2020 Build Challenge - A Stock Pen for Cimarron

[Larry.h]

A stock pen for Cimarron
As the structures for my Cimarron module set near completion, the stock pen is next on the list. I am scratch bashing it based on a combination of the standard D&RGW drawings for a stock pen and the kit from Crystal River Products. In addition, the Library of Congress has a series of photos taken at Cimarron of the sheep loading process. https://www.loc.gov/photos/?q=fat+lambs+cimarron

I bought the kit years ago, and the wood has dried out, making it quite fragile and brittle. Since the stock pen will be on a module that will travel to train shows, I want it to be more sturdy. So, I'll be building it with strip wood rather than laser cut bass wood.

[Larry.h]

After building the platform seen if the first post, I built the ramp framework and the ramps. The side walls for the upper ramp was built of individual boards separated by 1x2 styrene strips. The lower ramp had additional spacing for the upper boards. The styrene spaces the boards evenly and will not stick to the wood glue.

Installing the side walls required some sort of clamping method. I stole a small piece of cushion foam from my wife's sewing stash and used it to hold the walls in place while the glue set.

The kit base is made of cardboard. I wanted something stronger that I could move like a diorama, so I built a replacement out of 1/4" Masonite and painted it with camo tan so it wouldn't warp when I do the scenery.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Looking good, Larry.

I like the 2" x 1" to stop the cattle slipping.  A nice delicate touch.

Cheers, Mark.

[GPdemayo]

Great start Larry.....I'll be looking in. 

[S&S RR]

Larry


Looking great! It's all about those little details.

[Larry.h]

Mark, Gregory and John, Thanks for the comments and for following along. I'm trying to make the details work for the model.

[Larry.h]

More progress today. I installed the lower ramp walls using the same technique I used on the upper ramp. I also built and installed the upper ramp gate and the drop floor that is used when loading the upper level of the stock car. In addition I built and installed the upper ramp outside walkway. Sure doesn't seem like much, but it took the better part of an afternoon.

[PRR Modeler]

Very nice modeling.

[Opa George]

Larry, this is looking very good. Your detail work and the time you are putting in is evident. I enjoy seeing the craftsmanship in nicely modeled intricate wood structures.
--Opa George

[Janbouli]

Looking great , not something for the impatient.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Looks terrific, Larry. 

Its fiddly work, but the time it is taking you is paying off.

Cheers, Mark.

[Larry.h]

Thanks for looking in guys. It is a bit fiddly, but the results will be worth the effort.

[Raymo]

More progress today. I installed the lower ramp walls using the same technique I used on the upper ramp. I also built and installed the upper ramp gate and the drop floor that is used when loading the upper level of the stock car. In addition I built and installed the upper ramp outside walkway. Sure doesn't seem like much, but it took the better part of an afternoon.

Looks like you've got one ready to take the train..

[Larry.h]

After  a couple of days of helping other club members with their modeling projects, I found some time to get back to the stockpen. I built a fixture to fabricate the stairs on and then built the stairs. I used Northeastern stair stringers and 1x10 strip wood for the steps. I then built the loading bridges for both the upper and lower ramps. Next came the extension gates. These took a while as I wanted the extension to work. With that the ramps were finally complete.

When I inventoried my stripwood for the fences, I found I was severely short. Fortunately one of the club members had some on his work bench and was willing to part with it. To build the fence posts, I wanted ones similar to the originals at Cimarron. They used local cedar trunks to build the fence posts as there are many cedar trees in the area. I started with some .100 dowels that I had. To make them more rustic, I used a sanding drum in my cordless Dremel to rough them up. I then used a stiff wire brush to create the cracks in the wood. To remove all the fuzzys, I used a green scotchbrite pad. I then colored them with a PM-110 30% grey prismacolor marker. After cutting them to length, I colored the ends with a PM-201 driftwood prismacolor marker. I inserted the posts into the base to insure that my count was correct.

To build the fence, I simply used 2x6 strip wood and weathered them with a variety of wire brushes and the back of my hobby knife. I glued the bottom fence rail to the two end posts and let the glue set. Then I glued the posts into the base, followed by the fence rails.

More coloring stripwood tomorrow. Three packages of 2x6, a package of 2x8,  and half a pack of 2x10 for the fence. The gates will require almost a full package of 3x6 stripwood.

[Opa George]

Larry, continued fantastic work. The wood coloring is well done. Looks excellent.
--Opa George