The M-K & Eastern RR, a layout made of dioramas, sort of....

Started by Graffen, May 18, 2017, 10:30:07 AM

Previous topic - Next topic


I built a curved turnout today.
HOn3 with Code 70 rails. 28" and 22" radiuses.
What's left to do is to make the cuts for the live frog and to clean the flangeways from solder.I build my turnouts to the narrow specs that Railway engineering promotes. I use their roller gauges and to check with the NMRA gauge, you use the flange end instead of the track end.


That turnout is super cool.
My favorite thing for cleaning up the solder is a piece of hack saw blade about 25mm in length broken out of an older used blade.  Near the ends never much get used so they are still pretty usable.  Also. select one that does not have a lot of side to side pressed in kerf.  That way it does not widen into your rails; only removing the solder.
Did you ever notice how many towns are named after their water towers ! ?


A more expensive solution is a set of fret or nut files, like this one  If you know the width you need (I'm too lazy to look up the relevant NMRA standard :-) ), you might be able to find the specific file that comes closest.

Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to


Yes, I use a sawn off saw blade. The nut files look great, even if a tad expensive...

Built a # 6 left-hand turnout in HOn3 with 26" radius.

They are starting to go together easy now. This one took not more than an hour to make.

I use a drawn template to get the radius right. Otherwise it's just a matter of using the NMRA gauge and Railway Engineering roller gauges.

The frog area has a narrower gauge to make the rolling stock roll better through the frog.

I use the flangeway gauge to get it right.


Latest project to be started.

Bret's Brewery from Campbell.
This will be a nice addition to the layout.


There has been some progress on the brewery.

Content of the kit.

Some of the tools I use.

I started by measuring the parts and identifying them with the numbers from the manual.

I add woodgrain with a wire brush.

I cut out the windows with a xacto chisel blade, then I stained the areas which were to be glued together.

I add nail holes with a Trumpeter rivet wheel.

As you see, the wall lines up on the right side and the left is offset.

After staining the walls with india ink and alcohol, I paint the peeled off paint.

I use turps on a brush and while the surface is wet, I apply the acrylic paint which then pearls up in places to look like peeled off paint when dry.

I used a light grey green paint.

Painted walls.

The trim was painted green.

I glued the walls together.

The floor is glued in place. I added a hole for the stairwell.

Support beams under the floor.

This is as far as I have gotten now.


I love photo's, don't we all.


Great start Graffen.....I started mine in the 80's and still don't have it done. Looking forward to seeing the completed kit.  8)
Gregory P. DeMayo
General Construction Superintendent Emeritus
St. Louis & Denver Railroad
Longwood, FL


Looks good so far.  I have this kit stashed somewhere, but have lost the water tank cores.  Can you please tell me the diameter of the water tank?




I built this structure about 50 years ago.  Still have it and will incorporate in my layout.  You are doing vary nice work on your kit.
Steve Drees


Thanks!  :)

Some more construction pics of the brewery.

The door frames cut out from cardboard:

The painted doors:

Primed windows:

Painted windows with green acrylics:

Real glass cut to size with a diamond scribe:

The buildings foundation:

Loading docks:

The water tank:

The boiler house with the PVC stone sheet that is glued with contact cement:

I used Tamiya putty on the corners:


Roof with cardboard frames to make it removable:

Corrugated sheet cut to size:

Mortar made with pulverized clay mixed with PVA and water and then wiped away from the top of the stones:

Getting there:


Bret's Brewery in HO scale.

The band!

Loading dock

The rail side.

Boiler house

Front on.

Upper floor detail.

Water tank.


Thomas Yorke's kit of the "Pool Hall and Bordello" in HO scale.



Primed the castings with grey and started the stone color.

I paint the stones with a light ochre.

The floor:

I used the Vallejo wood paint set.

Looks nice when dry.

The fronts are very time consuming to build, as they need to be built to fit.

Interior wall for the stair well.

Most of the building assembled.

The rooms are lit up with SMD LEDs



Roof details:

Fuel tank;



I'm very happy with the result.

Powered by EzPortal