Petite Properties

[madharry]

Thank you so much Jan and Darryl, the kits are "b...... m........." and I am enjoying the challenge of adding the exterior surfaces to the MDF.

Mike

[madharry]

Continuing.............

Here is the finished Washtub Cottage. I covered the chimneys in Redutex coarse stone film, the roof has Campbell's shingles and the walls have been finished to look like Cotswold stone.

Mike

[madharry]

Now for the big one!

Apart from the church which my wife thinks takes up too much real estate and prevents me from buying, the biggest (most difficult) kit in the whole collection is the pub - "the Blacksmith's Arms"

Here is the packet cover, the MDF walls, 2-pages of instructions and the rest of the kit.

I am going to attempt a thatched roof on this model - a first for me. Fingers crossed.

Mike

[madharry]

Continuing...

The MDF walls are glued together using PVA. Care is taken to get the walls and floor the correct way around. Note you can on these buildings reverse the walls easily to create a different look, so two identical kits do not have to look the same. By flipping the floor and reversing the wall, the doors and windows can be on left of the building instead of the right etc.

After the walls are glued together, next up are the chimneys. These are usually in two parts which are glued together to make a 4mm thick chimney breast. However they will also be glued to the walls resulting in a 6mm thick chimney.

Mike

[ReadingBob]

In Mike's language,  "Bloody Marvelous!"

Perfectly stated!  Those are the words I was looking for.   

[ACL1504]

Mike,

Great job on the build. Or as you say, "Bloody Marvelous"!


I enjoy following your builds.

Tom

[madharry]

Thank you very much Bob and Tom!

Continuing................

The walls were primed white with a Halfords primer spray paint.

Meanwhile the chimney breasts have been glued together. The pub's doors were "painted" maroon with a Letraset felt tip pen.

The exterior wooden beams are being "painted" with a black felt tip pen. Care is taken to ensure I paint the correct side.

Mike

[Rail and Tie]

Thatched roof, a first here on the forum I believe.  Here is an idea I saw on how to achieve that. And a good use of those old beach towels.

http://muraminiatures.com/aking-a-28mm-scale-thatched-roof.html

Hope this might help and the advice is as good as the amount you paid for it... and you did not even ask for the advice in the first place!

[Janbouli]

I like how this one looks , a lot of work but a good tutorial http://thatchcottage.blogspot.nl/2012/12/miniature-thatch-roof-tutorial.html

[madharry]

Thanks Darryl and Jan for the info...........it looks like there are several ways to crack an egg!

Mike 

[Rail and Tie]

Of course, I have never tried this technique, but can't wait to see what you come up with.

[madharry]

Hi Darryl,

I am really nervous when it comes to trying new techniques. I have wanted to try thatching but have always chickened out. At a recent railway show I attended with "Red Hook Bay" I met a great modeller - Brian Bason. His buildings have been the subject of no less than 86 features over the years in the British Railway Modelling magazine. He uses plumber's hemp for his thatch. He had a display of his buildings which were just wonderful!

HOWEVER - I bought a book by the creator of Petite Properties entitled "Create Exterior Finishes" who advocates using air dry clay (DAS) and static grass. So I am going to give it a try.

Mike

[madharry]

Continuing..................

After the outside framing was painted black I glued the windows to the back of the parts. I was careful to trim the acetate exactly to fit and make sure the matt side was to the front.

Afterwards the framing was glued to the building and the doors glued from inside.

Mike

[madharry]

Continuing.............

Before we get to the thatching I want to try another new technique for me anyway.

I have attached the two chimneys and want to try replicating knapped flint. I am going to use some tape to mask either side of the chimneys.
Then paint the chimneys with PVA before sprinkling on some N-scale ballast. Then I am going to add some fine sand to the chimneys before the PVA has a chance to dry to create a mortar effect. I have bought some fine quarzsand # 7522 by Busch.

Mike

[madharry]

Continuing...

So I have applied the ballast and sand. Now we need to wait until it is dry...............

Mike