Time for a new adventure. I bought this some time ago as DuBois is a family name. So, finally decided to give it a go.
Jan built this in N-scale, mine is HO. When I first opened the box, I thought something is missing. Big box. Not a lot of stuff. A single piece of tissue paper for something. Can't be padding.
Anyway, a bunch of lap siding with windows pre-cut out. Some plain sheets of stuff and a lot of peel-and-stick odds and ends. Oh look rolled roofing and thick plastic sheets for shingles? Loos like brick. No. They are shingles.
Hmmm, first floor is split and must be spliced to fit. Me no likey. But it's understandable why it was done this way. I'll just need to be careful how this is going to work.
Instructions are very basic. Pretty build the whole building on one page. I'll admit it took me awhile to figure out what two slabs of material were for as they weren't shown in any of the parts diagrams. But process of elimination determined what they were for. And they did include decent finished drawings. So there is that.
One thing about this peel-and-stick kit - there is no strip wood. No bracing required. So first up after figuring out where everything went. was to dig out my 1/8" square strip wood and glue in bracing.
One nice thing about the interwebs, I found several photos of the original building. I already decided that I'll need to add some bracing under the first floor. The photos reveal that there were two steps up, so that nails that down. I do have sometime to decide whether I want to add the original front canopy. The instructions did mention that it had a rail siding which is why there is a sliding door on one side. And a photo shows another side with a hard canopy as well. The kit has the version with a cloth awning.
Good looking structure Bob.....I'll be looking in. :)
I've always liked the looks of DuBois Store. Looking great so far. Do you get the interior kit also?
Really looking forward to seeing this built in H0, I used the shingles on my N-scale one , I don't think I would do it again , there are a lot of much nicer shingles to be had.
John, yes I did. Not sure how the round tables are going to work out as they look way too crowded. I'll be tackling it while waiting for glue/paint to dry.
Jan, I have decide to replace the kit shingles with black 3 tab shingles. Mainly based upon your experience.
I went ahead and added the nail holes on this one as I am planning on using some greenish weathering powder for the walls. Test looks good.
I measured out where interior bracing will go. It got a bit complicated as the front section has large windows and a ceiling so the side walls are off limits. Then there is a back wall for the front section, that has to be considered. Hopefully I got 'er done, Time will tell how well I did.
Then there is the matter of the two piece base. They show that the provided self-adhesive splice plates must be orientated lengthwise and it can't intrude into the scribed floor area as a wall goes along the width. Why they provide such as long piece is a mystery. One could almost use some front window knock-out pieces for this. Since I am adding underfloor bracing (both floor pieces were really warped), I put the splice plates on the underneath side.
I like to miter the 1/8" underfloor bracing as it can be made to look like concrete. I don't cut miters anymore. I use my Ultimation sander. Just adjust the miter gauge to 45 degrees and sand away. With the only two clean edges (no bump outs) placed in my squaring jig, I added the bracing and weighed them down with machinists blocks.
I'll have to wait and see on how much of the provided pee-n-stick trim that will be used, but the windows and shutters look good. Unfortunately, the five left most shutters had some adhesive attached to them when they went into the lase and they didn't get a full depth lase. These might just get used in the shut position. I have blasted both peel-n-stick trim/window/door slabs with primer and will see how they take paint later. The wood material has a great grain for some applications, but not when trying to replicate a metal facade or close grained trim.
Bob,
Always liked the look of that kit.
Will follow along...
Tommy
Hey Bob:
Looks like you are off to A good start.
Karl
Been playing around with colors and think I'll stay as the box.
Looking to the wall assembly, I noticed that there is no way that the first floor front wall (all windows) would be able to easily glue to the left side wall. The left wall is 1/16" material and the front is even thinner. The standard 1/8" stick is too thick and there will be a set of shelves on the left wall, part of which straddles a window. To figure out the thickness of a stiffener for the left front corner, I need to build that display shelf. And if I am going to build that one. I might as well build all of them.
