FOS' DeGraw's Poultry Market & Gordo's Fried Chicken

[Dave K.]

Welcome to the "other side."  Enjoying your thread. I'm of the "you can't over-brace" school, myself. Stripwood is cheap compared to the headache of warpage (is "warpage" a word?). Love the story about your dad and the patch. Build on!

[ACL1504]

Welcome to the "other side."  Enjoying your thread. I'm of the "you can't over-brace" school, myself. Stripwood is cheap compared to the headache of warpage (is "warpage" a word?). Love the story about your dad and the patch. Build on!

Dave,

Thanks for the kind words and for following along. I've often gone to larger bracing just due to the Florida humidity! I think warpage is a word.

Tom

[MAP]

I just stumbled on this thread.  I've always liked this kit.  You're really coming along nicely with the build so far.  I'm also nutty about adding more/bigger bracing when I can.  Keep the photos coming! 

Warp´age
n. 1. The act of warping

[GPdemayo]

Atta boy Tom.....great to have your kit build threads back.....!!!

[ACL1504]

I just stumbled on this thread.  I've always liked this kit.  You're really coming along nicely with the build so far.  I'm also nutty about adding more/bigger bracing when I can.  Keep the photos coming! 

Warp´age
n. 1. The act of warping

Mark,

Thank you for stopping by and for the kind words, much appreciated. I'll add a little more to the build this morning.

Tom

[ACL1504]

    Before using the stripwood for the bracing, examine it to determine which way the grain is going. I have found that warping can depend on which "face" of the stripwood that I glue against the wall. Also, eye down the strip and look for any slight warpage- then choose the side of the warp to go against the wall (the concave face against the wall surface). I still have some warping from time to time but since I started examining the strip wood in this manner, I have noticed that my bracing is much better.
bob c.

Bob,

I appreciate you stopping by for a comment, thank you! Your suggestion is wonderful and I normally check things like this. I guess it was another "senior moment", not sure. I'll make a mental note for the next build.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Atta boy Tom.....great to have your kit build threads back.....!!!

Greg,

It is nice to be back in the saddle. Seems like I fell off the horse years ago.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Okay, the old thinner bracing was removed and the scale 12X12's were added in the same locations. I added a couple of horizontal braces as well.



I applied a second coat of A&I wash/stain to the front side of the walls and kept it off the new bracing. After it dried I had no warping of walls.

[ACL1504]

Time to consider the colors. Well, actually, there is nothing to consider as part of the charm of DeGraw's are the colors Doug has on the pilot model. He mentioned he mixed paint until he had a color he liked. That color was Ochre. I tried mixing some yellows and browns and couldn't come up with anything I was satisfied with. Doug also mentioned that the modeler could also use Polly Scale Reading Yellow. I went through my paint stash and even bought two other yellows to see if I could get the color close to what he has in the color photos.

NOTE: I was also aware of the fact the color photo supplied in the kit was subject to the copier ink and the printing process. Each of these will and can affect the outcome or the color in the photo. However, the color in the photo was good by me so I worked to that end.

Here are the group of yellows I looked at in making a decision.



Left to right - Polly Scale Reading Yellow, Floquil Chicago North Western Yellow, Polly Scale Military Camo Yellow,  Floquil Union Pacific Armor Yellow, Floquil Southern Pacific Armour Yellow and finally Golden's Yellow Ochre.

Here is how they looked when applied to the siding.



The Reading Yellow and CNW Yellow were just to yellow. The Military Camo Yellow and the UP Yellow looked to have to much green in the color. The SP Yellow looked to brownish to me.

The winner is the Golden's Yellow Ochre. This is very close to the color in the photo. I purchased the Yellow Ochre from Sam Flax Artist and Supply store and it was 50% off. I painted the walls using this color and am very pleased with how it turned out.



The bare spots are a result of me applying to much paint and I needed to remove the heavy build up. I used the curved #17 blade to remove the paint. I'll touch it up prior to moving on to the next step in the build.

Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

Okay, after a Diet Pepsi or two, I decided to push the limit on the #17 blade bending.

NOTE: I was wearing my reading glasses and the Opti-Visor when I was doing this so proceed at your own risk.

I pressed the blade down on my work mat to see just how far I needed to go to get a good bend. As you can see, it can be bent quite a bit by applying alot of pressure to the blade. I got the Xacto knife almost straight up without breaking the blade. NO pliers needed afterall.



In the photo below, the blade on the right was bent using pliers. The one on the left was bent by applying pressure to the blade against the work mat.



This second method is much easier and faster.

Stay thirsty my friends.

Tom

[ACL1504]

When building models and using the clapboard style siding, I've noticed in my threads and in others, where the siding doesn't quite match the adjoining wall section. If one is planning on painting a bottom section of the wall with another color, the uneven  section distracts from the finished model. I don't plan on this model falling into that category.

This small issue is very visable when using the corner trim. Here is what I'm talking about. Refer to the photo below and notice how the siding boards don't align with each other. The bottom of the walls are even but the boards aren't. I've come up with a way to fix this but I'll have to show you later in the build thread.



I wasn't sure just how high to come up from the bottom of the wall to add the tape so I studied Doug's photos at length. The B&W photos weren't much help but the color photos gave me the best idea of how far up on the exterior walls the second color comes. I decided the exterior walls needed to be taped nine (9) boards from the bottom. In the photo below you can see the blue painters tape has been added and you can see even better the difference in the exterior wall boards with respect to them being even.



Prior to painting on the second color make sure the tape is as flat on the wall boards as you can get it. I used my fingers to press it down but I also used a piece of scrap stripwood. If you choose to use a piece of scrap wood, be sure you pull it along the tape edge and  DON'T PUSH IT!

By pushing it against the tape you may/can run the risk of tearing the tape and gouging the wall surface.



Now all the wall sections are taped and ready for the bottom paint color.



Continued later next week.

Tom

[ReadingBob]

Excellent.  I'm looking forward to reading about your solution to the misaligned clapboard siding.   

[S&S RR]

Excellent.  I'm looking forward to reading about your solution to the misaligned clapboard siding.   

I'm also looking forward to seeing your solution. Prototypical clapboard siding is started at the bottom and added board on board to the top. Any difference in the width of the board would be made up on the top.

[MAP]

Looking good!  I like your color sample board.  Great way to compare colors, and you can save it for future use to use for comparing contrasting trim or two-color walls as you're doing now. 

[ACL1504]

Excellent.  I'm looking forward to reading about your solution to the misaligned clapboard siding.   

Bob,

Thanks for stopping by. I hope I didn't mislead nayone in reference to the misaligned boards. I plan to resolve the issue with paint only.

Tom