As I said on MRH, your power supply is causing that flicker. It isn't filtering out the AC component causing the LEDs to flicker. Us a pure filtered DC supply. Batteries supply the purest DC voltage possible.
Bernd
Bernd
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Show posts MenuQuote from: deemery on June 07, 2026, 09:34:02 AMThere's a new episode of "Wreck2Restored" on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@Wreck2Restored They're restoring a pair of 2' Davenport locos from the early 1900s. I'm learning lots about machining and about how a steam loco works and is maintained. Given the maintenance on a 2' 0-4-0, I can't imagine the maintenance required on a Big Boy!
dave
QuoteNo worry, Bernd.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on June 05, 2026, 02:17:24 PMWith the major earthquake fault lines there I doubt bridges nor tunnels would work.
Jeff
QuoteLooks like the Bearing Straight crossing by bridge or tunnel has been talked about quite a bit.
Quote from: Ensign on June 01, 2026, 06:59:12 PMThanks! Bernd.
Like I mentioned at the begining, all of the supplies & tools used in this tutorial were purchased from Ngineering.
Greg
Quote from: Philip on May 22, 2026, 10:46:44 AMNice work Bernd. I should really pay attention. I thought you were making the bearings flanged by turning them down one at a time. A clever way to omit friction!
Philip
Disregard my PM![]()
Quote from: labdad on May 21, 2026, 06:39:14 PMFWIW I think embossed rivets are acceptable, especially in your scale.
MJinTN


Quote from: deemery on May 21, 2026, 06:48:41 PMAre you thinking something electro-mechanical for the stop like a limit switch, or something digital?
dave