Thought I would share my build of of Fos Scale Models Bandit's Roost.
While not a complete start to finish. I did break the box on 11/30/2020. I planned to follow the building order of the instructions, but soon discovered I was missing the side walls to Vallon Paint. So, I moved on to the Harrison and Rochelle portion of the kit. I decided to post this build since I encountered some issues that might help others when making the kit. As per usual, Fos Scale instructions are rather sparse so I'll try to include the 'missing' areas and errors I find within the instructions. I'll also try to include the paints, techniques, and misc. info that helped me along. All pictures provided come from my iPhone.
I didn't take pictures during the initial stage. I had already painted the main walls to Harrison and Rochelle, and added the banner sign along the tops of the walls.
I used DecoArt Celery Green DA208 for the main walls adding the paint like I might do when dry brushing over two or three layers of medium India Ink with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol.
I applied the banner signs using thinned matte Mod Podge. Coating the building surface as well as the paper sign. I used 220 grit sandpaper to thin the sign before applying. Then used smooth toothpicks to get the sign into the groves of the wood.
Hey, CK. Looks good so far. The wall color looks great. No way would I have thought that a celery coat would look that muted. Guess the inkahol dulls it down very nicely.
At this point, I had already assembled the walls, and installed the windows. I decided to avoid window treatments. I added some weathering powders to the walls in small amounts in various areas to add a little color. I like the subtle variations to give it some added character.
The following is a photo of the rear door. After priming the door with Rustoleum Cameo. I applied weathering powders over a base coat of DecoArt Charcoal Grey DA088. I apply the powders directly over the wet paint. You to have to work fast, and the effect may be too much the taste of some modelers. I clear coated with Krylon Matte Finish, then added two thin coats of AK Interactive Heavy Chipping AK 089. I coated the door with MSP Core Colors Honed Steel 09953 and let it dry. I then applied some water with a brush, and removed the paint with a stiff brush and a tooth pick. It was my first time using chipping fluid, and thought it came out okay.
Here's a photo of the finished door, minus window glazing.
Fast forward to the roof. I purchased 50 sheets of black Tru Ray construction paper from Hobby Lobby for $1.99. Using the Jason Jensen method, I lightly sprayed Krylon Rust Preventive grey primer 7517 over a sheet of the black construction paper, cut it into strips, then lightly sanded the surface in a circular motion. Since this is a flat roof, it didn't require sanding in a downward motion, nor distressing the edges as Jason does in his video. I butted the strips together, then using Formula 560 canopy glue, mixed 50/50 with Decoart Charcoal Grey DA088. I then added the tar lines.
Excellent work. That door is spectacular
This next shot includes the roof caps. Doug used 10 x 2's for the ridge caps, but I wanted to add 'copper' flashing over the ridge caps. I used a paper maybe two to three times the thickness of regular paper. Sorry, I don't know the brand. I folded the paper over a of piece square styrene, then used a Bronze colored sharpie over the front and back of the paper. After it dried. I applied thinned washes of MSP Core Color Copper 09304. Use thin coats. You could also use any craft paint similar to Americana Indian Turquoise DA307 for the same effect. I used two or three coats over the ridge caps, and the corner pieces where the slate shingles meet.
That's a really nice looking kit.Dennis
Next up is the boiler house. This is where I found the back wall section for the boiler house to be too long. You'll notice in the picture that it extends too far. I later cut this portion away.
These are the boiler house walls and window sections stained with India Ink and alcohol.
Boiler house walls were painted white with craft paint, and the windows painted white. I wanted to represent windows that were metal framed. I didn't prime the windows, I stippled on the white paint, then added a wash of Winsor and Newton 552 Raw Sienna thinned with odorless Turpenoid. I used a toothpick to add small amounts of Winsor and Newton Burnt Umber 076, and let it blend together. I also scored the area that will be cut away from the back boiler window section that was too long.
Here's another look at the window frames, with the extra portion removed.
This is a test fitting of the boiler house to the rear section of the Harrison and Rochelle building. The steel freight door is installed on the main building, along with the small tarpaper add on to the right. I used the same Jason Jenson method for the roof on the extension from the main building. I used a red primer, but didn't weather it drastically. I kept it low key. I don't have any in process shots during that portion. I wasn't sure I would list this build in the first place.
That's all for today. I realized it's getting late. Gotta work tomorrow. Hope you're enjoying my journey.
Thanks for the replies so far.
Mark
Mark,
See you spent a few hours on this FOS kit. Nice start !
Will look forward to more updates. Your profile said Batavia, Illinois...we lived in McHenry between 20 and 30 years back.
Tommy
Looking forward to seeing you work thru the kit problems. ;)
Beautiful modeling and how to instructions for the paint. I love the back door.
Beautiful work and a very nice (and fast) start on this magnificent kit. I did a build thread on it last year and it remains my favorite kit overall. You are certainly doing it justice. I also noticed the oversized boiler house wall and had to cut it down to size.
--Opa George
Very nice indeed. I just started playing around with that Heavy Chipping Fluid myself. Interesting stuff. You did a great job with it. :)
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on January 06, 2021, 01:20:57 AM
Mark,
See you spent a few hours on this FOS kit. Nice start !
Will look forward to more updates. Your profile said Batavia, Illinois...we lived in McHenry between 20 and 30 years back.
Tommy
Yep, but I'm planning my escape from Illinois. Lived here my whole life, but the taxes are killing me. It's crazy.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 06, 2021, 09:24:04 AM
Beautiful modeling and how to instructions for the paint. I love the back door.
Thanks, I'm new to the chipping fluid. Always interested in new methods, so many options left for me to discover.
Quote from: Opa George on January 06, 2021, 04:47:24 PM
Beautiful work and a very nice (and fast) start on this magnificent kit. I did a build thread on it last year and it remains my favorite kit overall. You are certainly doing it justice. I also noticed the oversized boiler house wall and had to cut it down to size.
--Opa George
Thanks, this kit is my winter project. One of many actually, but this is the biggest dog for the season.
Quote from: ReadingBob on January 06, 2021, 05:29:30 PM
Very nice indeed. I just started playing around with that Heavy Chipping Fluid myself. Interesting stuff. You did a great job with it. :)
Thanks. I've had the chipping fluid sitting around for some time, and finally put it to use.
Here's a shot of the Harrison and Rochelle sign. I used the Decoart Charcoal Grey as a base, and applied weathering powders to the back of the sign while the paint was still wet. I did 3 or 4 letters at a time.
I sealed the back with clear flat, then placed the sign upon some blue painters tape. I applied a finish of white paint to the front of the sign, and weathered with the Winsor and Newton oils mentioned previously. Since Doug didn't provide a template for applying the sign without the little tabs being attached. I removed the sign from the tape, secured the tape, removed the letters, and used the tape as my template to apply each letter individually. I touched up the paint as needed.
Here is the building as it stands. I obviously left out some steps in-between. I extended the shingles towards the very front of the building, and used 2 x 6's to trim around the base of the tower. Two things that Doug did not do. I felt this was a more believable method of construction. I would use caution when using the delicate lattice pieces that make up the tower. I would prime both sides, and ensure every bit is secured with canopy glue, super glue or similar, since water based paint could potentially warp them.
This happened to me, as some of the pieces warped when I applied my thinned aged 'copper' washes. They mostly returned to shape. I utilized the same bronze sharpie, and wash method I used for the copper ridge caps. My thin washes warped the pieces since I failed to secure them entirely. Lesson learned.
I used some brass wire to help secure the stack on top of the boiler house. It stands roughly 13 scale feet. I included some small pads where the wires connected to the roof. Not completely finished with weathering, but close. I also attached the sign, chimney, some brass 'vents', and the walkup made up of mixed color 2 x 10's.
This is the 'business' end of the structure. No signage yet.
Groovy.
Thats a huge complex. You must have a large layout for it.
Jaime
Here's a shot of the other side with the large rooftop sign and tarpaper shed installed. For the corrugated roof, I use Campbell's. I prefer it over the paper ones provided with the kit. Both have their advantages, but I feel the Campbell's is more to scale. I prime them with grey auto primer on both sides. Then use a thin wash of black craft paint. I'll also do the edges on the underside where appropriate. I apply the afore mentioned Charcoal Grey craft paint, and apply the weathering powders directly over the paint. I try to use the darker colors towards the bottom, and the lighter fresh rust towards the top. It makes for a fairly quick and easy application. Once it's dry, I'll apply some pan pastels where necessary. I use a light tan or white on some of the panels to better highlight the rust colors. I sometimes drybrush a light grey upon the panels before using the pan pastels. Like anything in this hobby, there are a hundreds of methods to do any project.
Quote from: NEMMRRC on January 06, 2021, 09:55:03 PM
Groovy.
Thats a huge complex. You must have a large layout for it.
Jaime
No layout yet. That happens after the move. I'm building dioramas, and per the Bob Van Gelder method of South River Model Works, will build the layout around them when that time comes.
Hey:
That kit is coming along very nicely. Keep up the good work.
Karl
Great looking build.
Beautiful build all the way. I really like the rear door with the rust. Great job.
Tom ;D
Really nice job on the building. I have this kit to build sometime so thanks for pointing out the wrinkles.
Mike :)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 07, 2021, 06:57:12 AM
Great looking build.