The shelves have three parts: a back, a fret of "merchandise", and the visible shelving pieces. The backs, shelves, and tops of the counters were sprayed white. The "merchandise" was painted using a variety of acrylic paints. Then it was a matter of gluing it all together.
They don't look half bad. Now with the left wall unit built, I found some dimensional lumber to act as a brace and a glue edge.
Exterior walls have been painted a light green, along with the trim painted a dark green.
First up is cutting out the windows. The laser didn't go all the way through the wood and didn't even touch the self adhesive backing. I tried using an xacto, but that didn't cut much. So I brought in the heavy equipment and used a new rail nipper, sprue cutter, and a chisel blade. There were casualties, but these can be used on the back and sides.
My procedure work okay, but then I ran into the curved window and frame. I hand to cut these out from the carrier sheet and cut away to form the half circle. Here on the back side one can see no laser cuts on the back. The brown marks are from something else and do not reflect a laser cut.
The kit does include acetate for glazing and the peel and stick window backs are extremely fragile, so I found it a lot easier to place the main window part in place, remove the adhesive back, add it's glazing, add the lower sash, remove it's adhesive back, add it's glazing, then run a thin bead of PVA glue to hold it all in place. This aids corralling the tiny broken side pieces.
Then I'll need to find away to get the window casings free from the carrier sheet. But that'll be for the weekend.
Good start Bob. Looking forward to the progress shots.
Jerry
Hey Bob:
off to a good start. I'll be following along.
Karl
This thing is kicking my butt. As noted before, the windows, doors, and trim bits are printed on a grainy wood adhesive back product. The laser didn't even hit the adhesive backing. As a result I had to use a pair of new rail nippers, sprue cutters, and an X-Acto chisel blade to get groups of parts off and then trim them to size. Most parts come off okay, but door trim pieces wind up breaking across the grain.
Windows generally fit, but there are some places where the opening is a bit wide. They show window types A through E but have window styles to H. Guess they figure by this time you know what to do. It was a matter of laying a wall section flat on it's exterior, lay in the upper sash, add the upper glass, add the lower sash that already had it's glass attached. and add Canopy glue to hold everything together. This required the used of 1-2-3 blocks to keep the walls flat until the glue dried.
There are three doors (all same size) and wouldn't you know it, the precut wall openings were all different. One was perfect, one was to short, and one was too short and too wide. Sounds a bit like Goldilocks and the three doors. I did find that I needed to add some backing spanning the door opening to aid in getting the doors flush.
I should note that the laser cut window material was a bit wonky. Apparently, the laser was hot as the cut was wide, causing some pieces not to cover the window opening completely.
All windows and doors have been added and respective trim pieces cut out and trimmed. Then it was a matter of painting all of the exposed cut edges in preparation of getting installed.
After awhile, I wanted to se how the cafe chairs would go together. Also made of adhesive wood sheet. I got 2 sheets containing 24 chairs. Sheez. Talk about fiddly. I may see about making a jig for assembly. And notice the chair seat is too deep, so each will have to be trimmed. And oh, the laser did cut through these either, so each piece has to be cut out.
Good progress, Bob.
It sounds like you may as well be scratch-building.
Cheers, Mark.
I got the windows, doors and shutters installed. I deviated a bit and installed the windows and doors and then added the exterior frames.
One of the draw backs to some of the tab and slot construction is the gaps left and darker end grain material. In some places, it isn't an issue. But in others . . . . I had hoped to add a stone foundation wall. I added a perimeter of 1/8" stock to brace the provided floor but did not take into account the need to set it back the thickness of the stone sheet. Oh well. I'll need to cover a lot of the side foundation with weeds anyway, so maybe it wasn't a total mess up.
The store/diner section has a ceiling and it would appear to have some openings tailor made for lighting. This will be first structure that I have ever lit, What could go wrong?
