-lightburn-with-an-s1-v0-tnhfry4dh3ph1.png.jpeg
Pressing this set the S1's vertical focus. Then I cut something using the settings I obtained from XTool Studio (5/30%). This shows the minimal burn (not the best photo)
IMG_1817.jpeg
dave
Certainly a well documented trip into your newest obsession ;D
Keep us informed, as I repeat...."I will NOT desire a lazer until I learn the 3d printer" :( :(
A significant ramification from these tests. The width of the kerf (about .005) means that I can ignore it when designing most parts. So if I want a 10' HO wall, I just need to size it 1.38" (10*12/87.1) on the drawing, and be 'close enough'. The best feature in Lightburn I've found so far is that it has a "Tab" function. That allows you to add those small sections where the laser does NOT cut, to keep the part in the carrier. That's particularly important for small parts which would fall through the honeycomb beneath the cutting stock. The way we did that before, was to draw the entire shape, then 'break' the shape to add the tabs. One problem is that takes what was a single (4 sided) object, and turns it into multiple segments. Now when doing thick material, I think it was a Good Practice to score the tab area, rather than leaving the tab the entire thickness of the material. One more comment on tabs: For larger pieces in plain wood, tabs separate easier when they're parallel with the wood grain. But that also has higher risk that the cut piece separates from the carrier, i.e. the tab "fails."
One more experiment today: Cutting circles, to see what an arc looks like in the cut piece, i.e. how smooth is it?
dave
This is all really great info...
Thanks
I cut a 1" circle (25mm, actually), and took a close-up photo, to see the resolution of the laser running around a curve:
IMG_1818.jpeg
When I run my fingernail around this, I can barely feel the ridges.
Also, looks like the kerf for the laser on the typical basswood settings is about 0.15mm.
dave
Dave...will your lazer be able to do "embossing"..brick and stone patterns?
terry
Quote from: Vietnam Seabee on September 12, 2026, 07:21:00 PMDave...will your lazer be able to do "embossing"..brick and stone patterns?
terry
Mebbe... Technically, I'm sure it can be done.
I'm not sure how Jimmy Simmons does his amazing brick relief. But I'm sure I could emboss a texture, if I found a good one.
dave
This may answer your question.
The two main laser-engraving methods are:
Raster engraving – The laser moves back and forth line by line, like a printer, removing material to create images, text, and shaded designs. It's best for photographs and filled artwork.
Vector engraving – The laser follows paths defined by lines and curves, tracing the design directly. It's best for outlines, lettering, and precise cuts or marks.
I believe he probably uses raster engraving.
Bernd
Quote from: Bernd on September 12, 2026, 07:54:12 PMThis may answer your question.
The two main laser-engraving methods are:
Raster engraving – The laser moves back and forth line by line, like a printer, removing material to create images, text, and shaded designs. It's best for photographs and filled artwork.
Vector engraving – The laser follows paths defined by lines and curves, tracing the design directly. It's best for outlines, lettering, and precise cuts or marks.
I believe he probably uses raster engraving.
Bernd
I suspect that's right. I wonder how long it takes his laser to do one of those wall panels, with the raster brick relief. For me, processing time is not a business constraint, but it is time I would need to spend in the room with the laser while it does its thing.
dave
Quote from: deemery on September 12, 2026, 08:42:13 PMI suspect that's right. I wonder how long it takes his laser to do one of those wall panels, with the raster brick relief. For me, processing time is not a business constraint, but it is time I would need to spend in the room with the laser while it does its thing.
dave
I've seen an industrial raster laser work. It doesn't take very long. The only thing that moves are the mirrors that direct the laser beam.
Bernd
Raster engraves like brick textures take time, for sure. They are definitely a consideration for a manufacturer, which is why I opted to 3D print my brick walls.
I've never seen the mirrors on a laser move, though. The 2 X and Y axis mirrors are typically locked in place along the rails. The gantry and laser head move, of course.