Glue for metal-to-metal

[Dave K.]

When assembling metal detail parts...which adhesive?

[vinceg]

I've used super glue with success. Takes a long time to set, tho - not like your fingers.

In the olden days when I build the FSM tannery, George recommended using epoxy to glue together the metal castings of the stone walls (going from memory...)

[Dave K.]

Two-part epoxy was my first thought...a pain to mix for just tiny dabs.

[vinceg]

I remember "Back in the Day" that someone used to make a two-part epoxy product that was a set of little plastic beads...almost like fish oil capsules. One color for the adhesive, one for the hardener. Was handy for small jobs as you had small amounts of pre-measured product you could mix for small jobs. Much handier than those two-cylinder syringes that I hate. Not sure if they're still around or not.

[Dave K.]

Interesting, Vince...those do sound pretty convenient.👍🏻

[bparrish]

Mostly I use super glue and a kicker to keep moving on.  Also depending on what you are gluing, a choice of thin or gap filling might be helpful.


I have never liked two part epoxy because five minute epoxy is not ! ! !!    Plus I have too much waste after making up a small batch.

Contact cement (G00) also works.

See ya
Bob

[Dave K.]

Thanks, Bob!

[Raymo]

Dave, I use ACC, but sand or scrape the metal clean at the joint. I also use 5 minute epoxy for a stronger joint. George Barrett uses talcum powder soaked with super glue for metal joints.

[Dave K.]

Thanks, Dan!

[Slim Jerkins]

When I glue the plastic lamp shades to the metal tubing when making gooseneck lights I use 15 minute epoxy. Since I make a bunch of lights at a time the 15 minute stuff has a decent pot-life. But it takes way more than 15 minutes for a solid, non-sticky cure.


I've also tacked stuff with super glue then reinforced with epoxy - where possible. For really fine stuff like gluing marker lights or handrail stanchions onto a loco I use super glue. Epoxy would be too clunky for that.


-slim 

[deemery]

A related idea is to use something like Walthers Goo, get the parts positioned, and then lock in place with CA.  I know people who build resin kits that way.


dave

[Dave K.]

Thanks, all.

[ReadingBob]

I use 5 minute epoxy for some things and CAA for others.  For CAA I  prefer the medium or gap filling kind over the super thin stuff though I have both on my workbench.  I'm not really sure that anything I do it really metal to metal though.  If it's castings I've probably already painted them so it's more paint to paint then it is metal to metal.    

[Lynnb]

I don't have much ecperience with metal to metal but when I had to the 5 min epoxy worked great, just had to make sure it was in the exact fianl position. Works great for water as well 

[Rail and Tie]

I have been using my new UV cure glue from Bondic for small metal parts.  it has a nice glue pen with a fin tip and UV LED built in for curing. I like it a lot better than CA as it does not stick to your fingers as you are trying to hold things together. Best part is the glue does not set until you hit it with the LED light.


As Raymo mentioned, I always rough up the gluing surfaces a bit for better hold and more surface area.