It took several work sessions to cut out all the self-adhesive trim pieces. The laser didn't make it to the adhesive backing and only marked the surface, so it was slow going. Some trim is layered, so similar pieces of different widths are stacked. Not sure about some of the corner trim pieces. We'll see how it goes.
Now it is time to work on the interiors. The drug store was easy, comparatively speaking. The diner section will take a bunch of work. There are two sets of double booths, all out of self-adhesive material. The plans have one add the piece that has the booth seats and table legs in one piece to the wainscot wall section. How one was to add the individual end pieces and then add the seat, seat backs, and table tops, to the loose pieces was beyond me. So, I added the individual end pieces to the wall section instead. To keep them aligned, I used the single piece outline as a guide so everything would match.
Darn. I didn't take any shots of the finished booths. Stay tuned
Hey Bob:
Great progress so far. I'm following along. Can't wait for more pics.
karl
Thanks Karl. Did a quick test fit of the front facade trying to figure how the best way (at least for me) to get the doors and side walls set. Seems as though the doors for the diner and drug store are missing a bottom tab. At least that settles which way to install them best.
I added a bunch of braces for the roof sections as many had some amount of curve to them. First, it was a matter of figuring out the brace boundaries and then deciding how many and where. I'm trying to leave open an option of having the roof removable. But before adding the braces, I needed to add some roofing guide lines. The main roof will have 3-tab dark green shingle from RSLaserKits.
I needed a break from the lines and bracing, so I built a jig to build 20 chairs out of plastic scrap. I can manage about four per round. Then a short beak.
Now was a good time to glue on the upper front wall. I always try to get a roof card involved during this type of process.
With all the other electronic shortages, apparently current limiters have also been affected. Found a source, so I'll see how it goes.
Bob,
Looks like you have this one well in hand. Well done!
Tom ;D
Great job on the jig, including adding the label. I tend to forget to label jigs, and then when I want to reuse them, I can't find the right one...
dave
Spent the last several work sessions building and painting the table and chairs. I was going for the old chrome and laminate tables and chairs from my childhood. Got 'em done and stored in a plastic container to keep them safe. I soon found out that my stash of hundreds of little people doesn't contain that many seated versions. I have a bunch of unpainted figures, still on the sprue and thought that I could cut them up for seated positions. Um no. So I have ordered a group of a hundred garish little folk, most of which showed as seated. Being somewhat hidden might work, even after I repaint them.
The interior kit included some picture frames. I surfed the google machine and found some 1940's wall art. I saved them and used Word's function to size them according to the respective frame. One had to be the Frisco system map and one had to be Custer's Last Stand. I remembered the gruesome painting from my younger days and had to include it.
Once I receive the little monsters, I can get the interior tables and chairs installed with the little diners.
Wow Bob! That's really neat. :D
Bob,
Excellent, very well done.
Tom ;D
The interior looks great, Bob.
Love those paintings.
Cheers, Mark.
Hey Bob:
It's coming along nicely. Thanks for the pics.
Karl
Interior looks great , the N-scale version is quite different.
(http://janbouli.com/images/gebouwen/dubois/dubois15.jpg)
Quote from: Janbouli on July 09, 2021, 06:55:25 PM
Interior looks great , the N-scale version is quite different.
(http://janbouli.com/images/gebouwen/dubois/dubois15.jpg)
Hmm, maybe limits of the laser? Mine doesn't have any table settings. Or was this something you added? Folded napkins, candles, condiment holder all look good. Might have to see about doing the napkin thing.
So the diners arrived. One of those Amazon specials where no matter what each of the sellers called them, they pretty much all looked the same. I was expecting a baggie with the 72 little people, but they came in a blister pack. At first glace some looked decapitated, but no. Just terrible paint.
These are all the seated figures. Three folk per pose.
Some actually have facial features that come out after a little skin tone paint. Kept the hair more brownish using three tints, Next up will be clothing colors and some facial feature highlighting (maybe). At about 34 cents each, a better deal than using Woodland Scenics or Prieser figures, even though they look way better.