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 07, 2021, 09:28:21 AM
Beautiful build all the way. I really like the rear door with the rust. Great job.
Tom ;D
Quote from: madharry on January 07, 2021, 10:40:02 AM
Really nice job on the building. I have this kit to build sometime so thanks for pointing out the wrinkles.
Mike :)
Quote from: postalkarl on January 07, 2021, 02:35:55 AM
Hey:
That kit is coming along very nicely. Keep up the good work.
Karl
Thanks to everyone. Up next is the annex to the Harrison and Rochelle. As before, I don't have many in-process photos. I started this before I decided to post the build.
Here is a shot of the Campbell's corrugated roofing. After cutting them to size, I primed them with grey Rustoleum. Then gave them a wash of thinned black craft paint. Next, once dry, I applied thinned Charcoal Grey craft paint, and applied the various rust colored pigments directly over the paint. It's a fairly quick process. These are brand new Campbell's corrugated, and when I tried to use Radio Shacks Ferric Chloride on some of them, it ate them up so fast I couldn't save them. The ones that I managed to pull out in time were transparent. It just ate them alive. I didn't have problems in the past with this method, so maybe somethings changed on Campbell's end.
Here is the annex with the roof panels added, along with an used vent from a South River Model Works kit. This is the final structure outlined in the directions for this kit. The only issues I had were the building of the second and third floors. It's not mentioned in the directions to leave yourself the ability to include the corner posts open on the second and third floors. I built each section separately, and if you look closely, you'll notice the corner posts end at each floor level on the clapboard end. I built all three sections on their own, and stacked them.
I recommend building the second and third floor, combining them, then adding your roofing and vents etc. Then adding the first floor support posts, and adding the small staircase access, the first floor last. I didn't use the cut out template provided with the kit when making up the supports. If you do use the cut out template, your cutting of the posts and supports must be spot on. I recommend using the printed template included on instruction sheet B. It allows you some leeway if you're post cutting isn't perfect.
For the second floor I used Americana Indian Turquoise DA087 applied with a sponge over two or three coats of India Ink and alcohol. Next, I added some white craft paint to the Turquoise to bring it down a shade or two, then sponged on this 'custom' color sparingly. On the second floor, with the clapboard siding, I applied AK Interactive Heavy Chipping fluid over the India Ink stained wood in two thin coats. Brush applied some white, let it dry, then applied a thin coat of water, and used a toothpick to remove the paint for chipping. I used AK Interactive Streaking Grime AK012 and Moss Deposits AK676 over selected areas on the structure, moving them about with odorless Turpenoid, along with adding some weathering powders.
Next up is Curtis Gas. I could use some help/advice on the stucco. I've used Liquitex Modeling Paste in the past, and I've heard of a Rustoleum spray product that replicates stucco. Included with the kit is a bag of water putty. Never used it before, so any experience/advice would be appreciated. Here's another shot of the annex.
Quote from: craftsmankits on January 12, 2021, 10:40:30 PM
Next up is Curtis Gas. I could use some help/advice on the stucco. I've used Liquitex Modeling Paste in the past, and I've heard of a Rustoleum spray product that replicates stucco. Included with the kit is a bag of water putty. Never used it before, so any experience/advice would be appreciated. Here's another shot of the annex.
That looks absolutely wonderful! I have a few things I want to try now based on your results. ;)
Regarding using the water putty for the stucco. I like it but I apply it a little differently than what the instructions typically call for. The instructions call for mixing the powder with water until you get a peanut butter like consistency and then dabbing it on with a stiff, short bristled brush. First off the powder is Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. I bought a can of it 20+ years ago for $2 or $3 dollars and still have more than half a can left. Instead of mixing it with water I use a cheap craft store acrylic paint that will be my finish color and dispense a blob of that onto a palette of some sort. Then I take my brush, dip it in the paint and then dip it in the powder. I mix the two together on the palette adding more paint or more putty until I get a thinner consistency than called for in the instructions. I mix just enough to start working on the wall. I mix more as I go. I try to get a tooth paste like consistency or maybe a bit thinner. Then I start dabbing it on the wall. I prefer a thin coat vs. a heavy thick coat. Really I'm just turning the paint into a textured paint with this method. If you pick up a can of the water putty you'll have more than enough to practice on a piece of scrap wood, cardboard, etc. until you get a feel for it. Hope this helps.
I found this picture from a previous build thread I did that may give a little feel for what I'm trying to describe above. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/56-251219120235-42219317.jpeg)
Thanks Bob. I'll give that a try. I'm keeping track of your Moscone Bail Bonds build. Very interested to see how that comes out. I have the Durham's Rock Hard Putty from a SRMW build from over six years ago. It was my first large craftsman kit build. Delabarre Woolens.
I'm planning on priming the inside walls, assembling the building completely, laying in the window sills, then fixing all the gaps with putty or lightweight spackling. Priming that, then hitting it with the stucco mix. I'll try it out tonight on some scrap material.
Thanks again, for your suggestion. Mark
Mark, I definitely recommend a bit of practice with the water putty before going on to your main event. I struggle with it even after several builds. But that's not to say don't use it. Bob gets great results with his method.
--Opa George
Quote from: Opa George on January 15, 2021, 12:39:03 PM
Mark, I definitely recommend a bit of practice with the water putty before going on to your main event. I struggle with it even after several builds. But that's not to say don't use it. Bob gets great results with his method.
--Opa George
Thanks, I was waiting for Reading Bob's Bail Bonds update, but ended up doing it myself. Found Reading Bob's method to work very well.
If you've been following this build, I'm sorry for the lack of updates, but my phone was giving me photo problems, and I'm still unable to post in-process pictures of the Curtis gas station, and Erickson Livery builds. The gas station build is pretty straight forward, but the directions fail to mention the foundation. I used Reading Bob's method of applying the stucco finish, and thought the results were very close to prototypical. Thanks to Bob for your reply, I'll use this stucco method again. I used lightweight spackle to fill the gaps. Then applied the the stucco finish.
I installed my light block, then placed the roof onto the structure before applying the stucco, since I wanted the stucco on the overhang. Of course, that left me vulnerable to applying the windows from the 'outside', which could be a bit of a challenge. Thankfully, the thin stucco, and the size of the windows allowed me to apply the windows with little difficulty from the outside.
Doug placed the Curtis sign horizontal, but I installed it rising upwards towards the right. I like that look a little better. I used a B.E.S.T chimney, and some brass pipe for vents on the roof. A fun little build that took more evenings to finish than I anticipated.
If there is one thing I would've done differently, it was add some seams to the large DX Fast Service sign.
I intend to add a roof access near the rear of the Curtis structure. Haven't found the right fit.
Here are some fresh pictures I was able to upload today.
Here is a shot from another angle.
Up next is Erickson Livery. Another simple structure that took longer than expected, since I upgraded the overhang to Campbell's corrugated rather than the canvas roof called for in the directions. I like the idea of the canvas roof, but not for this application. I made the extension larger than called out, and added a small porch in back. I also painted the right hand side wall, just in case I decide to keep it apart from the machine shop and apartments portion of the kit. I've left all the other signage for now, may add some later. I may add further weathering as well.
This is a view from the rear. I may add some railings, but am thinking that this little porch may receive some drop-offs from delivery trucks and such, and may be better off if left 'open'.
Hey Craftsmankits:
Looking just great so far. Great job on the stucco.
Karl
Great little build.
Mark,
Outstanding results on the gas station and the livery--well done. I had a bit of trouble with the stucco when I built the gas station and my result was a bit heavy-handed. Yours looks fantastic. Bandits Roost is still one of my favorite builds for overall enjoyment of construction, and it just drips with character. I like your modifications. This kit really invites creativity.
Enjoying following.
--Opa George
Mark,
Fantastic job on the gas and livery buildings. They look perfect.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Opa George on February 14, 2021, 04:49:22 PM
Mark,
Outstanding results on the gas station and the livery--well done. I had a bit of trouble with the stucco when I built the gas station and my result was a bit heavy-handed. Yours looks fantastic. Bandits Roost is still one of my favorite builds for overall enjoyment of construction, and it just drips with character. I like your modifications. This kit really invites creativity.
Enjoying following.
--Opa George
Quote from: postalkarl on February 13, 2021, 11:16:50 PM
Hey Craftsmankits:
Looking just great so far. Great job on the stucco.
Karl
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 14, 2021, 05:19:41 PM
Mark,
Fantastic job on the gas and livery buildings. They look perfect.
Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on February 13, 2021, 11:16:50 PM
Hey Craftsmankits:
Looking just great so far. Great job on the stucco.
Karl
Thanks guys. I'm enjoying this build. I'm still missing two walls to Vallon Paint, having a tough time getting Fos Scale to ship the missing walls. I purchased the kit direct from them, and understand they are busy, but not one return email. I'm thinking my emails ended up in their spam folder or something. Will try them again. I'm working on some wall colors for the machine shop and apartments. Hoping my phone behaves so I can do more in progress updates.
