Diorama modeling question

[chris.mincemoyer.3]

As I work on completing structures till I have the space and time to build a layout, I would like to work on some dioramas.   Thinking of using both foam and/or gatorfoam for the bases of the dioramas.  When using gatorfoam and changes in elevation not really needed do you recommend just painting the gatorfoam and applying "dirt" in that manner or use a base of Sculptamold?

Chris

[coors2u]

I apply dirt right to the foam after a thin layer of paint. It seem to work out the best for me. I haven't had a shrink or warp as of yet.

[EricQuebec]

Personnaly, I cover always  the foam with a thin layer of dry wall compound
Eric Quebec.

[rpdylan]

I paint the foam an earth color, after that anything goes for me: dirt on the foam, sculptamold, plaster/ compound.....

Bob C

[sdrees]

Chris,

I always use 1/2" Gatorboard with a layer of 1" pink insulation board glued to the Gatorboard or maybe thicker insulation depending what I am going to do with it.  Then like some others said, I paint the insulation and then add real dirt that has been sifted thru a nylon stocking.  The sandwich of insulation and the gatorboard make a very stable base for your diorama instead of plywood which will probably warp on you.

[postalkarl]

Hi:

I use 1/2" Cabinet grade plywood. It never warps on me. Atleast it hasn't yet. My current project FSM Road Side Deligths is on a plywood base.

Karl

[jbvb]

A friend of mine started a project using Gatorboard and reported he started feeling sick in his layout room.  I looked up the MSDS and found it outgasses formaldehyde.  He got diagnosed with formaldehyde sensitivity.  It isn't that common, but if you have it, stay away from the stuff.

[Slim Jerkins]

I've used pink/blue insulation with sculptamould and Gatorboard with sculptamold.


Last one I did I made up with Gatorboard. I needed the bottom to be an open box for some wiring and a speaker.


-slim

[DaveInTheHat]

I tried using gator board once. When I glued dirt and grass to it it warped really bad. Since then I've been using 1/2" MDF and gluing 1" pink foam insulation to it. I glue it with Titebond glue and run a couple 1 1/4" drywall screws through it to hold it tight while the glue drys. Any elevations can be built up on top of the first layer of foam. I make about 6 or 8 up at a time. In the past 15 or so years I haven't had any problems with any of my dioramas warping or coming apart.

[postalkarl]

Hi All:

I'm using some new stuff I found as they were out of plywood the other day. It's also cheaper. Tried this 3/4 inch thick shelving material (its for shelving and I think building furniture). It is really great, it's very straight and does not warp. I think I still have the label and will let you guys know what it is if I can.

Karl

[KCS Trains]

I prefer a high quality 3/4" plywood.  It looks good and there is no way you are going to get any warping.  Phil

[bparrish]

Gents...

I was a part in building a new trolley module with two sections that gave us a four by five configuration.  It's not the first one that we built.  We wanted to stay away from anything plaster as it is too brittle for travel.  We used seven ply half inch cabinet grade ply wood.  It is real stable and isn't too heavy.  I direct glued all of the scenicing stuff, dirt, grass and rocks directly to the board with no sealer.

One half of the module is a raised grade and we cut and ramped the plywood.  To fill the space I sprayed that crazy foam stuff.  The only down side is that it is international orange so it was a bit hard to cover.  It glazes over to a smooth skin but by the time I shaved it off to shape it there was an open cell texture that really takes the glue.

The railroad has taken several moves now and has needed no touch ups.

see ya
Bob

[rpdylan]

Tried something out recently....had a piece of 1/2 inch "zip-wall" sheathing laying around- its basically a chipboard material with a coating on it made for outside sheathing. the stuff is pretty stable and lays really flat. I painted the coated side with earth colored paint and used it for a diorama base. after all the scenery done its still laying totally flat (4 months). I had the piece in my garage for about 2 years and looked the same as when I bought it. its under $14 for a 4x8 sheet at my Home Depot. Think I will use it again....

bob c

[deemery]

Tried something out recently....had a piece of 1/2 inch "zip-wall" sheathing laying around- its basically a chipboard material with a coating on it made for outside sheathing. the stuff is pretty stable and lays really flat. I painted the coated side with earth colored paint and used it for a diorama base. after all the scenery done its still laying totally flat (4 months). I had the piece in my garage for about 2 years and looked the same as when I bought it. its under $14 for a 4x8 sheet at my Home Depot. Think I will use it again....

bob c

Can you post a photo of what that stuff looks like (before you added the dirt? ;-)


thanks    dave

[rpdylan]

Its this stuff... I used it when I built my shed and had some pieces left over. I used it with the coated side "up"- painted the green face with earth colored paint.