Bob - Preiser do bulk packs of unpainted figures. 120 seated figures (as an example) for around 25c each. There are several packs to choose from - and they are very well formed. Seems a good alternative if you are repainting painted ones.
Cheers, Mark.
Interiors (and the whole structure) look great. Hope the little people fit in the chairs/booths without much "surgery".
Jeff
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on July 09, 2021, 09:19:11 PM
Bob - Preiser do bulk packs of unpainted figures. 120 seated figures (as an example) for around 25c each. There are several packs to choose from - and they are very well formed. Seems a good alternative if you are repainting painted ones.
Cheers, Mark.
I had gone to Preiser's site to see what they made and many seem to be discontinued. A search of various retailers sites also showed a lot of their bulk packs as being discontinued. I have a hundred or so standing figures, but few seated.
Quote from: Oldguy on July 09, 2021, 08:23:10 PM
Quote from: Janbouli on July 09, 2021, 06:55:25 PM
Interior looks great , the N-scale version is quite different.
(http://janbouli.com/images/gebouwen/dubois/dubois15.jpg)
Hmm, maybe limits of the laser? Mine doesn't have any table settings. Or was this something you added? Folded napkins, candles, condiment holder all look good. Might have to see about doing the napkin thing.
The dining interior is resin cast, just some paint needed .
QuoteI had gone to Preiser's site to see what they made and many seem to be discontinued. A search of various retailers sites also showed a lot of their bulk packs as being discontinued. I have a hundred or so standing figures, but few seated.
I just checked out my local sources and it would seem you are right. Such a shame. Just as well I have stocked up over the years.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on July 10, 2021, 04:01:54 PM
QuoteI had gone to Preiser's site to see what they made and many seem to be discontinued. A search of various retailers sites also showed a lot of their bulk packs as being discontinued. I have a hundred or so standing figures, but few seated.
I just checked out my local sources and it would seem you are right. Such a shame. Just as well I have stocked up over the years.
Cheers, Mark.
I have noticed the same issue with Preiser figures. Does anyone know if this is a temporary supply chain issue related to the COVID restrictions or is it a long term problem with Preiser? Sorry, to high jack this build thread with but it is a related issue.
Quote from: S&S RR on July 10, 2021, 07:25:58 PM
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on July 10, 2021, 04:01:54 PM
QuoteI had gone to Preiser's site to see what they made and many seem to be discontinued. A search of various retailers sites also showed a lot of their bulk packs as being discontinued. I have a hundred or so standing figures, but few seated.
I just checked out my local sources and it would seem you are right. Such a shame. Just as well I have stocked up over the years.
Cheers, Mark.
I have noticed the same issue with Preiser figures. Does anyone know if this is a temporary supply chain issue related to the COVID restrictions or is it a long term problem with Preiser? Sorry, to high jack this build thread with but it is a related issue.
John,
I think the problem stems from a totally different factor. The bulk figures that you see on the market are from China and are real cheap, but not very good. I am willing to forecast that Preiser is being forced out of part of their figure business by the crap from China. Only a speculation on my part, but it seems to fit the typical mode of the Chinese businesses.
Frank / Erieman
Hey Jan:
The building and the interior look just great.
Karl
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on July 10, 2021, 08:13:40 AM
Interiors (and the whole structure) look great. Hope the little people fit in the chairs/booths without much "surgery".
Jeff
Actually they pretty much fit. Just had one guy that needed a bit of posterior liposuction.
I have no problems with decent figures, as I have several hundred of Woodland Scenics figures alone. What I found was that I needed seated people and found most of my bulk unpainted figures were all standing. But then, I hadn't planned on doing visible interiors either. Hence my emergency purchase once I found decent sitting ones were not available from decent molders in bulk.
I had bought some all sitting bunch and they came yesterday. About the same quality as the others. Although this group had some rather largish people. Top center. The bottom middle figures stand right at 6 foot tall. The two left ones are from a maritime set on a sprue and the one on the right was given to me decades ago by a gentleman who passed them out as thy res3embled him quite a bit.
