Your AI app does not seem to know much about how vehicles navigate. Looks like a massive grid lock about to happen at the T-intersection in the first picture.

Bernd

Quote from: Pennman on August 17, 2025, 10:46:13 AMRegarding your post (above), Bernd, I wish you would bring that brass boxcab to the front with a nice how-to thread.
It surely looks like a great piece of equipment!

Rich

I did the two boxcabs dedicating Geezer here: https://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=6790.0

Once I'm back home for the season I'll do an SBS on the electric boxcabs.

I'm looking at getting the Carvera this fall and building two HOn3 East Broad Top cabooses and doing an article for RMC. All tentative for right now.

Bernd

Something you scratch builders may have not thought about is this machine will cut many different types of materials. You can cut out wood without having a vacuum system suck out the smoke, since there isn't any smoke. Unless your cutters rpm is so high it sets the wood fire. I've never heard of that happening.

The best part is if you want to make a second building as accurately as the first was done you already have a file that will cut parts just like the first one.

Case in point. My critter sheds. One using plywood. The other using acrylic sheet plastic.





Bernd

Quote from: KentuckySouthern on August 16, 2025, 11:26:30 PMInteresting machine and well produced video.

She does excellent videos. Her brother helps in the production of the vides.

Bernd

QuoteThe "MicroLumina device" is just a current limiter for LEDs.  But that consumes voltage (about 3v) when it's put in the circuit.  So with a current limiter, I could power 3 LEDs on a 12v circuit.   Without one, I get 4 LEDs on 12v.

B~

QuoteI'm sure you've used an expensive tool that you had where there was a cheaper alternative, too!   

Yes I have. I'm sure the Carvera CNC machine comes to your mind. That's a multi material use device, as where that power supply is a single use device.

I had to research what that "MicroLumina" product was. Looks like it can be used if don't know what your power supply voltage is or varies while in use. I can't see using that if one knows how much voltage a power supply puts out.

B~

That could have been done cheaper with a 12volt power supply and a couple of resistors plus some math.

https://www.amazon.com/Variable-ENGINDOT-Adjustable-Adjustment-Alligator/dp/B09KMS74PT

Bernd

Dave,

I believe you want to wire your lights in series, correct?

I'd wire them in parallel. Why? If one of the LEDs dies the others will also go out. Now you need to find which one gave up the ghost. Think of it like looking for the bulb that blew in the Christmas tree lights in a string of many. Just a suggestion to contemplate.

Bernd

Quote from: deemery on August 13, 2025, 06:12:45 PMWhat's the price range for those? 

Seems 3D printers are around $300-$500.  Engravers (Cricut) are $100-$300.  Laser Cutters $1000-$3000. (If someone has better numbers, please share them.)

Of course, that doesn't count the cost of the design software or the biggest cost, the time to learn that software....

dave

This will give you all the info.

https://www.makera.com/products/carvera-air?variant=46578639470817

If you are doing 3D printing you already have and know the software. The Carvera CAM software is part of the package.

The Cricut doesn't have engraving capabilities. All it has is a cutting blade. Kind of tough to cut any kind of metal with that.

The machine I'm looking at is close to $3,000. If you watch the videos it'll show all the material you can use. A printer only allows you to do resin plastic. I don't think resin printed wheels work good on nickel silver rail. No electrical contact.

Bernd

Quote from: tct855 on August 13, 2025, 05:17:51 PMBernd~,
      I'm not sure what I'm doing, but I'll figure it out....maybe.
                                                                            Thanx Thom...

Hey Brother~

You need to stop by more often. 

Bernd

I've been researching table top CNC machines. Although I have two now, ROBO router/engraver and the Sherline CNC mill I like what I see in this machine and it's capability with contour milling and a fourth axis. I'm hoping I can get one toward the end of this year when my finance guy tells me I need to draw out $7,000 before the government get's it.

https://www.makera.com/products/carvera-air?variant=46578639470817

Here's a video of a cute oriental female with a demo of what it can do.


Plus a follow up video.


Something resin printers can't do.

Bernd

For some reason the pictures didn't show up until after I edited them in my reply. Must be the delay though my cell phone hot spot and being up at Northern Command.

Bernd

Quote from: tct855 on August 13, 2025, 04:46:21 PM

Thom,

Fixed it so the pictures show.

I've got one of those in three foot gauge. My has a motor in the tender though.

Bernd

Quote from: jbvb on August 13, 2025, 09:56:12 AMBernd, I'd trust the manufacturer's spec unless something blew up when I followed it. But there are a lot of oddball parts out there; I'd always verify any general result from web search. And AI can be completely sure about a totally bogus result, so I treat it like that type of person.

I don't know what's so hard about figuring this out.

QuoteWhat you should find is that red, green, or yellow LEDs have relatively low forward voltage ranging from 1.6-2.2V. However, blue and white LEDs can begin conducting from 2.5-4V.

This gives you a range of voltages used by the various colored LED's. That chart I linked to gets you down to a closer voltage for the color you are using. Besides an LED is current controlled and not voltage controlled. Filament bulbs are voltage controlled and not amperage controlled. You can take a 12 volt bulb and hook it to a 12 volt car battery capable to 200amps or more cranking the engine over yet the bulb doesn't blow. You can also hook an LED (.025 Ma)to that same car battery with a (12v/.025Ma = 480 ohms)or higher (510 ohm) resistor with out blowing it up.

I'd go with the higher voltage with what ever color LED you are using and the higher Ma suggested for that color and then work my way down till I get the brightness I want. Problem solved. Nothing magical about it. Just like figuring out how to set your CV parameters on DCC.

Bernd

Quote from: deemery on August 13, 2025, 08:36:12 AMI have the instructions for the new VOM, and followed them.  An on-line discussion said 'connect the black lead first', but the order in which I applied the probes didn't make any difference with either meter.

dave

A simple question to Google asking for forward voltages of LED's gave a cheaper answer than buying a VOM. Probably asking ChatGPT would have helped too.

https://www.circuitbread.com/ee-faq/the-forward-voltages-of-different-leds

Bernd