Magnuson Union Ave Freight Terminal - 2019 Tom Schwarz Build Challenge

[sdrees]

I really like the way your brick work turned out.

[Oldguy]

Off to a good start Bob, the wood staining looks great.

The funny thing is that I thought it needed a bit more wood color.  Then I got l looking at my boat dock wood decking.  It's been installed for close to 30 years and it too, has a silver sheen.  So I'm good.

[BandOGuy]

Jeez, I love this place!
But, I'm running out of bookmarks.

[Oldguy]

Decided I needed to delve into the deep waters and paint the building.  I picked what I thought would be a good red brick color and boy did that suck.  Waaay too red.  I used a sponge to apply it and wasn't real concerned about getting ever nook an cranny filled, so it really is ugly looking.   But then doing the mortar wash should tone it down, right.  Nope just made it more stark looking.  So decided, just to tone it down with Nutmeg craft paint.  Still didn't look good, but I'm in too deep now.  One nice thing about adding a loading dock is that it gives me the bottom wall section to be a test bed.  A light mortar wash was applied and it's okay, but still not thrilled how it came out.  I did a Nutmeg wash on an unprimed wall piece (left bottom area) and I really liked the light brown color.  Maybe for another project.

[rpdylan]

the third photo looks good to me,,,,,, have you tried lightly sponging some brown oxide color? you could then go back and sponge on a lighter red brick color over that......

[Janbouli]

The third photo looks good , assuming you're going to paint the windows and doors and sills , they wouldn't have red showing through them.

[PRR Modeler]

I also like the third one.

[Oldguy]

I do plan on painting all the trim; it's on today's schedule.  It was amazing just how sloppy I was using the sponge.  And thanks for the feedback.

[Oldguy]

Well snerts.
One of the nice things on having extra wall sections is being able to test paint techniques.  So, 00000 or 000 for the trim?  Okay, 00000 it is time to start on the actual building.  Note to self:  Clean up your desk.  Too late.     A flying elbow sent it to the concrete and turned back into kit form.  On the other hand, it made it a lot easier to paint all the wood trim that would have been a real pain if it had been together.  A couple of quick strokes of a PBL brass scratch brush (from their weathering brush outfit) removed errant red paint and the white paint went on.  All I need to do is figure out weathering the white a bit.  In the photo below, I decided to use a couple of Silverton attic windows for the round windows.  Almost a straight drop in.
I really need to find a better adhesive for this resin as obviously, epoxy doesn't hold that well.

[Janbouli]

Looking much better. I use  CA for resin.

[Oldguy]

Looking much better. I use  CA for resin.

I used medium gel CA for the initial tack along all four corners, then the next day reinforced them using epoxy.  Still didn't hold.  I might try to find some JB Weld for glass to see if it would be better.  Or I could just be more careful.

[deemery]

I've used epoxy for resin kits with great success, I wonder if your epoxy is old or maybe you got a bad mix. 

One trick I've used is similar to OldGuy's:  Use something like Walthers Goo to position the walls, and when the Goo is set up, then apply CA to lock the joint.  I've done that on resin cars, but not on resin structures.  I've also used wood (1/4") bracing at the corners on old Magnuson resin kits, in part to make sure they don't re-warp.  That was secured using epoxy.

dave

[Oldguy]

When I was planning on building this kit, I wanted to replace the windows.  Well, really how these were built.  Basically, glue on the clear acetate to the inside walls, then add the wood mullions.  I got several Rusty Stumps industrial window sheets.  If my maths were correct, should be easy-peasy.  I was half right.  But the more I looked at Rusty Stump windows, the mor I didn't want to cut them up for this project.  S, back to following the kit instructions.  First, I had to remove the interior paint.  An end of a metal ruler worked fairly well, but the PBL scratcher got rid of any paint remnants.  A little Weld Bond and weights got the job done.

[Oldguy]

As I mentioned before, I decided to use Grant Line Silverton Depot attic windows for the round windows.  First step was to get out the dividers and find the radius of the opening for the acetate.  I wasn't worried about poking a hole in in the clear material as it would be hidden by the mullions.  I found that rotating the acetate was the easiest method getting my circle.  After a few turns, I had enough of an mark to cut out the window using small curved scissors.  To get th small round bit into the window, I used a small sucker that worked okay.  Squeeze the barrel, place the cup over the part and move quickly.  As long as one keeps it sucking, it'll hold; otherwise the part falls off.  I found a small sculpting tool to apply the adhesive.

[Oldguy]

As previously mentioned, I painted the doors and windows white, following the prototype practice.  The loading white was way too stark and I couldn't find a decent way to tone them down.  Since the dray side won't be seen. I did give some experimental material to work with.  I don't have a lot of paint options, so what to do, what to do.  Then the mail lady delivered a package and inside were my first batch of Pan Pastels.  Hmmm . . .   Played around with some, but then decided to heck with it and went with a dark oxide red.  Looks like stained wood.  So I redid all the doors and am calling it good.  For now.  I did play around with some light gray on a spare wall piece and found my new brick mortar color.  Rub it in and remove the surface material with a damp, not wet, flat brush and voila.  I'm sold.  Sorry no photo of this process.  Probably old hat for most on here, but, it's all new to me.