This topic is about lighting up the Depot Station kit available at RailroadKITS http://railroadkits.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=58 (http://railroadkits.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=58)
I'm going to cover just the lighting instructions here. Painting, weathering, and general assembly will be left to the modeler.
We're going to use a piece of illustration board to mount the electronic bits and pieces so the first step in lighting comes during Step 2 of the kit's instructions. This is where we add bracing to the walls. Shorten the bracing by the thickness of the illustration board. The photo below shows the illustration board sitting on top of the bracing. The top surface of the illustration board should be even or slightly lower than the top of the wall. The bracing for the end walls should not be shortened.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/9483972/DepotStation/Depot_Station1.jpg)
Cut the illustration board so that it fits inside the main portion of the building. Notch the illustration board to allow for the longer end wall braces. The photos below show the illustration board located inside the building. Don't glue the board in place yet
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/9483972/DepotStation/Depot_Station2.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/9483972/DepotStation/Depot_Station3.jpg)
In the next step we'll mark the locations for the LEDs
-slim
This'll be a cool thread. Don't worry about being too basic (for us electronic knuckleheads).
Lovin' it!
Looking forward to this thread. I have been remiss on lighting, but really should consider adding it to several buildings. I'll be watching.
Frank / Erieman
A must watch thread for me Slim.
Thanks!
I like to use the Intelligent LED tester to power up an LED so I can play around with the locations for LEDs. The great thing about the Depot Station kit is that it has a nice overhang that allows us to hide a regular LED up into the overhang. The same thing goes for any model that has such a roof or overhang where we can hide an LED.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/9483972/DepotStation/Depot_Station4.jpg)
Good spots for lights are over doors...
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/9483972/DepotStation/Depot_Station5.jpg)
For the inside, a regular LED lights up about a 2" x 2" area with the light about 2" above the floor...
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/9483972/DepotStation/Depot_Station6.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/9483972/DepotStation/Depot_Station7.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/9483972/DepotStation/Depot_Station8.jpg)
Keep in mind I'm not detailing the interior of this kit. I'm keeping things simple by just painting the inside walls black and spraying the the inside glazing of the windows with Dullcoat.
Once I've figured out the locations for the LEDs I mark them on the ceiling card...
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/9483972/DepotStation/Depot_Station9.jpg)
Then I draw out my connections...
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/9483972/DepotStation/DS_Ceiling_Markup.jpg)
Now I believe I've made a huge jump here and think I should do a little more 'splainin' before going on. In the next post I'll backup a wee bit and go over my plan a little better. I'll need to draw up a couple of diagrams first.
-slim
This is a great thread Slim. Keep the photos & 'splaining coming.
Slim,
When you have the opportunity, please show the 9v gizmo you're running your tests with. How is it fabricated (made up 'Gnat) or where did you buy it?
Thanks in advance.
Quote from: BandOGuy on December 27, 2013, 09:39:12 PM
Slim,
When you have the opportunity, please show the 9v gizmo you're running your tests with. How is it fabricated (made up 'Gnat) or where did you buy it?
Thanks in advance.
The 9 volt gizmo is the Intelligent LED Tester. It's an indispensable tool for me. It really does three different things so I'll mention in it a separate topic.
-slim
I never mentioned a basic item before starting this project. That key item is:
What is my power source going to be?
This is a question that needs answered with any lighting project. Am I lighting a diorama? am I adding a structure to an existing layout?
Since we're going to be using LEDs we'll need to have a DC source. This can be a battery or regulated power supply. Batteries are nice for dioramas in that they're already DC, they're self contained and don't require require plugging into a nearby outlet. Furthermore, going cordless eliminates the tripping hazard or something that can cause a model to get yanked off of a table. The down-side to batteries is that they only last so long. However, if you're only lighting a dozen or so LEDs, you might be surprised how long a nine volt battery can power up a model.
Anyone who knows me or has been to one of my clinics knows that I like to use current limiters rather than resistors for regulating current in my lighting circuits. Resistors are perfectly fine and very affordable but using them locks you into whatever voltage you decided to start with. Current limiters automatically adjust current regardless of the input voltage. For more information on them check out the LightBites articles http://microlumina.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=1&zenid=1fc4b202efad15483c9b667146e559dc (http://microlumina.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=1&zenid=1fc4b202efad15483c9b667146e559dc)
I'm going to light up Depot Station with a nine volt battery. Nine volt batteries are nice and compact and they supply a high enough voltage so that I can connect two LEDs in series off of each current limiter that I use. If I later decide to run the model off of a higher voltage source it will be ready to go since the current limiters will compensate for the higher voltage.
-slim
Here's a quick diagram that I made up to act like a road map of sorts:
(https://db.tt/1lder5eL)
Looking at the plan view I have five 3mm flood LEDs tucked up under the eaves for the exterior lights. These are located over each door with the exception of the the freight door on the end wall of the structure. I'll use three 5mm flood LEDs for the interior lighting.
I've grouped the LEDs into four groups with two LEDs in each group.
