Kit Bashing Jason Jensen's Kit Bash of 3 KC's Workshop Kits.

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Tom, continues to look great. That screen door treatment is very convincing. I'm enjoying watching the build.

Vince,

Thank you. The screen door by KC really adds to the over all look of the model. Happy you are enjoying the build thread.

Tom

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Tom


Fantastic work! Love the details.

John,

Thank you kind sir. As you say, "It's all about the details."

Tom

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Tom,
I'm very much enjoying the entire post and techniques. The replacement boards and the screen door are impressive.  Fantastic work!
--George

George,

Thank you for the kind compliment on the build and techniques. I've done the replacement boards on other models and it adds another look to the model. Again, thank you.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Excellent Tom.

Curt,

Thank you as always my friend. Much appreciate you following along.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Tom,


Looks great!  I was a little dubious that the white walls with red trim might look a little garish.  Not so, your choice of the red to use was perfect

IMO

.


Another pet peeve of mine are structures that lack a foundation.  Kudos to Ken for including such a nice one with this kit.  Your use of stain rather than paint on the foundation is something I will have to try.

FWIW, I have started adding the nail holes after I paint the walls rather than before.  I have found the paint swells the wood and closes the nail holes.   I end up doing them again just as you did with this build.

Jerry,

Thank you for the compliment. I was a little concerned about the red as well. I've never done a white structure with red trim, ever. I liked Jason's build so I decided to give the red a try. So far, on my model it's working. Not sure I'll ever do another one though in this color scheme.

There weren't many structures in the south with stone foundations but I decided this would give this model a different look than most of my other models on the layout.

Reference nail holes, I started a few years ago of adding them prior to paint and then again lightly redoing them after painting.

Tom

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Tom,
Looks good....did you use the Hunterline full strength when redefining the nails holes?

Doug

Doug,

Thank you for the compliment, much appreciated.

Yes, the Hunterline added was full strength right out of the bottle. If you ever choose to use this method, use a very small tipped brush as it is easier to control in the nail holes.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Time to build the second story porch/balcony. I wanted to do this so I had a better look at where the main signage would look the best.

I made a small little deck using some scrap scribed siding and built a 2X6 frame around it as shown. It is 4.5 ft. wide and 15.5 feet long.



I supported the scribed siding by adding three short pieces of 4X4.



More in a few

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I glued it under the door frame and to the left just at the edge of the red trim.

I used metal squares to make sure it dried level and perpendicular to the wall.



While that was drying, I started to make some staircase stringers out of HO scale 2X12s.



More on this in the next post.

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Several companies make laser cut stringers and steps but I didn't have any on hand so it was necessary for me to make my own.

A forum supporter, Rusty Stumps, makes them. Others do as well as I mentioned.

To make mine, I cut halfway into the 2X12 at a 45 degree angle.



I then cut from the tip of the inside cut to the edge of the next cut in line. All at supposedly a 45 degree angle.

Here are two I cut. I cut the bottom first and used it as a pattern to cut the second.



More in a few.

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NOTE:  When gluing the two stringers to the model, make sure you glue them as they were cut.

In the next two photos you can see the two stringers I cut on top of each other. The second photos shows the two stringers with one flipped over. As you can clearly see, they don't and won't work this way.

Again, they need to be inside to inside to each other. I made a small pencil mark to indicate the inside of each stair stringer.





Diet Pepsi time, back after grabbing a cold one.

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Okay, back to my 2nd. story deck. It is dry and level, thankfully.



I cut three 4X4 posts and glued them vertically to the front outside wall. These of course are attached in theory to the interior framing of the front wall prior to the siding being nailed on.

I then cut three 4X4s to use as diagonal support posts for the decking.

I drilled #78 holes and added N&Bs to the vertical and diagonal 4X4 posts.

The three N&Bs on the bottom of the vertical posts aren't glued and were removed so the diagonal brace supports could be added.



More in a few.

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Did I mention level is a very good thing when building second story decking?



Time to crop and all more photos, back in a little while.

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You can glue your stringers to the front wall using different methods. Here are two I've used on past models.

You can first glue a 2X12 to the wall.



You can then glue the stringer against the 2X12. Or you can glue the stringer to the 2X12 and then glue the sub assembly to the wall.



More in a few.

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I cut a third stringer, glued two together and glued this double stringer to the wall as shown.

I did stain and paint them first.



Back in a few. Need a break.

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I wanted to use 4X4s for the railing posts. However, I didn't want to cut 4X4s to the size I needed. Here is what I did.

I stained and painted a few lengths of 2X4's and set them aside to dry. When dry I cut them to what I needed.

I cut ten pieces 3.5 HO scale feet in length and cut ten pieces 4.0 feet in length.



I then glued one piece of 3.5 2X4 to the 4.0 2X4 as shown. I made sure they were flush on the double 2X4, now 4X4 ends.



More in a few.