Bar Mills Cundy Village Hotel

[ReadingBob]

Wonderful.  Nice recovery for the shingle shortage too.   

[Jim Donovan]

As I put the singles on the walls I would test fit the wall to the bracing. Doing so put most of the needed curve into the wall. When the sides were all shingled I airbrushed and dry brushed them using the same method described for the tower. Even using a hairdryer the thin wood siding got fairly moist and as such molded to the needed curve on the bracing very well.

For whatever reason I did not take pictures of the painting but here is a photo of the final shingle look with the structure further along and a photo showing the finished curve of a wall after painting and test fitting.



This photo does show the side walls glued to the bracing. With all the test fitting while moist the sidings simply snuggled into place and I used tape to make sure they stayed in place while drying.

You will also note that to complete the corners I used 14 gauge wire. I stripped the coating off so copper showed, cut and formed to fit and glued in place. When I airbrushed the top of building I came back and weathered the copper wire as well.

[GPdemayo]

Great progress Jim.....is the hotel taking reservations for the grand opening? 

[Jim Donovan]

The final part of the roofing is above the dorner sides and frankly is a lot of fun. In the instructions they have you put in place the pre-cut cardboard, glue roof battens in the places scribed and when time just paint. Instead I went with a copper roof look, however by this time I had given up on attempting to get copper to oxidize to the dark brown look with some green. It just does not look right, being done in 1:1 world it looks 1:1 in size. So airbrushing was the choice I went with. (I went back and cleaned up the copper I had oxidized on the tower as well since it kept getting greener!).

First I found at Hobby Lobby thin 12 x 12 copper foil on a backing used in the Cameo printers in the craft paper area. I had the printer cut out the needed shapes. I then put the 3M 465 tape on each cardboard roof piece. The copper foil was then carefully attached to the roof. You could do this just as easy by rough cutting the foil to the roof shape and trimming away excess after foil had been attached to roof using the tape. A printer is not needed. I had already painted the roof battens Ceramcoat Charcoal Gray so I simply glued them in place using Canopy glue. The foil is so thin that the scribe lines can be seen as creases in the foil.







In the above photo you can see where gutters are needed for where the copper meets in the troughs. In a later picture you will see them. I made them from the pressed edges of brown paper bags (G Demayo's tip)and had the width of each side of the crease set to 9 HO scale inches. I cut each to shape, painted them the charcoal gray and glued in place. Another was placed as flashing up against the tower back wall.

[jrmueller]

Jim-You are making great progress with some interesting innovations. My hotel is sitting on the workbench waiting for me to finish. Jim

[Jim Donovan]

With all copper in place it was time to weather it. I taped off the model preparing it for airbrushing. To minimize the chance of splattering I used only paint sold as made for airbrushes. I set the Iwata Neo airbrush to 22 pounds to allow for smooth flow.



First color up was Vallejo Dark Rust #71.042. All paint strokes are made from top down, starting in the air off the model (in case of a splatter coming out) then evenly down. Then repeat. Next up Vallejo Dark Rust (panzer aces) #302. Here I started off the model but at the bottom and worked my way part way up, stopping randomly. Further, I sprayed each batten, top to bottom. Next, I used Ranger Patina for all metal Jade. Lightly spray from top to bottom near the battens to give the roof a slight age look. Finally, Ranger for all Metal Onyx. I VERY SPARINGLY sprayed along the roof bottom edge and near battens. I went heaver (perhaps too heavy) near tower as this area would collect water.

I was going to suggest a way to create the effect but I am really not sure.


Note: Gutters in place as well as flashing against tower





So we will call it a day at this point. Dormer window post next update.

[PRR Modeler]

Awesome patina on the roof.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Looking terrific, Jim!

Cheers, Mark.

[Janbouli]

  Love the roofing.

[Opa George]

Absolutely masterful work!  I love it.
--Opa George

[Jim Donovan]

Thanks to everyone who has stopped by and commented. I am enjoying the kit immensely.

Bob, it turned out well with the single change even though the back has no dormer windows so it would have been the easiest to cover with the felt singles provided.

Jim Mueller - Hope your getting some ideas and will be bringing that hotel of yours to life soon. I getting ready to put the dormers in and I remember your caution.

Greg - I will make sure you get an invitation for opening night!

There is so much you can do if you choose. I did go back in my narrative and say putting the interior in the third floor did not come out the way I hoped. The dormer walls really cut down the ability to see inside so it is not worth the time to do. Lighting the floor hopefully will show when complete.

[Jim Donovan]

Dormer time. Jim Mueller put a caution in my ear and the video I watched also seemed to show issues getting the domers on right. The directions are straight forward but don't mention any warnings so I appreciated the heads up.

The directions have you put the walls, sill and then roof on the walls, piece by piece. The front is put together and then installed on the dormer walls. If things don't match up you are to sand the front of the domer walls to get things square. I looked over the parts and diagrams to see the pitfalls. The first one is the curve of the walls must be correct and smooth otherwise the walls of the dormer don't match up. The second is there are so many small parts to the front that rely on two-sided tape to glue to each other.

I decided to modify the steps. First I built up the dormer fronts. For the dormer front I painted the parts the same as I did on the tower windows. The only change made was to use glass in place of the acetate. I had to use Clover Glass. It is the only type I have been able to find that allows me to cut the glass with a curve.

[Jim Donovan]

I made sure all the ash was removed from all dormer wall parts. I then glued the dormer walls face down on to the back of the dormer fronts so that I could make sure everything remained perpendicular. There are two parts provided that are shaped as wood inserts for the domer which hold the walls in the correct alignment while the glue dries. I am not really sure if that is what they are for but that is how I used them.





The dormer walls fit almost perfect in each case, by not having the roof on I could get my finger or tweezers inside to move things around a bit and make sure all was square.



The above photo shows the next step of installing the roof but it also shows how the dormer looked when glued to the wall with no roof.

The walls were then glued in the wall slot as a unit. At this point the roof was left off. I again used the two wood domer inserts to make sure the walls were straight. I let all dry before moving on.

[PRR Modeler]

They look great.

[Jim Donovan]

To cover the roof I used the same copper film as the roof. I like this material and plan to go back and fix the tower domers with the same material. Again I used the Cameo 3 print/ cutter but these could be trimmed after attaching. I used canopy glue to have it adhere to the laser cut wood. There is enough bend to the material so it  bends into shape when placed on the dormer with no problem.





The above photo just shows how it all looks from inside out, the roof is not attached at this point.