SRMW Threadwell Textile on the S&S RR

[PRR Modeler]

Sorry about what happened.  I have used Vallejo water and was happy with it, but it was a small pour. I would talk with Tom. His water features are outstanding.

[Rail and Tie]

Another thought. The reaction / rise has me perplexed. I wonder if it needed a sealer coat between your painted undersurface and the gel.  Would not think that the Air Acrylic would be a problem with acrylic gel,...   maybe the pan pastels?  Unlikely but maybe?


For water where I don't see the bottom in transparency, I like to use layer after layer of dabbed modge podge. Has always been my go to after trying a bunch of other stuff.  I was however very intrigued with the self leveling gel that you used. I really hope you figure it out. The stuff looks great over a very textured painting.

[ReadingBob]

Sorry I can't offer any ideas or help on the water issue.  I haven't done too much with water lately and have very limited experience.  I am interested in the thoughts and comments others are sharing as well as seeing how you recover from this (which I'm certain you will).

[EricQuebec]

First time I see this kind of result with Golden Product.
I use Golden acrylic soft gel for  many years and haven't any bad surprise.
In my opinion, the thickness of the coat is responsible, or the temperature of the room during drying process.
Eric.

[S&S RR]

Kurt, Daryl, Bob and Eric


Thank you for your comments and input. I spent some time on artist u-tube channels this morning thanks to a link that Tom Boyd sent me. The way the artists use this stuff is to start out with 1/16 and then towel it out until it's real thin.  One of the videos showed this beautiful painting were they put it on "too thick" and it looked like my pond only it had dried clear. You could see the troughs in the surface. Based on the videos I think it would take a month safely get enough coats to get the thickness I need for this application. You have to take 24 hours minimum between coats for it to cure. So this morning I pealed it all off.  It wasn't to painful - just took some time and the right tools. I took a few pictures during the process to remind me not to do this again.

[S&S RR]

Here are a few pictures of the tear out process.

[S&S RR]

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[S&S RR]

Some cleanup work and a few repairs and I will be repainting the bottom of the pond.  While the paint is drying I'm going to watch Dave Frary's video on water.   He uses Mod Podge so I think I will give that a try.  The coats will be relatively thin.  My experience is with using resin for water and I need to have a real good experience with Mod Podge to not go back to resins for my big water seems coming up.


One final comment on this subject.  I think part of the problem is this material needs someplace to go as it cures.  It does expand. On a painting there are no walls confining it. Take a look at my once very straight stone wall. It looks very prototypical now from all the freeze cycles. The stone walls are resin and actually took a set from the stress.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hi John.

So pleased to see you posting this 'learning experience' for all us watching to benefit from.  So often these little setbacks are just swept under the carpet.  I used Troels Kirks method for sea water slightly modified (without waves) for my canal in my Jon H. Olson chemical works diorama and was very pleased with the results.  Troels was kind enough to post a youtube video, with information on medium used and techniques here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMtXDlS0Tdg

Cheers, Mark.

[S&S RR]

By the end fo the day we recovered from the water setback. I now have the model sitting on my moveable cart so I can get at the back of the diorama to work on it.  Today, I added more land forms, rocks and loading docks. As you can see from the pictures, the base coat of paint has been reapplied to the pond area.  I also made up a little foam board test piece, to test the new water material before I add it to the diorama.

[S&S RR]

Hi John.

So pleased to see you posting this 'learning experience' for all us watching to benefit from.  So often these little setbacks are just swept under the carpet.  I used Troels Kirks method for sea water slightly modified (without waves) for my canal in my Jon H. Olson chemical works diorama and was very pleased with the results.  Troels was kind enough to post a youtube video, with information on medium used and techniques here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMtXDlS0Tdg

Cheers, Mark.

Mark


Thanks for the link, I will take a look. As for posting the things gone wrong along with the things gone right - That's what build threads are supposed to be, in my opinion.  In this case I didn't do enough research on the new material. I will be doing some testing before I use another new method - or I will go back to using resin.

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