Anyway, I finished getting the tables and diners installed. I noticed that I neglected the drug store and dug out and repainted some standing folks.
Seems that now I need a couple of cash registers. I printed out some cutlery sets on napkins. We'll see how those work out. I feel that I have fallen down a rabbit hole.
Let me confirm you have fallen down a rabbit hole ... That is what detailed interiors are.
However, your rabbit hole looks real good, and once you will have walls up and lighting, it will look real convincing that you have life in the building.
Very nicely done!
Hey Bob:
The interiors look like A lot of work. they came out beautifully.
Karl
Bob,
Really like the interior add on your structure.
Great modeling !
Tommy
Bob,
Most excellent, the hard work on the interiors was well worth the effort. Fantastic build.
Tom ;D
Thanks all. I decided to add some silver ware and place mats. The plates didn't really stand out, so I took some white paper, sprayed it with a gloss spray and then punched out some dinner plates. I located my old Tandy leather punch and voila, small round disks. And yes, I'll try to add some food tomorrow.
I think, I'm emerging from the rabbit hole.
I took this little detour as the large windows are going to make the adjoining wall (they are the corners of the diner) interior wall surface visible. These have the adhesive on them and I need to figure out a decent way of getting them painted after I added the acetate.
Hey Bob:
I'm sure you will figure it out. Anyway looks great so far.
Karl
Looks great Bob..... 8)
Good looking build Bob
Doug
So first is what my concerns are regarding the inside walls. Here is what the walls look like once the acetate has been added. The doors are inside an atrium, so no concern on their backside.
So, I decided that rather trying to paint the inside, I'll just use painted 1x6's. One issue has to do with the upper horizontal mullions. No way to either paint the acetate or add a piece of painted wood. I thought I would cover the upper part of the windows (including the mullion) with some "stripped window paint". I tried using blue and.white, reflective of the interior colors, but it looks horrible against the green building. I'll try using a green and white stripe and see how that looks.
Before I got too far on the position of all the interior additional bits, I needed to add the exterior trim pieces. No issues until I got to the front. But of course. The vertical trim pieces are 6 scale inches too short. Okay. I did add a 1/8" foundation, so that accounts for some of the shortage. No way to add trim bits. But the prototype store did have a canopy at one time. I did buy a bunch of roof brackets from Alexander Scale Models several years ago, and come close to what was used. So, a canopy it is.
I got my cash registers from B.E.S.T., got them painted and glued in. Sad part is that they may just get lost in the interior. Some dollops of color were applied to them, glued in place, and this building is ready to be closed in.
The atrium bits have tabs that fit into slots in both the floor and ceiling. Well, the doors had tabs only on the bottom and they didn't fit all that well, so they got cut off. I used the ceiling tabs to aid in getting the side walls properly located. I should not that the ceiling openings are already cut out and that is where I'll be adding LEDs. And here are the atriums ready for the building front.
I did add 1x material to the back sides of the doors and windows. Hopefully, these will hide the adhesive backing and acetate edges.
Got the front wall on and sure enough, found several %&$%ups. With the ceiling installed, those areas are no longer accessible. Also, the short front trim is now very apparent.
I got some electronics bits to light up the interior. The power distribution hub promises to light 28 different LEDS. It will be powered by a wall wart. The LEDS are on a break away board. Just snap off how many is needed. I'll enter a new phase of modeling (for me), lights. Hopefully I won't blow too many of these.
Once I have mastered this phase, then I can go back to building, as the roofing awaits.
Looking great, Bob.
The interior looks fantastic! I've just started on the lighting journey, too.
Cheers, Mark.
Started on fitting the roof sections. There is a large flat roof section that is supported only on two sides. So I added a cross piece. The photo also shows the openings for the ceiling lights.
The first roof section slots were way off the tabs. Not sure how this happened, but it did. I needed to add some filler pieces from scrap material. The lines were added for the tab shingles.
