I've been posting this build on the kitforums.com website but it appears a lot of people moved over to this forum. To catchup, here is where I'm at so far...
Alan
Fantastic overall! Great job on the lighting.
John
Quote from: Cuse on October 22, 2014, 05:55:23 AM
Fantastic overall! Great job on the lighting.
John
Ditto to what Cuse said!
Tom ;D
Love it Alan! The structures look wonderful. The lighting is really cool too. 8)
Hey:
Looks really great so far. Like the boxing sign.
Karl
Great job on those structures Alan, Your going to have to give me tips on you do your lighting. Hope to see more of your work
Let me know how you made out with the water.
Sam
Great work Alan..... 8)
Thanks for all the nice comments. Yeah Sam, I'm currently in the R&D stage of trying to find the best water. I have three samples I'm currently building:
1 - Gloss Med
2 - Golden Gel Medium
3 - Modge Podge
I took your advice and used my breath (or actually a Blow Dreyer, to simulate the same effect) to get rid of the bubbles. It appears to work on most of them.
Best!
Alan
Looking Good Alan
-slim
Alan...
Great structures.
Welcome aboard.
see ya
Bob
Hi Alan,
Very nice building.
Personnaly, I'm working with Golden soft gel gloss.
Very easy to use, easy to sculpt without air bubble is doing gently.
EricQuébec city
Hi Alan
The build looks great so far! And welcome.
Thanks for the messages. Here are the photos from the Peepshow. I'm now just trying to finish up the roofs on the Boxing Gym. After that, I may have to start working on the scenery and wait on the Mermaid Bar and Grill building since I'm missing a wall in the kit and haven't heard back from Doug in over a week.
Alan
Hang on - Doug's too busy readin' the jokes I forward to him!!
Very nice work!
Thanks for all the nice comments. Just finished the top of the Boxing Gym. The side stairs along with the stone basement, an alarm and some posters is all that remains. Next up is the Mermaid Bar and Grill. The kit is missing one of the walls for this next building. I've sent Doug 3 emails over the past 2 weeks and no response. If anyone happens to talk with him, would you please let me know.
Happy Viewing!
Alan
Just finished the little details on the front of the Boxing Gym. I also completed the stone foundation. For the white mortar lines, I used Roberts Brick Mortar Formula. http://www.robertsbrickmortar.com/
Its a liquid solution you apply to any stone or brick surface. I then take a hair dryer to speed up the drying process. Once its dry, take a damp rag and wipe off the white (now chalky) substance from the face of the brick or stone which leaves behind great looking mortar lines. If you look at my foundation, the left side wont be seen since (hence no mortar) because the building will be built on a sloping road. The only thing still left are the basement window and the side stair case that goes on the right side of the building. The reason the building isn't currently sitting flush to the foundation is because I have 13 wires running out the back for the 13 LEDs that are in the Boxing Gym. All these wires cause the building to be slightly raised in one corner. This wont be an issue when the building is installed on the diorama as the wires will go straight down and under the building.
Next up is the Mermaid Bar. Since I haven't heard from Doug in two weeks, I'm going to assume he's dead. Therefore, I'm going to attempt to recreate the missing wall using card board. The only concern I have is that the rest of the walls are made of thick wood and since a spackle is being applied to the outside of these walls to represent stucco, I sure hope my homemade wall doesn't warp. I'm going to brace the heck out of it with 1/4 pieces of wood. If someone else has any other suggestions on what material I should use to build this wall, please let me know.
Thanks!
Alan
Hi Nextceo:
Boxing Gym is Looking good. Nice detail.
Karl
Try foamboard for that wall. Won't warp like cardboard. Get it at Staples or any hobby shop.
Thanks for the feedback Karl. Dave, is Foam Board that same thing as Gator Board?
Alan
Quote from: nextceo on November 01, 2014, 12:51:51 PM
Thanks for the feedback Karl. Dave, is Foam Board that same thing as Gator Board?