Mark
Mark,
Stunning work. Thanks for all the tips I will use them when I come to build mine.Mike :)
Quote from: craftsmankits on February 14, 2021, 08:33:55 PM
Thanks guys. I'm enjoying this build. I'm still missing two walls to Vallon Paint, having a tough time getting Fos Scale to ship the missing walls. I purchased the kit direct from them, and understand they are busy, but not one return email. I'm thinking my emails ended up in their spam folder or something. Will try them again. I'm working on some wall colors for the machine shop and apartments. Hoping my phone behaves so I can do more in progress updates.
Mark
Mark, as much as I love Doug's kits, his customer service can be lacking. I had the same experience with a missing wall on "The Terminal" kit, which I also bought direct from him when it came out. I finally gave up on emails and just created the wall myself from material on hand--I was lucky that it was a very simple and plain wall (it was the rear wall of the restaurant). But it bugged me that I could not get a response when I followed his instructions for getting missing parts.
To be fair, I did not place a phone call. I have heard that is the best way to contact him. Perhaps I should have done that, but as a business, he should at least check his email spam folder once in a while.
OK, that is my one and only gripe allowed for the year! ;)
--Opa George
Quote from: Opa George on February 15, 2021, 08:07:03 AM
Quote from: craftsmankits on February 14, 2021, 08:33:55 PM
Thanks guys. I'm enjoying this build. I'm still missing two walls to Vallon Paint, having a tough time getting Fos Scale to ship the missing walls. I purchased the kit direct from them, and understand they are busy, but not one return email. I'm thinking my emails ended up in their spam folder or something. Will try them again. I'm working on some wall colors for the machine shop and apartments. Hoping my phone behaves so I can do more in progress updates.
Mark
Mark, as much as I love Doug's kits, his customer service can be lacking. I had the same experience with a missing wall on "The Terminal" kit, which I also bought direct from him when it came out. I finally gave up on emails and just created the wall myself from material on hand--I was lucky that it was a very simple and plain wall (it was the rear wall of the restaurant). But it bugged me that I could not get a response when I followed his instructions for getting missing parts.
To be fair, I did not place a phone call. I have heard that is the best way to contact him. Perhaps I should have done that, but as a business, he should at least check his email spam folder once in a while.
OK, that is my one and only gripe allowed for the year! ;)
--Opa George
When I built the Red Light District I found a wall (with a bunch of other parts embedded in it) was missing from the kit and e-mailed Doug. I got the missing wall first try. I seem to recall in the instructions, or perhaps it was on his website, that he noted put something to the effect of MISSING PARTS in the subject line (I forget the exact wording).
My concern with things like this is that I have some larger kits on the shelf and it may (correction -
will) be years until I get around to building them. I don't open them up and inventory them to see if everything that should be there is there. I suppose I should do that. It's probably easier to missing parts ASAP rather than years later.
Great job Mark.....smaller structures with heaps of character. 8)
Quote from: ReadingBob on February 15, 2021, 08:43:51 AM
I seem to recall in the instructions, or perhaps it was on his website, that he noted put something to the effect of MISSING PARTS in the subject line (I forget the exact wording).
Yep, did that: emailed with the subject "Missing Parts," twice, second time about two weeks later as a follow up. That's why I think it went to spam and he missed it. My kit still built up nicely; it turned out to be not that big of a deal.
Quote from: Opa George on February 15, 2021, 08:07:03 AM
Quote from: craftsmankits on February 14, 2021, 08:33:55 PM
Thanks guys. I'm enjoying this build. I'm still missing two walls to Vallon Paint, having a tough time getting Fos Scale to ship the missing walls. I purchased the kit direct from them, and understand they are busy, but not one return email. I'm thinking my emails ended up in their spam folder or something. Will try them again. I'm working on some wall colors for the machine shop and apartments. Hoping my phone behaves so I can do more in progress updates.
Mark
Mark, as much as I love Doug's kits, his customer service can be lacking. I had the same experience with a missing wall on "The Terminal" kit, which I also bought direct from him when it came out. I finally gave up on emails and just created the wall myself from material on hand--I was lucky that it was a very simple and plain wall (it was the rear wall of the restaurant). But it bugged me that I could not get a response when I followed his instructions for getting missing parts.
To be fair, I did not place a phone call. I have heard that is the best way to contact him. Perhaps I should have done that, but as a business, he should at least check his email spam folder once in a while.
OK, that is my one and only gripe allowed for the year! ;)
--Opa George
Thanks Opa George. I did follow his instructions, but haven't received one return email. I may be forced to call after all.
Quote from: ReadingBob on February 15, 2021, 08:43:51 AM
Quote from: Opa George on February 15, 2021, 08:07:03 AM
Quote from: craftsmankits on February 14, 2021, 08:33:55 PM
Thanks guys. I'm enjoying this build. I'm still missing two walls to Vallon Paint, having a tough time getting Fos Scale to ship the missing walls. I purchased the kit direct from them, and understand they are busy, but not one return email. I'm thinking my emails ended up in their spam folder or something. Will try them again. I'm working on some wall colors for the machine shop and apartments. Hoping my phone behaves so I can do more in progress updates.
Mark
Mark, as much as I love Doug's kits, his customer service can be lacking. I had the same experience with a missing wall on "The Terminal" kit, which I also bought direct from him when it came out. I finally gave up on emails and just created the wall myself from material on hand--I was lucky that it was a very simple and plain wall (it was the rear wall of the restaurant). But it bugged me that I could not get a response when I followed his instructions for getting missing parts.
To be fair, I did not place a phone call. I have heard that is the best way to contact him. Perhaps I should have done that, but as a business, he should at least check his email spam folder once in a while.
OK, that is my one and only gripe allowed for the year! ;)
--Opa George
When I built the Red Light District I found a wall (with a bunch of other parts embedded in it) was missing from the kit and e-mailed Doug. I got the missing wall first try. I seem to recall in the instructions, or perhaps it was on his website, that he noted put something to the effect of MISSING PARTS in the subject line (I forget the exact wording).
My concern with things like this is that I have some larger kits on the shelf and it may (correction - will) be years until I get around to building them. I don't open them up and inventory them to see if everything that should be there is there. I suppose I should do that. It's probably easier to missing parts ASAP rather than years later.
I'm in that same boat. Too many kits, and maybe not enough life to finish them all, especially with all the new kits that end up being something I must have.
Quote from: madharry on February 15, 2021, 04:14:53 AM
Mark,
Stunning work. Thanks for all the tips I will use them when I come to build mine.Mike :)
Thanks Mike, I'd like to think I get better with each successive kit. I'm sure we all do.
Mark
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 14, 2021, 05:19:41 PM
Mark,
Fantastic job on the gas and livery buildings. They look perfect.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom, you are the post master. I've enjoyed watching your progress and updates. Mark
Okay, I jumped ahead a bit. I find the walls to be the easiest portion of the builds. Here are the walls for the Machine shop and apartments. I used a different approach for the steel door to the machine shops. I primed the door with Rustoleum Cameo, stippled on MSP Master Series Paint Honed Steel over the entire door. Applied small amounts of DecoArt Charcoal Grey DA088, overthe lower portion of the door, then quickly applied weathering powders with rust tones over the paint. After this dried, I applied rust tone weathering powders over the entire door in a thin film, then stippled on some white acrylic paint, and I mean, very small amounts in the areas shown, then after it dried, lightly coated the door with weathering powders a final time. I thought it came out pretty nice.
I applied small amounts of rust colored weathering powder over the nail holes, and if it appears a little harsh in the photos, it's easily fixed by spraying some Dust Off, compressed gas dust remover used for computers. I find this product, and similar products invaluable if you have second thoughts about over application of weathering powders. Not much help for removing excess Pan Pastels though.
Forgot to mention that I used three colors for the green walls. I stippled on Folkart 458 Sap Green, covered with a drybrush of Folkart 5456 Mossy Meadow, then stippled Folkart 2427 as a final coat. Followed up with a drybrush of white to bring out the high areas. Attaching the angled portion required the use of the foundation pieces, but I find the foundation pieces to be a little short. I probably won't use them, but they do serve a purpose for aligning the walls, and eventually, for cutting the 1/16 x 3/16 wood that fits atop the gable walls.
The angled walls must be sanded along the edges in order for them to fit properly. This did take some time, but is well within the reach of most modelers. Also remember to leave any bracing away from the angled portions where it would protrude and interfere with the roof. It's an easy mistake to make.
Getting back to the trim boards that lay atop the gables. In order for them to fit evenly along the tops of the walls, you'll have to cut in some notches. I've included a picture of one of the boards with the notch. This only applies to the angled end, and should be performed on both sides. I should also include that when placing the 'Edward Corner - ROPE' sign to the end angled wall, that I placed the sign even with the bottom of where the trim will be. It looks 'right' when done this way, at least to me. I also added the corner trim to the long walls, and not to the angled portion. I filed and cut the end wall to fit with the already installed long walls.
Also, for ease of construction, I finished the squared portion first, then added the side walls over the foundation as a guide. I taped the foundation portions to my work surface, and went from there. I applied the end wall of the angled portion last.
I applied the trim boards, using the foundation for the angled portion as a cutting guide for the ends. Now, on to the roofs. I'm not completely sure how I want to finish them. Here's a final shot of the applied trim boards. I also placed on the Callahan Machining sign. I weathered that sign along with the Beech-Nut, and Rope sign with pan pastel white, applied with a fan brush. I may apply some more weathering, but I think this is a good start. Now, if I can just get Doug to answer my request for those two missing walls, I can move on to Vallon Paint and the burger joint.
