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Messages - Bernd

#1
As I said on MRH, your power supply is causing that flicker. It isn't filtering out the AC component causing the LEDs to flicker. Us a pure filtered DC supply. Batteries supply the purest DC voltage possible.

Bernd
#2
Evening crew. Was digging through my slides from way back when looking for specific pictures. I found almost all I was looking for.

Everybody is excited about seeing 4014. Back in 1975 I got a chance to get up close and personal with 4014's older brother, 4012 in Steam Town Vermont.

slides002.jpg

slides003.jpg

slides004.jpg

slides005.jpg

And while up in that area I stopped by what was then the home of the two foot gauge railroad museum and got a picture of the now being restored Flying Yankee (?).

slides001.jpg

Bernd
#3
Quote from: deemery on June 07, 2026, 09:34:02 AMThere's a new episode of "Wreck2Restored" on YouTube:  https://www.youtube.com/@Wreck2Restored  They're restoring a pair of 2' Davenport locos from the early 1900s.  I'm learning lots about machining and about how a steam loco works and is maintained.   Given the maintenance on a 2' 0-4-0, I can't imagine the maintenance required on a Big Boy!

dave

I've been following that video also. The concept is the same except for bigger lathes, bigger mills and large overhead cranes.

Bernd
#4
Baggage Car - Daily Chat / Re: My disappearance
June 06, 2026, 06:01:58 PM
Good to hear your back and recovereing. Glad it was all for the better.

Bernd
#5
QuoteNo worry, Bernd.

I like to provide good, reliable information. I learned about the "72-hour rule" from going down rabbit holes since 2016. Wait 72 hours and see if the rumor mill has been right or wrong. Guess I haven't learned my lesson yet. But thanks.

Bernd
#6
Should have done the "72-hour rule". Asked AI if an agreement was signed on June 5. AI couldn't find any activity that the US was involved in such a signing. Did some further research and found that Trump had once mentioned that it was an interesting subject.

Time to sit back and see what develops and apply the 72-hour rule.

Bernd
#7
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on June 05, 2026, 02:17:24 PMWith the major earthquake fault lines there I doubt bridges nor tunnels would work. 

Jeff

Interesting question. I looked it up. Seems like they don't happen on the surface but anywhere from 7km to 127km below the surface. I don't think the tunnel would be that deep.

Source:
 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_earthquakes_in_Alaska

Bernd
#9
I mentioned this subject back in September 2025 on MRH. It was poop-pooed as impossible to do. This is a project that was talked about way back in history.

I said on MRH:

QuoteLooks like the Bearing Straight crossing by bridge or tunnel has been talked about quite a bit.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bering_Strait_crossing

Putin's envoy boasts of plans to sign agreement with US on Chukotka-Alaska tunnel

https://www.pravda.com.ua/eng/news/2026/06/04/8037791/index.amp?utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email
 
Looks like Elon Musk will be involved. The signing happens today.

Aught to make for some interesting conversion.

Bernd
#10
Quote from: Ensign on June 01, 2026, 06:59:12 PMThanks! Bernd.
Like I mentioned at the begining, all of the supplies & tools used in this tutorial were purchased from Ngineering.

Greg

Thanks Greg. I didn't start reading this thread from the beginning. I should go back to the beginning and look for the info.

Just went through there web site. Nice collection of products.

Thanks again.

Bernd
#11
Nice tutorial. Where was the tubing bought?

Bernd
#12
While sitting here at Northern Command (1000 Island camp) waiting for the rain to come I've been contemplating on designing a mechanical stop for the dumper. Since it's using magnets to drive the rotary part, I am looking at using a solid stop. It won't damage the drive. It'll just keep slipping on the magnetic drive wheels. Also need to come with a design to hold the car on the tracks while rotating it when dumping the loaded car.

Should have brought it with me to get a better idea if some of the ideas I have would work. Maybe next time, but then it probably wouldn't be raining, and the other half would want to go for a boat ride. Water temp up here is 50°.

Bernd
#13
Quote from: Philip on May 22, 2026, 10:46:44 AMNice work Bernd. I should really pay attention. I thought you were making the bearings flanged by turning them down one at a time. A clever way to omit friction!
Philip

Disregard my PM :-[




QC_0002.jpg

Thanks Philip.

If you go back to page 1 post#7 it shows all the parts and assembly of said parts. I used a brass rod drilled out and reamed for the bearings to fit in snug. The OD of the rod fits the curved cutouts on the chassis frame. The bearing tubes were soldered on first using the jig in the center of the picture. The bearings and wheels were then pressed on to gauge.

Bernd
#14
Quote from: labdad on May 21, 2026, 06:39:14 PMFWIW I think embossed rivets are acceptable, especially in your scale.
MJinTN

Found my pictures of my rivet tool. I made this probably 30 years ago while I was still employed at the place I was employed working in the toolroom. It's a copy of an article that was written up in Model Railroader except the guy used wood. I used a piece of cast iron and tool steel.





I like making my own tooling when I can. Helps to have machine tool's and also helps to have knowledge of how to use them properly.

Bernd
#15
Quote from: deemery on May 21, 2026, 06:48:41 PMAre you thinking something electro-mechanical for the stop like a limit switch, or something digital?

dave

Staying away from "electro-mechanics" as far as I can. They are too troublesome when the electronics don't want to work anymore. Half the time you can't find the same components anymore because they updated the device or chips. It will be strictly a mechanical stop. Kind of like a railroad type bumping post. Solid and immoveable at slow speed.

Bernd
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