Thanks guys, what I was trying to achieve was a structure built of scrap wood laying around a sawmill and pushed up the tracks to the site of a new cookhouse on WSLC property.

Think next time I build one of these I will use board on board , no batons, and make it look like fresh sawn lumber directly from the mill.

Might also be interesting to build one of these as abandoned with scorch marks from a fire and open the roof up to exposed rafters and burned shingles.

Things you think of when day dreaming.     This particular ***design**** I built was featured on the cover of o scale magazine of DON KLOSE Schenectady NY layout as a hunting lodge in the hills, it was faded green

mike lynch................HAIRBALL

Quote from: GPdemayo on July 26, 2020, 10:07:17 AM

Quote from: PRR Modeler on July 25, 2020, 03:33:00 PM
Very nice Greg. Very professional looking.

Thanks Curt.....the skills are getting better, but still not up to snuff to tackle some of the more complex kits. 

GP----When George instructed to make 2 side walls, it wasn't necessary to make another template. All you had to do was flip the wood frame over and apply the wood siding to it.  It was that simple.

From what you are learning in building FSM 130 , you can use the same techniques to *scratch build* wood framed walls for anything you desire.   This leads to board on board construction.  many of Georges kits feature that same building technique , its like going to school. !!!  FSM -U

mike .....................HAIRBALL

This is one of 3 fsm kits I never built but owned them.  Also the 165 rock bunker I never built and #30 signal tower.

Reading the story and viewing the pictures makes me wish I would have built it.  Now working in O scale this would be a scratch build and be a mini monster.  it would be impressive to look at , as will this when finished.

mike lynch---------------------HAIRBALL

nailed it, crushed it like a Barlinka grape , spiked the build.  !!! Vines and signs just right.

Am surprised George never did an update on this as a newer kit with his new techniques and lead brick walls, laser cut wood walls.

I would like to scratch build this in O and use " trains of texas " brick walls heavily distressed & warped and builders in scale real copper raised seam roofing.

mike..........HAIRBALL

When I just saw the title and FSM kit 30 your going to build it, I thought , this is going to be an adventure, why don't I read this to see what the maestro Karl comes up with.

Well I have to say, you made it seriously better and those shingles ,  whoever produced them BIS ? really finish the structure off.

Great job

mike lynch............HAIRBALL

excellent modeling and subtle weathering = a great model

I can see studying this build that its a new version of Georges #110 , a great kit in its own right.  This goes to another level of detail not available to us back in 70's.  I scratch built this once in O scale for a lawyer who had a street car layout as the street car company headquarters.

mike lynch..........HAIRBALL

thank you all.

I think if I was to build #6 of this I would use a couple other floquil flo-stains I have acquired.   Waiting for HICKORY to be delivered and Naturel pine.

mike

excellent end result, lots of finicky detail.

great job

mike.............HAIRBALL

here are a few pictures of a Thomas Yorke WSLC cookhouse , one of 4 examples I built .  This one was done using FLOQUIL FLO-STAIN wood colors on the board and baton siding.

I used paper bag cut into strips as the roofing.  Colored that with ROOF RED floquil .  Tar lapping lines were done with a really small brush.  Some staining to illustrate smoke was done with Bradgon weathering powder.

All the deck wood from northeastern lumber,   was done using Fiebings leather dye, USMC black and 99% pure rubbing alcohol.

The brass MOOSE rack on the wall was from Dave Braun at THE BACKSHOP , now owned by keith Wiseman.

mike lynch

interesting to take a look at both structures and note the improvements in one, white one over the blue.

mike        HAIRBALL

GEORGE stand up and take a bow, that is a beautiful finished structure.  Looks as good as the original advert if not better.

Anybody seeing these pictures of your build is probably going to jump on one of it ,  if it appears on ebay.  Same could be said for his other creations of that period.  The guy ?? who designed and produced these originally had a real vision for modeling.

Think he decided he wanted to be rich and went into housing development in Arizona ?  Our hobbies loss.

mike lynch....madmike3434 ....HAIRBALL

I use lake Ontario beach sand as the base to cover the surface of the plywood board .  Gives a great surface for the foams to stick to.    After that I use the fine ground coloured foams from Woodland Scenics along with their spray glue.  I also like their Foliage bags and use them to create vines on walls.

Because I am working in O scale the beach sand can get a little big so you have to sift it.  The really finely powdered sifted material turns dark brown like mud and doesn't look right.

mike lynch ..........HAIRBALL

This is another of my scratch built O scale structures, representing a rural or small town garage.

http://on30center.com/on30/library/articles/madmike/boondock/boondock.html


I also built the blue one first but never detailed it to boondocks level

http://on30center.com/on30/library/articles/madmike/busted/busted.html

mike lynch   MADMIKE3434     NOW HAIRBALL

Here is a link to a diorama structure I built in O scale, roughly based on B I S tidewater wharf.

mike lynch            madmike3434       HAIRBALL

http://on30center.com/on30/library/articles/madmike/ah/ah.html

Quote from: postalkarl on April 14, 2020, 02:14:32 PM
Hey Steve:

I also have this FSM kit. I was looking through my stuff stored in boxes just see what was in them. Your not gonna believe what I found. I didn't even know I had there nor do I know where they came from anymore. As can be seen they are plaster castings. As can be seen one wall need to be repaired somehow.

Karl

KARL..........from the looks of those hydrocal castings they most likely are very thin and thin equals fragile.  Will take a lot of creativity to duplicate some doors and windows to fit those openings.   Because JIMMY offers them as a licensed re-issue ??  I would buy the complete set for the structure/kit.

If you somehow manage to crack a wall, never insert any type of glue into the broken joint and the joint will not close up.  Better to use 1/8 or 1/4 sq basswood behind it as a stiffener.

mike lynch....  madmike3434..........HAIRBALL

The best way to attach the walls together is use a 1/4" square basswood stick and coat two a-joining sides with HOUSEHOLD GOOP .  It will bond to the hydrocal and still offer a little flex to the goop.  You will be able to pick up the walls assembled and handle it , safely.