Mark
Hey Mark:
Looks just beautiful so far. Like the colors and the signs look great.
Karl
You're doing great Mark , signs and colors are superb.
She's turning out to be quite a beauty. No doubt about that. Love it! :D
Mark, beautiful work. Of all the "super" kits, this is my favorite.
Quote from: Janbouli on February 22, 2021, 05:30:41 AM
You're doing great Mark , signs and colors are superb.
Thank you very much. Sorry for the delay, house hunting is tiring.
Quote from: postalkarl on February 21, 2021, 11:37:09 PM
Hey Mark:
Looks just beautiful so far. Like the colors and the signs look great.
Karl
Thanks Karl, I've found time hard to come by lately. Mark
Quote from: ReadingBob on February 22, 2021, 07:03:38 AM
She's turning out to be quite a beauty. No doubt about that. Love it! :D
Thanks Bob, I'm back after a layoff.
Quote from: Opa George on February 22, 2021, 09:13:37 AM
Mark, beautiful work. Of all the "super" kits, this is my favorite.
Thanks George, This is a great kit, and Doug came through with the missing walls for Vallon Paint. I've got some updates after a long lay off. Mark
For anyone following along, life can get in the way. House hunting in Indiana is rough going. As soon as they list, they go. Anyway, back to the task at hand. I found the time to complete the roof on Callahan Machining. I didn't have any issues worth mentioning, and Doug came through with the missing two walls for Vallon Paint, so the buildings portion will be completed, hopefully, by late April. Here is a photo of the roofing strips made with construction paper. I sprayed them lightly with grey auto primer, then sanded them with 120 grit sandpaper, similar to what Jason Jenson has demonstrated. I wanted to doing something different with the roofs, but found the angled portion got in the way of anything unusual. You'll also see my cutting jig taped to the cutting mat. I used it for the angles on the angled portions of the roof. It worked out pretty well.
Next up, I began adding the strips after creating a 'well' for the water where the roofs meet. I did have some issues fitting the angled portion of the cardboard roof, which I addressed with a little trimming.
Unfortunately, my limited time cut into my taking pictures. The next image shows the nearly finished roof, with chimneys and various vents attached. I also decided to attach the livery stable, since I found the dimensions of my intended diorama expanding out of control. I used the foundation provided with the kit on the livery, but will be leaving them off the Callahan Machining building.
Mark, Beautiful job your doing....
Here's another view from the end where the gas station will be placed, underneath the 'Rope' sign.
This is how the building appears today. I added some weathering, plus the awning on the apartments section. I highly recommend this kit. I'm sure the visual will be very satisfying for anyone on the fence regarding to build or sell. It's been a lot of fun.
This shot overlooks the stable, plenty of bird poop.
Here's an overhead.
Here's a shot of the back. I'm probably going to spice it up a bit, but it will be mostly in hiding since it will be very close the Harrison and Rochelle Enamel Works.
Quote from: Dennis Bourey on March 20, 2021, 09:06:26 PM
Mark, Beautiful job your doing....
Thanks Dennis, I'm having fun with this one. Mark
Wow, really nice results on that part of the kit, Mark. Those angles are a bit of a challenge and you pulled it off nicely. I like your weathering and detailing.
--Opa George
Very nice!
Jerry
Wonderful , beautiful weathering and the roof looks super.
Hey There:
You are doing A beautiful job on this so far. Can't wait to see more.
Karl
Wonderful structure build Mark..... 8)
This is coming on really nicely, Mark.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark;
I just finish reading your kit build. Very nice and a great looking combination. Great detailing and thanks for the tips, it is what helps everyone. Look forward to seeing more. As for FOS I too had the same missing part issue. Never got an answer on one and took a while on the other. With all the kit makers that have popped up in this pandemic I find myself looking at other vendors because like a lot of us, the kit list I have on hand will keep me busy for years. I don't like these kind of surprises when I open a kit. Again, great modeling, enjoyed the comments.
Jim D
Quote from: Opa George on March 21, 2021, 06:54:28 AM
Wow, really nice results on that part of the kit, Mark. Those angles are a bit of a challenge and you pulled it off nicely. I like your weathering and detailing.
--Opa George
Thank you George. I enjoy your builds as well. Mark
Quote from: Jerry on March 21, 2021, 08:59:43 AM
Very nice!
Jerry
Thanks Jerry, just having fun. Mark
Quote from: Janbouli on March 21, 2021, 09:11:18 AM
Wonderful , beautiful weathering and the roof looks super.
Thanks, the roofs are always what people see first. I always hope to get them right.
Quote from: postalkarl on March 21, 2021, 09:39:32 AM
Hey There:
You are doing A beautiful job on this so far. Can't wait to see more.
Karl
Thanks Karl, I'm getting there. Mark
Quote from: GPdemayo on March 21, 2021, 10:40:38 AM
Wonderful structure build Mark..... 8)
Thanks, I enjoy Doug's kits. Mark
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on March 21, 2021, 02:43:53 PM
This is coming on really nicely, Mark.
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks Mark, I enjoy checking your builds as well. Mark
Quote from: Jim Donovan on March 23, 2021, 09:28:44 PM
Mark;
I just finish reading your kit build. Very nice and a great looking combination. Great detailing and thanks for the tips, it is what helps everyone. Look forward to seeing more. As for FOS I too had the same missing part issue. Never got an answer on one and took a while on the other. With all the kit makers that have popped up in this pandemic I find myself looking at other vendors because like a lot of us, the kit list I have on hand will keep me busy for years. I don't like these kind of surprises when I open a kit. Again, great modeling, enjoyed the comments.
Jim D
Thanks Jim, I've been keeping up with your Cundy Hotel build. Mark
Okay, I started the Vallon Paint building after receiving the missing walls from Fosscale Models a few weeks ago. Here's a shot of the walls distressed, and waiting for staining. The missing walls are in the middle of the photo, and are lighter in color. I prefer to add nail holes and distress the wood prior to adding bracing. I believe it works better since there is a chance of damaging a wall by sending a knife through it, or having it tilt if you're not over a braced area.
Here's a shot of the stained walls. While the walls are different in color, after the paint was applied, you couldn't tell the difference.
Here are the walls after paint was applied, using a drybrush technique, and stippling. I used a stenciling brush to apply the 'Paint' sign.
Here are the walls with signs, and windows added. The unfinished area will be where the burger joint will be placed.
Next up is the burger joint. The foundation for the kit had a laser cut outline along it's edge that I removed, which allowed me to apply the walls of the burger joint directly to the foundation. I did this since I intend to use cedar shingles for the burger joint, in place of the corrugated metal siding called for in the kit.
Here is a shot of the walls attached directly to the foundation. I will be creating my own foundation later.
Next, I applied bracing to the entire structure, since I required a sturdy surface to apply the shingles.
While not the best picture. This shows the applied shingles to the long side of the building. I applied a single wash of alcohol and India ink, then a single wash of Hunterline Greige. I worried the washes might loosen the mod podge, but had no problems. This was prior to adding a drybrush of Linen, followed by a light drybrush of white craft paint.
Due to some concerns about the ability of the mod podge to hold up to the washes. As insurance, I applied a thin bead of canopy glue #560 along the top edge of the shingles. You can see this thin bead along the top edge of the door side of the building, before I cut off the excess shingles. You'll also see my test sheet of shingles on a cardboard sheet, to ensure they would hold up to the alcohol washes.
Next up. The kit called for corrugated siding, but I decided to try something different. I wanted to use cedar shake shingles. I have a Scotty Mason DVD featuring Brian Nolan where he used Sierra Scale Models Cedar shingles. I used #110 shingles for the sides of the burger joint, using the method outlined by Brian Nolan by using a brand new #11 blade and a toothpick. After cutting the shingles, and laying then out in a pile in front of me, I laid down a thin layer of Elmer's wood glue and applied the shingles starting at the bottom. I was able to pick up on Brian Nolan's method fairly quickly.
I found the wood glue annoying, since it seemed to be drying too fast for my taste, and switched to matt Mod Podge, and allowed the shingles to dry overnight. This picture shows the door side, with shingles applied, and a light dry brush of linen, followed by a dry brush of white craft paint. I tried to stagger the shingles, but some line up anyway.
In order to give it some depth. I applied a pan pastel, in a dark grey underneath the shingle edges, I also applied some green pan pastel at the bottom. I avoided black, since I thought it might be too stark. The dark grey worked out pretty well to my eye.
This is the long wall.
Here's a shot of the long wall, with the roof card applied, and window installed.
Vallon paint called out for a tarpaper roof, but I changed it up, replacing it with Builders In Scale ribbed seam metal roofing, #531.
After cutting the sheets to size. I applied three coats of grey auto primer.
Next, I stippled on some MSP Core Colors 09053 honed steel over the panels.
I applied some rust colored weathering powders over the panels, then sealed them with a mist of Krylon Crystal Matte Flat.
After assembling Vallon Paint, I used a sponge, and applied a light layer of Winsor & Newton Artist Oil burnt umber over the bottom edges of the panels. I then added rust colored weathering powders directly onto the oil paint. Since the oil paint takes time to dry, I speed up the process by applying another coat of Krylon flat.
