Bar Mills F&SM Tribute Kit Challenge Build

[engine909]

Wall color is very nice. Everything is done at you usual high level.
ed

[Dave K.]

Gonna enjoy looking over your shoulder on this one, Mike. 👍🏻

[Mike Engler]

It's great to have all of you seasoned veterans along for this thread- I've learned from you, admired your work, and become friends with many of you. Nothing better than train shows for bonding.


I have a short checklist on plastic windows. The Bar Mills windows are great. They also have some great die-cut windows you construct, but since this little building has about 30 windows I'm glad they are styrene. Quicker to install and some great detail.


Windows:


1.   Spray one side of window sheet with Dull-cote or Workable Fixatif (I don't like the new Dull-cote)
2.   Cut the individual window glazing pieces from the sheet.
3.   Use a sprue-cutter to remove all of the window frames from the sprue.
4.   Use X-acto and fine sand paper to clean any sprue parts from the frames.
5.   Tape all windows to some card stock for spraying.
6.   Spray a very light prime coat- I use tan (wood) or light gray rattle-can.
7.   I dabbed on the Blick Sapphire with the terry cloth, covering most of the primer- peeling paint look.
8.   Dry-brushed all of the windows with an acrylic antique white.
9.   Glued the glazing pieces to the windows. I use Formula 560 Canopy Glue. Shiny side facing out.
10. Glue windows in place, again with canopy glue. I use it for everything, including wood-to-wood.
11. Cut and glue window shades from tan construction paper. Dirty with chalk, cut some rips or tears.


Again- this is my sequence. Many kit manufacturers and good modelers will vary on how they do these things, and the order in which they do them. Again, I like to do as much as possible while the walls are flat on my kitchen counter cutting mat and plate glass.


   

[Bobby]

Awesome Mike... I love the brief outline!


I keep a similar "Cliff Notes" version of steps next to my workbench since I work so sporadically.


Santa gave me this kit....


I will be lurking to learn from one of our forum Jedi's.


I use a sponge to dab on the paint, is there much difference using a terry cloth? I'll have to give that a try....

[rpdylan]

yes, coming along nicely! I have never tried the terry cloth for sponging paint, I use a piece of grout sponge that i cut so i can have an "edge" to get into the clapboard.  I'm going to try the cloth method to see if there is any difference,,,,

[PRR Modeler]

Love the peeling paint look.

[Mike Engler]

Thanks Bobby, Bob, and Curt-

I also have used pieces of kitchen sponge to achieve peeling paint, and the results are indeed similar. I had used the terry cloth many years ago building one of Brett's SWSM kits. The terry cloth is more uneven and random, and is a nice change of pace. I also recently have used the primer (or A/I), mineral spirits, brush on acrylic evenly, and then after a few minutes dab with masking tape method. It will pull up splotches of the acrylic to leave some nice peeling paint. This works best on individual boards before you make your board-on-board wall. Don't know who did this first- I learned from Brett.

There are several others using rubber cement, Frisket, etc. All I know is I love peeling paint, and since I model early 1930's there are no new buildings, and the existing ones can't afford much-needed paint.

[Mike Engler]

Another project that should be done while the walls are flat, and I prefer to do before they are braced, is to apply all the signs. Especially my favorite types, stencil signs. Bar Mills includes a dandy for "Sal Manilla Egg Wholesaler. This one is great because it is white shaded by black, and Artie suggests using a piece of masking tape horizontally across the top of the stencil that becomes a hinge, in addition to keeping it in place.

This allows lifting up the stencil occasionally to make sure you are covering all the letters completely- and a check to make sure you haven't applied too much so that it runs. Also, I should have mentioned that it is a good idea to make some very light pencil marks to indicate on your bare walls where this and other signs will go before you start detailing lifted boards, etc.

When positioning the first or white layer make sure spacing will allow the second or black layer to fit. After the white goes down the stencil is moved to the right about 1/16". The key to making this a neat job is using acrylics not thinned, and using a stiff bristled brush (I think actually called a stencil brush) round about 1/4" in diameter. Get most of the paint off and dab the paint on with the brush held vertically. Occasionally lift the bottom of the stencil sheet up very carefully to see how you are doing. It doesn't hurt to push down gently on the outside of the letter you are painting with the fingers of your non-brush hand.

I actually practiced on some scrap siding with the white color before I did my sign. The key is the "dry brushing"- many years ago I screwed up a wall when too thin paint leeched out under a stencil and made the letters illegible.

[S&S RR]

Mike


It's looking great!

[PRR Modeler]

Very nice.

[MAP]

Nice job so far Mike.  I was tempted to pick this up at the Altoona Expo, but didn't.  I'll be following along.

[vinceg]

WALLS for wooden structures. (this one clapboard siding)

1.   Apply grain using wire scratch brushes, card file, and X-acto #11 blade
2.   Nail holes, using smallest pounce wheel. I use 3' centers- less looks hokey to me. If they are too       
      small to see it's OK as you probably wouldn't see them on the prototype either.
3.   Cut some board joints at the nail hole lines
4.   Pry up a few boards with a chisel blade.  DO NOT OVERDO
5.   Spray very light primer coat with cheap rattle-can (gray or tan) and dry for a day
6.   Dab on finish color lightly using dry-brush technique, apply with pieces of NEW terry cloth
7.   Weather with some A/I in places. This can also be done before finish coat applied.
8.   Apply signs, stencils.
9.   Apply interior bracing. Artie supplies 5/32" sq.  You can't overbrace but be mindful of adjoining walls.
10. Spray back of walls black- if no interior this will prevent looking in windows and seeing bracing etc.
11. Paint and apply corner posts.
12. Apply windows and doors. Separate check list on prepping and painting them.
13. Touch up your peeling paint with #11 blade- do final weathering

Some prefer to brace before any painting. Some install windows after walls are together. There are many ways to do all of things, and most will work. I prefer to do as much decorating and detailing of the walls while they are flat on the workbench.


 

Mike,

Which rattle can gray do you use? So many vendors and colors, some kinda blue-ish, etc. Seems like there might be good choices and bad choices.

Cheers,
Vince

[ACL1504]

Mike,

The sign came out great. Beautiful work sir. Love the wall colors also.

Tom

[sdrees]

Mike,

Your the master with the stencils.  Looks very nice

[Mike Engler]

Thanks for the kind words- good to know you folks approve.

Vince, I tend to buy whatever is cheap and handy regarding the primer. Rustoleum has a gray automobile primer I like, Krylon Camo gray if I have a coupon, Duplicolor Primer Sealer, and the cheapest from Sam's Club- their ColorPlace fast dry Spray Paint #20010 Equipment Gray Primer. I don't worry too much about the gray shade as most of it gets covered up. Always spray a little on some scrap, and if you don't like it take it back next time you go to that store.

Mark P- if you still want to get one of these Artie is still making them to order, and is taking orders until the end of this month. And if you are going to Springfield, the word is that he will have a few of them there as well. If I was a speculator.........