Seabiscuits Boatworks COMING SOON in HO Scale!

[Janbouli]

Amazing detail Darryl, I want one in H0 then I can do another duo build in N and H0.

[deemery]

i hope those details will be available separately, they would be great for my roundhouse (when i can get back to modeling...)


dave

[Rail and Tie]

Thanks Jan, the details are lots of fun. Really should be sprayed instead of hand painted as it can cover a lot of the detail. I will let you know as soon as it is out.

Dave, definitely will be kitting these details up separately as well.

Continuing along...

I had Tim at Ngineering work up a combination light and effects board for this kit. It will include a flickering light for the pot belly stove and a puffer light for a cigar/pipe smoker on the dock.  The board also will power the rest of the lights for the interior / exterior.  Ngineering has a lot of great lighting effects and now has added sound effects. Something that has long time been needed in the industry.

Drilling some holes to feed LED wires.




Flicker light installed in the stove.




Though we won't be including the figure, here is how to modify one to hold a light.  Drilled a hole from his mouth through the back of his head. Then cut a groove down the back and the inside of one leg. This is easy to route the wired orange LED down and then coating with glue.






The Nano LED is a little large for scale, but I think it will look good just the same as a pipe.

[Rail and Tie]

Carrying on with the lean to shed and outside storage cage.

Bit of light sanding, staining and gluing the shed supports and precut roof timbers.




A chain link cage from some 0.015 styrene bent and glued to shape. Painted Tull and glued to the styrene frame.






Then added some boxes and barrels. The boxes are cut and folded out of paper with printed graphics.

[Rail and Tie]

This next part is optional, but I thought I would try the technique as I have always wanted to do it. 

I chose to do some corrugated roofing over the shed and wanted it to look derelict even though it may not properly match the better looked after building. As I said, this is an exercise in testing some new techniques.

To age and rust out the metal roofing, I obtained some Ferric Oxide used for etching copper circuit boards. It is powerful stuff so work in a well ventilated area, use gloves, and eye protection and generally be really careful with this stuff. If you leave the aluminum in too long it will just vaporize in a puff of orange smoke.

Cut the roofing strips into panel sizes. I dip it in the solution and wait for it to fizz and start to bubble. Then remove and plunge into water to stop the process.






Painted with some rust pigments and Vallejo Rust Effects. Overall works fairly well, though not entirely happy with the colors. After painting each panel, I glued them to the rafters and added a strip of adhesive foil tape along the top edge.




A great tutorial on aging metal roofing can be found here. Luke has some really great videos on his site:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d371ubNKwto

[Rail and Tie]

"I APPROVE OF THIS BUILD!"

Our customer complaint department manager and Quality Director Peanut approves of this model stuff, though his constant need for meetings and pets slows the process significantly.

[bparrish]

Darryl........

Maybe I'm the last on the planet to figure this out but.....

In one photo on a previous page I can see only part of a paint bottle that looks like a Vallejo jar.

It says streaking grime.

Tell me (maybe us) what this stuff is.

Maybe I'm just the father of the groom here and have no idea what is going on.

Oh....... and by the way... a very cool structure.

thanx
Bob

[Rail and Tie]

Hi Bob,

Vallejo has are really great line of weathering paints and washes in a variety of colors. I recently got into these but am still experimenting with them. I really like them along with a product line of paints called MIG.

The Streaking grime is one of these selections that is meant to be dabbed on a model and then with a clean soft brush wipe down in the direction that water would flow. it gives the very convincing appearance of grime that has been washing down the side of a structure of vehicle. There are several different tones. You can get these from a lot of plastic model hobby stores or online. As an example:
http://www.hobbylinc.com/cgi-bin/s8.cgi?str_s=vallejo+weathering

This page gives some idea as to what they have. Scroll down to the bottom of the page for appropriate stuff for us model railroaders.
http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/weathering-effects/family/34

They have a number of these different effects and washes. I also bought the fuel and oil stain ones as well. the sheen on them when dry are very convincing. especially the fuel stain one that has that slightly oily, but dry appearance vs the oil stains which as much shinier.

