Winter Challenge 25-26 - Fiordland Lobster Company - Tellynott Depot

[Mark Dalrymple]

Part 2 - While the rooftop towers and cupola dried, I scratchbuilt some doors.

Photo 5 - My method for this is to tape some low tack painters tape, sticky side up, to my cutting mat.  I tape this just above one of the horizontal lines on the mat and can then use this to line things up.  I mark my door widths (internal measurement) and door centres and draw right angle lines at these points on the tape.  I then set up my chopper at the correct length for the vertical timbers.  I generally paint the doors the cladding colour and the trim in an off white.  I used Josonya's antique green (which is pretty close to the moss green cladding colour) and Folk Art vintage white for the trim.  I used 6x1's and 4x1's for the timber.  The one inch thick stripwood is a bit more fragile and difficult to work with, but results in scale thickness doors.  The vertical timbers are laid with slight gaps between them.  I used 6x1's but worked both from the centre out and the outside in, using 4x1's as necessary.  6x1's are added as facings for the double doors using canopy glue, and these sit slightly proud of the door edges.  In this way the facings can sit back hard against the cladding and the doors will be flush with the cladding.


Photo 6 - 4x1's are then added to create bracing for the doors.  I cut these to size in situ using a single edged razor blade.


Photo 7 - The horizontal pieces are cut to allow the doors to open.  Hinges are added.  These are Vector cut ones.  I think I may add bolt heads.  You can see I have trimmed the door head ends.  Thresholds are added and once the canopy glue has dried completely, I cut the tape and then carefully peel it off from the back of the doors.  It is best not to leave this job for more than a day or two, as the glue on the tape holds better and better as time goes on.


Photo 8 - Here are the second set.  These hinges are Tichy Train Group ones.  You can see I changed up the design for a bit of variety.


More soon, cheers, Mark.

[friscomike]

Howdy Mark, 

That's excellent work on the doors.  The hinges look terrific.

Have fun,
mike

[Philip]

Awesome!

[PRR Modeler]

Excellent job on the door. I'm ordering me some hinges!

[Mark Dalrymple]

Howdy Mark,

That's excellent work on the doors.  The hinges look terrific.

Have fun,
mike

Thanks, Mike.

I don't believe Vector cut are in business anymore, but Tichy Train Group sure are.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Awesome!

Thanks, Philip!

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Excellent job on the door. I'm ordering me some hinges!

Thanks, Curt.

I believe it will have to be the Tichy Train Group ones.

Cheers, Mark.

[deemery]

Vector Cut did -really cool- stuff!  I was sorry they went away, and I wish someone would look at the kinds of things they did and come out with a similar line.  (Laser cut or 3D printed.)

dave

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hi guys.

Photo 1 - I decided that because I needed to flash against the brickwork, the cupola and the towers, that I may as well add masking tape rolled roofing to the entire roof.  This roofing should be above eye height, so I opted to use the tape at full width, rather than cutting it down to the existing lap widths on the styrene roofing.  I first sanded the styrene roofing to give it some tooth so the tape would adhere better.  For this job I used high tack tape.  Here you can see I have added tape with flashings to the brickwork and window wall.  For the window wall piece I measured from the edge of the lap back to the window wall and then added 1.5mm for the flashing.


Photo 2 - Here I am getting the piece ready to go in front of the tower.  I put a small fold at the tower end for a flashing.  I then put in position using tweezers to hold the end with the lap.


Photo 3 - I placed my ruler against the tower front and marked this position on the tape at the edge of the lap.


Photo 4 - The piece was then carefully placed in position, using the tweezers to get the lap right on the pencil mark and the edge flush and parallel with the lap in the styrene.  I then cut a small nick in the tape at the corner of the tower.


Photo 5 - Finally, I piece of tape was cut to the correct width and added, lapping the roofing at each end.  Again, by lining the front of the piece of tape up with the styrene lap and keeping it nice and parallel, and providing you have got your width just right, after pressing the tape in position you should end up with a nice flashing.  I use my finger to press the tape down, running it backward and forward, my finger nails to press it into the roofing laps and flashing edges, and a toothpick whenever the going gets rough (or tricky).  By using a toothpick when adhering the flashing to the board and batten cladding, and doing every second board first and then coming back to do all the remaining boards, the tape stretches around the battens.  The ends of the roofing were cut back with scissors and the remaining flashing folded over the edge.


More soon, cheers, Mark.

[PRR Modeler]

Great job Mark.