KC's Workshop X's 2 - Third build Challenge

[ACL1504]

Looks great Tom.

Curt,

Thank you. Much appreciate you following along.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Tom,
That bracing looks so good, maybe you should model the building inside out!

Jerry,

Thank you. And, you may be on to something.


Tom

[ACL1504]

Curt Webb, PRRModeler on the forum, gave me some paint advice for Pennsy structures. He told me that Tamiya Buff, #XF-57 is a very good match for the walls and he mentioned a couple of browns for the trim and windows, doors.

I was at the local hobby shop on Saturday afternoon and picked up the Tamiya Buff. While there I found Tamiya Red Brown #XF-64 for the brown color. The "Red" in Red Brown had me for a few minutes until I realized this structure will be heavily weathered.



Here are the two colors painted on the rear of some scribed siding. Both colors are full strength out of the bottles.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

I applied two very light coats of Hunterline A&I Creosote Black to the walls. I set them aside to thoroughly dry.



I noticed when the A&I dried all the nail holes disappeared.  So, the nail holes were "ponced" back into the walls.

I used a 1/4" soft brush to paint the walls.

I dipped the brush into some clean 70% alcohol and then into the Tamiya Buff paint. I then dabbed the tip of the brush on a clean paper towel and then brushed the paint on the walls. I periodically dipped the brush in the paint and alcohol to get the desired result.

I let the first coat dry and then applied a second coat. Again, I noticed the nail holes missing so I "ponced" the a third and final time.

Here are the walls after the second coat of Tamiya Buff.



My photo makes it look like Floquil Driftwood but it is buff colored.

The third application of nail holes added to the wall on the left.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

I applied the A&I stain to the corner trim and let dry. I then used the same method of the Red Brown on the trim and let these dry overnight.



I painted the windows using the red brown and alcohol mix. The Tamiya paints are an Alcohol based paint so the blending or thinning of the paint with alcohol works very well.



Diet Pepsi time folks. Back in a few.

[engine909]

Tom, Always a pleasure to view your modeling.
ed

[ACL1504]

Tom, Always a pleasure to view your modeling.
ed

Ed,

Thank you, always happy to have you follow along on any build thread.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Over the years, I've kept the back of legal and note pads. The cardboard is perfect for some replacement roof panels.



The roof panels Kenny supplied in the kit fit fine. However, as a personal preference, I wanted my roof to hang over just a little more. I cut a new roof panel and added an additional 6 HO scale inches to the width of the card.

KC's card on the top and the new one on the bottom.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

I decided on how much I wanted the roof to hang over the front and rear walls by placing the structure over some cardboard.

I then marked and cut it accordingly. Oddly enough, my width turned out to be the same as the supplied roof cards.




More in a few.

[ACL1504]

Here is how the new size roof panel looks front and rear.





Back in a few, I forgot to get the Diet Pepsi.

[ACL1504]

I added a ridge beam for added roof support.



I painted the freight door to match the walls. I used an HO scale 2X2 for the door slide bar. I painted the bar with Floquil Rail Brown. You can use any rust color as well. The door was glued to the 2X2 and the substructure was then glued to the front wall.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

The door hangers were painted Floquil Rail Brown.



I mentioned earlier in the post I had something I wanted to try with the floors supplied in the kit. They are 6 HO scale inches thick. To hide the thickness this is what I did.

I stained some HO scale 2X8's and edge glued them to the outside edges of the floor on all sides.  I used Hunterline Medium Brown for the stain.

This next photo shows the bottom side.



Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

I  placed the shed on the top side of the floor and marked with a pencil where the decking fits to the wall.

I'm going to fast forward here and show that the decking is in place. I used 2X8's and a few 2X6's for the freight deck. When the glue dried, I used the soft side of an Emory Board to sand some of the stain off the boards.



You can see that I also randomly cut the front of the boards like Kenny did with the laser.

Here is the new deck boards.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

I glued the front and rear roof cards in place.

I painted the underside of the roof panel in Floquil Reefer White.



I did the same on each gabled end. Nothing grates me more than to see a model, be it a contest model or manufacturer model where the underside of the roof panel can be seen in the natural cardboard. There, I said it. And, I'm not pointing fingers, just stating a fact that bothers moi!



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

I also added exterior rafters to each end of the shed.

These were glued to the outside edge of the roof panel and not under the edge. They are flush with the top of the panel.



Here you can see how they are glued to the edge.

Flush on the top and on the outside edge.



More in a few.