I forgot to take a picture during that stage. This picture shows the applied panels to Vallon Paint, and the upcoming panels for the short side of the roof to Vallon Paint.
This is where Vallon Paint stands today. I added the opposite roof, attached the burger joint, and applied a tar paper roof with some weathering to the burger joint. I added the chimney to Vallon Paint after applying the roof. I was able to cut the Builders In Scale roofing in place, but the roof was well braced. I wouldn't suggest trying to cut the metal roofing material in place without the roof being well braced.
Here's a final shot before I call it a night.
Looking great so far. Two questions. On the cedar shakes, did you apply the Pan pastels with a brush or one of the sponges/tools? Also, does spraying the Krylon Flat over the oil paint really help it dry? I'd think it'd make it more difficult to cure as it's now sealed. I like how the standing seam roofing looks and my present build has one, so I'm going to try out your technique. Thanks for the tips.
Jeff
Mark, very nice job on Vallon Paint. I think the prototype structure it is based on was a big part of Doug's inspiration for the overall kit. You have captured it well. I really like the cedar shake shingles on the small restaurant. Very striking and well done. I seem to remember that small structure causing me a bit of trouble in fitting the walls, although in the end it turned out well.
I'm really enjoying following along.
--Opa George
Great job with the shakes Mark..... 8)
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on March 28, 2021, 07:32:45 AM
Looking great so far. Two questions. On the cedar shakes, did you apply the Pan pastels with a brush or one of the sponges/tools? Also, does spraying the Krylon Flat over the oil paint really help it dry? I'd think it'd make it more difficult to cure as it's now sealed. I like how the standing seam roofing looks and my present build has one, so I'm going to try out your technique. Thanks for the tips.
Jeff
Hi Jeff,
I use a brush to apply the pan pastels. I rarely use a sponge. I used a sponge when working on a tall chimney from Bar Mills, and some brick work on a SRMW kit. As for spraying the Krylon Flat over the oil paint. I apply a small amount of oil paint, and allow it to hold the weathering powders in place. The powders are already 'drying' the paint, the Krylon merely finishes the job. Of course, if there are 'blobs' of oil paint, the Krylon, or Dullcote probably won't fully seal the surface. Hope this helps.
Here's a picture of my Cundy Cannery diorama with the aforementioned chimney. I did this diorama as 'filler' when I was involved with a SRMW kit. This is also the first time I took pictures of one of my dioramas outside.
Mark
Quote from: Opa George on March 28, 2021, 08:10:13 AM
Mark, very nice job on Vallon Paint. I think the prototype structure it is based on was a big part of Doug's inspiration for the overall kit. You have captured it well. I really like the cedar shake shingles on the small restaurant. Very striking and well done. I seem to remember that small structure causing me a bit of trouble in fitting the walls, although in the end it turned out well.
I'm really enjoying following along.
--Opa George
Thanks George, it's been fun, the real trick will be placing all these together in a diorama. Mark
Quote from: GPdemayo on March 28, 2021, 09:14:22 AM
Great job with the shakes Mark..... 8)
Thanks, this was my first time with the shingles. Not as difficult as I thought it might be. I've used Bar Mills shingle sheets in the past, and have enjoyed the results from their product as well.
Mark
Nice job Mark.
Jerry
The finish on that standing seam roof is absolutely wonderful. Not that everything else isn't wonderfully done. It's all looking great. ;)
Looks great, Mark. Beautiful work.
Cheers, Mark.
Hey Mark:
Beautiful job.
Karl
Many thanks to Bob, Mark and Karl. Here is a very rough outline of where the structures are headed. I started to carve out some foam, and fit the buildings.
I've decided to make the base for each of the larger structures, and bring them together when appropriate. I used Mig Acrylic Concrete Texture directly over the foam. No problems with adhesion at this point. Though, when trying to cut in some cracks, there was some give due to the foam being so 'soft'. So I avoided introducing any cracking, though I do believe it's possible to do so over the foam base.
Here's a shot of Vallon paint with the burger sign applied. I'll be updating when I can, but with spring, and yardwork coming, attention to this project will suffer. I'll be using roughly the same placement of the buildings as Doug designed it. But, I will avoiding the open area between Harrison and Rochelle and the annex. I'm also placing the road further away from the machine shop and apartments. The steep grade of the road in Doug's diorama could result in older cars coming to a stop, since Model T's and other early cars relied on gravity to supply fuel, and steep grades could cause them to quickly run out of gas.
Hey Buddy:
Looking just beautiful.
Karl
I'm in awe of this build, wow. I need to shut my mouth and stop drooling. Just a fantastic build. I never realized Bandit's Roost was that size.
Tom ;D
Mark,
Your build is looking fantastic !
Thanks for sharing the updates.
Tommy
Quote from: postalkarl on April 04, 2021, 07:50:20 PM
Hey Buddy:
Looking just beautiful.
Karl
Thanks Karl, having a great time with this kit.
Mark
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 04, 2021, 08:30:40 PM
I'm in awe of this build, wow. I need to shut my mouth and stop drooling. Just a fantastic build. I never realized Bandit's Roost was that size.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom. Yes, this is a fairly large kit. Just starting the diorama portion.
Mark
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on April 05, 2021, 11:47:43 AM
Mark,
Your build is looking fantastic !
Thanks for sharing the updates.
Tommy
Thanks Tommy, this one is keeping my busy, that's for sure. Mark
Here's a shot of Vallon paint after adding an awning over the the length of the short wall, and adding a Bar Mills cellar entry along the back wall.
This is the beginning of the diorama portion, with the buildings in roughly the areas they will occupy. Disregard the building on the left where the water will be.
This next shot is from the side. I'm using some New England Brownstone dry stacked stone walls for the area underneath the boiler house as a foundation. I may throw in some I beams to help support those walls. I'm not building in a water area between the Harrison and Rochelle building and the annex as Doug had done with his build. I find the area too small. Hats off to Doug for pulling that off. That's a pretty tight space.
Next up, the foundations for the two main structures. I used Mig Acrylic Concrete for the walls, and ended up painting over the walls with Hunterline Cement Weathering Mix, then stippled on some ArtMinds Chalk Paint Cocoon with a sponge.
The next image shows the preliminary placement of the sidewalks.
Maybe I went about this backwards, but I laid down some sculptamold where the sidewalks will be placed.
I placed the sidewalk portions into place, then forced them up with a bit more sculptamold using a thin metal spatula so they would sit firmly along the bottom of the building. I used Bar Mills sidewalks, not the ones supplied with the kit. I worried the sidewalks might deform from the water used in making the sculptamold, but didn't have any problems. Thankfully, they held firmly in place.
This is the opposite side of the building. I wanted to add a rock feature leading down to the gas station. This is the preliminary placement.
Next, I carved a 'bathtub' to hold the rock, and glued it in place with some formula 560 canopy glue.
I added sculptamold along the building from end to end. My plan is to do as much scenery, and placement of details before placing this portion onto the main diorama. The two main structures are too close together for me to get in-between them. Since I use the same scenery materials and techniques, I shouldn't have any trouble in finishing up the touch up portions.
I later laid down the portion under the stable area.
Next, I laid down some Woodland Scenics Earth Undercoat after letting the sculptamold set up overnight.
Lastly, I added some soil. I take my soil from baseball diamonds. I pay taxes, plenty of them, so I figure a few pounds of soil won't hurt anybody. I sift the soil, and while it's light in color, most layout areas can be kind of dark, so I prefer the soil to be a little light. I applied some details and scenic material. The stacked drums come from a South River Model Works kit. This is the first addition of details and scenic material. Much to go, plus staining the rock feature. I'm not sure what to do with that open overhang between the yellow and red buildings. May place in some racks for wood, or lengths of pipe. Still mulling that over. That about wraps it up for today.
Coming together really nicely, Mark.
Its interesting to watch you site this complex into the scenery.
Cheers, Mark.
Hey:
All looking just great.
Karl
I like it. Your placement and terrain features really highlight the structures.
--Opa George
Very nice. i like the way you place th buildings into the scenery.
Jerry
Many thanks to Mark, Karl, Jerry and George. Here's the building, and scenery as they appear now. The rock has been stained, and additional vegetation added.
This rather unsightly image is a portion of the road in front of Callahann Machining, and the apartments. This will be the rock feature, that will also include a stone retaining wall that runs alongside the road. I attached the hydrocal rocks with Woodland Scenics hot glue gun. I don't do this often, but wanted them securely in place.
Next, I applied some of the stone retaining wall using B.E.S.T. hydrocal stones/blocks. I applied the stones level, and not slanted up with the grade of the road. I'm pretty sure most retaining walls going up or down hills remain 'level'. I had to bevel the rear of the stones to fit tight through the curve, since I don't intend to use any mortar. It's my first time attempting a stone by stone build of this nature. I also applied some sculptamold to help secure the rocks, and along the top of the wall. I used canopy glue to apply the individual stone blocks.
Next up. I continued the retaining wall and added some additional sculptamold. This didn't take nearly as long as I thought. I did have to notch out the base stones, and sometimes add small amounts of sculptamold to support them along the way.
