Kit Bashing Jason Jensen's Kit Bash of 3 KC's Workshop Kits.

[PRR Modeler]

Great job and how to so far.

[ReadingBob]

Great thread (as usual)!   

The thing about implausible construction, with someone like me anyway, is most of the time I don't know any better unless it's blatantly obvious.  That happens when you start off in accounting, become a banker and then finally a software developer.  I generally don't catch the small stuff.  Ignorance is bliss I suppose.   

[ACL1504]

Neat - scratchbuilding tutorial. I totally need this.

thx!

Vince,

You are welcome. Hopefully I have a few ideas you can use.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Great job and how to so far.

Curt,

Thanks very much. This will be fun to build.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Great thread (as usual)!   

The thing about implausible construction, with someone like me anyway, is most of the time I don't know any better unless it's blatantly obvious.  That happens when you start off in accounting, become a banker and then finally a software developer.  I generally don't catch the small stuff.  Ignorance is bliss I suppose.   

Bob,

Much appreciated, thank you. I don't think you have anything to worry about on your builds.

I want to build just like you do when I grow up!

Tom

[GPdemayo]

I wrote a dissertation about your problems with the design yesterday.....but the forum decided to crash while I was previewing the post.....so no post.    Oh well.. ...I'll tell you about it tomorrow when I bring the goodies. 

[ACL1504]

I need to clarify something I mentioned earlier in the thread.

In scratch building, I always cut new pieces, walls or anything else from the back side of a new sheet of lumber. This way, as I cut deeper in the wood the width of the blade is on the backside of the new piece.

Also, the reason you want both the new wood and the original piece face down is to ensure a duplicate or like copy of the original.

If you place the new piece face down and the original face up and then outline and cut, you will end up with a mirror piece. In other words your new piece will be backwards to the original.

Example as follows -

New wood face down and original face up.



Outlined and cut - mirror image/piece.



Remember - FACE DOWN and FACE DOWN.

More in a few.

[ACL1504]

I wrote a dissertation about your problems with the design yesterday.....but the forum decided to crash while I was previewing the post.....so no post.    Oh well.. ...I'll tell you about it tomorrow when I bring the goodies. 

Greg,

Not problems so much as my observations of models in general.

See ya tomorrow.

Tom

[ACL1504]

In cutting the front wall, I cut it in one piece. However, in looking at Jasons model, you can see a red separation between the top of the first story and the bottom of the second story.

Here is my new cut piece.



In order to make my model the way I intend, I needed to cut the top portion off.

The next photo shows how the 4X4 looks between the top of the bottom wall and the bottom of the top wall.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

On my model, I don't intend to have any of the second story (Utility Shed) on Jason's build hang over any portion of the bottom walls.

With this in mind, I used portions of the Utility Shed walls to make my upper/second story structure.

I cut a gabled end wall, placed the shed front wall over it and marked where I wanted the windows.





More in a few.

[ACL1504]

I then cut out the opening for the windows.

I used the original windows that came with the utility shed for the openings. However, I cut my new walls a little higher than the shed walls. When I inserted the windows, I thought they looked to small.

I then enlarged the window openings and used new Grandt Line windows.

Original window on the left and new window on the right.



Now both ends have slightly larger windows.





Diet Pepsi time folks, back in a few.

[ACL1504]

I then cut the back wall of the second story. I marked the angles of the rear roof line as shown in the photo below.

As you can see, I cut in the windows an equal distance from the side and also to not interfere with the rear roof line.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

On my model, I opted to not have the loft door or hoist on the second story substructure.

I cut the front wall to the same height as the rear wall shown above. I then marked where I wanted the windows and door. Instead of a storage area, my second story will serve as an office or small apartment area.

I marked on the rear of the front wall where the door and windows need to be cut.

The three dark lines are the center line for the door in the center and the center lines of the two windows.

The pencil points to the center of the window.



The next photo shows the pencil is pointing to the height of the window. In this case it is 6 boards from the bottom of the wall.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

Again, using the lines on the back of the new wall, I cut in the opening for the second story door.

For the door, I used a different Tichy door with a transom window above the door for extra light.



For the front windows, I chose to go with Northeastern HO scale wood framed windows. These are referred to as 4X2s.



Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

The window openings were cut, from the rear, and smoothed with an Emory boards. My #11 blade needed to be changed and I didn't, so the cut was a little rough. Lesson learned, again.





Here is the second story front wall section with door and windows.



More in a few.