[bparrish]

Darryl...

Thanx for the info.

I'll have to pursue this stuff.

thanx
Bob

[Rail and Tie]

Pilings:

I cut some 1/12" dowels to length for both the dock support and the doubling supports to length. Then I scraped them with a razor saw to deepen the grooves. Next, a couple of coats of IA wash to darken them up. Then a quick sanding to get rid of the fuzz. I then dry brushed on some light gray to hit the highlights. I used a layer of MIG Slimy Green Light and then on the lower part of the post used MIG slimy green Dark to simulate the algae an sea weed that tends to grow on everything at or below the water surface depending on the level of the tide









I then decided on which piles would be in the water and glued them onto the 12/12 beams at an equal spacing defined in the instructions. Actually I worked out what looked good and then set the spacing for the instructions.




Cross bracing takes a lot of concentration to get it right so that you can install all the crosses in each direction properly. Left over right, left over right, left over ....





The "Slimy Green" wash works very well so will go over the submerged planks afterwards to keep it all level to the water levels.

[Janbouli]

Great mini tutorial Darryl , the MIG washes seem to do the job very well . I have some Vallejo washes but no slimy green and such colors yet.

[Powersteamguy1790]

Very nicely done Darryl.

Stay cool and run steam.........

[Rail and Tie]

Built up some dock cleats out of some 3X10 wood. A small dab of craft adhesive on a pin did the job for the thru bolts/pins. Rust and AI to age. I think I over did it on the rust and should be able to town it down in the final clean up of the model.




Cleats/tiedowns in place on the dock decking. I was going to do up a railing set for wrapping around the dock as I did in the N Scale version, but I think I like how it looks without the safety of railings. This is after all an Evil Empire Build, not those Jedi Rebels...




I was going to do some LED soldering, but it seems that the soldering and microscope station had been taken over by one of our kit production workers.

[Slim Jerkins]

Thanks Jan, the details are lots of fun. Really should be sprayed instead of hand painted as it can cover a lot of the detail. I will let you know as soon as it is out.

Dave, definitely will be kitting these details up separately as well.

Continuing along...

I had Tim at Ngineering work up a combination light and effects board for this kit. It will include a flickering light for the pot belly stove and a puffer light for a cigar/pipe smoker on the dock.  The board also will power the rest of the lights for the interior / exterior. Ngineering has a lot of great lighting effects and now has added sound effects. Something that has long time been needed in the industry.

And if you don't want to pay list price -  go to go to www.microlumina.com or shoot me a PM/email if you don't see something listed on the site. Chances are I've got the Ngineering item in stock - including the sounds.


Darryl - I invested in a pair of surgical scopes from this place: https://www.designsforvision.com/ . The microscope wasn't working for me because I needed a pair of readers whenever I wasn't looking through the microscope. Using an optivisor over a pair of readers worked better but flipping the 'visor up and down got to be a pain too. I met a guy at a proto show who bought a pair for his modelling/weathering. Said it was one of the best things he ever bought. Not cheap though. Unfortunately, they're priced for people with MD or DDS after their names. I don't have either  .

Seabiscuits is really looking good!
-slim

[Rail and Tie]

Sorry Slim, I should have mentioned that you have all that stuff available too at very attractive prices with excellent personal support. Both you and Tim have been very helpful in supporting the best of the best in LED lighting products. This newest board was developed after a lot of back and forth with Tim and is very nice for having 2 effects and some constant lit LED's. Nice and small too.

I have tried a pair of surgical scopes a friend of mine has and find it does not have the depth of field that I want for working close up like this. I really find the microscope with or without glasses works well for me. Especially now that my eyesight has gotten to the point where bifocals required. I paid $299 for the scope and it has been a godsend when working on wiring LED's as well as other things that small. I have even started painting figures under it too.

the Stereo microscope does take some getting use to though. Kind of like going through the whole progressive bifocal thing.