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Author Topic: SP RR  (Read 58177 times)

bparrish

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Re: SP RR
« Reply #45 on: March 07, 2016, 09:06:15 PM »
Wow ! ! ! !

Way too scientific for me !

thanx
Bob
I'm only paranoid because everyone is out to get me.

Erieman

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Re: SP RR
« Reply #46 on: March 07, 2016, 09:37:29 PM »
Steve,

Your benchwork is looking great. Really like the progress you are making. No grass growing under your feet. Keep up the wonderful job. Are you coming to the NMRA meet on Saturday? Or will you be in the garage working on the benchwork?

Frank / Erieman

sdrees

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Re: SP RR
« Reply #47 on: March 08, 2016, 11:41:25 AM »
Thanks Jim and Bob for stopping by.  I don't know what is scientific about it Bob.  You just need a plan.

There might be a slight chance that I will go to the meeting on Saturday.  I see what is said at lunch tomorrow Frank.  I think the sub roadbed in the yard and industrial area should be done next week.
Steve Drees
SP RR

tom.boyd.125

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Re: SP RR
« Reply #48 on: March 09, 2016, 04:03:45 AM »
Steve,
 Great progress photos on your railroad empire. Hope that you inspire many others to get going with theirs !  8)
Tom Boyd in NE Minnesota
tommytrains22@yahoo.com

GPdemayo

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Re: SP RR
« Reply #49 on: March 09, 2016, 08:21:37 AM »
Great progress Steve.....thanks for posting your progress.....I'll be looking in.  8)
Gregory P. DeMayo
General Construction Superintendent Emeritus
St. Louis & Denver Railroad
Longwood, FL

sdrees

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Re: SP RR
« Reply #50 on: March 09, 2016, 12:19:23 PM »
Thanks for your nice comments Gregory and Tom.  Now back to the garage for more railroading fun.
Steve Drees
SP RR

sdrees

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Re: SP RR
« Reply #51 on: March 10, 2016, 04:03:19 PM »
So I am getting ready to install the sub roadbed on the remainder of the layout.  I was thinking about using spline roadbed.  I like the idea of splines because of all the curves involved and by doing so you get the natural easement going into the curves.  But some say that the spline roadbed makes the installation of the tortious switch machines difficult.  My minimum radius is 24".  I was going to use 1/4" Masonite.

Otherwise, I could cut the roadbed out of 1/2" birch plywood.  I will not use the 1/2" sanded fir plywood from Home Depot anymore.  It is only 3 ply and is warped.  I was Ok in the yard and industrial area because it is screwed down with a lot of screws.

Are there any thoughts on this.

Thanks
Steve Drees
SP RR

jbvb

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Re: SP RR
« Reply #52 on: March 10, 2016, 05:14:28 PM »
I've never done spline roadbed, but all that I've seen in magazines and real life was more than an inch deep (top to bottom).  So I could imagine it's better for ground throws and pushrods from the front of the layout.  I know 1/8" masonite can be bent tighter than 24" radius.  Less sure about 1/4".  Used some for fascia once, but that layout had all straight edges, so I never tried bending it.
James

sdrees

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Re: SP RR
« Reply #53 on: March 10, 2016, 05:54:00 PM »
More progress to report.  I finished laying the sub roadbed for the industrial area.  I used a Bosch self leveling laser to level both the upper area and the lower area.  It is an easy tool to use.  Probably to scientific for Bob Parrish though.
Steve Drees
SP RR

bparrish

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Re: SP RR
« Reply #54 on: March 10, 2016, 06:38:58 PM »
That's a fact ....

I'm stuck with old school stuff like a level.

Oh... And stuff like put down a strip of flex trak and roll a Central Valley truck across it and see if it leeks going.  I need to wind my watch into the twentieth century. 

See ya
Bob
I'm only paranoid because everyone is out to get me.

deemery

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Re: SP RR
« Reply #55 on: March 10, 2016, 07:20:16 PM »
A cheap laser level is actually a very handy tool for the layout room.  So's an app for your cellphone that can measure vertical angles.


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

Donato

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Re: SP RR
« Reply #56 on: March 11, 2016, 12:33:23 AM »
That's a fact ....

I'm stuck with old school stuff like a level.

Oh... And stuff like put down a strip of flex trak and roll a Central Valley truck across it and see if it leeks going.  I need to wind my watch into the twentieth century. 

See ya
Bob


Is this what you use Bob??


Thanks,
Donato

Biding my time till I can start my layout and build nice stuff like all you folks .... (said with envy). :-)

bparrish

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Re: SP RR
« Reply #57 on: March 11, 2016, 08:39:25 PM »
Actually that is a pretty accurate method. 

In my earlier life when I was doing engine swaps, we would put a glass of water on the engine intake manifold and level the three engine mounts.  This was necessary because float chambers in carburetters were unforgiving about this stuff. 

See ya
Bob
I'm only paranoid because everyone is out to get me.

sdrees

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Re: SP RR
« Reply #58 on: March 24, 2016, 10:58:43 PM »
I have been working on the helix recently.  I used a large piece of construction paper and drew a template on it so that when I cut out the sub roadbed pieces I could check for the proper radius when they are attached together.  I used a router to make lap joints to attach the sub roadbed pieces together with glue.

I attached the buss wires to the underside of the sub roadbed.

Then I calculated what the riser heights should be at eight points and screwed them to the plywood base you see.

I installed the sub roadbed on the risers for the first turn and will lay the track before I continue with the remainder of the helix.

 
« Last Edit: March 24, 2016, 11:21:55 PM by sdrees »
Steve Drees
SP RR

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Re: SP RR
« Reply #59 on: March 25, 2016, 08:57:40 AM »
Steve,

You are moving right along. It all looks great. Thanks for all the photosl.

I've used the water level method several times. Mostly on setting footers when I built the train room. Of course a clear hose is necessary but really comes in handy when the ground ins't level. It is also very helpful when you want a level over 8 feet long.

Tom ;D
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