Superior & Seattle Railroad Build (Volume 2) Started 2/25/17

Started by S&S RR, February 25, 2017, 10:03:31 PM

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S&S RR

So, today I got a couple hours in at the workbench.  The first inspection pit is fitted and glued in - the second is fitted but still needs to be glued in.  I decided to do the finish painting and weathering with the castings glued in place. With the roof still off I have easy access and will not have to do all the touchup painting from the installation process.


John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

bparrish

John...

I can't stand it any longer.......... you need to get this done so I can see what it looks like.

thanx
Bob
Did you ever notice how many towns are named after their water towers ! ?

rpdylan

Looking good! What a project! Are you going to make the roof removable or will it be glued down?
Bob C.

S&S RR

Quote from: bparrish on January 02, 2018, 03:38:02 AM
John...

I can't stand it any longer.......... you need to get this done so I can see what it looks like.

thanx
Bob


Bob


I know how you feel - we will see if the plan comes together.



John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

Quote from: rpdylan on January 02, 2018, 05:04:29 AM
Looking good! What a project! Are you going to make the roof removable or will it be glued down?


Bob


Yes - the roof is going to be removable. The shelf you see on the interior side of the front wall will be part of the lock that holds it in place.  The steel support beams will stay with the structure when the roof is removed. The interior detail will also be visible from the end.  The story behind this is the S&S RR had to extend the locomotive works to fit the new S4's - so the addition was done while maintaining operations. The scene will be as the construction crew is putting in the stone work for the back wall.


The loading dock in the back will be full of locomotive parts and the final construction supplies. It will be a busy - highly detailed - place.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

deemery

I played with small magnets to make the roof of my (CM) roundhouse removable.  The design is great, the problem I've had is getting a strong enough glue to hold the magnets in place.  Seems the magnetic pull is greater than the strength of my epoxy :-(


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

bparrish

Dave...

Try this for a magnet idea.  I know that there a lot of really strong ones out there.  Especially those that come out of computer drive stuff.

A much weaker but cool magnet are those that are used on Brio children's trains........  What a coincidence  ! ! ! !

The other solution for too strong of a magnet is to not let them touch.  They have enough "field" that they will get the job done.

see ya
Bob
Did you ever notice how many towns are named after their water towers ! ?

S&S RR

Quote from: deemery on January 02, 2018, 12:30:37 PM
I played with small magnets to make the roof of my (CM) roundhouse removable.  The design is great, the problem I've had is getting a strong enough glue to hold the magnets in place.  Seems the magnetic pull is greater than the strength of my epoxy :-(


dave


Dave


Thanks for the tip.  I have a series of interlocking beams that will keep it in place. I would like to have a way to keep it from raising up or warping with temperature and humidity changes. I was considering giving small pieces of velcro a try. Magnets would also work.  It sounds like I need to do some experimenting.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

Quote from: bparrish on January 02, 2018, 01:22:01 PM
Dave...

Try this for a magnet idea.  I know that there a lot of really strong ones out there.  Especially those that come out of computer drive stuff.

A much weaker but cool magnet are those that are used on Brio children's trains........  What a coincidence  ! ! ! !

The other solution for too strong of a magnet is to not let them touch.  They have enough "field" that they will get the job done.

see ya
Bob


Bob


You make some good points if I go for the magnet method. Stay tuned.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

deemery

I tried to provide some space when I "set" the magnets.  First I glued the magnets to the roof.  Then I added a couple pieces of paper (the "spacers") and attached the wall magnets to the roof.  I put the epoxy on the walls, then positioned the roof.  The -theory- was the wall magnets would be set at the appropriate spacing in that puddle of epoxy.  The -practice- has been those wall magnets have come unglued.  I think part of the problem is not enough gluing space on the wall to hold the wall magnets. 


When I dig this project out again (once I'm ready to tackle the engine terminal in the new layout), I'll have to take a look at the wall magnet attachment points.


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

S&S RR

Quote from: deemery on January 02, 2018, 04:55:09 PM
I tried to provide some space when I "set" the magnets.  First I glued the magnets to the roof.  Then I added a couple pieces of paper (the "spacers") and attached the wall magnets to the roof.  I put the epoxy on the walls, then positioned the roof.  The -theory- was the wall magnets would be set at the appropriate spacing in that puddle of epoxy.  The -practice- has been those wall magnets have come unglued.  I think part of the problem is not enough gluing space on the wall to hold the wall magnets. 


When I dig this project out again (once I'm ready to tackle the engine terminal in the new layout), I'll have to take a look at the wall magnet attachment points.




dave


Dave


Thanks for the clarification - I need to take a look at my options on this one.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

RWL

John,


Do you need to place a magnet in relation to a magnet to secure the two pieces, instead would not a magnet to metal work? You could attach thin metal shim stock to the top of a roof rafter or the top of a pilaster and a the magnet to the underside of the roof structure to secure it. The air gap between the two surfaces would determine the strength of the field and thus the magnetic attraction. Just a thought!


Bob

deemery

Certainly a small piece of steel would work on the 'other side' of a magnet.   The magnets are taller, which makes it a bit easier to glue them, I think. 

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

S&S RR

Quote from: RWL on January 03, 2018, 09:01:18 AM
John,


Do you need to place a magnet in relation to a magnet to secure the two pieces, instead would not a magnet to metal work? You could attach thin metal shim stock to the top of a roof rafter or the top of a pilaster and a the magnet to the underside of the roof structure to secure it. The air gap between the two surfaces would determine the strength of the field and thus the magnetic attraction. Just a thought!


Bob


Bob


Great minds think alike.  My plan is to use strips of thin sheet steel on top of the beams with a matching strip on the roof card.  I have a magnetizer on my workbench that will turn any piece of iron or steel into a magnet. I will give this a try and report back.  I think I could make velcro work to but this way sounds like a better solution.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

S&S RR

Quote from: deemery on January 03, 2018, 10:22:50 AM
Certainly a small piece of steel would work on the 'other side' of a magnet.   The magnets are taller, which makes it a bit easier to glue them, I think. 

dave


Dave


I think we can solve the surface area issue with gluing the magnets with thin sheet steel, per post above.  As always, I will post pictures when I work out the bugs in this idea. Thanks again for the tip/idea and the discussion.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

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