Each group will use a current limiter.
The wiring pictorial shows how everything is connected. Picture the wiring pictorial as a ladder or bookcase. It has four rungs (or shelves) and each rung (or shelf) has nine volts.
It is important to understand what is going on here before taking the next step. I'll let this simmer for a bit and see if any questions pop up.
-slim
No questions?
Bueller?...Bueller?
Hello? Is this mic on?
-slim
Quote from: Slim Jerkins on January 04, 2014, 08:21:27 AM
No questions?
Bueller?...Bueller?
Hello? Is this mic on?
-slim
How much wood...
What are the benefits/drawbacks of wiring the whole circuit like you've done above?
Jaime
...great info Slimmer....thanks for posting....
Slim,
Good info, Keep going.................
I'll be watching closely.................
Thanks for your wonderful tutorial..............
Quote from: Slim Jerkins on December 27, 2013, 12:24:19 AM
Then I draw out my connections...
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/9483972/DepotStation/DS_Ceiling_Markup.jpg)
-slim
I'm sure I should be able to figure this out, but what is "c l" on the above markup?
CL is for current limiter. It's that thing I use instead of resistors.
I need to get back to the 'splainin now that the model is pretty much done. Going from the wiring diagram to the card with the copper on it probably won't be easy for a lot of people so that might be one of the drawbacks Jaime was asking about.
Essentially, you're laying out a printed circuit board. Some might like that kind of puzzle. Others might prefer getting a colonoscopy instead.
Doing the card and copper tape thing does make for a neat installation and you won't have to worry about a spaghetti bowl of wires cluttering up the innards of your model.
-slim
Quote from: Slim Jerkins on January 12, 2014, 10:05:32 AM
CL is for current limiter. It's that thing I use instead of resistors.
-slim
As The Fonz would say, "I knew that!"
Great thread! Thanks Slim
Staples website does not recognize the term illustration board. Any other names you know for the same material?
Quote from: Slim Jerkins on January 12, 2014, 10:05:32 AMOthers might prefer getting a colonoscopy instead.
Did that. Got me a ticket to the every three year plan. :P
Quote from: Slim Jerkins on January 12, 2014, 10:05:32 AMDoing the card and copper tape thing does make for a neat installation and you won't have to worry about a spaghetti bowl of wires cluttering up the innards of your model.
What, me worry? I like my spaghetti bowl of wires. Besides, it works and it belongs to Tom when I turn the keys to the station over to him. ;D
OK. Time to get back to this. I got a red warning message saying that it's been over 120 days since anything has been added to this thread so my advice is to go back to page one, get back up to speed and avoid the guacamole that's been set out all that while.
In our last episode I showed how I drew a little electronic "map" onto a piece of illustration board. I covered my paths with copper tape like this
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/11-040614103413-24131160.jpeg)
There are gaps where the LEDs and Current Limiters will go and I marked where the negative leads of the components will get connected with a black dot. It also helps to mark the negative lead of the component itself if you're new to this kind of stuff. In this picture I'm marking the negative lead of the current limiter
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/11-040614103413-2409635.jpeg)
That picture at the top shows me poking a hole into the copper tape and the illustration board with a dissecting probe. The hole is for the leads of the Current Limiters and for some of the LEDs to poke through. Those probes come in real handy for a lot of things so go and Google on them and "go getcha some" as Jaime would say. They're good for making holes, picking up things, applying glue, enlarging gooseneck light tubing, an of course, dissecting frogs.
More to come. Let me know if the map thing is a head scratcher. :o
-slim
One thing about buildings that have big overhanging eaves is that it's easy to tuck a 3mm LED up under the eave. That's what we're doing with this kit. Here's a picture of one of the "eave" LEDs soldered into position:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/11-040614103413-24141253.jpeg)
I let the LED stick out a little bit and will bend it down later so that it hugs the underside of the roof.
Here is a shot of all the components soldered into place:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/11-040614103413-2415855.jpeg)
There are three under eave LEDs on the back (road) side of the station, two under eave LEDs on the front (track) side, and three LEDs lighting up the interior of the station. For the interior LEDs you only see the leads sticking up since they were installed from underneath. You can also see the four black Current Limiters sticking up as well.
-slim
Thank you for the info :)
Hi Slim,
Glad you got this thread going again, you seem to have been slacking as much as I.
Now that I have all the stuff from you, I'll be ale to understand what you're doing with this build. And, after Bobs' clinic on Saturday, I might be able to light up something.
Oh, don't egg Tom into doing something bad during the clinic or we'll have to head up to PA and adjust your attitude! ;D
Now I want you to study this picture real carefully:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/11-040614103413-24162099.jpeg)
See the copper path that runs down the middle of the ceiling card with all four Current Limiters connected to it? That's the positive "bus" -or- the positive side of the diagram that I posted awhile ago. If you follow the path from that positive bus to any Current Limiter you'll see that the power goes from the bus to a Current Limiter, to an LED, and then to another LED. The confusing thing here is that right now there are two separate negative buses - one at each end of the ceiling card. I have two little arrows drawn in pencil pointing out from those negative buses.
