KC's Workshop X's 2 - Third build Challenge

[ACL1504]

To cut that out of 1/32 stock is too brittle... I have had a few customers just do it board by board

Kenny,

Thanks for stopping by. Yes, the board by board will work as well. I thought about it but came up with a way to make it look board by board and still use what you provided in the kit. It will look just as good.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Construction has started for the second utility shed. This one is scribed siding and is being built for Bill and Kris Cutler's Pennsy, Six Miles West of Altoona and More.

http://modelersforum.com/layout-tours/the-pennsy-six-miles-west-of-altoona-and-more/

It will be painted in the old Pennsy colors, walls Buff and trim Brown.



I used the small Ponce Wheel from Micro Mark and added the obligatory nail holes.



I may as well get the Diet Pepsi now as I have a lot to cover this afternoon.

Back when ever.

[ACL1504]

I sanded the "kerfs", meaning I sanded the edges of the walls where the laser cut at an angle. I also test fit the five windows and all fit well with no adjustments needed.

I marked in red on the rear of the walls to indicate where bracing should be glued.

NOTE:  On this build I used HO scale 10x10's for the bracing. Kenny includes six (6) 1/8" pieces, close to being 14 X 14, for  bracing in the kits. I like the smaller 10 x 10's for smaller structures.

I used the  larger 1/8" on the first utility shed and they worked fine as well. Just personal preference here.

NOTE TO KENNY:  With all the bracing I did on the first utility shed, I only used 4 of the 6 1/8" sq. bracing pieces. You can cut the kit down to 4 and save some money.

Here is where I will brace the walls.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

Okay, I made a mistake and marked in red where a brace SHOULD NOT be glued. See below.



The reason no bracing goes here is due to the end wall brace fitting flush to the area I marked in red on the right side.

Again, see below photo for picture explanation. These walls are not glued at this time.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

In the above photo, notice how neat and clean the bracing is at the top of the peaked wall?

Ever wonder how we as modelers get them like that?

Here's the angle on doing it. I couldn't resist a little pun there in the angle. However, it is literally in the angle of the cut.

Here is how I do it. I've never shared this technique in the past. And, I don't always do it this way.

In the next photo notice how the 10x10 extends above the right side of the peaked roof. DO NOT glue the brace in place at this time.



Cut off the extention of the 10x10 off at the angle of the peaked roof side.

Here is how it looks from the rear.





More in a few.

[ACL1504]

Now, take this piece, turn it over and "butt" it against the center brace as shown below.



Perfect fit, er, I mean angle. Neat huh?

Now you can glue it in place and let dry.





More in a few.

[ACL1504]

When the brace is dry, you can cut the brace off the side as shown below.



Again, flip the 10x10 over and butt it against the upper brace as shown below.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

Do the same with the other side  and here is how it should look. Nice professional cut and easy peasy!




As mentioned, it's all in the angle.

More in a few.

[ACL1504]

When gluing the pieces on the wall, I place a metal bar against the wall. I press the brace down and against wall and metal bar for a clean glue job between the brace and rear of the wall.





Not to tricksie but easy peasy.

Continued in a few more.

[ACL1504]

This method can be used for even small cuts on a peaked wall section.





In a few more.

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All braced and ready to paint.

[PRR Modeler]

Looks great Tom.

[jerryrbeach]

Tom,
That bracing looks so good, maybe you should model the building inside out!