Rugg Manufacturing - SRMW Kit 170

[Janbouli]

Looking great Vince . I always glaze after I install the windows , the walls act as a great holder.

[PRR Modeler]

Very nice so far Vince.

[Jerry]

Very nice job Vince.

Jerry

[vinceg]

Sorry, all. I haven't posted in a while. I've been working on the kit but am delinquent in documenting the progress. Trying to get caught up now.

First, a word about the documentation errors I mentioned earlier. I said I would try to specifically point them out along the way. But, as I have been working on this, I am finding several. I think it would be tedious to read if I tried to capture everything (and tedious to write, of course). So, let me try to summarize. Most of what I have found are labeling errors. That is, the kit includes a number of castings (both hydrocal and resin). It also includes laser-cut wall pieces. These pieces are documented on heavyweight paper sheets (that SRMW labels as "Card No. 1 to Card No. 14) in the kit. Each casting and wall section is given a label. For example, clapboard sections are labeled "A", "B", etc. Hydrocal castings are labeled "W1", "W2" (for walls), "F1", "F2" (for foundation pieces), etc. As I am going through the instructions, I am finding several cases where the label referenced in the instructions does not match the label on the sheet. An even more obvious example is on Card 2 where there are two different walls that are both labeled "W8". So far, this label mismatch issue is the primary source of errors I have run into.

There are a few other things that are a bit confusing. The kits includes diagrams that suggest bracing for each of the clapboard pieces. It does a very good job of helping you keep out of trouble in terms of avoiding bracing interference at corner wall joints. But, on "Card No. 8" there are three walls (N, O, and R) that show the clapboard lines on the pieces and the braces on top of them. None of the others do that. Might lead one to believe that you are to apply the bracing on the milled side. Perhaps this might be for the purpose of using the plain side of the wall as a former for a board on board application. But that's not the case. In fact, geometrically speaking, there would be no way to apply the braces to the clapboard side and get the picture you see on the card. But, it did force me to think for a while (and this is usually not a good thing). Finally, clapboard section "N" is shown on the card to have a window but in reality it does not. The sense I get from all of these errors is that the kit evolved over time and the documentation didn't stay in sync. Given the massive amount of work it takes to engineer a product of this complexity, that's not surprising.

I don't want to give the impression that the instructions are bad - they are not...quite the opposite. I found them to be very helpful and thorough. However, the labeling errors require a little care. To navigate through the potential gotchas, look at and cross-check the several pieces of information available for each step:

• Pictures and labels on the Bracing Diagrams (Cards 7, 8, and 9)
• Pictures and labels on the casting cards (Cards 2, 3)
• Layout Diagrams on Cards 1 and 10
• Window application cards (Cards 4, 5, 6, and part of 3
• Verbiage in the instruction book
• Diagrams in the instruction book
• Photos in the instruction book
• Finished kit photos on the two poster sheets and the two color prints (one on box, one on instruction booklet)

Not surprisingly, the photos were most helpful -- both the posters and color print as well as the in-manual photos. Before I do any step I look for an associated photo for guidance. From there I can cross-check to the more detailed information to get the rest of what I need.

In retrospect, perhaps this wasn't the best choice for the next kit for me to build. I have only built one previous SRMW kit and two large FSM kits. This kit is already pretty complex (for me) compared to the previous ones and the errors add to the challenge. But, I do love the structure and am having a lot of fun building it. I am hoping I'll be able to stay out of trouble.

OK. Back to the build. I have a lot of photos to post and document. Trying to get it all out this morning.

More shortly....

Vince

[vinceg]

Here is the diorama with the basic foundation and wall castings in place:



There's not much to say, process-wise. You can see the template that is glued to the plywood and foam that guides you to the location of the parts.

The castings were finished when I started 10 years ago or so. But, the process was basically start with red spray primer (I don't recall if it was Rustoleum or Krylon) then paint over with a light wash of Polly Scale Boxcar Red. After that, I painted a few bricks with Earth, Grimy Black, and some other red (that I don't recall). What I did recently was add the mortar. That process was just to use a single-edge razor blade and a stick of light gray chalk to scrape some dust onto the casting. Then, spread it around with a light finger touch. Finally, rubbed it in hard with my thumb. The last step helps get the dust off the face of the bricks and reduces the washout effect.

