First Craftsman Kit Build - J. Keen Supplies

[WigWag Workshop]

Hey Der Folks,


I added the Windows, Doors. and Signs, next up I will be adding a few more signs and (the part I am dreading most) doing the weathering.  When it comes to weathering, I understand less is more, and to work in multiple layers.


-Steven

[PRR Modeler]

Very nice.

[ReadingBob]

When it comes to weathering, I understand less is more, and to work in multiple layers.

It sounds like you're ahead of the game Steven!  That comment is spot on.    The walls look great.

[Opa George]

That is looking very good, Steven. 
Don't fear the weathering, but do respect it.  I've made mistakes and still do (plenty of them) but there are ways to mitigate and disguise it.  I don't think I've ever ruined a building with it.
--Opa George

[WigWag Workshop]

Hey Der Folks!


Well, I started on the weathering, can't say I am completely happy with the results.  Please understand that this is my first attempt, and I knew I would not get the best results.  The key thing is, I am learning a lot, and I am having FUN!! I been taking notes on what is working, and what is not working.  I do plan on continuing with some subtle layers, and try fixing some of the details I am not happy with.  Next up, I will be adding the window and door "glass", assemble the walls. and add the roof.


-Steven

[PRR Modeler]

It looks good Steve.

[ACL1504]

Steve,

Nice job on the weathering for the first time you've tried it.

Is it just me, or did Jimmy D. cut the walls upside down.

Tom

[ReadingBob]

The key thing is, I am learning a lot, and I am having FUN!!

You have this down pat now Steven.     That's the number one rule.  And if it's not, it should be. 

Great job for a first time attempt.  It's very easy to overdo weathering on a white, or lighter colored structure, and you did a great job avoiding that trap.   

[jerryrbeach]

Steven,


That is so much better than my first attempt.  It certainly would pass as a building in or on the fringe of an industrial area.  Maybe I should have said this sooner, but I find using weathering powders shown in your earlier photo to be much more difficult than using simple chalks.  The chalks don't adhere as well, thus make it easier to be more subtle.  I use the powders for "special effects', like rusting a stove pipe or similar.  I use more chalks for general weathering because I find the result easier to control.  That said, I often use the structure color over the weathering to soften anything I think is too much.  If that is why you are not completely satisfied, I suggest using some white to tone down the weathering.  Dullcoat also "softens" the look, and can be used for both that, sealing the powders in place,  and to add "tooth" to make additional weathering adhere better.  HTH.

[WigWag Workshop]

Steven,


That is so much better than my first attempt.  It certainly would pass as a building in or on the fringe of an industrial area.  Maybe I should have said this sooner, but I find using weathering powders shown in your earlier photo to be much more difficult than using simple chalks.  The chalks don't adhere as well, thus make it easier to be more subtle.  I use the powders for "special effects', like rusting a stove pipe or similar.  I use more chalks for general weathering because I find the result easier to control.  That said, I often use the structure color over the weathering to soften anything I think is too much.  If that is why you are not completely satisfied, I suggest using some white to tone down the weathering.  Dullcoat also "softens" the look, and can be used for both that, sealing the powders in place,  and to add "tooth" to make additional weathering adhere better.  HTH.

Hi Jerry, thank you for the tips on using chalks, I am going to order some for my next build. These weathering powders have a "built in" adhesive, and once they are on, it's difficult to remove.  Any particular brand of chalks you like to use?  I heard Rembrandt are pretty good, but I am wondering if the ones from Hobby Lobby would work.


-Steven

[jerryrbeach]

Steven,


I have an inexpensive set of just general colors that I bought many years ago.  IIRC I paid less than $10 at either Walmart or one of the craft stores.  I have a smaller set of earth tones my friend Jim gave me, similar sets are available at the craft stores.  I do have a few Rembrandt chalk sticks.  I bought mine from Dick Blick.  I use the cheap chalks for almost everything.  The Rembrandt colors are mostly wood tones not available in the cheap sets.  Brett Gallant (Sierra West) has a recommended list for basic colors and I purchased a few from that list.  The Rembrandt chalks are definitely nicer to work with but do require a pretty significant investment if you want a full pallet of colors.   


I work over a manila folder, scraping the chalk from the sticks using an Xacto blade pulled sideways across the stick.  When I am done I push any unused chalk toward the center of the folder, close it and stick it on a shelf.  The unused chalks tend toward browns, tans, and grays.  I find the leftovers work well to give my vehicles a nice dusty dirt road look.  And, the cleanup is really easy. 


I use makeup brushes to apply my chalks.  My friend Jim gave me a set that had various sizes.  Some are fairly soft, others somewhat stiff.  I use the smaller stiffer ones for streaks, the larger softer for blending.  Prior to his gift I used some paint brushes but I find these work better for me.  Again, HTH 

[deemery]

For applying chalks or pigments (or Pan Pastels) over a wide surface, try wedge shaped make-up sponges.  That's what I use most of the time.


dave

[Opa George]

Steven,
Good weathering effects.  You may be surprised how natural they start to look to your eye once you start to "zip up" the kit.

On chalks, I am still using a set I purchased in the 1970s or very early 1980s (!) for very little money, from a craft store.  They are large sticks that last forever.  Below is a pic, and you can see how worn and ratty the original box is.  The variety assortment has a few colors too bright for weathering, but the earth tones, the grays and blacks, are good for structures and the blues/greens are good for rockwork, so I use three-quarters of them.



Note, I call them chalks, because they have that appearance to me and they produce a very fine chalk-like powder, but a trained artist may be able to identify them as a different medium. Either way, they work well.

--Opa George

[WigWag Workshop]

Hey Der Folks!


I assembled the building, and started on the roof. Unfortunately, I made a mistake on the rolled roofing and had to re-do it, so now I don't have enough for the overhang and attached structure.  It's OK though, has I planned on using a different material for them.  NOTE: I didn't attach the side structure yet, has I have to install the foundation first. Next up, I am going to work on the roofing, and install the overhang.


-Steven

[postalkarl]

Hey Wig Wag:

Its just paper. Use 81/2" X 11 white paper cut new roofing and paint it. Building looks great.

Karl