Eventually, this is how the roof cards are going to go. I really wished that the roof was removable, but so be it.
I started working on the lighting. First up was some 3 volt nanos (?). They come supplied with resisters applicable for various supply voltage ranges, These are warm white. Using a pancake battery, I determined the polarity.
I then hooked them up to a power distribution board. It is a slick little device. It has a jack for the standard wall wart along with screw terminals for 4 to 24 volt AC or DC supplies. There is a slide switch that will output 3volts, 12 volts or direct - i.e. supply voltage. It also has a pot to reduce the output to dim the light, a jumper that can be removed and replaced by an on/off switch, and output to another board if one wants to supply power to another board. Almost idiot proof. Just what I need.
A quick test showed that the 3 volt nanos didn't have the juice to be usable in the overhead application, but it did help with my learning curve. So up next was some 12 volt SMDs that I ordered with the distribution boards. Just a quick change of wall warts and I should be in business. Now I found that I needed to add some pig tails for the lights. I managed to find some flexible ancient speaker wire and cut them into 12 inch lengths. I found some cheapo wire strippers, picked up at some long ago convention, and was surprised how well they worked. I have it's big brother around somewhere. Tinned all the leads and started to solder all the extensions. I found that the speaker wire was an in between size for my shrink tubing. Hopefully, they will hold up.
Got the wiring 95% done. The LEDs have been hot-snotted with an additional bit added off the LED for strain relief.
So, how did it work out? Passable.
So, what did I learn? 1. Speaker wires. at least the ones I have and probably aren't more than 40 years old, don't like solder; even when using Sal-Met. I cut off the contaminated bits.
2. LEDs are 3 volt units. I must be the last person to figure this one out. I thought the ones I used were 12 volt until I found the inline resistor on the board. Dummy 3. Bigger doesn't mean brighter for SMD LEDs. I found an LED - lumen chart for future reference.
4. Future lighting will not use a largish hole in the ceiling. Too much light leakage. Here, I might see if black paint would abate most of it. 5. I need to get on scrapping some old IBM Thinkpads to get to the power supplies. BTW, these still have functioning Windows95 and MS Office installed.
Looks great Bob! You know I love a lit interior. 8)
This is a really fantastic build with you taking all the little problems in your stride.
Well done Bob.
Mike
Taking it a bit slow. I decided to replace my speaker wire leads. I have a big box of saved wire and not a foot of decent flexible hook up wire. Used blasting cap wire, yep. Hook up wire for LEDs, no. Come on USPS and deliver me some wire.
I did manage to make an entry canopy using some old scribed siding. Used weathering powder for color and 320 grit sandpaper for the roofing. Added a 2x10 edge board and hand-punched some holes for future downspouts. These will the standard bent brass rod. This will then require a base, a sidewalk and some brass tubing to replicate the clay tile drains that the down spouts will be inserted.
Hey Bob:
Looks just great. Love the colors on the main structure.
Karl
That interior with the lighting is just awesome.
Really nicely done!
(http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-280414101931.jpeg)
Bob excellent job on that interior!!
Jerry
Thanks all.
Found a box of goodies by the front door as I headed to the train cave. Inside was two boxes of hook up wire (love the holes for wire pulling), more LEDs, and some sub-miniature switches.
Now I can correct my wiring mistake. I came up with a quick and dirty color code for multi colored wire knowing that the red and black won't last forever. I had marked the negative LED wire with silver paint to make the update easier. A bunch of quick clips and I am back soldering connections. The helping hand jig sure made the job easier. Covered all the joints with shrink tubing and, voila! I like this so much better than what I originally had done.
Now I can mount the building on a base and get ready to add the roofing.
Got her planted on some 1/2" foam core so work can commence on the roof. One issue with "thick" roof cards is the gap created at the peaks. As it worked out I had some fractional size material that fit nearly perfectly. Once they dried, it was just a matter of trimming each of the sides flush with the roof decks. I did find some major gaps that need to be filled prior to adding the roofing.