Alan
Alan and others....Gatorfoam is not even similar to the foam board product....the foam board will warp and deteriorate over time...I now use nothing but Gatorfoam.....it is more expensive, but you will not have a problem over the years of use or storage.....more info is available at www.gatorfoam.net (http://www.gatorfoam.net) All of my builds, displays, bases etc., are now done with Gatorfoam exclusively.....
...just sayin'... :P
Thanks for tip Jeff...yep I agree with your comment. I too use Gatorboard for all of my dioramas.
Here is a picture of the Completed Boxing Gym.
Alan
Hi Alan,
I scratchbuilt the Mermaid Bar a few weeks ago and used 1/16" plain basswood sheet material. If you don't have plain, regular clapboard siding, wrong (plain) side out works too. Brace as for wood structure or as per instructions with the kit.
Geo2rge aka timbob60
Gatorfoam is the best for prewtty much anything for modeling. I'll never use anything but gatorfoam for structure bases.
Of course, Jeff has been a little modest since Gatorfoam Dave is Jeffy's cousin.
Just sayin ----
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 02, 2014, 07:48:40 AM
Gatorfoam is the best for prewtty much anything for modeling. I'll never use anything but gatorfoam for structure bases.
Of course, Jeff has been a little modest since Gatorfoam Dave is Jeffy's cousin.
Just sayin ----
Tom ;D
...hehe...keepin' it in the family...
Nice work Alan as usual.
Sam
Thanks Sam...what's the status on the water??
Alan
Quote from: jlgrove on November 02, 2014, 07:52:43 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 02, 2014, 07:48:40 AM
Gatorfoam is the best for prewtty much anything for modeling. I'll never use anything but gatorfoam for structure bases.
Of course, Jeff has been a little modest since Gatorfoam Dave is Jeffy's cousin.
Just sayin ----
Tom ;D
...hehe...keepin' it in the family...
Ah Ha.....nepotism running rampant on the forum..... ;D
Quote from: nextceo on November 02, 2014, 08:42:43 AM
Thanks Sam...what's the status on the water??
Alan
Hi Alan, Still working on it. I'll e mail you a picture when I get a little further along, but coming along OK so far.
Sam
Just finished the Mermaid Bar and Grill. I've attached a few pics of the lights I added when the building still hadn't been completed. I think I'm going to have a couple of the lights on the upper billboards go unlight in my final diorama to give it a run down / bar type feel. I'll post some pictures of the building tomorrow when the light is better.
That's all for now...
Alan
Here is a better photo of the finished building minus all the lights being on...
Now that all the buildings have been completed, its now onto the Diorama. The time period of the Diorama is the Fall of 1940 in New England. The canal on the left hand side of the diorama will be lower than all the buildings on the right. Doug uses Pink Foam painted a concrete color for the canal and sea walls. I've elected to go with Stone Retaining Walls for the Canal from Woodland Scenic and Stone Walls from New England Brownstone (nebrownstone.com) for the sea wall. If you goto their site, you wont find the 1 inch stone walls for sale but if you email Russ, he will make them for you upon request.
I'm going to have to cut the plaster castings. Does anyone have advice on how best to do that to get the cleanest cut?
Next up, the stacking of the pink foam.
Alan
I've finished painting and weathering the Stone Walls for the Canal. I'm adding a Shanty with a Campfire and some Hobos at the bottom of the Canal. I used some parts from the FOS Kit Wytek Repair along with a bunch of scrap wood from my scrap box to scratch build the Shanty. The blue tarp on top of the Shanty is made from a tea bag. I painted it blue and then used weathering powders and then Weldbond Glue to glue it into place.
That's all for now...
Alan
Excellent weathering, the shanty is great, hobo paradise.