I'm going to connect the two negative buses with a piece of copper tape but the tape is going to cross over two existing paths and I don't want anything to short out. I added a couple little squares of paper over the copper paths that I'm going to cross. You can see them in the photo above.
Here is a picture showing the two negative buses connected:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/11-040614103536-2417728.jpeg)
Another thing to notice is that besides soldering the components to the foil tape, I solder certain lengths of foil together at junction points or where it turns 90 degrees. The tape has a nonconductive adhesive so overlapping the tape won't make an electrical connection. That being said, I really didn't need the two little insulating pieces of paper when adding that last connector strip but I just wanted to be sure.
A battery connector was added to the underside of the ceiling card and the leads were soldered to the positive and negative buses:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/11-040614103536-24191491.jpeg)
almost done! :)
-slim
When bending the LEDs over the edge of the wall, hold the soldered end of the LED in place since the wall will act as a fulcrum and cause the copper tape to lift off of the card if you don't hold the soldered end down. Here's a picture of the bending process:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/11-040614103536-242049.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/11-040614103536-242049.jpeg)
And finally, a picture of the completed model:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/11-040614101548.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/11-040614101548.jpeg)
In this picture I just set the structure onto the sidewalk piece without gluing it into place. Consequently, there's a light leak coming out from under the wall to the right of the office. I intentionally left the light leak there ::) to make a point of it. Corners and around window frames are other potential light leak sources. Using the ceiling card method for installing LEDs usually takes care of any light leaks from around eaves or roof peaks.
Well that about wraps that project up.
Questions?
-slim
That looks great Bill. I hope we can rise to your level with our lighting projects.
Thanks!
Thanks a lo. Can we see a picture of the battery connector ? Where would I get one? Thanks. Jim
Quote from: jrmueller on June 04, 2014, 06:03:33 PM
Thanks a lo. Can we see a picture of the battery connector ? Where would I get one? Thanks. Jim
Jim - that's a plain old nine volt battery connector. You should be able to find them at Radio Shack
-slim
Wow - Slim you have been busy today. Nice thread!
Thanks Slim. Time to light up the world. Jim
Nice job on the lighting, Slim. My question is, where the arrow is on the left side of the pics where you attached the negative lead, the positive leads come together, shouldn't this cause a short circuit? How do the electrons know to turn left and go to the negative lead and not the right and short the thing out? I never did well in physics. :-\
Jeff
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on June 05, 2014, 03:27:24 PM
Nice job on the lighting, Slim. My question is, where the arrow is on the left side of the pics where you attached the negative lead, the positive leads come together, shouldn't this cause a short circuit? How do the electrons know to turn left and go to the negative lead and not the right and short the thing out? I never did well in physics. :-\
Jeff
I'm not sure I follow Jeff. I don't understand what you mean by "where the positive leads come together." I have little "+" marks all over the card to indicate where the positive lead of a LED or Current Limiter will go. You'll see a gap in the path where there is a "+" mark. If you look at some of the pictures after the copper tape is down you'll also see that I placed black dots to indicate the negative side of the component. Some of my earlier pencil markings got covered over with the tape.
See if some of the later pictures with the tape explain things a little better. In the meantime I'm going to make another picture/sketch that might help bridge the gap from the theory to practice. Sometimes it can seem a lot like a puzzle. :o
-slim
The Radio Shack website does not come up wit "copper tape" or anything close to that. Where do you source yours, please?
Another question to test Slim's knowledge -
Do you know how copper wire was invented?
Two lawyers fighting over a penny.
Quote from: BandOGuy on June 05, 2014, 04:35:36 PM
The Radio Shack website does not come up wit "copper tape" or anything close to that. Where do you source yours, please?
I sell it. $9.95/roll
A roll is 1/4" wide, 15' long. I always cut off short lengths (about 4" or so) and split it down the middle to get two pieces. That way you essentially double the length of tape.
Check my site - Microlumina.com this weekend. I'll get it listed. I've been selling the stuff at shows but never got around to listing it on the website. I'm lazy. ::)
-slim
Slim. I'll be ordering a roll. Jim
I figured it out. I was confused by the one side that looked like a "closed loop". :)
Jeff
Quote from: Slim Jerkins on June 06, 2014, 09:47:56 AM
Quote from: BandOGuy on June 05, 2014, 04:35:36 PM
The Radio Shack website does not come up wit "copper tape" or anything close to that. Where do you source yours, please?
I sell it. $9.95/roll
A roll is 1/4" wide, 15' long. I always cut off short lengths (about 4" or so) and split it down the middle to get two pieces. That way you essentially double the length of tape.
Check my site - Microlumina.com this weekend. I'll get it listed. I've been selling the stuff at shows but never got around to listing it on the website. I'm lazy. ::)
-slim
Slim
When will we see "Light Bites" number 3? You did a great job on the first two.