FOS Bandits Roost

[JimF]

Vince, welcome back to fun

I use the basic #11 blade for quite a bit of tasks, but for cutting the tiny connections between a part and the surrounding material, I use either a single edge razor blade or, a Xacto #17 chisel blade. If I use the #17, I place the bevel facing away from the actual part.

You will have to try different ways, before you find which you prefer. Just be careful cutting, the main thing.

Jim

[Dave K.]

Been religiously following and enjoying...just not posting much (you know the drill...posting issues). Really coming along great!

[Opa George]

Thanks very much, Dave. Very happy to have you looking in.

I have plenty of time later to finish the scenery & road details in front of the millworks, and decided I want to move on to the next structure in this kit, the enamel works. But to do that, I need to place the partially worked diorama on my layout. Below are two pictures of the permanent home for Bandits Roost, on the summit above the inlet. The Rust Rock Falls complex will be located on the other side of the summit.


At the moment it appears to be floating on air, resting as it is on some wood blocks. The actual diorama base is not yet fixed in place. I will need to bring it back to the workbench once the enamel works is ready to install, and for additional scenicking.

The structures on the inlet are from the Builders in Scale kits "The Wharf" and "The Waterfront." This image is taken from the level of the inlet, looking uphill at the summit.  Sorry for the glare of the camera flash.


Below are the main walls of the enamel works, laid out and ready to brace. These are the main structure walls, with the tower and loading dock addition.  The annex, the power house and the conveyer shed are not shown below. I'll work with those structures once the mill is substantially complete.


All for now.
--Opa George

[Opa George]

Yesterday I braced all the walls per the kit-supplied diagram, using extra bracing as needed.  As the frieze boards on the tower are to be finished in the same color as the walls, I glued them in place before bracing.  I allowed everything to dry overnight.

Prepping the walls for staining took quite a while. I am going for a relatively high degree of wear and tear, so I spent a good two hours in applying distressing marks. I used a ponce wheel for nail holes, then spent most of my time lifting boards with a razor knife. I finished with both a file card and a welder's brush for extra wood grain.

After distressing the walls, I applied Hunterline Blue Gray quite liberally and applied weight as they dried. Normally I would not use the blue-gray stain for a base coat, but as the wall colors will be a pale gray-blue, I thought it was appropriate.  At the bottom is some 1/16th stock, stained the same color, for use as corner trim.


Below are the same walls after sponge painting with a loose mix of craft acrylic "Arctic Blue" and "Pale Gray."  I know it looks somewhat like a pastel or baby blue in the pictures.  Weathering will tone that down as we go along.


Next up are the paper Enamel Works signs--one of the signature looks of this kit. They are to appear as if painted on, and as they are very long and require a good deal of patience and precision to get in place, I thought I would document my technique.  Prior to applying the signs, I sprayed the reverse of all walls with a good coat of Rustoleum flat black or dark gray primer and let dry.


I laid each sign face down on newspaper and brushed it liberally with water. I immediately brushed on white glue, covering it completely and working it into the water to coat every bit of the back side of the sign. Using tweezers, I carefully positioned the sign at the top of each wall. The water/glue coat is pretty forgiving and allows a minute or two of work time.

One satisfied with the position, and making very sure it lined up well along the horizontal clapboards, being very straight and true, I began to blot it down with a dry work rag.  It is important to start by GENTLY dabbing and blotting. Do not rub or scrub. You will see the impression of the clapboards underneath begin to show through.  Check your alignment at this point--it is still possible to make minor positioning adjustments if needed.


Continue blotting along the entire length of the sign. Go back along and blot harder, pushing down firmly against the surface. Again, do not move the rag horizontally along the sign, as it is still wet and fragile and may tear. Stop when the clapboards beneath are fairly distinct and the sign no longer looks "wet."

Start at the top of either corner and begin pulling the tip of a toothpick along the underside of each clapboard.  Do not apply much pressure, only enough so that you can begin to see the clapboard edge become more distinct. I even twirl the toothpick as I pull it along to avoid catching and tearing the paper.  Blot up any glue that oozes out from the sides or ends.


After multiple passes with the toothpick, the clapboards beneath the sign will become quite distinct. Using the same painting sponge with which I painted the walls, I very gently and lightly dabbed over the sign in the equivalent of a dry-brushing.  Below are the results so far.  It is still slightly wet, but once it dries thoroughly, I will lightly sand over the entire sign to represent more wear at the clapboard edges.


Next major bit is installation of the windows.

--Opa George

[Opa George]

Time to install some windows, and there are a lot of them.

For this part, I am only working with the plastic Tichy windows supplied. There will also be laser cut doors and windows, but I'll work with those next session.

I spray-paint primed the gray plastic windows with Rustoleum Camo Sand for a base "wood" color. Typically I sponge paint the plastic cast windows with my desired color, but decided to try something different with these.  To simulate a faded, peeling paint, I very lightly oversprayed all of the primed windows with Rustoleum flat white. I held the can further away and used as light a coat as I could manage. I like the result. On really close inspection, the completed window assemblies still look as if they have faded, peeling paint.


I like wood glue to attach the plastic windows to the wood wall. Once all were installed, I cut out acetate and applied it to the inside of all windows with liquid plastic cement. It was a little tedious considering the large number of windows--and laser cut acetate was not included for the plastic windows--but in the end it looks good. 


Next up: adding window shades, more signs on the walls, and the white trim.

--Opa George

[PRR Modeler]

Great modeling and color George.

[deemery]

I've been using Deluxe Materials "Super 'Phatic" glue for styrene to wood.  This is the same basic kind of glue as wood glue (PVA), only a lot stronger.  Deluxe has been at Springfield the last 2 years, so I've had a chance to talk to them about their product line.   You can get this stuff at Amazon:  https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-Super-Phatic-DLMAD21/dp/B0047YMZBC  Strongly recommended!


dave

[Opa George]

Thanks for the kinds words, Curt, and thanks for the tip on the specialty glue, Dave. I'm always looking for good glues and can see where that may come in handy for certain troublesome joints.  I'll give it a try.

--Opa George

[sdrees]

The walls turned out just great George as did your signs

[Mark Dalrymple]

Looking good, George.

I would love to see a close up of a window showing the result of the new painting technique you used - if possible.

Cheers, Mark.

[Opa George]

Thanks, Steve and Mark.  Here is a close-up of a section of one wall.
--Opa George

[Oldguy]

Good looking build.  The sign is really good.

[jerryrbeach]

George,

Looks great!  Thanks for posting the techniques you used to get this far.

[ACL1504]

George,

The windows turned out great, I'll try that technique one day. Love the walls and sign as well.

Tom

[Jerry]

One hell of a nice looking wall, sign & windows!!


Jerry