Tonight, I filled in the areas between the four rocks with hydrocal, and sculpted new rock using an exacto blade, and a soft brush to wipe away the excess. In the background, you can see the stone retaining wall for the boiler house. I filled in the cracks where the two walls meet. Thankfully, I remembered to do this when addressing the rock feature. I sometimes forget about these small things, and it bothers me to have to repeat a task. Must be getting old.
This is an overhead shot of the rock. Will probably stain the rocks, and retaining wall this weekend. I'll probably have to add some more foam to the end of the road, and extend the wall a few more inches. The scenic idea, encompasses a road passing in front of the parking lot for Callahan Machining, that passes very close to the waterfront, down to the gas station, and beyond to Vallon Paint.
I applied a little more hydrocal into the joint where the stone retaining wall meets the rocks. While I could hide a portion of this with scenery material. I may want it to stand alone, and not be so obvious that I'm hiding where they meet. Thankfully, I'm in the mood for scenery, and diorama building. It doesn't always work out that way. I tend to drift between projects, and do what feels better to do at the time. I doubt I'm alone in that line of thinking. That's all for now.
Quote from: craftsmankits on April 22, 2021, 11:08:22 PM
I tend to drift between projects, and do what feels better to do at the time.
Very nice, Mark. Should look fantastic with color stain. Yes, I do the same. It's for relaxation, after all (and no boss to tell us what is next).
--Opa George
That wall and the rock castings look great together. Can't wait to see them stained and finished. ;)
Nice looking wall and rock formation. Don't forget to tell us how you stain/paint them. :)
Jeff
Looking just great.
Karm
Thanks to Karl, George, Rob and Jeff. I'll go through the process, but I must mention, not all plans go as intended. I did have some problems along the way which I will outline.
First up, I added the additional insulation to extend the road to the back of the diorama. I had to do this since I had to extend the rock retaining wall up the grade. Then sealed the joints with sculptamold.
Next, I stained the wall with alcohol and India ink. This picture is immediately after the wash. It came out a bit darker than I intended, but no panic. I didn't seal the wall with dulcote, so the stain really set in. I sometimes seal my castings before staining. I sin to some, Brian Nolan always applied washes to castings without dulcote.
While still wet, I added a thinned wash of Yellow Oxide to add some additional color. Then allowed this to sit overnight.
The next day, I did something that Brett from Sierra West Models uses to color his wood strips. He has a great video on his site outlining the process. The video isn't long, and it inspired me to try to attempt this process on plaster castings. I used the following Rembrandt soft pastels: Burnt Sienna, Raw Sienna, two Raw Umbers, numbered 408.3 & 408.5 and finally gold Ochre.
I had success with this method before, but this time, I had a few issues. One of which occurs after I apply the wash/stains with isopropyl alcohol. The alcohol evaporates leaving the color behind, with some really nice tones, but the color is not 'set'. It is still active, and as you'll see later, when I attempt to use dulcote, the color disappears, and you're left with a frosted grey granite like color with very slight variations. This was not what I wanted. But here, with this wall, I left the colors 'as is' then applied a drybrush of Linen craft paint. The drybrush was muted by the fact the pastel colors leached onto the brush, requiring a lot of 'reloads' to finish the job.
This is a closeup after the drybrush of linen. Not bad, but not exactly what I was looking for.
Next is the rock formation at the end of the retaining wall. I apply a medium wash of India Ink and alcohol, then immediately hit it with thin washes of Liquitex Yellow Oxide, Burnt Umber and Neutral Grey. It appears a little dark since this was taken right after all the colors were applied, it will lighten overnight. I prefer to have my rocks be light in color, as they tend to darken over time. To repeat, I used thin washes. Woodland Scenics has videos on rock coloring, and they are very informative. There are also plenty of options on Youtube as well. There are countless ways to color plaster rocks. I don't use dulcote on any of my rock castings.
This is the rock formation the next day. I believe I may have given it a dry brushing of Linen craft paint as well.
Next up. I added some sculptamold along the top and bottom of the retaining wall, and along the edge of the rock formation. I colored the area with Woodland Scenics Earth Undercoat, and added a road using Durham's Rock Hard putty. The road was done over two days. With the portion closest to the wall done first, then adding the other half the next day using the first portion as a guide. The road has a slight peak for water runoff.
Next, I added AK Interactive Terrains Asphalt in a thin coat over the Durham's rock hard putty. I used a spatula, and found the working time to be excellent, and the overall look very realistic. I know it's really black at this point, but I'll take care of that much later. I plan to do the coast road, and lower road all the way to Vallon Paint with this product.
Next, I added various scenic materials above and below the retaining wall, in addition to the some of the areas around the rock formation. I also added some posts for a wooden guard rail that will be placed in front of the retaining wall. I spoke to a friend in the hobby, and he suggested I add the wooden guard rail. I had been mulling it over, but he helped seal the deal, and I'll add guard rails to the ocean side as well. If you haven't noticed, I'm working from the inside of the diorama out. The sea walls, and rock features will be the last items to add before the water. This will be quite a large project. I'm not using as much compression as Doug used when he designed the kit.
Here's a shot of the retaining wall with the added guardrail.
This is an overhead shot. This is also my first automobile guardrail from scratch. The wood posts may seem large to some of you, but there is a story behind it. My brother used to work for a frame company in Sheboygan Wisconsin in the early 70's called Decorel or Decoral. I don't think they exist anymore. They made picture frames. They also made three dimensional kits for deep frames, that people would cut out, and make the images appear 3D. Anyway, I enquired about the wood used in those 3D kits, and he ended up giving me a large box of 1/8 square pieces in 4 and 6 inch lengths. Needless to say, I have enough of these to last my entire kit building life, and I try to include some of this wood in each structure I build in honor of his memory.
Really nice to watch you work on your scenery, Mark. Its coming together nicely.
Cheers, Mark.
Next, I glued two sections together, the road, and the Callahan Machining portion. (I used a hot glue gun to attach the two sections.) Sadly, the sidewalk did drop a bit on the Callahan Machining and apartments. It took a couple of weeks for that to happen, so the next time I apply a sidewalk I'll attempt a different method. You'll also notice the lower portion of the rock feature will be covered by road in the future. I planned this, and extended the rocks to ensure they would reach far enough going forward.
Next, I filled in the area between the road, and the buildings with sculptamold. I was leaning towards a cobblestone road from Monster Modelwork's in front of Callahan's, but am having second thoughts. I may go with concrete, since the area behind Rochelle Enamel will have a concrete road, and the three different road surfaces may be too busy.
This is a shot of the retaining wall underneath the boiler house to Harrison and Rochelle. I used a New England Brownstone casting. I also added a portion of insulation underneath the boiler house to facilitate the application of sculptamold. This is the test fit phase.
Nest is a picture of failure. This is the look at the retaining wall with the Rembrandt soft pastels added, and my misguided use of dulcote to seal the colors in place. As you can see, it looks like frosted grey granite. Not what I was looking for. The natural tones from the Rembrandt pastels was wiped away. Should've known better. You can still see some muted tones, but nothing like it was.
Lastly, this is the retaining wall with a few Rembrandt pastels added, and some various light acrylic washes. It's more in line with what I wanted. Much of this work is going to be covered by rock, and scenery, but you get an idea of what I was trying to accomplish. I also filled the area between the retaining wall and the boiler house with sculptamold, and added Woodland Scenics Earth Undercoat. I don't wait around, I usually color the sculptamold the same day. I allow enough time for the sculptamold to set up, then hit it. No use in waiting around. Sometimes, I'll add my dirt the same day as well, depending upon how wet the whole thing 'feels'. I usually have all this thought out in advance anyway.
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on May 02, 2021, 10:32:42 PM
Really nice to watch you work on your scenery, Mark. Its coming together nicely.
Cheers, Mark.
From one Mark to another, Thanks. I'm enjoying this project. Many challenges ahead.
Mark,
In that last picture the retaining wall colors really look spot on. Well done! ;)
Mark
I just got caught up with your build thread. Your build looks great and thank you for sharing it with us. I picked up some new techniques I want to try.
As for the missing parts, it happens. If you don't get a favorable response from the kit manufacture - I like most people on this forum, have a bunch of kits on the shelf that I'm hoping to live long enough to build. If you run into a missing part, there is one of us that has the same kit on the shelf and we can make a template for you. For cast parts there are molds floating around from similar issues. Especially, from the kit manufactures that have retired. Just ask for help.
As Bob said, the stone work looks great. I have never had any luck with sealing chalk without destroying the color. I always do the finishing touches and put them where they don't get touched, again. Sometimes that means waiting to do that step last.
A few years back I tried a bunch of different products that I bought from Dick Blick for setting pastel chalks. I wasn't happy with the results. I asked a professional artists what to use and was told put a piece of glass over the work piece and frame it.
I agree with Bob, the rock coloring is excellent.....well done. 8)
Very nice rock coloring. Looks great to me.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on May 03, 2021, 08:00:08 AM
Mark,
In that last picture the retaining wall colors really look spot on. Well done! ;)
Thanks Bob, unfortunately, a lot of it is going to be covered up.
Mark
Quote from: S&S RR on May 03, 2021, 11:54:14 AM
Mark
I just got caught up with your build thread. Your build looks great and thank you for sharing it with us. I picked up some new techniques I want to try.