I decided the side vent on the shanty was too big so I put in a smaller vent. I also just finished installing the track and put the finishing touches on the inside of the tunnel. I have now put the roof on it making any changes inside the tunnel difficult to do at this point. The next step is the cut a hole in the retaining wall and install a pipe...aka a straw painted black. I will then create a drainage ditch by taking an exacto knife and picking out a portion of the pink foam base. I will then use Woodland Scenic Paste to coat the bottom of the ditch. This is important since I will be pouring Woodland Scenic Real Water in this ditch and wthout the paste, the foam would degas over time wrecking the water.
That's all for now...
Alan
Just finished up with the "Terraforming" portion of the Diorama. I created a drainage ditch next to the retention wall by picking out the form with an exacto knife. From there I coated the bottom with two layers of Woodland Scenic Paste. Next, I used Sculptamold to shape and give the ditch character instead of it being just a straight line. I used Plaster for the rocks and Sculptamold for the ground. For those of you that have never used one or both these products here is the difference:
- Plaster
Cons: Heavier and gives you less time to work with...probably 10 minutes or less. Also more difficult to work with since its "sticky".
Pros: Great for carving and gives you sharp edges like those found in rocks. Also crumbles, again great for rock formations. It holds Indian Ink wash and gives you a solid color. Drys quickly to allow you to move onto the next step. In addition to free lancing my rock formations, I will also create some rock formations with molds from Woodland Scenic and then glue those formations in place. From there, I work the plaster around these formations. Once the plaster begins to dry, I use an AWL (I think that's how its spelled) and I chisel various angles into the plaster. I also use an exacto knife to carve lines into the rock and to "smooth out" the plaster by shaving it down in areas that look unnatural.
- Sculptamold
Cons: Bad for carving and when dry, its still kinda soft. Takes a long time to dry. Probably 24 hours. Doesn't hold color well. Tough to make a very thin layer. When I stain it with the Indian Ink wash, its still appears as light gray.
Pros: Light and easy to work with. Working time can be 20-30 minutes. Just keep dipping you paint brush or spackle tool in water and run it across the Sculptamold to reshape.
Next up is to weather the rock formation and start adding Fall Type grasses. Actually I've already done this and will post pictures tomorrow. Cant give you everything at once...
Thanks for looking!
Alan
Here are a couple of completed pics of the bushes and grasses I added to the rocks I made yesterday. Remember, I'm going for a Fall Setting hence the muted colors. Once I start nearing the end of the diorama, I'll probably add a few trees near the rock formation.
That's all for now...
Alan
PS I need to figure out how to adjust this new camera as the pictures need brighting...
Really nice work. Thanks for sharing.
John
Wow! Very nice work indeed. I really like the blue tarp on the roof being held down by the old tire and board. Well, to be honest I really like everything. ;D
Looks like your doing another great job on this one Alan,. Cant wait to see the finished diorama.
Sam
Alan,
Really enjoying this thread, thanks for taking the time to do it!
Tom
Thanks for the words of encouragement!! Hey Sam, any updates on your harbor scene?
Alan
Quote from: nextceo on November 20, 2014, 12:19:09 PM
Thanks for the words of encouragement!! Hey Sam, any updates on your harbor scene?
Alan
No new updates yet Alan, I'm working on a 3D backdrop for it now, and all will be scratch built, so it will be a while yet.
Sam
Just finished the waste area next to the sea wall and the stream bed next to the tracks. Next up is to pour Woodland Scenics Real Water into the stream and begin with my first layer of Modge Podge for the Ocean. I also hope to have the roads in by tomorrow. I will be using Durhams Water Putty for the Roads.
All for now...
Alan
Excellent work Alan! Thanks for the detailed commentary during the build.
Hey Mark, thanks for the comment.
I applied the Durham's Water Putty for the roads. The working time isn't bad. Probably 15-20 minutes. As long as you keep applying water to it, you can work with it. The next step is to let it dry overnight and to sand it smooth in the morning. The next step after that is to paint it the color Rain Gray. Weathering it with chalks will come near the end of the diorama. I also created "running water" coming out of the drain pipe by squeezing some clear GE Caulk on wax paper last night. This morning I cut out the shape I wanted my water to look like out of Clear Duralar and then glued the dried clear caulk to it. After that, I cut the caulk to match the underlying Clear Duralar Shape. I also poured the Woodland Scenic Realistic water into the ditch - it looks milky blue but will dry clear. Once its all dry...probably tomorrow...I'll coat the caulk with clear gloss and add Woodland Scenic Water Effects to the stream I poured to make it look like its moving.
