BCW RDG Arch Roof Passenger Cars

[jbvb]

Repost of an RR-Line thread begun 19-Jan-2014. Potentially of interest to people building other flat-molded passenger car kits.
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Plans for a number of Reading RR steel passenger cars were published in the Nov. 1984 Model Railroader. I've got some info on the 70 foot arch roof PBn coaches and CVi combines the B&M purchased used in 1946 and 1952 here:

http://www.faracresfarm.com/jbvb/rr/bmrr/passenger.html

I built three of BCW's kits years ago, but in 2014 as I got ready for operations, I needed more commuter consists.

I'd brought this coach kit along on a trip some time back. I got the body assembled but hadn't brought references for the details.



I'd been asked to do "build models and talk to people" as part of the Hub Division setup at the Wenham (MA) Museum. The lighting in the
room was decent, so I got almost all the details applied: side and end grabs, roof ventilators and low-voltage DC train lighting conduit,
battery box and simple brake gear. It's the most common B&M configuration, with conventional vestibules, six roof vents and diaphragms (not yet applied for painting convenience).

1-Feb-2014:  The way I apply .033 brass wire for the train-lighting conduit drew interest at the B&M get-together at W. Springfield, so:



I drilled angled holes to match prototype pictures. I've had problems in the past because styrene and brass expand at different rates with temperature. This has been enough to pull glue joints loose, so I drill the roof #80 on either side and tie the conduit down with single strands from old electrical cords twisted together inside. A friend says he's finding this useful in putting brass details on a plastic steam loco boiler.



I seem to recall earlier versions of this kit having plastic steps. But these are metal, so I attached them with Walthers Goo. One kit had a step opening that was larger than the step, the other was a decent fit. Grab irons are all applied, and I need to buy a vial of quality #79 drills - I've broken 3 or 4 on these two cars where my quality #80s make dozens of holes.

When I build another (two untouched in the kit box stack) I will ream or tap the truck screw holes - I sheared one of the supplied screws off last night. I hoped to airbrush this during upcoming warm weather, so I got cracking with my left-hand-twist drills.

3-Feb-2014: I hadn't ever needed to get a broken-off screw out of styrene. I tried drilling it, but I couldn't center-punch a starting hole. So, in the spirit of "when you have a hammer, all your problems look like nails", I put the body in the milling machine vise and used a nice sharp 3/16" 4-flute end mill to remove the screw and everything around it.



Conveniently, I had a piece of 3/16" sprue around, from the color probably from another BCW kit. This photo also shows the steps Goo'ed in place. The cars were ready for paint, but I didn't get to it for a bit.

Dave1905 said:

If the doors are closed the traps will be down so there will be a "floor" in the step well

True, Dave, but these are headed for the commuter fleet. For all the passenger cars I've built, nothing I've done yet is really contest-worthy - only a few interiors, none complete. That changed years later when I started on that AP certificate, but I doubt I'll ever go back to re-do the operating fleet.

[jbvb]

23-Feb-2014: I airbrushed the roofs Floquil Grimy Black, the underbodies Weathered Black and the sides AccuPaint Passenger Maroon.  That last was kind of tired, so I wound up diluting it 1:1 with lacquer thinner to get it through my airbrush.



I hammered old tire weights to fit between the center sills and applied KitBits #95A trucks. The MR drawings show 8' wheelbase and 13' over the beams. The BCW trucks match the dimensions, but are longer than the Overland trucks I'd used on earlier RDG cars. They didn't swing cleanly using either molded-in pivot hole, so I drilled #50 between the two holes; this seems to work but I won't know for sure till I install couplers.

6-Mar-2014: Nelson458 (Tony) asked about my airbrush.  I have a Paasche H.

The tire weights take considerable time to hammer out, which is why A-Line sells quite a bit of their "moldable lead".

Glen had asked about the maroon color. Some B&M modelers use either E-L Maroon or Wisconsin Central Maroon. I see Scalecoat has the latter, but they aren't shipping to Canada either. Which is too bad, as I have some of the special colors they did for the CN SIG a few years ago. I see they also have a B&M Maroon, which I will have to try. You aren't that far from the US, but I suppose once in the US you might have to drive to Spokane for a hobby shop.

All that's left was two evenings with decals and airbrush sessions for the dull varnish and weathering. But scenery beckoned.

7-Mar-2014: Decals are on, but only after I walked the yards and checked the storage boxes for the numbers of my previous cars in this series:



These are 1401 and 1432. This picture also makes it clear how differently I located the roof vents. There were variations, but I don't think I'll show off this closer spacing to the B&M RRHS. Warmer weather will make applying the dull varnish and weathering more pleasant.

23-Sep-2018: Bumping this old thread because:

I should have used Bethlehem Car Works (or Kitbits, Labelle since 2024) #95B trucks with 8-foot wheelbase - they don't have the long frame extensions past the wheels. I used them to re-truck the ex-RDG cars I built earlier, installing the Overland brass trucks on Laconia and Pullman wood/SUF coaches and combines (think Ambroid K-7 kits), for which they're correct.

I was also installing simple lighting, largely so my cars will show up as occupancies to my signal system.

25-Sep-2018: This lighting scheme is quick and dirty; I'm doing it mostly for my signals. When I want flicker-free lights, there are cheap & effective solutions that also work on DC. For example: https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/22380

The Evan Designs parts I used are $3 each. I'd be happy to pay twice that for Geoff Bunza's design. At any rate, here's what I started with:



Evan Designs makes a bunch of pre-built LED/current limiter/rectifier products. I've also used his surface-mount warm white LEDs, but these 3MM LEDs throw a lot more light.

For my caboose markers, I drilled holes in the floor and installed wipers:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/t...TOPIC_ID=48239

But that increased rolling resistance and its wipers would wear out if they orbited the layout too much. So I decided to rely on the trucks and their mounting screw to get power through the floor:



1/2" 2-56 was just right for this version of the BCW kit. Older floor moldings were thinner and 3/8" gave enough room for the nut.

NOTE: Investigate cars with steel weights between the frame and the interior floor. It definitely won't work on Branchline/Atlas Pullmans and coaches.



 I have collections of nice springs somewher, but an ugly spring will maintain contact between the truck and the mounting screw just as well. This is .010 phosphor bronze wire on a 'failed screw' I found in a box years ago. I used 3 turns of this under the head of each mounting screw. The spring diameter should be larger than the mounting screw, smaller than it's head. Use a screw one size larger than the mounting screw for a nicer wind.



Then I cut a copy paper diffuser and masking-taped it in place. All done. The spring and mounting screw idea may be useful to those with interiors, or who want fancier LED arrangements or diffusers.

[BandOGuy]

James,
I'm sure you're aware that Bethlehem Car Works Reading car kits was bought out by White Rose Hobbies in York, PA. I needed parts (trucks) for one of the old, preassembled coach kits and dealt with Bryan (Brian?) at White Rose to get the replacements I needed. He was very responsive and seems to be the BCW guru at White Rose. Also, a very knowledgeable Reading modeler.
Hope this helps

[jbvb]

Yes, I met the White Rose people at the 2025 Amherst show at the Big E.  As a Flying Yankee Assoc. member, I've also been involved with the 3D printed HO model that White Rose is taking orders for.

[ACL1504]

James,

Great looking passenger cars. I'll have to remember the defused light trick.

Tom

[Philip]

Nice work!

[jbvb]

Thanks, Tom & Philip