When dealing with "rolled roofing", I like to cut it to prototype width (3') and length (33.3'). Normally, I would have started on the front edge, but as it will be a funky shaped piece, I started with a full row at the back side. The next row was started with the cut off piece, and on down the roof.
Once this section has been done, then it is a matter of adding some flashing where the sloped section meets the flat roof and all of the valleys and then add the 3 tab shingles.
I decided to add some covered docks at the dock doors now it has been married to the base. I used a piece of sticky note to visualize the size.
Hey Bob:
The roof is under way and looks great so far.
Karl
The roof is going to look great.
Flat roof done, so I added the flashing for the transition between it and the slopey roofs. Then added the valley flashing. I just spray painted some white paper with gray rattle can stuff.
Time to move on to the sloped roof sections. For three tab shingles, one starts with a blank row, overlaid with the first three tab strip. I mark where the strip meets the valley and cut appropriately. I did make a cutting guide, bit I don't use it much and each strip has to be cut in place.
I can't use transfer tape as I need adhesive on the strip above the tabs to fully secure the material.
Just a semi-quick note on the RSLaser shingles. First, I really love these. But the instructions are a bit off. There are 20 strips of shingles, not 23 per sheet. The sheet maybe 4x6, but the shingle strips are 5 11/16 long. So, given that each tab will cover 1/16", there are 20 of them, each sheet will cover 7.1 sq in or 28.4 sq in per package, not 24 sq in as advertised. The main issue is the time involved. The last photo contains one sheet of shingles, with some spare bits left over. Do not trash the cut offs until the roof is complete.
I can only do one sheet at a work session, lest my eyes get cranky. So I do have side project in the works that keeps be occupied.
Thanks Bob, Happy you like them. Will change the directions as did not when I redid the files to better fit the packaging and fit on the material better for cutting. Rather give you more then what it says then less. Plus that allows for some waste when you trim the ends on the roof.
rich
Quote from: rslaserkits on August 08, 2021, 01:58:42 PM
Thanks Bob, Happy you like them. Will change the directions as did not when I redid the files to better fit the packaging and fit on the material better for cutting. Rather give you more then what it says then less. Plus that allows for some waste when you trim the ends on the roof.
rich
No problem. Please also change "exposer" to "exposure". Just my OCD kicking in.
I managed to get one of the gable roofs done. The very last row does need to have a row of just the 3 tab shingles. The blank material above them is just cut off using a new razor blade once the glue has grabbed.
With the small gable roof section, it is best to tackle it as you shingle the adjacent roof. This will aid in getting both rows at the same roof elevation.
Looks very nice Bob.
Hey Bob:
The roof looks just great. Keep the photos flowing.
Karl
Interesting. The shingle color is a dark green, but the camera sees blue. Hmm.
When running tabbed shingles one concern is alignment. I took care of the vertical component by drawing lines 1/16" apart on all roof cards. The horizontal, when broken by a gable, can be more problematic. I'll run one side of the roof up to the gable peak, just shy of the first full row. What we need to do is to ensure that the tab alignment on the unworked side will match what was just completed. I'll lay a full strip across to the edge of the roof edge. I'll note how much of a shingle will over hang it and be cut off. In this case, I got luck in that the overhangs are close to being a full tab width or close to a half tab. I label each descending row on what it should be, full or half. I do this until I get to the first row. Now I have an idea of what I need, full tab or half tab at the roof edge to start the first row.
When that side is done, with any kind of luck, the first full row of shingles should not have any tab slots over each other.
One thing about these and other three tab shingle sheets. The narrow piece is the starter row. The first string of shingle tabs go over this piece. If needed there is a second thin strip that can be used. The wide strip, I cut and use for the ridge shingles. Measure the depth of a shingle tab and cut to length. Also note that there are some left over strips when all the shingle strips have been cut loose. Save these to trim for ridge shingles as well. I also save all shingle scraps that can be converted into ridge shingles as well.
hey Bob:
A little more progress on the roof. Looks just great so far.