That's all for now...
Alan
Always a pleasure to see your progress on a dio. Very inspiring work.
Eric QUébec city
Thanks Eric. By the way, did you ever finish that Red Hook Wharf Build? If so, can you please send me final pictures?
Thanks again!
Alan
Alan, The ditch looks awesome, great job.
Sam
Thanks Sam...
Some more detail on how I created the road. You mix up the Durham's Powder in a bowl with some water. I applied it with a putty knife. It has the same type of consistency as plaster except it doesn't absorb paint at different levels like plaster allowing for a solid color when painted. I attached a picture below in case someone doesn't know what a putty knife looks like. I also attached some more pictures of the layout as I wait for the roads to dry.
Alan
Durham's Water Putty has saved many a carpenter's butts!!! ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: nextceo on November 22, 2014, 05:40:00 PM
Thanks Eric. By the way, did you ever finish that Red Hook Wharf Build? If so, can you please send me final pictures?
Thanks again!
Alan
Hi Alan,
All the building on the Redhook wharf project are done, and the dio is only complete at 70 %.
I will take some pictures soon and will put them on the dio thread.
Thanks for your interest
Eric Québec city
Hey Gang,
Today I sanded the roads smooth with 220 Sandpaper...well pretty smooth...I left some variation in the road since no road is perfectly flat. I then applied 2 coats of Rain Gray and applied some gray and white powders to get an idea of how the roads are going to look. I'll need to redo them again later since the grass on the side of the road always seems to leak onto the road creating a mess. To create the cracks you see, I used an exacto knife to cut them into the Durham Water Putty once it was dry. Then to make them "pop", I simply used a Number 2 pencil and traced over my cracks I created. Make sure you trace over your cracks with a pencil after applying the powders otherwise you'll wipe out the pencil lines with the powders and brush. I also put in a few pot holes and filled them with gravel and some grass. In addition to the road, I applied the first coat of Modge Podge. Immediately after applying the Modge Podge I went over the water with a Hair Dryer on low for 3-5 minutes to help pop the air bubbles. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. If you don't do this, you will find by about the 3rd coat, the air bubbles will make your water appear gray...you don't want this. I learned the hard way on my Salt Neck Build and had to rip up the water and start over. I typically allow 24 hours between each coat. I've tried numerous ways to create water and have found the "Dave Frary" way to be the best...with once exception, use that Hair Dreyer to pop the bubbles. I cant believe he didn't have issues with bubbles...
Here is a link to Dave creating his water...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgWt137zpkQ
That's all for now...
Alan
Let there be light...
Finally got some of the lights hooked up. The first 2 pictures are of a campfire that will eventually have homeless guys hanging around it. I used a campfire simulator from ngineering.com that looks great. The two yellow lights flicker back and forth to simulate fire while the orange light constantly stays on to simulate burning coals. The car in the foreground is a Jordan Kit I built and weathered. As you can see from the missing engine, cracked windows and missing rear tire, its not going anywhere. The next 3 pictures show the lights on Brody's and Qunits. I just noticed from the picture that the gooseneck lights on Quints aren't lined up quite right. I'll have to make sure to adjust them. I also built and installed 2 Channel Markers from ModeltechStudios.com. I ran Red LEDs up each of them and created the round bulb look by applying Ruby Red Gallery Glass. Its a liquid found in a bottle at Hobby Lobby. I then hooked them up to a Channel Simulator where the red lights flash at different speeds. This simulator also came from ngineering.com. The water is starting to look good and finally getting some texture to it. I've applied 5 coats of Modge Podge so far. I'm constantly battling the little gray bubbles. In addition to running the hair dryer after each application, I also use a small brush and try an pop as many of them as I can before the Modge Podge drys.
