Campbell Scale Models Richmond Barrel Mfg Co

[Opa George]

Nice progress, Bob.

Fascinating.  You must have some different stud/rafter spacings to deal with.   And three widths? Wow.

When installing corrugated iron as a cladding or a roof,  they are not fixed to either the rafter or the stud, but instead the purlins on the roof (running at right angles and on top of the rafters) and the dwangs or nogs on the walls (the horizontal fixing).  For this reason the width of the sheets of iron has no bearing on the fixing.  Horizontal fixings are typically 800mm (31 1/2") and the purlin spacing is typically 900mm (35 1/2").  At least that is the typical spacing here in NZ.  There is always a ridge purlin and a gutter purlin, along with hip and valley purlins as needed.  The purlins are typically 3x2's and two 8x1's are run down the valley between the two valley purlins.  There will always be exceptions and different designs.  If you search purlins under images you'll get the gist of what I mean.

Cheers, Mark.

Bob, a good start. This will be interesting to follow.
Mark, thanks for the info on the corrugated siding. I've never worked with the stuff so that is all new to me.  Good to know the details of prototype construction that is behind our kits.
George

[Oldguy]

What I found to be helpful on these older Campbell kits is organizing all the included wood bits.  In this case I used a plastic box for the cut siding, other smaller boxes to hold smaller pieces, etc.  Longer pieces of wood go into plastic sleeves and get labeled as to part number.
I'll admit it.  The lack of a foundation just got to me.  So I broke out the last of my Holgate & Reynolds concrete block sheets.   I cut off two strips, 6 blocks high and it looked good.  Then looking at the dock supports and stringer, it looks real good.  This meant that I also need to add some to the annex.  Here it only needed 2 block high s0rtips, but it also required adding back an equal amount of cardboard to the lower portions.   All of this had to be done prior to adding the stiffeners.

[Oldguy]

While the glue was drying on the stiffeners, I wanted to build something, so I decided on the sliding doors.  The door material was given an AI bath earlier so that was already taken care of.  The instructions have the builder, cut out the door frames from a piece of heavy paper, glue them onto the wood and trim as necessary.  I'm not so sure.  But I need to build at least most of this kit as provided.  So I cut out the interior bits, and then cut out the three overlays.
Then for coloration, I used weathering powders weathered brown and dark rail brown.  It looks better in person.

I have been waiting for a shipment of canopy glue.  The instructions call for Wilhold 560 glue for the metal siding. Obviously it isn't made any more, but apparently has morphed into canopy glue 560.  I did some test pieces with Elmer's (no workie), TiteBond (better but no workie), and Flamingo Glue (no workie).  I have enough transfer tape, but I need an adhesive that has some amount of work time.  I'll find out tomorrow how well the canopy glue works.

[bandman]

Weathering looks good, Bob.  Whose weathering powders are those?  I haven't seen any powders in containers like that.

[Oldguy]

Weathering looks good, Bob.  Whose weathering powders are those?  I haven't seen any powders in containers like that.

They are Bragdon's powders.  I just put them in containers that I found at Target. 

[PRR Modeler]

Everything looks great Bob.

[Janbouli]

Weathering looks good, Bob.  Whose weathering powders are those?  I haven't seen any powders in containers like that.

They are Bragdon's powders.  I just put them in containers that I found at Target.

They look like the containers from Panpastel

[Opa George]

Those weathered doors look like much more expensive castings or laser-cut. Nice job!
--George

[BandOGuy]

Rather than burn up a lot storage space attaching a previous quote here, Someone had used up all of their Holgate & Reynolds brick material for foundations.
One of my modeling pet peeves is buildings unrealistically sitting on the ground. With that in mind, I asked Jeff Grove Saturday about duplicating the foundation material we used to be able to get from Jimmy Simmons. Jeff took me to the booth for KC's Workshop. If I wasn't cold wiped out, I'd go get the owners name. I asked about foundation material: he had it in stone, block and brick. He was even kind enough to churn out two sheets of aged brick for me after the show was over Saturday night.
Link:https://kcworkshop.com/

[Oldguy]

Weathering looks good, Bob.  Whose weathering powders are those?  I haven't seen any powders in containers like that.

They are Bragdon's powders.  I just put them in containers that I found at Target.

They look like the containers from Panpastel

That they do, but are bigger around.

Here is what I found online - https://widgetsupply.com/product/sde3-87446bb.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiufEprnF5QIVip6zCh08PAikEAQYCiABEgK2ofD_BwE  and https://www.amazon.com/Paylak-CNTB111-6-Storage-Stackable-Containers/dp/B00TGDARSW/ref=pd_sbs_469_t_0/136-3133142-4391310?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00TGDARSW&pd_rd_r=79230dad-f2f9-429c-8b3f-1b8965aee9b5&pd_rd_w=usmFA&pd_rd_wg=xwu7n&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=T26R1DF1J5Z1SP888G50&psc=1&refRID=T26R1DF1J5Z1SP888G50

[postalkarl]

Hey Old Guy:

Looks like you are off to a good start. Built lots of Campbell Kits many years ago. God only knows where they all are now. I will be following along. I still have a few on my shelf.

Karl

[Oldguy]

This prep work is slow going.  I've cut 475 pieces of corrugated siding!  I'll be curious to know if I have enough cut.
The sliding wood doors did come out better than I expected.  It was a matter of gluing the cardboard cutout to te wood backing and then trim the wood as needed.  Once everything has been cut and squared, it was a matter of trimming their spots on the walls to ensure a decent fit.  The brick chimney came in 4 pieces.  It was a matter of using the provided square length of wood, and gluing it all together.  It was a lot easier that I had expected.  The stair stringers are molded white plastic, so I used some roof brown as a base coat.
I found that using a set of dividers, set to the recommended 26" spacing to mark the metal siding.  The resultant holes pretty much disappear when painted.
Speaking of paint.  I am using a couple of shades of gray (not 50 of them) to paint all 475 of them buggers.  No doubt it would have been quicker to have added paint while they were still sheets.    The instructions have one gluing them to the sides first, then paint.  Probably a better idea, but I wanted to see what effect of using different paint on panels would look like.  My intent is to use the gray as a base coat, then gluing them on, spray with a matte varnish, then add a white wash using a sponge.

[ACL1504]

Bob,

Nice start for sure. Like Karl, I've built my share and still have a few under the layout.

Looking forward to the build.

Tom

[Oldguy]

Well nerts, got this:
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So how come I can post this but not a post with photos?  Maybe I just answered my own question.

[Oldguy]

It was extremely tedious to paint all the corrugated siding prior to installation.   I used an old drafting board to spread out the pieces for drying.

The instructions have a template for cutting the acetate for the windows and doors.  I'm not sure exactly how all this was to have worked out since the windows get installed after the siding has been added.  There would have been so much extra material I don't how they could have been added.  It was not a big deal to cut the acetate to size. 

At this point, I drew vertical lines for the siding on all wall and roof cards.  I find this helps me keeping the verticality of the panels.