FSM #145 Coal Tower

[Opa George]

This is coming along wonderfully (and quickly) George.

You made me look.  I do have this in my stash.  If I ever get around to it I'll certainly try to remember to refer back to your thread for tips/tricks/ideas.   

Thank you, Bob.  I am also benefitting from tips from John, who completed this a few months ago.  This forum does have a rich stash of good advice.
--Opa George

[Opa George]

Looking great George - and you are moving fast on this.

Thanks, John.  It does go quickly even though it looks complicated.  The pre-cut pieces save a lot of time.  You commented a few days ago on the amount of time that George must have spent in putting each kit together--and I agree.  I haven't found any missing pieces, mis-cut pieces or other problems.  The full scale plans are printed to exact size.  Just an excellent kit all around.
--Opa George

[Opa George]

Last evening I built up another framework of the posts that help support the bunker floors. These are the ones that rest on a bottom wall plate on the middle concrete base.

As the bunker floor beams (bearers?) were previously glued flush to the joists of the angled floor, the upper ends of the support posts must be notched to rest securely in place.  This required the tiniest of trim work at one end, as below:


Each beam aligns with a bunker floor joist. The notching actually makes it quite easy to position the top of the post.  I started with the post that aligns with the inner hoist tower wall to get a proper starting point in aligning the bottom of the post on the wall bottom plate.  That gave me a reference point for determining where to position the bottom of the next post on the plate.

Below, all posts are in place. It looks as if one more is required at the left in the middle of the hoist tower wall, but plans do not call for a sixth post in that position and in fact George allows for longer sway bracing between the two posts that are wider apart.  I mention this because I was going to absent-mindedly glue one in place there, but that would have left me short by one post. 

I positioned the right-hand end post before the post next to it, knowing the end post should be flush against the peaked wall. Once that was in place, I could position the remaining post, visually dividing the distance between the third (middle) and fifth (end) posts where it joins the plate.


The sway bracing between posts is pre-cut to length and goes on quickly.  In the photo below, I have started to position the first support for the worker's platform.  George does not specify an exact height for the platform, so I estimated it from laying the structure against the full size plans.  I could have also measured but didn't!


Below is the completed worker's platform, and also a good view of the sway bracing in place.  Note that the middle concrete base lacks weathering at this point and looks nice and clean compared to it's neighbors.


Another view of this completed interior support wall.  I did not yet put on NBW castings, as I wanted to give it all a good chance to dry.

--Opa George

[PaulS]

So very nice George.  You are doing a wonderful job on this classic.
Every step just brings out more of the character in this coal tower !!
Keep up the great work and all the best,
--Paul

[ACL1504]

George,

Great looking build. I built this one some 40+ years ago and really enjoyed the process.

Tom

[Opa George]

Thank you, Paul, and thank you, Tom.  Paul, it is a classic, and Tom, it also holds up very well for enjoyment of construction in this age of laser-cut everything. Today I started the very top floor of the structure and it fit together perfectly.

Rain has cut into my gardening time today, so here's a bit more work on this kit.  I installed the hoist floor, which cleared me to add on the last of the walls. 


The windows were installed and glazed with the included acetate, and I added corner posts to the peaked ends. The dormer wall on the hoist tower fits between the corner posts that were left extended from the lower wall. In fact that was the first wall I installed. When the glue dried, I tipped the structure over to trim the corner posts to match the roof angle.  After that, I began installing the rest of the walls.


The rest is just a box.  Below it is glued and clamped.  When installing the two long walls, make sure you install them with the windows at the end opposite the hoist tower.  If you reverse them, one of the windows will be hidden behind the tower.  I don't yet have the last wall installed: which is the last hoist tower wall still lying on the cutting board.  Once the "box" is set, I will trim that last piece to fit and install.


--Opa George

[Mark Dalrymple]

Looking terrific, George!

And the rain is good for the garden and modeling!

Cheers, Mark.

[postalkarl]

Hey George:

It's getting there. Looks just great.

Karl

[WigWag Workshop]

Coming along nicely, I am getting a ton of inspiration. 

[PRR Modeler]

Beautiful modeling George.

[GPdemayo]

Moving right along George.....

[Opa George]

Thanks for the supportive comments, everyone.

Moving right along to the roof, I cut out the various roofs from the heavy cardstock. Here I varied from the instructions in that George has you gluing the cardstock to the structure and then applying the roll shingles, whereas I prefer to shingle the roofs first, then glue in place.  Different roofing materials may dictate a different response--for instance if I had decided to use corrugated metal panels, I would have indeed glued the cardstock in place first.

So my technique was to apply water with a small paintbrush to the roll shingles and apply them to the cardstock roof. When completely covered, I flipped it over and trimmed the sides as needed, then used rattle can Rustoleum Camouflage Khaki as a primer coat, with a light overspray of Rustoleum light gray primer.  Later, I will weather with streaks of browns and grays, lift some shingles, then dry brush the entire thing with white to bring out highlights.

But for now, here is the structure with roofs installed and a start on rafter ends:






As a note, the roll shingles--I think they are Campbell roll shingles--were in excellent condition and the mucilage in good shape.  So I did not need additional glue.  Nice surprise in an older kit.  I really like using the roll shingles and can get good results with a little work.

--Opa George

[jerryrbeach]

George,


Just getting caught up on this thread.  As usual, beautiful modeling!

[Opa George]

Thanks for checking in, Jerry, and for the nice comment.

It's been a few days since I have had workbench time, but managed to squeeze in a bit last evening.  I cut and applied the rafter ends all around, then built and installed the three work platforms that surround the building on three sides.  The platform construction was very straightforward:  just build it over the full size template, let dry, then remove and install.

My biggest concern was to get the platforms installed at the correct height. George says study the drawing and install, but it is not as easy as it appears.  I measured the drawing with a scale ruler and used those measurements for the installation.  I think I got them at the right height.  I think it looks ok.

Here is a pic of one side. :


Here is the other side/third platform:


Next up will be finishing the roof (ridge caps and painting).
--Opa George

[PRR Modeler]

Looks awesome George. Do the platforms have railings yet to be installed?