KC's Workshop X's 2 - Third build Challenge

[ACL1504]

I glued the four office walls together.



Kenny also includes structure flooring in the kit.



Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

I glued the front and rear walls inside the two peaked ends. When the office is placed over the flooring section it fits like a glove.

If by chance you choose to use corner trim, the flooring section won't fit like a glove. It will fit like it is corner trim to small.




I next glued the rear wall section to the rear of the office wall as shown. Actually, the back wall fits next to the side peaked wall section and NOT the rear wall.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

The photo below shows how my wall fits next to the peaked end. For stability, I added the 1/8 ' bracing vertically as shown.



Due to my vertical brace, the fit to the wall wasn't flush. It was necessary for me to remove the first batten from the left. The area where the batten was removed is shown in the next photo. You can see where I cut the batten out.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

I made sure both rear walls were aligned and flat during the glue drying process. I used a heavy metal piece to be sure the alignment was correct.





I set this section aside to dry.

More in a few.

[ACL1504]

Here is the office floor and storage area floor.

NOTE: Do not glue the flooring together as shown below.





If you do glue the flooring as shown above, this is how your building will look once placed over the flooring.



NOTE:   You want the two flooring sections glued together with the rear flush with each other.

Diet Pepsi time, back in a few.

[ACL1504]

The photo below shows you how NOT to position the loading dock decking.



The next photo shows how the loading dock should look, out in front of the office.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

Kenny did an excellent job at laser cutting in the individual boards and knot holes on the loading dock platform.



However, it is a scale 6 inches thick and looks way out of scale to me.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

I tried an extreme fix.

I used my belt sander and shave off 3 inches of the thickness. Three inches is still to thick for me but I was concerned I'd shave 3" off my fingers if I continued that process.






I have a solution for this and still be able to save/use Kenny's flooring.

You'll have to wait on this little fix as I'm going to move on to the other build using the scribed siding.

[ACL1504]

I forgot to show the building walls all glued in place but  can be seen in previous photos above.



I used Canopy Glue for the window glass. When dry I painted the backs to represent shades and glued the windows in place.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

I painted some 2x6's in the same way I did the walls. I used the 2x6's for exterior rafters.

Kenny included the 2x6's in the kit. The 2x6's are longer than needed but will be trimmed to fit after the roof panels are installed.

You can also see in these photos the top of the belt/chair rail is painted white and the front is green.

[PRR Modeler]

Another great build and how to Tom.

[jerryrbeach]

Tom,
Looks great, as usual.  I'll be interested to see how you make the flooring thinner.  I do not recommend trying it on a belt sander like you did, glad you stopped before an "Ouch".  I have gotten my finger into a moving sanding belt a couple times and it is not a rewarding experience. 

[Amagic41]

To cut that out of 1/32 stock is too brittle... I have had a few customers just do it board by board

[ACL1504]

Another great build and how to Tom.

Curt,

Thanks for following along.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Tom,
Looks great, as usual.  I'll be interested to see how you make the flooring thinner.  I do not recommend trying it on a belt sander like you did, glad you stopped before an "Ouch".  I have gotten my finger into a moving sanding belt a couple times and it is not a rewarding experience.

Jerry,

I mentioned the belt sander as an extreme but I have a great idea and still be able to use Kenny's deck. More on that later.

Tom