Karl
This works well for setting the parallel lines for shingles: https://incra.com/measuring_marking-trules.html (https://incra.com/measuring_marking-trules.html)
Another option is to draw them on the computer, glue the paper with the alignment lines to the roof stock, and then lay shingles on the paper.
dave
Nice job with the shingles Bob..... 8)
Quote from: deemery on August 12, 2021, 11:15:11 AM
This works well for setting the parallel lines for shingles: https://incra.com/measuring_marking-trules.html (https://incra.com/measuring_marking-trules.html)
Another option is to draw them on the computer, glue the paper with the alignment lines to the roof stock, and then lay shingles on the paper.
dave
Both good options. I just use my old gluing jig (it has a true 90 degree corner) and a set of ancient 30/60/90 triangles.
Quote from: deemery on August 12, 2021, 11:15:11 AM
This works well for setting the parallel lines for shingles: https://incra.com/measuring_marking-trules.html (https://incra.com/measuring_marking-trules.html)
SNIP
I ordered a 6" and a 12" ruler on the 12th from Rockler and received them today! These look really, really good.
Thanks Dave for the suggestion.
Now that each roof peak has been prepped, time for making the cap or ridge shingles. On each sheet of shingles there is a length of material the same width of a shingle. But there will be a bunch of scraps that can be cut and used for the ridge shingles as well. Note the one shown next to a shingle. The remaining pieces get sliced to width. Not perfect, but usable. To aid in bending, I find the middle and, using a pencil, draw a line down the middle of the strip. This put in a crease. These then get cut the same depth as the shingle. Use a chopper with a new blade.
It took a couple of work sessions, but all the shingles have been added.
Quote from: Oldguy on August 16, 2021, 09:52:21 PM
I ordered a 6" and a 12" ruler on the 12th from Rockler and received them today! These look really, really good.
Thanks Dave for the suggestion.
What I find works best is to tape the subroof so the bottom aligns with the edge of the workbench or a board. This allows the T part of the Incra T Square to run along the bottom of the subroof without "falling off the edge." Also, keep your pencil sharpener handy or use a small diameter leadholder (I use a 0.3 leadholder)
dave
Hey Dave:
WOW!!! really beautiful.
Karl
Excellent roofing work Dave.....the ridge shingles look great. 8)
Guys, NOT MY shingles! I just suggested how to draw the guidelines.
dave
Quote from: deemery on August 18, 2021, 09:31:56 AM
Guys, NOT MY shingles! I just suggested how to draw the guidelines.
dave
Hee, hee.
Bob,
Very nicely done. I love the interior details and the roof shingles. I'll need to order some of those. They look very similar to the ones by Northeastern.
Tom ;D
Okay, where was I. I made two down spouts from brass rod for the front overhang. These will get painted with black auto primer and then painted the trim color. The front now needed a set of steps that were made from scrap plastic.
There are two sets of docks doors. One on each side. I decided that they each needed a wood dock and canopy. It was a simple matter of fabricobbling bits a pieces for these.
Then on to adding some sanitary vents and the supplied chimney.
So here is where I am now.
The left side has the dock and side stairs. The kit has these tabs on both sides that need to be camouflaged with shrubbery or something. On the rear I added a bulkhead door for access to the boiler. And more tabs that need to be hidden.
And that is about it for this build right now. I'm not exactly sure where this will be planted. Meaning I have no idea if the docks are going to be accessed from a road in front or from a back alley. So, I don't want to add any scenery to this at this time.
I will admit that adding the lighting was a lot easier than I thought and now can't wait to lite up everything else I build. Sad, that I jumped into this area kinda late in the game.
Very nice Bob
Beautiful detailing, Bob. I love seeing downspouts added to structures. They add that extra bit of pizazz!
--Opa George
Looking great Bob! The downspouts are a really nice detail.