The Curmudgeon (Mike) and the Punk (Dustin) Build the SWSM Deer Creek Mine

Started by Mike Engler, March 03, 2015, 03:39:20 PM

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Mike Engler

I'm plodding away and I'm finishing up the ore bin. One tool I use whenever I can is 3M 465 transfer adhesive. Perfect for adhering the boards to the paper side wall templates. Again, I make a copy of the original template in case I screw it up. Using the tape instead of glue is quicker, neater, and of course makes warping not a factor.

A few months ago Brett put me on to Jax Pewter Black as a replacement for the A-West Blacken-it I had used for many years. I think the Jax adheres even better to the white metal castings, and I also find that it does a great job on brass wire. Shown are most of the castings after a minute soak in the Jax, then rinsed, but before buffing with Q-tips, felt wheel (from Dremel- hand held on the little pieces), etc. Some will also get chalk and/or acrylic paint. Brett's castings get better and better, which I thought impossible. This is one great kit- I'm anxious to use some of the other jigs and templates included.






THE Runner- Mike Engler in Lakeville, MN
mike.engler59@gmail.com

Mike Engler

The last three pics are of the bin with all but a few details to be added. Some clean-up is needed, and I need to figure out some more or different on the gates. Animated (working) gates are probably not going to make an appearance. At least I'm thinking about it- kind of like I always think I'm going to add lighting to my structures and dioramas. Like my logging models, this was from an era that pre-dated electricity.








THE Runner- Mike Engler in Lakeville, MN
mike.engler59@gmail.com

UP Fan

WOW!  The detail on those ore chute doors is fantastic.  Great build.  I take my hat off to you.   :D

martin.ojaste


bparrish

Did you ever notice how many towns are named after their water towers ! ?

Mike Engler

Thanks Dustin, UP Fan, Marty, and Bob. I've started the tipple house and I'll try to make a few points not already covered. I find out that modeling "faded" barn red or boxcar red paint is even more difficult than "peeling" red paint. After researching Google images, a Dr. Ben chart, and some trial and error on the kitchen counter, any natural fading of most red shades becomes pink. Here are some examples:









After I painted all the siding boards Apple Barrel "Barn Red" 20577, I sanded lightly as Brett suggested one hour later. I only did half, and results aren't as good the longer past one hour you wait. Since my base color was the grey A/I stain, just the right amount of sanding left some of the A/I intact. Too much sanding and I had to reapply more A/I, or add some alcohol and gray chalk with a fine brush to the bare wood areas. I also used a scratch brush from Micro-Mark that works like a mechanical pencil, especially for board ends.


I've gone back and forth, and have had several discussions with Dustin on nail holes (nail heads). I've probably participated in two dozen threads over the years debating the subject. I believe from 100+ feet away you wouldn't see average size nail heads on most wooden buildings. I've put thousands of nail holes on models over the years, but no more on HO models. The biggest reason is: It's easier not to.


When sanding one or more painted boards I found it easier to NOT round the corners by placing them on a 1" X 2"- somehow it was easier to sand them flat and not the edges.












So after all that I have built one little wall (actually more than that but this post is already way too long). The result isn't great, but is something I can work with. These big close-up
photos are for my benefit, not yours. They not only humble the builder, they tell you where all the warts, fuzzies, blemishes, glue spots, and shiny spots are. Your cell phone camera is one of your most invaluable tools.


THE Runner- Mike Engler in Lakeville, MN
mike.engler59@gmail.com

S&S RR

Mike


This is some very nice work! It is really turning out great. Love the detail photographs.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

coors2u

Mike and I seem to be at a meeting place as far as our builds go. The Runner does some great work.Here are the stairwells complete. I liked them so much I built them twice. Mostly my fault.
Dustin

coors2u

Here are a few of the construction pics of the tipple house going together.

Once these were together its time to grain and stain!

I save all kinds of stuff, the tube came from the box my wife treadmill came in.
Dustin

coors2u

Dustin

coors2u

Here is where I took a hard left from everyone else. I chose not to use the red. I am going to build this kit alongside another kit. More info on that later. I will say both kits came from the same mind, just not manufactures. It will be a larger dio with two mine structures and both are going to be grayish wood. Due to the local of both. In my head it sounds good. Lets hope I can pull it off. So here is the tipple with wood going on.
Dustin

S&S RR

John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

coors2u

I wanted it to have the look that cheap paint was used and it is peeling already. Even though the age of the mine isn't that old. I may tone down the natural wood some. I want to get the roof on first though. Here is the tipple house all clamped up.
Dustin

coors2u

Here are a few shots of the tipple being lined up and the ore car rail at the top of the tipple.
Dustin

coors2u

Once the tipple house is on, it really starts to take shape. I [/size]really like this shot looking into the tipple house.
[/size]Also the stairs are all mounted.
Dustin

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