That's all for now...
Alan
Alan superlative work. I'm definitely going to pinch your teabag tarp.
Spectacular!
John
Fantastic modeling! Just Awesome.
Tom ;D
Thanks John, Jerry, Barry and Tom!
Alan
Alan,
Outstanding modeling! Thank you for the detailed explanations of how you achieve these wonderful results!
Alright, tonite I added some vines growing up the Stone Retention Wall of the Canal. I used a product from Scenic Express called MiniNatur Plane Tree Foliage. I included a picture of one of the labels. Because I'm modeling in Fall, I used 3 different colors; Red, Brown and a late Summer Green. The product comes as one sheet and from there I cut off various widths and lengths and then pull those strips apart with my fingers to "stretch" out the vines. I used Weldbond Glue to hold them to the wall. I first tried Elmers White glue but that didn't work. I also pulled some individual leaves off of this product and scattered them across the diorama. The leaves are highly detailed creating for a neat effect.
That's all for now...
Alan
Looks great! All of those details really makes the scene.
Your diorama is turning out great. Nice scenery work.
Jeff
Just installed the Peep Show and the Boxing Gym. The issue I have is that I blew out the light in the Marque Sign so I'm going to have to find another way to install a new one. Patience is definitely required with this hobby. The lighted street lamp is from Tichy Trains Group. They are $29.95 for 3 but definitely worth it...
Alan
Just fixed the Marque Sign.
Alan
Finished up with the 2 layer Billboard and of course added lights to it. When adding the weeds you see on the parking lot and sidewalk, I found the best way to do this is to spread a little weldbond glue to the areas you want weeds. Then I sprinkle a few shades of turf grass over those areas. After waiting 30 mins, I go back and either wipe away the excess with a brush or I use a vacuum cleaner. The white area behind the Billboard is Sculptamold. Once that dries, I'll finish that area off with grasses now and then bushes and trees at the very end. I'll also finish up with the road at the end.
Alan
Finished most of the wiring today. Just have 2 lights left to go...
Alan
Amazing lighting, the Boxing school is fantastic
Thanks for the comments. I finished off the grass tonight. Not much to see so instead I'm posting a few more night shots...one includes my New Haven Passenger Car with lights and passengers.
That's all for now...
Alan
Wonderful scene Alan.....I really like the way you lit it all up, looks spectacular. 8) [size=78%] [/size]
Looks awesome, Alan!
Cheers, Mark.
Alan this is amazing.Just amazing
Night shots are always fun...
thanx
Bob
Thanks for the comments. Next step is to start building the vehicles....
Alan
You nailed in Alan!
I always wanted to see that kit lit up and missed the cut before they were all gone. Awesome job!
-slim
Hey Slim,
Thanks for the kind words. I sent you a few emails and never heard back from you. I need a new low temp Soldering Iron with a Chisel Tip. Can I get that thru you?
Thanks!
Alan
Quote from: nextceo on December 18, 2014, 11:53:09 PM
Hey Slim,
Thanks for the kind words. I sent you a few emails and never heard back from you. I need a new low temp Soldering Iron with a Chisel Tip. Can I get that thru you?
Thanks!
Alan
Got you covered Alan. Your emails might have gotten filtered into my "people-who-make-lighted-models-better-than-me" list. It's a list that keeps growing. And that's a good thing!
-slim
Very nicely done. Like the lighting.
