Ogden & Cache Valley RR

Started by Onewolf, April 04, 2016, 03:39:49 PM

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ACL1504

Doug,

You work continues top amaze me. It is really coming along beautifully. I love the staging yard.

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

Onewolf

#196
Quote from: tct855 on February 10, 2018, 09:58:39 AM
One wolf,

   Question:  Since you've started this railroad project.  What have you learned?  Anything you wish you didn't do or wish you did do?  Any follower advice?  Thanx Thom...

Just two items off the top of my head:

#1) Should have been obvious, but....  When installing track, you should test it with your biggest heaviest longest most rigid steam engine.  It will highlight issues that aren't readily apparent when testing with 4/6 axle diesels.

#2) If you are using the very springy/flexible Atlas code 83/100 flex track DO NOT EVER DOUBLE GAP on a curve.

PRR Modeler

The true scope of your layout is truly amazing and everything is top notch.
Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

S&S RR

Amazing work and amazing layout - I'm really enjoying following along.

John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

Onewolf

Status update....

I am redoing/replacing the double track mainline that circles behind the (future) turntable/roundhouse area. There were issues with the levelness of the Homasote subroadbed and the double gapped curved track was causing problems so I decided for a complete redo of that area. The new track-work is much better/smoother/reliable.  Redoing existing track-work is somewhat annoying but the end results are worth it.  I learned quite a bit as I went along and my track-work improved considerably relative to the first parts of track I installed.





Still trying to figure out a formula/process for weathering the track.  I have about 1200 ft of visible track to weather so I want to figure out a reasonably efficient/repeatable process that doesn't involve me dying in a cloud of spray paint fumes.



The current test process I'm trying is to spray with the original (too reddish) brown from a low angle on the side (rust on sides of track)....



And then come back with Rustoleum Camo Ultra Flat 'Earth Brown' from directly above to color the ties dark brown while leaving some reddish brown on the sides of the track.


ACL1504

#200
Doug,

Better to find and fix issues early rather than later in the construction. It annoys me to no end to have and go back to fix something; however, as you said, the results are well worth the effort.

I like the track color in the first photo. It looks dark just prior to the rust taking over. Just my humble opinion my friend.

Great work going on in Sanford.

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

PRR Modeler

I agree with Tom about the first color.
Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

Onewolf

Quote from: ACL1504 on February 19, 2018, 02:31:43 PM
Doug,

Better to find and fix issues early rather than later in the construction. It annoys me to no end to have and go back to fix something; however, as you said, the results are well worth the effort.

I like the track color in the first photo. It looks dark just prior to the rust taking over. Just my humble opinion my friend.

Great work gong on in Sanford.

Tom ;D


Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 19, 2018, 06:04:58 PM
I agree with Tom about the first color.

I also agree that the track with just Rustoleum Camo 'Earth Brown' looks fine and is much easier to produce.  I can add some 'rust' on secondary tracks at a later point using a marker, or brush.

Thanks for the feedback.

jbvb

It continues to look good.  And not to teach anyone's grandmother to suck eggs, but when working with flextrack, I keep some brad nails handy.  If I need to gap on a curve, I drive brads on the outside of the rail on either side of the gap to hold it in gauge.  On the inner rail, I need to drive them far enough below the railhead to clear flanges, but not past the base of the rail.  For track directly on Homasote, 3/8" will do, with cork or other soft roadbed 3/4" may be needed for holding power.
James

Onewolf

I finished weathering/spraying/cleaning all 1200 ft of visible track and then I installed the Walthers 130 ft (scale) turntable in the locomotive service terminal.   
After I got the turntable installed/working I started working on the 12 stall roundhouse (base 3 stall kit + 3 three stall addition kits). 

Now I'm working on installing the 17 service tracks around the turntable (4 garden tracks, 12 roundhouse stalls, machine shop track).  Each service track will have a manual power switch to be able to disable (sound) locomotives.





The cardboard cutouts are being used to locate additional buildings in the loco service terminal








Lynnb

That roundhouse is amazing.
Ontario, Canada
The Great White North

My Layout Venture-> https://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=6003.0

jimmillho

Great looking Roundhouse and I like the track layout in that area.

Jim

Janbouli

I love photo's, don't we all.

Zephyrus52246

That will be one impressive scene when it's finished.  It's pretty darn impressive now.   :)


Jeff

postalkarl

Hey Onewolf:

Very nicely done so far. Roundhouse looks great. It's gonna be a great locomotive Maintenance & storage area.

Karl

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