Brass driver repair and re-quartering.

[ACL1504]

Bob Parrish is doing a thread on a "sorta scratch build" of an old loco.

http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=1829.0

In his thread he mentioned re-quartering a driver and that he used a NWSL quartering jig to do the job.

I've had the same problem on a few of my brass locos so I thought I'd go into a little more detail and show the process.

In the photo below you can see that I've used the NMRA gauge on the driver. It is out of gauge as shown. The wheels are to close together.



I'll use the NWSL wheel/gear puller to remove the offending wheel.



Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

I placed the wheel in the puller. I then screwed the pusher down to the center of the driver and let the tip rest on the axle.




Actually, I'm pushing the axle out of the wheel instead of pulling it.

Next, insert the Allen Wrench into the end of the screw and slowly twist in a clockwise move. The wheel will "pop" loose. When this occurs, push the axle out of the driver/wheel.



Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

Now the wheel is off the axle.



You now want to put the wheel back on the axle. Yes, you just took it off so put it back, Okay?


Just hand press it on for now.



Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

Next use your NMRA gauge to correctly gauge the drivers.



Here is the NWSL quartering jig. I'll show you how to use this tomorrow.

[sdrees]

Tom,

This is really neat stuff you are showing us. I am going to have to work on my old PFM locomotives one of these days when I get some track for them to run on.

Thanks   

[ak-milw]

I ve got the track, except I will have to sell my car so I can have the money to buy one.

[ACL1504]

Tom,

This is really neat stuff you are showing us. I am going to have to work on my old PFM locomotives one of these days when I get some track for them to run on.

Thanks

Steve,

Thanks, much appreciated. In all my years, I've found the PFM locos to be the absolute best in not having to make repairs to anything. That is unless a loco has been abused by the owner.

In fact the driver I've been showing is from a PFM Western Pacific loco. It's the only driver I've ever had to repair on a PFM and I got the loco off Ebay some 20 years ago.

Tom

[ACL1504]

I ve got the track, except I will have to sell my car so I can have the money to buy one.

Andy,

  Keep the track and the car. It will serve you better. Thanks for checking in.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Take the driver and place it in the NWSL quartering jig in the position as shown below. Just test the fit for now.



Remove the driver. The NWSL quartering jig comes with two main crankpins. These are the two pins and are threaded on both ends. The threads are pretty much standard so test one and then the other. One will fit. I've never had one that didn't fit one of the two threaded ends.

Refer to the photo below for a reference. These crankpins are critical in getting the correct quartering on the driver.



Just a little info on the crankpin. The crankpin is on the main driving wheel where the main side rod is conected. the eccentric crank is attached to the outside of the main crankpin.

Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

Now replace the driver into the quartering jig. The axle fits down into the two black cradles of the jig. Referring back the photo below, take the small round plugs and place them in the holes on the inside. They allow a little space between the driver and the side bars.




Push the two outside bars/pieces up against the driver. Tighten the nylon screws down on the axle. The nylon screws simply hold the axle tight and do not prevent it from rotating.




Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

Turn the driver so one of the main pins rests against the angle of the right side as shown above.

Turn the assembly around so you can see the other wheel. If the driver is in quarter, the pin in this driver wheel will also be up against the right side.



You can see that the pin in my driver is in the center and therefore out of quarter.

Pick up the assembly so that you can hold the driver wheel flanges with your thumbs and forefingers. Slowly rotate the wheels so both pins are up against the angle on opposite sides as shown below.



The driver is now in quarter.

NOTE:  Prior to removing the driver from the jig, make sure the wheels are still in gauge.



Carefully remove the driver from the jig. As a precaution, I place a little drop of super glue on the outside of the wheel where it fits on the axle. This will hold the axle and wheel in place. I don't put any glue on the inside as I don't want it interfering with the bushing on the axle.

Install the newly quartered driver back into the locomotive frame.



Now that wasn't hard was it? I hope this gives everyone an idea of what to do\and how its done when we refer to quartering a driver.

Tom

[bparrish]

Tom...

Thanx for  backing me up on some of this steam stuff.  I must say however that with the off the shelf quality of some Diesel products....... there is a reason why some modelers never even consider steam. 

I use Proto 2000 SW somethings for the power in my trolley box motors.  They have amazing low speed operation with out tinkering with them.  I put Labelle shells over the top.  Photo below.

There are some great older brass locos out there on ebay and such (especially if they have no box) that can be made to run really well with a little modifications.  A can motor, re-quartering and a DCC decoder and most locos can handle any sort of operations that we throw at them.   A few might need a gear case but even at that they can be modified for less than some current production steam offerings. 

I probably shouldn't say this as it will only increase the competition on the auctions. 

It is important to note that a modeler does not need to be a machinist to run old steam.

Thanx again for putting this up.

see ya
Bob

[ACL1504]

Tom...

Thanx for  backing me up on some of this steam stuff.  I must say however that with the off the shelf quality of some Diesel products....... there is a reason why some modelers never even consider steam. 

I use Proto 2000 SW somethings for the power in my trolley box motors.  They have amazing low speed operation with out tinkering with them.  I put Labelle shells over the top.  Photo below.

There are some great older brass locos out there on ebay and such (especially if they have no box) that can be made to run really well with a little modifications.  A can motor, re-quartering and a DCC decoder and most locos can handle any sort of operations that we throw at them.   A few might need a gear case but even at that they can be modified for less than some current production steam offerings. 

I probably shouldn't say this as it will only increase the competition on the auctions. 

It is important to note that a modeler does not need to be a machinist to run old steam.

Thanx again for putting this up.

see ya
Bob

Bob,

You are very welcome. I guessed that many or a great majority of the members here haven't seen it or understood the process. For you and me and for sure Bob Leonard (RWL), have all quartered a driver of any kind.

Anyway, I thought it would be informative. 

I believe there are many of us that have machinists instincts in us. For me though it was a learning process over the past 40 years of playing and working with brass.

In the late 60's to late 70's Diesels were Atheran rubber band drive and unpainted Stewart diesel shells. STEAM WAS KING then. Now, even the Judge runs diesels 98% of the time on the layout.

I can't tell you how many fantastic brass deals I let go on Ebay. At this Winter of my life I figured I have plenty of brass to keep me busy.

Thanks for starting the process on the thread.

Tom

[ReadingBob]

Hi Tom and Bob,

I've been following along and I've found this to be a very interesting and informative thread even though it's something that I'll probably never, ever do.     Thanks for sharing!

[jimmillho]

Hi Tom and Bob,

I've been following along and I've found this to be a very interesting and informative thread even though it's something that I'll probably never, ever do.     Thanks for sharing!

I always thought that too---------then I re geared a Shay

Jim