Castings all fastened with Weldbond glue.

You can also see that not all the castings are in place, yet....W7, for example. The instructions do not yet call for that so I haven't done it.

BTW, the end of the diorama closest to you is North.

More in a bit.....

Vince

[vinceg]

Here's a view from the northwest. Gives another perspective on the building's foundation.



Notice that I have a gap between gray cinder block wall with the two windows and the small brick foundation that sits atop the stone wall. You can see that the brick foundation does not completely cover the slot in the stone wall below it. My recollection is that the paper diagram (that is glued to the base) specifically called for that. Additionally some pictures that I saw also seemed to suggest that. The solution would appear to be that I should have pushed that cinder block wall a little south to close off that gap. But, in my cross checking, I think that created a problem for me on the other side of the building. I was able to place the walls (without glue) on top of this base fairly cleanly so this is the arrangement I came up with. Only afterward did I noticed this gap.

So, to deal the gap, I took a small scrap of bracing wood (1/8" square), painted it concrete color, and glued it into the gap. Looks like this:



I think that will look fine. It remains to be seen what problems I have created for myself downstream. If Bob is out there, he's probably shaking his head at this point 

Notice also that there is some light coming through the joint where the cinder block wall meets the stone wall. I suspect that will be completely dark once the structures are on top but to be sure I ran a bead of glue from behind the joint and painted it black.

One other thing to point out. In the first (top) photo, look to the left of the cinder block wall. Notice the vertical wall painted in red primer. See that is has a little notch? The low end of notch is level with the cinder block wall. The notch is intended to allow the clapboard wall that sits on top of the cinder block wall to extend all the way across onto the perpendicular foundation wall. However, there is interference here because that notch is not wide enough to clear the bracing member on that west wall (that sits on the cinder block wall). So, I had to notch out a piece of bracing to accommodate it. Here's the result:



The walls start going up next. More in a bit....

Vince

[PRR Modeler]

You're doing great.

[vinceg]

The main building walls are the first to go up. Here are the first two:



A few things here catch my attention:

• If you look at the brick wall facing you with the two eight-paned windows, there is a slight gap between the top of the right window and the bottom of the clapboard wall. Not sure if I should do something about that or not. If anything, I suppose I will run another bead of glue in from the back and paint it black to stop any light from coming through. I want to be careful, though. I have a long history of trying to make things a little better and ending up making them a lot worse.
• Looks to me like that cinder block wall has a bit of a sheen to it -- seeing some reflection of the paper and stone wall. In fact, that whole wall is kind of "clean" looking. I will have to think about what to do about that.
• The cinder block wall seems to be not perpendicular. At least compared to the red wall it adjoins, the top of the wall appears to be slanted in ever so slightly. Could just be the red wall. In any event, I won't worry about this is that seam will be covered up with W8 and the structure that rests on that brick foundation piece.
• The wooden sliding door on the brick extension doesn't seem to have much detail. I am guessing that when I painted this 10 years ago, I applied too much paint and it filled in the casting relief. Either that or that casting is not that detailed. This is a prominent view and I will want to do something about that. In other castings that you will see later, I did just recently scribe in some wood detail to create a little more definition. Maybe the same thing would work here although I again want to be mindful of my ability to make things much worse in an attempt to make them a little better. Maybe dry brushing? Would appreciate suggestions if anyone has some.

Here's another view:



Maybe chalks will be all that is needed to work on that cinder block wall - cut down the sheen and make it a little more weathered. Would appreciate suggestions here, too (or better yet, examples).

Here's the last perspective. And, as a bonus, my first action photo!



The instructions recommend that you raise the walls first, then apply the corner posts. I had never done that before. It was always glue on the corner posts before the windows were installed so that you can get a perfectly-aligned fit. But, waiting to install the corners is a much better idea here. with so much going on with aligning foundations and walls in two dimensions, it's nice to have the ability to cheat a little bit on the corner posts. I think it would be very hard to close gaps if the corners were attached first.

I glue in the post before cutting and then use fingernail clippers to trim to length. Props to Scotty Mason for that tip.