As for the missing parts, it happens. If you don't get a favorable response from the kit manufacture - I like most people on this forum, have a bunch of kits on the shelf that I'm hoping to live long enough to build. If you run into a missing part, there is one of us that has the same kit on the shelf and we can make a template for you. For cast parts there are molds floating around from similar issues. Especially, from the kit manufactures that have retired. Just ask for help.
As Bob said, the stone work looks great. I have never had any luck with sealing chalk without destroying the color. I always do the finishing touches and put them where they don't get touched, again. Sometimes that means waiting to do that step last.
A few years back I tried a bunch of different products that I bought from Dick Blick for setting pastel chalks. I wasn't happy with the results. I asked a professional artists what to use and was told put a piece of glass over the work piece and frame it.
Thanks John for you advice. Sometimes I forget the obvious, and repeat the same mistake in trying to seal the chalks. I agree with you, I usually apply the most sensitive weathering/coloring as my final steps.
Mark
Quote from: GPdemayo on May 04, 2021, 07:34:47 AM
I agree with Bob, the rock coloring is excellent.....well done. 8)
Thanks Greg. Much of it will be lost. Mark
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 04, 2021, 02:43:39 PM
Very nice rock coloring. Looks great to me.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom. I've been going back to your old posts, thanks for all the efforts you put forth in sharing your layout. I'm learning this stuff takes some time to do.
Mark
Okay, I'm back. Two lawns to take care of, all this Summer stuff going on, yet I've been busy on the sea walls for Bandit's Roost. By far, the largest rock project of my modeling career. This is the beginning of the rock wall. I use the various rock molds from Woodland Scenics, Sterling Models, and another source that escapes me. I apply them with a hot glue gun. The last two pictures illustrate the area between the rocks having been filled in, and sculpted together. Not finished at this point, as you can still see some gaps, but coming together all the same.
This next shot is of the sidewalks at Callahan Machining being removed. They sank, so I used a wide Xacto blade to remove them, then reinstall them flush to the underside of the building. I forgot to take pictures of the two buildings being installed, and the road, onto the base. You can see Callahan, and road portion portion installed, and brought together with sculptamold.
This next shot shows the two buildings installed, as I begin to color the sculptamold between them. This is the point where I remembered to take a picture. You can see where I started to apply the undercoat. I added scenery to the small area where the extension attaches to Harrison and Rochelle before I put the buildings in place.
This is the area where the boiler house wall I colored earlier, is meeting the rock. Much of that wall will end up being covered by rock and scenery.
This is an overhead of the rock sea walls. Most of the gaps are filled in at this point. I prefer using rock molds. They have detail that is hard to replicate. I've tried making my own rocks multiple times, and found they lacked the character, and fine detail of the molds. Just my preference to do rock work this way. The second picture shows the rock outcropping on the small peninsula.
At this point, I placed the annex, and Vallon paint onto the diorama for spacing. I'm finding Vallon Paint is space challenged. I may have to forgo the sidewalks, and maybe go with cobblestone, or simply have the road come up to the building. Still pondering what to do there. Lot's of possibilities.
Next up, I got busy, and colored all the rock face. It took around an hour and a half, but when I'm working on this stuff. I enter a time warp. Time, just disappears. It never felt like and hour and a half. I first used a medium wash of Isopropyl Alcohol and India Ink, then applied a thin wash of Yellow Oxide, followed up with thin, transparent washes of Neutral Grey and Burnt Umber. These paints are from Liquitex, simple acrylic colors. They appear a little dark at this point, but they were still wet. Some portions, where I added hydrocal to bring the molds together appear light. I'll touch those areas up. Some of those areas are located where the muck line will be anyway, so no worries there.
To close out the night. These are shots of the other side, facing Callahan Machining and the coast road. You'll notice the rocks along the front come right to edge of the diorama. That will addressed, as I'm adding roughly three and one half inches to the front. All told, I probably should've piled on some compression, since the entire thing is now 37 inches wide, and 28 and one half inches deep. Go big, or go home I guess. I'll be visiting Luke Towan, and High Eye Workshop on Youtube for some waterfront ideas, and other water making videos in general to get this thing along. It's easily the largest diorama I've made. Hope you're enjoying the ride.
Mark
Coming on nicely, Mark.
Its great when time disappears like that. It happens to me most modeling Thursdays. Today was no exception. We model from 1 - 4. I finally left at 4:45.
I watched Bob Van Gelder place a rock casting and then carve one along side it using the casting as a guide. I tried it and it was certainly my best effort. The down side with using molds is if you use them a lot you start to see them - both in your work and other modelers. And, of course, those other modelers see them in your work. I think maybe making your own molds is the answer? Oh - and I'm enjoying the ride.
Cheers, Mark.
That's really coming along quite nicely Mark. I love the rock work and the coloring. Time flies when you're having fun doesn't it? ;)
Very nicely done Mark.
Can'T wait to see it finished.
Eric
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on May 27, 2021, 02:00:54 AM
Coming on nicely, Mark.
Its great when time disappears like that. It happens to me most modeling Thursdays. Today was no exception. We model from 1 - 4. I finally left at 4:45.
I watched Bob Van Gelder place a rock casting and then carve one along side it using the casting as a guide. I tried it and it was certainly my best effort. The down side with using molds is if you use them a lot you start to see them - both in your work and other modelers. And, of course, those other modelers see them in your work. I think maybe making your own molds is the answer? Oh - and I'm enjoying the ride.
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks Mark, I've got most of the Scotty Mason video's, which includes Bob Van Gelder's rock casting techniques. Also watched Fos Scale Models video's covering the same subject matter. I'll keep using molds, along with attempts at my own rock formations. I've had trouble getting the detail the molds deliver.
Quote from: ReadingBob on May 27, 2021, 06:46:05 AM
That's really coming along quite nicely Mark. I love the rock work and the coloring. Time flies when you're having fun doesn't it? ;)
Yes Bob, time does fly, it's been over a month since I provided an update. Bad Boy. Summer does slow down the modeling, at least from my end.
Mark
Quote from: EricQuebec on May 27, 2021, 07:07:16 AM
Very nicely done Mark.
Can'T wait to see it finished.
Eric
Thanks Eric, getting there. Scenery is getting closer. The water will take a while. Hoping to finish this by September, or sooner.
Mark
Okay, it's been over a month since my last update. Summer has a habit of getting in the way of this important stuff. This first shot is of the Durham's rock hard putty base for the roads. Vallon Paint is not installed, it's just there for appearances. The sidewalk for Vallon is from Bar Mills. The ones with the kit didn't 'fit'. I didn't provide enough space. Hope the view doesn't get you dizzy.
I scratch built two drains using some Tichy Group walkways, and Evergreen styrene. I placed them on either side of the road, but my initial intention was to place one near the gas station, and near the base of Harrison and Rochelle. Found the going too tight, and decided to place them at the low portions of the road, and hill to the left of the gas station.
Next, I used AK Terrains Asphalt over the road surfaces. I used some small metal spatulas, and found the material easy to work with. After removing the paving tape, I used a small brush to touch up the edges of the roadway. Portions of the road experienced cracking, which I left as is, it added to the texture and feel of the road. I'm not sure why it cracked, possibly from my using some water on the spatula to continue smoothing it in particular areas. Some of you may have more experience with this product, and could better describe the cracking effect, and how it's created. I enjoyed using it, and a thin coat goes a long way.
Here is the area where the annex will be placed. It's one of the few pictures I took during this period. I found time to model, but not consider that some of you might want more in process photo's. You'll notice the road has been colored. I used a large brush, with a very diluted AK 4062 Light Dust Deposit. I used Turpenoid to dilute the product. Didn't affect the road surface in the least. I worked quickly, since the road bed is very absorbent.
This is an overhead of the recently attached Vallon Paint. The annex is already in place, and the scenery around it nearly finished. The area from the boiler house is still open. I ended up placing in a concrete road to Harrison and Rochelle, and the boiler house. I also cut out the area at the rear of the diorama for the placement of track. I had thoughts of continuing the track over both roads, but thought better of it. I'll probably include a loading dock on the portion to the right of where the tracks will be, I couldn't see myself including a loading dock, and small crane near the waters edge.
The other picture shows Vallon Paint with most of the scenery in place. This is my first time using Martin Welberg's scenic studios products, and they are wonderful. I used tuffs, bushes, both short and tall, shrubbery, etc. Great line of products. Scenic Express carries them, and I recommend them, though they might be a bit pricey for some. I also used various Woodland Scenics products, along with Heki grass, and some Silfor products as well.
Here are some shots of the diorama as it exists today. Much to do, and the water will be a challenge. Rocks have been shadowed with some weathering powders, but I've yet to add some thin, rust colored oils diluted with Turpenoid in various places. I hope to make a couple of nice trees to fit in, without taking away from the scene. I added a wood deck underneath the rear portion of the annex, and added some drums, and a shelf from a Fine Scale Minatures kit, along with some welding tanks, and a skid.
Next shot shows the concrete approach to the boiler house, and to the loading dock at Harrison and Rochelle. I had to scratch build the wood crossing due to the slight curve.
The second photo shows the rear of the stable. I threw in a watering tub, and a hand pump, that I believe came from a scale structures limited kit. It was one of those parts I was lucky to find fast. I knew it was around somewhere, and only took a couple of minutes to find. I hope manufactures add these to their kits in the future. They used to be all over the place. I also added some feed bags, and a couple bales of hay.
