SierraWest O'Neills Fabrication

Started by SteveCuster, June 28, 2016, 11:33:47 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Janbouli

The shingles are more then great , in the Netherlands we would call this Monnikkenwerk, Munks work, you must be a very patient man .
I love photo's, don't we all.

Zephyrus52246

The staircase and the shingles look great.  I don't think I'd have the patience to do the individual shingles.   :)


Jeff

GPdemayo


Steve.....great work on your build.  8) 
 
I did an O scale build for Capt. Mike's Porcupine Valley RR a while back on the other forum and had a bit of info about the cedar shingles I did for that roof. I did a bit of show and tell about the ridge shingles and thought it might help with your planning for capping the ridges. If you have any questions, feel free to call - 407-834-2183.
 
The link for the build is below and the shingles for the structure run from pg. 3 to 8, with the ridge shingle installation on pg. 7 & 8.

http://www.kitforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=7926
Gregory P. DeMayo
General Construction Superintendent Emeritus
St. Louis & Denver Railroad
Longwood, FL

postalkarl

Hi Steve:

Looks great. How you gonna finaish the roof peak. Cap shingles wound be cool.

Karl

SteveCuster

Thanks everyone. The shingles weren't as tedious as you would think, I think I've spent nearly as much time straightening out old Campbell's rolled shingles as I did laying out this whole roof.

Gregory - I like what you did with your build, it's basically what I had in mind for a cedar ridge cap.

Karl - I'm thinking of doing a cedar ridge cap like Gregory had done on his O scale kit. The real challenge is the 4 sided tower roof. I've seen them capped in copper but it may look bad on a model, I'll have to do some experimentation. I'm trying to stick with what would be prototypical for my time period (1930s-1940s).

-Steve
Steve Custer

martin.ojaste

Steve, I told you its fun to do real cedar shakes. They look realllly good.


A couple suggestions for next time.


- Put a thin starter row of shake material at the eves. It will reduce the hanging effects the first riw if shajes gets.


- for the ridge, you will need to add a row of half shakes before you do the ridge cap. Otherwise the ridge cap looks too wide or disjointed.


- for the ridge cap, make it consustent with the feel and look of the rest of the buikdings. Avoid copper and lean tiward lead (more common) or boards.


Keep up the great work.


Marty

SteveCuster

Thanks Marty. I like the lead idea but I don't know if the contrast will look bad. I have to review some prototype pictures. I'm still experimenting with this type of roof.

-Steve
Steve Custer

GPdemayo


Steve,

Which ever way you go with the ridge, in real life it must cover the last course of shingles sufficiently to keep water from getting under the course at the ridge.


This varies with the material used, but a metal cap should extend at least 8" to 10" down from the ridge. For wood shingles, that distance is at least 10".
Gregory P. DeMayo
General Construction Superintendent Emeritus
St. Louis & Denver Railroad
Longwood, FL

S&S RR

Steve


I just got caught up with your thread.  Great work!  Love the shingles. You have inspired me to try individual shingles on one of my next few builds. Thanks for sharing this with us.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

SteveCuster

I had uploaded some new pictures but they got deleted with the forum crash. Here goes again..

Thanks John, Greg and Mario!

I got most of the tower shingled this weekend, I took a break to add the other staircase and awnings.


For this roof I got a little smarter and cut all my shingles into this bottle cap. When I was doing the welding shop roof I just made a big pile of them on my workbench. I tend to breath heavy when I'm concentrating and I ended up blowing them all over the place.

Before I got started I made a copy of the roof card, I used it as a guide to cut the edge pieces. In the past I've used scissors to trim strip shingles but that wouldn't work for the individual shingles.

Moving along with the shingles.

The hardest part so far was the very top, I kept disturbing the shingles I had already done when adding new shingles.

I got the edges glued up before I did the ridges. The roof card comes with a square cardstock piece that goes under the roof to keep the corners square, another great SW design. Simple but very effective. I've fought to keep these types of roofs true in other kits I've built.

I glued a scale 4x4 in the ridge gap to give myself a better surface to glue to ridge cap shingles on.

I finished the side staircase/awning in between shingling. These little details really make structures like this interesting, I'm a huge fan of porches and staircases.

Thanks for checking in. Next on the menu is finishing up the shingles and adding some color to them. I'm doing some color experiments tonight.

-Steve


Steve Custer

martin.ojaste

Steve, you are a braver man than I. I would have glued the roof together first and then shingled it. It's much more complicated and a bigger challenge than what you did.  Good work.

S&S RR

John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

GPdemayo

Gregory P. DeMayo
General Construction Superintendent Emeritus
St. Louis & Denver Railroad
Longwood, FL

donatode

Quote from: GPdemayo on August 18, 2016, 08:59:29 AM
The hips look great Steve.  8) 8) 8)


Well it depends on whose hips they are!!!  ;D

SteveCuster

Thanks everyone. I finished the roof tonight, I'll be weathering and coloring it tomorrow hopefully.

-Steve
Steve Custer

Powered by EzPortal