Karl
Thanks Karl,
Yeah, the diorama has now been completed...I just ran the telephone wire yesterday using the stuff called EZline. Had to do a few of the lines over again 3 different times to get the right hanging look. I just need to finish the 6 vehicles. As soon as they are done, I'll post the final pictures.
http://www.berkshirejunction.com/
Alan
Just finishing up the vehicles today and tomorrow. These are all Sylvan kits and are just about as difficult to assemble as Jordan kits. The tires are made of rubber which you think would be neat...well its not...they have rubber burrs all over them and when you try and sand them down, they give you flat spots on the tire. The body castings are loaded with spurs and if you get too deep with your exacto knife when shaving them off, you cut into the body. The frame was warped so I had to snap it in half and reglue it with the correct angle. I definitely have a better appreciation for what Dan aka Raymo can do with these kits.
So far I completed a 1937 Coal Truck for Brody and Martin Coal.
Final Pics for this diorama should come within the next week or so...
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FBuild77_zpsdcf63c6d.jpg&hash=fbd89552e88c6aada771ff8558e9b285b875c2e6) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Build77_zpsdcf63c6d.jpg.html)
Alan..
Great photo..... you sure have grunge figured out.
thanx
Bob
Hi Alan:
the truck looks great. Just A suggestion. Also weather your people. Hit them with light A&I then dry-brush them with a light gray.
Karl
Alright. Finally Done. Here is a picture I snapped with my iPhone of the completed diorama. The Final pictures (which will be taken with my good camera) to be posted later this week.
Alan
PS Next up...Execution Rocks...Lighted...
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FPic1_zpsc2daf90a.jpg&hash=598fd7bdf368d553642383823c4be56d8a0ad4fc) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Pic1_zpsc2daf90a.jpg.html)
Great job. Very excited to see you jump into an Execution Rocks build too!
John
Thanks John!
Alan
Great job
Started taking final photos of my diorama. In case anyone is interested in how this is done, I attached a picture of my setup....
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FDisplay_zps49a8a4e9.jpg&hash=65ef2834100e4838158f6c6f8f0265c9864307e2) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Display_zps49a8a4e9.jpg.html)
After I take a picture, I use the free graphics program GIMP. Its just like photoshop but its free. It allows me to use the selection tool to select the white areas. From there, I can add in a sky background. It also comes with a ton of filters. Here is an example. I then gave the pictures a cartoon filter...
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FPic1_zps3db8539e.jpg&hash=3f34a1e1dcba55ca25385e0be4dbd55d9c754d55) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Pic1_zps3db8539e.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FPic2_zpsd6bdd034.jpg&hash=2fcfd8ff7158097fe261516b53edc11ea9b8a73d) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Pic2_zpsd6bdd034.jpg.html)
Thank you for the info:)
Very clever Alan, Looks great
Sam
Hi Nextceo:
WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!! Very very nicely done. All the colors go well together. The diorama is just beautiful.
Karl
Very well done indeed.
Tom ;D
Super cool.
Jaime
Quote from: nextceo on January 04, 2015, 07:47:21 PM
Just finishing up the vehicles today and tomorrow. These are all Sylvan kits and are just about as difficult to assemble as Jordan kits. The tires are made of rubber which you think would be neat...well its not...they have rubber burrs all over them and when you try and sand them down, they give you flat spots on the tire. The body castings are loaded with spurs and if you get too deep with your exacto knife when shaving them off, you cut into the body. The frame was warped so I had to snap it in half and reglue it with the correct angle. I definitely have a better appreciation for what Dan aka Raymo can do with these kits.
So far I completed a 1937 Coal Truck for Brody and Martin Coal.
Final Pics for this diorama should come within the next week or so...
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FBuild77_zpsdcf63c6d.jpg&hash=fbd89552e88c6aada771ff8558e9b285b875c2e6) (http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/nextceo1/Build77_zpsdcf63c6d.jpg)
Yeah, not a big fan of the tires myself, probably why Chester buys extra wheels from Jordan. As for the frame,I built one of these 37's in the past week and had to soak the frame twice in hot water to get the bend out of it. I've also done what you did cutting the frame to straighten out the twist. Clare is pretty good at swapping out stuff that is bad, I have a bag to give him at Springfield. The truck looks great though considering the problems you had. Raymo
Dan,
Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, I appreciate you tips you gave me.
Alan