Campbell Scale Models Richmond Barrel Mfg Co

[Oldguy]

This build, for me, is going to be different.  I'm going to build as shown with materials provided.  Although it will be a feed and seed warehouse/store. 

First up is all the included Bag A wood being stained.  Looks like I need to add a bit more alcohol to tone it down a bit.  Then there are all the plastic bits in bag B. 

The instructions are typical for Campbell consisting of detailed figures, and blow ups.  And yes, this kit has been in my stash for decades.  One thing that I did do, was to go over the illustrations and write down material sizes.  It should make finding them easier.  I also put all the small pieces in easy to get to containers.  All separated out by size.

There is a bunch of different sized bracing material that I separated out and bagged for easier reference

[Oldguy]

Since this structure is covered in corrugated metal, the siding backing material is cardboard (gasp).  But, I will use it; this time.  I did scan in the 4 template cards as a backup. 

I need to ensure that all my cuts were parallel and perpendicular.  So I loaded a brand new #11 blade and went to town cutting all the pieces out.  And then double checking on width of walls that will need to be aligned later.
Then came cutting out all the doors and windows,  I used my trusty triangles to ensure everything remained as even as I could.  I should mention that they give the builder several variations of the building.  And I went with option 3 that required the main long walls to be switched so that the printed lines wound up on the inside.

Then came the need to cutting the corrugated siding.  I tried to make up a cutting jig, but the material was just too thin.  I found that it was easier and quicker just to draw a cutting line on the cutting mat and cut each piece directly.  A low angled light and an Opti-visor work fairly well, but I might wind up a bit crossed eyed.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Looking good, Bob.

Can't remember the last time I saw a Campbell kit build thread.

I always score and snap the corrugated iron.  I use painters tape on my cutting mat and mark the 3 foot width with a pencil on the tape.  One line cut fairly softly down the indentation freehand, then wiggle back and forth a couple of times and it snaps off.  I find the ribs keep the knife in a straight line so I don't use a ruler.  I have a technique for creating the look of lead headed nails.  It is very time consuming and really does make you go cross eyed (I go by feel more than sight), but I think it adds a lot to the finished product.

Looking forward to your continued progress.

Cheers, Mark.

[jerryrbeach]

Bob,

I've looked at purchasing this kit a few times but never pulled the trigger.  I'll be following along to see your build tips and techniques.  It will help me decide if I should actually break down and add this kit to my "must have" list.   

[ReadingBob]

Like Mark said I can't recall seeing a build thread on a Campbell kit in quite some time.  It'll be fun to see (and recall) some of the challenges these present.  I still have a few in the stash though I've gotten rid of some as well.  Looks like you're off to a fine start.

[Oldguy]

Looking good, Bob.

Can't remember the last time I saw a Campbell kit build thread.

I always score and snap the corrugated iron.  I use painters tape on my cutting mat and mark the 3 foot width with a pencil on the tape.  One line cut fairly softly down the indentation freehand, then wiggle back and forth a couple of times and it snaps off.  I find the ribs keep the knife in a straight line so I don't use a ruler.  I have a technique for creating the look of lead headed nails.  It is very time consuming and really does make you go cross eyed (I go by feel more than sight), but I think it adds a lot to the finished product.

Looking forward to your continued progress.

Cheers, Mark.

Hmmm, score and snap?  Might be a lot quicker than making several light passes.  I 'll give 'er a shot.  Around here, the panels are 26" wide with 2" overlap.  Te Campbell instructions use the same.

[deemery]

Campbell instructions are always excellent!  They're the best kits to get someone interested in craftsman structures, even though the 'technology' (die cutting rather than laser cutting) is a bit dated by now.


dave

[jimmillho]

I have built my share of Campbell Kits and I will be following to see where I went wrong.

Jim

[Mark Dalrymple]

Around here, the panels are 26" wide with 2" overlap.  Te Campbell instructions use the same.

Bob - I got my information from a book called 'wrinkly tin'.  The standards in New Zealand had three different sizes 30", 33" and 39".  Interestingly all three sizes are larger than your 26" standard.  I figure with my lap mine look close enough to 33" widths - I don't think anyone will get out a ruler to check.  Having said that I know one or two people who just might!

Cheers, Mark.

[Oldguy]

Around here, the panels are 26" wide with 2" overlap.  Te Campbell instructions use the same.

Bob - I got my information from a book called 'wrinkly tin'.  The standards in New Zealand had three different sizes 30", 33" and 39".  Interestingly all three sizes are larger than your 26" standard.  I figure with my lap mine look close enough to 33" widths - I don't think anyone will get out a ruler to check.  Having said that I know one or two people who just might!

Cheers, Mark.

Fascinating.  You must have some different stud/rafter spacings to deal with.   And three widths? Wow.

[Oldguy]

So I spent the afternoon mainly cutting tin siding.  I now have 312 10x2 (m/l) pieces.  Maybe I should have dull coated the sheets first??  The instructions have one install the cut panels and then paint and weather them. 

Ever so often, I needed a break and added the bracing, 3/32x3/32 sticks.  What I almost missed (well, I actually did miss) the fact that you needed to transfer the exterior dashed lines to the inside of the card.  This located the lower interior bracing position and also forms the floor support.  I found a piece of scrap plastic that was the same height as the floor, so I used it to accurately position the lower bracing.
The long wall bracing must be kept short of the ends by 1/8" on each end.  So, I used some 1/8" stock to located the stop position.
Sometimes being a pack rat pays off.  I saved my ancient Tandy leather punch to punch out the hole for the annex smoke stack.
The one thing that gnaws at the back of my brain is the lack of a foundation.  The interior floor is raised, so I can't imagine the wood walls extending all the way down to ground level.  I might deviate a bit and add some hollow concrete block sheet for the lower portion of the walls.  And looking ahead, one is to add the siding all the way to the ground.  Then add the platform wall supports over this metal siding.  Not entirely prototypical. 

[BandOGuy]

In the Craftsman Corner at Timonium, there is a dealer (don't recall his name) who has a large selection of George Selios's kits, SRM, and several other high end manufacturers. At the right hand end of his table, he has a fair selection of Campbell kits. I have a few in my old stash at home. Interesting to find they are or have become "craftsman" level kits.

[PRR Modeler]

Bob, it looks like you're doing  a great job.

[Jerry]

Bob looks good so far.


Jerry

[Mark Dalrymple]

Nice progress, Bob.

Fascinating.  You must have some different stud/rafter spacings to deal with.   And three widths? Wow.

When installing corrugated iron as a cladding or a roof,  they are not fixed to either the rafter or the stud, but instead the purlins on the roof (running at right angles and on top of the rafters) and the dwangs or nogs on the walls (the horizontal fixing).  For this reason the width of the sheets of iron has no bearing on the fixing.  Horizontal fixings are typically 800mm (31 1/2") and the purlin spacing is typically 900mm (35 1/2").  At least that is the typical spacing here in NZ.  There is always a ridge purlin and a gutter purlin, along with hip and valley purlins as needed.  The purlins are typically 3x2's and two 8x1's are run down the valley between the two valley purlins.  There will always be exceptions and different designs.  If you search purlins under images you'll get the gist of what I mean.

Cheers, Mark.