The third shot shows the fronts of the machine shop and apartments. I included two fire hydrants. I prefer the ones from American model builders.
Forgot the time. Gotta get to bed. Here are two final shots. I would appreciate any ideas on finishing the road surfaces. i don't consider the asphalt roads to be finished, and feel they require some updating. Hope you're enjoying the ride. Feel free to ask any questions.
Mark
Mark that is one fine job your doing on that diorama.
I wouldn't change a thing wonderful work!
Jerry
Just lovely work, Mark. It's such a great kit. I can't wait to get to mine.
In regards to the asphalt, I would airbrush different greys (roads are often numerous shades) and then I'd weather with dust, dirt, leaves, oil and fuel stains etc...
Hey mark:
Looks just beautiful so far.
Karl
Looking terrific, Mark!
You are doing a wonderful job with this diorama.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark
Very nice work, it looks great.
Mark,
Your build of this large structure kit with the new scenery you added is looking fantastic !
Tommy
Mark,
Great job on the diorama and structures. Well done, looks wonderful.
Tom ;D
I'm back, and I want to thank Jerry, Craig, Karl, Mark D., John, Tommy, Tom and all the lurkers for following along. I always come up against a road block or two, and this time, of all things, it regarded telephone poles, and telephone line. I purchased and installed Woodland Scenics new utility pole system, but found the 'hang' of the wires not to my liking. I did some research online, but couldn't find a way to make them droop appropriately, so ... I ripped them all out, and went with some left over SRMW's transformers, and wooden dowel rods. I'm still not finished with them, but included a shot of the poles I made up, and later installed.
I installed thin Berkshire Junction E Z Line in black, but thought it was too hard to see, so that was removed, and in the process I tore off one of the transformers, not a big deal, it was an easy fix. Next, I purchased the 'heavy' grade of Berkshire Junction E Z Line in green, and will use it for the main lines, leaving the thin black to the structures.
This is a shot of 3 of the utility poles. Sorry its blurry.
Next up, is the water feature. This is my first attempt at having actual depth to a water scene, so I had some mishaps along the way. I'll explain my trials and tribulations in an effort to guide those following along upon a better path.
First, I applied my leftover hydrocal rocks and pieces onto the foam board, next I applied hydrocal directly onto the foam board insulation in small areas. My advice ... DON'T do this! As I'll explain later. I applied the plaster then stippled it with a stiff bristle brush to give it texture. I did not use any sand, nor gritty sand like material. While time consuming, I liked the results. The brush would sometimes pick up the plaster, ruining what I started, so I later covered the entire water area with a thin coat of sculptamold. This helped the application of the plaster over the sculptamold, giving it a better hold, and would later provide the proper barrier for the application of the resin water.
The first picture shows the attached rocks, and the seam where I added an extension to the front of the diorama.
The second shows the applied hydrocal, with the stippled surface. Don't mind the rocks, or childlike appearance, this is only the beginning.
I'm skipping ahead, this is the finished seabed, with the colors all applied by thin washes of various acrylic paints.
In order to survive any leaks during the resin pour, I placed down a 'bathtub' of 3ML thick plastic drop around the entire base.
Here is the first resin pour, and it was a big one. Over one hundred ounces of Envirotex Lite Resin. The depth of the pour exceeded one inch in some areas. I had never done a pour this big, and thankfully, there were zero leaks, but, there were some issues which I'll display in the upcoming pictures. I used blue painters tape to seal the sides, placed formboard against the tape, and braced the sides with encyclopedias and various heavy books. (The 3ML plastic 'dam' was placed between the painters tape and the foamboard.)
The water was tinted using Woodland Scenics water tint, roughly 3 parts Navy Blue, to 1 part Turquoise.
All was well, until air pockets began to form in the center, and these pockets came from underneath, alongside the rocks I had placed in, and pushed the hydrocal up to them. All the areas where I applied sculptamold held up, the problem came strictly from areas where I covered the plaster directly over the foamboard insulation. I stood guard, and poked the air bubbles, used a hair dryer, all to no avail, the resin was setting up by the time I had to simply give up, and approach the problem after it had fully set.
The first picture is immediately after the pour, this area remained fairly problem free, the second shows the removal of the tape. I expected the resin to push out towards the foamboard, instead, the resin fell inwards. Cringe worthy I know, but a fix is soon coming. Through all this, I remained calm, and placed my faith in the second pour, and the Envirotex Resin, and I would not be disappointed.
As scary as Halloween, these are some pictures of the problem areas. Some of the holes were as deep as a quarter inch or more. In addition to the tape falling away from the walls. I took a Dremel tool to some of the air bubbled areas. While also cutting out, and trimming around some of the larger holes. This is the first attempt at curing the many issues that erupted over the areas where the hydrocal was pushed against the rocks, rather than using sculptamold over the entire surface beforehand.
This is the result of the second pour. The Envirotex resin worked wonders. I didn't have to overdo it with the repairs. I simply took my spatula and held it over the problem areas, then used a toothpick to ensure the air was driven from the many holes, then poured the remainder over the entire surface. It not only hid those mistakes, but it filled in along the sides where the tape had fallen inwards. I used the same bracing methods as before, only this time, I taped the tape to the foamboard wall, ensuring it wouldn't fall into the diorama as it had the first time.
Where I used the Dremel tool, the rough white edges disappeared, and remained hidden. I did remove some excess where the Dremel tool left a whitish appearance using an Exacto blade, but the majority of it was left as is, and to the credit of the resin, it hid the flaws. I used the same 3 to 1 mix of Woodland Scenics colors for the second pour.
You'll notice the corner was 'fixed' by keeping the tape taped to the foamboard. Many lessons learned during this experience. If you're using Envirotex Lite, along with tinting, it's pretty fool proof. Not sure how it would be with Magic Water, but Magic Water does have a leaching problem, while the Envirotex doesn't leach nearly as much. Don't panic if you make a mistake, there are always solutions. (If you look closely at the last picture underneath the corner, you'll see some foamboard. I did have a small leak, from a poor tape job around the corner. Not a bad leak, but it did prove out my 3ML plastic drop 'bathtub'. The resin didn't stick to the plastic drop.
Nice save, Mark.
the colouring of both the rocks and the tinted water is spot on. It looks great.
Cheers, Mark.
So many people just use waves painted dark with a glossy finish.
I really like your treatment of water.
I hope to go over your build again the next time I am doing water.
I'm guilty of just doing dark, glossy waves.
I will definitely use Sculptamold under my next large water pour.
Your diorama looks great!!!
Mark, Your seabed is darn pretty good.
excellent work I love it
Eric
Wow! :o That looks awesome Mark (and Darryl)! Well worth the time and effort.
Gorgeous diorama. Doug should have you do the pilot kits for his ads!
Lovely water effects. Very nice! As one who simply uses Mod Podge over a painted surface, you have my respect.
--Opa George
This model is just gorgeous. Keep the great pics flowing. I just love the rock cliff with the water under it.
Karl
Quote from: darrylhuffman on November 04, 2021, 01:30:02 AM
So many people just use waves painted dark with a glossy finish.
I really like your treatment of water.
I hope to go over your build again the next time I am doing water.
I'm guilty of just doing dark, glossy waves.
Thank you Darryl. I simply wanted to try something different, and have some actual depth. Your water looks great to me. What scale is the structure in your photo?
Quote from: vinceg on November 04, 2021, 08:00:53 AM
Gorgeous diorama. Doug should have you do the pilot kits for his ads!
Hi Vince, I'm sure many of us would love that task. Not sure that I would do it fast enough. I tend to take my time, but if Doug allowed me the honor, I would love to attempt building one of his fine kits.
Mark
Thanks to Mark D. Bob, Eric, George and Karl. Still plugging along on this one. Next up is some Mod Podge Gloss, and possibly some Liquitex Gloss Heavy Gel for waves. I'll have to experiment with the Liquitex product. Never used it before. Mark
Today is the Mod Podge Gloss addition to the water surface. I lifted Luke Towan's use of an airbrush to push the mod podge around. He's probably not the first to do this, but his video's are readily available on Youtube for many water techniques. I worked in small areas, and finished the first layer in around 30 - 40 minutes. I removed the lifted edges from the resin pour, and sanded the sides, but haven't added any resin to the sides of the diorama.
Here are a couple more pics. I'll also mention that I made a sample wave using Liquitex Gloss Heavy Gel a few weeks ago, and liked the outcome. While a still a little cloudy within the wave after a couple of weeks. I still enjoy the effect. I'm not making big waves, just a few small ones. The Liquitex kept a crisp edge at the top of the wave, and I'm not so sure Woodland Scenics water waves will leave 'crisp' edges. I could be wrong, and would like to hear from others that have made waves, with either product, or another reasonable substitute.
I'm modeling a relatively calm conditions.
Mark
That's about it for now. The Mod Podge was still wet in the photos, and dried clear. Thought I should mention that.
Mark
That looks really promising. Please share some closeups when it dries...beautiful setting[size=78%].[/size]
John
Mark-
Just read through all 10 pages of this thread, excellent work all around...
That's a beautiful water effect.
--Opa George
Outstanding scene Mark. 8)