Note also that there are two windows very close to the north corner on the east wall. So close, in fact, that you can see the bracing member on the north clapboard wall. I tried to minimize the distraction by painting the outward face black. Not entirely happy with the result. I really should have fogged these windows before gluing in place. I might still try to do that. Shades might also help.

More to come in a while but I need to take a break to run some errands, first. See you later today.

Vince

[ReadingBob]

Looking good Vince!  Very good!   

Like you, I find that when I'm posting photo's on the forum I see things (must be a Sixth Sense kind of thing) that weren't apparent to me when I was working on the model on the workbench.   

[Erieman]

Vince,
Very nice work. The Rugg company was my first SRMW kit i built back when they first came out. I built it just like the instructions.  I have built several other SRMW kits since then, many have been modified to enhance the building location. I was sorry to see Bob hang up his shingle and retire, but it happens to us all. One time several years ago while attending the Amherst Train show, I drove over to see Bob's layout and manufacturing area in his barn. Quite a treat. On the return, i took another way back from his house and there at the  end of the road, there it was, the RUGG Mfg company. What a treat.


Keep up the great work.


Frank / Erieman

[vinceg]

Vince,
Very nice work. The Rugg company was my first SRMW kit i built back when they first came out. I built it just like the instructions.  I have built several other SRMW kits since then, many have been modified to enhance the building location. I was sorry to see Bob hang up his shingle and retire, but it happens to us all. One time several years ago while attending the Amherst Train show, I drove over to see Bob's layout and manufacturing area in his barn. Quite a treat. On the return, i took another way back from his house and there at the  end of the road, there it was, the RUGG Mfg company. What a treat.


Keep up the great work.


Frank / Erieman

Great story, Frank. Quite a treat indeed to see the real Rugg. I don't know if it's still standing but if so, I would like to try to do a drive-by next time I am out there (live in Chicago so I don't get out there much).

I have also visited Bob a few times over the years - most recently last September with my wife in tow. It's fun to have a casual chat with Bob - he is such an interesting guy and has applied his creative talents to several other serious hobbies as well. Had a fun moment with my wife while we were there. She noticed the river at the far end of the property. Then, somehow, despite having purchased a kit from Bob almost every year for the last 20 years or so (every year my Christmas present was a yellow box and my birthday present was a red box) came up with the question "Oooo. What river is that?" Bob paused a moment and then politely said, "That's the South River." The light bulb went on. We all had a good chuckle (maybe a little less so for my wife  ).

I am also planning to build Rugg per spec except for the paint scheme. I need more experience before trying to kitbash these beautiful kits.

Cheers,

Vince

[vinceg]

Here are a few more pics. This catches me up with the current state of the build. Please ignore the wall with no windows. That's just a test fit - not glued into place.







It was at this point that a realized that I neglected to treat the windows in any way (shades, fogging, blacked-out panes). I need to decide what to do there so that I can treat the other walls before I install them where it becomes more difficult. I have a separate thread posted in the Baggage Car thread to discuss that.

I also need to decide if this is weathered enough. My intent from the beginning was not to have a dilapidated building but one that was weather-worn but still reasonably-maintained. I think I still need to do some things here (dirt film on areas near the ground, some additional fading/staining under windows, e.g.) but am not sure how far to go. I would really appreciate opinions/suggestions on this.

I also considered whether I wanted to do some lighting. This is the time to start drilling some holes if I am. I ultimately decided that I would not do that. Probably have my hands full just getting back in the game with the basic build. I can think a little more about additional effects in future builds of other kits.

Cheers,

Vince

[Janbouli]

Thank you for taking the time to document this build so well, If I ever get to build this one I know where to look for guidance.

As for the weathering , I think there needs to be some dirt and such to comply with the paint , although the paint is not dilapidated , it has been on the building for some time.

[postalkarl]

Hi Vince:

It's coming along very nicely. Those are tough kits to build from what I've heard. I've never built one. Have fun and I will be following along.

Karl

[vinceg]

Thank you for taking the time to document this build so well, If I ever get to build this one I know where to look for guidance.

As for the weathering , I think there needs to be some dirt and such to comply with the paint , although the paint is not dilapidated , it has been on the building for some time.

Thanx, I definitely agree. Do you have any places you can point me at for some specific ideas and/or techniques?

Vince