Bar Mills Mooney's Plumbing

[jerryrbeach]

Steve,


The ridge cap really ties that roof together in a way I'll have to borrow.

[ACL1504]

Steve,

I agree with the painted roof and the overall appearance. The unfinished battens and ridge cap didn't look right.

Tom

[SteveCuster]

Thanks everyone.

I made a little more progress today. I got the roof on the smaller building and I started the loading dock and the water tank.

I didn't take enough pictures of the assembly of the decking and the water tank base. I thought I was stopping to take pictures but apparently I did not. I have a tendency to get wrapped up in the project and I forget to take photos.






I added the rafter tails and end rafters. Same as the other building.


The wooden dowel for the water tank core was missing from the kit. I have a few dowels sitting around. I found one that looked about right and cut it to fit.


The tank is made from one sheet with laser cut planks wrapped around the dowel.


It looks like the instructions have you using paper to simulate bands. I decided to use thin thread instead.


Here is everything mocked up in place. The tank isn't glued down. The weathering of the decking and the water tank assembly is not finished. I need to let the glue dry before I can start to weather it more.


I liked how the thread bands came out when I built this FSM Water Tank that's why I decided to go with thread on this one. I used the same thread also. It's a dark brown with very little fuzzies.


Thanks for checking in.

-Steve

[Opa George]

Steve, looks great. I prefer thread for water tanks, too, but I struggle with getting it applied straight . Do you have any special techniques for that?  Your bands on both tanks look straight as an arrow.
--George

[SteveCuster]

Thanks George. For the FSM kit I scribed horizontal lines in the siding before I applied it to the core. This kit already had horizontal lines so I followed those. If the lines are deep enough the thread locks right in to the groove. I super glue one end of the thread on first then make sure i pull it tight while gluing the rest of the way around.

-Steve

[PRR Modeler]

Very nice looking building and details.

[Bruce Oberleitner]

Very nice model.  I really like the paint scheme you chose for the building.

[SteveCuster]

This morning I went down and hit the dock, water tank and base with A&I to darken it a bit.


I came down this afternoon to this. I'm not big a fan of self adhesive parts for this reason. I used carpenters glue with the self adhesive material and it still came apart from the alcohol.


I cut a piece of scribed siding the same size as the laser cut piece. It's 1/64 thick.


George, this is how I make my lines straight. Since I was re-doing the water tank I decided to space the lines a little differently. I made them closer at the bottom.
I scribed the lines with a dull x-acto.


2 coats of A&I to get the color I wanted.


I glue the one side down with superglue and blow on it till it dries then I slowly work my way around gluing every 1/4 inch or so.


I added a little bit of moisture seepage on the bottom of the tank by holding it upside down and putting some thinned out green/gray paint along the bottom. I just let it flow up a bit trying to keep it very subtle.


Here it is completed. I still need to add some NBW castings to the base. The kit didn't include any so I had to find some. The only ones I had small enough are from an old FSM Pile Driver and they are lead so they need coloring.


While the tank pieces were drying I starting working on the castings. Here they are with the flash removed and cleaned up a bit.


After I clean up the castings I throw them all in a tupperware full of straight alcohol. This really helps keep the bubbles off when you blacken them. I learned this from Bill Obenauf.


I take everything right out of the alcohol and drop it in Jax Pewter Black then I dunk them in water and let dry on a paper towel.

Next step will be painting all the castings.

Thanks for checking in.

-Steve

[PRR Modeler]

Nice job on the tank.

[Opa George]

Steve, thanks much for the mini-lesson on the water tank bands. I never would have thought to scribe in a guide for the thread, but it makes sense, and your results are fantastic. The re-worked tank looks even better than the original, by the way.
--George

[ReadingBob]

Great recovery on the tank!  I'm with you.  I'm not a fan of peel and stick stuff either.

[MAP]

Really great work on the build Steve.  I appreciate all of the photos and detailed how-to's you've been including in your build. 

[jerryrbeach]

Steve,


Looks great!  I, too, appreciate all the explanations of how you achieved the outstanding results. 

[SteveCuster]

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the positive feedback and I'm glad I can share some of the techniques I use.

Worked for about an hour or so today. A couple more hours and I'll be done I think.


I decided to make my own roof sign for the smaller building. I use Serif Drawplus to make my signs. No big tricks here. I sanded the sign till it was thin then I glued it to 3 scale 2x8s. I used a razor to cut the sign at the ends of the boards. Weathered it up with some A&I and a little dark brown chalk. Even if I use the same name as the kit I usually like to make some of my own signs. I think it adds a little personal touch to the model.


Here it is glued to the building. I added some scale 4x4s as vertical supports.






Before I added the water tank I needed to add the pipe that goes out of the bottom of it. I had a piece of blackened brass tubing I used for this.


I added the water tank to the roof. I also added the small decking piece over the front. The decking needs a little more weathering.


Everything is starting to come together now. Just need to add a few more things, a little weathering and some details.

-Steve

[PRR Modeler]

Very nicely done Steve.